@@MotoControlEn i am new rider. I just followed your excercise to better control my breaks. A kid suddenly run into my bike when I was moving at 50 km/h and I have 20 meters to react. Luckily, i used progressive front breaking skill you taught, I and the kid are both alive. I did not touch the kid. Thank you sir
16:20 Anticipation. So much YES on this, and not only for Bikes. My Dad always taught me to consider everyone around me an idiot and anticipate the dumbest thing they can do, and how I would react in said scenario. Saved my life and car many times on the road.
I'm so grateful for this video. I will watch over and over, practise a lot daily. I'm 3 days old rider. Honestly, I get scared when riding but I really want to ride and come home very safe.
This is great advice guys. That cement F'kin hurts, TAKE YOUR TIME GETTING THE FEEL. No need to rush. There are fast riders and old riders. But there are no fast old riders.
I am looking to get a motorcycle and your chanel has taught me more then any other. I will be sharing your channel. You are by far the best instructer ive seen on youtube. Very detailed and great visual explanations. Thank you
I have done advanced courses and I'd recommend that people just stick to one channel for their information as its information overload otherwise . This is by far the best imo, I've watched a lot!
Hi Andrey, I am back after repair of my 23yo 1150 GS: 1. STARTER, 2.OILEYE, 3. HALL-Sensor! Now that I fixed everything I can make us smile again, while adoring your lessons: About 5min55 you give the advice to count to TEN! BUT as I watched some drivers (in my 50years Biker career) there are quite a lot who are supposed hardly being able to count to THREEEEE!!! So when they reach "10" the ambulance is on the way already! Druzhba Robin
Man, Andrei; this is phenomenal information - thank you! You have a real gift for teaching, and you're able to do it both succinctly and with detailed explanation, while simultaneously keeping it compelling. As others said, this is worth watching again and again. That's what I did with your U-Turn videos, and this will also prove useful of many views accompanied by practice. Question about the distances you mentioned (25mph = 18ft, 37mph = 34ft, 50mph = 68ft)...is there a source for these distances? I don't doubt you at all; rather, I've found so much conflicting information on the subject and am looking for differences up to 70mph. For example, I saw one chart (British) that listed 50mph = 141ft. I've actually been practicing that distance for about a year, thinking I was doing great. Now that I see your distances, clearly I need to tighten things up. Thank you.
Hi, thank you!😊 About distances - these are average distances for training, which we found empirical way during classes. They are distances which you can get on good pavement with good tires. You measure them from the moment you started applying brakes to a complete stop. And distances which you get on charts usually also account for reaction time. Actually for 50mph if you add 1 second for reaction time (that would be 73ft) to 68ft which you are actually braking you will have exactly 141ft. Pretty cool coincidence!
Howdy, I'm guessing these numbers are probably empirical (measured from real results). But it tracks pretty well with the known laws of energy Ek=1/2*m*v^2 kinetic energy is equal to 0.5 times the mass times the square of velocity. Basically, the faster you are going the longer you need at a squared rate. Double the speed, four times the stopping energy. i.e. 25mph needs 18ft, then 50mph v=2*25mph, with mass staying the same you need 2^2 or four times the stopping distance, 72ft! Very close to the 68ft, the difference can be attributed to the delay before progressive braking has hit full force with 25mph being affected more than 50mph. The faster speed needs more total time to brake but you actually spend a greater amount of time braking at 100% vs say 2s of progressive. i.e. 25mph might need 3 seconds of braking; 2s being progressive, and 1s at 100%. But 50mph needs say 8 seconds; still 2s of progressive braking, but 6s of 100% braking pressure after the front suspension is loaded. Progressive braking is only used to shift weight onto the front to achieve maximum tyre grip on the front brakes, you are probably braking at about 50%(averaged) for the 2s until the front suspension is loaded up and the tyre is ready to take 100% Friction/grip with the road is a result of pure downforce times the coefficient of friction, the coefficient is static and unchanging no matter the width of tyre the only way to brake faster is to get friction force up by increasing the load on the tyre. Sorry I went full science nerd but hopefully the physics is interesting atleast. TLDR; Stopping distance is squared vs relative speed, and stopping ability is dictated by downforce on front tyre.
@@tomdella9255 lol...yep, you definitely went "full science nerd," yet I do appreciate your intelligent, thoughtful explanation. Science has never been my strong suit, but I was still able to distill enough practical knowledge from your thesis. :) Seriously, much appreciated. That's why I like Andrei's channel...it fosters a more serious analysis and discussion as to how we all can improve, as opposed to the usual dumbshittery in the comments section of other YT channels lol
Brother thank you very much. I just bought a BMW f800r and was absolutely convinced that the rear break was always the safer choice. This video definitely saved me from making a costly and probably very harmful mistake. Thanks!!!!
@@KristianKumpula I did, but I guess my instructor was very crappy for what I know now. I got enrolled in a new course, what a big difference. All because of this channel.
I rode with a guy who told me he only used his front brake. I told him how important front brake was but he didn’t listen and ended up losing a leg in an accident that he could have avoided. Very sad.
Man I can't thank you enough for this! About 20, 25 years ago I delivered pizzas on Honda Cub 90s in Dublin. We rode em all round the city and beyond as if they were bicycles! Then I got myself, briefly, a Suzuki 125 and it took me ages to get the hang of this 'proper' bike! I went about 20 years hardly riding a motorbike but have recently taken it up again at 47, and it is indeed, like riding a bike! A lot has come back to me naturally, but obviously these are bigger beasts and deserve much more respect and need to be handled properly. I wasn't that formally educated years ago, I just had a license up to 125cc and I only recently took the lessons for my A licence. I now have a VFR which is, of course, Very Niiice! Hopefully age, experience, great youtube videos like yours and having chilled out a lot since should make me a safer 750 rider than the 90 rider of old! Thank you for all this instruction, which while I already know a lot of it, it's great revision and I've also learned a hell of a lot from these tutorials. Your instruction and presentation is fantastic. Gracias amigo!
I loved your two reasons for purposefully laying your bike down! LOL. I almost didn't watch your video when you said you were going to show us how and when to "lay your bike down," because nobody ever lays their bike down on purpose.
Very good. Inspires me to practice more. Another topic is trail braking in corners. I ride on winding hilly roads, so on the down hill with tight closing corners trail braking is essential.Thanks again.
This will be my first drill when I get my next bike. Been a while but I know I can still do it. Your physics explanations are very good & easy to understand. -Matt’s dad
I feel a bit better about braking with ABS now. I still don't trust it after decades of progressive braking on non-ABS bikes. I still find myself progressive braking and I'm happy if the ABS can help in some way if it wants to :)
@@heritagehillsecurity8778 If the braking is hard enough you will feel "pulsing", its why many track day riders disable it. For the street, its about safety, for the track its about speed and control. ABS allows more newbs to survive the braking learning curve, and perhaps even some experienced, that are riding a bit lazy.
@@arnab6408 actually, the main reason they invented abs is to minimise stopping distance. If you study the phisics behind it, you will find that in case of slipping on wet or frozen road, the friction momentum is bigger than the friction force, translating in smaller braking distance if the wheels are still rotating. When the tire loses adherence, don't grab the brake. Another example is using engine brake on cars in the winter.
So? He is telling you how to PRACTICE getting a feel for maximum braking at the edge of traction. Nowhere in the video did he say to lift the back tire while on the road in traffic or during uk exams......
Great video. Braking is such a tremendously vital skill on a bike. It can literally be the difference between life and death if a person doesn't know how to do it properly.
I’ll be re training far far more than I did way back in the late 70s…been a very long time returning to bikes…this time around at least I, we, have so much excellent advice on how to ride…basically I know nothing…..so best I practice, and practice I will….brilliant video…
First vehicle I owned with a front brake was a 1965 Moped sold by Montgomery Wards . I locked up the front wheel and crashed. I started practicing with that brake a lot . Until I could lift the back wheel without loosing control every time. Now under hard breaking my biggest problem is getting hit from behind.
Hey Andrey, I am so happy to see some real high quality content, presented in such a sympathetic attitude. Which makes the video so much inviting to learn and understand. And it is obvious that being a skilled rider is not enough to be a very good tutor. You show this so precise. I wish a lot of luck in growing your business. Thanks for doing what you do. I will also make a donation each month for your effort. Which is nothing compared to your effort.
Instead of laying your bike down in an emergency, progressively threshold brake heavily, and focus on a spot you can fit into. Don't focus on what you are about to hit, find an opening, look there, and go there. Your tires can slow you down and turn you much better than your leathers.
Great informative episode! Even it's one of the most talked about subjects on YT Moto videos, it's still good to see different takes on it from various qualified people. And it all helps to get better with breaks! Thanks
I enjoy your videos, keep them coming 👍🏻 You do have an error in your explanation when you say applying brakes mid corner adds counter steer. It does the opposite. As you slow the bike, the bike will direct steer tighter to keep itself from falling over. So, when braking in a corner, you are creating more aggressive self-steering. Self steering is the bike using basic physics to direct-steer and reduce lean angle. The harder you brake in a corner, the more you are reducing your speed, and the bike will reduce the lean angle with direct-steering to match the reduced speed because the bike will automatically do everything possible to not fall over. 2 wheeled vehicles would be impossible to ride without self-steering. I think you will agree with this, so I just wanted to mention it for other viewers.
While you said applying the front brake is one of the most common mistakes at 2:32, there was a groove in the road at exactly the angle that the bike was traveling while changing lanes which looked more to be the cause of the crash.
Unfortunately for most riders they concern themselves with acceleration skills before braking skills. So many riders I have seen, or know ride at speeds above their braking skills at high speeds. Slower speed braking is important, but if you are rolling 60 80 100+ mph you better know how to brake those speeds in all manners and emergency situations, because your ability to predict what is going to happen has a very small window, In fact prediction is the biggest part of surviving traffic, and where experience makes the biggest difference. You can have great skill but if your ability to predict is weak, again, that window of reaction time shrinks..roll easy brothers.
And of course the ABS takes care of all this for you especially when it's fast and there's no time to think ! Sometimes all of this training is out of the window when you panic...Always always get a bike with ABS this can safe your life and even embarrassing moments. Great video as usual ! Thank you.
Your point is valid. ABS will save more newbs learning curve with braking than anything. But training does not go out the window when you panic IF your training for panic, which most never do. Most ride at speeds far above their braking skill level.
Most vintage bikes do not have ABS, so if you are into those instead of all those lookalike modern KTM’s and BMW’s you WILL HAVE TO learn how to brake fast and agressively! Plus: It’s not only about stopping but also about collision-avoidance and exit-path tactics - ideally even preventing dangerous situations in the first place.
One thing I learned about abs is that the weight still needs to be on the front before you grab for it to work properly. If you instantly grab before suspension compresses: front fork, wheel, suspension shakes back and forth & it takes a lot of time for the bike to stop. So it's fine if you squeeze for ~0.3 seconds and grab but it's not fine if you grab it instantly. Unlike a car
Hi, thanks!☺ I have an experience with Kawasaki's K-Act on VN1700, which is, I believe, similar thing. I wouldn't say it changed my life, but a good system to have certainly😁
When you practice braking, don't just brake because you're at your trigger. You are just teaching your brain to brake fast at tennis balls or orange cones. Picture common and even uncommon reasons you will have to emergency brake once you have the technique down. Our brains don't know the difference and we are quicker to react to things we've seen before, even if they are only from our imaginations. This applies to all emergency maneuver practice.
Wow! Someone who understands the mechanics of braking. Very rare on TH-cam. Most motorcycles have telescoping front suspension. Just sitting on the motorcycle, the front springs have to hold up half (roughly) the sprung weight. Preload puts you in the center of the range. For linear springs, for every inch the tubes telescope into each other an additional amount of force is put on the front wheel. Say 50 bs. per inch of compression. Times 2 springs (right and left, not always true) is 100 lbs. per inch of compression. So as weight transfers forwards the springs compress more and provide more downforce. The harder you are pushing down on the front tire, the harder you can brake. The more your front forks are compressed, the harder you can brake (until they hit the stops). If you just jam the brakes on full, they haven't compressed yet and you will just lock up the front tire. Be a bit patient and that braking force may be acceptable. There is also damping. The rate at which the fork tubes compress into each other, inches per second, transfers force (weight). So faster braking aids in faster braking to an extent. There are limits. I upped the front compression damping on my CB1000R and it made a HUGE difference in how fast I could get on the brakes. Factory stock, I had to say "one Mississippi". Now it's "one". The biggest reason for damping is to turn the energy stored in the springs into heat, so that the forks don't just bounce up and down for a long time. But damping also has a major effect on stopping. The downside of a lot of compression damping is that it takes a bit longer for the forks to compress. No free lunch. That expensive fully adjustable suspension isn't just poser gear, it actually does something.
Great videos, thank you! But just as you said, more than proper braking, it's about anticipation. Majority of those accidents can easily be attributed to bikers not reading situation properly and failing to adjust m
Thank you for sharing this great information, what do you do if rear tire skid and then lock up, putting you in high side potential, how to prevent skid of rear wheel from turning to high side? Thanks
Just discovered your channel, I love it! You have a very intelligent and descriptive way of presenting your material, kind of reminds me of Mike on Bikes.
Defensive style, antecipztion and adapted speed gives you a TIME CUSSION...that was the therm used ...maybe this helps to understand the proper distance even more, succes fellowmotorriders
Andrei your videos are really good! I especially liked this one and the one about jerky engines (seemed that you were the only one to understand my concern with that one). One question, you mention a few times how arms should be relaxed. I was wondering if you could speak to braking on a scooter where you have to use your arms to not crash into the handlebars? Maybe even a video about since I imagine that scooters are a popular way of getting around in the Southen Hemisphere? :) Thank you for all you do!
Thanks! About scooters - I don't have much experience on them really, always been more into motorcycles:) But the basics are the same - try to remove as much weight from your arms as you can. On scooter it would be a little more difficult, but on the other hand usually on scooter you have much less speed and inertia to deal with.
Thank you so much for such a clear way to understand front tire breaking. One question, what do you think about using one or two fingers when breaking?
Really brilliant and thorough.Thanks. Just wondering - you mentioned about releasing back break before the end of the breaking period.. before load is mostly on front break. However I don't think you mentioned at which point to use back break - and how much. Do I apply it at the same moment as the front? and gradually squeeze like the front? but not as much? then release sooner? Or do I just tape it a bit during middle of breaking period then release?
Very Good Information. I will like for you to add the use of engine braking to the whole concept, and do a follow up video on advanced brKing technics. Thank you.
A good way to understand how to lay a motorcycle down if you need to is to watch dirt track speedway riders who use this technique to ride the curved parts of the track without actually dropping the bike.Some time on long sweeping curves with sand or some other slippery substance on the road it may save you but not as easy to do on a sports bike.
When you lock the rear wheel stand on your foot pegs and come in drifting mode.And remember to release it and then again start applying. And also apply some small amount of front break. 😅
hey man, thank you for delivering a good and so simple to understand braking system. Now can you please talk about the breaking method in bikes which doesn't have ABS on it( mostly on 125CC bikes in India) but have only one disc break in the front wheel not in the rear. It would be very glad. Thank you
Press the break until you eliminate the free play in the lever then simply squeeze the breaks with two fingers. Don't grab the brake and overload the front tire. Just gently squeeze until you squeeze all the bay. Practice and you will master it in no time. I got ABS on my G310R and I only managed to activate the ABS once in 7 or 8 months of riding. Pretty sure you can find some defensive driving courses. ABS should be used as a backup and it shouldn't replace good breaking technique
Man, this tutorial saved my life today when I had to break hard in my Duke without ABS. Thank you sir
Wow, I'm glad you handled the situation well! Respect!
@@MotoControlEn i am new rider. I just followed your excercise to better control my breaks. A kid suddenly run into my bike when I was moving at 50 km/h and I have 20 meters to react. Luckily, i used progressive front breaking skill you taught, I and the kid are both alive. I did not touch the kid. Thank you sir
@@patrolduty8715 waao
@@patrolduty8715 I would say that you were riding sensible aswell and that makes a difference
@@itllkeal thank you. I think i am lucky because I did not run too fast. Otherwise noway i can handle it like experienced riders.
I've been riding bikes on and off for 50 years. Can still learn from a good teacher. Thank you.
16:20 Anticipation. So much YES on this, and not only for Bikes. My Dad always taught me to consider everyone around me an idiot and anticipate the dumbest thing they can do, and how I would react in said scenario. Saved my life and car many times on the road.
I'm so grateful for this video. I will watch over and over, practise a lot daily. I'm 3 days old rider. Honestly, I get scared when riding but I really want to ride and come home very safe.
Wow! Such an underrated and unseen channel. Wonderful instruction bro!
When un-sure break a tiny bit to have weight in the front of the bike. Perfect advice
This is great advice guys. That cement F'kin hurts, TAKE YOUR TIME GETTING THE FEEL. No need to rush. There are fast riders and old riders. But there are no fast old riders.
I am looking to get a motorcycle and your chanel has taught me more then any other. I will be sharing your channel. You are by far the best instructer ive seen on youtube. Very detailed and great visual explanations. Thank you
There is seriously a lot of good concise nuance to your instruction. I haven't seen and better coaching online!
Thank you!
I have done advanced courses and I'd recommend that people just stick to one channel for their information as its information overload otherwise . This is by far the best imo, I've watched a lot!
Hi Andrey,
I am back after repair of my 23yo 1150 GS:
1. STARTER, 2.OILEYE, 3. HALL-Sensor!
Now that I fixed everything I can make us smile again, while adoring your lessons:
About 5min55 you give the advice to count to TEN!
BUT as I watched some drivers (in my 50years Biker career)
there are quite a lot who are supposed hardly being able to count to THREEEEE!!!
So when they reach "10" the ambulance is on the way already!
Druzhba
Robin
Man, Andrei; this is phenomenal information - thank you! You have a real gift for teaching, and you're able to do it both succinctly and with detailed explanation, while simultaneously keeping it compelling. As others said, this is worth watching again and again. That's what I did with your U-Turn videos, and this will also prove useful of many views accompanied by practice. Question about the distances you mentioned (25mph = 18ft, 37mph = 34ft, 50mph = 68ft)...is there a source for these distances? I don't doubt you at all; rather, I've found so much conflicting information on the subject and am looking for differences up to 70mph. For example, I saw one chart (British) that listed 50mph = 141ft. I've actually been practicing that distance for about a year, thinking I was doing great. Now that I see your distances, clearly I need to tighten things up. Thank you.
Hi, thank you!😊 About distances - these are average distances for training, which we found empirical way during classes. They are distances which you can get on good pavement with good tires. You measure them from the moment you started applying brakes to a complete stop. And distances which you get on charts usually also account for reaction time. Actually for 50mph if you add 1 second for reaction time (that would be 73ft) to 68ft which you are actually braking you will have exactly 141ft. Pretty cool coincidence!
@@MotoControlEn Thank you for clarifying, Andrei. That makes sense and I'll factor "perception time" into my practice distances.
Howdy, I'm guessing these numbers are probably empirical (measured from real results). But it tracks pretty well with the known laws of energy Ek=1/2*m*v^2 kinetic energy is equal to 0.5 times the mass times the square of velocity. Basically, the faster you are going the longer you need at a squared rate. Double the speed, four times the stopping energy.
i.e. 25mph needs 18ft, then 50mph v=2*25mph, with mass staying the same you need 2^2 or four times the stopping distance, 72ft!
Very close to the 68ft, the difference can be attributed to the delay before progressive braking has hit full force with 25mph being affected more than 50mph. The faster speed needs more total time to brake but you actually spend a greater amount of time braking at 100% vs say 2s of progressive.
i.e. 25mph might need 3 seconds of braking; 2s being progressive, and 1s at 100%. But 50mph needs say 8 seconds; still 2s of progressive braking, but 6s of 100% braking pressure after the front suspension is loaded.
Progressive braking is only used to shift weight onto the front to achieve maximum tyre grip on the front brakes, you are probably braking at about 50%(averaged) for the 2s until the front suspension is loaded up and the tyre is ready to take 100%
Friction/grip with the road is a result of pure downforce times the coefficient of friction, the coefficient is static and unchanging no matter the width of tyre the only way to brake faster is to get friction force up by increasing the load on the tyre.
Sorry I went full science nerd but hopefully the physics is interesting atleast.
TLDR; Stopping distance is squared vs relative speed, and stopping ability is dictated by downforce on front tyre.
@@tomdella9255 lol...yep, you definitely went "full science nerd," yet I do appreciate your intelligent, thoughtful explanation. Science has never been my strong suit, but I was still able to distill enough practical knowledge from your thesis. :) Seriously, much appreciated. That's why I like Andrei's channel...it fosters a more serious analysis and discussion as to how we all can improve, as opposed to the usual dumbshittery in the comments section of other YT channels lol
Yes, you're right! Also on higher speeds you get more wind drag, that's why the stopping distance increases a little slower than at a square rate.
Brother thank you very much. I just bought a BMW f800r and was absolutely convinced that the rear break was always the safer choice. This video definitely saved me from making a costly and probably very harmful mistake. Thanks!!!!
Did you not have to attend any MC handling courses?
@@KristianKumpula I did, but I guess my instructor was very crappy for what I know now. I got enrolled in a new course, what a big difference. All because of this channel.
I rode with a guy who told me he only used his front brake. I told him how important front brake was but he didn’t listen and ended up losing a leg in an accident that he could have avoided. Very sad.
Man I can't thank you enough for this!
About 20, 25 years ago I delivered pizzas on Honda Cub 90s in Dublin. We rode em all round the city and beyond as if they were bicycles!
Then I got myself, briefly, a Suzuki 125 and it took me ages to get the hang of this 'proper' bike!
I went about 20 years hardly riding a motorbike but have recently taken it up again at 47, and it is indeed, like riding a bike!
A lot has come back to me naturally, but obviously these are bigger beasts and deserve much more respect and need to be handled properly.
I wasn't that formally educated years ago, I just had a license up to 125cc and I only recently took the lessons for my A licence.
I now have a VFR which is, of course,
Very Niiice!
Hopefully age, experience, great youtube videos like yours and having chilled out a lot since should make me a safer 750 rider than the 90 rider of old!
Thank you for all this instruction, which while I already know a lot of it, it's great revision and I've also learned a hell of a lot from these tutorials.
Your instruction and presentation is fantastic.
Gracias amigo!
This video just MAKES SENSE!!
One of the most detailed explanations I've ever seen, and with no complex language!
I loved your two reasons for purposefully laying your bike down! LOL.
I almost didn't watch your video when you said you were going to show us how and when to "lay your bike down," because nobody ever lays their bike down on purpose.
I just bought my first bike yesterday and watching all these videos of what do and how to do it makes me so nervous
Very good. Inspires me to practice more. Another topic is trail braking in corners. I ride on winding hilly roads, so on the down hill with tight closing corners trail braking is essential.Thanks again.
This will be my first drill when I get my next bike. Been a while but I know I can still do it.
Your physics explanations are very good & easy to understand.
-Matt’s dad
I feel a bit better about braking with ABS now. I still don't trust it after decades of progressive braking on non-ABS bikes. I still find myself progressive braking and I'm happy if the ABS can help in some way if it wants to :)
But doesn't ABS increase the braking distance? (assuming the same braking force applied in both ABS and non-ABS cases)
@@arnab6408 Maybe in some circumstances, but during a skid in the wet your hands cannot react as quickly per second as ABS.
Have you ever felt your ABS engage, now that you have it?
@@heritagehillsecurity8778 If the braking is hard enough you will feel "pulsing", its why many track day riders disable it. For the street, its about safety, for the track its about speed and control. ABS allows more newbs to survive the braking learning curve, and perhaps even some experienced, that are riding a bit lazy.
@@arnab6408 actually, the main reason they invented abs is to minimise stopping distance. If you study the phisics behind it, you will find that in case of slipping on wet or frozen road, the friction momentum is bigger than the friction force, translating in smaller braking distance if the wheels are still rotating. When the tire loses adherence, don't grab the brake. Another example is using engine brake on cars in the winter.
Thank you for this. Simple and straight to the point video. No unecessary terms and intros. Really helpful. Keep it up!
You should also do a video on diving off the road onto a shoulder to avoid an impact. That skill has saved me many times. Find the exit!!!
Using `kph` is greatly appreciated! I still had to convert `ft` to `m` though 😆 Breaking distances:
40 km/h - 5.5 m
60 km/h - 10.3 m
80 km/h - 20.7 m
One of the most educational videos on motorbikes I have ever come across. Real world application.
If there were a love button, I would hit it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Stopping without putting your foot down is pure badass.
I know that he's talking about in an emergency but in the UK tests if your rear wheel is off the ground it's a fail in the test
So? He is telling you how to PRACTICE getting a feel for maximum braking at the edge of traction. Nowhere in the video did he say to lift the back tire while on the road in traffic or during uk exams......
Great video. Braking is such a tremendously vital skill on a bike. It can literally be the difference between life and death if a person doesn't know how to do it properly.
Im so glad you covered the lay-it-down situations at the end. I'm always getting shot at on my motorcycle.
HANDSOME MAN WITH EXTREM WISDOM AND MASTERY OVER RIDING SKILLS.THANK YOU ANDRE BODROV SIR
I’ll be re training far far more than I did way back in the late 70s…been a very long time returning to bikes…this time around at least I, we, have so much excellent advice on how to ride…basically I know nothing…..so best I practice, and practice I will….brilliant video…
First vehicle I owned with a front brake was a 1965 Moped sold by Montgomery Wards . I locked up the front wheel and crashed. I started practicing with that brake a lot . Until I could lift the back wheel without loosing control every time. Now under hard breaking my biggest problem is getting hit from behind.
Definitely buying my first one with abs 😅
Hey Andrey, I am so happy to see some real high quality content, presented in such a sympathetic attitude. Which makes the video so much inviting to learn and understand.
And it is obvious that being a skilled rider is not enough to be a very good tutor. You show this so precise. I wish a lot of luck in growing your business. Thanks for doing what you do. I will also make a donation each month for your effort. Which is nothing compared to your effort.
Instead of laying your bike down in an emergency, progressively threshold brake heavily, and focus on a spot you can fit into. Don't focus on what you are about to hit, find an opening, look there, and go there. Your tires can slow you down and turn you much better than your leathers.
I think he pretty much said its only a stunt.
I need more help with braking and cornering like a roundabout
Great and very informative video as always. But this is even more important than the other videos. Thank you Andrei!
Thank you!
Great informative episode! Even it's one of the most talked about subjects on YT Moto videos, it's still good to see different takes on it from various qualified people. And it all helps to get better with breaks! Thanks
As a new rider your videos are much appreciated. Great information, delivered simply, clearly and with a sense of humour. Legend 🙌
Much better explained then in most videos among internet...
I enjoy your videos, keep them coming 👍🏻
You do have an error in your explanation when you say applying brakes mid corner adds counter steer. It does the opposite. As you slow the bike, the bike will direct steer tighter to keep itself from falling over. So, when braking in a corner, you are creating more aggressive self-steering. Self steering is the bike using basic physics to direct-steer and reduce lean angle. The harder you brake in a corner, the more you are reducing your speed, and the bike will reduce the lean angle with direct-steering to match the reduced speed because the bike will automatically do everything possible to not fall over. 2 wheeled vehicles would be impossible to ride without self-steering.
I think you will agree with this, so I just wanted to mention it for other viewers.
While you said applying the front brake is one of the most common mistakes at 2:32, there was a groove in the road at exactly the angle that the bike was traveling while changing lanes which looked more to be the cause of the crash.
Unfortunately for most riders they concern themselves with acceleration skills before braking skills. So many riders I have seen, or know ride at speeds above their braking skills at high speeds. Slower speed braking is important, but if you are rolling 60 80 100+ mph you better know how to brake those speeds in all manners and emergency situations, because your ability to predict what is going to happen has a very small window, In fact prediction is the biggest part of surviving traffic, and where experience makes the biggest difference. You can have great skill but if your ability to predict is weak, again, that window of reaction time shrinks..roll easy brothers.
And of course the ABS takes care of all this for you especially when it's fast and there's no time to think ! Sometimes all of this training is out of the window when you panic...Always always get a bike with ABS this can safe your life and even embarrassing moments. Great video as usual ! Thank you.
Your point is valid. ABS will save more newbs learning curve with braking than anything. But training does not go out the window when you panic IF your training for panic, which most never do. Most ride at speeds far above their braking skill level.
Training creates knowledge, yes? And knowledge reduces panic responses. Training, therefore, increases successful outcomes. ❤
Strongly agreed. There is no shame in getting abs. If ppl can use seatbelts or airbags then we too can use abs
Yeah but it's better to know the right techniques instead of depending on the technology.
Most vintage bikes do not have ABS, so if you are into those instead of all those lookalike modern KTM’s and BMW’s you WILL HAVE TO learn how to brake fast and agressively!
Plus: It’s not only about stopping but also about collision-avoidance and exit-path tactics - ideally even preventing dangerous situations in the first place.
Dont use rear brake, just pop in some lower gears use engine braking and dose it with the clutch.. its much safer and wont lock it up.
Watch a Moto Control video every day! It will keep your head in the game.
One thing I learned about abs is that the weight still needs to be on the front before you grab for it to work properly. If you instantly grab before suspension compresses: front fork, wheel, suspension shakes back and forth & it takes a lot of time for the bike to stop.
So it's fine if you squeeze for ~0.3 seconds and grab but it's not fine if you grab it instantly. Unlike a car
this is more valuable than gold. This saves lifes!
Thank you for using the correct spelling of brake
Thanks for all the information. Your videos are useful. Do you have any experience with CBS brake systems? Keep up the good work! :)
Hi, thanks!☺ I have an experience with Kawasaki's K-Act on VN1700, which is, I believe, similar thing. I wouldn't say it changed my life, but a good system to have certainly😁
When you practice braking, don't just brake because you're at your trigger. You are just teaching your brain to brake fast at tennis balls or orange cones. Picture common and even uncommon reasons you will have to emergency brake once you have the technique down. Our brains don't know the difference and we are quicker to react to things we've seen before, even if they are only from our imaginations. This applies to all emergency maneuver practice.
Wow! Someone who understands the mechanics of braking. Very rare on TH-cam. Most motorcycles have telescoping front suspension. Just sitting on the motorcycle, the front springs have to hold up half (roughly) the sprung weight. Preload puts you in the center of the range. For linear springs, for every inch the tubes telescope into each other an additional amount of force is put on the front wheel. Say 50 bs. per inch of compression. Times 2 springs (right and left, not always true) is 100 lbs. per inch of compression. So as weight transfers forwards the springs compress more and provide more downforce. The harder you are pushing down on the front tire, the harder you can brake. The more your front forks are compressed, the harder you can brake (until they hit the stops). If you just jam the brakes on full, they haven't compressed yet and you will just lock up the front tire. Be a bit patient and that braking force may be acceptable. There is also damping. The rate at which the fork tubes compress into each other, inches per second, transfers force (weight). So faster braking aids in faster braking to an extent. There are limits. I upped the front compression damping on my CB1000R and it made a HUGE difference in how fast I could get on the brakes. Factory stock, I had to say "one Mississippi". Now it's "one". The biggest reason for damping is to turn the energy stored in the springs into heat, so that the forks don't just bounce up and down for a long time. But damping also has a major effect on stopping. The downside of a lot of compression damping is that it takes a bit longer for the forks to compress. No free lunch. That expensive fully adjustable suspension isn't just poser gear, it actually does something.
You have a PHD in springs,we’ll done
Great videos, thank you! But just as you said, more than proper braking, it's about anticipation. Majority of those accidents can easily be attributed to bikers not reading situation properly and failing to adjust m
Great channel, keep up the good work. You are a great instructor. Best wishes from The Netherlands.
I try to stay back so I don't have to stop too quickly but practice makes perfect. Thanks
Thank you for sharing this great information, what do you do if rear tire skid and then lock up, putting you in high side potential, how to prevent skid of rear wheel from turning to high side? Thanks
Thank you so much for educating all our beginners!!! Appreciate
Just discovered your channel, I love it! You have a very intelligent and descriptive way of presenting your material, kind of reminds me of Mike on Bikes.
Thank you!
Defensive style, antecipztion and adapted speed gives you a TIME CUSSION...that was the therm used ...maybe this helps to understand the proper distance even more, succes fellowmotorriders
Informative one Andrei. All these little things put into big perspective, helps finesse our skills.
Thanks very much for this video, it has cleared up many things I was confused about regarding braking especially in turns.
Andrei your videos are really good! I especially liked this one and the one about jerky engines (seemed that you were the only one to understand my concern with that one).
One question, you mention a few times how arms should be relaxed. I was wondering if you could speak to braking on a scooter where you have to use your arms to not crash into the handlebars? Maybe even a video about since I imagine that scooters are a popular way of getting around in the Southen Hemisphere? :)
Thank you for all you do!
Thanks! About scooters - I don't have much experience on them really, always been more into motorcycles:) But the basics are the same - try to remove as much weight from your arms as you can. On scooter it would be a little more difficult, but on the other hand usually on scooter you have much less speed and inertia to deal with.
Top notch vid! Thank you. I'll be going through all of your videos. I just bought a new bike. :)
Thank you so much for such a clear way to understand front tire breaking. One question, what do you think about using one or two fingers when breaking?
Very well explained
Will probably save people lives
Well done 👏 ✔️
Yes Andrei, I agree. Those are the only 2 reasons you would lay down the bike.
the braking distance is really helpful thank you!
Is it possible to also use the metric system please. Thanks. Love your videos btw
Lobotomyt … 😅 love this insult … thanks again for another fantastic video of useful riding tips … I’m sure you are helping many riders become safer !
"Lobotomite" 🤣🤣🤣 great video 👍 extremely useful guide to take with you to practice. Thanks!!!
you are genious,a great friend and a very experienced master of ridinf skills love you deeply and appreciate YOU EMMENSELY
Really brilliant and thorough.Thanks. Just wondering - you mentioned about releasing back break before the end of the breaking period.. before load is mostly on front break. However I don't think you mentioned at which point to use back break - and how much. Do I apply it at the same moment as the front? and gradually squeeze like the front? but not as much? then release sooner? Or do I just tape it a bit during middle of breaking period then release?
Thank you for this video! You helped me understand nuances to breaking that I hadn’t grasped.
You are the best. Informative, authoritative and fun. Ты красива
Trail braking and counter steering in a corner do not fit together?
amazing clip! thank you for your time and investment
Oh Man! Second? 🤣 Wow! A lot of good info to take in. I will have to watch this again. Thank you Andrei! 😊
Second!😄
Solid advice as always. Thanks for posting this.
Very good tutorial on breaking thankyou 👍🏍
Very Good Information. I will like for you to add the use of engine braking to the whole concept, and do a follow up video on advanced brKing technics. Thank you.
And when we have to use both brakes hard what happens with the clutch ?
Nice videos by the way, you doing great work!!
Man you re explaining very well, thank you for such great content!
Perfectly explained. Thank you!
Great info, well explained and articulated. Thks for the quality video!
A good way to understand how to lay a motorcycle down if you need to is to watch dirt track speedway riders who use this technique to ride the curved parts of the track without actually dropping the bike.Some time on long sweeping curves with sand or some other slippery substance on the road it may save you but not as easy to do on a sports bike.
Hi Mr.Andrei nice video but as a beginner I would like to know how much usage of clutch should be in all this
When I was teenager I bought motorcycles with very bad brakes and didn’t had money to fix so most my brake tactics was down shifting 😬
Nice explanation and video capturing bro ! Keep it up and thank you for uploading this....Count me in as one of your subscriber.
When you lock the rear wheel stand on your foot pegs and come in drifting mode.And remember to release it and then again start applying. And also apply some small amount of front break. 😅
Greetings from UK , your my new favorite channel and I don't even own a bike yet 😂
Great information. Thanks.
Thank you!😊
hey man, thank you for delivering a good and so simple to understand braking system. Now can you please talk about the breaking method in bikes which doesn't have ABS on it( mostly on 125CC bikes in India) but have only one disc break in the front wheel not in the rear. It would be very glad. Thank you
Press the break until you eliminate the free play in the lever then simply squeeze the breaks with two fingers. Don't grab the brake and overload the front tire. Just gently squeeze until you squeeze all the bay.
Practice and you will master it in no time. I got ABS on my G310R and I only managed to activate the ABS once in 7 or 8 months of riding.
Pretty sure you can find some defensive driving courses.
ABS should be used as a backup and it shouldn't replace good breaking technique
Haha, you got us with the laying it down business. That's usually just used as an excuse for crashing.
Many thanks for this valuable information ☺️.
What about engine braking.. i ride a HD sposter.. and I find it very useful and safe..
Word of the day Lobotomite
Love it 😊
Very good instractions!! Thank you!
Love this new style of video !
Thanks!
What about engine braking and rev' matching, always a good skill to have, but an absolute necessity when emergency braking from higher speeds..?
Awsome mate. Really well explained. Spasiba
Great video, very useful, liked and subbed.