I have a printed mold now but I need a source to get another one printed from a stl file I will design with sk8cad. I have pressed a few on mine with a vacuum bag but I want the angles changed.
I see two ways the larger companies could benefit from this: fast, cheap prototyping, and custom limited edition runs. You better believe the first brand doing the latter is going to be Good Roads. Let's GO!
I've got a question, I've wondered if the thickness of the board you've made is the same as your factory made street board. I know, It also depends on the veneer thickness used, but still how do these compare?
This is amazing, a skateboard mold I think might actually be useful. I've seen some the foam molds and they look like they would fall to bits after one press. I really like how you made the grid pattern. Would most probably cost a bit but this mold could be reinforced with jb steel weld and would be really durable I think. Great content thanks for sharing.
Depending on what pressing method you use the foam molds actually hold up for at least a few rounds. It's a good place to start if you're on a budget. These printed molds are more durable for sure, and the ability to modify them is what I think sets them apart from anything other than CNC wooden molds, which are quite a bit more expensive. If you're pressing a ton of the same blanks you really can't beat solid wood or concrete molds though
First of all, thank you for sharing your knowledge. I only have one question, would you feel comfortable to share from where you buy your veneer ? Sk8 4 ever ♥
would you be able to teach how to make these designs in say F3D or onshape so we can design our own geometries? the deck shape you created doesn't fit all use cases.
Hell yeah! I’ve been collecting the supplies to make my own deck! Thanks a bunch for all the rad videos man! Very inspirational! Keep up the good (roads) work brother👊
As a furniture maker/woodworker, you dont need "color to make the grain pop" and i would argue it lessens how much the grain pops. To accentuate grain, you woudld want to use a penetrating oil or finish. Matte finish Polyurethane would even make it pop more than some sort of darkening stain. Its a hot topic in the ww community, stain or not to stain. With birds eye maple or any figured grain, I personally would never stain but might use something that has a bit of a darker tinge to it like shellac or a lacquer or again poly with a very light stain combined but maple in all its forms is my favorite wood to work with lol so i may be biased. All of this would also depend on what finish you eventually plan to use to seal everything on the bottom in. Either way, i def want to get the plans and press my own board! well done on the board and press!
I wouldve sanded the bottom to at least 150 (120 for paint), then done a grain pop with a damp cloth, sand to 150 again, then apply whatever stain or finish.
@@GoodRoads My summer camp has a robotics lab with some huge printers so I’m going to print them there! I might have to cut the pieces in half but it should be an issue. I really appreciate you making the files public and open source!
Awesome 👍🏻👍🏾 I will be looking at middle of July to start doing more with the skateboard's as I've got to get some other stuff done and it's taking up my time 😞 but that's life plus after that will need to find a different job bit harder with no experience and injured But hopefully something will be available and give me time to do this 😀👍🏻
@@GoodRoads probably not a cake walk but would be fun to do. Have you tried a surfskate before? Tried one recently they are really fun. You can carve on them almost like snowboarding.
Love this way of making molds, really innovative for dit boards. One question tho, What settings would You change if You have a smaller nozzle size like the standard 0.4?
I'm going to do some experiments with this soon but I can reliably get a 0.6mm line at a 0.3mm layer height and I want to see if that works. 0.8mm might be possible too but the lines might be messier (which doesn't matter much for a mold)
I just had a look at the cad, and I gotta say I don't think its janky at all. The way you built the form might be more specific to this type of deck shape, but for the most part I'd say the way you did it makes it very approachable and easy to understand. Using the offset face tool is supposedly not as good as the offset surface tool for this application in fusion, but that's almost more of a quirk with fusion and not anything to do with jank in your modeling. My approach was to make instructions that were able to be very generally applied, but that doesn't mean its less janky.
Thanks dude. I actually think I keep running into minor issues with the offset face function which is why I still think the method you highlighted is better, even for a more simple geometry. My design works but it breaks down a bit if you modify it too heavily certain ways. But, like you said, it's really simple and pretty easy to wrap your head around so hopefully it's fairly beginner-friendly
The mold files are about 9" wide but there's no reason you couldn't stretch them out in the width direction in your slicer. If you make sure they're all scaled the same the mold should still work, the concave will just be a little more shallow
@@GoodRoads okay i ran into another question, i have a huge as curb for skating in my front yard which i used for skating… do you think if i put the curb (80kg) on top of the mold with the wood it will be enough pressure or are the method you used with the clamps makes more pressure?
I would add some clamps. The "put heavy stuff on the mold" technique works _okay_ with baltic birch builds, but you don't get great curves and I don't think it would work on its own for a veneer layup. A good rule of thumb is the more you can squeeze it the better.
The concave actually was less extreme once the blank was cut to shape. Still on the deeper side I'd say, but not as extreme as I initially thought. It feels great!
Do you have any issues with the molds wearing or crushing out? I just designed my first mold for 3D printing thanks to this video and was wondering how many pressings you get out of a mold. I see that you have been experimenting with 3D prints for a while now. Also, I didn't catch what type of filament you used for your print. Thanks!
It's rock maple veneers that are cut a little thicker than normal. You could probably use most hardwoods to make a deck if you can get sheets in the right thickness, but the normal pine and plywoods that you'd get in a home goods store will be too weak
Yeah! I actually did my infill tests with my electric press before I disassembled it for upgrades so it should definitely work. Honestly I think a spar press with an impact driver might have more clamping force and these molds survived that too
Hi Chris, Do you have an estimate cost to printing this mold? I am looking into 3D printing myself, but have no experience in the matter. Thank you for the inspiration!
That could work, it would depend on whether or not the concrete sort of bonds with the plastic. Otherwise you might end up with basically concrete ice cubes rattling around
Great video! Do you think a 3D printed mold would be strong enough to use with the vacuum bag process? Looking at my first build, and wondering if I need to go with foam, or if I can use my printer for molds.
I haven't tried it but my suspicion is yes. The spar style presses are capable of more force than the vac bags, so if the molds hold up for one they should hold up for the other. I can't say for sure without testing, but that's my guess
I just turned on ads and watched them, thanks for being so cool.
Hahahaha thanks dude! You're the man!
I was noticing how good that grain looked while you were cutting it out.
Next week: Destructive testing.
I have a printed mold now but I need a source to get another one printed from a stl file I will design with sk8cad. I have pressed a few on mine with a vacuum bag but I want the angles changed.
This really changes everything.
Which brand is going to be first to embrace this?
Roa Rockit kinda has the market covered already. The market is so small and still quite exclusive. 3D printers aren't really a commodity yet.
I see two ways the larger companies could benefit from this: fast, cheap prototyping, and custom limited edition runs. You better believe the first brand doing the latter is going to be Good Roads. Let's GO!
Thanks
I've got a question, I've wondered if the thickness of the board you've made is the same as your factory made street board. I know, It also depends on the veneer thickness used, but still how do these compare?
Mine is slightly thicker on account of the face veneers of the factory board being sanded down more, but it's not a big difference maybe a millimeter
Nice! is that a 3D printed router holder?
Yup! Hoping to have some of the jigs and the print files available for sale this week!
This is so fucking cool
Donde se compra
i don't hv a 3d printer.do you sell that has been printed? really want to DIY my own eggshape decks.
This is amazing, a skateboard mold I think might actually be useful. I've seen some the foam molds and they look like they would fall to bits after one press. I really like how you made the grid pattern. Would most probably cost a bit but this mold could be reinforced with jb steel weld and would be really durable I think. Great content thanks for sharing.
Depending on what pressing method you use the foam molds actually hold up for at least a few rounds. It's a good place to start if you're on a budget. These printed molds are more durable for sure, and the ability to modify them is what I think sets them apart from anything other than CNC wooden molds, which are quite a bit more expensive. If you're pressing a ton of the same blanks you really can't beat solid wood or concrete molds though
First of all, thank you for sharing your knowledge. I only have one question, would you feel comfortable to share from where you buy your veneer ?
Sk8 4 ever ♥
how do you get the mesh affect thing so u save plastic. im thinking of doing this myselft
It's just grid style infill with no top or bottom layers
Sick bro
would you be able to teach how to make these designs in say F3D or onshape so we can design our own geometries? the deck shape you created doesn't fit all use cases.
Have you considered selling these molds bro? I might want one🤔
I'm working on a version that will be available for purchase right now! Stay tuned!
Hell yeah! I’ve been collecting the supplies to make my own deck! Thanks a bunch for all the rad videos man! Very inspirational! Keep up the good (roads) work brother👊
As a furniture maker/woodworker, you dont need "color to make the grain pop" and i would argue it lessens how much the grain pops. To accentuate grain, you woudld want to use a penetrating oil or finish. Matte finish Polyurethane would even make it pop more than some sort of darkening stain. Its a hot topic in the ww community, stain or not to stain. With birds eye maple or any figured grain, I personally would never stain but might use something that has a bit of a darker tinge to it like shellac or a lacquer or again poly with a very light stain combined but maple in all its forms is my favorite wood to work with lol so i may be biased. All of this would also depend on what finish you eventually plan to use to seal everything on the bottom in.
Either way, i def want to get the plans and press my own board! well done on the board and press!
I wouldve sanded the bottom to at least 150 (120 for paint), then done a grain pop with a damp cloth, sand to 150 again, then apply whatever stain or finish.
Hello friend, if possible, I would like to get the file of the knots that you used, thanks.
Links dont work😢 only for the mold is working.
So can I buy one or do I have to buy a 300$ 3d printer? It might be cheaper to buy the bored if I do have to print it
Thanks mate! A super help!!!
I wish I have my own skateboard but I don't have any money
This is legit!
Thanks Chris! Once I get a bigger printer I'm so pressing my own board!
Awesome to hear, let me know how it goes!
@@GoodRoads My summer camp has a robotics lab with some huge printers so I’m going to print them there! I might have to cut the pieces in half but it should be an issue. I really appreciate you making the files public and open source!
That sounds like an awesome summer project and an awesome camp
Awesome 👍🏻👍🏾 I will be looking at middle of July to start doing more with the skateboard's as I've got to get some other stuff done and it's taking up my time 😞 but that's life plus after that will need to find a different job bit harder with no experience and injured But hopefully something will be available and give me time to do this 😀👍🏻
I put a poll out asking people's favorite skate youtuber and someone recommended your channel. This video was super sick to watch!
Dude, that's so great to hear! Thanks and thanks for stopping by!
Makes me want to build a skateboard, came out so awesome!
Dude. You build surfboards and snowboards. A skate deck would be a cake walk for you
@@GoodRoads probably not a cake walk but would be fun to do. Have you tried a surfskate before? Tried one recently they are really fun. You can carve on them almost like snowboarding.
I haven't but I'm hearing about them everywhere right now. I'm definitely going to have to give it a shot
Hi, any chance of a longboard mold?
Love this way of making molds, really innovative for dit boards. One question tho, What settings would You change if You have a smaller nozzle size like the standard 0.4?
I'm going to do some experiments with this soon but I can reliably get a 0.6mm line at a 0.3mm layer height and I want to see if that works. 0.8mm might be possible too but the lines might be messier (which doesn't matter much for a mold)
Open source where can I find it
From Brazil... Beautiful work... Thanks!
I just had a look at the cad, and I gotta say I don't think its janky at all.
The way you built the form might be more specific to this type of deck shape, but for the most part I'd say the way you did it makes it very approachable and easy to understand.
Using the offset face tool is supposedly not as good as the offset surface tool for this application in fusion, but that's almost more of a quirk with fusion and not anything to do with jank in your modeling.
My approach was to make instructions that were able to be very generally applied, but that doesn't mean its less janky.
Thanks dude. I actually think I keep running into minor issues with the offset face function which is why I still think the method you highlighted is better, even for a more simple geometry. My design works but it breaks down a bit if you modify it too heavily certain ways. But, like you said, it's really simple and pretty easy to wrap your head around so hopefully it's fairly beginner-friendly
whats the maximum width the mold can handle reasonably? want to print it out but i like a width in between 9-10 inches
greetings from europe, austria
The mold files are about 9" wide but there's no reason you couldn't stretch them out in the width direction in your slicer. If you make sure they're all scaled the same the mold should still work, the concave will just be a little more shallow
@@GoodRoads thank you so much!
@@GoodRoads okay i ran into another question, i have a huge as curb for skating in my front yard which i used for skating… do you think if i put the curb (80kg) on top of the mold with the wood it will be enough pressure or are the method you used with the clamps makes more pressure?
* sparr press
I would add some clamps. The "put heavy stuff on the mold" technique works _okay_ with baltic birch builds, but you don't get great curves and I don't think it would work on its own for a veneer layup. A good rule of thumb is the more you can squeeze it the better.
tried to download the open source but seems to only have 4 of 6 stl files...
The nose and tail are mirrored, they're the same file
how much would you sell this mold for? I want to try making my own deck.
I'm working on being able to print full sized molds right now, I'm just getting the tooling dialed in and then I should have them for sale in the shop
Yeah Chris! Awesome video!
Love your videos. Top notch.
Man, bravo. I tend to favor the higher concave boards, so this may just be added to the list of things I need to build.
The concave actually was less extreme once the blank was cut to shape. Still on the deeper side I'd say, but not as extreme as I initially thought. It feels great!
Thank you!
Do you have any issues with the molds wearing or crushing out? I just designed my first mold for 3D printing thanks to this video and was wondering how many pressings you get out of a mold. I see that you have been experimenting with 3D prints for a while now. Also, I didn't catch what type of filament you used for your print. Thanks!
I make mine with PLA and I haven't had any issues with them yet, but I'm not using a super high-tonnage press either so your mileage may vary
thanks for sharing!!!
Sick! Thanks for sharing 🔥
nice
what veneer are you using? can i use normal wood?
It's rock maple veneers that are cut a little thicker than normal. You could probably use most hardwoods to make a deck if you can get sheets in the right thickness, but the normal pine and plywoods that you'd get in a home goods store will be too weak
Hi, could you tell me where you purchase the grinding cylinder which you use at 5:35. I´m searching for a longer time... Thanks in advance.
Thanks man
🤘👍
Do you think this mold would hold up to something like your electric press ?
Yeah! I actually did my infill tests with my electric press before I disassembled it for upgrades so it should definitely work. Honestly I think a spar press with an impact driver might have more clamping force and these molds survived that too
Fantastic work as always!
This is perfect! Thanks heaps mate, can't wait to get the mould printed and press a few decks! 🤘🛹
Love to hear it! Let me know how they turn out!
Hi Chris, Do you have an estimate cost to printing this mold? I am looking into 3D printing myself, but have no experience in the matter. Thank you for the inspiration!
How long is the mold suppose to end up I had my boss print me one and it seems short so curious if something went wrong
thank you for the free files have been printing them for the past 2 days veneers in the mail!
What if you fill in the honey come of the mold with concrete to stiffen it up ?
That could work, it would depend on whether or not the concrete sort of bonds with the plastic. Otherwise you might end up with basically concrete ice cubes rattling around
@@GoodRoads spray concrete adhesive/bonding agent?
I didn't know that was a thing, that would definitely be an interesting experiment
Thanks
Great video! Do you think a 3D printed mold would be strong enough to use with the vacuum bag process? Looking at my first build, and wondering if I need to go with foam, or if I can use my printer for molds.
I haven't tried it but my suspicion is yes. The spar style presses are capable of more force than the vac bags, so if the molds hold up for one they should hold up for the other. I can't say for sure without testing, but that's my guess
@@GoodRoads perfect, thanks. Now I just have to decide whether to go with the spar press or a vac bag. Keep the great content coming!