I had this situation too! Quick lube place stripped oil drain thread and put in one of those rubber plug to hold the oil. When I found out about it I went back to them and they just simply denied that they did that. Lesson learnt, never to bring your vehicle to those chain auto service places!
How does this happen exactly? Impact/air rattler on the drain bolt? There must be some consumer law where they'd have to pay for a replacement pan; I would hope, anyway.
MattExzy No idea how they do what they do but my guess is that they never learned to learn. Sure that aren’t “paid enough” but they earned it. It will be difficult to prove that they broke stuff unless you are right there catch them: they won’t mind telling you it was broken to begin with.
@@MattExzy Hit the nail on the head. Or the drainplug on the head. impact wrenches to remove and reinstall drain plugs. You'd think there would be consumer protection. but my guess if you chose them so you are liable. but their insurance is liable too. They always try to get out of their mistakes. Oftentimes with the stripped plugs.
Am I the only one that loves how he says “Friend” instead of “Friends”, like he’s talking specifically to us but in a singular way like he knows us? I love that! Keeps me coming back!
I think you're exactly correct, that is a part that they have manufactured for themselves for when this happens. They can do a quick fix and the customer would never know the difference. In their defense a little bit, it can happen to them even if they did not cause the damage. if you've been taking your car to some other place and they've been putting way too much torque on that drain bolt. You take it to another shop and it can strip even when you're just removing the bolt . This happened to me on my own car I bought it used, and I do all my own maintenance. I had noticed that as you remove the drain bolt about halfway out it would get difficult to turn . eventually it stripped the threads and I had to get a new oil pan which was 50 bucks. So my point is it's not always the shop's fault that ends up having to do the repair
kens97sto171 Spot on, we call these piggy back plugs, hold a 19 on the big part.. crack the small with an eleven and let the oil drip out... not that hard
@@kens97sto171 This is true. In my younger years, I would take my car to Firestone for their $14.95 oil special. About the second or third time they knew I wasn't going for their "dangerous" bushing scare where they couldn't even change a control arm and needed to keep my car for three days!! And then they knew I knew better and the gorilla was trying to lean in his whole body weight AND double wrench that sucker WITH ME STANDING THERE! You better bet I almost blew a gasket because I yelled immediately for him to stop. He didn't argue. He knew I knew. Brazen and bold these guys are. Liars. Right in front of you lying to your face liars. I made him loosen it so the next person who removed it tht threads wouldn't come out with the plug. Now, I do want to add, just retap the hole, flush out the shavings with whatever fluid that's compatible. Not oil, waste, and too thick. Maybe kerosene or a mix of the two. A little oil for any shavings to grab onto. Luckily you have the skill and tools to change the pan.
@@LAactor Yeah you're absolutely correct. Unfortunately even dealership mechanics are often incompetent at this point. Yeah I could have chased the threads except that it had actually ripped the threads out of the pan so there wasn't really anything left for the bolt to get into it wouldn't even thread back in at all because it tore the threads out all the way to the end of the nut insert. The new pan was available locally it was $45 12, 10 mm bolts and a little screwdriver to pry the pan away from the engine block period it was stuck on there pretty good with whatever that factory RTV was the white stuff that's sort of half RTV and glue. I thought about getting one of those ValvoMax oil drain valve systems. They have a nice backup and redundancy system to prevent leaks. Unfortunately in my car the angle and location of the drain hole would make it actually hang below the k-member. So if I ever dragged a curb or ran over something it could rip it out of the oil pan. It's a quality made product however so if you have a vehicle with a oil drain hole that's higher up they're pretty damn nice. They're made out of brass you thread them into the oil drain hole and then there's a threaded on cap that goes over the top so even if the internal valve fails the external cap would prevent it from leaking. There's a secondary part that you use to get the oil out of the car period so you unthread the cover cap and then thread in this secondary piece it trips the internal valve and dumps the oil and it even has a hose attached to it if you want to get it into a bucket or something without spraying around. About 30 bucks or so.
@Lars that is correct your better off doing things yourself at least you know what will happen how the hell did they break those clips there made out of strong plastic
This, among other reasons, is why I change my own oil. A friend had his oil changed at one of these places. His oil filter fell off and he lost all his oil. The quicky lube joint of course denied it was their fault and said he must have hit something. Luckily the filter fell into a shroud below the oil pan. I asked him for the brand and number on the filter. It was a brand not normally sold at retail and a quick search on the manufacturers website indicated it was for a Hyundai, not my friends Ford Focus. I told him to take pictures of the filter, and take it back to the quicky lube joint, and that he had them dead to rights. They ended up paying for the engine replacement. Also, you never know what type or grade of oil they are using, they probably don't know or care. With modern engines requiring synthetic oil and specific weights of oil , you are really rolling the dice going to those places. Learn to change your own oil or seek out a reputable shop.
@@genoaoak ya sure a day or a few hrs is nothing you could catch a bus train or people could get a lift to wherever they needed to go while the car is getting fixed there's no need to be chancing bringing the car to these sketchy places and anyway oil is not that hard to change even on a German car it's quite simple
@@genoaoak You also don't know if it's recycled or bulk oil either. Cheap burning just barely passsing spec filtered oil. Oil is cheap. One time someon tried to con me and say oil is expensive! Tell them you're getting ripped off if you think oil is expensive. $15 at walmart or $25 for full synthetic.
I think this is a cheap fix for damaged (stripped) oil pan, I used it once on my Corolla's damaged oil drain and it worked fine.It's made by Dorman and sold at Autozone and Ebay as well. It's called a piggyback oil drain plug
Remember drain plugs like that in the 60's and 70's , We would wrap cotton string around the plug soak it with Permatex no.3 then thread it in. Showing my age and old school fixes.
Fords in the 70’s were the worst! The oil pans had a thin piece welded to the pan and threaded to accept the plug, and it didn’t take much effort at all to strip them! I still have a container of 1/2-0, and 1/2-1 oversized plugs that would cut new threads, a lot like the base plug in this video! This brought back a lot of memories!
Peter, that plug I ordered from internet and is a Dorman product called Oil-Tite. It comes in different sizes as mine is an M14-1.50, item #65229 for a 2010 Honda Accord. Have not used it yet as I still have some threads on the pan and was able to fix with original plug and some RTV black. To date no leaks. Appreciate your honesty in trying to save the customer some money. I was quoted $600.00 to replace my oil pan. Keep up the great videos.
Yes Peter, A new oil pan is the answer for the next 18 years of this Lexus's life. My new outboard recently had its drain plug stripped/cross threaded by the marina and it will be properly replaced not just patched up.
My intuition is to use a copper crush washer and gasket maker for the extender. The plastic washer is too hard/rigid to deform to the pan shape for a perfect seal.
I worked at a Ford dealership in 1981 on the lube rack. Changed oil everyday on multiple cars. Drain holes with damaged threads was VERY common. We had a kit that contained multiple sizes of self tapping drain plugs. Installed several and never once had a problem.
I've had the opposite happen to me one time at a quick lube place. The person who changed my oil didn't tighten the drain plug. The next time I needed an oil change I did it myself because the weather was warm. I was able to remove the drain plug with my fingers. I'm really glad that it didn't come loose somewhere on the road. I don't drive a lot now that I am retired, so I have all of my oil changes done at a dealership.
I'm not sure what the "proper" name is for that drain plug, but it was installed by a novice. I agree with you completely, on your repair and recommendation, for a new drain pan install. Had this been my car I would have you order the proper drain pan and once it came in, I'd schedule an engine oil and filter change. This way you could replace it all together properly. I'd also drop my vehicle off to you the day before so you could drain over night. I really enjoy your videos. I really enjoyed this one because, like you, I've never seen this drain situation. I learned something also. Again, great video and thanks for sharing! :)
JB Weld to the rescue again! There are other ways to fix this that are more aesthetically pleasing, like tapping new threads, but Peter’s time is valuable too. The only thing I would have done differently is use an aluminum washer where the plastic washer was, but still use epoxy to make double sure it doesn’t leak.
I haven't seen one of those for quite some time, but in the past they were fairly common and you could find them at the corner auto store. I wouldn't use one. A temp solution only.
When I used to work for a Toyota dealership part department, I had to deliver a engine oil drain pain that got stripped and cracked at a firestone tire shop. They hired a eighteen old pothead kid to change oil and stuff and the kid must have zoned out while he was tightening the drain plug nut. Those toyota drain pan sure do cost a lot, but the tire shop did agree to pay after the lady made fuss about it.
Their shops are so shady! It's all about writing up repair tickets. One time as a kid, they gave me an estimate of double the value of the car at least! And tried to scare a young kid into not driving it as it was "dangerous."
I've repaired plugs like this. Weld a half coupling 1/2 or 3/8 NPT to the pan then screw a plug right into it permanently fixed. Costing a couple of dollars.
Could this be fixed by tapping out the stripped hole to the next oversize and then replacing the drain plug with an oversize plug? Seems like a 15 minute job. Any opinions?
I Was at Autozone five months ago and brought a couple of ecoplugs $9.99 for my vehicles including the magnetic removal tool $9.99not only did ecoplug resolve my stripped oil pan problem on one vehicle on my other I installed it to make changing my oil better.I can literally drain my oil and reinstall the ecoplugs in a second without getting covered in oil.Word to the wise these ecoplugs have extremely strong magnets when using removal tool to remove ecoplug slide the tool off.
That is a single-oversized piggyback drain plug. It's probably a Dorman item. Someone stripped the plug, probably by using an impact wrench to tighten it. They then called a parts place, the counterman looked up the car's stock drain plug size, and picked the single-oversized that matched the original drain plug threads. It is a self-tapping drain plug that is a little larger in diameter than the original. You turn it in, and it cuts new threads. The little plug is now the part you remove to drain the oil. These piggyback drain plugs come in double-oversize as well.
I have a 99 Camry that comes with a M12-1.25 drain plug. I tried a Dorman M12-1.25 S.O(single overize) with the self taping feature. It just won’t screw in to start the cutting process. What can I do?
Interesting. Is there anything stopping you from using a regular tap and possibly a new drain bolt? Maybe even if they just used proper gasket maker around it may not have leaked.
I had one shop fix the rear main seal and when installing the oil pan, stripped the block out putting the pan back. There were even bolts missing which I suspect were so stripped they didn’t bother putting back.
Get a written estimate by another shop and sue them in small claims court . It will cost them at least half a day to show up and put in a defense . Record the damage on a phone and show it in court . They ALL have a big mouth - till they get a summons to appear in court . You MUST use the 100 % correct LEGAL name if the business . It may say " Joe's " but that can be a DBA . They could be ABC Auto Repair Inc. , D/B/A " Joe's Auto Shop " .
it looked to me that that smaller plug, wasn't the proper length... or the threads weren't correct. It didn't seem to screw into the female part quite long enough.
Looks like a Needa piggy-back oil drain plug Part # 65228 (Advance Auto Parts). I think it possibly had the wrong gasket for sealing to the pan (or the whole thing just wasn't put in correctly) and besides, and I don't think the gasket you found down in the throat of that big nut should be where it was but rather, the picture of the part shows that gasket right at the top of the insert's threads.
at 8:57 and 9:01 you can see where the repair plug only partially made contact with the nylon washer, and not a full 360 degrees. My bet is the repair plug wasn't threaded in square to the hole.
These places are incompetent ! They stripped my drain plug. I am a female and can do basic maintenance on my vehicle and know lefty loosey, righty tighty. After that I went back to changing my own oil again. I have never had any problems since. Never go to oil change shops ! Never !
Yes, this time oil won't leak but there is a good possibility of ripping out that adapter, driving over a big rock or curb. I would replace that oil pain next time.
I have the same problem now on a lexus. the oil pan stripped threads. The correct plug for that is m12. I am thinking to buy a M12 piggyback plug for it. When I looked at the old plug that came out had a spring like coil on the thread. what should I do now?
People are saying put in an oversized or self tapping plug in instead saying it's permanent. Say if someone just doesn't have the money to repair and change a pan.
It's called a "piggy back plug" it is often used when a lube shop finds that the threads are stripped, but the customer will not pay for a proper repair.
The worst part of that thing is the way it hangs down, If it gets knocked off by driving over something the engine oil could be gone in seconds. I wonder if a simple M12X1.25 drain bolt and thread sealer could have be used instead, giving a lower profile. You don't need the self taping part, the threads are already cut, and a regular bolt may seal better because it is not tapered for self tapping.
This is before they put the oversized piggyback in or as it is now? Because now after it's tapped, it's slightly larger than that original plug so you'd have to use rtv sealant or gasket maker every single time.
In some cases new oil pan can be a rarity. Oil Pain Thread Repair kit is good solution here. Kit contains oversized plugs and thread cutters. m13x1.25 instead of m12x1.25. I would argue that it would be a permanent fix.
I have one of those self tapping gizmos. It's made by DORMAN. I think it's called a piggyback, single oversized and simple. M12-1.25 S.O* I haven't used it yet and maybe now I won't.
I wonder if all the oil junk would come out or get caught by the lip of the end of the plug. Like in this video more oil came out after he took out the big plug that would sit above the lowest point of the pan.
Humm that looks like it was only partially installed. The repair part should have had a flare to prevent removal. My guess is that step requires the pan to be removed to remove the flare tool. And that washer is basically a piece of nylon or Teflon plastic.
When taking you car to these oil lube shops they often over torque when putting the plug back on guaranteeing not only no oil leaks but creating difficulty in removing the plug if you decide to change your own oil the next time so you will take it back to them. I found this out when doing my wife's and kid's cars when I finally had time to change the oil myself. Avoid these cheap lube places. Go to a real mechanic if you want to pay someone.
If you have never seen one of these you must have never been inside an auto parts store or looked at the Dorman catalog...and That would have held if you replaced that nylon washer with an O ring...You need to hire me to order all of your impossible to obtain parts like that oil pan and that never seen before Dorman oil pan plug! What is this your first day?
Back in the seventies I had a friend who is a stoner he forgot to tighten the oil plug when he worked at a oil change place eventually the plug fell out they burned up the motor and sued the service station I think the guy's name was Jim 😂😂😂😋😋
New oil pan by Dorman should work or use teflon tape on threads with rubber washer. That's why I do my own oil changes. Can't even get tires balanced w/o incompetent techs using impact wrench on lugs. Just lazy. Torque specs for my Toyota 76 ft lbs. Joker at garage says we do all vehicles @100ft lbs. Not my car. SMDH.🤨
Im underneath 30 oil changes a day, these come in handy sometimes... Cant tell you how many times you take the plug out, starts coming out tight.. go to put it back in and it keeps spinning lol Fucking hate fixing other morons work
You act like you found something off the space shuttle, and criticize it without having any knowledge. These have been around for 40+ years, and work great with the right gasket. Russians used one where you drilled a smaller plug into the stripped plug and tapped it, and then welded it to the pan. Also worked great. You can tell in the comments who has never had a pan off. Lots have the threads in the pan in a sheet metal nut, that has about 2mm around the plug. Drill it out and it disappears, and there is nothing to rethread!!!! Now you are fukced and have to probably pull the engine. All at you own cost. Keyboard hero’s.
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I had this situation too! Quick lube place stripped oil drain thread and put in one of those rubber plug to hold the oil. When I found out about it I went back to them and they just simply denied that they did that. Lesson learnt, never to bring your vehicle to those chain auto service places!
They always strip the drain plug and they deny it. Then to add insult to injury they tell you that they can fix it for a million dollars.
How does this happen exactly? Impact/air rattler on the drain bolt? There must be some consumer law where they'd have to pay for a replacement pan; I would hope, anyway.
MattExzy
No idea how they do what they do but my guess is that they never learned to learn. Sure that aren’t “paid enough” but they earned it. It will be difficult to prove that they broke stuff unless you are right there catch them: they won’t mind telling you it was broken to begin with.
@@MattExzy Hit the nail on the head. Or the drainplug on the head. impact wrenches to remove and reinstall drain plugs. You'd think there would be consumer protection. but my guess if you chose them so you are liable. but their insurance is liable too. They always try to get out of their mistakes. Oftentimes with the stripped plugs.
Once you leave the premises, they can deny everything! How many customers check the drain plugs before leaving? - none!
Am I the only one that loves how he says “Friend” instead of “Friends”, like he’s talking specifically to us but in a singular way like he knows us? I love that! Keeps me coming back!
I’ve never heard of those repair kits or seen anything like that on-line but I bet Jiffy-Lube keeps a whole bin of them in their shops.
I think you're exactly correct, that is a part that they have manufactured for themselves for when this happens.
They can do a quick fix and the customer would never know the difference.
In their defense a little bit, it can happen to them even if they did not cause the damage. if you've been taking your car to some other place and they've been putting way too much torque on that drain bolt. You take it to another shop and it can strip even when you're just removing the bolt . This happened to me on my own car I bought it used, and I do all my own maintenance. I had noticed that as you remove the drain bolt about halfway out it would get difficult to turn . eventually it stripped the threads and I had to get a new oil pan which was 50 bucks. So my point is it's not always the shop's fault that ends up having to do the repair
kens97sto171 Spot on, we call these piggy back plugs, hold a 19 on the big part.. crack the small with an eleven and let the oil drip out... not that hard
@@kens97sto171 This is true. In my younger years, I would take my car to Firestone for their $14.95 oil special. About the second or third time they knew I wasn't going for their "dangerous" bushing scare where they couldn't even change a control arm and needed to keep my car for three days!! And then they knew I knew better and the gorilla was trying to lean in his whole body weight AND double wrench that sucker WITH ME STANDING THERE! You better bet I almost blew a gasket because I yelled immediately for him to stop. He didn't argue. He knew I knew. Brazen and bold these guys are. Liars. Right in front of you lying to your face liars. I made him loosen it so the next person who removed it tht threads wouldn't come out with the plug. Now, I do want to add, just retap the hole, flush out the shavings with whatever fluid that's compatible. Not oil, waste, and too thick. Maybe kerosene or a mix of the two. A little oil for any shavings to grab onto. Luckily you have the skill and tools to change the pan.
@@LAactor
Yeah you're absolutely correct. Unfortunately even dealership mechanics are often incompetent at this point.
Yeah I could have chased the threads except that it had actually ripped the threads out of the pan so there wasn't really anything left for the bolt to get into it wouldn't even thread back in at all because it tore the threads out all the way to the end of the nut insert. The new pan was available locally it was $45
12, 10 mm bolts and a little screwdriver to pry the pan away from the engine block period it was stuck on there pretty good with whatever that factory RTV was the white stuff that's sort of half RTV and glue.
I thought about getting one of those ValvoMax oil drain valve systems. They have a nice backup and redundancy system to prevent leaks. Unfortunately in my car the angle and location of the drain hole would make it actually hang below the k-member. So if I ever dragged a curb or ran over something it could rip it out of the oil pan. It's a quality made product however so if you have a vehicle with a oil drain hole that's higher up they're pretty damn nice. They're made out of brass you thread them into the oil drain hole and then there's a threaded on cap that goes over the top so even if the internal valve fails the external cap would prevent it from leaking. There's a secondary part that you use to get the oil out of the car period so you unthread the cover cap and then thread in this secondary piece it trips the internal valve and dumps the oil and it even has a hose attached to it if you want to get it into a bucket or something without spraying around. About 30 bucks or so.
@Junior Mudd
That would hold it.. I'm sure.
Surprised some quick lube place hasn't done that.
I don't get it people buy expensive vehicles yet when it comes to maintenance they always look for a cheaper alternative. Awesome channel 👍
I know. Who takes a Lexus just anywhere for maintenance?! Now the idiot needs a new oil pan.
Well, a used Lexus is cheap. Mine cost $13,000. Still, I don't take it any old place for an oil change. But not the dealer either--too expensive.
Mucho idiotas
You are correct and I don't understand why they do either
@@jamesnasium4035 if it were me and I bought the car cheap used I'd do it myself
If you want your drainplug stripped just take it to Jiffy Lube or another fast lube joint.
@Lars that is correct your better off doing things yourself at least you know what will happen how the hell did they break those clips there made out of strong plastic
This, among other reasons, is why I change my own oil.
A friend had his oil changed at one of these places. His oil filter fell off and he lost all his oil. The quicky lube joint of course denied it was their fault and said he must have hit something. Luckily the filter fell into a shroud below the oil pan. I asked him for the brand and number on the filter. It was a brand not normally sold at retail and a quick search on the manufacturers website indicated it was for a Hyundai, not my friends Ford Focus. I told him to take pictures of the filter, and take it back to the quicky lube joint, and that he had them dead to rights. They ended up paying for the engine replacement.
Also, you never know what type or grade of oil they are using, they probably don't know or care. With modern engines requiring synthetic oil and specific weights of oil , you are really rolling the dice going to those places. Learn to change your own oil or seek out a reputable shop.
@Lars They pay these guys Burger King level wages, and they get what they pay for.
@@genoaoak ya sure a day or a few hrs is nothing you could catch a bus train or people could get a lift to wherever they needed to go while the car is getting fixed there's no need to be chancing bringing the car to these sketchy places and anyway oil is not that hard to change even on a German car it's quite simple
@@genoaoak You also don't know if it's recycled or bulk oil either. Cheap burning just barely passsing spec filtered oil. Oil is cheap. One time someon tried to con me and say oil is expensive! Tell them you're getting ripped off if you think oil is expensive. $15 at walmart or $25 for full synthetic.
I think this is a cheap fix for damaged (stripped) oil pan, I used it once on my Corolla's damaged oil drain and it worked fine.It's made by Dorman and sold at Autozone and Ebay as well. It's called a piggyback oil drain plug
BINGO
Just get a new oil pan and be done with it in my opinion 👍🏻
Remember drain plugs like that in the 60's and 70's , We would wrap cotton string around the plug soak it with Permatex no.3 then thread it in. Showing my age and old school fixes.
That is OLD old school!!! Who now even knows about threading a bolt!!?? Unheard of! You guys were the best.
Fords in the 70’s were the worst! The oil pans had a thin piece welded to the pan and threaded to accept the plug, and it didn’t take much effort at all to strip them! I still have a container of 1/2-0, and 1/2-1 oversized plugs that would cut new threads, a lot like the base plug in this video! This brought back a lot of memories!
You are a great mechanic! I wish I lived close to you.
Peter, that plug I ordered from internet and is a Dorman product called Oil-Tite. It comes in different sizes as mine is an M14-1.50, item #65229 for a 2010 Honda Accord. Have not used it yet as I still have some threads on the pan and was able to fix with original plug and some RTV black. To date no leaks. Appreciate your honesty in trying to save the customer some money. I was quoted $600.00 to replace my oil pan. Keep up the great videos.
Peter, just keep plugging along! Love this channel.
Yes Peter, A new oil pan is the answer for the next 18 years of this Lexus's life. My new outboard recently had its drain plug stripped/cross threaded by the marina and it will be properly replaced not just patched up.
My intuition is to use a copper crush washer and gasket maker for the extender. The plastic washer is too hard/rigid to deform to the pan shape for a perfect seal.
Very smart
Yep all my drain plugs on my aircraft engine have copper gaskets from the factory.
So glad I found your channel. I love watching your videos. Please continue with the longer vids.
I worked at a Ford dealership in 1981 on the lube rack. Changed oil everyday on multiple cars. Drain holes with damaged threads was VERY common. We had a kit that contained multiple sizes of self tapping drain plugs. Installed several and never once had a problem.
I've had the opposite happen to me one time at a quick lube place. The person who changed my oil didn't tighten the drain plug. The next time I needed an oil change I did it myself because the weather was warm. I was able to remove the drain plug with my fingers. I'm really glad that it didn't come loose somewhere on the road. I don't drive a lot now that I am retired, so I have all of my oil changes done at a dealership.
I'm not sure what the "proper" name is for that drain plug, but it was installed by a novice. I agree with you completely, on your repair and recommendation, for a new drain pan install. Had this been my car I would have you order the proper drain pan and once it came in, I'd schedule an engine oil and filter change. This way you could replace it all together properly. I'd also drop my vehicle off to you the day before so you could drain over night. I really enjoy your videos. I really enjoyed this one because, like you, I've never seen this drain situation. I learned something also. Again, great video and thanks for sharing! :)
I call them piggy back or oversized plug..
And then take the bill to Jiffy Lube.
LOL,... oil in the arm pits, oil in the arm pits!!!!
I love that song! I wonder if it is a classic back in the mother country!
God bless this man and his family and his business too.
Love your channel!
Fabulous Info!
JB Weld to the rescue again! There are other ways to fix this that are more aesthetically pleasing, like tapping new threads, but Peter’s time is valuable too. The only thing I would have done differently is use an aluminum washer where the plastic washer was, but still use epoxy to make double sure it doesn’t leak.
Thanks for sharing this video.
I haven't seen one of those for quite some time, but in the past they were fairly common and you could find them at the corner auto store. I wouldn't use one. A temp solution only.
I’ve seen over size plugs put in to repair the stripped out ones and they work ok.
When I used to work for a Toyota dealership part department, I had to deliver a engine oil drain pain that got stripped and cracked at a firestone tire shop. They hired a eighteen old pothead kid to change oil and stuff and the kid must have zoned out while he was tightening the drain plug nut. Those toyota drain pan sure do cost a lot, but the tire shop did agree to pay after the lady made fuss about it.
Their shops are so shady! It's all about writing up repair tickets. One time as a kid, they gave me an estimate of double the value of the car at least! And tried to scare a young kid into not driving it as it was "dangerous."
I've repaired plugs like this. Weld a half coupling 1/2 or 3/8 NPT to the pan then screw a plug right into it permanently fixed. Costing a couple of dollars.
Could this be fixed by tapping out the stripped hole to the next oversize and then replacing the drain plug with an oversize plug? Seems like a 15 minute job. Any opinions?
I am no mechanic, but it seems that would work, at least for a while.
Yeah I think that works well if done correctly
Never ever say 15 minutes job before you get started
Ya that's it that's what I was thinking of be way easier
David: yes, your solution is much better. Just use an oversized self taping drain plug like the Dorman 090-174. Easy to use and a permanent solution.
I love using a Fumoto valve and then less chance of stripping any threads and you don’t need a wrench after it’s installed.
The proper way to fix that pan is with a TIME-SERT kit.
I Was at Autozone five months ago and brought a couple of ecoplugs $9.99 for my vehicles including the magnetic removal tool $9.99not only did ecoplug resolve my stripped oil pan problem on one vehicle on my other I installed it to make changing my oil better.I can literally drain my oil and reinstall the ecoplugs in a second without getting covered in oil.Word to the wise these ecoplugs have extremely strong magnets when using removal tool to remove ecoplug slide the tool off.
That is a single-oversized piggyback drain plug. It's probably a Dorman item. Someone stripped the plug, probably by using an impact wrench to tighten it. They then called a parts place, the counterman looked up the car's stock drain plug size, and picked the single-oversized that matched the original drain plug threads. It is a self-tapping drain plug that is a little larger in diameter than the original. You turn it in, and it cuts new threads. The little plug is now the part you remove to drain the oil. These piggyback drain plugs come in double-oversize as well.
I have a 99 Camry that comes with a M12-1.25 drain plug. I tried a Dorman M12-1.25 S.O(single overize) with the self taping feature. It just won’t screw in to start the cutting process. What can I do?
Welcome to California's finest work of Mickey mouse jobs!
What a nice video and a nightmare to just watch a stripped oil pan drain bolt. I have changed oil in our Aygo a few times and am always very gentle.
Could you use a thread chaser to rethread the oil pan bolt
Interesting. Is there anything stopping you from using a regular tap and possibly a new drain bolt? Maybe even if they just used proper gasket maker around it may not have leaked.
I had one shop fix the rear main seal and when installing the oil pan, stripped the block out putting the pan back. There were even bolts missing which I suspect were so stripped they didn’t bother putting back.
Get a written estimate by another shop and sue them in small claims court . It will cost them at least half a day to show up and put in a defense . Record the damage on a phone and show it in court . They ALL have a big mouth - till they get a summons to appear in court . You MUST use the 100 % correct LEGAL name if the business . It may say " Joe's " but that can be a DBA . They could be ABC Auto Repair Inc. , D/B/A " Joe's Auto Shop " .
Dorman - Single Oversized Piggybacked Oil Drain Plug with Gasket - 1/2-20" Thread
They use rubber gasket instead of the plastic washer.
it looked to me that that smaller plug, wasn't the proper length... or the threads weren't correct. It didn't seem to screw into the female part quite long enough.
The small plug is a 1/4" tapered pipe plug.It seals by the tighter it goes.
Selection of pans from Rock Auto are less than $30, plus shipping. But, of course, you have to wait at least several days until ot arrives.
I'm sure the quick lube charged them for the oil, filter and labor too. What a deal.
Looks like a Needa piggy-back oil drain plug Part # 65228 (Advance Auto Parts). I think it possibly had the wrong gasket for sealing to the pan (or the whole thing just wasn't put in correctly) and besides, and I don't think the gasket you found down in the throat of that big nut should be where it was but rather, the picture of the part shows that gasket right at the top of the insert's threads.
at 8:57 and 9:01 you can see where the repair plug only partially made contact with the nylon washer, and not a full 360 degrees. My bet is the repair plug wasn't threaded in square to the hole.
I've worked on these before. Jiffy lube victims and I did a Time-Sert repair then all good.
These places are incompetent ! They stripped my drain plug.
I am a female and can do basic maintenance on my vehicle and know lefty loosey, righty tighty. After that I went back to changing my own oil again.
I have never had any problems since.
Never go to oil change shops !
Never !
Ask Jiffy-Lube to show you the four foot breaker bar they use to properly strip drain plugs.
Yes, this time oil won't leak but there is a good possibility of ripping out that adapter, driving over a big rock or curb.
I would replace that oil pain next time.
I have the same problem now on a lexus. the oil pan stripped threads. The correct plug for that is m12. I am thinking to buy a M12 piggyback plug for it. When I looked at the old plug that came out had a spring like coil on the thread. what should I do now?
It bettet get a new oil pan, so do not waste time, do not save few pennies in the short term and cost dollars for a long term.
...and this is why I always change my own oil!
Hello, can you make a video about best first cars after driving school please? Can you include some European market cars please?
It is supposed to be stamped SO for single oversized. It is also called a piggyback drain plug. Dorman makes them.
Replace that nylon washer with an aluminum crush washer. Torque it to 25 ft-lbs.
Those are called a piggy back drain plug. They are used to fix stripped out drain plugs. I would only leave it as a temporary repair.
People are saying put in an oversized or self tapping plug in instead saying it's permanent. Say if someone just doesn't have the money to repair and change a pan.
I worked at napa.they are called over size drain plug repair
It's a cheap knock off version of a Fumoto drain valve.
It happened to me with jiffy lube 10 years ago. I didnt go back there.
Let me guess another quick change destroyed the oil pan bolt by using air hammer to tightening it up or breaker bar
I wonder if a toyota oil plug crush washer would have sealed the deal?
it's a Dorman 65229 AutoGrade Oil Drain Plug
Dorman quality 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Dorman 65229 Front Oil Drain Plug Piggyback M14-1.50 14mm they have different sizes..
It's called a "piggy back plug" it is often used when a lube shop finds that the threads are stripped, but the customer will not pay for a proper repair.
Yeah that 11 millimeter is a oil drain plug repair I saw one of those 45 years ago at a NAPA store
The worst part of that thing is the way it hangs down, If it gets knocked off by driving over something the engine oil could be gone in seconds. I wonder if a simple M12X1.25 drain bolt and thread sealer could have be used instead, giving a lower profile. You don't need the self taping part, the threads are already cut, and a regular bolt may seal better because it is not tapered for self tapping.
This is before they put the oversized piggyback in or as it is now? Because now after it's tapped, it's slightly larger than that original plug so you'd have to use rtv sealant or gasket maker every single time.
In some cases new oil pan can be a rarity. Oil Pain Thread Repair kit is good solution here. Kit contains oversized plugs and thread cutters. m13x1.25 instead of m12x1.25. I would argue that it would be a permanent fix.
Did you consider welding it to the pan?
I have one of those self tapping gizmos. It's made by DORMAN. I think it's called a piggyback, single oversized and simple.
M12-1.25 S.O* I haven't used it yet and maybe now I won't.
The part is called a piggyback single oversized
Oil in the arm pit. I feel your pain brother. Everyday!
You ever try tying a shop towel somewhere between where the oil hits your arm and the pit? Or maybe a fabric band just for oil changes.
What do you think of fumoto drain plugs?
I wonder if all the oil junk would come out or get caught by the lip of the end of the plug. Like in this video more oil came out after he took out the big plug that would sit above the lowest point of the pan.
Is it a 1jz inside?
Good fix though.
Humm that looks like it was only partially installed. The repair part should have had a flare to prevent removal. My guess is that step requires the pan to be removed to remove the flare tool. And that washer is basically a piece of nylon or Teflon plastic.
just tap 1/2 NDP and put a little release valve can hold 10000 PSI. I have a lot , hahaha 😂
Be nice to add to the transmission pan
helicoil will help for sure!
When taking you car to these oil lube shops they often over torque when putting the plug back on guaranteeing not only no oil leaks but creating difficulty in removing the plug if you decide to change your own oil the next time so you will take it back to them. I found this out when doing my wife's and kid's cars when I finally had time to change the oil myself. Avoid these cheap lube places. Go to a real mechanic if you want to pay someone.
Looks like a oversize drain plug. Those sometime work. People do come in with stripped oil drain plugs.
Some teflone tape would also fix it.
Yo
Ok question. An oem replacement pan is 50$ and 12 bolts, new gasket included. Why jb welding it as opposed to just pulling the pan.
He said it wasn't available. Have to order.
It is a oilplug repair kit from Laser Tools # 5226
If you have never seen one of these you must have never been inside an auto parts store or looked at the Dorman catalog...and That would have held if you replaced that nylon washer with an O ring...You need to hire me to order all of your impossible to obtain parts like that oil pan and that never seen before Dorman oil pan plug!
What is this your first day?
Did you say $90.00 for a half of an hour’s labor? That’s more then what the Toyota Dealership will charge. Cha-Ching!
Are you asking us?
Back in the seventies I had a friend who is a stoner he forgot to tighten the oil plug when he worked at a oil change place eventually the plug fell out they burned up the motor and sued the service station I think the guy's name was Jim 😂😂😂😋😋
Another Pep Boys oil change!!
Ok
I found what looks to be the aftermarket part you were sharing with your www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-65229
New oil pan by Dorman should work or use teflon tape on threads with rubber washer. That's why I do my own oil changes. Can't even get tires balanced w/o incompetent techs using impact wrench on lugs. Just lazy. Torque specs for my Toyota 76 ft lbs. Joker at garage says we do all vehicles @100ft lbs. Not my car. SMDH.🤨
where are you originally from, are you German?
Name names! "Quickie lube" not sufficient. Name names!
All Quick lubes regardless of names
Skip first 7 minutes
Purchase an ecoplug at Autozone for $9.99 problem solved and best way to change oil!
Just replace the oil pan,and easy 30 minute job,under $100.
th-cam.com/video/f1f-i8NxnHY/w-d-xo.html this is the plug kit.
Im underneath 30 oil changes a day, these come in handy sometimes... Cant tell you how many times you take the plug out, starts coming out tight.. go to put it back in and it keeps spinning lol Fucking hate fixing other morons work
You act like you found something off the space shuttle, and criticize it without having any knowledge. These have been around for 40+ years, and work great with the right gasket. Russians used one where you drilled a smaller plug into the stripped plug and tapped it, and then welded it to the pan. Also worked great. You can tell in the comments who has never had a pan off. Lots have the threads in the pan in a sheet metal nut, that has about 2mm around the plug. Drill it out and it disappears, and there is nothing to rethread!!!! Now you are fukced and have to probably pull the engine. All at you own cost. Keyboard hero’s.
Wow, what a pain in the ass
Love how this mechanic acts like hes NEVER Stripped a bolt. Man be honest at least.