"King of the Road" 2-month online course: moto-control.shop/subscription/ BEGINNER rider video course: moto-control.shop/product/moto-control-beginner-rider-video-course/ ADVANCED rider video course ("Training Routine"): moto-control.shop/product/training-routine-video-course-ebook/
Andrei, you are knowledgeable, likeable, and have an excellent approach to teaching others. You do not need to use profane language or base terms for emphasis. It undermines your professionalism and credibility.
When are you planning to launch the "King of the Road" course? I'm eager to join, but being in Northern Europe I can start in Mid April earliest (May more realistically).
@@chris2790"Ay em ewerej American. Ay vyurk 11 hours day in hemberger mine to buy one Rock 'n' Roll CD" - supposedly an excerpt from an FBI interview in the late '80s woth a real KGB spy. Or so the internet would have us believe 🤔
I think this is a topic missing for a lot of new riders -- shoot, it's missing for a lot of riders in general, and most people end up learning how to sort out the difference only through experience and seeing whose advice actually works.
One bad advice I got from a few ppl in my riding grp is that you should hold the handlebar tightly at high speeds for more control and to avoid wobbles. Having watched ur videos, I told them that's complete bs and provided the required explanation. Then they looked down on me and gave the usual " I have been riding for 15 yrs and know from experience. Kids these days get influenced by random youtubers." Those dudes had ridden a 125cc Hero Honda bike(the most selling bikes in India) for 15 yrs and think they have mastered all riding skills. I have bought a 350cc bike(Honda cb350) as my first bike and have been riding for a year now. Trust me, 300-500cc bikes are considered as premium(or middleweight) class in India. My riding grp largely comprises of cb350 owners. So yeah, in a way ppl in my grp consider themselves as pro riders bcz they own a 350cc bike, which will be beginner bike in any other part of the world..
God gave you knees to hold onto the bike, at any speed. That's why he gave engineers the wisdom to put nice comfortable grips on the tanks, back in the "olden days", and in more recent times, sculptured tank designs to aid gripping with your knees. The handlebars aren't some sort of grab rail, either. You don't hold onto them for dear life, you manipulate the controls on them with your hands/fingers and you manipulate the bars themselves to initiate turns. You will most certainly find that your bike handles much better if you practice this. It's easier said than done, though. As a returning rider, I find myself falling into the trap of "hangin' on" at higher speeds. Self appraisal and self correction are a must. Enjoy your bike. 350cc is more than enough for most riders around the globe if they're honest with themselves.
Motocontrol …. Should be the president of Russia 🇷🇺!!! I should know .. I’m a member of motocontrolen …. Not even Vladimir Putin has the power to stop my Andre from creating competent riders
Question: It seems to me that countersteering occurs at all speeds. I don’t see a reason for physics to abruptly change at 15 mph. However, a lot of instructors teach that you direct steer at lower speeds.
It doesn't. And it's really not at all complicated. The physics are EXACTLY the same as body roll in a car. Except this time the body roll is intentional. The difference speed makes is in the dynamics of what follows. When you're going fast, a little bit of motion causes a lot of lean, and there's a very strong restoring force trying to steer the front wheel into the turn (which would right the bike, if permitted). The small amount of motion required, together with the strength of that force, mean that you don't need to think about or do anything other than apply force to the bars. Often times the motion is entirely imperceptible. At low speeds, that's all still present, but the magnitudes are different. Now it takes a lot of steering motion (but very little force) to initiate lean, and the restoring force is very small, due to the low speed. In practical terms that means you have to manually catch it (like drifting in a car), i.e. steer into the turn yourself, else the bike will keep leaning until it falls over. The transition is not sudden, it's gradual. The speed at which you need to start making the conscious effort to catch the lean will be affected mostly by the strength of the death grip you have on the bars, but to a lesser extent also by the rake angle and drag in the bearings (and from cables/hoses/etc). 15mph is not a bad number to give to a n00b for this, as I'd expect a strong grip that will fight the dynamics at lower speeds, but that's nevertheless bad advice. The correct advice is to have the lightest grip possible while still in control of the bike. For my bike and present skill level, 10mph is easily achievable, but at around 5-6 I need to actively manage the front wheel due to the amount of steering required vs the drag and inertia of the steering assembly. The transition occurs somewhere between those speeds. At first I made a conscious effort to use countersteering to keep the bike balanced at low speeds, but now it's become muscle memory. Carrying a passenger also makes a difference, especially if that person isn't a good sack of potatoes. Every time they shift their weight it's on you to correct by countersteering accordingly, though again - this becomes self-correcting for me by about 10-15 mph. Just to be clear, you will *always* initiate and control lean through countersteering. The only things that change with speed will be the forces, amount of steering required and strength of self-correction.
@@233kosta Thank you for your well structured explanation. In it I see the answer to another question (myth) I have. You said when you steer into the turn the bike wants to correct itself (I presume stand up and steer out of the turn) which meets counter steering works at lean as well. I have heard people say once leaned you are direct steering.
@@ciaravino20757 If you think about it, your centre of mass sits on top of a contact point, which is the directional control point in this case. If you shift that point to the left (by steering left), the top half will have to go right. That's because of inertia (Newton's 1st). Inertia causes the sum of all forces and moments on a body to effectively act through its centre of mass, unless said body is otherwise restrained. That's what makes it so difficult to fly a space ship, by the way. A bike is restrained in a few ways - ground contact generally means no vertical motion through the pavement, only motion that follows it (excluding suspension dynamics for simplicity). Longitudinally, there are two contact points (front and rear wheel), which under most circumstances will direct forward motion exactly as one would expect (throttle = go, brake = no go). Laterally however, there is effectively only one point of contact, as the wheels move in line. This means rotation about the roll axis is completely free, whereas it is restrained about the other two axes (tyre friction prevents free rotation about the yaw axis, two tyres, front and rear, instead of just one, prevent free rotation about the pitch axis). An unrestrained roll axis means that any lateral force applied away from the centre of mass will cause the bike to roll. We'd call that a rolling moment. That's what's happening when you countersteer - you pull the bottom in one direction, so the top *must* go in the other. There's nothing silly going on. No smoke & mirrors. No gyroscopic trickery (though that does have an observable effect at higher speeds, albeit inconsequential to the method of riding). No weird physics things that magically switch on and off at different speeds. Best of all, you can go test it yourself. All you need is a bike. It doesn't even need an engine. To clarify a couple points: 1. Technically, once you're in a turn, you kind of _do_ direct steer, insofar as the front wheel has to face into the turn to make the bike go around it. But the aforementioned dynamics will do that for you at speed. When going slowly, that's the part where you have to manually "catch" the lean before you fall over. 2. The "correct itself" part is nothing more than the front wheel effectively making itself direct steer, after the fact. So you're leaning already, and the fact that you're leaning causes the front wheel to want to (and in most cases - succeed to) steer itself into the turn. This is a direct consequence of the rake angle of your forks. It provides directional stability at speed, but also requires more force to tip the bike in. More rake = more stable, but also requiring more effort to turn at speed. Less rake = more agile and easy to tip in, but also requires you to be more delicate at speed. In other words, depending on front end geometry and tyre profile, your bike is literally trying to countersteer itself upright. Well... in some circumstances. If there isn't enough rake and the tyres are very V-shaped, then a bit of countersteering starts the bike tipping over, and you must actively countersteer to stop it. Whereas if there's a lot of rake angle and the tyres are flat (i.e. more car-shaped, or worn flat from going mostly straight over long distances), then you have to actively countersteer to maintain lean, otherwise the bike will stand itself right back up. The happy medium in the middle (moderate rake, perfectly round tyre profile) results in a bike that takes little effort to tip in, and stays leaning until you countersteer to roll it upright. Usually manufactirers will tend to err on the side of stable, so with round tyres, most bikes will require just a little force on the bars in order to stay in the turn, and self-right slowly if you let go of the bars. Tip-in remains fairly easy too, though the bike is noticeably less eager to go on her side. This is to minimise risk to riders who are not equipped to handle the unstable scenario. So, you see, it's possible that people have experienced a lot of scenarios where what they say makes perfect sense to them (i.e. you direct steer under 15mph, or when leaned, etc.) within the frame of reference of their own observations, without necessarily contradicting the physics, but most explanations given tend to be very lacking. What doesn't help at all is human perception. For instance, our brains commit countersteering to muscle memory as soon as we learn to ride our first bicycle, but none of us bother to think about or recognise it until we're on a machine that benefits from making a conscious effort to do it. And now that you know more about the physics involved, and what to look for, you can try it all yourself to verify.
An instructor who rides a bike with ABS despite being against ABS usage may have disabled the ABS and bought the bike for reasons that have nothing to do with modern electronics.
Thanks for sharing this advice, comrade Andrei. 😝 In all seriousness, it's "coded" with safety tips that other instructors who are paying attention to the "key words" can implement for their own students to help them understand how good systems and principles will keep them safer on the road. 😊
Comrad, whether you’re KGB or not, as long as you don’t invade any nearby countries in your spare time, we love your entertaining and informative presentations. Thank you. Tomorrow FINLAND!! 😂
6:02 I'm an off road motorcycle instructor for kids, and I agree, an explanation for everything is worth a 100x more than just telling them what to do, as most of them can figure out when to utilise the explained technique and figure out how it helps them, HOWEVER, sometimes a complicated, in depth, physics explanation is not conducive to teaching people the basics and simplified, or analogous examples/explanations are required, like the back brake stability rope one.
9 หลายเดือนก่อน +3
Master, maximum respect for all the work and effort! Professional and extremely easy to understand. There is not a single useless word in your videos. No doubt you are the best coach as well. Can’t wait to the course. Do you have any info about when it will start?
Taking lessons at quality, well-established riding schools with provide a pretty good sense what is BS. The other surefire way is "stop talking, just show me".
I learnt to ride an analog bike and I ride an k5 gsxr 1000, it's an analog bike with no fancy electronics like abs or traction control and I prefer bikes like that.
YOU ARE TELLING THE TRUTH ,REALITY ,THE EXPERIENCE YOU DEVELOPED IN YEARS OF PERSISTENT PRATICE..THATS WHY I LERNT AST BECAUSE ITS FACTS NOT FIXION..IMAGINATION..LOVE YOUANDREY AND TRUST YOU AS DEEPLY I BELIEVE IN MY OWN THANK YOU FOR BEING TEHBEST FRIEND,THE GREAT EXPERT AND A KIND HUMAN BEING WHO IS GENEROUS,HUMOUROUS AND VETY EFFECTICE AS A TEACHER VICTORY TO YOU BODROV SIR
I remember one of the instructors I had years ago, kept telling everyone to go faster, the thing though was he was even telling even the fast ones to go faster even though we were plenty fast to pass the tests. The head instructor had to get after him a bit, though to be fair we had a couple of riders who were definitely not fast enough (and neither of them passed the final exam) and were having difficulty overcoming their fear.
Are you living in Argentina? So you speak spanish! Haces cursos más al sur de Buenos Aires? Soy de Chile, pero me gustaría ir a un curso tuyo algún día.
Just lean it! Just lean it and go faster!-MOTOJITSU is telling you to do so…😂😂😂. Yeah, don’t really like the guy… Anyway, good stuff man… love your channel!💪
When I was little they told me: Front brake on asphalt and rear brake on gravel. After decades of motorcycling experience I would say: Always use both brakes if you know how to use them well, otherwise continue to follow the child's advice so that you don't make mistakes
Just saw that I didnt comment this video yet! Perfect advice. this is the only channel I can recommend to 100%. With many other channels there were some details where I just can't agree with. E.g. the advice "loud pipes save lives" is still undebatable for some riders ... Well this one I won't test myself xD
the problem with countersteering is the TERM is incorrect, counter steering is what you do when a car is in a slide... it is also called Opposite lock! and what instructors tell you to do is turn the wrong way so you fall over! when they should start by talking about the way Rally cars use the Scandanavian flick to turn the car one way so it turns back the other way faster, and use the rotation to induce a slide which then uses forward thrust to push them around the corner rather than use Lateral grip (of which there is very little compared to the self sweeping effect of a spinning tyre digging down to the solid base!) and then say that a slight turn the wrong way makes the bike lean faster so you can turn sooner & more accurately! but the way it is described is to lean one way, turn the other, and end up sliding down the road with a 200kg bike on top of your leg! and speaking as a car mechanic now, are you aware that the rear brakes start working before the front when you push on the pedal?? it does slow the rear of the vehicle and help to maintain a straight line (unless you lock the rear up then it has the opposite effect) but the amount of brake required to help keep the vehicle in a straight line is dependent on many things, & over doing it will have bad consequences unless those consequences are expected, intended and needed for some reason! plus you have already said about using the rear brake for U turns, and stunters use it for wheelies. so saying it doesn't help with stability.. well maybe not to someone with limited experience, to someone who knows how it is the favoured method of stabilising everything including high speed steering wobble! And now for the Pussy argument! while a Moped is limited to 45km/h and that is dangerous because car drivers want to go faster and literally push Mopeds off the road (by personal experience, and taking out the speed restrictor helped to no end) fast enough is better than too fast. but frame size and ergonomics are probably more important if you want to be safe. I tried out 3 very different bikes, a Gixxer 250, a V-Strom 250SX & an SV650. the Gixxer250 was too small, my knees got trapped under the wings on the fuel tank and made foot movements difficult, despite it feeling like playing on a BMX, that puts the small bike way out of the question, even if the price was well under budget! The V-Strom 250SX, with the same engine still feels light, but more like a large mountain bike compared to the BMX... It's workable but will take longer to get used to at low speed! and then the wet dream... I mean the SV650. It looks so friggen awesome, it fits me perfectly and is by far the most comfortable of the 3. but it is more powerful and heavy... and to be honest, the fact it is the perfect size makes that extra weight so easy to control, It is easier to manoeuvre than the taller V-strom which weighs much less! which way do I go? do I go for what feels so right? or do I go for what is inside the budget, despite probably wanting to upgrade in 6 months time... It's a tough call, but If I stay off the SV650's in the mean time, I may get the V-Strom... nope, I have to increase the budget and get the bike that FEELS RIGHT! and that's what I would recommend to others!
We live in advice epidemic. Every other post is a ostensibly a guru, professional or advanced instructor. Bikes are pretty objective but just remember the internet doesn't know you or your life. What's good advice for someone isn't good advice for everyone
as for ABS I learned to drive a car without ABS, and not all of the driving I did was on paved roads, the most spirited driving on loose surfaces was in a controlled environment, and against the clock, and prizes were given for being the fastest! I am perfectly happy without ABS, and I have found ABS to be a hinderance when the road is not paved. it stops the tyre digging down to the solid base where there is traction, and massively increases stopping distance as well as grip when it is needed. but on a wet paved road, there are times when you can be really glad you have it! However, Here in New Zealand, if you want a NEW bike, you don't have a choice, ABS is mandatory on all NEW bikes sold for road use, NO ABS, NO registration! The only way around it is to Bypass the abs unit, but leave it installed, otherwise you will never be able to slide the back around, and stoppies will depend on you having the rear brake locked up so it doesn't play with the amount of brake you want at the front!
On some cruisers with long forks, you actually do "simply" turn the bars right to turn right, when at very low speed. The higher your rake angle number, the more the contact patch moves laterally when you turn the bars. So when you turn the bars to the right, the front contact patch moves to the left. And at very low speed say under 5-6, this outweighs the tendency of the bike to tip to the left. So the bike tips right. But for most modern bikes, you have to countersteer at most any speed, provided you are keeping the bike in constant throttle. Because people tend to close throttle when going really slow, that's where the bike destabilizes and you now you have to actively balance the bike. And to turn, you just have to stop keeping the bike in balance in that direction. That's another reason why some riders might think they don't need to countersteer at low speeds.
Most advice is just what someone else did/does. People try to think what they did was right. The only experience related advice that is useful is the "dont do what I did" kind.
I like my ABS, but im glad I learnt and rode for years without it, because I know how to brake safely without ABS. If you learn on a bike with ABS, chances are you'll lock up your tire at some point if you don't have it.
A good rule of thumb is ignore advice from people who have had multiple crashes or falls. Get a quality, professional instructor and take advice from them.
I hate ABS. It can even be dangerous and does not let you learn how bikes behave. Never owned a bike with it amd there is always the disable button. If you need ABS, drive a car.
if you were kgb, shouldn't you make videos with the government mandated Ural motorcycle? Dragging pegs on an Ural in a parking lot would be fun to watch though.
@@MotoControlEn That is why we at the CIA don't ride Harley Davidsons! I think you have been spying on us! We have a good collections of Urals, if you would like to borrow one. Personally, I preferred our old MZ's, but we upgraded to Urals in the late 80's for some strange reason. Burning 2 stroke and Napalm, there's just something so American about that smell.
The timing couldn't be better. I have many friends asking me if contents on YT or TT are legit. Your video is great example and a great pointer. Thank you.
As a motorcycle safety instructor working in the US, I am constantly working to improve my skills and knowledge so I can be the best teacher I can possibly be for my students. I was glad to watch this video and feel like I'm one of the good ones... or at least trying to be. Maybe Andrei can decide and give me his personal stamp of approval!
My dear Andrey, every now and then I MUST look into your LESSONS because I still am a passionate biker AND also interested in pedagogical precision a logical consequences. And after my experience of 50 years and about half a million kilometres on two wheels I really must confirm: YOUR way of teaching is VERY GOOD!!! There is only ONE REGRETTABLY thing that makes my hair stand on end after a while: >>>That HOT POTATO and a scratchy "H"!
I think I do, but I'm not sure if it works, I haven't actually sold one yet🙃 When you click on my channel there will be "store" tab. Shirts should be there!
Sometimes no advice is the worse advice. When I tried to get my licence a long time ago when I was an absolute beginner, the riding school instructors were shit, something I realised years later with some more knowledge and experience. Their "teaching method" was basically telling you you're doing it wrong, but never telling you why. If I've gotten a dollar for every time they just said "just do it again", Ibwould be a rich man. Now I understand that them not saying what you were doing wrong was their method becoming rich men. Less progress=more lessons=more money to them.
Great advice. I remember a much more experienced rider than me, pulled me aside and gave me some friendly advice. He said I followed you down the mountain and I noticed your brake light was on in all the corners. I advise you never to use your brakes in a corner. Do your slowing before the corner then don’t touch your brakes. I responded that I was trail braking with my front brake. His response: what is trail braking , been riding for thirty years, never heard of it. I never listened to him any more. And a point about counter steering doesn’t work at slow speeds. That’s BS. When coming to a stop, I can guarantee I will always fall on to m left leg, if just momentarily before I completely stop, I turn my bars slightly to the right. Counter steering in action at a near stop.
this is the only video I've ever seen where the guy shows his mistakes and dropped his bike. all the other videos doing parking lot drills are perfect demonstrations, I know they must drop their bike or blow out a cone sometimes, pushing the limits that hard... but they will never ever show that.
Many good points and one great advice, "Always ask why". And if still uncertain, ask why again. Ask why until you get the explanation you can understand or switch to instructor who can explain things in the way you understand.
i like watching all the youtube instructors but they all do it different and still get the same results. the two channels i like the best are this one and a channel called motor officer training.
@@MotoControlEn He sold Argentina out, destroyed its sovereignty and has change the law to appoint his sister! I hope you continue to do well and all of Argentina’s good people do better, come what may with Popov v2 at the helm.
On my vehicle (very powerful) you can select 3 control response modes....with the wire it would be impossible to do this, you would be forced to have a wired control with a very long stroke to manually recreate certain situations of use.
"King of the Road" 2-month online course: moto-control.shop/subscription/
BEGINNER rider video course: moto-control.shop/product/moto-control-beginner-rider-video-course/
ADVANCED rider video course ("Training Routine"): moto-control.shop/product/training-routine-video-course-ebook/
Andrei, you are knowledgeable, likeable, and have an excellent approach to teaching others. You do not need to use profane language or base terms for emphasis. It undermines your professionalism and credibility.
When are you planning to launch the "King of the Road" course? I'm eager to join, but being in Northern Europe I can start in Mid April earliest (May more realistically).
Knew it, I knew you were KGB 😂
Knowledge
Given to
Bikers
His accent is a dead giveaway.
@@chris2790"Ay em ewerej American. Ay vyurk 11 hours day in hemberger mine to buy one Rock 'n' Roll CD"
- supposedly an excerpt from an FBI interview in the late '80s woth a real KGB spy. Or so the internet would have us believe 🤔
Surprisingly, those hints are perfectly applicable outside of motorcycling world.
I think this is a topic missing for a lot of new riders -- shoot, it's missing for a lot of riders in general, and most people end up learning how to sort out the difference only through experience and seeing whose advice actually works.
One bad advice I got from a few ppl in my riding grp is that you should hold the handlebar tightly at high speeds for more control and to avoid wobbles. Having watched ur videos, I told them that's complete bs and provided the required explanation. Then they looked down on me and gave the usual " I have been riding for 15 yrs and know from experience. Kids these days get influenced by random youtubers." Those dudes had ridden a 125cc Hero Honda bike(the most selling bikes in India) for 15 yrs and think they have mastered all riding skills. I have bought a 350cc bike(Honda cb350) as my first bike and have been riding for a year now. Trust me, 300-500cc bikes are considered as premium(or middleweight) class in India. My riding grp largely comprises of cb350 owners. So yeah, in a way ppl in my grp consider themselves as pro riders bcz they own a 350cc bike, which will be beginner bike in any other part of the world..
Their experience may be correct for lighweight 150cc bikes. That doesn't make it correct for a GSXR750 or CBR1000.
God gave you knees to hold onto the bike, at any speed. That's why he gave engineers the wisdom to put nice comfortable grips on the tanks, back in the "olden days", and in more recent times, sculptured tank designs to aid gripping with your knees. The handlebars aren't some sort of grab rail, either. You don't hold onto them for dear life, you manipulate the controls on them with your hands/fingers and you manipulate the bars themselves to initiate turns.
You will most certainly find that your bike handles much better if you practice this. It's easier said than done, though. As a returning rider, I find myself falling into the trap of "hangin' on" at higher speeds. Self appraisal and self correction are a must.
Enjoy your bike. 350cc is more than enough for most riders around the globe if they're honest with themselves.
@@davidbrayshaw3529 Well said!!
@@adhishwartak4766 Thank you.
Motocontrol …. Should be the president of Russia 🇷🇺!!! I should know .. I’m a member of motocontrolen …. Not even Vladimir Putin has the power to stop my Andre from creating competent riders
I'm not sure about being a president, but I would try lead department of transportation 😂
@@MotoControlEn you’re very humble my Andre!!! But we all know Russia would be number one under your control … see what I did ? Motocontrol
Question: It seems to me that countersteering occurs at all speeds. I don’t see a reason for physics to abruptly change at 15 mph. However, a lot of instructors teach that you direct steer at lower speeds.
It doesn't. And it's really not at all complicated. The physics are EXACTLY the same as body roll in a car. Except this time the body roll is intentional.
The difference speed makes is in the dynamics of what follows. When you're going fast, a little bit of motion causes a lot of lean, and there's a very strong restoring force trying to steer the front wheel into the turn (which would right the bike, if permitted). The small amount of motion required, together with the strength of that force, mean that you don't need to think about or do anything other than apply force to the bars. Often times the motion is entirely imperceptible.
At low speeds, that's all still present, but the magnitudes are different. Now it takes a lot of steering motion (but very little force) to initiate lean, and the restoring force is very small, due to the low speed. In practical terms that means you have to manually catch it (like drifting in a car), i.e. steer into the turn yourself, else the bike will keep leaning until it falls over.
The transition is not sudden, it's gradual. The speed at which you need to start making the conscious effort to catch the lean will be affected mostly by the strength of the death grip you have on the bars, but to a lesser extent also by the rake angle and drag in the bearings (and from cables/hoses/etc). 15mph is not a bad number to give to a n00b for this, as I'd expect a strong grip that will fight the dynamics at lower speeds, but that's nevertheless bad advice. The correct advice is to have the lightest grip possible while still in control of the bike.
For my bike and present skill level, 10mph is easily achievable, but at around 5-6 I need to actively manage the front wheel due to the amount of steering required vs the drag and inertia of the steering assembly. The transition occurs somewhere between those speeds.
At first I made a conscious effort to use countersteering to keep the bike balanced at low speeds, but now it's become muscle memory. Carrying a passenger also makes a difference, especially if that person isn't a good sack of potatoes. Every time they shift their weight it's on you to correct by countersteering accordingly, though again - this becomes self-correcting for me by about 10-15 mph.
Just to be clear, you will *always* initiate and control lean through countersteering. The only things that change with speed will be the forces, amount of steering required and strength of self-correction.
@@233kosta Thank you for your well structured explanation. In it I see the answer to another question (myth) I have. You said when you steer into the turn the bike wants to correct itself (I presume stand up and steer out of the turn) which meets counter steering works at lean as well. I have heard people say once leaned you are direct steering.
@@ciaravino20757 If you think about it, your centre of mass sits on top of a contact point, which is the directional control point in this case. If you shift that point to the left (by steering left), the top half will have to go right. That's because of inertia (Newton's 1st). Inertia causes the sum of all forces and moments on a body to effectively act through its centre of mass, unless said body is otherwise restrained. That's what makes it so difficult to fly a space ship, by the way.
A bike is restrained in a few ways - ground contact generally means no vertical motion through the pavement, only motion that follows it (excluding suspension dynamics for simplicity). Longitudinally, there are two contact points (front and rear wheel), which under most circumstances will direct forward motion exactly as one would expect (throttle = go, brake = no go). Laterally however, there is effectively only one point of contact, as the wheels move in line. This means rotation about the roll axis is completely free, whereas it is restrained about the other two axes (tyre friction prevents free rotation about the yaw axis, two tyres, front and rear, instead of just one, prevent free rotation about the pitch axis).
An unrestrained roll axis means that any lateral force applied away from the centre of mass will cause the bike to roll. We'd call that a rolling moment. That's what's happening when you countersteer - you pull the bottom in one direction, so the top *must* go in the other.
There's nothing silly going on. No smoke & mirrors. No gyroscopic trickery (though that does have an observable effect at higher speeds, albeit inconsequential to the method of riding). No weird physics things that magically switch on and off at different speeds. Best of all, you can go test it yourself. All you need is a bike. It doesn't even need an engine.
To clarify a couple points:
1. Technically, once you're in a turn, you kind of _do_ direct steer, insofar as the front wheel has to face into the turn to make the bike go around it. But the aforementioned dynamics will do that for you at speed. When going slowly, that's the part where you have to manually "catch" the lean before you fall over.
2. The "correct itself" part is nothing more than the front wheel effectively making itself direct steer, after the fact. So you're leaning already, and the fact that you're leaning causes the front wheel to want to (and in most cases - succeed to) steer itself into the turn. This is a direct consequence of the rake angle of your forks. It provides directional stability at speed, but also requires more force to tip the bike in. More rake = more stable, but also requiring more effort to turn at speed. Less rake = more agile and easy to tip in, but also requires you to be more delicate at speed.
In other words, depending on front end geometry and tyre profile, your bike is literally trying to countersteer itself upright. Well... in some circumstances. If there isn't enough rake and the tyres are very V-shaped, then a bit of countersteering starts the bike tipping over, and you must actively countersteer to stop it. Whereas if there's a lot of rake angle and the tyres are flat (i.e. more car-shaped, or worn flat from going mostly straight over long distances), then you have to actively countersteer to maintain lean, otherwise the bike will stand itself right back up. The happy medium in the middle (moderate rake, perfectly round tyre profile) results in a bike that takes little effort to tip in, and stays leaning until you countersteer to roll it upright. Usually manufactirers will tend to err on the side of stable, so with round tyres, most bikes will require just a little force on the bars in order to stay in the turn, and self-right slowly if you let go of the bars. Tip-in remains fairly easy too, though the bike is noticeably less eager to go on her side. This is to minimise risk to riders who are not equipped to handle the unstable scenario.
So, you see, it's possible that people have experienced a lot of scenarios where what they say makes perfect sense to them (i.e. you direct steer under 15mph, or when leaned, etc.) within the frame of reference of their own observations, without necessarily contradicting the physics, but most explanations given tend to be very lacking. What doesn't help at all is human perception. For instance, our brains commit countersteering to muscle memory as soon as we learn to ride our first bicycle, but none of us bother to think about or recognise it until we're on a machine that benefits from making a conscious effort to do it. And now that you know more about the physics involved, and what to look for, you can try it all yourself to verify.
Sound advice, once again. Thank you, possible non-KGB-agent.
Perfect, ALWAYS! Thanks again for great ,helpful advice 👍
And THIS is why I support you and your channel.
Thank you😊
“Take my sneaky KGB word for it”
NEEDS to be on some merch!!!!
great video! a good explanation about the "pro guy" its the Dunning Kruger effect
An instructor who rides a bike with ABS despite being against ABS usage may have disabled the ABS and bought the bike for reasons that have nothing to do with modern electronics.
He sure may have!
Thanks for sharing this advice, comrade Andrei. 😝 In all seriousness, it's "coded" with safety tips that other instructors who are paying attention to the "key words" can implement for their own students to help them understand how good systems and principles will keep them safer on the road. 😊
>comrade
>not brother
NICE TRY, CIA
just got my high cc motorcycle license, best informative channel ever
Great videos! Honestly, you deserve a lot more than 100k subscribers
Comrad, whether you’re KGB or not, as long as you don’t invade any nearby countries in your spare time, we love your entertaining and informative presentations. Thank you.
Tomorrow FINLAND!! 😂
6:02 I'm an off road motorcycle instructor for kids, and I agree, an explanation for everything is worth a 100x more than just telling them what to do, as most of them can figure out when to utilise the explained technique and figure out how it helps them, HOWEVER, sometimes a complicated, in depth, physics explanation is not conducive to teaching people the basics and simplified, or analogous examples/explanations are required, like the back brake stability rope one.
Master, maximum respect for all the work and effort! Professional and extremely easy to understand. There is not a single useless word in your videos. No doubt you are the best coach as well. Can’t wait to the course. Do you have any info about when it will start?
Hi! I guess it will start towards the end of January
Cool! I will need some more winter gear I guess :)@@MotoControlEn
@ Maybe not, my exercises usually are sweaty enough, even without extra thermal layers😁 Full protection is very strongly recommended though
@@MotoControlEnsure master :)
Taking lessons at quality, well-established riding schools with provide a pretty good sense what is BS. The other surefire way is "stop talking, just show me".
Thank you. I truly enjoy your videos!
So, ignore Motojitsu then 🤣
100% agree, drop that clutch!
When will "King of the Road" start?? I am ready for it ))) 🤔🤔🤔
I think towards the end of January, when all celebrations are over🎉🌲
I learnt to ride an analog bike and I ride an k5 gsxr 1000, it's an analog bike with no fancy electronics like abs or traction control and I prefer bikes like that.
Great video, you deserve a lot more subscribers than the KGB allows you to have
YOU ARE TELLING THE TRUTH ,REALITY ,THE EXPERIENCE YOU DEVELOPED IN YEARS OF PERSISTENT PRATICE..THATS WHY I LERNT AST BECAUSE ITS FACTS NOT FIXION..IMAGINATION..LOVE YOUANDREY AND TRUST YOU AS DEEPLY I BELIEVE IN MY OWN THANK YOU FOR BEING TEHBEST FRIEND,THE GREAT EXPERT AND A KIND HUMAN BEING WHO IS GENEROUS,HUMOUROUS AND VETY EFFECTICE AS A TEACHER VICTORY TO YOU BODROV SIR
I remember one of the instructors I had years ago, kept telling everyone to go faster, the thing though was he was even telling even the fast ones to go faster even though we were plenty fast to pass the tests. The head instructor had to get after him a bit, though to be fair we had a couple of riders who were definitely not fast enough (and neither of them passed the final exam) and were having difficulty overcoming their fear.
There are 2 LARGE YT (American) channels which I think you are aiming at.
BOTH are mainly SELLING MERCH
You KNOW which ones right?
RZ- MJ
Are you living in Argentina? So you speak spanish! Haces cursos más al sur de Buenos Aires? Soy de Chile, pero me gustaría ir a un curso tuyo algún día.
Just lean it! Just lean it and go faster!-MOTOJITSU is telling you to do so…😂😂😂. Yeah, don’t really like the guy…
Anyway, good stuff man… love your channel!💪
Here is some dogmatic advice for the road: ALWAYS assume nobody sees you, NEVER assume anything you cannot see.
Your sneaky KGB voice is infectious. Your subversive strategy is clear, comrade!🤣
When I was little they told me:
Front brake on asphalt and rear brake on gravel.
After decades of motorcycling experience I would say:
Always use both brakes if you know how to use them well, otherwise continue to follow the child's advice so that you don't make mistakes
Being a "good" rider doesn't always make a good instructor. Different skills.
Just saw that I didnt comment this video yet!
Perfect advice. this is the only channel I can recommend to 100%. With many other channels there were some details where I just can't agree with. E.g. the advice "loud pipes save lives" is still undebatable for some riders ... Well this one I won't test myself xD
the problem with countersteering is the TERM is incorrect, counter steering is what you do when a car is in a slide... it is also called Opposite lock!
and what instructors tell you to do is turn the wrong way so you fall over! when they should start by talking about the way Rally cars use the Scandanavian flick to turn the car one way so it turns back the other way faster, and use the rotation to induce a slide which then uses forward thrust to push them around the corner rather than use Lateral grip (of which there is very little compared to the self sweeping effect of a spinning tyre digging down to the solid base!) and then say that a slight turn the wrong way makes the bike lean faster so you can turn sooner & more accurately! but the way it is described is to lean one way, turn the other, and end up sliding down the road with a 200kg bike on top of your leg!
and speaking as a car mechanic now, are you aware that the rear brakes start working before the front when you push on the pedal?? it does slow the rear of the vehicle and help to maintain a straight line (unless you lock the rear up then it has the opposite effect) but the amount of brake required to help keep the vehicle in a straight line is dependent on many things, & over doing it will have bad consequences unless those consequences are expected, intended and needed for some reason! plus you have already said about using the rear brake for U turns, and stunters use it for wheelies. so saying it doesn't help with stability.. well maybe not to someone with limited experience, to someone who knows how it is the favoured method of stabilising everything including high speed steering wobble!
And now for the Pussy argument! while a Moped is limited to 45km/h and that is dangerous because car drivers want to go faster and literally push Mopeds off the road (by personal experience, and taking out the speed restrictor helped to no end) fast enough is better than too fast. but frame size and ergonomics are probably more important if you want to be safe. I tried out 3 very different bikes, a Gixxer 250, a V-Strom 250SX & an SV650.
the Gixxer250 was too small, my knees got trapped under the wings on the fuel tank and made foot movements difficult, despite it feeling like playing on a BMX, that puts the small bike way out of the question, even if the price was well under budget!
The V-Strom 250SX, with the same engine still feels light, but more like a large mountain bike compared to the BMX... It's workable but will take longer to get used to at low speed!
and then the wet dream... I mean the SV650. It looks so friggen awesome, it fits me perfectly and is by far the most comfortable of the 3. but it is more powerful and heavy... and to be honest, the fact it is the perfect size makes that extra weight so easy to control, It is easier to manoeuvre than the taller V-strom which weighs much less!
which way do I go? do I go for what feels so right? or do I go for what is inside the budget, despite probably wanting to upgrade in 6 months time... It's a tough call, but If I stay off the SV650's in the mean time, I may get the V-Strom... nope, I have to increase the budget and get the bike that FEELS RIGHT! and that's what I would recommend to others!
We live in advice epidemic. Every other post is a ostensibly a guru, professional or advanced instructor. Bikes are pretty objective but just remember the internet doesn't know you or your life. What's good advice for someone isn't good advice for everyone
as for ABS I learned to drive a car without ABS, and not all of the driving I did was on paved roads, the most spirited driving on loose surfaces was in a controlled environment, and against the clock, and prizes were given for being the fastest! I am perfectly happy without ABS, and I have found ABS to be a hinderance when the road is not paved. it stops the tyre digging down to the solid base where there is traction, and massively increases stopping distance as well as grip when it is needed. but on a wet paved road, there are times when you can be really glad you have it!
However, Here in New Zealand, if you want a NEW bike, you don't have a choice, ABS is mandatory on all NEW bikes sold for road use, NO ABS, NO registration! The only way around it is to Bypass the abs unit, but leave it installed, otherwise you will never be able to slide the back around, and stoppies will depend on you having the rear brake locked up so it doesn't play with the amount of brake you want at the front!
On some cruisers with long forks, you actually do "simply" turn the bars right to turn right, when at very low speed. The higher your rake angle number, the more the contact patch moves laterally when you turn the bars.
So when you turn the bars to the right, the front contact patch moves to the left. And at very low speed say under 5-6, this outweighs the tendency of the bike to tip to the left. So the bike tips right.
But for most modern bikes, you have to countersteer at most any speed, provided you are keeping the bike in constant throttle. Because people tend to close throttle when going really slow, that's where the bike destabilizes and you now you have to actively balance the bike. And to turn, you just have to stop keeping the bike in balance in that direction. That's another reason why some riders might think they don't need to countersteer at low speeds.
Most advice is just what someone else did/does. People try to think what they did was right. The only experience related advice that is useful is the "dont do what I did" kind.
I like my ABS, but im glad I learnt and rode for years without it, because I know how to brake safely without ABS. If you learn on a bike with ABS, chances are you'll lock up your tire at some point if you don't have it.
What if im getting chased by a 20 feral dogs and have to ride the bike to get away? should i let the dogs eat me while i put on a helmet??
A good rule of thumb is ignore advice from people who have had multiple crashes or falls. Get a quality, professional instructor and take advice from them.
So, you are wanting asylum...? Hmmm, of course, just let us know, and do not wait too long! After all, the future is elusive. 😂
I hate ABS. It can even be dangerous and does not let you learn how bikes behave. Never owned a bike with it amd there is always the disable button. If you need ABS, drive a car.
Love the classic lead with your butt riding position in the thumbnail.
if you were kgb, shouldn't you make videos with the government mandated Ural motorcycle?
Dragging pegs on an Ural in a parking lot would be fun to watch though.
I'm under cover, Ural would be an obvious giveaway!
@@MotoControlEn That is why we at the CIA don't ride Harley Davidsons! I think you have been spying on us! We have a good collections of Urals, if you would like to borrow one. Personally, I preferred our old MZ's, but we upgraded to Urals in the late 80's for some strange reason. Burning 2 stroke and Napalm, there's just something so American about that smell.
Funny how sometimes I just play your videos because you just sound nice 😅.
Always and never... hmm some youtube channels came to mind
Is it just me or does it light anyone else's senses up when they see that yellow black and white block Kenny Roberts paint design on a tank?
The timing couldn't be better. I have many friends asking me if contents on YT or TT are legit. Your video is great example and a great pointer. Thank you.
Somebody told me I had to put premium fuel in my Honda grom yesterday 😅
Best advice an intermediate rider can give a beginner is. Do a comprehensive rider course.
Personally i dont see an issue with abs and traction control like the features are there to keep you alive why not take advantage of it
its a simple fact small close area and slow speeds better control from opersite weight for control of cornering
"Word salad"
I see he's familiar with Kamala Harris.🤣
lol I know a guy who rides with a car tire on the rear, crazy bastard.
As a motorcycle safety instructor working in the US, I am constantly working to improve my skills and knowledge so I can be the best teacher I can possibly be for my students. I was glad to watch this video and feel like I'm one of the good ones... or at least trying to be. Maybe Andrei can decide and give me his personal stamp of approval!
That’s not riding advice, that’s life advice.
You know a good instructor when you see one👌😎😎🔥🔥
Newbie from Philippines pa shout out sir
It's super cool that you are a KGB agent.
My dear Andrey,
every now and then I MUST look into your LESSONS because I still am a passionate biker
AND also interested in pedagogical precision a logical consequences.
And after my experience of 50 years and about half a million kilometres on two wheels I really must confirm:
YOUR way of teaching is VERY GOOD!!!
There is only ONE REGRETTABLY thing that makes my hair stand on end after a while:
>>>That HOT POTATO and a scratchy "H"!
r
Are you a recruiter for the KGB?
No! I explicitly told you I'm NOT from KGB, comrade!
Do you sell Moto Control shirts?
I think I do, but I'm not sure if it works, I haven't actually sold one yet🙃 When you click on my channel there will be "store" tab. Shirts should be there!
I think that he talks about the a honda no abs and electronics
Comrade Vladimir would be proud of you. 😂
Sometimes no advice is the worse advice. When I tried to get my licence a long time ago when I was an absolute beginner, the riding school instructors were shit, something I realised years later with some more knowledge and experience. Their "teaching method" was basically telling you you're doing it wrong, but never telling you why. If I've gotten a dollar for every time they just said "just do it again", Ibwould be a rich man. Now I understand that them not saying what you were doing wrong was their method becoming rich men. Less progress=more lessons=more money to them.
Trained by KGB since a child.😮
Great advice. I remember a much more experienced rider than me, pulled me aside and gave me some friendly advice.
He said I followed you down the mountain and I noticed your brake light was on in all the corners. I advise you never to use your brakes in a corner. Do your slowing before the corner then don’t touch your brakes.
I responded that I was trail braking with my front brake.
His response: what is trail braking , been riding for thirty years, never heard of it.
I never listened to him any more.
And a point about counter steering doesn’t work at slow speeds. That’s BS.
When coming to a stop, I can guarantee I will always fall on to m left leg, if just momentarily before I completely stop, I turn my bars slightly to the right.
Counter steering in action at a near stop.
A Russian doing more Russian accent.
this is the only video I've ever seen where the guy shows his mistakes and dropped his bike. all the other videos doing parking lot drills are perfect demonstrations, I know they must drop their bike or blow out a cone sometimes, pushing the limits that hard... but they will never ever show that.
Many good points and one great advice, "Always ask why". And if still uncertain, ask why again. Ask why until you get the explanation you can understand or switch to instructor who can explain things in the way you understand.
Excellent. Give people a system to apply critical thinking. 👍
Of course you're no KGB, it was dissolved in 1991, but you could be FSB 👀
Yes you do provide complete explanation and argumentation. Jut keep it that way (until you get job in KGB) agent :)
But what about the advice about the advice 🤔 who knows how far this conspiracy goes
Yo dawg🐶, we put advice on your advice so you can get advice while you are getting advice😁
A great explanation of how to judge the qualifications of an instructor. Much appreciated...comrade. 👍
Thank you. Excellent content.
Wish every one a brilliant new safe year of riding.
Teşekürler 🙏🧿🇹🇷🏍
LOL you made my day with your "snaky KGB word " ... good job brother
Follow your gut fell on advices, works for me when I started riding.
You are a fantastic instructor.
Great video, as always! 👍👍👍
You have a few nice suggestions here.
'Thank you' from a Beginner.
Such an underrated video and channel
You are a sarcastic & funny man...I agree with a lot you say & explain.
i like watching all the youtube instructors but they all do it different and still get the same results. the two channels i like the best are this one and a channel called motor officer training.
That's what a KGB agent would say! I don't buy it! 🇷🇺😂😂
Andrei simply spot on.
This KGB guy is awesome 😄
As an ex mosad myself listen to this guy, good advices.
You are the best TH-cam instructorial channel by a country mile. Pity you moved to Argentina who’ve now picked up a clown as a president.
Elections were looking like classic South Park episode, that's for sure. There is still some room for cautious optimism though, we'll see how it goes🧐
@@MotoControlEn He sold Argentina out, destroyed its sovereignty and has change the law to appoint his sister! I hope you continue to do well and all of Argentina’s good people do better, come what may with Popov v2 at the helm.
I'll take ABS & TC, but I cannot stand electronic throttles. Keep yer rider modes and give me a good cable throttle, please and thank you 😊
On my vehicle (very powerful) you can select 3 control response modes....with the wire it would be impossible to do this, you would be forced to have a wired control with a very long stroke to manually recreate certain situations of use.
@@micromymario23 I'd rather be able to feel the raw behaviour of the engine. The precision will come from me either way.
Practice makes perfect.
Thank you buddy. 🙏🙏
I’m pricing a flight and coming for some lessons 🤓
대단히 감사합니다.ㅎ