Thanks for the video. Although initially impressed and pleased with the device prior to Google taking over Nest, I've found it works against our heating requirements. I suspect an updat a few September's ago caused issues. It's crashed caused issues so I've switched it off. The lack of Nest produced remote radiator controls valves still disappoints me, but Google have said hardware - beyond the actual Nest - is not there thing and 3rd party solutions have mixed reviews and are not cheap to try. Can't help thinking it's something the original Nest company would have developed.
I've got one of these and I love it. I've also got nest camera iq outdoor, nest hello door bell and two nest protect smoke and co detectors and I love it all.
We have a few nest products, indoor camera. Outdoor camera after our car got fucked and smoke alarm. Hoping for nest thermostat on black Friday. Girlfriend don't want nest hello doorbell tho. Don't know now why.
I had a new boiler fitted recently and a Honeywell thermostat downstairs controller was fitted that is wireless to a hub upstairs next to the boiler, so no wires available to the downstairs thermostat. Does the Nest Learning thermostat round controller need to connect to wires downstairs or can it also connect wirelessly to the Heat Link next to the boiler?
Thanks for this but little information on the Hot water side of this Thermostat. I have the Mk1 (Heating only) but wanted to see how to program set up water schedule..
So you are a qualified electrician. How do you reconcile the IEE regs for electrical safety regarding segregation of 12 volt and 230 volt wiring in the same enclosure in this case? Do you identifying the 12 volt wiring?
In a perfect world the thermostat cable should have been removed from the wiring centre. It should then be taken directly to the nest box. This would provide a practical solution for compliance with IEE regs
If my current thermostat is 230V and I want the hive thermostat in the same place how easy is it for an electrician to install the hive with it need 12v supply? Thanks!
Ah sorry didn’t see which video you commented on! The wires from the 230v wall mounted thermostat will have to be connected to the 12v terminals in the nest heat link, or you can just buy a stand and install it on that which is the easiest option in my opinion.
Can you just install one of these for the upstairs without touching the downstairs zone/water tank control and then when working, tackle the downstairs zone/water tank control?
right i have a new house and i have a heating control down stairs and one up stairs so i can have the heating on down stairs and off up stairs so im confused if i need two or just one and it will do the same please help thanks.
I have connected the nest up and currently have this on the stand and set my old thermostat to full heating and the nest overides this to the temperature I set this at , I wish to wall mount this in the existing position of the old thermostat which is the same thermostat as yours am I right in thinking I need to source the wires from the thermostat to the wiring centre and remove , then connect to the 12v heat link terminals and nest thermostat ?
HI There, if i already have the nest device hardwired, how do I relocate the device to a different location? Is it as simple as plug it on the nest stand which i don't yet have? Thanks
You will need to bridge out the terminals in the wiring behind the nest thermostat or disconnect them completely in the wiring centre and then fit the thermostat on a stand
Hi mate great video, i have the same set up but my thermostat is wired direct into the programmer not the wiring centre. So would i just need to wire the heat sense in place of the programmer and either wire the thermostat off of the heatsense or alternatively plug it in on a stand elsewhere and then not have to touch the wiring centre?
Hi My programmer is next to my boiler in the downstairs kitchen and wiring centre is upstairs with hw cylinder, is there anything I need to consider? Ideally I want to remove existing programmer and install heat link in its place, my understanding is I will struggle to use cable from old room thermostat due to location of my programmer and wiring centre? Thanks in advance
You don’t. T1 and T2 the last two terminals on the right of the heatlink are 12v positive and negative so you can just use the wires that were previously sending 240v to the old thermostat and re-terminate them into the heatlink.
Hi maybe a silly question. But my wiring centre is upstairs and the control panel down stairs so how do I transfer the thermostat wire from the old thermostat via the wire centerwire (upstairs) to the new heat link (downstairs) thanks.
Ok, I'm confused. I thought it was just a case of replacing the actual thermostat. I don't have either of those two white boxes in with my boiler. Just the boiler (promax combi HE plus) and the thermostat (honeywell t6360) in the hallway.
hi, so i have a controller the same as the one in your video that controls my hot water and heating, exact same wiring inside. But i don't have a thermostat on the wall to adjust my radiator heat, that is done by how much i open my valves. so can i wire a nest to do exactly the same job of having my hot water/heating on a timer or turn on and off as and when i choose. many thanks
@@artisanelectrics hi. thanks for the reply. so my wiring from my danfoss controller i have exactly the same live, N, E, hot water, and heating. i assume the L,N, and E go into the lettered, symboled terminals. although the earth isnt needed? which terminals do i need to put the hot water and heating cables ?
@@artisanelectrics could really do with some expert advice, if you can. i have mounted the controller where the old one use to be but have used a 3m usb cable to a plug and into a spare socket under my stair cupboard to power it. i have mounted the heat link under the stair cupboard also. With the 5 cables from the existing danfoss controller i have wired the earth, live and neutral and it powers up fine and is paired to the controller now through wifi. i just don't know where to put the two remaining black cables that use to call for heat or hot water in the danfoss controller. so at the moment i cant get any heat or hot water. so have temp wired the old controller back up so i can use it. if you could help me i would be very grateful. many thanks
Great vid. I was hoping just to change the thermostat and use the existing programmer as we need it for water ( and my wife knows how to use it) will this work without the relay box ? Thanks.
Thanks for this. How do I know what wiring scheme to use with my boiler? It's a combi boiler but I think it's Open Therm as well. How do I know whether it's s plan or y plan, or just regular 230v combi, or open therm? Struggling to get the wiring correct.
Serious question, how did you get the 12v cables from the heat link to the thermostat? I have a similar problem with only live wires in the thermostat and can only put the nest on a stand.
I live in a rural part of Dorset and we get frequent wifi drop out and power cuts in the winter. I have already installed Hive but this requires manual resetting and rebooting each time it loses connection, defeating the object of remote control. Does Nest automatically reset if it loses power and or wifi.
I don't understand this. If Nest Thermostat can be used with Nest Stand (going into a regular power socket anywhere in the main room) and it still can communicate with Heat Link, why do I have to hard-wire it with Heat Link? Shouldn't there be a way to just connect Thermostat with a regular 12V supply, not the original Nest Stand? If it is a fkn smart Thermostat, should it communicate with Heat Link then too?
The thermostat can be powered and pair with the heatlink either hard wired in with 12v from the heatlink or wirelessly. The thermostat comes with a ring that it clips in to which has both 12v terminals and a micro USB socket. You don’t need the base at all technically, the ring can either be screwed onto any compatible base or wall mounted. Wouldn’t recommend them at all though they’re plagued with issues. Quality control on the heatlinks is absolutely horrendous and the Wi-Fi on the thermostats fails fairly often as well. Electric override switch on the heatlink as well so when it does die, you’re stuck without any heating at all until it’s replaced or bypassed and you can’t buy them separately.
Hi there, Brilliant video and great work. I have the same programme time as on the video and the cables are the same. The only difference is I have two thermostats that run independently. One on ground floor and one on 1st floor. So how and where do I connect the second thermostat from the bedroom? Will I need to add separate heatlink for both zones or can I just get another nest thermostat? Thanks in advance.
@@artisanelectrics brilliant and thanks. You haven't got a video to explain all of this do you? Or if you ever do another similar setup please film and upload. Thanks again.
Great video the only bit i wasnt sure about was mixing 230V and 12V in the same box. Wiring centre boxes always a nightmare.. about time something better was available.
Hi. I have a mechanical time clock mounted next to my gas boiler, to regulate when my heating comes on and goes off, and i can set it to be constantly on or constantly off. I also have a temperature control unit in my hallway. My boiler only heats the hot water when i turn on a hot water tap. Do i need to replace both the time clock and the temperature control unit with my set up or only the temperature control unit?
I think the time clock will be replaced by the Nest Heat Link and the room thermostat will be replaced by the Nest Thermostat or you can disconnect it and use the Nest Thermostat on a stand. But you would need a professional to check this as it’s a slightly more complicated system than usual.
The wire colors on his install might be right, but G is normally independent control of the fan. On a conventional system, the Ys are the compressor, the G's the fan, and the W's the heat. heat and cool come in stages. A heat pump adds the complexity of a reversing valve and aux heat (resistive). Dual fuel is also possible. Some thermostats like to know the outdoor temperature. A communicating thermostat changes the rules again with things like energy recovery units and external ventilation. (C) was not used on early bi-metal thermostats. There are clever devices that can add-a-wire. Some stats are "power-stealing" which is hard to explain. Some only run on batteries. R and Rc require a special mention. It should be called Rh and Rc. This allows separate transformers for heating and cooling. I'll be calling it R and no be specific and not covering Rc and Rh variences. Assume Rc is connected to R/Rc and called R. (C) is the other end of the transformer in the heater controls. It is common to all of the relays. R is the other end of the transformer. Between (C) and R, (whatever the labels are) there should always be 24 VAC. The relays in the stat have one end of the coil tied to R through a contact in the stat. The other end of the coils connect to C. A jumper from R to W turns on the heat and usually the fan. A jumper from R to Y JUST turns on the compressor and not the fan. A jumper from R to G just turns on the fan. A few more comments: In conventional systems G is an always on or automatic fan. The furnace usually controls the fan unless overridden. The fan comes on later than a "call for heat" and the heater turns off when the call for heat ends. The fan time is extended. This can be by time or by sensor. it takes lower HP to move warm air, so therefore a lower speed in heating. With AC, the fan and AC turn on and off at the same time. the air cleaner and humidifier need outlets. Finally, fan speed can help control humidity. Outdoor air temperature and the time can hep the anticipator algorithm, static pressure, RPM, CFM My stat (A carrier Infinity) is totally nuts. run time, date singe install, errors, faults, when to change the air filter, outdoor temperature, zoning are all part of the stat. Carrier Infinity does a filter change test every day and zoning controls do not need a bypass damper.
Hi Jordan how are u OK mate u do a raelly good job on here mate keep up the good work on here mate how are u OK mate keep up the good work on here mate am a big fan of u do a raelly job good job on here mate keep hove a good day mate
BARGAIN! Get Nest Thermostat for £149 here: amzn.to/2DOZq2z
208 now go screw fix
Via the link it is £189
Thanks for the video. Although initially impressed and pleased with the device prior to Google taking over Nest, I've found it works against our heating requirements. I suspect an updat a few September's ago caused issues. It's crashed caused issues so I've switched it off. The lack of Nest produced remote radiator controls valves still disappoints me, but Google have said hardware - beyond the actual Nest - is not there thing and 3rd party solutions have mixed reviews and are not cheap to try. Can't help thinking it's something the original Nest company would have developed.
Have the exact same danfloss. Helped massively when I had installed mine and not working. Thank you.
I've got one of these and I love it. I've also got nest camera iq outdoor, nest hello door bell and two nest protect smoke and co detectors and I love it all.
Peter Wobacz yeah they are great products
We have a few nest products, indoor camera. Outdoor camera after our car got fucked and smoke alarm. Hoping for nest thermostat on black Friday. Girlfriend don't want nest hello doorbell tho. Don't know now why.
does anyone know of a video if you do not have a thermostat in the house? (heating is turned on from the main boiler)
No but I’m guessing it will just require additional wiring to be installed
I had a new boiler fitted recently and a Honeywell thermostat downstairs controller was fitted that is wireless to a hub upstairs next to the boiler, so no wires available to the downstairs thermostat. Does the Nest Learning thermostat round controller need to connect to wires downstairs or can it also connect wirelessly to the Heat Link next to the boiler?
Thanks for this but little information on the Hot water side of this Thermostat. I have the Mk1 (Heating only) but wanted to see how to program set up water schedule..
My boiler is a combi and does not have a heating programmer ??? Just a room thermostat. Can i still use the Nest ??
So you are a qualified electrician. How do you reconcile the IEE regs for electrical safety regarding segregation of 12 volt and 230 volt wiring in the same enclosure in this case? Do you identifying the 12 volt wiring?
Good point, not sure about that one
In a perfect world the thermostat cable should have been removed from the wiring centre.
It should then be taken directly to the nest box.
This would provide a practical solution for compliance with IEE regs
As roger said. U can run the 12v cable straight to nest box so it’s not in with the 230v at junction
If my current thermostat is 230V and I want the hive thermostat in the same place how easy is it for an electrician to install the hive with it need 12v supply? Thanks!
Very easy, the hive thermostat itself just uses batteries. The wired thermostat can be removed and disconnected at the wiring centre.
Artisan Electrics sorry I meant the Nest thermostat..my bad!
Ah sorry didn’t see which video you commented on! The wires from the 230v wall mounted thermostat will have to be connected to the 12v terminals in the nest heat link, or you can just buy a stand and install it on that which is the easiest option in my opinion.
Artisan Electrics thanks a lot for your help!
You’re welcome!
Can you just install one of these for the upstairs without touching the downstairs zone/water tank control and then when working, tackle the downstairs zone/water tank control?
right i have a new house and i have a heating control down stairs and one up stairs so i can have the heating on down stairs and off up stairs so im confused if i need two or just one and it will do the same please help thanks.
I have connected the nest up and currently have this on the stand and set my old thermostat to full heating and the nest overides this to the temperature I set this at , I wish to wall mount this in the existing position of the old thermostat which is the same thermostat as yours am I right in thinking I need to source the wires from the thermostat to the wiring centre and remove , then connect to the 12v heat link terminals and nest thermostat ?
Hi mine won’t connect to the heat link, please help
HI There, if i already have the nest device hardwired, how do I relocate the device to a different location? Is it as simple as plug it on the nest stand which i don't yet have? Thanks
You will need to bridge out the terminals in the wiring behind the nest thermostat or disconnect them completely in the wiring centre and then fit the thermostat on a stand
Artisan Electrics cheers! When you say disconnect the wiring, you mean disconnect it heatlink from the current hardwire stand? Thanks
Hi mate great video, i have the same set up but my thermostat is wired direct into the programmer not the wiring centre. So would i just need to wire the heat sense in place of the programmer and either wire the thermostat off of the heatsense or alternatively plug it in on a stand elsewhere and then not have to touch the wiring centre?
great thanks, can I ask why the jumpers on the heatsink?
Hi
My programmer is next to my boiler in the downstairs kitchen and wiring centre is upstairs with hw cylinder, is there anything I need to consider? Ideally I want to remove existing programmer and install heat link in its place, my understanding is I will struggle to use cable from old room thermostat due to location of my programmer and wiring centre?
Thanks in advance
How do you convert voltage to 12v for heat link and thermostat base?
You don’t. T1 and T2 the last two terminals on the right of the heatlink are 12v positive and negative so you can just use the wires that were previously sending 240v to the old thermostat and re-terminate them into the heatlink.
Which terminal does Cylinder Stat (HW on) go to?
(currently T3 on Honeywell ST9400c)
The rest is straightforward, thank you.
Hi i have a drayton rts1 and it has live, neutral call for heat and earth wire which one should I connect to the nest thermostat E and Heat link E
I don’t have a relay box on my boiler (I think) can I still install a nest thermostat. Thanks
Yes u can
Is this device compatible with Delphi's boilers?
I have an upstairs and downstairs analogue Honeywell thermostats, if I buy this kit , can i buy just the thermostat on its own for upstairs?
No you need a separate heat link for each thermostat
@@artisanelectrics thank you sir!!!
Hi maybe a silly question. But my wiring centre is upstairs and the control panel down stairs so how do I transfer the thermostat wire from the old thermostat via the wire centerwire (upstairs) to the new heat link (downstairs) thanks.
If in doubt call an electrician!
Ok, I'm confused. I thought it was just a case of replacing the actual thermostat. I don't have either of those two white boxes in with my boiler. Just the boiler (promax combi HE plus) and the thermostat (honeywell t6360) in the hallway.
Time to call a professional then
How much did you charge to fit this
Hi any chance you know how to install one on a vaillant erotherm air source heat pump with a vaillant vwz a1 I think lol ?
Anyone have a video for a combi boiler installation? Ours is 3 years old so should be compatible.
Not sure maybe I can make one!
@@artisanelectrics come round mind mate and install it. 😉
hi, so i have a controller the same as the one in your video that controls my hot water and heating, exact same wiring inside. But i don't have a thermostat on the wall to adjust my radiator heat, that is done by how much i open my valves. so can i wire a nest to do exactly the same job of having my hot water/heating on a timer or turn on and off as and when i choose. many thanks
Yes that should work fine, you will just need a stand for the nest thermostat to sit on instead of the wall.
@@artisanelectrics hi. thanks for the reply. so my wiring from my danfoss controller i have exactly the same live, N, E, hot water, and heating. i assume the L,N, and E go into the lettered, symboled terminals. although the earth isnt needed? which terminals do i need to put the hot water and heating cables ?
@@artisanelectrics could really do with some expert advice, if you can. i have mounted the controller where the old one use to be but have used a 3m usb cable to a plug and into a spare socket under my stair cupboard to power it. i have mounted the heat link under the stair cupboard also. With the 5 cables from the existing danfoss controller i have wired the earth, live and neutral and it powers up fine and is paired to the controller now through wifi. i just don't know where to put the two remaining black cables that use to call for heat or hot water in the danfoss controller. so at the moment i cant get any heat or hot water. so have temp wired the old controller back up so i can use it. if you could help me i would be very grateful. many thanks
great vid, just i dont have a current thermostat, does this mean im not suitable to buy a nest thermostat?
Thanks! You can probably still have a nest thermostat you will just need to buy a stand to put it on.
Great vid. I was hoping just to change the thermostat and use the existing programmer as we need it for water ( and my wife knows how to use it) will this work without the relay box ?
Thanks.
Thanks for this. How do I know what wiring scheme to use with my boiler? It's a combi boiler but I think it's Open Therm as well. How do I know whether it's s plan or y plan, or just regular 230v combi, or open therm? Struggling to get the wiring correct.
Im still confused 🤪
Serious question, how did you get the 12v cables from the heat link to the thermostat? I have a similar problem with only live wires in the thermostat and can only put the nest on a stand.
Disconnected the wires to the thermostat from the wiring centre and connected them to the heat link
I live in a rural part of Dorset and we get frequent wifi drop out and power cuts in the winter. I have already installed Hive but this requires manual resetting and rebooting each time it loses connection, defeating the object of remote control. Does Nest automatically reset if it loses power and or wifi.
Yes it does!
I don't understand this. If Nest Thermostat can be used with Nest Stand (going into a regular power socket anywhere in the main room) and it still can communicate with Heat Link, why do I have to hard-wire it with Heat Link?
Shouldn't there be a way to just connect Thermostat with a regular 12V supply, not the original Nest Stand? If it is a fkn smart Thermostat, should it communicate with Heat Link then too?
The thermostat can be powered and pair with the heatlink either hard wired in with 12v from the heatlink or wirelessly. The thermostat comes with a ring that it clips in to which has both 12v terminals and a micro USB socket. You don’t need the base at all technically, the ring can either be screwed onto any compatible base or wall mounted.
Wouldn’t recommend them at all though they’re plagued with issues. Quality control on the heatlinks is absolutely horrendous and the Wi-Fi on the thermostats fails fairly often as well. Electric override switch on the heatlink as well so when it does die, you’re stuck without any heating at all until it’s replaced or bypassed and you can’t buy them separately.
Iv got hive, just ordered radiator valves to control via hive
Nice!
Hi there, Brilliant video and great work. I have the same programme time as on the video and the cables are the same. The only difference is I have two thermostats that run independently. One on ground floor and one on 1st floor. So how and where do I connect the second thermostat from the bedroom? Will I need to add separate heatlink for both zones or can I just get another nest thermostat? Thanks in advance.
Hi! You need a separate heat link and nest for each zone.
@@artisanelectrics brilliant and thanks. You haven't got a video to explain all of this do you? Or if you ever do another similar setup please film and upload. Thanks again.
Manir Dhakal good idea thanks!
ive got the same setup, although I rarely use the upstairs zone so would like to leave that as it is, can I do that and just have the next downstairs?
Are you still enjoying the nest ?
I love it
Great job
Thanks!
Very useful video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video the only bit i wasnt sure about was mixing 230V and 12V in the same box. Wiring centre boxes always a nightmare.. about time something better was available.
Hi. I have a mechanical time clock mounted next to my gas boiler, to regulate when my heating comes on and goes off, and i can set it to be constantly on or constantly off. I also have a temperature control unit in my hallway. My boiler only heats the hot water when i turn on a hot water tap. Do i need to replace both the time clock and the temperature control unit with my set up or only the temperature control unit?
I think the time clock will be replaced by the Nest Heat Link and the room thermostat will be replaced by the Nest Thermostat or you can disconnect it and use the Nest Thermostat on a stand. But you would need a professional to check this as it’s a slightly more complicated system than usual.
The wire colors on his install might be right, but G is normally independent control of the fan. On a conventional system, the Ys are the compressor, the G's the fan, and the W's the heat.
heat and cool come in stages. A heat pump adds the complexity of a reversing valve and aux heat (resistive). Dual fuel is also possible.
Some thermostats like to know the outdoor temperature.
A communicating thermostat changes the rules again with things like energy recovery units and external ventilation.
(C) was not used on early bi-metal thermostats. There are clever devices that can add-a-wire.
Some stats are "power-stealing" which is hard to explain.
Some only run on batteries.
R and Rc require a special mention. It should be called Rh and Rc. This allows separate transformers for heating and cooling. I'll be calling it R and no be specific and not covering Rc and Rh variences. Assume Rc is connected to R/Rc and called R.
(C) is the other end of the transformer in the heater controls. It is common to all of the relays.
R is the other end of the transformer.
Between (C) and R, (whatever the labels are) there should always be 24 VAC.
The relays in the stat have one end of the coil tied to R through a contact in the stat. The other end of the coils connect to C.
A jumper from R to W turns on the heat and usually the fan.
A jumper from R to Y JUST turns on the compressor and not the fan.
A jumper from R to G just turns on the fan.
A few more comments: In conventional systems G is an always on or automatic fan.
The furnace usually controls the fan unless overridden. The fan comes on later than a "call for heat" and the heater turns off when the call for heat ends. The fan time is extended. This can be by time or by sensor.
it takes lower HP to move warm air, so therefore a lower speed in heating.
With AC, the fan and AC turn on and off at the same time.
the air cleaner and humidifier need outlets.
Finally, fan speed can help control humidity. Outdoor air temperature and the time can hep the anticipator algorithm, static pressure, RPM, CFM
My stat (A carrier Infinity) is totally nuts. run time, date singe install, errors, faults, when to change the air filter, outdoor temperature, zoning are all part of the stat.
Carrier Infinity does a filter change test every day and zoning controls do not need a bypass damper.
When I wired up my nest I had to rewire whole damn heating system.
Peter Wobacz ah nightmare!
This is not straightforward! Maybe if you’re an electrician ....
Yeah they claim it’s simple for any homeowner but it does take some technical know how, if in doubt call a Nest Pro installer
Hi Jordan how are u OK mate u do a raelly good job on here mate keep up the good work on here mate how are u OK mate keep up the good work on here mate am a big fan of u do a raelly job good job on here mate keep hove a good day mate
👍
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thanks Archie!
The
?
Damn hate that juice filled mouth!! Lol
Am lost