How to install Nest Thermostat 3rd Generation - UK
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2024
- How to install the Nest Thermostat 3rd Generation yourself in the UK. A complete step by step DIY guide on how to install the Google Nest 3rd Generation Learning Thermostat to a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30si Compact. Including how to fit the Nest to an official Nest stand.
I take you from the beginning, opening the box, going through the contents, installing the wiring to the Heatlink, wiring the Heatlink to the boiler, how to set up the Nest and finally turning on and using the Nest.
Nest Learning Thermostat 3rd Generation:
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Nest Stand for 3rd Generation Thermostat:
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These links are affiliate links, which means if you click the links and make a purchase, I'll receive a small commission. This helps to support the channel and allows me to continue making the helpful videos I do.
Please only attempt this if you are competent enough to do so. I have tried to simplify it but you do need a basic understanding of home electrics.
#nest #nestuk #nestthermostat #googlenest
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This is so much better than Worcester Bosch's own video on the topic. Nicely done.
Thank you! I tried to make it clear to understand! 👍🏼
Found your video before I got the Nest, and after viewing it, it game me the confidence that it would be fairly simple to get one working on my boiler. Fitted it today using your guidance without any problems, thank you.
I have a Bosch 28CDi but the older model and with no original thermostat fitted so your video was ideal. I had to disconnect the existing front plate digital timer for the Nest to start working which stumped me for only a second when I first tested it and it didn't work! I'm really grateful for your time creating this. 👍🍺
+EJ Wheeler I'm always pleased to hear when people have found any of my videos helpful. Have a look at my other 2 NEST videos for how to use it.
Hi mate, which existing front plate digital timer are you referring to? I'm having the same problem, everything has been connected but can't the thermostat to fire up my boiler.
Just helped me as well attaching to my WB. I was 99% sure I was doing it right.. but had that moment of self-doubt.
All was good - but nice to see an actual video rather than staring at wiring diagrams.
Glad the video helped you out...it's always best to check. Have a look at my other Nest videos to see how to use it and set schedules.
Just installed my Nest thermostat based on this guide. Found it really easy to follow, once I worked out why my boiler connections looked a bit different (mines not colour coded). Thanks.
+Deaks That's great to hear. Glad you found it helpful. I've just uploaded a couple more vids this week showing how to use it. They may be of interest to you. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much! Just what i was looking for! Sorted... I have waded through hours of useless youtube clips! Finally found a useful one... Thank you sir!
Glad you found it useful. I have done a few other videos on the Nest too if you want to have a look at them.
Watched this before ordering as I thought £120 for installation seemed a little much, your vid made it super easy and I was done with a working Nest in less than 40 mins. For reference I was fitting to a Worcester Bosch 28CDi and the wiring setup was as shown on your slightly more compact model. As with EJ wheeler below I had to unplug the front panel for a previous wireless thermostat to make it all work. Thanks!
Glad to hear the video helped you out! 👍🏼
Magic video , best one I've seen so far. Even though I am 4 years late, thank you!
Thanks! Glad it's still helping people out!
Thanks for the video mate. Just installed Nest with 32cdi combi. Had a wireless thermostat previously and the wiring from boiler was connected to the RF receiver and then the RF receiver was connected to the mains. I removed all the old wiring and re did it using your approach and it worked.
+Kamran Great to hear! Glad the video helped out! 😀
Iv'e been on the nest all day, i'm knackered, just got it going thanks to this.
😂 Glad to hear it helped you out!
Thank you! We’ve been freezing for the last 3 days while I work this out! Ledge! 🙂
Glad it helped you out!! 👍🏼
Great video! You've convinced me to buy! Mine's a conventional boiler so a little more wiring involved but I'm pretty sure I'll be fine at sorting it out! Thanks
Pleased to have inspired you! Don't splash out just yet...make sure you get a good deal in the Black Friday sales!
Mine wasn't working as i missed the looped wire from L to 2 and so this video saved a bill on someone coming to rectify it...thanks man!!!!!
Glad this video is still helping people out!! 👍🏼
No problem. Glad to help any other DIYers out there.
charlieshooter que?
+James J Sorry??
charlieshooter hi, thanks for the video! Got a question if you don't mind me asking.
I set up the nest and all was fine and dandy until I realised I've got no hot water. It's there when the boiler is working, but when the temperature is reached, the boiler switches off and hot water goes with it.
I've also got a Worcester, and was wondering if you had the same issue?
Nikita Michailov There should be a loop going from Live (L) on the boiler to Hot Water (HW) on the boiler. This should ensure the hot water is on constantly no matter what the NEST is doing. Make sure the loops not going from CH to HW on the boiler.
The other thing could be that the boiler is turning off totally once the NEST tells it to turn off. This would happen if the Live on the boiler was wired to 3 on the NEST maybe??
Wow, thanks for quick reply. I'll need to take it apart tomorrow, thanks for the ideas
Hi there thanks for your video, helped me distinguish which wire was which. My vallient ecotec has an existing thermostat. With switched live and call for heating coming straight from the boiler and N & L coming from the fused switch. I used the N and L from the fused switch to power my heat link and switched live from boiler to 2 and call for heating from boiler to 3. Just wanted to clarify that the link from L to 2 is not required. Thanks.
+david brown I've never installed a Nest with a Vaillant, but from looking at the wiring diagram for your boiler I'd say you are correct. It looks like you link 3 and 4 on the boiler to 2 and 3 on the Nest. No link from L to 2 on the Nest is required then.
Hi Been looking for a video to advise how to move from HIVE2 to Nest3 have to say your video is best I have found. I note that some have mentioned your camera quality and others the type of cable . I found your video coverage clear especially showing the wire connections and although my install was done by BG in 2006 the cable does not appear to be special The system is checked every year and not once has the condition been identified has faulty indeed no sleeve was used to identify the N which you took the trouble to do so Its obvious from the time you took and the quality of the finished job qualified or not you did a good job.
Thanks Ray, appreciate your kind words! Comments like this make up for 10 negative ones! Keep an eye out for my other Nest videos.
So many rubbish videos claiming to be guides. This is great and easy to follow. Cheers pal
Thank you! I have done a few other videos on how to use the Nest to. Check them out.
There is an earth terminal on the heatlink unit, it states in the instruction book to install an earth if using terminal T1 and T2 for the 12V supply
@@GTH67 Yes, I think I've covered that. I've now got mine linked up to Nest via T1 and T2 so made sure it's earthed.
Wow! Your video is incredibly easy to follow, after checking my Worcester Heatslave combi boiler which has identical connections I'm going to buy the Nest tomorrow and have a go myself.
Ive checked my user manual regarding the hot water however;
"If DHW (domestic hot water) is OFF on the programmer, the appliance will still supply DHW using heat stored in the tank, but it will not reheat the tank, therefore the amount of water available is limited but is adequate for washing up, filling basins etc.
We recommend that DHW is timed off overnight and when the home is unoccupied to save energy. The timer should be set for at least half an hour before normal hot water demands are expected to reheat the heat store."
So I might connect the water and see what that does. Something worth looking at for your combi maybe? Ill update tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Many thanks in advance.
+Afshin Bari Thanks....glad you found the video useful. We don't have a hot water tank, so our hot water is always there ready in the pipes within a minute or so. If we had a tank I would have definitely have connected the Nest up for that. Good luck with the install.
Thanks Charlie, installed and running like a pro, I consider myself a Nest Pro thanks to your video. Regarding the hot water tank, we don't have one either, but we are able to set a programme for the water. The latest Worcester combi boilers have an additional eco feature that manages hot water for even more efficiency, indeed on combi boilers without separate water storage tanks. Anyways, many thanks again for the help!
+Afshin Bari That's good to hear.....comments like that make doing the videos all worthwhile!
Thanks Charlie, great little vid. It helped me out with two things. Firstly the link wire from live to common, this was not at all obvious from the manual. Secondly I hadn't found the screws hidden at the bottom of the box!
I also had to open up the boiler to remove the connection to my old mechanical thermostat.
Thanks Again :-)
+Peter Lewis You're welcome. Glad it helped you out!
Hello! Great video. I have a thermostat upstairs and downstairs. Would the process be the same?
If you have two thermostats which control two different boilers then yes, and you'd need two Nests. The Nest can only control one boiler at a time.
Hi Charlie - your video is great. We are just about to fit a Nest learning thermostat to go with a new Worcester 23CDi Compact boiler. Like you, we haven't decided where to put the Nest so will get a stand to try it in a few places with a view to putting it on the wall later. My question is how do we get power to it on the wall without visible trunking. It is likely to be several rooms away so can't have a cable going from the boiler to the thermostat. Nest have told me that we would need 5V of power as you would with a phone charger (so would need a transformer to convert from 240V). Any tips of how to get power from a plug socket below, up to the position on the wall above it, with the cables hidden in the wall (without pulling the wall out). Is there a way of pulling out the plug socket and feeding the wire up the wall, then putting the plug socket back? I am not an electrician and will not be attempting this myself - just wondered if this is feasible? Thanks
It really does depend on the type of walls. If they are solid brick or concrete then the only way is to 'chase' the wall...messy....but if you're renovating the room anyway, not a problem. You could take the socket out to see what access is like behind (make sure the power is off!) and if the wall is stud partition then you could drill a hole where the Nest is going and then drop the wire down (best to have gravity on your side!) to another small hole near the socket (if there's a socket directly underneath). Don't go drilling near the socket before checking where the wiring is running first, and don't bring the wire out of the socket hole.....give it it's own hole.
Alternatively....what's the other side of the wall? If it's a cupboard or an area covered by furniture, drill right through and run the trunking up that side of the wall.
Hope that helps!
I definitely owe you a beer 👍🏻 I now appear to have a working Nest, thanks very much again for all your help
+Guy Daniels Awesome! Glad I could help! You will love it....
Did you out it in a room with a trv on the rad? Im interested on swapping from hive to this. Also moving it out of the hall into living room
Yes the radiator has a TRV on it, but it is fully open (set to max).
@@charlieshooter would it cause any conflict between the room stat and trv?
@@mattsidebottom7603 If it's a normal TRV then no....if it's electronic then maybe!
Thanks for reply,still haven’t got round to fitting the nest but will attempt it in the February half term.Cheers.
Good luck with the install! Any problems, leave a comment on here and I'll try and get back to you sooner next time!
Thanks for the video.
I have just connected mine.
I didn't loop the constant live for the hot water (connected it directly) and I did connect the earth wire next to t1&t2 terminals.
The only issue I have is that, despite it having a rechargable battery, it wants to stay plugged in (the thermostat). Maybe it's not fully charged, we'll see.
Mine is always plugged in. It needs to be as the battery is only really a back up.
Hi brilliant review this is what made me get a nest.thank you.
Just a question..I have a viessman vitodens 200-w. Would I just copy your way with the wiring. Thank you.
+Dean Sanders Glad you enjoyed the video and it helped you make a decision. You won't be sorry!
From looking at the instruction manual for your boiler it looks like you would wire it as i have done. It looks like your "call for heat" connection would be "1" on the boiler on block "96". Hope that helps!
That's great thank you. appreciate you looking into it for me.
thanks for the video. I am looking to install one of these very soon. FYI to get rid of flicker on your video change the shutter speed to either 50 or 60 depending on the Hertz of your lights. you can pick up some decent video lights from amazon that are anti flicker also
Thanks for the tips. I have changed most of my equipment since recording this video including a video light, so I shouldn't have any issues with flicker going forward. Thanks for commenting though! 👍🏼
Thanks for the video, i was also missing the link between live and 2, which i have now added. But even thou when i switch on the override the heating does not switch on, i checked the voltage for the live return at the link and at the boiler and i have 230+ volts being fed, I have a Worcester Greenstar 2000 combi boiler. I was tempted to phone Worcester as its a brand new boiler. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
I try do as much DYI as I can but I think I'll get it pro installed as seems complicated unless you understand your existing heating system or heating systems in general.
You do need to know what wires are going where, but once you know that it's not too difficult. If you're feeling unsure though, always consult a professional.
Very interesting to see how different the UK installation is compared to the US.
Yes, I was left scratching my head when I watched an American video before I undertook my installation!
I have a Bosch control unit which is powered from the boiler via a control cable. It doesn’t require a 240v power adapter or plugging in and does the same job, which is useful, as the nearest power point is on the other side of the room and it can be remotely used via an app.
Hi, very helpful this video.
I’ve got an Alpha Eco 2 Plus do I wired the same as you did yours?
Thank you
Just had a look at the manual. That looks a bit different to how I did it in the video. You would need to wire 1 and 2 on the boiler to 2 and 3 on the Heatlink by the looks of it.
So if you wanted to control your hot water as well could you just use the earth wire and connect it to the HW terminal on the boiler and the HW terminal on the heat link
I've not ever connected up hot water controls to mine. You would use terminals 4, 5 and 6 though, and it's more if you have a hot water tank, not just a combi.
Any info on installing to a wireless programmer? The receiver is in the loft space close to the boiler, but I will need the thermostat downstairs (bungalow) in the hallway. Distance about 4 mtrs, but through a plasterboard ceiling and joists. Great vid!!
The Nest wouldn't need a separate wireless programmer. It's all built into the Nest itself. 4 metres through a ceiling shouldn't be too much of a problem for the wireless signal though.
Hi, thanks for the video. Just a question, can I connect directly from main fuse box with 1mm or 1.5mm
The cable used to connect the Heatlink to the boiler should be flex but mine has been fine all these years! 👍🏼
Is it possible to have one of these down stairs and one up stairs reason being my mam is old and we already have one down stairs but is it possible to link another for upstairs
It needs to be one per boiler/heating system I'm afraid. So it's usually one per property....unless your heating is split.
@@charlieshooter thanks charlie i was just wondering if you could link two together . Will have to zone it the no bother.
Excellent video and really useful. I do have a slight issue with my setup, I have the same boiler too. When I turn on my boiler after wiring the same way, the heating is on continually and I can't stop it from the app? I'm sure I've messed up somewhere but I'm struggling to find out where.
Have you left the loop in at the boiler end possibly? That would do it!
@@charlieshooter Thanks for replying so quickly. The only loop is for the hot water. So live to hot water.
@@noobwithacameraortwo.7024 Ok, could be how it's wired at the Heat Link maybe. Double check it is like mine in the video. It definitely sounds like there is a permanent live going to the boiler that shouldn't be.
@@charlieshooter I found if I remove power to number 2 (common) on the heatlink, the boiler doesn't fire up but that's defeating the purpose of heating lol. I have the call for heat going to number 3 and to LR rads on the boiler. I'm not sure why it's being a pain. Edit, I wonder if I've fried the relay on the heat link, if this is a thing?
It's a strange one. If everything is wired exactly like the video then it should be working fine. Could be an issue with the Heatlink?
Hi mate great vid, I already have nest installed via hardwire to the boiler but the Thermostat is located in a cold room. I would like to move the thermostat into the living room to have more accurate temperatures. Is it possible to control the boiler by just plugging the thermostat into a wall socket for the power and negating the need to be hardwired. Many thanks
Yes, it can be plugged in to a wall socket and will communicate wirelessly to the Heatlink. Funnily enough I'm just doing the opposite....had it just plugged in the wall and now going hardwired! Thanks for watching! 👍🏼
Thanks for that , my nest is in the hallway which is quite draughty that’s why I’m moving it to the living room 👍🏻
@@stevetaylor6833 I've always had it in the living room upto now, but whilst I've been renovating it I had it in the hallway next to the front door. I certainly wouldn't leave it there!
That is where mine was installed and like most houses the hallway is one of the coldest rooms.20c in the hallway amounted to 25c in the rest of the house, bloody heatwave🥵🥵
Hi thank you for the video. My current thermostat is Danfoss, I have COM and N/O wires connected only. Earth is there but not connected. How do I connect the the heat link and nest thermostat?
The Heatlink needs to be put near the boiler really, and connected directly to the boiler. You could use those wires currently in place by the thermostat to wire the Nest to the Heatlink using T1 and T2?
Thanks for the vid Buddy. Very helpful.
No problem. Glad you found it useful.
From a very experienced self employed electrician, super vid.
Thank you. Nice of you to say so...really appreciate that. 😀
Thanks for this video, it is amazing. I have two zones in my house and need a nest on each. Both zones have a thermostat which I’m gunna use as charging for nest on wall but in a cupboard I have two other zone things. Above this is my wiring to the boiler. If I show you the wiring would you be able to advise which need to go to the link? Thanks Danny
+Danny Slinn Ill be honest, I've never installed one/two like this. But from what i can gather, you would basically need a live and neutral to power the Heatlink for each zone, and then a "call for heat" taken from each zone wiring to the respective Heatlink.
Thanks for your video, it helped me a lot. I have a combi boiler and it is a bit of bugger to get it to work properly. In order for the thermostat to work and switch the boiler on and off, I needed to connect the 2 existing thermostat wires that were already on the wall. Without connecting these 2 wires the thermostat would not work, It also avoids me connecting the USB power adaptor to it as it takes 12v from the boiler. It seems to work now for a few days, but my only problem is that when it switches the boiler off, my hot water is switched off too. The only way around this is to switch on the Heat Link, which sets it to on all the time and move the dial on the boiler to water only. It's a bit of pain, but it seems to work. My only problem is if I go out or go to sleep and it's a freezing cold night, then it won't switch the boiler on and it could freeze my pipes. Any advise on an alternative way to wire a combi boiler properly to make it work so that it doesn't turn my boiler off as if I am switching it off from the mains, would be much appreciated?
+Tony Antoniou Glad you found the video useful! There should be connections on your boiler that switch the live to just the heating and the live to just the hot water separately. There could be a loop missing from the switchable live on the hot water which is why it is going off with the thermostat. What boiler is it?
+charlieshooter Thank you very much for your response, it is much appreciated. I have a old Vokera combi-boiler that is about 15 years old. I have basic connections. 1 Live, I Neutral, 1 Earth and 2 cables that used to go to the old Honeywell thermostat and that's all, which I tested to be around 12V DC. I don't have separate hot water or central heating connectors on the boiler, just those 2 other connectors on the boiler to the thermostat to control the central heating only. I had to connect 2 cables from the Heat Link (12V power) to the 2 12V connector cables on the boiler and then connect the existing thermostat cables on the same 12V connectors on the boiler to make the Nest thermostat work properly. This is perfect as it powers the Nest thermostat without the USB power adaptor and it makes the thermostat work with my boiler. The Heat Link switches the boiler off completely and that is the problem. I connected the combi-boiler by looking at the wiring diagram that came with the Nest thermostat, with the exception of the 12V Heat Link connection. The Heat Link connection is the same as the one on your video. so number 3 on the Heat Link is now connected to the Live on the boiler to power it up and the Live that was previously on the boiler is now on a constant Live feeding (as it used to be on the Live of the boiler). Neutral goes directly to the Neutral on the boiler. I hope this information helps.
+Tony Antoniou 7 It certainly seems a bit of a different setup to what I'm showing in the video. It seems to be what NEST describe as a low voltage setup. They show to wire 2 and 3 on the Heatlink to the 2 existing wires coming from your boiler (12v ones) and then obviously power Heatlink with Live and Neutral either from boiler or spur with FCU. The T1 and T2 terminals are only for the NEST to connect to. Hope that helps?
+charlieshooter Thank you for your advise. I tried the low voltage configuration, but no joy. I need to find out what model number my boiler is to see if it is ow voltage (whatever that means on a boiler), which means I have to dismantle the casing, which is a bit of pain to put back. I never wanted a Vokera boiler in the first place, however when the plumber installed it, I had no choice as I didn't know much about boilers back then. Thinking of getting a new one so that it works with my nest thermostat. I think it's time to change it as I really hate it, cheap rubbish.
Without the two existing thermostat cables, the nest won't work, so I had to use them. I'm not sure how you got yours to work without those 2 thermostat cables and as evident from the manual if you place it elsewhere with a stand. At the same time I added the 12V cables from the heat link to also power the nest instead of using the USB power lead on the same link to the thermostat cables. Thanks.
Great video. I've got an existing DT20 timer already installed in my Worcester 35cdi, so what needs to be done to that after the nest is installed? Remove it, disconnect it, or just switch the heating to the "off" setting on it?
Thanks for watching. The NEST replaces this timer so you can remove it/disconnect it. You would need to, to stop them interfering with each other.
Hi Charlie, just wanted to say thanks very much for this video, thanks to you I now have a successful Nest installation with a Worcester Bosch Highflow 440. I had to disconnect the DT2 timer like in one of the other comments to get it to work, but that was the only hiccup. So chuffed now, I also have the hot water connected up to it too thanks to your advice.
+Louise Cooper That's great to hear! Glad the video and all the comments helped. Hope you enjoy using your Nest.
Hi. Great video. I am planning to install the NEST but I have a question... The thermostat currently installed is a hard wired Drayton. The cables running to it from the boiler (Worcester Bosch Combi 36CDi) already match what you installed to the Heat Link in the video, although it doesn't use all the wires. Therefore my question is this.... Can I put the Heat Link in place of the current thermostat as a direct replacement (making the necessary wiring connections)? My other concern is that it is located in the hall whereas the boiler is in the kitchen so the wiring between the two is a lot more than the 30cm you quoted - the wiring is hidden but I'm guessing about 5 meters. Any info appreciated, cheers.
+Nick Miles Hi, glad you found the video useful! The 30cm mentioned is a MINIMUM distance that the Heatlink should be from the boiler, there is no maximum so it should be fine.
You could do it the way you said, or cut a length of wire by the boiler and connect the boiler to the Heatlink in the kitchen, then use 2 of the wires remaining from the kitchen to the hall to connect the Heatlink to the Nest (to power it). That way you can put the Nest on the wall in the hall rather than the not so pretty Heatlink!
That's if you're putting the Nest in the hall....if you're plugging it in using the adaptor, you can put it anywhere!
You're way is fine but I'm just offering an alternative instead of putting the Heatlink on the wall in the hall.
Thank you. Really appreciate you getting back to me so quickly.
Our boiler has one of those annoying manual ticking timers on it - if we get the nest could we safely remove that annoying ticking timer?
As long as it's not an integral part of the boiler you should be able to get rid of any old fashioned mechanical timer after fitting a Nest.
Hi Charlie just bought a nest,watched your video which was great.I have a thermostat in the living room but will be mounting my nest on the stand.can you tell me what I do with the existing thermostat and wires?do I just remove?Also like you said in a previous post in the Americans videos they only show you replacing the thermostat for the nest and not the heat link.Do you have to have the heat link if you have an existing thermostat?
Sorry, only just seen this comment, it got caught up in the spam filter somehow! I presume you have sorted it now, but, yes you would just remove the old wiring and thermostat. The Heatlink is required, without this the Nest will not work. Better late than never!!
Hi, I don't even have a Nest, having plumped for a Hive system, but I just had write to commend your excellent video. If only someone with your skills at explaining would do something similar for the Hive. Great stuff, thanks - even though I'm on the other side of the smart thermostat fence :)
+flyentity Thanks for your kind words. It's like Android and Apple....they are both good products! I'm going to be doing a lot more How To Videos in 2017.....so hopefully you will find some of them useful.
Actually, I'm thinking of jumping ship. I've still a few days left to send my unopened Hive back to Amazon and buy a Nest instead - although substantially more pricey as I got the Hive at the reduced price of £124. I like the idea of not needing a hub at the router for the Nest. And they should both work nicely with my Echo Dot.
+flyentity I love the NEST and in my opinion it looks nicer than the Hive (not the sole reason to buy it mind!!) I would wait until just after Christmas....I imagine the NEST coming down in some kind of flash sale. They did around Black Friday.
What is the purpose of the hub by the boiler, all other videos I have seen has been the thermostat only!. Is this because you used it on the stand?
No, the Heatlink (hub) is required in the UK, whether you use the stand or put it straight on the wall. You may have been watching American installations as I don't think they use a Heatlink?
Fantastic video connected mine today all thanks to you.
Excellent! Glad it's still helping people out!
Thanks for sharing this, nice and clear. Neat job with the conduit, really like that you don't see the wires going into the heat link. I know the box is plastic but since there is an earth terminal next to the 12v why not connect it?
+Frankie F Thanks....hope it helped! I knew there was a reason I left it off. Just checked the instruction manual and it says to only connect an earth if using T1 and T2 to power the Nest.
Ah ok, many thanks for the quick reply
I believe that earth terminal would be used for original cable which was connected to the old room thermostat and was a twin and earth and that earth would no longer be required for the new Nest thermostat which is now 12V so that wire could be safely connected to this terminal rather then left floating inside this box.
I think you could connect it if you want, but i just left it off as per instructions.
Hi, first of all, awesome video, easily the most useful one... and here comes the "but". but could you help me with my case? my boiler is "chaffoteaux ultra 24FF". here what I got so far: boiler has TA1(2 pins) looped for thermostat, so what I should do is take Live and Neutral to Heatlink, and remove the loop from TA1 and connect one cable to 2 and one to 3 on heatlink. Does this sound correct?
Thanks, pleased that you have found the video useful.
As for your connections, yes, you're right, the connections on your boiler need to go to 2 and 3 on the Heatlink and no loop to live.
Sorry it took a while to reply!
HI, I have an outside boiler with the programmer inside in the kitchen, but no existing thermostat, to i just replace the programmer with heat link then use the nest wirelessly? Thanks and great video.
+Niall Thornbury Yep that's it. The heatlink is what tells the boiler what to do (on/off), and the NEST talks to that wirelessy. Glad it helped.
This is my dilemma, the heat link completely switches my boiler off, meaning when it is off, I do not get hot water unless I switch the heat link on manual, i.e. continuous heat on the boiler, which is silly especially when it gets warm, so I turn the dial on the boiler to hot water only. I have to do this all the time on my ancient boiler. Pain.
Hi I have some twin and earth cable but just wondering where the black cable is from thanks
It's 3 core and earth cable. I had some off-cut from another job in the house but you can get flex with 3 core too.
Just bought one myself and pretty sure I need the same set-up. May contact you with an image of my terminals if thats ok? Thanks for thd vid.
Let me know what boiler it is and i can usually find the user manual online or an image!
@@charlieshooter it's replacing a Honeywell by the way...
BAXI Duo-tech combi 33 HE A, thanks a lot for the help. 👍
@@FullClipKilla So your boiler needs to be wired differently to the video! It is actually a bit simpler.
Your boiler manual does state that you need to power the Heatlink directly from the fused spur (wall switch near boiler) rather than wiring the live, neutral and earth to boiler itself.
The only wires you run to the boiler then, are from 2 and 3 on the Heatlink to bk1 and bk2 on the boiler. No live loop required on Heatlink.
Hope that helps.
@@charlieshooter that's great, thanks for the help. Much appreciated.
So you wire 1 and 3 from heat link to boiler and put link into 1 and 2 that right ?
No, I think you need to re-watch the video again. The link is between L and 2. There is no wire to 1. N, L and 3 link to the boiler.
Can you use it on older Worcester boiler too. ?
It depends on the connections and if there is already a programmer on board on the boiler.
Can the smart thermostats control hot water?
Yes they can if there is a hot water tank rather than a boiler. I've not done it myself.
Wondered if you could help? My boiler has the following wires - green/yellow, brown, blue into MAINS, the. 96 with a brown wire going into 1? Is it a similar format to putting a nest system in? I don’t think my combi boiler is looped?
What make and model is your boiler? That's probably easiest rather than trying to work out the wires.
Thank you for the great video
How about fuse spur please where did you connected in the boiler please!!
Glad you liked the video. The fused spur can come off the back of a socket on the ring main, although mine is now on it's own circuit from the consumer unit.
So that heatlink is a 3rd generation too? Just had a boiler with Nest installed and Nest isn't communicating. Looks like a 2nd gen heatlink next to the boiler, but my plumber says it doesn't make a difference?
Yes the Heatlink in the video is a 3rd Generation Heatlink. It's the one that came in the box with the Nest. I have no idea if the 2nd Generation had a different Heatlink sorry, as I've never installed one of those. I would always say to use the Heatlink that came with the Nest though just to make sure its compatible.
I want to install mine on the wall, and I have a power socket behind, does the wall mounting plate allow the cable to come from behind neatly ?
Thanks
Yes. The wall mounting bracket is used to attach the Nest to the stand so it's the same really. As long as you drill a hole in the wall to pull the wire through in the centre of the bracket you should be fine. Look out for a new video at some point showing how to wall mount it. I'll be moving mine soon....at last!
Top man 👍
So you have to supply your own power cable between the heat link and boiler ?
+JT1985 Unfortunately yes you do. In Wilkos you can buy it by the metre rather than a whole reel.
Does this make the Boiler keep starting and stopping which eventually damages the boiler?
No more than a normal thermostat would. This would never come on and off every few minutes, so there would be no need to worry about damaging the boiler.
Why do you need to link the incomes to common.. would it work without ? For some reason I keep blowing the fuse in my fuse spur
It may be that your boiler requires a slightly different connection method....where there are two connections at the boiler you don't loop the live in to no.2?
Thanks for the great video. My Worcester Heatslave 20/25 has Live and Neutral inside the control panel but it also has two connections for a room stat that are currently linked together as no room stat is fitted. Any idea's how I'd go about wiring the nest to work with it?
+Ben Duker Hi....thanks for watching. You would wire that similar to how I have in the video. Ive just looked at the wiring diagram for the Heatslave and as i understand it, you would take the L and N and wire them to the respective L and N on the Heatlink. Then wire 2 on the control board to 2 on the Nest and finally 3 goes to 3. Let me know how you get on.
Thank you for the reply and taking the time to look it up. I'll be installing the Nest in a couple of weeks so I'll report back how it goes.
I'm pleased to report I wired it up last night as per your instructions and it worked perfectly. Thank you once again. I used 0.75 flex, was that large enough?!
+Ben Duker Excellent! Glad to hear it all worked and glad to have helped. The flex you used will be fine. Thanks for watching.
Great to hear a fellow Welsh man. Cardiff I reckon. Anyway if it wasn't lockdown I'd get you round and set it up for me and I'd take down the Royal Oak. I digress, if it's hardwired via t1 & t2 does that mean it can't be used wirelessly? I'm getting this f6789kibg error code N80. Soo I can't use opentherm! Any ideas?
One city out I'm afraid! Just along the M4 from Cardiff!
If you wire the Nest in to T1 and T2, it just means that it takes it power from there. It will still work wirelessly.
Open Therm is another type of connection for the Heatlink to talk the boiler. The boiler must have Open Therm though.
@@charlieshooter thanks chief. Yeah it's wired in on opentherm. Can't get a wireless connection. Driving me nuts. Anyway I may just go back to it being an on off. I'll call nest later see if they can help all the best and stay safe.
A factory reset may be the best option? Keep safe.
Can you tell me if it works with with any kind of central heating or will it work only with certain ones
It will work with most I think. What did you have in mind?
@@charlieshooter i want to get one for mine, and i don't know if the google nest will work with any type of central heating or just specific ones...
My current wireless thermostat receiver only has two cables connected to the boiler: live & neutral. Will the nest thermostat work with only those two cables?
You need to follow these back to the boiler really to check what they're connected to, but yes, the Nest manual indicates it will work with this set up.
So do you find nest good thinking about fitting it
Yes, I still love it, and I've had it fitted a few years now. I find it pretty easy to use and reliable. Some people think it's a novelty being able to control your heating with an app, but I've found it really useful!
Really useful guide. Unfortunately our 30si has been boxed in and I can’t remove the DT10RF reciever which is preventing the signal getting through. Any suggestions?
+apkdigital I think you're going to have to try and unbox the boiler somehow. I can't think of any other way. You need access to connect the Heatlink. Sorry....
Damn. Thought that’s what you might say. The heat link is wired in already, I can get to the connections, it’s just that I can’t remove the cover to get the old receiver out
+apkdigital Can you unplug the multi plug from the back?
I can’t see enough to see where the plug should be. If it’s accessible I can probably get a screwdriver in there to unclip. I’ll check the manual diagram though to give me an idea....
Finally persevered and wiggled the case free enough to unplug the old receiver without removing the boxing - hurrah! Immediately the relay could talk to the boiler and everything is up and running. For anyone else - do keep trying.
Great video but bit confused, if I’m not wrong blue to N, brown to L and loop to 2 and last one black to 3 on nest control? Coz your wire connection not very clear.
+Suraj Thapa Yes that's exactly right. If you go to 6:50 in the video I do talk you through it. Thanks for watching.
Hi
We have a alpha 18 boiler with a separate immersion system hollywell slider control panel
Will this work with it
Yes the Nest should work with your boiler. Just had a look at the manual for the boiler and it looks like it is wired similarly to how I've done mine in the video. You would connect terminal 1 on your boiler to terminal 3 on the Heatlink. 👍🏼
What happens if the thermostat is unplugged or switched off- will it still switch on/off the heating?
No, it needs power, although it has got a little reserve on it I think. But if the power's gone off, the boiler won't be working anyway!
Do you have to do a loop from L to 5 if you are also connecting up the Water
+Darren Ettridge I haven't connected water because we don't have a hot water tank, but I have just checked the wiring diagram and yes you would loop L to 5.
Hi Charlie great video thanks, just had a question about your earth wire. How come you did not wire that into the Earth point in the heat link? Would love to know, cheers!
Hi Alex. It's a good question....basically the Nest instructions advise that an earth is only required if connecting the Heatlink to the Nest itself via T1 and T2. I would imagine it's because the Heatlink is all plastic....but that's my own opinion. Hope the video helped.
CharlieShooters KnowHow Ah I see thanks. I will be connecting my Nest using the T1 and T2 terminals, therefor I’ll need to Earth it then. Luckily I’ve prepped some 3 core cable like you, so I guess I’ll connect one end of the earth wire to the heat link, and the other end to my boiler’s earth coming from he mains input for the boiler.
Thanks for clearing that up, I’m all good to go now! Cheers Charlie!
Glad I could help. There should be an earth connection at your boiler specifically for a thermostat....if not, yes do as you said. Good luck with it all.
CharlieShooters KnowHow All my combo boiler seems to have is a choc block with Live, Neutral, Earth (here are mains for the boiler), then Common and Call for heat. No sign of dedicated earth for thermostat. But All earths go to the same place in the end so I guess al will be well.
Cheers
Yes that will be fine then. No problem. 👍🏼
My boiler is exactly the same and has a programmer installed previously, this appears to be to stopping the nest, any suggestions?
If the programmer is part of the boiler you may not be able to disconnect it, but some can be and then the Nest should work fine.
When you are connecting the wires at the heat link end, you don't actually mention into which slot the black (call for heating) wire goes. Could you please clarify? Thank you
Yes, to confirm, the black wire goes to "3" on the Heatlink.
Excellent video
Thanks, hope it helped out.
Hi Charlie, this video you have posted is really good, none of the others come close so! i just bought the Nest today from amazon and after watching your video i am determined to fit it myself! couple of quick questions, why on the heat link is the live looped to "2" ? Also, where is the best place to pick up the wires you used to connect from the boiler to the heat link? is there a difference in the composition of the varying wires, ie, neutral, live, the black cable / cs trigger, sorry may seem like complete noob questions ..... thanks in advance
+Jan Alexander de Swart Glad you liked the video and you're going to use it to install your Nest. It's quite simple if you follow my instructions.
The loop at no.2 is there to work like a switchable live. When the nest tells the Heatlink it needs heat, the Heatlink connects 2 and 3 creating a live return back to the boiler.
As for the wires, you can come by these in any hardware store...B&Q, Screwfix, even Wilkos. There is no difference in the composition of the wires. A normal bit of flex should do it.
Ok great, thanks for the response - i think there may be a small element of trial an error, is the system at any risk of the wrong wire is connected to the wrong connector?
Cool, i will check out these places, do i need a 5 core flex wire? one for Live, Neutral, the trigger cable, earthm and a spare? i can only see places to buy 3 or 5 core flex wires? Out of interest, in principle you could use the live "brown" wire as a neutral if you wished, it makes no difference?
+Jan Alexander de Swart Sorry for late reply. It's been a busy week! Follow the video and you will be fine. No trial and error then! You could damage the Heatlink if you connect the incorrect wires.
As for the flex. You could use 5 core and have a spare or you could even use 3 core and leave the earth off as there is no Earth on the Heatlink. Yes, in principle.....any colour can be used for anything, as long as you know where it's going the other end. I used the brown for live as that is the standard colour, to stop confusion.
Hi. Trying to install my Nest Thermostat into my Vaillant Eco 415 and have opened it up having followed the manual and it looks pretty straight forward the only issue is that the 3 & 4 which should be looped only has a single cable going into it. Am I still okay to wire it up and have one cable running to 3, one to 4 and then have these in the correlating numbers in the hub?
As far as I can tell from reading the manual for your boiler, you would link the 24v connections to 2 and 3 on the Heatlink. Hope that helps!
This video is the best guide for installing... I used it and installed my Nest with no issues. I'm back here a year later as I'm moving and need to remove the nest so I can take it with me. While I'll just "perform the steps in the reverse order" a "how to remove a nest" might be a good idea for a follow up video?
Thanks for the kind words! I'm glad the video has helped you out twice now! Good idea about removing it. I will bear that in mind for a future video! 👍🏼
Is this one different than the US one? Hello from Massachusetts US!
Hi from Wales! The Nest unit itself is the same, but the connections on the back are different.....as far as I know.
@@charlieshooter Ok thanks!
Hi pal. Can I use a 2.5mm2 cable? Thanks.
You should really use flex to connect it but I have had no issues with my set up as it it. You might find 2.5mm² is a bit too wide for the terminals....maybe.
How do you wire a two-wire zonevalve with a 24Volt adapter to the Heatlink?
I have got everything to work except for the zonevalve, this needs 24Volts.
Without the 24Volts my heater does not heat. Please help?
Thank you!
I've just been staring at various wiring diagrams for ages and I'm sorry but I'm a bit lost with it all. It seems to depend on how your system is set up. Have a look in the Nest instruction booklet and try to match up the system you have with one of the diagrams.
Sorry I couldn't be more help!
Does it have to always be plugged inn to the USB cable/stand? And how does that work if it's mounted on a wall? Cheers.
It does need a constant power supply so yes it needs to stay plugged in. If it's attached to the wall, you can either run the power lead to it (if you've got hollow walls, or power it from your boiler via the old thermostat wires.
@@charlieshooter thanks for the reply. 👍
@@charlieshooterfollowing up on this, I’ll be able to wire the other box to the WB boiler no problem - but I cannot see how I’ll get power to the thermostat itself. My current old thermostat runs on batteries and is about 4 meters from the boiler through a kitchen and a hallway and this is the best spot for the new nest when it arrives. Is there a guide specific to providing power when needing to wall mount the Nest thermostat when it’s several meters from the boiler?
Cheers.
I have actually recently done a video but not edited it all yet! It's quite straight forward. You just need to use 2 existing wires and connect them to T1 and T2 on the Heatlink, and then to the connections on the back of the Nest wall mount.
@@charlieshooter great! Yeah I think I’d realised the actual wiring connection will be straightforward - I’m more concerned about running several meters of cable in a tidy and concealed manner through two rooms. I much prefer the design and functionality of the nest but I think I’m going to have to switch to a hive for ease of wireless installation.
Alternatively, is there a specific type of wire I need (resistance rating, thickness etc)I if I did choose to install the Nest and run several meters of wire to connect it?
Hi Charlie, thanks a lot for this video. It's given me the knowledge to wire in the Heat Link but I wonder if I could trouble you for some advice on replacing my existing thermostat? It's a bit of a puzzle.
First, the boiler is an Ideal Logic 35 and the thermostat a Honeywell CM707. On the boiler I have T1 (black), T2 (grey), L (brown), N (blue) and Earth (green) all coming in on a 6 core cable (one wire looks like another grey, has been snipped and is not terminated?). I expected to open the battery operated Honeywell and find black and grey that I could reroute from the boiler to the Heatlink T1/T2 which outputs 12V but instead I have A (brown) and B (black) - Live and T1? What's could T2 (grey) be connected to?
Honeywell manual shows 2 different valid configs :
1) A to external Live and B to Boiler Live (with Boiler N to an external Neutral) - I'll be honest and say I don't know what this really means
2) A to T1 and B to T2
All I can think is that somewhere between the two there is a junction box where colours are being switched? Either Honeywell B (black) is being switched to Boiler L (brown) or Honeywell A (brown) is switching to Boiler T2 (grey)?
I'm going to get a multimeter tomorrow and test the voltage across A and B on the honeywell. Hopefully this tells me it's not 230V which means it's not connected to Boiler L?
I could also disconnect the grey to see if it has any effect on the Honeywell firing the boiler?
Any other suggestions?
Appreciate your time and I'd be happy to make a donation to you or charity if you can help. Thanks!
It looks like either yours is wired as in config 1) or, like you say, somewhere along the line they have gone through a junction box and the colours have switched. There are a lot of thermostats wired through a crazy looking junction box! It could be that it goes to some kind of Frost Thermostat in between even?
Is there no way you can follow them right through the wall? If there's a junction box it should be easily accessible.
As you suggest, you could check with a multimeter. You could try to run a new length of wire by taping it to the old one and pulling it through so at least then you know where you are or you could use the wire in place as long as it's disconnected from the boiler!
Whatever you do, PLEASE MAKE SURE it is only connected to T1 and T2 on the Heatlink before connecting the other end to the Nest....or bang goes the Nest!!
Thanks for the quick reply! It's reassuring to know I'm not totally misunderstanding and something is definitely amiss here. I don't think there will be a frost thermostat because nothing is connected to the frost terminals on the boiler. The 6 core cable that comes through the wall to the boiler is powering the boiler so I can't really pull that through because it must be connected to the mains somewhere. It's just occurred to me that it must pass through the isolator? I should maybe look behind that for clues... What are the chances Taylor Wimpey can provide a wiring diagram? Might be worth a try...
I will definitely be checking the wires are 12V before connecting the Nest :)
I may just have to live with powering the Nest by USB, remove the Honeywell and plaster over it. I can terminate A and B and leave them behind the wall, can't I?
Good luck with getting a wiring diagram from Taylor Wimpey! 😉
As long as you terminate the two wires behind where the Honeywell once was you'll be fine leaving them there. Best of luck with it!
Thanks for the video which I am using to install my recently purchased Nest, I also have a Greenstar 30si boiler so it was particularly helpful. My question is similar to one asked by Nick Miles a few months ago, in that I have the exact wiring as per your video, already in place going from my boiler to a Heatmiser Slimline thermostat. You mentioned to Nick that it was perfectly ok to replace the old thermostat with the heatlink using the existing wiring. I just want to confirm that if you then want to use the heatlink to provide power to the nest thermostat you just run two wires from the T1 & T2 on the heatlink to the T1 & T2 on the thermostat, also if I did not want to see wiring running from one to the other, could I fix the thermostat on the wall right next to the heatlink or does it have to be a certain distance away
+Jane Turvey Thanks for watching and glad you found it useful!
To power the Nest without the power adaptor, yes, you would run 2 wires from T1 and T2 on the Heatlink to T1 and T2 on the Nest.
I'm not sure you can install the Nest right next to the Heatlink as the instruction manual states to leave 30cm around the Heatlink. It might be fine, but aesthetically I don't think it would look that great with the Heatlink next to the Nest. Can you maybe put the Heatlink the other side of the wall in another room? Or intercept the wires as they leave the boiler, putting the Heatlink there and using the rest of the wire run to connect the T1 and T2 connections?
Thank you......you have been very helpful
Was the charger and cable included with the nest?
I am just getting Nest 3rd gen with my electricity renewal plan and I am not sure if I need to order it separately...
I have seen that the stand needs to be purchased separately but I am not sure about the charger and cable...
The charger and cable come in the box with the Nest, but the stand is usually a separate purchase.....although some places (Screwfix I know of) are offering a free stand at the moment.
Mine didn't come with any additional power supply. I bought mine from toolstation this week.
@@davekirkham5577 Really? They've changed that then, because when I bought mine (which, granted, was in 2016!) it came with an adaptor and wire. You sure it's not hidden at the bottom of the box? 😉
Hi thanks for posting I have a simlar boiler but mine is a WB Greenstar 29cdi combi. Just one question. Why did you put a loop connection between live and number 2 on the heat link? Do i need to do the same, what happens if i dont put a loop in?
may thanks
mo
+Mo Hussain Hi...hope you found it useful. Both Worcester Bosch and NEST advise to put the loop in. Basically it works as a switchable live and when the NEST tells the Heatlink it needs heat, the Heatlink connects 2 and 3 creating a live return back to the boiler. That's it in a nutshell.
Excellent thanks. Will complete mine this w/e - your post was very helpful.
Thank you. Very clear and help me 1000% .
That's great to hear! Thanks for leaving a comment.
Hi Charlie,Thanks so much for your video, I have a six years old Biasi Riva Advance HE boiler, could I just simply connect L to L (heatlink), N to N(heatlink), then 1 to 2 (heatlink), 3 to 3 (heatlink)? also I have a Honeywell T6360B , could I use the wires from there? L to L, N to N? it would be my weekend diy poject. thanks a lot.
+ying ji xu Yes, you've got it. Ive just checked the manual for your boiler and that is how it should be wired, exactly as you say. If you want you can use 2 of the existing wires going to the Honeywell Thermostat to connect T1 and T2 (on the Heatlink) directly to your Nest. But the Nest must ONLY be powered by connecting to those OR by using the adaptor provided. No other way!
Good luck with your project!
thanks mate, I really appreciate you look into it for me!
Can I deactivate the nest/WiFi and use the heating/boiler the old fashioned manual way if I want to ?
Yes , I don't see why not. Although I don't know why you would want to?!
I didn't install it and don't want it
@@misshollywood3255 Fair enough! Yes, it can be removed, but the old controls may not be there anymore!
Hi Charlie thinking of buying a nest. At the moment I have a Honeywell wireless programmer and a ideal boiler . So my boiler connection should be ok just replace Honeywell receiver with the Nest receiver, but this is where I hit a little problem on your insulation you fit the neg and put a link from the live and then put your switched live. on my Honeywell I just have the supply from the boiler supply then from the external stat connection in the boiler blue and brown to the other two connection in the Honeywell. Any ideas on which wire to use as the switch wire . Iv just finished the night shift so this might not make sense in the cold light of day
It does depend on the Ideal Boiler that you have. Some are wired as in the video, others are wired slightly different. Yours SOUNDS like the latter. It is actually a bit simpler. Connect the L and N on the boiler to the L and N on the Heatlink. There should be 2 thermostat connections on the boiler (the blue and brown in your case) and these need to go to connectors 2 and 3 on the Heatlink. It should be that simple! Hope that helps.
Thanks for the quick response.
The only thing which concerns me with the nest is the learning part. Both my wife and I work funny hours. If I leave at 6 in the morning I would not put the heating on. I wouldn’t like it to think ok 5 am heating on. I’m from Yorkshire a bit tight for that. Lol
Once again thanks.
I wouldn't worry about it...I let it set it's own schedule at first. Since then I have set my own and it now comes on and off as I want it to!
I’ve got an old manual wired thermostat in my lounge. So I take it I don’t need to wire the nest to the boiler. A Worcester condenser boiler. Is it a matter of replacing and wiring the nest on the wall wired into the current thermostat wiring.
Unfortunately not. The Heatlink has to be hard wired to the boiler. The Nest then communicates wirelessly to the Heatlink to tell it to turn the heating on/off. The Nest will not work without the Heatlink.
The Nest can go where your old thermostat was, but it either needs to be powered via the USB adaptor, or via T1 and T2 on the Heatlink. This is where your previous thermostat wiring might come in handy though, as you could use this to link the Nest to T1 and T2 on the Heatlink, rather than run new? Make sure it's not attached to anything else in between though!
So what do you do with your old RTV's on radiators?
They stay...the Nest only acts like a normal thermostat.
@@charlieshooter gotcha thanks. What about the programmer I have?
That's not needed, because the Nest is a programmer too really.
Great video, but I've a week question - looking at the wiring specs in the installation guide my initial thought was that the heat link was wired in series with the 230V mains inlet to the boiler, and the relay would switch the whole boiler on and off depending on whether or not heat was required. This didn't seem right to me as the boiler wouldn't purge after shutdown and it'd cut power to the CH feed pump as soon as the heat link opened the relay
Looking at how you've wired it though it's in parallel, iIs this correct? The wiring diagrams for my Vokera combi say that I should wire the heat link the way you have but the Google instructions say the opposite. Thanks for any help!
+devandy From looking at the installation manual wiring diagram for your boiler you would wire it similar to how I have but not exactly the same. Wire L and N on the boiler to L and N on the Heatlink then connect 2 and 3 on the Heatlink to the CN5 terminal on the boiler. So the one connection at CN5 goes to 2 and the other connection at CN5 goes to 3. That should be it. No need to put the live loop in like i have. Thanks for watching. Ps you certainly don't want the boiler turning completely off!
charlieshooter outstanding. I'd spent all night looking into it and finally got it figured out, but very much obliged to you for your help, sir!
+devandy No problem. Glad I've been able to help so many people with their installations!
What do you do if you don’t want exposed wiring?
At the Heatlink or the Nest Thermostat?
@@charlieshooter at the Nest Thermostat. I was considering fixing to the wall but how would you supply 12V power with plugging in to wall? You would need a transformer somewhere I assume?
@@OBS3RVE Well....it's funny you should ask because after all these years, i have only recently done exactly that. I have recorded it but not got it edited yet!
You can either put it where the old thermostat was and use existing wires, or if there is power the other side of the wall you could drill straight through? Other than that, if you are able to, run some new wiring for it from Heatlink. I did the latter, but we had totally gutted the room!
@@charlieshooter I’m currently mid way through renovating my house so will be able to chase the cables in
@@OBS3RVE It will look so much neater, good luck with the renovation.
Hi, I’ve just purchased a 3rd gen nest but it didn’t come with a power cable! Can I use a phone cable instead?
Also, my boiler is a Valliant ecotec 430 plus. I don’t have a thermostat but i do have a separate heating and hot water control unit, do I disconnect the controller and replace it with the heat link?
Thanks
Did you buy it brand new? It should definitely have come with a power cable if you did. You could connect it to the Heatlink using T1 and T2. The charger does use a micro USB cable, but just be careful you use the right adaptor.
As for connecting it up, yes, you would remove the separate control unit and connect the Heatlink. 👍🏼
Thanks. yes bought it direct from Amazon🤷🏻♂️ just checked the wiring and all wires from boiler pump controller ect go through a Wiring box so controller wires don’t go direct to boiler?
@@julietweems4127 If I was you I would be contacting Amazon and asking them to send a replacement!
Looking for some help here, can I install a room thermostat (Nest 3rd gen) in the cellar where there is no heating? If not, do I need to extend the wires or something?
If you install a thermostat in a room with no heating (radiators) then it wouldn't work because it would never heat up and therefore wouldn't switch the boiler off.
@@charlieshooter I found out it comes in two pieces. The base will go in the cellar and the interface can go in a room. The only problem now is which room to put out in as there are tenants in each room other than mine but mine is the furthest away so I'm hoping it's not too far for it to connect via radio or whatever it uses. I'm hoping WiFi but I think it's radio.
@@analogdistortion It should reach, the range is pretty far I think.
@@charlieshooter And what about powering it, will it just run off a microusb phone charger?
Yes that is the easiest method of powering the Nest.
Can you replace the existing boiler programmer with the hive nest heat link ?
Yes, the Nest Heatlink would replace the boiler programmer.
Cheers. I’m relatively good with DIY and do a lot of research prior to undertaking any project. Watched many videos on installing Nests and they all seem to be boilers without programmers
I think if your boiler did have a programmer installed, you would have to remove it, or at least disconnect the wiring for it.
Any ideas why my current programmer doesn’t have any connections to Off ports for Boiler or Hot Water tank ? May have to just get an electrician.
I don't know sorry. I don't know a lot about boiler programmers. If you Google the "name of your boiler" and then "installation manual" you may find some info.