Been doing pipe fittings, sweating fittings for almost 50 years. Mostly just what my dad taught me. Never had an issue but ran into a problem “leaker” pipe fittings recently. Used the teflon and blue block successfully. Appreciate your post 👍
Disagree with covering the first thread with Teflon tape. Keep the first thread clean for an easy start. I agree with you and also do not run the tape all the way up the thread, it's just a waste of tape as those threads will never enter the joint. The other reason for not cover the first thread is any tape hanging over the first thread and end of the pipe WILL break loose and enter the piping system. In some cases this might not be a problem but in others you never know where it might travel to. Solenoid valves in dishwashers or ice makers are two examples where you don't want fragments of tape to be.
You only tried 3, didn't actually pressure test any of them for a comparison test. You didn't try any UK available or oatey products. Please do a better video, also why didn't you bother putting the tape on properly.
I have had nothing but failures with teflon tape and struggled with leaking pipe joints for years. I thank you for exposing how to successfully sealing pipe thread fittings.
Long before Teflon, spool lampwick and Hercules pipe joint compound (Pro Dope) were the go too products. They worked when I was coming up in the trade and they’re bullet proof today! Thanks for checking out the video, regards. Bob.
never used pipe dope....wrap it in the right direction ...less is more...on old fitting I put a little never seize on the threads then cover with teflon tape
Excellent video, very informative. When I built my house about 30 years ago I hired a plumber friend to do the plumbing and I worked along with him. I had some experience sweating copper and working with PVC but by the time the house was finished I had experience with gas line installation, putting in a boiler, running a threading machine, codes, you name it. I think I could have become a plumbers apprentice. One thing he taught me that has stuck through the years is when allowed (not on gas pipe) to use Teflon tape and then pipe dope over it. He said doing this will just about guarantee you'll never have a leak and I never have so it was interesting to see that you do the same thing. The only time I ever had problems doing this was when I had to replace a leaking expansion tank on my boiler. The expansion tank is threaded into an air scoop which is made from thick cast iron. Teflon is a great lubricant and it allowed me to over tighten the expansion tank pretty easily and put a hair line crack in the scoop. I was told later by another plumber that he never uses Teflon tape on cast iron for just this reason, a lesson he learned the hard way himself.
Very good video. One comment though. I am a retired instrument technician from a nuclear power plant. We stopped using teflon tape in the plant due to technicians installing teflon tape to the very end of the threads (the narrow end). For a while we could use pipe dope only. Because the threads are tapered, the first and / or second thread do very little in the sealing process. What we saw occurring was pieces of the teflon from the narrow end would become loose and go into the system (water, steam, whatever system it was on) and clog something down the line. We call it foreign material in a nuke. Not good for the plant. I noticed in your video you like to go to the very end and even some of the tape was over the end of the pipe somewhat. That was something we had to be very careful not to do and I follow the same practice when I do any plumbing work. Another note. I was watching your video because I am installing a water system in my house. It uses plastic fittings (male and female) and I am using brass fittings to join the house to the new water system. I encountered some leaking problems and was wondering if you have any thoughts on sealing those kind of unions. Thanks, Jerry
On brass to plastic connections as a rule on waste lines (low or no pressure), I'll use a good quality Teflon and the Mega Lock joint compound together. On pressurized water line's I'llsubstitute the Blue Block instead Mega Lock. In extreme conditions, I use the spool lampwick and Blue Block.
I just had to pull (lean over) a newly installed fiberglass shower stall. Teflon only had slow drips. Teflon and thread sealer did the trick. Something so damn simple biting me on the butt, but your video effort was well worth it. Thanks.
Use it on any threaded seal connection. Drain pvc, drain brass, drain copper, iron natrural gas, etc. If its threaded...use some pipe thread sealant. Its not for sealing, its for anti-galling of threaded connections. Remember that. But that means sometimes you need it to get something tight enough to not leak. And without it you may have threads galling and not allowing full seating of your connection.
Definitely learned from you about the pipe thread sealants. I am replacing a PRV. I put Teflon tape on the threads. The PRV is a brass fitting. The locknuts are brass from existing hardware on collar/tailpiece assembly. The bottom locknut seals. The top locknut is not completely flush, so the locknut does not bottom out correctly. Never used to paste before, but I am going to try it. If it works per a man of your experience, this is going to be a fun installation. This problem had me stumped. I lacked insight on the solution. It's a residential pressure reducing valve so I will set the psi at 60--65, but first I got to make sure the connections are water tight seal. Looking forward to plumbing.
Thanks for the tips. I put in a new electric water heater and your videos were a great resource. I used Megaoc for the first time in combination with the teflon tape. Not a leak when I was finished.
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Great Video! I agree with you 100% use both Teflon and Dope! I’ve had multiple jobs with a small leak when my guys have just used one. Nothing more frustrating than to redo a job when it could have been solved with both
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@@paulcampbellsr.9818 you were asking where bobsplumbing is? Or where sandra is ? Sorry I thought you were asking about the guy who is doing the videos
Yes, threads are imperfect, if you screw something (especially larger things) there is a bit of loose wiggle. Fine thread, naturally less. Good video, more to it than I thought.
Excellent video. Thanks for the detailed explanations. I wrestled with leaks installing an outdoor water spigot. Teflon tape alone didn't cut it. I ended up using Teflon tape and Real-Tuff Thread Sealant. Totally did the trick. Thanks much!
Thanks for the video. I only have to put a fitting on the end of hose with brass fittings on the ends, but now I know what to use. Hopefully the teflon will keep it from getting corroded together too.
With threaded brass fittings, leave ~2.5 threads showing on the male connection as a general guide to avoid over-tightening the softer brass. Brass threads can warp, crush or distort if over-tightened.
Beginner here, though I have replaced kitchen sink faucets. I'm about to tackle replacing my bath/shower faucet and this helped a lot! I did see thread hanging off the older pipes and was wondering what it was. Now I know!
Bob great video ...you speak clearly and slow enough for guy who is very new to plumbing ...looking forward to running more of your Happy Plumbing Videos!
Thanks so much! You took my small little job too another level. Simply I have to put a 90 Into my gas cook top. I was just going to use the gas teflon tape. I have two elbows to Install, going out to buy pipe dope. You rock!
Love the Megalock, discovered it by accident at Home Depot, just using it for water fittings around the house. Back in the late 60's/early 70's I worked for a gas utility, they exclusively used the old yellow Rectorseal. No teflon in it in those days. I always felt it just lubricated the joints, with high pressure mains and gas at 75 or so PSI, how could compound hold back the gas, it's really the compression of the pipe and fitting. We always called it pipe dope, never heard anyone call it compound.
Hey Bob. Great video. I know you don't need tape or dope on compression fittings (brass ferrules or rubber o-rings), but I like to put some tape on the threads because it seems to help control corrosion making it easier to take apart later if needed.
I'll use Teflon on pipe threads in combination with pipe joint compound. I tend not to use it on compression or flare fittings but will lubricate the threads with pipe joint compound to make up the nuts easily.
Thank you, Bob, Spot-on terrific info and also a nice walk down memory lane. I'm 63 and my father (420 Steamfitters) started me off with Pro Dope and lamp wick, which is still nice for some old hot-water radiator repairs! Also, great review of different type products and specific applications which is more of what is important instead of debating (as I often see) whether Hercules, Rectorseal, Blue Monster, etc. is the best?! All of the aforementioned companies make terrific products, but knowing how to use those products is the key! Passing this on to friends.... Cheers
I like real tuff over Megalock but like you said it is difficult to clean for sure, almost like a white tar if that makes any sense. I’m probably using way to much. I think they lubricate more than they seal imo making it easier to tighten the fittings and also makes loosening in the future much much easier.
Very informative, thanks. Just to refine the overall issue, tapered threaded pipe connection is a throw-back technology that IMO remains with us only because it continues to provide excellent mechanical joint strength at low cost. But its inability to seal has been a design flaw since its inception as your video addresses fairly well. Augmenting the description I would add that the actual problem is primarily from the mismatch between the peaks/valleys of engagement. The major diameter of the female thread HAS TO BE be larger than the major diameter of the male thread and, congruently, the minor diameter of the female thread HAS TO BE larger than the minor diameter of the male thread. (I say "has to be" because if there was an interference of either condition the rest of the two thread surfaces would not even touch.) The two resulting gaps at the peak/valley clearances then create two helical paths for a leak even if the rest of the thread surfaces match up perfectly. It is those helical paths that have to be plugged up I would also add that male pipe threads on commercially produced pipes/nipples/parts are cut single point on a CNC screw machine that provides a much closer tolerance thread than anything you can hope to get with one of those multi insert manual pipe dies.
Used Teflon tape first, then rectaseal, liked the smell of the pipe dope, but very rare if never leaked in my years of plumbing heating . The problem with Teflon and dope with Teflon, oil pump mfgs. Advise against Teflon, I personally saw a oil pump leak oil from a hanging furnace that the installer used plain Teflon tape. On water the combos can’t be beat. Very good video.
I put a quick connect on a well pressure tank and need to know the best way to clean and make a good seal. this is the second time using this quick connect. It's 1 years old. Thanks
Thank you for the great video and info, i have to seal a tank at suction line that is leaking and the Austrian company that built it used hemp sealant but is there another way to seal this joint if i do not have hemp?
Blue block with teflon tape works in both new and old pipes because the new ones come with all kind of impurities also, you don't want to take any risk. Of course for the gas pipes only blue block on the male thread.
Thanks Bob for a great video! What are your thoughts on anaerobic sealants and how long do you have to wait before turning on the gas after using an anaerobic sealant ie to allow it to cure properly etc
When working with low pressure gas or drainage fittings I'll turn it on immediately, if I have a questionable joint on a water line I may wait a few hours before turning it back on. For the most part in everyday situations, everything goes live immediately.
Will this take 1200 F heat ??? I will be putting the 316 and 304 SS mix pipe inside my woodstove. This will be the secondary burn part of the stove. The pipe I am using are 3M pressure grade. All overkill but the price was right so that is what I used Bob. Thanks for your time Sir. vf@@BobsPlumbingVideos
Thanks! I think I now know why my 1.25 to 1. inch reducer is leaking/dripping on my pressure tank diy hook up. I over-torqued it and used only metal pipe dope. I will get a new reducer and use teflon with teflon sealant, and not over-torque.
When I changed over from galvanised pipes to copper tubing 35 years ago, I installed a permanent pressure gauge on the cold water line in basement laundry. Many older homes in Vancouver, B.C. Canada where I live do not have a pressure regulator valve. The typical pressure in my neighbourhood was about 80 psi, dropping somewhat in the summer. A few weeks ago it was going up as high as 120 psi, so I decided to install a Watt pressure regulator on the 3/4 copper entry. My first two attempts with teflon tape only on a tapered brass fitting dripped, and on my third try with even more tape it still leaked, and now a union on the line was dripping. I found your video, bought the Canadian MegaLoc, which has English and French instructions, followed your directions and both connections are completely dry. What I really noticed as I torqued with the MegaLoc and teflon combo, was how smooth and easily it tightened compared to teflon only. Pressure is now set at 60 psi. Sure glad I found your video. Angus.
Thank you for this video. I will be installing a new boiler using black pipe for the supply and return headers. Your video was a great help in making sure I seal the joints correctly. Very well done.
FWIW: re 4:08 The "tapered pipe thread" is designed to provide excellent mechanical rigidity & good seal despite inconsistent tap & die 'sizes', but the abrupt end & reversal of the tapping motion, provides a fractured 'seam' across the threads where the cutting edges of the tool stopped. That little step, is where the 'leak' can occur. Normally, if the fitting is well tightened, the metal will be slightly stretched & the 'seam' will also be smooshed smooth enough to be gas tight. If you look, you can easily see, and sometimes you can feel the 90 or 120 degree 'click' as the seams pass each other.
I learned with lamp wick and pro dope in 1998. I had an old school plumbing instructor. Still my preferred method. I've used mega lock here and there. With the tape I learned to put the dope on first then the tape over it. Real Touff I mainly used for fire sprinkler systems. Blue block makes a mess, it's like paint and gets everywhere. I didn't do much gas piping, but I used it exclusively for oil, from the tank piping, oil filter, firomattic valves, up to the burner.
started out as a maintenance mechanic in the early 80's never saw it in threads.....would wrap leaky condensate fittings with new mop strings until we could shut down
Thanks bro. I liked and subscribed. Your video was very informative I am currently doing a lot of plumbing around the house and I am trying to soak up all the knowledge I can
Great video, thanks for sharing! But still have a question... I have a shower head arm that is a little loose when oriented in the correct direction. If I try to make one more revolution the arm gets so tight it only makes it 3/4 of the way around. Wondering what I can do to ensure that there is no leak since this is a remodel and there is no way to see if there is a slight drip inside the wall
In a situation like that, I'll remove the arm and double down on the amount of Teflon. Instead of 5 or 6 times around I'll go 10 or 12 times around. It will usually make up the difference and you won't have to make that final rotation.
Dope then tape. Fills in the threads better and comes out much cleaner. I'm a Fire Sprinkler Fitter and I usually do about 5 wraps. We use either Teflon dope or C5A copper anti cease along with Teflon tape
Excellent video! Can you give me any advice on what I should use with fittings that go into a steam generator? I picked up a bunch of these Hoffman steamers that I need to rebuild, and I've never worked with steamers before. Also, while taking these things apart I notice a lot of the fittings are corroded to hell and back. I actually had one of the nipples snap in half while trying to take it out of the vessel! I don't want these things to corrode again if I can help it, so any advice on how to prevent that in the future? Sorry if these are all basic questions; this is all rather new to me!
I would most likely use a combination of either the old style spool lamp-wick or blue monster or mega teflon tape and the blue block sealant. I find the Blue block the most reliable sealant when working with older corroded fittings. And if possible clean out your fitting with a sharp pipe tap to insure a good fit between the male and female fittings.
Gey man love the video. What's your opinion on rector seal T2 or 5 doft set? Thats what I use exclusively and hercules teflon. Use rector seal for everything
Bob I use the Loctite 565 to replace a shower head arm because the thread is not that great anymore, but the Loctite does not dry up. It's been 48 hours already. I used it on copper with the shower arm
Hi there, awesome video. I am installing a diesel slip tank in my pickup. I assume I should use a thread sealant with PTFE? I have a under tonneau cover slip tank therefore the pump will be below the highest level of diesel fuel, thus putting a lot of pressure on the pump connection where it screws into the NPT on the slip tank. Should I use teflon tape and thread sealant or just thread sealant with PTFE?
Thanks Bob for a great video! Which pipe dope would you use for heating element threads in a steam boiler tank application? Does boiler/steam app fall in the category of gas so use blue block? Looking forward to your opinion. Many thanks.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos 1) just so I fully understand, by 'blue block', do you mean : - 'blue Teflon tape + BLOCK pipe dope'" ? or - BLOCK pipe dope'" only will work fine? 2) Lastly, I assume using BLOCK is no problem should the water boiler heating element ever need replacing (unscrew threads again in future if needed) ? Thx .
First time viewer. Bob, you are one of the best! It's nice to see a pro do the teaching. I'll be using your tricks going forward :) Happy New Year bud!!!
Over-tightening can produce water or gas title seal initially. Brass expands and contracts with temperature. This often creates hairline fractures that can be a bear to trouble shoot. The video is good advice.
I learned a ton watching this and love your attention to aesthetics and detail - thanks for a great post. On different note, your post made me think how fun it would be as a layperson to be at a convention and listen to the debates you guys must have about stuff like the myriad personal styles of joinery and applying teflon tape. Love it.
I use everyone of these products, and typically continue use of water and or waste immediately. Exception would be possibly with a real bad thread using Blue-Block, I might wait 24 hrs if that's at all possible. Most times it's not!
Great information video. Q. What about PVC threaded mixed with metal threaded fittings? I've had water lines that were being used for well house, sprinkler and had mixed success. I was taught as you mentioned cleaning the threads with a brush first but even had leaks. I have used T. tape, T. tape with joint compound and still have a few issues now and then. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for sharing.
I hate plastic to metal threads....teflon and paste.....I know you're not supposed to do it but that's the only time I'd put a little paste on the internal threads of the steel fitting
I do not use Teflon tape, period. Yes, it is quicker and cleaner, but if leak prevention is important, I only use threaded pipe sealant, and specifically Harveyseal formula 55. I just finished installing an 80 gallon air compressor and plumbed it with copper pipe, some sweated joints and most with threaded fittings to accommodate the ball valve and regulator. 175 PSI and no leaks!
Thanks for the advice! I only put Teflon tape on a new kitchen sink shut off valve and it wouldn't stop leaking. I'm going to get some sealant tonight!
What’s up Bob.? There was an old pipe sealant you mentioned. I’m not sure if it was this video or another video.! It was in a red container and sometime you would have to heat up the pipe in order to loosen it.! Do you know what pipe sealant I’m talking about.?
Do you have a video or, know of a video that shows how to connect a PVC schd 40 female or male adapter to an elbow on metal pipe? Awesome video, Bob. Thanks so much.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos and only to prevent abrassion on the plastic part and prevent sticking, so not as much as metal-to-metal, right? BTW, one can really see you know your stuff. On the other hand I like the looks of neatly wound teflon tape sticking out - it looks clean and done to me when checking later (but only on ugly plastic or metal hidden joints, not the fancy visible shiny pipes).
This is the best video I have seen on this subject! Is is best just to use Blue Block on everything just to be safe? Keep up the great content, I'm subbed!
I use Blue Block on all gas work and problem waste and water leaks. It can get messy, I'm confident using Mega-Loc as my everyday go-to thread sealant. Thanks for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
Blue block sounded great but it's 3 weeks from Amazon and Home Depot doesn't stock it. Ebay only has 3 and they all added $8 dollar shipping charge. Update 15 minutes later: just ordered home delivery from Home Depot and it gets here in 5 days and total cost is only $8 for 8 oz. Same product on Ebay cost you $24. Amazon says at least 3 weeks and charge is $17. Wow !!! Home Depot is AWESOME.
I have always used Megaloc but want to try a new product just for fun. Would you say the standard Blue Monster thread sealant or the newer Blue Monster with PTFE pipe thread sealant which is white rather than blue would be better? Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks for checking out the video, I would say the standard Blue Monster w/ Teflon tape will get the job done. I currently still use the Megaloc w/ Teflon. I wanted to love Real-Tuff which is white, but it's to messy I.M.H.O!
I'm having a difficult time with a Compressed air system, it's only 125 psi, but tape and the thread sealer i have is making bubbles. You said the tape and sealant was perfect for liquid, but that you only use the blue block when working with gas, but from what I've read natural gas is only a couple of psi at most. So which method should i use for Compressed air, which is higher pressure than the 2 examples toy covered
Yes, gas is low pressure and here in NYC we're not permitted to use Teflon tape on gas joints. I use the Blue Block as an insurance advantage because it sets semi hard which forms a gasket type seal. If you're having issues with the Teflon and Blue block, I would go with the spool lamp-wick. Starting a thread or two from the end of the pipe working it back about 3/4 of the way, followed by the Blue block. You can also place a round or two of Teflon over the lamp-wick, then the Blue block.
I don't use Teflon tape with threaded PVC pipe. The bulk of the tape makes the joints harder to thread, and the soft threads can be damaged during installation. I get good results using only RectorSeal No. 5 sealant. Although the directions say it can be pressurized immediately after threading I wait and let it set at least a half hour or more.
I used Oatey Great White Pipe Joint Compound with 1" pvc to 1" galvanized female and it leaks, very slow drip. Is #5 that much better than the Oatey pipe dope or try teflon tape? I have the thicker blue Gorilla teflon tape and standard white tape.
@@ridemfast7625 If you want to use tape try the thin kind and only use 3 or 4 winds. Then apply enough RectorSeal No. 5 over the tape so that some excess is squeezed out during installation. Wipe off the excess and you are done! I don't think Oatey is available in my area but since you've tried it and it's leaking you should probably stop using it. Or maybe you accidentally stripped the threads. Anyway, RectorSeal No. 5 without tape works fine for me!
Hi, thank you for this video. could you please comment on what you think about shark bite products. If they are safe to use for pipe fittings.Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I need to unscrew pipes that have pipe dope applied to them. How can I safely remove copper water supply lines attached with pipe dope before replacing them with braided water supply lines? Is there a specific technique to use with copper lines, water supply lines, and PVC?
Most important is to hold back on the fitting you're attempting to remove the pipe from. Remove counter clockwise and hold back in a clockwise position.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks, Bob. I'll make sure to do so. So, it should unscrew without a need for vinegar or wd-40 to dissolve the pipe dope/pipe joint compound? One final question is if you think it's wise to install a Delta faucet with PEX water supply tubing. I was hoping for braided supply lines but found out Delta only uses PEX tubing on this item. I would rather not cut it and risk adjoining the ferrules incorrectly. Is it okay to loop the PEX tubing once before attaching it to the water supply valves? Or should I consider finding another faucet that has braided supply lines that can be looped?
Question: I have a connection on my hot water heater that has a male metal to female Pvc pipe thread conection that has what looks like a red sealant in the connection that was installed in 2020. The inspector that came for my insurance renewal said I have to replace it because it was rusty. Could you explain what it could be so I can convince them there is not a problem. Thank you
Thanks! Good info, other than the part where you to threaded the nipple through the back side of the die when explaining taper around 2:00. But why did it turn in so far by hand on the wrong side of the taper?? Idk
First time here. Truly an outstanding video. Very comprehensive. Connecting a gas dryer today for a (male) friend. He spent all of yesterday trying to do this without success. Unless im missing something, i made the connections in less than 5 minutes. His big fear is that the tapered male ends are not supposed to screw into a non-tapered females. I bought a 1/2" to 3/8" connector and used it between the dryer and gas line. Everything fit nicely. He raised his voice and said "dont use white tape on gas lines." Is that true? He also insists that the tapered/rounded male ends are not to be screwed into the gas lines. I dont think thats the case. Hes convinced the females have to be shaped like the males or gas will leak. I disagree.
If you're referring to the flexible gas connectors, the male portion which screws into the female nut on the connector is not pipe thread and should not be screwed into an I.P.S. fitting. We're not allowed to use Teflon tape on gas in New York. Just pipe joint compound is all you need.
Excellent video. I love that fact that you take an extra few seconds to wipe your joints and make them look neat. Also although you didn't touch on it in the video I see sprinkler fitters using the paste and then a few layers of Teflon tape over it.
Robert Meier Thank you for checking out the video! Always wipe my joints down, the difference between a professional and a novice. Some use the tape first followed by the paste and visa versa. I guess it’s personal preference. As long as it doesn’t leak! Regards, Bob.
It’s actually better at least in my understanding that Teflon tape then sealant after, if you use the sealant then the tape the tape makes a balloon of sorts and it just gets pushed out of the fitting.
Been doing pipe fittings, sweating fittings for almost 50 years. Mostly just what my dad taught me. Never had an issue but ran into a problem “leaker” pipe fittings recently. Used the teflon and blue block successfully. Appreciate your post 👍
Good stuff! Thanks for sharing!
Disagree with covering the first thread with Teflon tape. Keep the first thread clean for an easy start. I agree with you and also do not run the tape all the way up the thread, it's just a waste of tape as those threads will never enter the joint. The other reason for not cover the first thread is any tape hanging over the first thread and end of the pipe WILL break loose and enter the piping system. In some cases this might not be a problem but in others you never know where it might travel to. Solenoid valves in dishwashers or ice makers are two examples where you don't want fragments of tape to be.
Yep. Just dug up my gas line and every single joint had excess tape hanging inside the pipe.
It seems all sealants are good
You only tried 3, didn't actually pressure test any of them for a comparison test. You didn't try any UK available or oatey products. Please do a better video, also why didn't you bother putting the tape on properly.
Tape is literally only to make the threads go together smooth 😅
@@BuiltfortheRide not true. It takes up space between the threads.
I have had nothing but failures with teflon tape and struggled with leaking pipe joints for years. I thank you for exposing how to successfully sealing pipe thread fittings.
Long before Teflon, spool lampwick and Hercules pipe joint compound (Pro Dope) were the go too products. They worked when I was coming up in the trade and they’re bullet proof today! Thanks for checking out the video, regards. Bob.
Sounds like you were probably applying the teflon against the threads rather than with the threads(clockwise)
never used pipe dope....wrap it in the right direction ...less is more...on old fitting I put a little never seize on the threads then cover with teflon tape
Excellent video, very informative. When I built my house about 30 years ago I hired a plumber friend to do the plumbing and I worked along with him. I had some experience sweating copper and working with PVC but by the time the house was finished I had experience with gas line installation, putting in a boiler, running a threading machine, codes, you name it. I think I could have become a plumbers apprentice. One thing he taught me that has stuck through the years is when allowed (not on gas pipe) to use Teflon tape and then pipe dope over it. He said doing this will just about guarantee you'll never have a leak and I never have so it was interesting to see that you do the same thing. The only time I ever had problems doing this was when I had to replace a leaking expansion tank on my boiler. The expansion tank is threaded into an air scoop which is made from thick cast iron. Teflon is a great lubricant and it allowed me to over tighten the expansion tank pretty easily and put a hair line crack in the scoop. I was told later by another plumber that he never uses Teflon tape on cast iron for just this reason, a lesson he learned the hard way himself.
Thank you Rich, much appreciated. Bob.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos what do you suggest on stainless to stainless or stainless to brass?
Very good video. One comment though. I am a retired instrument technician from a nuclear power plant. We stopped using teflon tape in the plant due to technicians installing teflon tape to the very end of the threads (the narrow end). For a while we could use pipe dope only. Because the threads are tapered, the first and / or second thread do very little in the sealing process. What we saw occurring was pieces of the teflon from the narrow end would become loose and go into the system (water, steam, whatever system it was on) and clog something down the line. We call it foreign material in a nuke. Not good for the plant.
I noticed in your video you like to go to the very end and even some of the tape was over the end of the pipe somewhat. That was something we had to be very careful not to do and I follow the same practice when I do any plumbing work.
Another note. I was watching your video because I am installing a water system in my house. It uses plastic fittings (male and female) and I am using brass fittings to join the house to the new water system. I encountered some leaking problems and was wondering if you have any thoughts on sealing those kind of unions. Thanks, Jerry
On brass to plastic connections as a rule on waste lines (low or no pressure), I'll use a good quality Teflon and the Mega Lock joint compound together. On pressurized water line's I'llsubstitute the Blue Block instead Mega Lock. In extreme conditions, I use the spool lampwick and Blue Block.
I am a new home owner and female who was never thought much about products to use. THank you for this video now I can teach my adult son.
I took apart my 74 year old utility(stone) sink, and the rope held up very well!
I just had to pull (lean over) a newly installed fiberglass shower stall. Teflon only had slow drips. Teflon and thread sealer did the trick. Something so damn simple biting me on the butt, but your video effort was well worth it. Thanks.
Happy to help, thanks for checking out the video~
I'm a plumber for the port of Oakland and I also use the tape and pipe dope combo and it never fails!!! Love the videos keep'em coming.👍👍👍
Emmanuel Lopez Thank you Emmanuel, much appreciated . Thanks for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.
I’m training currently for maintenance in an apartment complex this definitely gives me some knowledge thank you 👍
Use it on any threaded seal connection. Drain pvc, drain brass, drain copper, iron natrural gas, etc. If its threaded...use some pipe thread sealant. Its not for sealing, its for anti-galling of threaded connections. Remember that. But that means sometimes you need it to get something tight enough to not leak. And without it you may have threads galling and not allowing full seating of your connection.
Definitely learned from you about the pipe thread sealants. I am replacing a PRV. I put Teflon tape on the threads. The PRV is a brass fitting. The locknuts are brass from existing hardware on collar/tailpiece assembly. The bottom locknut seals. The top locknut is not completely flush, so the locknut does not bottom out correctly. Never used to paste before, but I am going to try it. If it works per a man of your experience, this is going to be a fun installation. This problem had me stumped. I lacked insight on the solution. It's a residential pressure reducing valve so I will set the psi at 60--65, but first I got to make sure the connections are water tight seal. Looking forward to plumbing.
Thanks for the tips. I put in a new electric water heater and your videos were a great resource. I used Megaoc for the first time in combination with the teflon tape. Not a leak when I was finished.
Glad to help
Worked like a charm! Bought the better Teflon tape and used some Megalock from Home Depot...no more leaks! Thanks for a great video.
Fantastic!
I REALLY LOVE THE APPROACH AND DELIVERY IN PRESENTING YOUR CONTENT AND IS VERY EASY TO UNDERSTAND WHILE REASON AND DONE WITH NO MUSS OR FUSS WITH HIGH TREASURABILITY TO THOSE WHO PUT INTO ACTION. MANY THANKS AND BLESS YOU FROM BAD HAND, WEAK KNEED, AND SOLE REMAINING TO OLD FIXER UPPER AND ONLY KNOW WHAT MY DAD TAUGHT ME AND WATCHING MY GUARDIAN FATHER WHO WATCHES OVER ME NOW FOR MY DAD AND IS THE ONLY PLUMBER MY DAD WOULD USE WHEN NEEDED DONE AND NOW IS UP IN AGE TOO!
Great Video! I agree with you 100% use both Teflon and Dope! I’ve had multiple jobs with a small leak when my guys have just used one. Nothing more frustrating than to redo a job when it could have been solved with both
When we get through this Virus situation, people are going to have a new appreciation for the Journeyman service men and women in this country! God bless all the guys who keep this country up and going , plumber, electrician, 𝐇𝐕𝐀𝐂, long haul trucker, under appreciated for decades! Need good healthcare that doesn’t cost a fortune or has such high deductible people live with their health problems for years, until they are dangerously sick!!!
Thank you! Stay Safe! Bob.
I've been plumbing for 12 years, in Az, and you pretty much, covered it all. Great video 👍
Thank You Sandro, much appreciated! Bob
Are you anywhere near Kingman Arizona
@@paulcampbellsr.9818 he"s in NYC
@@deadmanswife3625 Paul is not in NYC don't know where you got that info. But either way I got it fixed
@@paulcampbellsr.9818 you were asking where bobsplumbing is?
Or where sandra is ?
Sorry I thought you were asking about the guy who is doing the videos
Thanks so much for making this video! It was really helpful, clear, and detailed. Perfect for beginners like me.
Thank You for checking out the video! I appreciate it...Regards, Bob.
Great job sir! You've revealed your personal knowledge and high standards with your excellent video.
Thank you kindly!
Yes, threads are imperfect, if you screw something (especially larger things) there is a bit of loose wiggle. Fine thread, naturally less. Good video, more to it than I thought.
Thanks for the video. Well done. As a rookie I really appreciate the explanations why and when rather than just do it my way.
I try my best John, trying to perfect this video stuff,LOL! Thanks for checking out the video,Bob.
Excellent video. Thanks for the detailed explanations. I wrestled with leaks installing an outdoor water spigot. Teflon tape alone didn't cut it. I ended up using Teflon tape and Real-Tuff Thread Sealant. Totally did the trick. Thanks much!
Thank Goodness Yo-yo Patrick for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
Thanks for the video. I only have to put a fitting on the end of hose with brass fittings on the ends, but now I know what to use. Hopefully the teflon will keep it from getting corroded together too.
With threaded brass fittings, leave ~2.5 threads showing on the male connection as a general guide to avoid over-tightening the softer brass. Brass threads can warp, crush or distort if over-tightened.
If you don't make the brass scream, it's not tight enough.
Beginner here, though I have replaced kitchen sink faucets. I'm about to tackle replacing my bath/shower faucet and this helped a lot! I did see thread hanging off the older pipes and was wondering what it was. Now I know!
Loctite 545 is my go to for air and gas. Never had a leak and still using the same old bottle from 10 years ago.
Bob great video ...you speak clearly and slow enough for guy who is very new to plumbing ...looking forward to running more of your Happy Plumbing Videos!
Thank You, Dale, I appreciate that!
Thanks so much! You took my small little job too another level. Simply I have to put a 90 Into my gas cook top. I was just going to use the gas teflon tape. I have two elbows to Install, going out to buy pipe dope. You rock!
Love the Megalock, discovered it by accident at Home Depot, just using it for water fittings around the house. Back in the late 60's/early 70's I worked for a gas utility, they exclusively used the old yellow Rectorseal. No teflon in it in those days. I always felt it just lubricated the joints, with high pressure mains and gas at 75 or so PSI, how could compound hold back the gas, it's really the compression of the pipe and fitting. We always called it pipe dope, never heard anyone call it compound.
Hey Bob. Great video. I know you don't need tape or dope on compression fittings (brass ferrules or rubber o-rings), but I like to put some tape on the threads because it seems to help control corrosion making it easier to take apart later if needed.
I'll use Teflon on pipe threads in combination with pipe joint compound. I tend not to use it on compression or flare fittings but will lubricate the threads with pipe joint compound to make up the nuts easily.
BobsPlumbingVideos OK. Thanks.
Just good ole common sense old school plumbing wisdom! Thank you!
Glad to help, thank for checking out the video!
Thank you, Bob,
Spot-on terrific info and also a nice walk down memory lane. I'm 63 and my father (420 Steamfitters) started me off with Pro Dope and lamp wick, which is still nice for some old hot-water radiator repairs! Also, great review of different type products and specific applications which is more of what is important instead of debating (as I often see) whether Hercules, Rectorseal, Blue Monster, etc. is the best?! All of the aforementioned companies make terrific products, but knowing how to use those products is the key! Passing this on to friends....
Cheers
Thank you John! Regards, Bob
Great explanation on the different applications. You answered my specific question perfectly. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Bob
I started using the black tape in combination with pipe dope it works awesome and nothing ever leaks.
Excellent video, and one that even a woman can understand--now I know how to fix that leaky pipe in my well pit. Thank you!
Thank you! For checking it out. Regards, Bob
Did you fix it?
I like real tuff over Megalock but like you said it is difficult to clean for sure, almost like a white tar if that makes any sense. I’m probably using way to much. I think they lubricate more than they seal imo making it easier to tighten the fittings and also makes loosening in the future much much easier.
Very informative, thanks. Just to refine the overall issue, tapered threaded pipe connection is a throw-back technology that IMO remains with us only because it continues to provide excellent mechanical joint strength at low cost. But its inability to seal has been a design flaw since its inception as your video addresses fairly well. Augmenting the description I would add that the actual problem is primarily from the mismatch between the peaks/valleys of engagement. The major diameter of the female thread HAS TO BE be larger than the major diameter of the male thread and, congruently, the minor diameter of the female thread HAS TO BE larger than the minor diameter of the male thread. (I say "has to be" because if there was an interference of either condition the rest of the two thread surfaces would not even touch.) The two resulting gaps at the peak/valley clearances then create two helical paths for a leak even if the rest of the thread surfaces match up perfectly. It is those helical paths that have to be plugged up
I would also add that male pipe threads on commercially produced pipes/nipples/parts are cut single point on a CNC screw machine that provides a much closer tolerance thread than anything you can hope to get with one of those multi insert manual pipe dies.
Impressive! thank's for that. Bob.
Used Teflon tape first, then rectaseal, liked the smell of the pipe dope, but very rare if never leaked in my years of plumbing heating . The problem with Teflon and dope with Teflon, oil pump mfgs. Advise against Teflon, I personally saw a oil pump leak oil from a hanging furnace that the installer used plain Teflon tape. On water the combos can’t be beat. Very good video.
Pat Cupolo Thanks Pat, appreciate it!
I put a quick connect on a well pressure tank and need to know the best way to clean and make a good seal. this is the second time using this quick connect. It's 1 years old. Thanks
Can you send me a photo? info@robertsessaplumbing.com
Thank you for the great video and info, i have to seal a tank at suction line that is leaking and the Austrian company that built it used hemp sealant but is there another way to seal this joint if i do not have hemp?
Glad it helped
Blue block with teflon tape works in both new and old pipes because the new ones come with all kind of impurities also, you don't want to take any risk. Of course for the gas pipes only blue block on the male thread.
Best video I watched so far, answered all my questions
Much appreciated! Bob.
Great video...easy to understand..no loud music...thanks
Glad it helped!
Thanks Bob for a great video! What are your thoughts on anaerobic sealants and how long do you have to wait before turning on the gas after using an anaerobic sealant ie to allow it to cure properly etc
When working with low pressure gas or drainage fittings I'll turn it on immediately, if I have a questionable joint on a water line I may wait a few hours before turning it back on. For the most part in everyday situations, everything goes live immediately.
What do you use for stainless steel fittings that keeps them from galling together forever ??? Nice video Sir.
Mega-Loc is a good choice in my opinion. Seals great and breaks apart easily! Thanks for the visit, Bob.
Will this take 1200 F heat ??? I will be putting the 316 and 304 SS mix pipe inside my woodstove. This will be the secondary burn part of the stove. The pipe I am using are 3M pressure grade. All overkill but the price was right so that is what I used Bob. Thanks for your time Sir. vf@@BobsPlumbingVideos
Thanks! I think I now know why my 1.25 to 1. inch reducer is leaking/dripping on my pressure tank diy hook up. I over-torqued it and used only metal pipe dope. I will get a new reducer and use teflon with teflon sealant, and not over-torque.
When I changed over from galvanised pipes to copper tubing 35 years ago, I installed a permanent pressure gauge on the cold water line in basement laundry. Many older homes in Vancouver, B.C. Canada where I live do not have a pressure regulator valve. The typical pressure in my neighbourhood was about 80 psi, dropping somewhat in the summer. A few weeks ago it was going up as high as 120 psi, so I decided to install a Watt pressure regulator on the 3/4 copper entry. My first two attempts with teflon tape only on a tapered brass fitting dripped, and on my third try with even more tape it still leaked, and now a union on the line was dripping. I found your video, bought the Canadian MegaLoc, which has English and French instructions, followed your directions and both connections are completely dry. What I really noticed as I torqued with the MegaLoc and teflon combo, was how smooth and easily it tightened compared to teflon only. Pressure is now set at 60 psi. Sure glad I found your video. Angus.
I’m glad you found my video also Angus, love helping homeowners like yourself. Regards and thanks again...Bob
Thank you for this video. I will be installing a new boiler using black pipe for the supply and return headers. Your video was a great help in making sure I seal the joints correctly. Very well done.
I'm very happy to help, thank you for checking out the video, Bob.
FWIW: re 4:08 The "tapered pipe thread" is designed to provide excellent mechanical rigidity & good seal despite inconsistent tap & die 'sizes', but the abrupt end & reversal of the tapping motion, provides a fractured 'seam' across the threads where the cutting edges of the tool stopped. That little step, is where the 'leak' can occur. Normally, if the fitting is well tightened, the metal will be slightly stretched & the 'seam' will also be smooshed smooth enough to be gas tight. If you look, you can easily see, and sometimes you can feel the 90 or 120 degree 'click' as the seams pass each other.
Thank you for making this video, answered all my questions. Very un-boring and helpful :)
Perfect explanation, so much to learn. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Do you need to let the blue block dry before pressuring a system? Or any other pipe thread sealants for that matter
I learned with lamp wick and pro dope in 1998. I had an old school plumbing instructor. Still my preferred method. I've used mega lock here and there. With the tape I learned to put the dope on first then the tape over it. Real Touff I mainly used for fire sprinkler systems. Blue block makes a mess, it's like paint and gets everywhere. I didn't do much gas piping, but I used it exclusively for oil, from the tank piping, oil filter, firomattic valves, up to the burner.
started out as a maintenance mechanic in the early 80's never saw it in threads.....would wrap leaky condensate fittings with new mop strings until we could shut down
Thanks bro. I liked and subscribed. Your video was very informative I am currently doing a lot of plumbing around the house and I am trying to soak up all the knowledge I can
Thanks for the sub! Glad I could help.
Great video for the next generation Bob, I'm sure your dad is proud .
Pat LI NY
Thank you Pat, much appreciated! Regards, Bob.
Great video, thanks for sharing! But still have a question...
I have a shower head arm that is a little loose when oriented in the correct direction. If I try to make one more revolution the arm gets so tight it only makes it 3/4 of the way around.
Wondering what I can do to ensure that there is no leak since this is a remodel and there is no way to see if there is a slight drip inside the wall
In a situation like that, I'll remove the arm and double down on the amount of Teflon. Instead of 5 or 6 times around I'll go 10 or 12 times around. It will usually make up the difference and you won't have to make that final rotation.
Dope then tape. Fills in the threads better and comes out much cleaner. I'm a Fire Sprinkler Fitter and I usually do about 5 wraps. We use either Teflon dope or C5A copper anti cease along with Teflon tape
The age old trade argument. Lol.
Excellent video! Can you give me any advice on what I should use with fittings that go into a steam generator? I picked up a bunch of these Hoffman steamers that I need to rebuild, and I've never worked with steamers before. Also, while taking these things apart I notice a lot of the fittings are corroded to hell and back. I actually had one of the nipples snap in half while trying to take it out of the vessel! I don't want these things to corrode again if I can help it, so any advice on how to prevent that in the future? Sorry if these are all basic questions; this is all rather new to me!
I would most likely use a combination of either the old style spool lamp-wick or blue monster or mega teflon tape and the blue block sealant. I find the Blue block the most reliable sealant when working with older corroded fittings. And if possible clean out your fitting with a sharp pipe tap to insure a good fit between the male and female fittings.
Gey man love the video. What's your opinion on rector seal T2 or 5 doft set? Thats what I use exclusively and hercules teflon. Use rector seal for everything
Rectorseal is good product, and if it works for you, use! It comes down to personal preference and what gets the job done! Regards, Bob.
I've used the BlueMonster Gas Teflon Tape or the Gas Rated Yellow Teflon Tape for years with gas fittings, especially on 2" or ST90's
Teflon tape with TRU-BLU is my go to. TRU-BLU is so smooth and easy to apply and cleans up crazy easy I just rub it into my blu jeans and it's gone.
Good Product...👍
Does the MegaLock sealant eventually dry? Do you let it dry before turning on the water? Thanks! great video.
No, you can turn on the water immediately!
Bob I use the Loctite 565 to replace a shower head arm because the thread is not that great anymore, but the Loctite does not dry up. It's been 48 hours already. I used it on copper with the shower arm
Can you please give me some advice on this? Thank you
I've personally never used it! BlueBlock is my go to sealant for problem threads! Regards, Bob.
Hi there, awesome video. I am installing a diesel slip tank in my pickup. I assume I should use a thread sealant with PTFE? I have a under tonneau cover slip tank therefore the pump will be below the highest level of diesel fuel, thus putting a lot of pressure on the pump connection where it screws into the NPT on the slip tank. Should I use teflon tape and thread sealant or just thread sealant with PTFE?
I would use Teflon then Blue Block thread sealant. Pretty much bullet proof!
They make a special PTFE for use with gasoline/oil automotive uses....should be all you need
Great video, gives a lot of important information for novices like me . Don’t edit down the length.
Love blue block for steam and gas, there is another product from Hercules that I use for gas is Grip (black) it works great as well.
Grip was the original leak stopper! Great product, messy also!
Will it be tough to remove the fitting in the future if I use Blue block?
Not at all, it's a soft set sealant.
Thanks Bob for a great video!
Which pipe dope would you use for heating element threads in a steam boiler tank application? Does boiler/steam app fall in the category of gas so use blue block? Looking forward to your opinion. Many thanks.
Blue Block is my "No Callback Bulletproof" choice! Can't go wrong with it, just don't get it on you or your tools, or Lacquer Thinner to the rescue!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos
1) just so I fully understand, by 'blue block', do you mean :
- 'blue Teflon tape + BLOCK pipe dope'" ?
or
- BLOCK pipe dope'" only will work fine?
2) Lastly, I assume using BLOCK is no problem should the water boiler heating element ever need replacing (unscrew threads again in future if needed) ?
Thx .
First time viewer. Bob, you are one of the best! It's nice to see a pro do the teaching. I'll be using your tricks going forward :) Happy New Year bud!!!
Thank You Sir! Happy New Year to you and your family! Bob.
Excellent detailed educating video on sealing pipes. Thank you!!!
Thank you, Sir! Regards, Bob.
Do you prefer megalock or blue block over blue monster?
My every day go to id Mega-lock, but on problem joints Blue Block saves the day 100% of the time.
Over-tightening can produce water or gas title seal initially. Brass expands and contracts with temperature. This often creates hairline fractures that can be a bear to trouble shoot. The video is good advice.
I learned a ton watching this and love your attention to aesthetics and detail - thanks for a great post. On different note, your post made me think how fun it would be as a layperson to be at a convention and listen to the debates you guys must have about stuff like the myriad personal styles of joinery and applying teflon tape. Love it.
Thank you Zach, very much appreciated! Bob
New subscribe. Really helpful discussion. The only real question I was left with is what is typical set up time.
I use everyone of these products, and typically continue use of water and or waste immediately. Exception would be possibly with a real bad thread using Blue-Block, I might wait 24 hrs if that's at all possible. Most times it's not!
Would would you use on brake fittings?
Don't know if I'm qualified to answer that, but if you're referring to the Blue Block I would. Read the label directions!
Thanks for sharing the benefit of your experience.
My pleasure!
Great information video.
Q. What about PVC threaded mixed with metal threaded fittings? I've had water lines that were being used for well house, sprinkler and had mixed success. I was taught as you mentioned cleaning the threads with a brush first but even had leaks. I have used T. tape, T. tape with joint compound and still have a few issues now and then. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks for sharing.
I would use the spool lamp-wick (Minimal) in between the threads. Followed by Teflon, then Mega-Loc joint compound.
What did you decide to use? Have a few 1" male PVC to 1" galv female.
I hate plastic to metal threads....teflon and paste.....I know you're not supposed to do it but that's the only time I'd put a little paste on the internal threads of the steel fitting
I do not use Teflon tape, period. Yes, it is quicker and cleaner, but if leak prevention is important, I only use threaded pipe sealant, and specifically Harveyseal formula 55. I just finished installing an 80 gallon air compressor and plumbed it with copper pipe, some sweated joints and most with threaded fittings to accommodate the ball valve and regulator. 175 PSI and no leaks!
Thanks for the advice! I only put Teflon tape on a new kitchen sink shut off valve and it wouldn't stop leaking. I'm going to get some sealant tonight!
Good Luck!
BobsPlumbingVideos it worked like a charm
Did you use 4-5 wraps? But i know the old pastes and the new pastes work better. Just messy. I’ve seen pros use both wrap and paste together.
What’s up Bob.? There was an old pipe sealant you mentioned. I’m not sure if it was this video or another video.! It was in a red container and sometime you would have to heat up the pipe in order to loosen it.! Do you know what pipe sealant I’m talking about.?
This video is so info packed.
Do you have a video or, know of a video that shows how to connect a PVC schd 40 female or male adapter to an elbow on metal pipe?
Awesome video, Bob. Thanks so much.
When I screw schd 40 pvc on or into metal pipe I generally use teflon tape followed by Blue Block or Grip. Either or will work.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos and only to prevent abrassion on the plastic part and prevent sticking, so not as much as metal-to-metal, right?
BTW, one can really see you know your stuff. On the other hand I like the looks of neatly wound teflon tape sticking out - it looks clean and done to me when checking later (but only on ugly plastic or metal hidden joints, not the fancy visible shiny pipes).
Rectorseal Blackjack #21 is hard to beat.... Gasoila is really good as well, same for Whitlam Blue Magic.....
Hey, what about on steam pipes? All the same ideas? Blue block sounds like it would work well! I’ll have to research that.
use the teflon paste dope or you'll never get it apart for a repair down the line
can you sweat a fitting in place after the other end has used teflon to seal the threads in place
I would say if you're good with a torch, the minimum distance you should go is not less than 12" from the end in question.
This is the best video I have seen on this subject! Is is best just to use Blue Block on everything just to be safe? Keep up the great content, I'm subbed!
I use Blue Block on all gas work and problem waste and water leaks. It can get messy, I'm confident using Mega-Loc as my everyday go-to thread sealant. Thanks for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
Blue block sounded great but it's 3 weeks from Amazon and Home Depot doesn't stock it. Ebay only has 3 and they all added $8 dollar shipping charge. Update 15 minutes later: just ordered home delivery from Home Depot and it gets here in 5 days and total cost is only $8 for 8 oz. Same product on Ebay cost you $24. Amazon says at least 3 weeks and charge is $17. Wow !!! Home Depot is AWESOME.
GOOD VIDEO FELLOW NY, THE BLUE COMPOUND ACTS TO PREVENT RUST?
I have always used Megaloc but want to try a new product just for fun. Would you say the standard Blue Monster thread sealant or the newer Blue Monster with PTFE pipe thread sealant which is white rather than blue would be better? Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks for checking out the video, I would say the standard Blue Monster w/ Teflon tape will get the job done. I currently still use the Megaloc w/ Teflon. I wanted to love Real-Tuff which is white, but it's to messy I.M.H.O!
I'm having a difficult time with a Compressed air system, it's only 125 psi, but tape and the thread sealer i have is making bubbles. You said the tape and sealant was perfect for liquid, but that you only use the blue block when working with gas, but from what I've read natural gas is only a couple of psi at most. So which method should i use for Compressed air, which is higher pressure than the 2 examples toy covered
Yes, gas is low pressure and here in NYC we're not permitted to use Teflon tape on gas joints. I use the Blue Block as an insurance advantage because it sets semi hard which forms a gasket type seal. If you're having issues with the Teflon and Blue block, I would go with the spool lamp-wick. Starting a thread or two from the end of the pipe working it back about 3/4 of the way, followed by the Blue block. You can also place a round or two of Teflon over the lamp-wick, then the Blue block.
I don't use Teflon tape with threaded PVC pipe. The bulk of the tape makes the joints harder to thread, and the soft threads can be damaged during installation. I get good results using only RectorSeal No. 5 sealant. Although the directions say it can be pressurized immediately after threading I wait and let it set at least a half hour or more.
I used Oatey Great White Pipe Joint Compound with 1" pvc to 1" galvanized female and it leaks, very slow drip. Is #5 that much better than the Oatey pipe dope or try teflon tape? I have the thicker blue Gorilla teflon tape and standard white tape.
@@ridemfast7625 If you want to use tape try the thin kind and only use 3 or 4 winds. Then apply enough RectorSeal No. 5 over the tape so that some excess is squeezed out during installation. Wipe off the excess and you are done! I don't think Oatey is available in my area but since you've tried it and it's leaking you should probably stop using it. Or maybe you accidentally stripped the threads. Anyway, RectorSeal No. 5 without tape works fine for me!
Hi, thank you for this video. could you please comment on what you think about shark bite products. If they are safe to use for pipe fittings.Thank you.
th-cam.com/video/CuqEibmPVRE/w-d-xo.html
When I worked with my dad back in the late 60s Pro dope compound a lamp wick was used for everything
Only thing to use back in the good old days 👍
Thanks for the video. I need to unscrew pipes that have pipe dope applied to them. How can I safely remove copper water supply lines attached with pipe dope before replacing them with braided water supply lines? Is there a specific technique to use with copper lines, water supply lines, and PVC?
Most important is to hold back on the fitting you're attempting to remove the pipe from. Remove counter clockwise and hold back in a clockwise position.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks, Bob. I'll make sure to do so. So, it should unscrew without a need for vinegar or wd-40 to dissolve the pipe dope/pipe joint compound?
One final question is if you think it's wise to install a Delta faucet with PEX water supply tubing. I was hoping for braided supply lines but found out Delta only uses PEX tubing on this item. I would rather not cut it and risk adjoining the ferrules incorrectly. Is it okay to loop the PEX tubing once before attaching it to the water supply valves? Or should I consider finding another faucet that has braided supply lines that can be looped?
slightly heat them with a butane torch just be careful not to light a fire
What are your thoughts on Loctite 55?
Good stuff indeed, I don't use it as I have found the blue block solves most leaks I've run across.
Question: I have a connection on my hot water heater that has a male metal to female Pvc pipe thread conection that has what looks like a red sealant in the connection that was installed in 2020. The inspector that came for my insurance renewal said I have to replace it because it was rusty. Could you explain what it could be so I can convince them there is not a problem.
Thank you
It's most likely Loctite thread sealant which is very difficult to remove. Check it out here -tameson.com/pages/loctite-color-comparison
Thanks! Good info, other than the part where you to threaded the nipple through the back side of the die when explaining taper around 2:00. But why did it turn in so far by hand on the wrong side of the taper?? Idk
First time here. Truly an outstanding video. Very comprehensive. Connecting a gas dryer today for a (male) friend. He spent all of yesterday trying to do this without success. Unless im missing something, i made the connections in less than 5 minutes. His big fear is that the tapered male ends are not supposed to screw into a non-tapered females. I bought a 1/2" to 3/8" connector and used it between the dryer and gas line. Everything fit nicely. He raised his voice and said "dont use white tape on gas lines." Is that true? He also insists that the tapered/rounded male ends are not to be screwed into the gas lines. I dont think thats the case. Hes convinced the females have to be shaped like the males or gas will leak. I disagree.
If you're referring to the flexible gas connectors, the male portion which screws into the female nut on the connector is not pipe thread and should not be screwed into an I.P.S. fitting. We're not allowed to use Teflon tape on gas in New York. Just pipe joint compound is all you need.
In uk we have white ptfe tape for water and a yellow type for gas fittings.
Dear Bob great how to as always. Do you have any family from Sessa Cilento in Italy?
I do not know? I was born in the U.S.A. As were my parents. My mother’s family is Naples/Sicily and my fathers family is Sorrento. Regards, Bob.
Excellent video. I love that fact that you take an extra few seconds to wipe your joints and make them look neat. Also although you didn't touch on it in the video I see sprinkler fitters using the paste and then a few layers of Teflon tape over it.
Robert Meier Thank you for checking out the video! Always wipe my joints down, the difference between a professional and a novice. Some use the tape first followed by the paste and visa versa. I guess it’s personal preference. As long as it doesn’t leak! Regards, Bob.
It’s actually better at least in my understanding that Teflon tape then sealant after, if you use the sealant then the tape the tape makes a balloon of sorts and it just gets pushed out of the fitting.