Thanks for posting this, I’m sure it will help a lot of people. When I did this a few months ago, I’d only found one video on it, and it wasn’t in English. Personally, I made the mistake when I put it back together of not using long enough rivets, so not all of them formed on the backside correctly. So, lesson learned there, had to go back and drill those out and replace with longer ones. The other thing I would mention is that I wanted to keep that mesh cylinder piece on, so I cut the weld from the inside. It’s more labor intensive that way, but I was happy with it.
@@disciplemike6477 I was in the same boat when I was looking for a video to show me how to do it. I couldn't find one out there. The only one I found was just a video where it showed you what it sounds like after the fact and it only had very poor written instructions in the description. So I figured I'd just do it myself and learn as I go and share it!! I'm glad it worked out for you brother!!
@@yalid2542 it’s hard to quantify but there’s a difference. I notice it most on a warm restart. In my opinion though, it’s still not “loud”. Especially compared to say an inline four with a slip on or full system. But a little deeper and certainly more noticeable at all RPMs. Certainly an improvement.
@@yalid2542 it was a noticeable enough that everyone I ride with perked their ears up when I fired it's up with out me telling them I removed it. They said, "Dude, what do you do to your exhaust, its sounds really good and deep". In my opinion is worth doing 100%.
I've been wanting to do this for a while and saw several sites that offered "instructions", but none of them were very good and were very basic. I did this today and the bike sounds so much better and deeper (my opinion). The OEM 2024 Aprilia RS660 Extrema one lacked a little. It's like it make it sound like a racing car exhaust (Don't know how to explain it). Much deeper and a bit louder. I really like it. I have a Yamaha FJR 1300 ES with dual Two Brothers exhausts that sound amazing. This isn't as loud (only one exhaust), but it's probably close to the Two Brothers if my FJR only had one. This video at least helped me understand the different steps they were talking about in forums and what to expect once I got it open. However, there are a lot of caveats and I know why people don't really want to do this. I broke 2 drill bits and didn't have an electric rivet gun which made things extremely difficult. I do have a really nice Dremel with metal cutting bits and it make an extremely clean cut to remove that DB killer. Things to consider ----------------------------------- 1) It's not too hard to remove the exhaust once you remove the bolt (on the foot peg) and remove the spring holding it on. I did have to wiggle and use a soft mallet to help me get it off. 2) Stainless steel rivets are used. If you have a hand rivet gun, it's going to be tough. I ended up positioning my exhaust next to a table and used my full body weight just to get the rivets put back in. 3) If you know how to remove rivets, you may have better luck. I learned the hard way as I broke 2 drill bits (3/16"). There is room to punch the "nail" in the rivet down into the exhaust. This will make it easier to drill out. Once you get it down far enough, you can drill and maybe wiggle a little bit side to side until the head of the rivet comes off or loose. Then you can use a screwdriver or something to punch out the bottom part of the rivet. It will fall into the exhaust, so you better be ready to move forward and don't give up. You can't get it out without removing the end cap. 4) Using a drill may heat up the carbon fiber around the rivets. This will smell, but more importantly, it will melt the resin holding it together. This made my inside metal parts stick to the carbon fiber in certain places by the rivets. I had to use a screwdriver to separate the carbon fiber from the steel in those spots because I couldn't hammer it out. It was sort of "glued". Once I got that done, it popped right out. 5) A Dremel tool with a metal cutting wheel cuts it like butter. It was a very clean cut and I didn't even have to grind any of it down afterwards. 6) When putting the rivets back, be careful. My last rivet was loose when I put it in the hole and the nail part fell into the exhaust. I had already spent a lot of time getting it back together. I was able to get it out by wedging 2 screwdrivers between the carbon fiber and the metal part of the exhaust to give it enough room where I could grab it and pull it out. If you want the exhaust to be much deeper and a bit louder, this is the way. You don't gain any horsepower or anything because it still has a cat. If you want more horsepower, you will have to replace the entire exhaust with one without a cat. It's on my list, but I've already done so much more to the bike (new spockets, Gabro Racing stacks, Sprint Filter, reprogamming with UpMap, etc.) and it is much faster and way more responsive now already. To me, it was worth it even though I thought about punching a lot of stuff during the process.
@@irkdhesa I hold hardly agree that it made my bike sound a hundred times better!!! It definitely was worth a little bit of a headache. As far as the process to remove the OEM rivets. I never had a problem with any of my 3/16 metal drill bits braking. However when I originally started, I was using 1/8 metal drill bit and then went up to a 9/64 which, to me, made the process a bit of a pain. Once I went to my local hardware store and picked up (2) 3/16 Drill bits it helped a lot. Getting some of the rivets out once you punch through with the drill bit was a bit of a pain at times. When it came to putting in the new rivets, I used a one-handed rivet gun to set the rivet or get the rivet halfway set. Then I used a two-handed rivet gun that looks similar to a pair of bolt cutters. That allowed me to really squeeze and eventually set and break the rivet off. In the video you seen where I used a aluminum 1/4 inch rivet, that was because I accidentally bored out the hole and made it too big for the 3/16 rivets. This was because I was using a smaller drill bit and trying to waller it out. This to me was by far the most challenging part of this process. There was a few times where I was trying to set a new rivet in the hole and for whatever reason my rivet would not set properly and would fall into exhaust therefore I would have to redrill the rivets that I had already set. But again, with that 3/16 drill bit that i had, it was fairly quick and simple for me. Again this was my first time doing it and there was no videos on how to remove it. All I seen was a bunch of random post that was kind of all over the place and none of it ended up actually applying to my bike. I'm definitely confident that if I were to do this all over again it will be fairly simple. Regardless I'm glad that you did it and you're happy with the results because I definitely was!!! It was totally worth it. Thanks for watching I'm glad I can help out a little bit. Cheers mate 🍻
Just performed the rip of the DB Killer - Thanks so much for the awesome walk-through. Tapping out the DB killer assembly took some hard hits but finally came out, cut at the weld was super easy. Sounds so much better, have you de-catted yours? Thinking about doing this Also for others, the link to the Amazon rivets was spot on and bought a 2 handed rivet gun from Harbor Freight for 25$ to complete the job.
@@ariels9885 I did not decat mine because that would require a tune/flash the ECU. Unfortunately that would void your warranty however, I do know some individuals who flash it back to OEM map before they get service done or have to take it in. Once it's out of the shop they reinstall the racing map...
Just did mine. Thanks for the video! Was pretty easy. Wuestion though. Are you running an Upmap? If so, what tune are you using with this setup? I figure its still pretty restricted with the cat in place but must flow at least a little better now.
@@913outdoors No I didn't tune mine. I thought about it at first but after all the research I did a tune wasn't needed. Also a little sketched out because I didn't want to void the warranty. I'm glad the process is simple for you man, enjoy brother! 🍻
@@dutch_martyr are you talking about the fiberglass that's behind the mesh? If so, I'm not sure if that's a sort of protector to keep some of the heat off of the carbon fiber. I have it ran across anyone that's done that either if this is what you're talking about
@@frenchieewoo3355 no, It won't affect your warranty because this mod is not affecting emissions. Now if you were to remove the catalytic converter then yes it would void the warrants. The baffle/DB killer is nothing but a noise damper so you're good to go!
@@MegaTrotz Make sure you get a rivet gun that's got a strong enough bite to snap the rivets. I used a one-handed one to get the ribbit almost set and then I use my two-handed pair to Cut it off
@@FreakishlyUNeek Perfect. I work at a car dealership I'm sure we have some good ones there. I am just going to take off the "slip on" part and bring it in the shop with me tomorrow
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Excited to do this on mine today! Super grateful for the detailed video
@@BluNote98 thanks brother, Make sure you check out the description for I also detailed in writing and don't hesitate to ask questions....
Thanks for posting this, I’m sure it will help a lot of people. When I did this a few months ago, I’d only found one video on it, and it wasn’t in English. Personally, I made the mistake when I put it back together of not using long enough rivets, so not all of them formed on the backside correctly. So, lesson learned there, had to go back and drill those out and replace with longer ones. The other thing I would mention is that I wanted to keep that mesh cylinder piece on, so I cut the weld from the inside. It’s more labor intensive that way, but I was happy with it.
@@disciplemike6477 I was in the same boat when I was looking for a video to show me how to do it. I couldn't find one out there. The only one I found was just a video where it showed you what it sounds like after the fact and it only had very poor written instructions in the description. So I figured I'd just do it myself and learn as I go and share it!! I'm glad it worked out for you brother!!
Was there a noticeable difference in sound after this process? It’s hard to tell from the video.
@@yalid2542 it’s hard to quantify but there’s a difference. I notice it most on a warm restart. In my opinion though, it’s still not “loud”. Especially compared to say an inline four with a slip on or full system. But a little deeper and certainly more noticeable at all RPMs. Certainly an improvement.
@@yalid2542 it was a noticeable enough that everyone I ride with perked their ears up when I fired it's up with out me telling them I removed it. They said, "Dude, what do you do to your exhaust, its sounds really good and deep". In my opinion is worth doing 100%.
I came from the group to check the sound of your Machine and let me tell you that this thing sounds amazing
@@Saidf430 thank you, the video doesn't do it justice. The growl is so much deeper now.... Really brought the bike alive... Thanks for watching!!
Damn, exactly what I was looking at doing on my Extreama! Thanks Man!
@@ariels9885 your welcome brother!! Any questions I'll be glad to help my man!!
I've been wanting to do this for a while and saw several sites that offered "instructions", but none of them were very good and were very basic.
I did this today and the bike sounds so much better and deeper (my opinion). The OEM 2024 Aprilia RS660 Extrema one lacked a little. It's like it make it sound like a racing car exhaust (Don't know how to explain it). Much deeper and a bit louder. I really like it.
I have a Yamaha FJR 1300 ES with dual Two Brothers exhausts that sound amazing. This isn't as loud (only one exhaust), but it's probably close to the Two Brothers if my FJR only had one.
This video at least helped me understand the different steps they were talking about in forums and what to expect once I got it open. However, there are a lot of caveats and I know why people don't really want to do this. I broke 2 drill bits and didn't have an electric rivet gun which made things extremely difficult. I do have a really nice Dremel with metal cutting bits and it make an extremely clean cut to remove that DB killer.
Things to consider
-----------------------------------
1) It's not too hard to remove the exhaust once you remove the bolt (on the foot peg) and remove the spring holding it on. I did have to wiggle and use a soft mallet to help me get it off.
2) Stainless steel rivets are used. If you have a hand rivet gun, it's going to be tough. I ended up positioning my exhaust next to a table and used my full body weight just to get the rivets put back in.
3) If you know how to remove rivets, you may have better luck. I learned the hard way as I broke 2 drill bits (3/16"). There is room to punch the "nail" in the rivet down into the exhaust. This will make it easier to drill out. Once you get it down far enough, you can drill and maybe wiggle a little bit side to side until the head of the rivet comes off or loose. Then you can use a screwdriver or something to punch out the bottom part of the rivet. It will fall into the exhaust, so you better be ready to move forward and don't give up. You can't get it out without removing the end cap.
4) Using a drill may heat up the carbon fiber around the rivets. This will smell, but more importantly, it will melt the resin holding it together. This made my inside metal parts stick to the carbon fiber in certain places by the rivets. I had to use a screwdriver to separate the carbon fiber from the steel in those spots because I couldn't hammer it out. It was sort of "glued". Once I got that done, it popped right out.
5) A Dremel tool with a metal cutting wheel cuts it like butter. It was a very clean cut and I didn't even have to grind any of it down afterwards.
6) When putting the rivets back, be careful. My last rivet was loose when I put it in the hole and the nail part fell into the exhaust. I had already spent a lot of time getting it back together. I was able to get it out by wedging 2 screwdrivers between the carbon fiber and the metal part of the exhaust to give it enough room where I could grab it and pull it out.
If you want the exhaust to be much deeper and a bit louder, this is the way. You don't gain any horsepower or anything because it still has a cat. If you want more horsepower, you will have to replace the entire exhaust with one without a cat. It's on my list, but I've already done so much more to the bike (new spockets, Gabro Racing stacks, Sprint Filter, reprogamming with UpMap, etc.) and it is much faster and way more responsive now already.
To me, it was worth it even though I thought about punching a lot of stuff during the process.
@@irkdhesa I hold hardly agree that it made my bike sound a hundred times better!!! It definitely was worth a little bit of a headache.
As far as the process to remove the OEM rivets. I never had a problem with any of my 3/16 metal drill bits braking. However when I originally started, I was using 1/8 metal drill bit and then went up to a 9/64 which, to me, made the process a bit of a pain.
Once I went to my local hardware store and picked up (2) 3/16 Drill bits it helped a lot. Getting some of the rivets out once you punch through with the drill bit was a bit of a pain at times.
When it came to putting in the new rivets, I used a one-handed rivet gun to set the rivet or get the rivet halfway set. Then I used a two-handed rivet gun that looks similar to a pair of bolt cutters. That allowed me to really squeeze and eventually set and break the rivet off.
In the video you seen where I used a aluminum 1/4 inch rivet, that was because I accidentally bored out the hole and made it too big for the 3/16 rivets. This was because I was using a smaller drill bit and trying to waller it out. This to me was by far the most challenging part of this process. There was a few times where I was trying to set a new rivet in the hole and for whatever reason my rivet would not set properly and would fall into exhaust therefore I would have to redrill the rivets that I had already set. But again, with that 3/16 drill bit that i had, it was fairly quick and simple for me.
Again this was my first time doing it and there was no videos on how to remove it. All I seen was a bunch of random post that was kind of all over the place and none of it ended up actually applying to my bike. I'm definitely confident that if I were to do this all over again it will be fairly simple.
Regardless I'm glad that you did it and you're happy with the results because I definitely was!!! It was totally worth it. Thanks for watching I'm glad I can help out a little bit. Cheers mate 🍻
Just performed the rip of the DB Killer - Thanks so much for the awesome walk-through. Tapping out the DB killer assembly took some hard hits but finally came out, cut at the weld was super easy. Sounds so much better, have you de-catted yours? Thinking about doing this
Also for others, the link to the Amazon rivets was spot on and bought a 2 handed rivet gun from Harbor Freight for 25$ to complete the job.
@@ariels9885 I did not decat mine because that would require a tune/flash the ECU. Unfortunately that would void your warranty however, I do know some individuals who flash it back to OEM map before they get service done or have to take it in. Once it's out of the shop they reinstall the racing map...
@@ariels9885 I'm glad it worked out for you though! Enjoy brother!!!
I removed the DB killer on mine as well as the silencer and it sounds a lot louder.
Just did mine. Thanks for the video! Was pretty easy. Wuestion though. Are you running an Upmap? If so, what tune are you using with this setup? I figure its still pretty restricted with the cat in place but must flow at least a little better now.
@@913outdoors No I didn't tune mine. I thought about it at first but after all the research I did a tune wasn't needed. Also a little sketched out because I didn't want to void the warranty.
I'm glad the process is simple for you man, enjoy brother! 🍻
I really wants to do this on mine
@@Didiplouf12 definitely with it man... Any questions ask brother!! The video doesn't do it Justice, the growl is so much deeper...
Quick question, there's a bunch of fiberglass packing in the slip on. Is it okay to remove all of it? I want the exhaust to be loud
@@dutch_martyr are you talking about the fiberglass that's behind the mesh? If so, I'm not sure if that's a sort of protector to keep some of the heat off of the carbon fiber. I have it ran across anyone that's done that either if this is what you're talking about
@FreakishlyUNeek yeah it's like, white fiberglass packing. I want to take it out but good point, it might be there to protect the carbon fiber
Is the bike louder ? I understand the growl is deeper but is it a lot louder ?
@@balbinomercado7602 yeah, everyone who heard me fire it up noticed the difference immediately without knowing I removed the DB killer...
Will doing this affect warranty if anything occurs?
@@frenchieewoo3355 no, It won't affect your warranty because this mod is not affecting emissions. Now if you were to remove the catalytic converter then yes it would void the warrants. The baffle/DB killer is nothing but a noise damper so you're good to go!
Total noob questions but what size rivets did you use? never worked with them before
@@komoore87 not a noob question brother, I added a 3/16 stainless steel rivet. Got it from Amazon
@@FreakishlyUNeekdo you have a link to the rivets you got? Awesome video I am going to do this to mine until I get a full system and tune I want
@@MegaTrotz SDTC Tech Stainless Steel Blind Rivets 3/16" x 3/8" (6-4) Open End Type Pop Rivet Grip Range 3/16-1/4 inch (50 pack)
a.co/d/8Ac2p65
@@MegaTrotz Make sure you get a rivet gun that's got a strong enough bite to snap the rivets. I used a one-handed one to get the ribbit almost set and then I use my two-handed pair to Cut it off
@@FreakishlyUNeek Perfect. I work at a car dealership I'm sure we have some good ones there. I am just going to take off the "slip on" part and bring it in the shop with me tomorrow