Thank you for this informative video. I had a gas leak in my house. My wife called me at work saying that she smelled gas. Using soapy water & a leak detector, I found the leak. I shut off the gas & replaced some black iron fittings, pipes & valves. After I was done, I had a licensed plumber inspect my work. After the green light with no leaks, all is good now. Thanks again. GOD bless you! "Let the thief no longer steal, but rather let him labor, doing honest work with his own hands, so that he may have something to share with anyone in need. ' Ephesions 4:28
You know how to do it and you're good and getting it done, then you generously and seamlessly share with us. You've got a knack for instruction, Thank for sharing.
I understand you never want to be called out for a repair but I much prefer pipe dope and I've been fitting pipe for 40+ years. Don't even use tape. I like the fact you did the pressure test before securing everything, a practice everybody should get in the habit of doing. I pressure test all pipes. Thanks for your videos, learned a lot about painting as I hate that task.
I spoke to an old timer who was in the plumbing business in the 70s and he said all plumbers used was pipe dope, before Teflon tape was available for purchase.
I like to apply a very thin even coat to the threads inside the fitting as well. I was fitting some 2 inch air line once and it leaked with just dope applied to the pipe, so took back apart, doped inside of fitting as well and it didn't leak upon reassembly.
In the future when applying tape, you should always apply the tape one or two threads from the end of pipe, to prevent the tape from peeling off on the inside and clogging a gas orifice.
1. Pipe dope is to keep the threads from balling up when tightening. 2. Pipe dope is also used so that one can take it apart in the future. 3. It's the metal to metal contact that is supposed to seal the joint....NOT Teflon tape. 4. Teflon is used by rookies who can't make a good thread on their pipe (threading) machine.
@@readmore3634 Assuming that the pipe threader was carefully and properly lubricated - How many threads should you make before you have to replace your pipe threading dies do you recommend?
I like that your videos don't have unnecessary commenting and you're not talking with music playing (most annoying for we people with some hearing loss).
very well put together video, time spent on explaining and working with no extra white noise makes it very educational. No drip leg on your verticle runs before final union, I would highly recomend having drip legs. Not code in all areas yet but a good practice otherwise.
I was also wondering why the drip legs were missing , good practice to protect your appliances from unwanted moisture which can contribute to operating issues or component pre- mature failure.
One of My favorites: Pipe fitting. I pretty much do design/ build on most all of my work and although I primarily do existing and not new construction, I *always* use soapy water to test the lines, the second you don't - you will have a liability issue. I *really* like your home made manometer and will make one up one of these days! My most recent pipe fitting was with a meter that was not ideally placed and way undersized. The owner wanted to feed 2 furnaces (the one for upstairs was 80k btu; downstairs was 60k Btu - yep, those peeps installed backwards.. 🙄 The meter was near the furnaces. The 60k btu furnace was 2nd in tandem line from the meter & had a branch going to a 45k btu fireplace. 90 degree turn to feed a gas stove - and then a190k btu Navien combi DHW heater! The owner wanted to minimize pipe runs, which was not going to happen as the sum total was also in excess of the meters capability, So we had to have the utility provider replace and adjust the pressure to the correct water column before going live with this service. Also important when designing a gas service, one really should run supply to the highest BTU appliance first -- especially with an on-demand Domestic Hot Water heater is present as they are typically the highest consumer in line. If otherwise, you will quite likely choke the operation when driving a 40` F inbound ambient water temp up to 120` F with that kind of demand for fuel. Not to mention *and most important here* is that is per manufacturer recommendation, which in turn is what your local code officials use for inspection. Speaking of demand, your install was a basic new build design that did not require much consideration with only two appliances. In my world of "old work" we must perform calculations for the BTU Load along with length of run and number of turns to ensure proper piping sizes. Also, in my jurisdiction, we are required to install "Drip-T" fitting under the last vertical branch/ leg (in place of the elbows you used under the appliance) where a "T" fitting and a 3" minimum leg into a cap is installed to catch any sediment that may enter into the fuel lines to prevent potential issues with the orifices' and or burners of the appliance being clogged with debris. At the appliance side for mechanicals, such as a hot water tank, furnace or DHW unit, I always use a union for later serviceability/ when it comes time to remove/ replace that mechanical, which is not applicable for fireplaces or stoves as shown in your install. Finally, here a valve at the appliance is also required, again not applicable to your install, yet certainly noteworthy. At the end of the day I prefer black pipe and typically minimize/ limit flex pipe runs: Solid Black Pipe will have a lot less drag on the flow where I've seen corrugate pipe fail to deliver sufficient fuel to the higher volume DHW appliances due to the number of turns (similar with black pipe the number of elbows will produce drag on the fuel flow all of which needs to be accounted for, especially on longer runs and/ or with higher btu appliances... Corrugated flexible pipe is convenient to use, but a lot more expensive where the fittings can really add up quickly as well. Corrugated flex pipe has special through-wall or through-floor fittings which should be used there when passing through a substrate. One *really* should be certified to install that brand of corrugated gas pipe by that manufacturer where most supply houses also require that certification for purchase. The bonding for corrugated piping is also a completely different animal all together which can and does vary between different types of corrugated pipe. Black pipe being rigid also offers a lot greater protection of the line from any damage, is easier to bond and has better flow. When buying black pipe it is often times rather pricey when buying the pre-cut/ pre-threaded pipe compared to a 10 foot lengths which can be cut & threaded at most stores. The issue can be not having the correct lengths in the field, especially if you do not have a pipe cutter and threading machine. Another newer item is whole house surge protection. The way bonding is set up and installed in a new build has changed quite a bit with the advance of pex pipe and national codes have driven these changes into our reality from the old ways. So if you do not have the current knowledge and practical advanced skills,, it is simply best to leave this job to a professional. Awesome video - as always! Best regards, Ck Maintenance, Schenectady, NY
I think getting certified in csst is a good idea too. Seems like the joints are much more confusing than other gas line options. I always buy the precut 10’ sections because of the ease of availability at big box stores. I love how detailed your comments are. I feel like I learn something from each one of your comments and I appreciate that! I want this community to be a place we all can share ideas and knowledge. I hope all is well with you! Thanks for the comment and watching Ck Maintenance!
I have experience in copper, CSST, BMP, and polyethylene .... BMP has it's place, but, it is no longer the standard. Certification, sure, why not, it can't hurt. Old school is new school, longest length method or branch theory, as long as it's done right. It MUST always be inspected by local code authority to protect yourself. In my neck of the woods, if CSST is connected to an appliance that is plugged into the wall with three prongs [grounded], the line itself is NOT required to be bonded, as the plug is already bonded. Except mostly for penetrations and certain circumstances, BMP is a thing of the past. Very unforgiving, lasts much less longer, very costly in labor, and is time consuming. You can do three houses in CSST in the time it takes to do one in BMP. Very unprofitable.
@Buck Rogers I've had people say that to me before but I'm in a different industry. Why do you run a ground wire if the equipment has a 3 prong power cable ? I just do what the manufacturer recommends.
@@Jimbo234GW Local authorities are not authorities anymore...they're always asking me (35yrs master, foreman plumber) What's that pipe for? Is that a vent? What's a wet vent? Loop vent?... I don't do permitted work anymore unless it's a complete house...inspectors are a pain in the a$$. I can cut and install 3 houses a day in BMP, not easy to drive a nail through it either...It's a bit of an art to design an easy system to install....and then pre-fab the whole (tract) job, back when I did tract work....not anymore. I have my own pipe machine...very profitable. I use CSST mostly for island sink/ranges and if a distance gas line is needed in an existing house. Custom houses and remodel is much quieter, less stressful and my customers appreciate good work.
INCREDIBLE job man! Hope your week is going to be a great one and SUPER job again on the vid. It's already been an EXCELLENT year for you and your channel. Thanks Josh.
I appreciate that Thor! I try to get work done and film at same time so it can be challenging but it works! I hope your projects are going great. Have an awesome day!
Always good to see using the tape and sealant. Have always found it much easier to work with. I have also put in a tee with a 4" nipple and capped just in case a certain job may want to add an additional gas item but I have added an additional valve so I wouldn't have to shut the gas off and of course making sure a piece of pipe and cap is added (As Long as code allows). I like the pressure test cap you have. I'm going to change the way mine is set up. So good to see the pipe bonded as well. So many times I would never see it done and it is code in our area. As always fantastic job Josh.
Yes! It is definitely wise to add an extra tee in case you want to add something in the future. I was going to do that but I cannot think of any thing else I would ever want to add later. I do like using the tape and sealant for extra security. Most people think that is overkill but I think why not. Bonding is something I also find important. It is code here to do that anyways. I hope all of your projects are going well and you are doing good. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting David!
@@TheExcellentLaborer that extra security costs so little but does protect the project just like pressure testing is so, so important. I've done tests on things and found leaks on an area I didn't do in a remodel. That can be a challenge if you have a long run not being able to back thread the pipe. I too love using black pipe and of course gloves. 👍🏻 Be safe.
On a positive note Josh, I'm glad I watched this video! Why? Because adding gas-pipe-goop -after having applied gas-thread-tape- further insures that every minute gap is sealed! Nice!👍
Thanks Robert. I do like the double protection. They did not mention the ground rod instead of the panel bonding but I’d say it would work too. Thanks for your input!
I always enter the structure with 1” black pipe and make sure there is a union plus where you have your run for your stove I would have made a manifold with individual shut offs and nipples with caps for future supplies … Dryer, Hot water heater, Furnace, Grill…. Good run glad to see you use pipe dope … the state I live in it’s code to have a shut off at the gas fireplace along with the chase being fire proof
Great comment Fred. I have an old house with half inch (maybe 3/4) pipe coming out of the ground going up about 8-10 inches then 90 deg elbow and nipple/pipe that goes into exterior brick and into the house. I want to plumb NG for my generator which would be right there anyway (outlet for generator is right there nearby). I am thinking I need a T fitting there on the pipe coming out of the ground to supply generator. I believe that means cutting out that section of pipe coming out of the ground and using a union along with the T fitting to accomplish this. Meter is about 26 feet away. Thoughts on that approach? Thanks.
@@condor5635 Yes a Tee is what you need to start your exterior run, after your piping is finished I would recommend that you paint your exterior piping with rustoleum paint .. it is code here that exterior black pipe must be painted black.. I hope this helps you and be safe with NG and always check for leaks when done installing…
Nice video. I watched your video and several other people's videos for entertainment. My conclusion, several people don't know what the hell they are doing. However, your video was one of the best relaring to natural gas pipe inatalation
In some places the code/utility companies discourage or prohibit ground wires connecting to gas lines, due to the fact that sparks are able to ignite the gas. They recommend using a dedicated grounding rod to attach ground wires to. Great job. Thanks for the content. Keep up the good work. בס'ד
You're pretty good. I did not quite get the temporary fitting for the pressure test, so I will have to see it again. Tape and compound is always best when you want a sure seal. I myself like to gently fill in the female treads, and if need be, scrape any extra rise with a blade, and I liked that idea of one of your commenters who suggested to stop the tape a few threads away from the end. I am in the same thing now with an uninhabitable house. Demo/build, reassignment of rooms, etc. You just gotta love a good headache, backache, and getting tired and dirty to really get into it, and then deal with all the trouble it involves. I gotta see more of your videos.
@@spydergs07 correct...although tape does have it's place in plumbing. I've ran miles and miles of gas pipe in tract homes.....miles and miles...no tape needed with good threads and malleable pipe.
I prefer unions over couplings to make things easier to remove if you do have a leaky fitting and if the elbow doesn't point the right way, you can easily rotate the pipe.
I read unions are good for 1 time then they need to have pipe dope on the surfaces. I did pressure test with unions and they leaked the second time I tightened them.
Nicely done. Thank you for providing the information. Funny how I see people making comments about “thats not the way.” In my opinion, those are the people who consider themselves “professional” and hate the You Tube channel because it educates people on how to do it themselves vs. paying a “professional” thousands of dollars to do the job. Again, thank you for the information.
Thank you very much for your videos many of your videos are the best and best videos l have seen my English is not very good but through your explanations and introductions l really understand a lot l am from china and l see that many of your videos are building a new house l may understand half of what you said but l really really really like your video thank you for your hard work
Hi Chinese I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab. 地球不是圓的，你曉得了嗎
I always thought bad about gas lines I was so afraid , now after this vid I find out is super easy just like water plumbing , last year I learned electrical work bc of you ,now gas gas plumbing , thanks alot Mr laborer keep up the hard word work made easy
A little-known fact about pipe joint compound is that it does not only lubricate the threads but it also fills the spiral leakage path of NPT threads. The thread specification calls for the crests and troughs of NPT threads to be truncated or flattened, not coming to a sharp point, and that allows a spiral leakage path which pipe joint compound fills. There is another thread specification called "dryseal" or NPTF (National Pipe Taper Fuel) which has sharp crests and troughs and theoretically can seal without pipe joint compound, but the compound is often used anyway, for lubrication and to seal any imperfection that might exist.
4 years of US Plumbers Union apprenticeship and never heard that. The metal to metal contact is supposed to make the seal...(in a perfect world)...everything else is to help make the joint up and be able to take it apart in the future. It's like a cork (tapered threads) that can't blow out.
Hey Josh, thank you for sharing this buddy, I've built a few things out of that black pipe😄but have never run it as gas line, so I learned how this morning and I didn't know about the different colors of thread tape so I guess I've learned a couple things today.😁Have a Blessed day my friend!!! Jay.
Typically yellow thread tape is for gas, white is for air and water, and blue monster is for all. I’m glad you found some value in this video. Black pipe is definitely a universal supply that can be used for many things. I hope everything is going good for you. Thanks for watching Jay!
I just watched your TH-cam, where pressure test a gas line at 100psi . Pressure testing gas line is very specifically spelled out in code books . Usually low pressure gas lines in a building are measured by inches of water gage , (wg) . There are 27.6 wg per 1 pound of pressure . The code reads, 1 1/2 test pressure of in line , gas pressure is required . Propane is normally 11 to 12 wg running pressure . Not even half a pound . So 1 1/2 times running pressure is quite low . If you test at 6 psi for a 24 hour period, your good . Too much pressure will blow your sealant out of joints weakening the overall system . Keep in mind if the temperature is cold when test pressure is applied , and it goes up to 90o , your pressure gage will be higher , say 7psi or so .
@@jeepsaroundThe gas meter should not be seeing that pressure. There should be a valve to isolate the new pipe from the old system, then just check that one (or few) connections with a leak check solution. I have seen leaks in the side of cheap Chinese elbows(not the threaded joint) so always check the entire length, not just the joint.
I watch a lot of your videos but don't know that your install is the best ideas. Not using drip legs and couplings over unions. If you need to change anything or repair a section down the road you will be stuck undoing a lot of pipe. Use a tee and plug versus a elbow might be good idea then if you need to add an appliance you pull the plug and start a new feed.
Hey Daniel! Thanks for watching the channel! Yes adding those things like be the best setup but I have no plans on adding additional appliances. Hope all is well with you!
You should only pressure test with 20 psig on black pipe and never 100 psig. NG is only a 7 inch system (approx. 0.25 psi) after meter or 2 psi after a 2 pound meter. Propane runs at around 11 or 12 inches (approx. 0.5 psi). Also, you should use unions so that if you ever had to take it apart to replace any pipe or add additional pipe/fittings for future expansion of additional appliances (i.e. tankless water heater, furnace, grill, etc.). You should also install drip legs/sediment traps before each appliance. Gas can contain contaminants (especially NG) and the sediment traps will remove debris before the regulators and appliances.
National fuel gas code says house lines (lines after the meter) need tested at 3# for 10 minutes. You are correct on lp and ng pressures. Unions,, Who worries about the next guy. LOL
I'm hooking up my 10000 BTU propane ventless heater - to a 120 gal. propane tank. My cottage is only an 8x12 so if I add another room later this heater would do just fine. Thanks much.
I need to T of my ouside gasline to my shop. There is already a valve outside off the meter that was put in for a fire place in the house. I am removing the fireplace so i wanted to use that connection. I will be running black steel pipe under the deck and then down into my trench going across the lawn. My question is can i use black pipe for under the ground using an epoxy coating where the pipe is buried? If so what product would you recommend. The run will be about 40 ft long with about 25 ft underground. Appreciate the videos!
I want to add gas to my kitchen for a stove from existing home gas line. I have existing gas to both furnaces, water heater, my fire place and a gas grill on the backyard deck. I’ve been told to do it properly, they need to run all new pipe to meet code. My house is a little over 20 years old and the gas lines were installed when the house was built. Did the original builder not do it right, the repair people are pulling my leg, or have codes changed? Thanks.
Can I Bond electrically anywhere where the black gas pipe is? In other words do I have to start my bond where the gas meter enters the basement? Or can I bond it in the middle of the basement you know what I'm trying to ask?
Thank you for this video. We have old black iron gas pipe with a 90-degree joint that has a very faint gas leak smell if you put your nose right up to it. Is there anything (pipe dope?) that could be slathered on the outside of the joint to address this or is this a useless thing to try? Thanks!
do you have a video similar to the video for basic drain sizes for plumbing?.. I'm getting acclimated with gas fittings now, currently trying to figure out which parts to get to hook up an appliance and a I am struggling to understand the measurements for gas fittings, or know what sizes I currently have at home.
9:00 : a tee or cross tee with caps/plugs for the future is a plus. I used a 3/4 main pipe with 3/4 tee or cross tee and a reducer for the 1/2 pipe. do this on either or both ends.
It will work well. But if your point of entry in like 2 in 2 1/2 inch then definitely run a few on the end then more wraps where the thread meats the pipe to prevent leaks
Excellent Video. Thank you very much, I like the fact you used the tape and sealant at the same time. I have a question, I am switching from Propane to Natural gas. The gas company stated that have to run black pipe 3/4 inch directly to the water heater Rinnai 199 tankless which is about 60 to 70 feet from the outside meter. Then I have to stub off to the heating, fireplace and stove. I would imagine that they would all be half inch? I built homes for a living many years ago, but the gas company gave me a price I cannot afford, so I am thinking about pulling a permit and doing it myself. My question is since it is 70 feet away, do you think 3/4 inch is ok or should the first 30 feet be 1 inch and then go down to 3/4 to give it pressure? I am going to get other estimates but the price they gave was a shocker since many people in the neighborhood paid nothing. Robert from North Carolina
Why isn't the fittings black in color like the black Iron pipe? Will a magnet stick to an Iron pipe like some say it does to galvanized? Is the threading better on a black Iron pipe than a galvanized pipe?
Good job! Personally I would have added a minimum of 2 drip legs (12”) one for the range and other the fireplace. I would also have used a union instead of a coupling, purpose is for serviceability. I would have the shut-off inside the house instead of outside, the propane tank has it’s own. I would also have a fireplace shut-off valve in-line. How would you control the fireplace gas? Thanks….Jim PS…….I live in the Midwest and have installed black iron and copper gas lines.
Hey Jim! I appreciate your input. I placed the shut off outside so I can turn off the system when changing the tanks. Yes drip legs would be best. I have never had an issue not having a drip leg so I didn’t add one. Thank you for watching!
Jim you are correct with the union and drip legs. If he ever gets natural gas then his piping would all be good. Natural gas can get dirt and debris in the lines especially when a pipe gets accidentally cut anywhere in the system. While fixing the broken line dirt will get into the line and go through the system. The drip legs can keep the dirt from hitting any regulators.
@@TheExcellentLaborer You need shut-off valves next to every appliance. The outside valve it nice to change tanks but does not meet the safety requirement should there be a leak. Gas is not something you want to cheat when it comes to safety.
If you have black pipe running under your food truck straight from tanks without a regulator but use a regulator on each piece of equipment does this bring back the safety issues?
My local Home Depot sells malleable black iron fittings and black steel pipes and nipples. I read you shouldn't mix the two due to dissimilar metal corrosion. But why would Home Depot sell dissimilar items to use together? Can I mix these for natural gas installations?
Hey there. New handyman about a year out and this video really helped me figure out an even simpler job regarding gas piping. Thank you so much. Just curious what City/state are you working in?
Hey brother I love your content. Have a question to transition from 3/4 iron pipe to 1/2 inch copper pipe for LP gas. What fitting or shut off valve should I use from the iron pipe to the copper. Thank Ya
Great video! I know u entertainment only but it is simpler than I thought with installing. Do u recommend getting license before a gas line installation?
LOL, our local Lowes did not cut pipe. Nor did they know of a tool to thread pipe that is not a lathe. Same at the Ace, across the street at Harbor Freight however... They had both electric and manual pipe threading tools/dies available. Running my whole house tonight after manually (anger grinder) cutting and threading pipe (A pipe wrench to hold the work while threading [broke the vice, oops] with the manual die set is not easy, lol) yesterday. First time home owners life :)
Every time I need to do something new for a build you already have a detailed video on it. Thanks for the info!
I try to keep new content flowing. Got to keep the videos coming. You know how that is too I’m sure!
Never expected Drew here. Your tiny house videos are great.
Thank you for this informative video. I had a gas leak in my house. My wife called me at work saying that she smelled gas. Using soapy water & a leak detector, I found the leak. I shut off the gas & replaced some black iron fittings, pipes & valves. After I was done, I had a licensed plumber inspect my work. After the green light with no leaks, all is good now. Thanks again. GOD bless you! "Let the thief no longer steal, but rather let him labor, doing honest work with his own hands, so that he may have something to share with anyone in need. ' Ephesions 4:28
Really
Not a godly man but agree about letting the thief steal no more! 👍
Great Job on your Video!! You Are So Talented And able to explain why and what you doing !
You know how to do it and you're good and getting it done, then you generously and seamlessly share with us. You've got a knack for instruction, Thank for sharing.
I understand you never want to be called out for a repair but I much prefer pipe dope and I've been fitting pipe for 40+ years. Don't even use tape. I like the fact you did the pressure test before securing everything, a practice everybody should get in the habit of doing. I pressure test all pipes. Thanks for your videos, learned a lot about painting as I hate that task.
Isn't tape a thread lubricant so that you can get the fitting tighter before the metal bites?
3 gen fitter in the petroleum world I was taught to use both.
I spoke to an old timer who was in the plumbing business in the 70s and he said all plumbers used was pipe dope, before Teflon tape was available for purchase.
@@victorr5276depends on pipe size and pressure
I like to apply a very thin even coat to the threads inside the fitting as well. I was fitting some 2 inch air line once and it leaked with just dope applied to the pipe, so took back apart, doped inside of fitting as well and it didn't leak upon reassembly.
In the future when applying tape, you should always apply the tape one or two threads from the end of pipe, to prevent the tape from peeling off on the inside and clogging a gas orifice.
You should never use Teflon tape with gas. I don't care if it's approved for it.
Only need pipe dope in them. No need for tape. Pipe dope has teflon in it for lubrication.
1. Pipe dope is to keep the threads from balling up when tightening.
2. Pipe dope is also used so that one can take it apart in the future.
3. It's the metal to metal contact that is supposed to seal the joint....NOT Teflon tape.
4. Teflon is used by rookies who can't make a good thread on their pipe (threading) machine.
@@user-if3mk1ht7o let me guess😂
@@readmore3634 Assuming that the pipe threader was carefully and properly lubricated - How many threads should you make before you have to replace your pipe threading dies do you recommend?
I like that your videos don't have unnecessary commenting and you're not talking with music playing (most annoying for we people with some hearing loss).
very well put together video, time spent on explaining and working with no extra white noise makes it very educational. No drip leg on your verticle runs before final union, I would highly recomend having drip legs. Not code in all areas yet but a good practice otherwise.
drip leg is for 'wet' gas. sediment trap isn't needed on a stove as they are manually turned on and off.
I was also wondering why the drip legs were missing , good practice to protect your appliances from unwanted moisture which can contribute to operating issues or component pre- mature failure.
One of My favorites: Pipe fitting. I pretty much do design/ build on most all of my work and although I primarily do existing and not new construction, I *always* use soapy water to test the lines, the second you don't - you will have a liability issue. I *really* like your home made manometer and will make one up one of these days!
My most recent pipe fitting was with a meter that was not ideally placed and way undersized. The owner wanted to feed 2 furnaces (the one for upstairs was 80k btu; downstairs was 60k Btu - yep, those peeps installed backwards.. 🙄 The meter was near the furnaces. The 60k btu furnace was 2nd in tandem line from the meter & had a branch going to a 45k btu fireplace. 90 degree turn to feed a gas stove - and then a190k btu Navien combi DHW heater! The owner wanted to minimize pipe runs, which was not going to happen as the sum total was also in excess of the meters capability, So we had to have the utility provider replace and adjust the pressure to the correct water column before going live with this service.
Also important when designing a gas service, one really should run supply to the highest BTU appliance first -- especially with an on-demand Domestic Hot Water heater is present as they are typically the highest consumer in line. If otherwise, you will quite likely choke the operation when driving a 40` F inbound ambient water temp up to 120` F with that kind of demand for fuel. Not to mention *and most important here* is that is per manufacturer recommendation, which in turn is what your local code officials use for inspection. Speaking of demand, your install was a basic new build design that did not require much consideration with only two appliances. In my world of "old work" we must perform calculations for the BTU Load along with length of run and number of turns to ensure proper piping sizes.
Also, in my jurisdiction, we are required to install "Drip-T" fitting under the last vertical branch/ leg (in place of the elbows you used under the appliance) where a "T" fitting and a 3" minimum leg into a cap is installed to catch any sediment that may enter into the fuel lines to prevent potential issues with the orifices' and or burners of the appliance being clogged with debris. At the appliance side for mechanicals, such as a hot water tank, furnace or DHW unit, I always use a union for later serviceability/ when it comes time to remove/ replace that mechanical, which is not applicable for fireplaces or stoves as shown in your install. Finally, here a valve at the appliance is also required, again not applicable to your install, yet certainly noteworthy.
At the end of the day I prefer black pipe and typically minimize/ limit flex pipe runs:
Solid Black Pipe will have a lot less drag on the flow where I've seen corrugate pipe fail to deliver sufficient fuel to the higher volume DHW appliances due to the number of turns (similar with black pipe the number of elbows will produce drag on the fuel flow all of which needs to be accounted for, especially on longer runs and/ or with higher btu appliances... Corrugated flexible pipe is convenient to use, but a lot more expensive where the fittings can really add up quickly as well. Corrugated flex pipe has special through-wall or through-floor fittings which should be used there when passing through a substrate. One *really* should be certified to install that brand of corrugated gas pipe by that manufacturer where most supply houses also require that certification for purchase. The bonding for corrugated piping is also a completely different animal all together which can and does vary between different types of corrugated pipe. Black pipe being rigid also offers a lot greater protection of the line from any damage, is easier to bond and has better flow. When buying black pipe it is often times rather pricey when buying the pre-cut/ pre-threaded pipe compared to a 10 foot lengths which can be cut & threaded at most stores. The issue can be not having the correct lengths in the field, especially if you do not have a pipe cutter and threading machine.
Another newer item is whole house surge protection. The way bonding is set up and installed in a new build has changed quite a bit with the advance of pex pipe and national codes have driven these changes into our reality from the old ways. So if you do not have the current knowledge and practical advanced skills,, it is simply best to leave this job to a professional.
Awesome video - as always!
Best regards,
Ck Maintenance, Schenectady, NY
I think getting certified in csst is a good idea too. Seems like the joints are much more confusing than other gas line options. I always buy the precut 10’ sections because of the ease of availability at big box stores. I love how detailed your comments are. I feel like I learn something from each one of your comments and I appreciate that! I want this community to be a place we all can share ideas and knowledge. I hope all is well with you! Thanks for the comment and watching Ck Maintenance!
@@TheExcellentLaborer There is no substitute for experience and that my friend is value added. 😎
I have experience in copper, CSST, BMP, and polyethylene .... BMP has it's place, but, it is no longer the standard. Certification, sure, why not, it can't hurt. Old school is new school, longest length method or branch theory, as long as it's done right. It MUST always be inspected by local code authority to protect yourself. In my neck of the woods, if CSST is connected to an appliance that is plugged into the wall with three prongs [grounded], the line itself is NOT required to be bonded, as the plug is already bonded. Except mostly for penetrations and certain circumstances, BMP is a thing of the past. Very unforgiving, lasts much less longer, very costly in labor, and is time consuming. You can do three houses in CSST in the time it takes to do one in BMP. Very unprofitable.
@Buck Rogers I've had people say that to me before but I'm in a different industry. Why do you run a ground wire if the equipment has a 3 prong power cable ? I just do what the manufacturer recommends.
@@Jimbo234GW Local authorities are not authorities anymore...they're always asking me (35yrs master, foreman plumber) What's that pipe for? Is that a vent? What's a wet vent? Loop vent?...
I don't do permitted work anymore unless it's a complete house...inspectors are a pain in the a$$.
I can cut and install 3 houses a day in BMP, not easy to drive a nail through it either...It's a bit of an art to design an easy system to install....and then pre-fab the whole (tract) job, back when I did tract work....not anymore. I have my own pipe machine...very profitable.
I use CSST mostly for island sink/ranges and if a distance gas line is needed in an existing house. Custom houses and remodel is much quieter, less stressful and my customers appreciate good work.
i'm not a plumber ,but have used black pipe several time's ,i always make sure inside of pipes are clean
This guy is amazing hes the only teacher i watch. Perfect brother
Agreed ! he’s one of us!
Another epic project explained so well too … great great great
Thanks so much!
Sir! That was straight forward and to the point. My patience was not at all Tried with unnecessary jibber-jabber. Well done!
INCREDIBLE job man! Hope your week is going to be a great one and SUPER job again on the vid. It's already been an EXCELLENT year for you and your channel. Thanks Josh.
I appreciate that Thor! I try to get work done and film at same time so it can be challenging but it works! I hope your projects are going great. Have an awesome day!
Always good to see using the tape and sealant. Have always found it much easier to work with. I have also put in a tee with a 4" nipple and capped just in case a certain job may want to add an additional gas item but I have added an additional valve so I wouldn't have to shut the gas off and of course making sure a piece of pipe and cap is added (As Long as code allows). I like the pressure test cap you have. I'm going to change the way mine is set up. So good to see the pipe bonded as well. So many times I would never see it done and it is code in our area. As always fantastic job Josh.
Yes! It is definitely wise to add an extra tee in case you want to add something in the future. I was going to do that but I cannot think of any thing else I would ever want to add later. I do like using the tape and sealant for extra security. Most people think that is overkill but I think why not. Bonding is something I also find important. It is code here to do that anyways. I hope all of your projects are going well and you are doing good. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting David!
@@TheExcellentLaborer that extra security costs so little but does protect the project just like pressure testing is so, so important. I've done tests on things and found leaks on an area I didn't do in a remodel. That can be a challenge if you have a long run not being able to back thread the pipe. I too love using black pipe and of course gloves. 👍🏻
Be safe.
@The Excellent Laborer If your adding gas to the house why not add a gas water heater and dryer to make the the whole house more efficient?
Fuck code
On a positive note Josh, I'm glad I watched this video! Why? Because adding gas-pipe-goop
-after having applied gas-thread-tape- further insures that every minute gap is sealed! Nice!👍
Thanks Robert. I do like the double protection. They did not mention the ground rod instead of the panel bonding but I’d say it would work too. Thanks for your input!
Hooray for good lighting, sound and a steady camera!
I always enter the structure with 1” black pipe and make sure there is a union plus where you have your run for your stove I would have made a manifold with individual shut offs and nipples with caps for future supplies … Dryer, Hot water heater, Furnace, Grill…. Good run glad to see you use pipe dope … the state I live in it’s code to have a shut off at the gas fireplace along with the chase being fire proof
Great comment Fred. I have an old house with half inch (maybe 3/4) pipe coming out of the ground going up about 8-10 inches then 90 deg elbow and nipple/pipe that goes into exterior brick and into the house. I want to plumb NG for my generator which would be right there anyway (outlet for generator is right there nearby). I am thinking I need a T fitting there on the pipe coming out of the ground to supply generator. I believe that means cutting out that section of pipe coming out of the ground and using a union along with the T fitting to accomplish this. Meter is about 26 feet away. Thoughts on that approach? Thanks.
@@condor5635
Yes a Tee is what you need to start your exterior run, after your piping is finished I would recommend that you paint your exterior piping with rustoleum paint .. it is code here that exterior black pipe must be painted black.. I hope this helps you and be safe with NG and always check for leaks when done installing…
Your videos are awesome, and your presentation style and methods are top notch! Keep up the great work!
Nice video. I watched your video and several other people's videos for entertainment. My conclusion, several people don't know what the hell they are doing. However, your video was one of the best relaring to natural gas pipe inatalation
This was for propane
In some places the code/utility companies discourage or prohibit ground wires connecting to gas lines, due to the fact that sparks are able to ignite the gas. They recommend using a dedicated grounding rod to attach ground wires to.
Great job.
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
You're pretty good. I did not quite get the temporary fitting for the pressure test, so I will have to see it again. Tape and compound is always best when you want a sure seal. I myself like to gently fill in the female treads, and if need be, scrape any extra rise with a blade, and I liked that idea of one of your commenters who suggested to stop the tape a few threads away from the end. I am in the same thing now with an uninhabitable house. Demo/build, reassignment of rooms, etc. You just gotta love a good headache, backache, and getting tired and dirty to really get into it, and then deal with all the trouble it involves. I gotta see more of your videos.
Only need pipe dope. Tape is not needed.
@@spydergs07 correct...although tape does have it's place in plumbing. I've ran miles and miles of gas pipe in tract homes.....miles and miles...no tape needed with good threads and malleable pipe.
I prefer unions over couplings to make things easier to remove if you do have a leaky fitting and if the elbow doesn't point the right way, you can easily rotate the pipe.
I read unions are good for 1 time then they need to have pipe dope on the surfaces. I did pressure test with unions and they leaked the second time I tightened them.
Unions are leaky, and they are more work to install and pressure test. But they in turn are less work when it is time to troubleshoot or retrofit.
Nicely done. Thank you for providing the information. Funny how I see people making comments about “thats not the way.” In my opinion, those are the people who consider themselves “professional” and hate the You Tube channel because it educates people on how to do it themselves vs. paying a “professional” thousands of dollars to do the job. Again, thank you for the information.
Thank you very much for your videos many of your videos are the best and best videos l have seen my English is not very good but through your explanations and introductions l really understand a lot l am from china and l see that many of your videos are building a new house l may understand half of what you said but l really really really like your video thank you for your hard work
Hi Chinese I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
地球不是圓的，你曉得了嗎
Im here to learn how to reroute a gas line thats in my way. Thanks!
I always thought bad about gas lines I was so afraid , now after this vid I find out is super easy just like water plumbing , last year I learned electrical work bc of you ,now gas gas plumbing , thanks alot Mr laborer keep up the hard word work made easy
fr fr, he gives me so much confidence to take on big projects
Thanks, going to do this with my 3/4 RV piping...great editing !
You are very thorough and it surprised me that you didn't use flanges on the end of the tube run.
Good video and I like your attitude. It is there for a lifetime.
A little-known fact about pipe joint compound is that it does not only lubricate the threads but it also fills the spiral leakage path of NPT threads. The thread specification calls for the crests and troughs of NPT threads to be truncated or flattened, not coming to a sharp point, and that allows a spiral leakage path which pipe joint compound fills. There is another thread specification called "dryseal" or NPTF (National Pipe Taper Fuel) which has sharp crests and troughs and theoretically can seal without pipe joint compound, but the compound is often used anyway, for lubrication and to seal any imperfection that might exist.
Good info.
4 years of US Plumbers Union apprenticeship and never heard that. The metal to metal contact is supposed to make the seal...(in a perfect world)...everything else is to help make the joint up and be able to take it apart in the future. It's like a cork (tapered threads) that can't blow out.
Good review and from start to finish! Thank you!
Thank you so much for your feedback. It means a lot!
thank you for the content. Very easy to comprehend. Sounds like a Southern Missouri accent.
scott I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
Hey Josh, thank you for sharing this buddy, I've built a few things out of that black pipe😄but have never run it as gas line, so I learned how this morning and I didn't know about the different colors of thread tape so I guess I've learned a couple things today.😁Have a Blessed day my friend!!! Jay.
Typically yellow thread tape is for gas, white is for air and water, and blue monster is for all. I’m glad you found some value in this video. Black pipe is definitely a universal supply that can be used for many things. I hope everything is going good for you. Thanks for watching Jay!
There is also a green tape, used for oxygen in hospitals, etc. It’s thicker and does a better job with tapered thread……Jim
@@TheExcellentLaborer how do tell if i have a 2psi system or low pressure system in home?
Can you pressure test right after you are done? Or sealant needs to set?
Good video. Thanks for info on Lowes cutting the black iron pipe.
I just watched your TH-cam, where pressure test a gas line at 100psi .
Pressure testing gas line is very specifically spelled out in code books . Usually low pressure gas lines in a building are measured by inches of water gage , (wg) . There are 27.6 wg per 1 pound of pressure .
The code reads, 1 1/2 test pressure of in line , gas pressure is required . Propane is normally 11 to 12 wg running pressure . Not even half a pound . So 1 1/2 times running pressure is quite low . If you test at 6 psi for a 24 hour period, your good . Too much pressure will blow your sealant out of joints weakening the overall system .
Keep in mind if the temperature is cold when test pressure is applied , and it goes up to 90o , your pressure gage will be higher , say 7psi or so .
Would 100psi testing adversely affect the utility gas meter?
@@jeepsaroundThe gas meter should not be seeing that pressure. There should be a valve to isolate the new pipe from the old system, then just check that one (or few) connections with a leak check solution. I have seen leaks in the side of cheap Chinese elbows(not the threaded joint) so always check the entire length, not just the joint.
Thank You Josh, this is gold.
Really great to see! I would like to see more gas pipe videos. And thank you for sharing. 👍
I learned a lot from this video. Thank you for making these videos.
Super video. Thanks a lot. You are a good professor
Never saw a video on this topic. Very interesting!
I noticed there wasn’t much out there so I decided to make one. Thanks for watching!
I watch a lot of your videos but don't know that your install is the best ideas. Not using drip legs and couplings over unions. If you need to change anything or repair a section down the road you will be stuck undoing a lot of pipe. Use a tee and plug versus a elbow might be good idea then if you need to add an appliance you pull the plug and start a new feed.
Hey Daniel! Thanks for watching the channel! Yes adding those things like be the best setup but I have no plans on adding additional appliances. Hope all is well with you!
Yea you may not but In the future you may not be around…..u should take your video down it’s sketchy not entertainment
You should only pressure test with 20 psig on black pipe and never 100 psig. NG is only a 7 inch system (approx. 0.25 psi) after meter or 2 psi after a 2 pound meter. Propane runs at around 11 or 12 inches (approx. 0.5 psi). Also, you should use unions so that if you ever had to take it apart to replace any pipe or add additional pipe/fittings for future expansion of additional appliances (i.e. tankless water heater, furnace, grill, etc.). You should also install drip legs/sediment traps before each appliance. Gas can contain contaminants (especially NG) and the sediment traps will remove debris before the regulators and appliances.
Amen 😅
National fuel gas code says house lines (lines after the meter) need tested at 3# for 10 minutes. You are correct on lp and ng pressures. Unions,, Who worries about the next guy. LOL
Great job. Well explained. Only thing missing was his permanent hangers in crawlspace. Figured he replaced the vinyl strap.
Thanks a lot Thomas. I appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching!
Excellent explanation on everything! Thank you so much 🙏
Awesome Video!! That helps a lot!
Back of the white thread sealant also says use on natural and lp gas as well as water
I'm hooking up my 10000 BTU propane ventless heater - to a 120 gal. propane tank. My cottage is only an 8x12 so if I add another room later this heater would do just fine. Thanks much.
what and where do you connect the ground in the box
I need to T of my ouside gasline to my shop. There is already a valve outside off the meter that was put in for a fire place in the house. I am removing the fireplace so i wanted to use that connection. I will be running black steel pipe under the deck and then down into my trench going across the lawn. My question is can i use black pipe for under the ground using an epoxy coating where the pipe is buried? If so what product would you recommend. The run will be about 40 ft long with about 25 ft underground. Appreciate the videos!
I want to add gas to my kitchen for a stove from existing home gas line. I have existing gas to both furnaces, water heater, my fire place and a gas grill on the backyard deck. I’ve been told to do it properly, they need to run all new pipe to meet code. My house is a little over 20 years old and the gas lines were installed when the house was built. Did the original builder not do it right, the repair people are pulling my leg, or have codes changed? Thanks.
Learned a thing or two. Thank you for making and sharing this video with us.
No problem! I appreciate you stopping by and watching my content. Take care!
Pipe threads are tapered. At some point, the limit of the taper is reached and the male and female threads seal together...
accurate video. thanx. im following this. always. just makes sence
thank you. This was great great great demonstration. thank you
CSST is where it's at man. I understand ya gotta do it to code but as for me in my own home doing my own csst all the way
Very helpful and detailed info
Thanks a lot
Keeping going bro
Can I Bond electrically anywhere where the black gas pipe is?
In other words do I have to start my bond where the gas meter enters the basement? Or can I bond it in the middle of the basement you know what I'm trying to ask?
Thank you for this video. We have old black iron gas pipe with a 90-degree joint that has a very faint gas leak smell if you put your nose right up to it. Is there anything (pipe dope?) that could be slathered on the outside of the joint to address this or is this a useless thing to try? Thanks!
Big help! Thank you sir
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Can you share the material list for your pressure testing set up or can you just buy one already set up?
good job where does the copper line get put on at the electrical box can you run that copper line outside to a ground rod?
do you have a video similar to the video for basic drain sizes for plumbing?.. I'm getting acclimated with gas fittings now, currently trying to figure out which parts to get to hook up an appliance and a I am struggling to understand the measurements for gas fittings, or know what sizes I currently have at home.
9:00 : a tee or cross tee with caps/plugs for the future is a plus. I used a 3/4 main pipe with 3/4 tee or cross tee and a reducer for the 1/2 pipe. do this on either or both ends.
It will work well. But if your point of entry in like 2 in 2 1/2 inch then definitely run a few on the end then more wraps where the thread meats the pipe to prevent leaks
Great video bro im new to plumbing and this was very informative. looking forward to more plumbing vids! 💪
Excellent Video. Thank you very much, I like the fact you used the tape and sealant at the same time. I have a question, I am switching from Propane to Natural gas. The gas company stated that have to run black pipe 3/4 inch directly to the water heater Rinnai 199 tankless which is about 60 to 70 feet from the outside meter. Then I have to stub off to the heating, fireplace and stove. I would imagine that they would all be half inch? I built homes for a living many years ago, but the gas company gave me a price I cannot afford, so I am thinking about pulling a permit and doing it myself. My question is since it is 70 feet away, do you think 3/4 inch is ok or should the first 30 feet be 1 inch and then go down to 3/4 to give it pressure? I am going to get other estimates but the price they gave was a shocker since many people in the neighborhood paid nothing. Robert from North Carolina
Could you tell me what it means by Gas Piping, each outlet
New Installation, each outlet on a permit mean? Thanks 👍
Nice work. Nicely detailed. But, next time your bonding the pipe in a joist bay, turn the bonding clamp 180 so it's easier to tighten the screws!
no drip legs required before appliances?
Drip legs are code around here
If my appliance is above the pipe run like you seen here, I don’t use drip legs. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer gotcha.,.it’s code in my state.
Why isn't the fittings black in color like the black Iron pipe? Will a magnet stick to an Iron pipe like some say it does to galvanized? Is the threading better on a black Iron pipe than a galvanized pipe?
Good job! Personally I would have added a minimum of 2 drip legs (12”) one for the range and other the fireplace. I would also have used a union instead of a coupling, purpose is for serviceability. I would have the shut-off inside the house instead of outside, the propane tank has it’s own. I would also have a fireplace shut-off valve in-line. How would you control the fireplace gas? Thanks….Jim
PS…….I live in the Midwest and have installed black iron and copper gas lines.
Hey Jim! I appreciate your input. I placed the shut off outside so I can turn off the system when changing the tanks. Yes drip legs would be best. I have never had an issue not having a drip leg so I didn’t add one. Thank you for watching!
Jim you are correct with the union and drip legs. If he ever gets natural gas then his piping would all be good. Natural gas can get dirt and debris in the lines especially when a pipe gets accidentally cut anywhere in the system. While fixing the broken line dirt will get into the line and go through the system. The drip legs can keep the dirt from hitting any regulators.
@@TheExcellentLaborer You need shut-off valves next to every appliance. The outside valve it nice to change tanks but does not meet the safety requirement should there be a leak. Gas is not something you want to cheat when it comes to safety.
Yes, appliance shut off valve within 6' and sediment trap downstream from valve as close to appliance as practical.
@@ewotha2 And not just code but appliance manufacturing specs in most installations.
4:40 pipe manufactures actually advise against using tape as it leads to over tightening into fittings which damages them and causes leaking.
Job well done 👍👍
How do you know if it’s tight enough? By the time you get all done and turn gas on you might have to take all apart just tighten one fitting?
do you need a regulator for this install and where would you put it
Quick question what is the purpose to put the copper wire on top of the gas line?
You didn't do any drops for debris at end of runs to stove and fireplace.
If you have black pipe running under your food truck straight from tanks without a regulator but use a regulator on each piece of equipment does this bring back the safety issues?
5:02 it's like two rubbers - just in case! 😂
Another helpful one
Is it necessary to go 5 times with the yellow tape, or you doing that as like a safety precaution?
Can you safely connect a brass shutoff valve to black pipe without any concerns of corrosion? Thanks
Very good video, thanks for sharing
Thank you Noah! I appreciate you watching!
Easy on the Teflon tape and dope! If you know how to thread you don’t need that much
why did you not add a drip leg during your instalation
Very nice video.
My local Home Depot sells malleable black iron fittings and black steel pipes and nipples. I read you shouldn't mix the two due to dissimilar metal corrosion. But why would Home Depot sell dissimilar items to use together? Can I mix these for natural gas installations?
How do I get my line certified in order for the gas company to install a meter without calling a plumber?
Just as good at making videos as running a gas line.
Hey there. New handyman about a year out and this video really helped me figure out an even simpler job regarding gas piping. Thank you so much. Just curious what City/state are you working in?
Hey Justin, I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. Link in my about tab.
@@flat-earther For 3 years i thought the earth was flat ,then I turned 4
Thank You 😊
Good job brother!
how did you got the measurement dead on.
Thanks
Laid it all out and dry fit it all then got the measurements to take to Home Depot to cut. Hope that helps!
Hey brother I love your content. Have a question to transition from 3/4 iron pipe to 1/2 inch copper pipe for LP gas. What fitting or shut off valve should I use from the iron pipe to the copper. Thank Ya
Where can we buy that 1 inch head for the pressure gauge?
Gas after second stage regulator goes into the water column. Like 2 lbs of pressure
Im looking at the white pipe sealant and it definitely says it works with gas. Not sure why he doesn't think so..?
Great video! I know u entertainment only but it is simpler than I thought with installing. Do u recommend getting license before a gas line installation?
LOL, our local Lowes did not cut pipe. Nor did they know of a tool to thread pipe that is not a lathe. Same at the Ace, across the street at Harbor Freight however... They had both electric and manual pipe threading tools/dies available. Running my whole house tonight after manually (anger grinder) cutting and threading pipe (A pipe wrench to hold the work while threading [broke the vice, oops] with the manual die set is not easy, lol) yesterday. First time home owners life :)