Best trick for removing water out of pipework without a wet vac for me is I use the spray part of a kitchen cleaning disinfectant bottle as you can Push the small tube down the copper and spray the water out always worked for me nice video as always james keep up the good work 👍
@@millomweb still won’t be able to solder the bottom part of the tee if there’s water in there…I like his idea of the spray bottle head. I just use a shop vac or pro press, but I think it’s clever
I've been watching your videos for about 5 years now. Since then I've learned loads about plumbing, DIY etc. I'm a plumber by trade and you've shown me lots of great tips over the years. I've even had a go at tiling and boarding. Your a legend James. Thank you 🤟
I am a retired plumber (heating engineer) and just seen your very good video. However a few comments, ptfe tape, says on the reel " thread sealing tape" and that is exactly what it is NOT olive sealing tape. The conex manual states ideally no compound should be required although boss white etc may be used. The idea is to present a smooth even surface to the seal, PTFE tape makes a very uneven surface and in time will bed in and cause a leak. Incidentally Conex also say " hand tight plus 3/4 of a turn". Oh yes as you say clean the pipe ! ! Thanks, Bob.
Your videos are gold dust for DIYers. Been able to do so many jobs around the house thanks to them! Might even have a go at soldering next time I need to do some pipe work. Thanks for making this possible.
Hi mate Great videos keep them coming. After 22yrs military service I’m now retraining tiling / bathroom installations. Definitely going to make loads of mistakes along the way. Remember to FAIL is just the FIRST ATTEMPT IN LEARNING (FAIL).
Would also recommend cleaning the pipe after soldering as well? Around 17 years back we had a new heating system fitted and some pipe work done. 15 years afterwards water through the kitchen ceiling. Seems not all of the flux splatter had been removed from the pipes leaving it to eat through the pipes and form pin holes..
Since following advice on You Tube on using jointing compound and not over tightening compression fittings the number of water features in our house has dropped to zero in past years. Thanks mainly to James!
Nice video. I'm not a plumber but have learned all these tricks over the years through trial and error. Some swear by ptfe and others say don't put it on the olive. Its always worked for me.
Most plumber who I’ve used do cowboy jobs . Just recently when my plumber drained the radiator for cleaning when he put it back I saw him not using the jointing compound. When told he said it doesn’t need it and when the system was pressured back it started leaking after I added inhibitor . He drained, I told him it’s leaking and he drained it again loosing my inhibitor and he messed up my other jobs too . I’ve lost faith on these plumber who are very dishonest. I’ve learnt what is the right way on videos like this but lack confidence. Thanks James for all the information you share to the world which helps me a bit against these cowboy tradesmen around .
Fact is, he's correct. The manufacturer of the compression fittings advise *not* to use any form of jointing compound or PTFE tape. Although, it does put higher requirements on the sizing and quality of the olives, pipework, and fittings to ensure that they deform correctly. It's supposed to be a compression fit - they use this form of connection for ultra high vacuum systems. They're not just water tight, they're air tight. And air tight to the next level. But only when done right with quality parts. So... I can see why people such as yourself use a "belt and braces" approach and apply a dab of compound anyway, but it's against OEM guidelines.
Nice work . I wrap ptfe onto a pencil and then roll the pencil around the fitting, great in those hard to get to spots. Put your pencil in a drill if you want to spool a lot of tape on. Reversing threads for the "click" is one of the first mechanical tricks I learned, probably fixing me Chopper or Grifter in the 70s 🙂
@plumberparts - thanks for this - i'm a DIY'er and wanted my downstairs loo refurb to be a personal project - was connecting a new compression tap valve to 1960's pipework and kept getting a drip - yep i put ptfe on the thread!!! It's now on the olive - THANK YOU!
I use a couple of turns of ptfe tape on olives, I seen that manufactures of compression fittings say it's not necessary to use pipe putty, I use it on threaded joints with hemp, still the best combo.
I know several plumbers who do put pipe dope on compression threads. It’s not to seal but is used as a lubricant. I don’t know if it changes anything except you don’t hear that creaking noise but I guess it doesn’t hurt. As for overtightening, my philosophy for the most part is to smug it up. You can always tighten it a little more if it leaks. Of course this doesn’t apply to iron pipe threads. They can handle overtightening and if you just snug things then you may have to take quite a few fittings apart to fix a leak. There’s a trick I have related to water messing with solder. It’s not super clever and it may be aimed at Americans more than UK. With check valves on almost every fixture in a house it’s hard to drain the water down. I’ve had to fix copper water yard lines and you can’t open a hose Bibb to break the vacuum. I guess you could blow on it or run a cord and use a compressor. I carry a pair of vise grips and I put them on the plastic plumber of hose Bibb vacuum breakers and let them hang. They’ll hold it open so it will slow air in the break the vacuum. It’s especially nice when your muddy and can’t go inside to use something there. Lastly there’s a trick for threaded pipe I learned from my first boss. If you have an old threaded connection that you just can’t seem to break loose, reverse your wrenches and tighten it. Why you can tighten it easier than loosen it is beyond me but it breaks the hardened dope and then you can unthread it much easier. It seems completely counter intuitive but it sure works
Very informative! Can you tell me again what is the material you used to tank the floor of your bathroom? It stuck to the 9mm ply sheet you put down? I had a shower put in and we’ll things were not done how they should have. So the more I can do to stop leaks or water coming through my ceiling the better. Thank you again! Just got to work out how to drain the hot water down so I can put an isolation valve in. 🖖
Very good hints however I have a question. Should we use PTFE tape everytime on threads when we are using jointing compound as well? Can we use one of these or should we use both at one time?
When i got married at 19 my father in law wanted me to have a trade so he took me to work with him at weekends and some evenings to learn the trade unfornately he was a painter!!! i wanted to be a plumber!! great tips
All good tips... some pro's dont even do some of them. Re PTFE on compression fittings, I always put a couple of turns on the threads - not to seal them but to assist in reducing the brass to brass squeeky friction when tightening.
You don't need PTFE tape on compression fittings. They're precision made fittings and as long as the pipe fits squarely into the body of the fitting then it won't leak. I was an electrician/plumber for some years, I retired about 15 years ago at the age of 48, but during my working life I worked on many houses built in the late 50's early 60's and onwards and most of them still had their original compression fittings. None of the original fittings had PTFE tape or any kind of sealing compound on them as these products didn't exist back then. You would sometimes come across hemp seals in other fittings or a toilet soil pipe sealed with putty and paint. The only time I would use PTFE tape on a normal compression fitting is if I was connecting a new compression fitting/body to an old nut where the olive was embedded into the copper pipe. Of course, there are many other uses for PTFE tape in plumbing.
@@anthony342 I only ever saw it on bigger fittings such as tank connectors and back boilers with the old 1inch copper. Yes I remember my dad using red lead on the immersion heater thread.
Many years ago I elanred that PTFE should be on the olive and it made perfect sense, however I was today years old when I learned that compound could be used instead. My experience with compound has always been that of an observer trying to fix something and it seems to have appeared in places where the manufacturer has supplied a substantial rubber washer and used the words "do not use compound" in the instructions. A fiver for a little tub is fine and it can sit in my plumbing odds and sods box. Thanks!
You forgot to mention not putting inserts inside the plastic pipes and soft copper pipes. May be in part two if there is enough suggestions. 😉 Thank for the video!
I've installed my own CH. I made an air trap - in such a way as it self-bleeds the system. One leg of it has a piece of 10mm pipe - that's the only piece I forgot to put inserts in !
I've been binging your vids. I ordered some "Jetlube jointing compound" and some "Loctite sealing cord". I've been getting away with basic plumbing for years. I'm hoping these two products will help makes things easier.
Something else came to mind Don’t forget to deburr the inner part of the copper pipe,where the cut is made. keep a nice clean flow of water. Nice video always handy info,👍🏻
Currently gutting and redoing the bathroom. Did all rhe plumbing turned the water on on had few weeps tightend them up then others started weeping. Turned water off had a smoke had a think back to what my dad used to do found some ptfe tape in 1 of my tool boxes n taped up all joints all sound now. Prob should of had the smoke n watched this vid 1st thing this mornin rather than at 9.30 at night. I did watch your mixer shower install vid this morning as that was my 1st task. U dint mention the jointing compound on there I don't think
Here in Ireland historically for a long long time we kept with the Imperial cooper pipework and fittings ... For the likes of retro fitting Boiler's folks here use adapter's maybe in a similar way to Blighty... Steel pipe fittings can be a real mess as the American Imported products use National Pipe Thread ... NPT... Where as the British use British Pipe Thread ... B S.P. ... Things get Sketchy when some D.I.Y. folk try to Push On or Click Fit metric pipe Fittings onto old Imperial pipe.... Great Upload....
I was taught at college (many, many years ago) that a new compression fitting does not need PTFE tape or jointing compound adding to make a water tight seal. I stick with that to this day and very rarely get a problem.
Is the jointing compound used on compression fittings the same stuff that's used for making threaded connections with linen/flax/hemp? Mine says "sealing compound" on the box, so I'm unsure if that's the same thing...
Thanks for the tips. Some I wasn't aware of. But making mistakes don't teach you unless you know you've made a mistake ;-) but next DIY plumbing job I hope I'll recall enough to be better informed.
Easy! Use copper endfeed fittings, no dead legs. Flexihoses are being removed due to disease in medical environments. Great techniques, I don’t exactly agree but we all do stuff differently.
I’m more of a builder then I am plumber, I’m bathroom installer, a gas engineer I use a lot said I shouldn’t ptfe the threads said I should ptfe the olive and jet blue the olive and remainder of the pipe, what is you’re take on that method ?
The gas engineer was talking about compression fittings where the seal is made on the olive and his advice is perfectly sound, though I am sure he means use either PTFE or jointing compound not both. You only PTFE the thread when using a male threaded joint. The most common example in bathrooms would probably be the male 1/2" bsp fitting on the towel radiator tail which you would wrap in PTFE before inserting. In this example there is no olive, the seal being made on the thread.
Does jointing compound work on plastic. My toilet water supply is copper. It has a square "olive" When you tighten the nut, it pulls the plastic threaded pipe edge against the square "olive". I have used PTFE, LX compound with no success. I always a weeping leak. The plastic threaded pipe goes into the toilet cistern and the float etc
Mate I am total Newbie, leccy stuff I'm okay with and chippy stuff but anything around water not to good, so any advice you give is great, meaning less ear bashing from the trouble and strife when when I don't flood the bathroom 🤣🤣
Great videos… just wondering about compression fittings on Jg speed fit? I don’t feel like jointing compound would be right.. but they do they leak a bit without tape,..I don’t think I’m over tightening 🤔
I had a heating engineer come and service my combi boiler and he replaced the PRV but the new one had tapered threads and he didn't use ptfe and so it would lose pressure every day but because the valve was on top of the water store it was evaporating so it took him 3 call outs before he solved the issue
What is the difference between the potable and non-potable jointing compound? Is there any benefit to the non-potable one or could you just use the potable compound on everything?
Ive only used potable, but it seems thicker and easy to apply without needing tool to mix it or apply. I reckon as the non potable stuff is thinner it'll probably stick better.
Hi thanks for the video it's great. Should you deburr a pipe i.e. on the inside too? And if yes what tool should you use. Or isn't it necessary? There's some videos knocking around saying it's important to do that too. Thanks.
Yes. Burrs on the inside cause ebbs and flows like in rivers and this causes spot errosion in copper pipes over time from the inside. Many cylindrical deburrers (as oppsed to pen type deburrers) debur both inner and outer sides of pipe at the same time
Do you have a link the the drill pump you mention in the video please? I can search on amazon of course but I assume anything you are using is reasonable quality and worth buying.. I'd love your recommendation.. I have been to your web store on amazon but I cant see a search option, within your store...
James! Please tell me you have heard of the trick of using the hole of a bacho spanner to turn ceased stopcocks open/shut, they have actually got a grove that the stop cock handle sits again, such a great way in tight spaces!!!
Sorry to take issue with you but as a plumber of 60 years,you never put paste on a new compression fitting and that comes from the manufacturer. Only use paste when reassembling an old fitting if it leaks. Also your torch flame was to far from the pipe, the end of the dark blue flame is the hottest part.
Hi James Happy New Year. Love the bathroom especially the funky tiles. Don’t get hammered and look at that pattern! Anyway just a long ish one to pick your brain. Mate of mine calls me up/ he’s pilot holed the very waffer top of an old thick CH pipe with a drill bit. Hole is tiny with a fine counter sink around the rim of hole. Almost like a volcano. Anyways the plonkers only gone and done it on the most complex bend I’ve ever seen. Two sharp off sets with a kick. I’d have tried to replicate but I was on another planet with worst brain fog after two weeks of COVID. I basically cleaned up the area until I could see myself in it, fluxed the hole and blobbed a lovely bit of leaded solder on, It worked great. What’s your opinion on the strength of this, unpressurised system. Long term.
I always do that trick to avoid cross threading, can't tell you how many times someone chimes in "wrong way or righty tighty". Yes.... I know. Then I explain why I'm doing it so they can learn as well.
A couple of things you did not say!! To ensure a compression joint tightens smoothly put a bit of grease on the olive as modern olives do not contain lead as a lubricant. A dry joint squeals and will not do up tightly. Point 2 - cross threading. Some toilet filler valves have a plastic shank so a cross threaded nut will feel ok but it is not!! It will leak and if the nut has gone on a long way you will never get a nut to go back to the correct thread. You cannot hear a click!! All I can say is put the nut on carefully and 'feel' if its tightening correctly. Only experience knows if it is!! Try to fit fillers with a brass shank.
@@erikt9677 By 6 turns, I was taking that as 6 layers. If the turns are along a thread, different matter. A sealing thread shouldn't need that much due to its taper.
Jointing compound / pipe dope is never needed on compression sleeves. In fact, this will fail inspection in many places. You don't need PTFE tape either; if you've buggered the sleeve just replace that part for a proper leak-free connection.
Yes, I have been there many years ago. I am an amateur but have done a lot of plumbing in the four houses that I have owned. Never plunged an urinal but have broken a shower base by vigorously plunging it. Had to renew the shower , it was plastic but I would not do that again.
Some of the time I use "pipe dope" (just a little dab) on the male thread of a compression fitting just for lubrication. Not really as a sealant...just a lube. You can get another 1/4 to 1/2 turn on your compression nut..no leaks....☺
Noob here (I don't mind the descriptor, at all :) )I wrap PTFE round every thread, just to be om the safe side. Am I right in thinking I'm wasting my time (and tape) then?
Personally, of all the compressions I've seen leak exactly all of them had jointing compound on them and no PTFE tape. Jointing compound obviously helps but the tape seems to be far more effective.
I was told that if you solder with any water in the pipe, it can pop the other soldered joints, is this an exaggeration? what kind of pipe distance do you have to keep water free if you were putting a joint on it? also, hold tight!
Excellent teach in the video,i just wondered does anybody actually still uses hemp, and boswhite , anymore,i still have a pack in my garage and would still swear by it for most threaded joints,thanks again.
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Where can I buy the pipe/paint cleaner that u fit on the drill from?
Best trick for removing water out of pipework without a wet vac for me is I use the spray part of a kitchen cleaning disinfectant bottle as you can Push the small tube down the copper and spray the water out always worked for me nice video as always james keep up the good work 👍
Cut the pipe, fit a Tee and fit a drain cock !
@@millomweb still won’t be able to solder the bottom part of the tee if there’s water in there…I like his idea of the spray bottle head. I just use a shop vac or pro press, but I think it’s clever
Nice didn't think of that.
Thanks for sharing
I use a diesel pump with a 10m u gauge hose at the end of it and can make it as long as you’d like.
Was expecting him to give that as a tip too.
Don’t take a trap off and empty it down the sink your working on.
Haha! Done that a few times!
Put a bucket under the trap before removing. That way you can use the sink to do a quick rinse of the threads and seals on the trap.
Been there done that.
Or hand the trap to someone else to empty down the sink while you're still lying underneath it........😂😂
@@davidboyle9636 sounds like brexit….! Lol!
I've been watching your videos for about 5 years now. Since then I've learned loads about plumbing, DIY etc. I'm a plumber by trade and you've shown me lots of great tips over the years. I've even had a go at tiling and boarding. Your a legend James. Thank you 🤟
Well said
Cheers bro! ❤️
I am a retired plumber (heating engineer) and just seen your very good video. However a few comments, ptfe tape, says on the reel " thread sealing tape" and that is exactly what it is NOT olive sealing tape. The conex manual states ideally no compound should be required although boss white etc may be used. The idea is to present a smooth even surface to the seal, PTFE tape makes a very uneven surface and in time will bed in and cause a leak.
Incidentally Conex also say " hand tight plus 3/4 of a turn". Oh yes as you say clean the pipe ! !
Thanks, Bob.
Spot on ! Annoys me the amount of times I see it . Not only is it wrong as its ’thread sealing Tape’ - it’s also a waste of time !
The gentle unscrew-until-click trick also works for reinserting woodscrews and helps to avoid stripping the thread in the wood.
Yep - and screws screwed into plastic - saves cutting a new thread.
Your videos are gold dust for DIYers. Been able to do so many jobs around the house thanks to them! Might even have a go at soldering next time I need to do some pipe work. Thanks for making this possible.
Couldn't agree more
Soldering is so easy lol
Cheers bro, Answering in the next comments vid!
Hi mate
Great videos keep them coming.
After 22yrs military service I’m now retraining tiling / bathroom installations.
Definitely going to make loads of mistakes along the way. Remember to FAIL is just the FIRST ATTEMPT IN LEARNING (FAIL).
Cheers man!
I have just completed a successful diy basin installation thanks to your videos. Woo!
Superb little video, as always. Lovely stuff. The man who has made no mistakes has made nothing.
Would also recommend cleaning the pipe after soldering as well? Around 17 years back we had a new heating system fitted and some pipe work done. 15 years afterwards water through the kitchen ceiling. Seems not all of the flux splatter had been removed from the pipes leaving it to eat through the pipes and form pin holes..
Since following advice on You Tube on using jointing compound and not over tightening compression fittings the number of water features in our house has dropped to zero in past years. Thanks mainly to James!
Answering in the next comments vid!
Nice video. I'm not a plumber but have learned all these tricks over the years through trial and error. Some swear by ptfe and others say don't put it on the olive. Its always worked for me.
Most plumber who I’ve used do cowboy jobs . Just recently when my plumber drained the radiator for cleaning when he put it back I saw him not using the jointing compound. When told he said it doesn’t need it and when the system was pressured back it started leaking after I added inhibitor . He drained, I told him it’s leaking and he drained it again loosing my inhibitor and he messed up my other jobs too . I’ve lost faith on these plumber who are very dishonest. I’ve learnt what is the right way on videos like this but lack confidence. Thanks James for all the information you share to the world which helps me a bit against these cowboy tradesmen around .
Fact is, he's correct. The manufacturer of the compression fittings advise *not* to use any form of jointing compound or PTFE tape. Although, it does put higher requirements on the sizing and quality of the olives, pipework, and fittings to ensure that they deform correctly. It's supposed to be a compression fit - they use this form of connection for ultra high vacuum systems. They're not just water tight, they're air tight. And air tight to the next level. But only when done right with quality parts. So... I can see why people such as yourself use a "belt and braces" approach and apply a dab of compound anyway, but it's against OEM guidelines.
Nice work . I wrap ptfe onto a pencil and then roll the pencil around the fitting, great in those hard to get to spots. Put your pencil in a drill if you want to spool a lot of tape on. Reversing threads for the "click" is one of the first mechanical tricks I learned, probably fixing me Chopper or Grifter in the 70s 🙂
You must have been the strongest person on earth to lift a grifter 💪
@@dillsplosion5334 Nah just make sure you're out with mates and it's downhill to home🤣
Handy for fixing reservoirs in shower units
This video was a lot of fun. It lifted me out of DIY plumbing despair.
YES BOI!
An ESSENTIAL video. A click must. Water leaks can be so damaging, so got to get it right. Thank you for presenting these so well as always.
@plumberparts - thanks for this - i'm a DIY'er and wanted my downstairs loo refurb to be a personal project - was connecting a new compression tap valve to 1960's pipework and kept getting a drip - yep i put ptfe on the thread!!! It's now on the olive - THANK YOU!
I use a couple of turns of ptfe tape on olives, I seen that manufactures of compression fittings say it's not necessary to use pipe putty, I use it on threaded joints with hemp, still the best combo.
I know several plumbers who do put pipe dope on compression threads. It’s not to seal but is used as a lubricant. I don’t know if it changes anything except you don’t hear that creaking noise but I guess it doesn’t hurt. As for overtightening, my philosophy for the most part is to smug it up. You can always tighten it a little more if it leaks. Of course this doesn’t apply to iron pipe threads. They can handle overtightening and if you just snug things then you may have to take quite a few fittings apart to fix a leak. There’s a trick I have related to water messing with solder. It’s not super clever and it may be aimed at Americans more than UK. With check valves on almost every fixture in a house it’s hard to drain the water down. I’ve had to fix copper water yard lines and you can’t open a hose Bibb to break the vacuum. I guess you could blow on it or run a cord and use a compressor. I carry a pair of vise grips and I put them on the plastic plumber of hose Bibb vacuum breakers and let them hang. They’ll hold it open so it will slow air in the break the vacuum. It’s especially nice when your muddy and can’t go inside to use something there. Lastly there’s a trick for threaded pipe I learned from my first boss. If you have an old threaded connection that you just can’t seem to break loose, reverse your wrenches and tighten it. Why you can tighten it easier than loosen it is beyond me but it breaks the hardened dope and then you can unthread it much easier. It seems completely counter intuitive but it sure works
Very informative! Can you tell me again what is the material you used to tank the floor of your bathroom? It stuck to the 9mm ply sheet you put down?
I had a shower put in and we’ll things were not done how they should have. So the more I can do to stop leaks or water coming through my ceiling the better. Thank you again! Just got to work out how to drain the hot water down so I can put an isolation valve in. 🖖
Very good hints however I have a question. Should we use PTFE tape everytime on threads when we are using jointing compound as well? Can we use one of these or should we use both at one time?
When i got married at 19 my father in law wanted me to have a trade so he took me to work with him at weekends and some evenings to learn the trade unfornately he was a painter!!! i wanted to be a plumber!! great tips
All good tips... some pro's dont even do some of them. Re PTFE on compression fittings, I always put a couple of turns on the threads - not to seal them but to assist in reducing the brass to brass squeeky friction when tightening.
You don't need PTFE tape on compression fittings. They're precision made fittings and as long as the pipe fits squarely into the body of the fitting then it won't leak. I was an electrician/plumber for some years, I retired about 15 years ago at the age of 48, but during my working life I worked on many houses built in the late 50's early 60's and onwards and most of them still had their original compression fittings. None of the original fittings had PTFE tape or any kind of sealing compound on them as these products didn't exist back then. You would sometimes come across hemp seals in other fittings or a toilet soil pipe sealed with putty and paint. The only time I would use PTFE tape on a normal compression fitting is if I was connecting a new compression fitting/body to an old nut where the olive was embedded into the copper pipe. Of course, there are many other uses for PTFE tape in plumbing.
@@truthseeker7794 they used boss white back then on most compression fittings . seen red lead used as well
@@anthony342 I only ever saw it on bigger fittings such as tank connectors and back boilers with the old 1inch copper. Yes I remember my dad using red lead on the immersion heater thread.
@@truthseeker7794 you sir are somebody who knows about plumbing just from that reply
Many years ago I elanred that PTFE should be on the olive and it made perfect sense, however I was today years old when I learned that compound could be used instead. My experience with compound has always been that of an observer trying to fix something and it seems to have appeared in places where the manufacturer has supplied a substantial rubber washer and used the words "do not use compound" in the instructions. A fiver for a little tub is fine and it can sit in my plumbing odds and sods box.
Thanks!
You forgot to mention not putting inserts inside the plastic pipes and soft copper pipes. May be in part two if there is enough suggestions. 😉
Thank for the video!
I've installed my own CH. I made an air trap - in such a way as it self-bleeds the system. One leg of it has a piece of 10mm pipe - that's the only piece I forgot to put inserts in !
Excellent advice, James. Have you a link to the drill attachment you used for cleaning the copper pipe? That looked really handy.
Great info vid', for diyers and pros' alike.
I must admit I got 9/10 😇 but have been doing diy for over 50yrs.
Great vids, keep them up 👍
Very Useful for an amateur - and a professional - Thank you
I've been binging your vids. I ordered some "Jetlube jointing compound" and some "Loctite sealing cord". I've been getting away with basic plumbing for years. I'm hoping these two products will help makes things easier.
BTW, I'm not young or an apprentice, and have done thousands of jobs, including fitting kitchens. It's still good to watch tips videos.
Cheers for this! Started as a plumber last week with a friend! Hes taught me some.of these already but good reinforcement
Something else came to mind Don’t forget to deburr the inner part of the copper pipe,where the cut is made. keep a nice clean flow of water. Nice video always handy info,👍🏻
That's what the deburring tool on your pipe cutter is for ;)
deburr the inner part of the copper to prevent sound to,
makes a big differents in how it will sound using water.
@@millomweb unfortunately my two pipe cutters don’t have a deburring tool attached so I have just bought a deburring pencil. Great bit of kit.
Currently gutting and redoing the bathroom. Did all rhe plumbing turned the water on on had few weeps tightend them up then others started weeping. Turned water off had a smoke had a think back to what my dad used to do found some ptfe tape in 1 of my tool boxes n taped up all joints all sound now.
Prob should of had the smoke n watched this vid 1st thing this mornin rather than at 9.30 at night. I did watch your mixer shower install vid this morning as that was my 1st task.
U dint mention the jointing compound on there I don't think
Here in Ireland historically for a long long time we kept with the Imperial cooper pipework and fittings ... For the likes of retro fitting Boiler's folks here use adapter's maybe in a similar way to Blighty... Steel pipe fittings can be a real mess as the American Imported products use National Pipe Thread ... NPT... Where as the British use British Pipe Thread ... B S.P. ... Things get Sketchy when some D.I.Y. folk try to Push On or Click Fit metric pipe Fittings onto old Imperial pipe.... Great Upload....
I was taught at college (many, many years ago) that a new compression fitting does not need PTFE tape or jointing compound adding to make a water tight seal. I stick with that to this day and very rarely get a problem.
depends on the brand , conex dont , but cheap tool station do .
Me too, 5 year apprenticeship 1960, would have been sacked if I had followed any of this advice.
That got me triggered to.lol.
@@anthony342 No!
if a press fitting needs any compound or tape, its just junk!
@@erikt9677 you dont use anything on push fit pal
Love it! What's do you call the drill attachment to clean the pipe? Thanks!
Not young, not an apprentice but still I've learnt heaps, brill video, cheers my friend.
Click bait??? Never. Great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Is the jointing compound used on compression fittings the same stuff that's used for making threaded connections with linen/flax/hemp? Mine says "sealing compound" on the box, so I'm unsure if that's the same thing...
Good stuff, I am 56 years old and I have learned quite a bit of things here now
Thanks for the tips. Some I wasn't aware of. But making mistakes don't teach you unless you know you've made a mistake ;-) but next DIY plumbing job I hope I'll recall enough to be better informed.
No it wasn't click-batey, some very useful tips thank you.
Oh! As an old-time cable jointer, I'f never contaminate any surface I was going to tin lol. No greasy fingers on the prepared pipe mate :-)
That was a great video... Very helpful and entertaining at the same time. Thank you so much
Please please please can you tell me where you got the pipe cleaning thing on the drill please? Thanks
Is hawk white (non-potable) OK for rad valve fittings on a combi boiler system?
Discovering Jet Blue jointing compound was my biggest DIY plumbing improvement. Handy brush built into the lid too.
Do you mean Jet Lube?
@@45graham45 Yes that was a typo Jet Lube V-2 plus
What's that pipe polishing bit you've got in the Bosh drill?
I can't find a link for it, but maybe I haven't looked hard enough.
You are amazing! You can really wind PTFD beautifully. I bet you can even tie your shoes all by yourself! 😁
Easy! Use copper endfeed fittings, no dead legs. Flexihoses are being removed due to disease in medical environments. Great techniques, I don’t exactly agree but we all do stuff differently.
Any chance of some info on where you get that powered pipe cleaner you used on your drill please. Struggling to find one. ta
I’m more of a builder then I am plumber, I’m bathroom installer, a gas engineer I use a lot said I shouldn’t ptfe the threads said I should ptfe the olive and jet blue the olive and remainder of the pipe, what is you’re take on that method ?
The gas engineer was talking about compression fittings where the seal is made on the olive and his advice is perfectly sound, though I am sure he means use either PTFE or jointing compound not both. You only PTFE the thread when using a male threaded joint. The most common example in bathrooms would probably be the male 1/2" bsp fitting on the towel radiator tail which you would wrap in PTFE before inserting. In this example there is no olive, the seal being made on the thread.
Does jointing compound work on plastic. My toilet water supply is copper. It has a square "olive" When you tighten the nut, it pulls the plastic threaded pipe edge against the square "olive". I have used PTFE, LX compound with no success. I always a weeping leak. The plastic threaded pipe goes into the toilet cistern and the float etc
Great no nonsense video because we have all done those things in this video in the past 😀
Mate I am total Newbie, leccy stuff I'm okay with and chippy stuff but anything around water not to good, so any advice you give is great, meaning less ear bashing from the trouble and strife when when I don't flood the bathroom 🤣🤣
Great videos… just wondering about compression fittings on Jg speed fit? I don’t feel like jointing compound would be right.. but they do they leak a bit without tape,..I don’t think I’m over tightening 🤔
I had a heating engineer come and service my combi boiler and he replaced the PRV but the new one had tapered threads and he didn't use ptfe and so it would lose pressure every day but because the valve was on top of the water store it was evaporating so it took him 3 call outs before he solved the issue
What was the tool you used to clean the end of the pipe before soldiering and where did you buy it
I'm just trying to work out the thinking behind this shelf in your workshop.
What is the difference between the potable and non-potable jointing compound? Is there any benefit to the non-potable one or could you just use the potable compound on everything?
Ive only used potable, but it seems thicker and easy to apply without needing tool to mix it or apply. I reckon as the non potable stuff is thinner it'll probably stick better.
The best advice given is about making mistakes 👍
Very useful thank you especially about compression fittings.
Hi thanks for the video it's great. Should you deburr a pipe i.e. on the inside too? And if yes what tool should you use. Or isn't it necessary? There's some videos knocking around saying it's important to do that too. Thanks.
Yes. Burrs on the inside cause ebbs and flows like in rivers and this causes spot errosion in copper pipes over time from the inside. Many cylindrical deburrers (as oppsed to pen type deburrers) debur both inner and outer sides of pipe at the same time
Debuting will also reduce noise, caused when the water flowing over the burr….
Where do you get the de-burrer attachment from for the drill? Not in Screwfix or B&Q or Wickes etc
Do you have a link the the drill pump you mention in the video please? I can search on amazon of course but I assume anything you are using is reasonable quality and worth buying.. I'd love your recommendation.. I have been to your web store on amazon but I cant see a search option, within your store...
I must admit I did not know about the jointing compound on compression joints, thanks for that one, cheers
Forget about it !
I've been taught by a Plumber with 27 years experience, and he told me (and showed me) how to put PTFE onto the thread of fittings. Never again!
James! Please tell me you have heard of the trick of using the hole of a bacho spanner to turn ceased stopcocks open/shut, they have actually got a grove that the stop cock handle sits again, such a great way in tight spaces!!!
Good until the whole stopcock arm wrestling loosens everything or deforms the pipe. If wd40 won't do it forget it. Time to change it
Sorry to take issue with you but as a plumber of 60 years,you never put paste on a new compression fitting and that comes from the manufacturer. Only use paste when reassembling an old fitting if it leaks.
Also your torch flame was to far from the pipe, the end of the dark blue flame is the hottest part.
Hi James
Happy New Year. Love the bathroom especially the funky tiles. Don’t get hammered and look at that pattern!
Anyway just a long ish one to pick your brain. Mate of mine calls me up/ he’s pilot holed the very waffer top of an old thick CH pipe with a drill bit. Hole is tiny with a fine counter sink around the rim of hole. Almost like a volcano. Anyways the plonkers only gone and done it on the most complex bend I’ve ever seen. Two sharp off sets with a kick. I’d have tried to replicate but I was on another planet with worst brain fog after two weeks of COVID. I basically cleaned up the area until I could see myself in it, fluxed the hole and blobbed a lovely bit of leaded solder on, It worked great. What’s your opinion on the strength of this, unpressurised system. Long term.
Sorry forgot to say
Thanks v much
Answering in the next comments vid!
Thank you for your time to explain this, it really helped me today
I always do that trick to avoid cross threading, can't tell you how many times someone chimes in "wrong way or righty tighty". Yes.... I know. Then I explain why I'm doing it so they can learn as well.
Hi. Where can I buy a drill attachment for a drill to clean the pipes? Is showing in fix7 part, but I can found on Internet anything like that.
A couple of things you did not say!! To ensure a compression joint tightens smoothly put a bit of grease on the olive as modern olives do not contain lead as a lubricant. A dry joint squeals and will not do up tightly. Point 2 - cross threading. Some toilet filler valves have a plastic shank so a cross threaded nut will feel ok but it is not!! It will leak and if the nut has gone on a long way you will never get a nut to go back to the correct thread. You cannot hear a click!! All I can say is put the nut on carefully and 'feel' if its tightening correctly. Only experience knows if it is!! Try to fit fillers with a brass shank.
Where do you get your minimum of 6 turns from ?
It seems excessive to me.
Ceep using less, you will learn,lol.
@@erikt9677 By 6 turns, I was taking that as 6 layers. If the turns are along a thread, different matter. A sealing thread shouldn't need that much due to its taper.
2 turns will suffice.
found this video very informative and useful.
Top lad james keep the good work up👍👍
Jointing compound / pipe dope is never needed on compression sleeves. In fact, this will fail inspection in many places.
You don't need PTFE tape either; if you've buggered the sleeve just replace that part for a proper leak-free connection.
Beautiful 😍 thanks
Yes, I have been there many years ago. I am an amateur but have done a lot of plumbing in the four houses that I have owned. Never plunged an urinal but have broken a shower base by vigorously plunging it. Had to renew the shower , it was plastic but I would not do that again.
A wet vac is better. Sucks the blockage out of the pipe and no risk of blowing joints apart.
First time i cleared a basin blockage i got the wet crotch , never again ! block up those overflows ! :)
Top man, always useful advice and fun to watch !
The Master of his trade. Anyone lucky enough to be is apprentice should thank There Lucy stars. What a brilliant teacher
Some of the time I use "pipe dope" (just a little dab) on the male thread of a compression fitting just for lubrication. Not really as a sealant...just a lube. You can get another 1/4 to 1/2 turn on your compression nut..no leaks....☺
Just been undoing some plumbing and there's silicone sealant around the olives and threads 😱
Noob here (I don't mind the descriptor, at all :) )I wrap PTFE round every thread, just to be om the safe side. Am I right in thinking I'm wasting my time (and tape) then?
That's a good call, you put the PTFE tape on the correct side of the olive. Unlike most plumbers
Brilliant advice, thank you!
Just to say big thank you for all your great videos 📹 👍
Whats the name of the pipe cleaner bit ? And where can i buy it ?
Thx
Personally, of all the compressions I've seen leak exactly all of them had jointing compound on them and no PTFE tape. Jointing compound obviously helps but the tape seems to be far more effective.
The mess of jointing compound ! And opening the tin each time. Hell ! . PTFE all day or loctite 55 where needed for loose fitting rad threads
I was told that if you solder with any water in the pipe, it can pop the other soldered joints, is this an exaggeration? what kind of pipe distance do you have to keep water free if you were putting a joint on it? also, hold tight!
I'm learning a lot from you sir you are a genius
Great video. Im just starting out and it’s great to know the common mistakes. 👍
What happened to good old hemp before PTFE tape was invented still got some in shed
Apparently hemp can harbour bacteria and leaded solder poisons you. Those were the days.
What is that pipe cleaning tool on the drill called?
Excellent teach in the video,i just wondered does anybody actually still uses hemp, and boswhite , anymore,i still have a pack in my garage and would still swear by it for most threaded joints,thanks again.
Where can I buy the copper pipe cleaning drill attachment please?....hold tight!!
Good knowledge and helpful for house wife
must admit, I've never wrapped PTFE round an olive before, always binned it and put on a new one...but hey..if it works!
Always good to see the simple stuff. 👏👏👍