This is why I like TH-cam, someone willing to share useful information. I was planning on using this technique using 3 ply sheets, but looking at this I'm going for veneers instead. I think in theory the veneers will shape better than using 3 ply as the press isn't fighting an already preformed sheet. Good work.
Thank you for this beautifull explanation and easy access to get creating boards. I want a very low longboard in the shape of an landyachtz evo but then a bit lower and i think i am going to make it myself now! Thank you very much!
Hey Chris I’ve been using this way of pressing for 3 deck already and it’s working great! I wanted to mark the fact that it is because of you that I’m diving in on crafting my own board!!! 🥳 and so far I’m loving this! All your videos are really cool and helpfull! Keep going! You are the best!
Totally dig this. Very cool. I skate alot and am teaching my daughter as well. Would be awesome to get into a money saving project to support our fun. 🤘👍
Awesome, nice work and great walkthrough. I tried some boards with wider wheelbase. Loved it for some things but definitely took away some pop. But I like a good shaped board. Very cool. Stay Rad Sir.
My pop isn't really developed enough for me to notice if it gets affected, at this point if it makes me feel more stable on the landings I'm all for it. That'll help my comfort level and open some doors for me
I don't skateboard... not even sure why I watched this - glad i did... that clamp is genius. Could be great for forming chair backs and bases... I guess I should say something like... sick dude? Thank you.
Always give us awesome content! love to see versus video between machine press deck compared with Hi tech foam mold 😆 like how the deck sound, flex hardness etc
The longer wheelbase helps, if you have a deck like this where there is basically one front you could even move the front truck back a bit or back to the original placement while leaving the back truck back giving you a little larger wheel base but taking the weight off the front to help with ollies
That would definitely be an easy way to find the right wheelbase for me. Honestly, I don't really feel like I mind the extra weight. I think compared to a 15lbs mountainboard it all feel light, hahaha!
I done mine after I watched this video, the results were amazing, using other kind of wood here in south america and epoxy wood resin but with the same results!
This is extremely impressive! I love how you work man, I can totally relate! I think your channel should get more attention! Keep on going and it will grow. The quality of the content is very high and extremely educational!
wow i havent attemped to make a deck since my high school days back in 2009. I remember making the mold was the hardest part but this is incredible. I have to try this some day
Hey man I'm loving the videos! I was just wondering if it's possible to vacuum press a board using your 3d printed mold, as oppose to a foam one. Keep up the great work!
Hey Chris, first let me say thanks for all your cool Videos. You really made me want to shape a first board myself. Could you tell me if poplar wood is a good / an OK choice for a longboard? Currently 4mm poplar plywood is the only wood I can get for my project. The goal is a "simple" longboard with a slight rocker. It also would be great if you could make a video about the different materials/woods used in deck building. Thanks again!
If all the plys in the plywood are poplar it should actually work okay. It might break a bit faster than a birch or maple board but it should be strong enough to ride, the softwood plywoods just don't have the same strength. I meant to do a materials series a while ago but it slipped my mind, thanks for the reminder!
@@GoodRoads Thanks for the reply! That's fine then for my first board. I don't expect it to turn out great or last forever :) One other questions. Do you think it would be possible to press a drop down board with 4 layers of 3mm (0.12") poplar wood or should I rather just try some simple rocker?
Pressing a drop deck this way would be super difficult, I would err on the side of starting with something more simple. If you wanted you could press some mellow kicktails into your board and then make yourself some wedges to de-wedge the trucks back to flat. You could get a pretty decent drop deck effect that way without having to worry as much about clamping pressure and the wood bending aggressively
Great video! I have been wondering if 3D printed forms would work, and if foam works 3D printing totally will! EDIT: ooh I see your other videos now. I even have a large format printer!
The board turned out awesome Chris. Hopefully you'll continue to do more skateboard decks and incorporating different materials. Maybe the next board can be a symmetrical board which has the same size nose and tail. Wheelbase wise for stability 15 inches seems to be great for riding bowls.
The nose and tail on this one are actually the same size, just different shapes. I can definitely do a symmetrical deck next time I visit this style board though. The wheelbase on this one is 15.75 so it does seem like right around 15 is the sweet spot Edit: I lied, I just measured and the nose is shorter
Sir, I am a laser engineer and you would love to see what I have done with skateboards. It's fun to have half million dollar machines at your disposal. Loved the content...
Hi Chris, that's for showing us how you make a deck with a foam mold and simple press. Quick question: How do you determine how tightly to screw down the press? Is it a matter of eyeballing the veneers and tightening to eliminate any visible gaps...and to see see some glue pressed out? Or is there a more precise method? Thanks again!
With a press like this? As tight as possible. As long as the foam you're using is dense enough you won't crush the mold and with this setup more pressure is better
Can you please provide a link to but some maple? I'm going crazy finding some in italy, so i might aswell buy some in the us and pay for the shipping! Thank you, great content!
@@GoodRoads It does!!! thank you so much, i was trying to find some for weeks, you're opening a whole new world for me man, for real hahaha, keep it up!
Woodworker here, when using the table saw set the blade height for each material thickness with the top of the teeth sticking above the material 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Less blade above the table means more space to move your hands around and overall safer. 2nd tip is don’t be scared to move your hands closer to the blade when pushing material through. Having your hands close to the fence when pushing creates a rotating motion with the blade and pulls the material away from the fence and towards the back of the blade. At the very least it gives you a bad quality cut and burn marks, but at most that is what causes kickback and I’ve seen it happen kicking full sheets of plywood across shops. Try to have your hand halfway between the fence and the blade and use your hand to give a slight rotating motion to the right. It helps keep the workpiece along the fence through the entire cut. As always maintain full control and only do what you are comfortable with. Otherwise great video and ideas I’ll be making a couple boards soon!
I almost got the mold ready for my first longboard press! It will be a drop down with wedged edges so hopefully the mold can handle the force. I am using PIR insulation which can take some force though. But: in this video is not mentioned that thickness of the board and the rubber sheets take some extra place in the mold. So i have to measure yet but i think you will have to lengthen the part with the loose foam pieces by 2 times thickness of the board + total thickness rubber. Then the mold will press the shape a lot firmer and more accurate i think. Can someone confirm this? Thanks for the good explanation and fact that i can use simple tools and still can press a board❤
What is the length of the board & what is the wheel base? I made a 36" deck w/ a 19" wheel base. If you ride ramp or park at all, this length of board w/that WB, you can lock in a lot of tricks because of the WB. Front & backside smith's are so much easier. I'm getting older so the longer 36" deck is real stable.
The deck is 33" with a 15.75" wheelbase. I've got a Rayne deck with similar dimensions to the one you built, it's really good for hardwheel sliding but it's a bit of a tank because of the construction: bamboo and glass. It would be interesting to try a deck that size with a more standard / lighter build
Hello sir ♥️ I have been following you for a long time and your work is great ♥️ I want to make a skeet board myself and I have everything I need but I want you to give me the marks and sizes that I will plan based on the foam
I don't have a template or anything to share but that's a really interesting idea. Definitely something i could tackle at some point, I'll add it to the to do list. In the meantime maybe take a look at sk8cad.com/ from Beau over at Open Source Skateboards, I think you can print templates from his tool? Not 100% sure on that though
Love to hear it! I think the best piece of advice I can give is go slow, be patient, and really pay attention to the details. The better you can plan everything out the better chance you'll have of getting s successful press. Oh, and don't do what I did with my resin the first time around, small batches and shallow containers!
I thought of something else: when I clamped my molds together to press the decks I didn't use spars. I would definitely use them if I tried that method again. My base wound up with an edge to edge curve and spreading the clamping force out from the sides of the mold would help get the base flatter
Do you think you'll be able to regain some accuracy in the mold with thinner EVA foam? I've seen Yaya Han branded sheets at Joann's in 24" x 40" sizes in 2 mm and 5 mm thicknesses.
So, I've stayed manty different kinds of boards. Some of the cheaper blanks I've tried are really thick and feel kind of "soggy" in the pop department. Does this method lead to those types of boards? I could hear during your ollie's a way lower pitch than your normal pro board, which makes me feel it does produce that. If it does, do you know how to press diy veneer boards and end up with the same crisp thinner result as name brand boards? Appreciate you spreading this knowledge man.
I think pressing your own decks, or getting decks pressed by a small shop, will almost always get you better results than mass produced stuff once you get the hang of doing a layup. I'd attribute the sound of my pop on this board to: it being a large deck with a deep concave, it being slightly thicker than standard just because I didn't sand the veneers down, and me riding softer wheels. To me the deck feels really snappy for how heavy it is, it's stiffer than some of the off-the-shelf boards I have. A stronger press will squeeze out more glue too, which will also help with the weight/stiffness
@@GoodRoads definitely see where you're coming from. The attention to detail when you make things yourself for yourself cannot be matched at a mass production scale. I was thinking more along the lines of pressure needed. Like In factory's they use hydraulic presses with lots of force behind them. Then again they press like 9? at a time. I just imagined it getting pressed tighter at the factory than at home. Thanks tho this is highly motivating I guess I'm gonna have to take a crack at it and see if I can make myself a dream board. Thanks for replying so fast man.
@@nameless1820 No problem dude! I haven't built one myself yet but a lot of hobbyists and small shops use presses built around 10-20t hydraulic bottle jacks. Those guys and gals are pressing up to three or four decks at a time and it's limited more by the potlife of the glue and how long the layup takes. There's some debate around how hard you want to squeeze the veneers for the best outcome but the more glue you can squeeze out the better your seams will be and the more weight you shave off the deck. Good luck with your builds! Keep me posted!
Wow. impressive. You made it look easy. just curious. what size did you end up with? I got a large shoes so wider boards feels so much better for a guy my size.Now days boards are so narrow.
No idea! "Marine" plywood is a designation that the adhesive used to glue the plys together is waterproof, what you'd really want is a plywood where all the veneers are hardwood. Some marine plys are and some aren't, you can press a board with them either way but a board that has softwood in it won't last very long before breaking.
I've done a couple composite builds here on the channel, though I guess I haven't really done a combination of a veneer layup and glass/resin. I've built decks like that in the past, it would be fun to do it again and worth showcasing I think
I prefer the spar style presses but I've had a high level of success with both methods. Once you've built up your skills designing your mold geometry and gluing up your veneers, as long as you're getting enough clamping force it all works pretty dang well. Vag bags take less work to make a mold and spar presses are a little less finicky during the clamping of the board so there are tradeoffs but both work very well.
What mold and clamping considerations do we need for a more dramatic shape, like a drop down deck? Would something like that require a 9 ply or can you get by with 7?
If you're just doing a 1in drop then you could probably get away with a standard setup like he showed in the video. Past that though, you might need to make the drop transition pretty gradual and get a stiffer mold material.
In addition to what Tyson J said you could also press the deck in multiple pressings, only doing a couple veneers at a time, and that will help you get all nine ply to curve the way you want. You're never going to be able to get a super steep drop with this kind of setup, but if you're okay with a mellower one, I'm guessing like 45 degrees max, you can definitely press yourself a nice drop deck this way. Also leave yourself a good amount of space for the wood to transition from the concave to the drops
@@tyson_J I've used styrofoam for my first board because... it's what was in my workshop at the time. I'm using a vaccum bag method. How deep do drop downs get?
@@noveltystylus6703 I've seen 3in drops before on some boards. If you're doing a vac bag, I know roarockit has a complete drop down guide on their site where they use a bag and some additional clamps to press all the veneeers at once.
Pro tip: you don't need to glue all vanires at one squish. you could add one at a time, then your homemade clamps got immense force on each layer. Downside is that you must clamp it more times and wait each time, but for your own prototype deck you could wait couple of days.
@@GoodRoads Yeah, I didn't make any skateboard deck yet, but I'm making things and know this method. I want to make huge surfskate deck like "whaleshark whitetail", with aggresive curves. And I want to make it from an OAK VANIRES, because near my location there is a great producer of high quality oak vanires, they got ONLY OAK, but the best ones. What do you think about the oak deck? It will be heavier of course, but in surfskate it is normal to have heavier board... Also oak is harder, so I want to make it in this layer method. The KEY here is to maitain already glued layers in the same position in mold at all gluying cycles, so I want to glue sacraficial corners of deck TO THE FORM in first cycle and add a layer at the time to this fixed deck. Also, there is that thing with almost all wood glues, when you apply them on the wood they tend to unstick from the wood if you wait too long and move them side to side, so less layers can help with that thing.
Truly that shouldn't have worked. Amazing property there in noncompressible foam. It's pretty minimal clamping pressure, so I guess that proves 30 ton presses are overkill. To be fair, they press like 10 at a time. Good job, good experiment, thanks!
I actually have a hotwire cutter that would have made quick work of this but I was intentionally make the most dirty, accessible mold I could manage to illustrate the point that it really doesn't have to be perfect or expensive to work well
This is why I like TH-cam, someone willing to share useful information. I was planning on using this technique using 3 ply sheets, but looking at this I'm going for veneers instead. I think in theory the veneers will shape better than using 3 ply as the press isn't fighting an already preformed sheet. Good work.
TH-cam is made for this kind of great content!! Well done dude!
Thank you for this beautifull explanation and easy access to get creating boards. I want a very low longboard in the shape of an landyachtz evo but then a bit lower and i think i am going to make it myself now!
Thank you very much!
Hey Chris I’ve been using this way of pressing for 3 deck already and it’s working great! I wanted to mark the fact that it is because of you that I’m diving in on crafting my own board!!! 🥳 and so far I’m loving this! All your videos are really cool and helpfull! Keep going! You are the best!
This is exactly what ive been trying to find so I can make it ! Thank you !
Dude, that's why I make these videos. love to hear it and good luck with your builds!
This is sick, I’m definitely going to try an implement a few of these ideas into my next press
great series of videos with an incredible wealth of information. thank you so much for making and sharing.
Thanks dude! Get out there and make yourself some boards!
Pretty rad man!!!! I have a friend who shapes custom decks and there is nothing like having your own shape for how yoh ride!
Love the press, love the shape, love the concave!!
Totally dig this. Very cool. I skate alot and am teaching my daughter as well. Would be awesome to get into a money saving project to support our fun. 🤘👍
I’m going to make a skateboard for my friend, and this has been the best video I’ve seen for the mold and press phase.
I like it
Awesome, nice work and great walkthrough. I tried some boards with wider wheelbase. Loved it for some things but definitely took away some pop. But I like a good shaped board. Very cool.
Stay Rad Sir.
My pop isn't really developed enough for me to notice if it gets affected, at this point if it makes me feel more stable on the landings I'm all for it. That'll help my comfort level and open some doors for me
Just use what you got! Best advice ever!
I don't skateboard... not even sure why I watched this - glad i did... that clamp is genius. Could be great for forming chair backs and bases... I guess I should say something like... sick dude? Thank you.
Always give us awesome content! love to see versus video between machine press deck compared with Hi tech foam mold 😆 like how the deck sound, flex hardness etc
Some comparative stuff like that would definitely be cool to do
Well done, it's really a good video!
I also wanna made one like that,love your works🥰
Awesum idea!! Decks are getting way too expensive!!,ill test out the boards for you bro!!! Haha great work
The longer wheelbase helps, if you have a deck like this where there is basically one front you could even move the front truck back a bit or back to the original placement while leaving the back truck back giving you a little larger wheel base but taking the weight off the front to help with ollies
Would take a little getting used to if you are used to skating popsicles depending on riding style.
That would definitely be an easy way to find the right wheelbase for me. Honestly, I don't really feel like I mind the extra weight. I think compared to a 15lbs mountainboard it all feel light, hahaha!
Very very inspiring stuff.
I done mine after I watched this video, the results were amazing, using other kind of wood here in south america and epoxy wood resin but with the same results!
Hola Kevin, qué tipo de madera usaste? Estoy en Colombia y tengo pensado hacer algunos decks.
This is extremely impressive! I love how you work man, I can totally relate! I think your channel should get more attention! Keep on going and it will grow. The quality of the content is very high and extremely educational!
Thanks dude! I appreciate that
Your work is amazing thank you so much for sharing
Awesome. Thank you for posting this
wow i havent attemped to make a deck since my high school days back in 2009. I remember making the mold was the hardest part but this is incredible. I have to try this some day
Nice art! Hoping I can have a space to build a deck.
Hey man I'm loving the videos! I was just wondering if it's possible to vacuum press a board using your 3d printed mold, as oppose to a foam one. Keep up the great work!
Yeah, that should work
Very nice video.
Thank u for yours video, i already make my 3 diy deck. 😁😁😁
Hey Chris, first let me say thanks for all your cool Videos. You really made me want to shape a first board myself.
Could you tell me if poplar wood is a good / an OK choice for a longboard? Currently 4mm poplar plywood is the only wood I can get for my project. The goal is a "simple" longboard with a slight rocker.
It also would be great if you could make a video about the different materials/woods used in deck building. Thanks again!
If all the plys in the plywood are poplar it should actually work okay. It might break a bit faster than a birch or maple board but it should be strong enough to ride, the softwood plywoods just don't have the same strength. I meant to do a materials series a while ago but it slipped my mind, thanks for the reminder!
@@GoodRoads Thanks for the reply! That's fine then for my first board. I don't expect it to turn out great or last forever :)
One other questions. Do you think it would be possible to press a drop down board with 4 layers of 3mm (0.12") poplar wood or should I rather just try some simple rocker?
Pressing a drop deck this way would be super difficult, I would err on the side of starting with something more simple. If you wanted you could press some mellow kicktails into your board and then make yourself some wedges to de-wedge the trucks back to flat. You could get a pretty decent drop deck effect that way without having to worry as much about clamping pressure and the wood bending aggressively
@@GoodRoads Thanks again. OK I was kind of suspecting this but hey good thing I asked. Interesting Idea with the wedges. I will think about it.
Great video! I have been wondering if 3D printed forms would work, and if foam works 3D printing totally will! EDIT: ooh I see your other videos now. I even have a large format printer!
congrats dude. love it ! keep it coming !
nice, looks like a good pool deck.
The board turned out awesome Chris. Hopefully you'll continue to do more skateboard decks and incorporating different materials. Maybe the next board can be a symmetrical board which has the same size nose and tail.
Wheelbase wise for stability 15 inches seems to be great for riding bowls.
The nose and tail on this one are actually the same size, just different shapes. I can definitely do a symmetrical deck next time I visit this style board though. The wheelbase on this one is 15.75 so it does seem like right around 15 is the sweet spot
Edit: I lied, I just measured and the nose is shorter
Thats Amazing! Good Job
Sir, I am a laser engineer and you would love to see what I have done with skateboards. It's fun to have half million dollar machines at your disposal. Loved the content...
Really great, inspiring work. Came out so professional.
Very good! Great!
Hi Chris, that's for showing us how you make a deck with a foam mold and simple press. Quick question: How do you determine how tightly to screw down the press? Is it a matter of eyeballing the veneers and tightening to eliminate any visible gaps...and to see see some glue pressed out? Or is there a more precise method? Thanks again!
With a press like this? As tight as possible. As long as the foam you're using is dense enough you won't crush the mold and with this setup more pressure is better
@@GoodRoads thanks, makes sense. Keep making rad decks, supplies and videos!
Can you please provide a link to but some maple? I'm going crazy finding some in italy, so i might aswell buy some in the us and pay for the shipping! Thank you, great content!
Does Roarockit's european distributor work for where you're at? www.roarockit.eu/
@@GoodRoads It does!!! thank you so much, i was trying to find some for weeks, you're opening a whole new world for me man, for real hahaha, keep it up!
Cool shape
Woodworker here, when using the table saw set the blade height for each material thickness with the top of the teeth sticking above the material 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Less blade above the table means more space to move your hands around and overall safer.
2nd tip is don’t be scared to move your hands closer to the blade when pushing material through. Having your hands close to the fence when pushing creates a rotating motion with the blade and pulls the material away from the fence and towards the back of the blade. At the very least it gives you a bad quality cut and burn marks, but at most that is what causes kickback and I’ve seen it happen kicking full sheets of plywood across shops.
Try to have your hand halfway between the fence and the blade and use your hand to give a slight rotating motion to the right. It helps keep the workpiece along the fence through the entire cut. As always maintain full control and only do what you are comfortable with.
Otherwise great video and ideas I’ll be making a couple boards soon!
Should have a riving knife and a hood including dust extraction.
Awesome video!!!!!
I almost got the mold ready for my first longboard press! It will be a drop down with wedged edges so hopefully the mold can handle the force. I am using PIR insulation which can take some force though.
But: in this video is not mentioned that thickness of the board and the rubber sheets take some extra place in the mold. So i have to measure yet but i think you will have to lengthen the part with the loose foam pieces by 2 times thickness of the board + total thickness rubber. Then the mold will press the shape a lot firmer and more accurate i think.
Can someone confirm this? Thanks for the good explanation and fact that i can use simple tools and still can press a board❤
this is so good
imma save up to try this one day.
Awesome content as always brother! i wonder if you can help me out with the pocket`s angel. Blessings!
A lot of that comes down to preference but kicktail angles are typically between 15-20 degrees
What is the length of the board & what is the wheel base? I made a 36" deck w/ a 19" wheel base. If you ride ramp or park at all, this length of board w/that WB, you can lock in a lot of tricks because of the WB. Front & backside smith's are so much easier. I'm getting older so the longer 36" deck is real stable.
It is the brown deck that I showed you on your Instagram comment page.
The deck is 33" with a 15.75" wheelbase. I've got a Rayne deck with similar dimensions to the one you built, it's really good for hardwheel sliding but it's a bit of a tank because of the construction: bamboo and glass. It would be interesting to try a deck that size with a more standard / lighter build
Hello sir ♥️ I have been following you for a long time and your work is great ♥️ I want to make a skeet board myself and I have everything I need but I want you to give me the marks and sizes that I will plan based on the foam
I don't have a template or anything to share but that's a really interesting idea. Definitely something i could tackle at some point, I'll add it to the to do list. In the meantime maybe take a look at sk8cad.com/ from Beau over at Open Source Skateboards, I think you can print templates from his tool? Not 100% sure on that though
Nice video!
I’m thinking about doing a snowboard build in the near future. Do you have any tips?
- Thanks!
Love to hear it! I think the best piece of advice I can give is go slow, be patient, and really pay attention to the details. The better you can plan everything out the better chance you'll have of getting s successful press. Oh, and don't do what I did with my resin the first time around, small batches and shallow containers!
@@GoodRoads Will do, thanks!
I thought of something else: when I clamped my molds together to press the decks I didn't use spars. I would definitely use them if I tried that method again. My base wound up with an edge to edge curve and spreading the clamping force out from the sides of the mold would help get the base flatter
@@GoodRoads Thanks, I will keep that in mind!
Ive been searching everywhere for days to try and find a foam brick like that and i cant. Thing you can point me ina direction?
Did you ever find the foam brick?
Did you find it in the end
It’s 2” insulation foam, can find at home depot or any store like that
A standard construction insulation board. Go to a building material suppliers.
Do you think you'll be able to regain some accuracy in the mold with thinner EVA foam? I've seen Yaya Han branded sheets at Joann's in 24" x 40" sizes in 2 mm and 5 mm thicknesses.
You'd probably have to be a little more careful with your mold construction but it's definitely worth a shot!
To clarify its eva foam not rubber flooring. Also how thick ? Maybe 3/8" to 1/2"?
Very cool 👍🏻
you need to bring your back foot up on the ollies to make them higher
Are your ply's all maple? Or do you have some other wood mixed in? Great video btw
This deck is an all maple build, but there's no reason this wouldn't work with birch or bamboo
So, I've stayed manty different kinds of boards. Some of the cheaper blanks I've tried are really thick and feel kind of "soggy" in the pop department. Does this method lead to those types of boards? I could hear during your ollie's a way lower pitch than your normal pro board, which makes me feel it does produce that. If it does, do you know how to press diy veneer boards and end up with the same crisp thinner result as name brand boards? Appreciate you spreading this knowledge man.
I think pressing your own decks, or getting decks pressed by a small shop, will almost always get you better results than mass produced stuff once you get the hang of doing a layup. I'd attribute the sound of my pop on this board to: it being a large deck with a deep concave, it being slightly thicker than standard just because I didn't sand the veneers down, and me riding softer wheels. To me the deck feels really snappy for how heavy it is, it's stiffer than some of the off-the-shelf boards I have. A stronger press will squeeze out more glue too, which will also help with the weight/stiffness
@@GoodRoads definitely see where you're coming from. The attention to detail when you make things yourself for yourself cannot be matched at a mass production scale. I was thinking more along the lines of pressure needed. Like In factory's they use hydraulic presses with lots of force behind them. Then again they press like 9? at a time. I just imagined it getting pressed tighter at the factory than at home.
Thanks tho this is highly motivating I guess I'm gonna have to take a crack at it and see if I can make myself a dream board. Thanks for replying so fast man.
@@nameless1820 No problem dude! I haven't built one myself yet but a lot of hobbyists and small shops use presses built around 10-20t hydraulic bottle jacks. Those guys and gals are pressing up to three or four decks at a time and it's limited more by the potlife of the glue and how long the layup takes. There's some debate around how hard you want to squeeze the veneers for the best outcome but the more glue you can squeeze out the better your seams will be and the more weight you shave off the deck. Good luck with your builds! Keep me posted!
Wow. impressive. You made it look easy. just curious. what size did you end up with? I got a large shoes so wider boards feels so much better for a guy my size.Now days boards are so narrow.
What did you use to ge the graphic on there and what kind of paint do you use?
Awesome!
what do you do for finish? paint then sealer? sealer then paint? and what should i use for best results?
I usually dye my veneers, do a coat of finish, do my art, then add another two layers of finish
I really liked the video but I wanted to know the name of the material you used
Did you alternate the grain directions in the veneer?
Hi sir can I make a longboard using Venture marine plywood?
No idea! "Marine" plywood is a designation that the adhesive used to glue the plys together is waterproof, what you'd really want is a plywood where all the veneers are hardwood. Some marine plys are and some aren't, you can press a board with them either way but a board that has softwood in it won't last very long before breaking.
very simple thank
Does anyone know what that blue stuff was
You are a genius
Супер идея! Благодарю! Мужик, ты самый крутой мастер из тех что я видел! Желаю Удачи!
impressive!
Have you ever tried…inserting fiberglass sheets in between for flex? Or something similar? Ist am super curious about that.
Best regards from Germany.
I've done a couple composite builds here on the channel, though I guess I haven't really done a combination of a veneer layup and glass/resin. I've built decks like that in the past, it would be fun to do it again and worth showcasing I think
@@GoodRoads i would love to see that.
Which do you think gives a better lamination, your press or the vacuum bag?
I prefer the spar style presses but I've had a high level of success with both methods. Once you've built up your skills designing your mold geometry and gluing up your veneers, as long as you're getting enough clamping force it all works pretty dang well. Vag bags take less work to make a mold and spar presses are a little less finicky during the clamping of the board so there are tradeoffs but both work very well.
What mold and clamping considerations do we need for a more dramatic shape, like a drop down deck? Would something like that require a 9 ply or can you get by with 7?
Another great video, sir. 😁
If you're just doing a 1in drop then you could probably get away with a standard setup like he showed in the video. Past that though, you might need to make the drop transition pretty gradual and get a stiffer mold material.
In addition to what Tyson J said you could also press the deck in multiple pressings, only doing a couple veneers at a time, and that will help you get all nine ply to curve the way you want. You're never going to be able to get a super steep drop with this kind of setup, but if you're okay with a mellower one, I'm guessing like 45 degrees max, you can definitely press yourself a nice drop deck this way. Also leave yourself a good amount of space for the wood to transition from the concave to the drops
@@tyson_J I've used styrofoam for my first board because... it's what was in my workshop at the time. I'm using a vaccum bag method. How deep do drop downs get?
@@noveltystylus6703 I've seen 3in drops before on some boards. If you're doing a vac bag, I know roarockit has a complete drop down guide on their site where they use a bag and some additional clamps to press all the veneeers at once.
Could you use a thinner sheet of rubber and more weight for even better accuracy 🤔
What is the exact name of the foam for the mold and the rubber mat?:)
Pro tip: you don't need to glue all vanires at one squish. you could add one at a time, then your homemade clamps got immense force on each layer.
Downside is that you must clamp it more times and wait each time, but for your own prototype deck you could wait couple of days.
Gluing fewer sheets at the same time can be really beneficial for steep curves
@@GoodRoads Yeah, I didn't make any skateboard deck yet, but I'm making things and know this method. I want to make huge surfskate deck like "whaleshark whitetail", with aggresive curves. And I want to make it from an OAK VANIRES, because near my location there is a great producer of high quality oak vanires, they got ONLY OAK, but the best ones.
What do you think about the oak deck? It will be heavier of course, but in surfskate it is normal to have heavier board...
Also oak is harder, so I want to make it in this layer method.
The KEY here is to maitain already glued layers in the same position in mold at all gluying cycles, so I want to glue sacraficial corners of deck TO THE FORM in first cycle and add a layer at the time to this fixed deck.
Also, there is that thing with almost all wood glues, when you apply them on the wood they tend to unstick from the wood if you wait too long and move them side to side, so less layers can help with that thing.
What glue did you use here?
Titebond 2
I could not hear where you got the wood?
But how well does it skate to somebody who, no offense, actually shreds. Also, how long do the boards last this way?
Truly that shouldn't have worked. Amazing property there in noncompressible foam. It's pretty minimal clamping pressure, so I guess that proves 30 ton presses are overkill. To be fair, they press like 10 at a time. Good job, good experiment, thanks!
Hello, can I have the measurements for this particular mold please? Especially since it’s longer than a typical skateboard… thank you 😊
Nothing like a blade way up in the air
what type of wood did you use to back the mold?
If I remember right I just used some half inch ply I had around the shop, you can use whatever as long as it's flat
This is awesome! Something i would definitely do if i had your set up with tools and space. Stay Rad
where do you get your veneers from?
Usually from roarockit.com
Ill do what I do best and pay the rest. Cool video
How thick was the foam you got?
I want one
What hapend to the hoverborad
Wheres the Link for the Veneer?!
Check out www.roarockit.com/
Why don't you make a large foam cutter first? You have all the necessary tools to build that. That should make cutting the foam a lot easier
I actually have a hotwire cutter that would have made quick work of this but I was intentionally make the most dirty, accessible mold I could manage to illustrate the point that it really doesn't have to be perfect or expensive to work well
Looks really thick and heavy
Subbed
What kind of styrofoam are you using?
It's XPS foam insulation, the higher the r-value the better
@@GoodRoads thanks man🤘
Wow
Where can I get veneers at🛹
Check out roarockit.com
Your voice is very similar to Samurai Guitarist
How strong is the board using veneers vs something like plywood? Thanks for the awesome video.
Looks like NorCal
Great work .
But I'm telling ya surfskating trucks blow your mind.
My pile of projects is deep so it's going to be a minute before I get to it, but a surfskate is 100% on the to-do list
if you can, try to get at least 30miutes of practice of your choice a day
Any boneite in there?