Suggestion, push the stock that is between the fence and the blade. It's just a matter of time before you will experience kick-back from the binding between the blade and fence.
Great video!, can you redo the kiwiflip tutorial you made 4 years ago? Im having trouble with it, my heel keeps lifting the board up, i actually learned a new way to pickup my board with this, thank you!
Thank you so much for making this video bro! This help me a lot. I’m about to start my career making a skateboard here in the Philippines. Im now starting investing on the machine. I hope i can get an advice from u on how to make a strong skateboard
When you make your mold, is there a lot of fluctuation between the top and bottom mold. I'm just wondering if its easier to make one program and then just mirror that program or if there needs to be a slight difference to get the molds to press properly. I'm pressing a few boards at a time, and don't want a lot of fluctuation between the top and bottom board. (I get if I want every board to be exactly the same every time I should only press one board but nobodys got time for that. I'm just wondering how to get as close as possible.)
Hmm, I'm not super familiar with mountain boards, though I think most I've seen have some camber (upward bow in the middle of the deck), which isn't incorporated into SK8CAD at this time. However, if you don't need camber, I don't see why this wouldn't work! (If you do need a mold design and/or mold with camber, you can reach shoot me an email at www.opensourceboards.com for a quote for CAD files and/or a mold.)
Excellent video. How long was the 3D machining time? Would it have taken a lot less time if you had instead sliced your mold model vertically in 3/4 inch slices and then just perimeter cut each slice, then just glue up the already finished slices? To prevent slipping during glue up, drill alignment holes on each slice (on the cnc) to insert wooden dowels.
Thank you! I don't recall exactly how long this took, but total machine time might have been something like 10-20 minutes for surfacing each face, then maybe 1.5 hours for the male mold and 3-ish hours for the female mold? I believe these can be improved with more efficient tool selection on my part, though. Regarding your slicing method: I have been evaluating this, however, it does take more hands-on time in the design stage. I think these would allow you to eliminate the rough cut and go straight to the finishing cut, and make your wood supply go a little further (you could nest the male and female slices together when cutting them out). I haven't developed a system to automate and quicken the slicing process yet, so the labor cost doesn't make this as appealing for my setup at this time. However, for someone else, the method you describe may make way more sense!
I'm using a 1/2" diameter two flute straight bit for roughing and 1/2" diameter round nose bit for finishing, but I think end mills would be better suited than these router bits - the CNC I use has limited z-travel, and I haven't found a 1/2" diameter end mill short enough to fit above the stock material, so that's why I use these.
when you design the mold, do you compensate for the thickness of the deck or design it with a thin surface where the male and female surfaces are touching?
Yes, I offset the surfaces - you'll likely have pressing issues if there's no offset (I've heard people can get away with it with mellower boards). Check out this more recent video on designing/making molds: th-cam.com/video/hEzCSCkYcOU/w-d-xo.html and also my skateboard mold design guide: sk8cad.com/user-guide.html (includes explanation of surface offset and why it's important).
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
finally someone showing this process, thank you.
can I buy your board molder? I'm from Philippines I need to learn and make a business here in Philippines
Suggestion, push the stock that is between the fence and the blade. It's just a matter of time before you will experience kick-back from the binding between the blade and fence.
very informative..tq..shout out from Miri, Borneo Island
Great stuff Beau, I'd love to tackle CNC at some point!
Thanks, Chris! I'd be stoked to see what you'd make with a CNC machine.
Great video!, can you redo the kiwiflip tutorial you made 4 years ago? Im having trouble with it, my heel keeps lifting the board up, i actually learned a new way to pickup my board with this, thank you!
Thank you so much for making this video bro! This help me a lot. I’m about to start my career making a skateboard here in the Philippines. Im now starting investing on the machine. I hope i can get an advice from u on how to make a strong skateboard
Awesome! Best wishes to you and enjoy!
When you make your mold, is there a lot of fluctuation between the top and bottom mold. I'm just wondering if its easier to make one program and then just mirror that program or if there needs to be a slight difference to get the molds to press properly. I'm pressing a few boards at a time, and don't want a lot of fluctuation between the top and bottom board.
(I get if I want every board to be exactly the same every time I should only press one board but nobodys got time for that. I'm just wondering how to get as close as possible.)
Any chance for a Mountainboard option in SK8CAD? or this already a option?
Hmm, I'm not super familiar with mountain boards, though I think most I've seen have some camber (upward bow in the middle of the deck), which isn't incorporated into SK8CAD at this time. However, if you don't need camber, I don't see why this wouldn't work! (If you do need a mold design and/or mold with camber, you can reach shoot me an email at www.opensourceboards.com for a quote for CAD files and/or a mold.)
Finna buy one in a week or two
I'm searching for uncut blank decks could you may maybe point me in the right direction of a good place? Or if you maybe sell them?
Excellent video. How long was the 3D machining time? Would it have taken a lot less time if you had instead sliced your mold model vertically in 3/4 inch slices and then just perimeter cut each slice, then just glue up the already finished slices? To prevent slipping during glue up, drill alignment holes on each slice (on the cnc) to insert wooden dowels.
Thank you! I don't recall exactly how long this took, but total machine time might have been something like 10-20 minutes for surfacing each face, then maybe 1.5 hours for the male mold and 3-ish hours for the female mold? I believe these can be improved with more efficient tool selection on my part, though. Regarding your slicing method: I have been evaluating this, however, it does take more hands-on time in the design stage. I think these would allow you to eliminate the rough cut and go straight to the finishing cut, and make your wood supply go a little further (you could nest the male and female slices together when cutting them out). I haven't developed a system to automate and quicken the slicing process yet, so the labor cost doesn't make this as appealing for my setup at this time. However, for someone else, the method you describe may make way more sense!
What kind wood did you use for the mold?
Thanks for share mate, what 3d program do you use for modeling?
Also, I was just curious what types of bits you used for this process if you don't mind telling
I'm using a 1/2" diameter two flute straight bit for roughing and 1/2" diameter round nose bit for finishing, but I think end mills would be better suited than these router bits - the CNC I use has limited z-travel, and I haven't found a 1/2" diameter end mill short enough to fit above the stock material, so that's why I use these.
when you design the mold, do you compensate for the thickness of the deck or design it with a thin surface where the male and female surfaces are touching?
Yes, I offset the surfaces - you'll likely have pressing issues if there's no offset (I've heard people can get away with it with mellower boards). Check out this more recent video on designing/making molds: th-cam.com/video/hEzCSCkYcOU/w-d-xo.html and also my skateboard mold design guide: sk8cad.com/user-guide.html (includes explanation of surface offset and why it's important).
@@openSourceskateboards Thankyou so much!
You're awesome.
So, now show us how to do one by hand.
How much for you to make one for me get back to me please 🙏
Stooped