The squire suspension set up would definitely increase understeer in a FWD car. The old set up is better suited for your car. A squire set up works great on a front engine RWD car.
Exact F:R coil spring rates also depends on other factors such as F/R motion ratios, weight bias, sway bars, tire setup, etc But yeah the gist of it is increasing the relative spring rate on one end does seem to cause that end to lose grip sooner than the other. As I also found with my 04 AP2 which came stock with similar F:R spring rates and sway bars. Going to Ohlins which came with 10k F/8k R made it understeer way too much for me (on "square" tire setup even). Going to 10k F/10k R got me back to the balance I missed
Try a Cusco rear sway bar on the 7/7 setup before you go back to 6/10 Also get rid of that PRL intercooler, blocking air flow. Swap it for tube and fin style.
Totally agree with larger diameter rear sway bar, also have you contemplated using a wider front tire, ala Porche, but back assword cuz FWD. Alternatively you could try softer front shock and or springs. I realize everything cost $$$. Been there and done that.
I have no idea how spring rates translate to ride rates on the Integra's specific geometry, but given an assumed front-biased weight distribution, something approaching square spring rates is probably correct for "flat ride" and maximum mechanical grip from a ride motion standpoint. However, a flat ride setup on a nose-heavy car will require a beefy rear sway bar to restore the desired lateral weight transfer bias. That's why good-handling FWD cars tend to lift the inside rear wheel. Get the beefiest rear bar you can find and you should be good to go.
You always want a higher natural frequency in the rear than the front on a front wheel drive sporty car. At least 10% higher in the rear, if not 20-30%. E.g., if the front is 2 Hz, the rear should be 2.2-2.4Hz. That's typical for OEM spring rates on sporty FWD models, it's how Fords and RenaultSports get that nice pivoting feeling. 🙂 My preference is to do that spring rates and not with a huge rear swaybar (the OEs don't use a huge rear swaybar to do it). Since everyone says WRXs understeer, I had a huge rear swaybar and stock front swaybar on my GC8 WRX (with square spring rates 7kg/mm front and rear, it's strut front and rear, so I guess about the same motion ratio at both ends) -- the way it handled was spooky, lol. You want that pivoting feeling in a front wheel drive car, but the way the rear wanted to overtake the front with that setup was too much lol.
@@Zygrene May I suggest looking up or measuring the motion ratios, estimating the corner weights and calculating the natural frequency front and rear? You're looking for a natural frequency that is about 10-30% higher in the rear than the front. Whether that's by going softer in the front, stiffer in the rear or both, that does make the ride a bit hoppy but that's just how sporty front wheel drive cars are. 🙂
@TassieLorenzo you are right about the frequencies in general, but sway bars do not affect those frequencies (okay, they affect them a little during cornering, but that's beyond the scope of anyone to calculate without a supercomputer, as it likely changes dynamically with lateral load). Sway bars are only the icing on the cake you use to fine-tune handling balance after you have achieved the desired frequencies with main springs. In the case of any car with a massive front/rear weight imbalance (basically all FF cars), you need that big rear bar because so much more weight transfer is naturally happening up front and the rear springs are relatively soft even after the 10% higher ride rate boost (less weight means a faster ride rate even on identical springs). If you try to balance the car with main springs, you will end up with a rear end riding WAY faster than the front, and it's going to be pogoing all over the place. You cannot achieve balanced handling and flat ride on an FF car without either a big rear bar or reverse-staggered wheel/tire sizes. Many people choose to sacrifice flat ride because they don't know what it is, or they think that's only for comfort. They go slower. The exceptions are cars with full unlimited time-attack, F1, or Pikes Peak level aero, where managing aero loads trumps all other considerations.
@@roadfordays "it's going to be pogoing all over the place ... Many people choose to sacrifice flat ride because they don't know what it is, or they think that's only for comfort. They go slower. " I guess you're right but I love the Tiff Needell video where he tests the three Super Tourers, especially the Vauxhall Cavalier and he loves the Cavalier's hoppiness and eagerness to turn in and how the setup has made it "come alive". ¯\_(ツ)_/¯🙂 You reckon that arrangement on the Cavalier is "slower"? The video is called "1992 BTCC Comparison Test Top Gear".
Great job and thanks for sharing. It seemed to me watching that the setup changes did not yield an increase in overall grip and/or that braking instability was just really bad. If it were me, I'd go back on either front or rear springs to re-establish a better baseline and then go forward with bars. This setup didn't want to go fast in, which would make for a long day.
If you can get back on track before the next set of mods, it could be a worthwhile learning opportunity to play with damping and see how it affects car dynamics firsthand. You probably won't be able to solve all your qualms with the car, but I think you'll be surprised just how much you can tune motion control with compression and rebound tuning, as long as your spring rates are in the general ballpark and you have quality damping. Kind of making lemonade out of lemons with the less than ideal setup changes you're dealing with, haha. The square setup might actually make it even easier to feel out and understand.
add a thicker RSB you can retain your ride comfort for the rear while improving the rotation of your car. if you can get the karcepts I suggest that but the EIbach 25mm will significantly make a huge difference. without any draw backs for day to day living. you'll also find lesser wear on your front tires because you will not be asking too much out of it because car rotates beautifully. just a win win for roughly $200-500 depending on what brand you get that also translates to faster lap times
Thanks for the advice you gave at the end of the video. I’m also in the same boat and I’m currently looking for coilovers that can do street use and track driving without compromising either too much and for a decent price that isn’t 3k.
Get the RV6 chromoly 25mm rear sway bar and the whiteline anti lift kit. Also the Injen intercooler is high volume but less tall so it won't interfere, maybe get the koyorad too
It's clear you're dialing things in, some of this was clearly nerves and mild hesitation with entry speeds. Too many cars on track doesn't help either... But all things equal, agreed on a slightly stiffer rear spring rate and rear sway upgrade, although before you shell more cash would first try (as previously recommended) to set your Ohlins dampening in the rear almost to full stiff (1-2 clicks) then have front ones at maybe 2-4 clicks, in order to get rid of that mild understeer. Slightly higher tire pressure rear (mb 1-2psi) than front as well. I am running 7k front and 8k back R&T setup on a AWD mk6 R with 3 clicks front and 2 clicks back (upgraded/fatter rear sway) and its as close neutral as it will ever get. Keep working on it and don't get discouraged. Knowing and fixing the issue is progress even if your times don't always reflect the gains.
So I wanted to add my two cents even though I’m by no means a professional just played a lot with springs on the sim. There are two sides to this coin; A square setup is a good idea for FWD depending on weight distribution and I think you highlighted some of the problems in the video, u have the same alignment and dampening settings with a totally different spring and that just won’t do. With the rear being less likely to rotate. You need to make dampening and rebound changes in order to promote that rear rotation. As well as an alignment (I’d look at toe and rear camber) that help with that as well. On the other of the coin; going back to that 10K will definitely get you that rotation and then with things like rake and other dampening changes, u can stabilize it under breaking. I feel both routes are do able just more changes are needed in order to accompany the significant spring change. ESPECIALLY your dampening settings in reference to the 7K Square setup! Thats just my opinions and I’d love to discuss more with you to hear ur thoughts as maybe an 8.5K or something along those lines is what you need. (Idk if it’s possible to obtain a spring rate like that)
I’m thinking the front strut bar and the intercooler add a significant amount of weight to the front end of the car. Dealing with the same thing on my Si. Maybe getting an antigravity battery would help with better weight distribution in the front to reduce understeer
Unfortunately, you only have one way adjustment on the Ohlin R/T. I have MCS 2-way remotes on my 718 GT4. As a general rule, the stiffer the spring rate you go, the less compression you need, but the more rebound damping you need to handle that spring rate. With 1 ways, the compression and rebound clicks are married to each other, with the larger change coming from the rebound side. When you start playing with different delta's front to rear on spring rates, you really need a 2 -way damper to un-marry the compression from the rebound.
No one has really figured out the overheating thing, a lot of people trying different things and there is a great thread on the type R forums about it unfortunately its a lot of mods. Its kind of crazy to me coming from modern BMWs that can be out there all day no problem, I guess there is a reason why they weight 400lbs more than typeR/TypeS
7/10 might work well. 6/10 is too tail happy, 7/7 is too pushy, 7/10 might work well. On your 6/10 setup you needed a bigger front bar, on your 7/7 you need a bigger rear bar to handle more roll couple, so I'd try 7/10. Although adjustable bars are cheaper and easier and dont require re-alignment.
Looking for suggestions here. I can probably pull calculated oil temp from OBD2 into a smartphone app like Torque Pro, but sounds like a bit of a hassle to set up before every track session.
@@Zygrene Really your only option is to install an aftermarket oil temperature sensor. On the Civic forums there is a guy setting up his FL5 to eliminate all of the overheating issues. He installed a oil temp sensor so that he can get an accurate reading (LogR gives you an estimated temperature reading from coolant and IAT readings). I have a FL5 and am been following the thread closely and plan on doing the same to mine eventually. But the only way to monitor your temps is install your own gauges unfortunately, at least with the oil temp sensor it doesn't require any drilling and has a clean look. He also installed 2 oil coolers and an additional radiator. TH-cam keeps deleting my comment whenever I post the link to the post on the Civic forums so I cant link it lol
@Zygrene there are a small amount of owners who reported oil leaks from their valve covers and timing covers. Any oil leaks in your car so far or all bone dry problem free?
I'd assume since the fronts are struts the motion ration is about 1. The rears are not struts and will have a motion ratio above 1 so you would never want to go equal rates in a fwd car. The rear should be higher. You could band-aid it with a stiffer rear bar but you should go with stiffer rear springs. ultimately you may want a stiffer rear bar but you should start with stiffer springs
I'm not such a fan of that, as it only works mid-corner AFAIK? Whereas stiffer rear spring rates help with initial turn-in and corner exit too, doesn't it?
Sometimes its not the car nor the mods. Sometime you just have an off day or maybe you are just taking longer to adjust your driving style to account for the mods?
Who would have thought that mindlessly changing the design that the engineers worked hard for to make a balanced car, would negatively affect performance? 🧐
I had this thought...well, not exactly. The engineers were making a car for the street, and he clearly wants a track weapon as well, so making modifications makes a certain amount of sense. On the other hand, how he came to his decisions about what kinds of mods he made might be suspect. Or not, we don't know, he never really explains his thought process going into various mods (well, except the exhaust).
I’m thinking the front strut bar and the intercooler add a significant amount of weight to the front end of the car. Dealing with the same thing on my Si. Maybe getting an antigravity battery would help with better weight distribution in the front to reduce understeer
Also to add I recently added an RV6 rear sway bar set to max stiffness. It is a HUGE improvement with rotation I believe the same bar fits on the integra/type R
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
GT4, GT4, GT4RS, GT4, 911... monsters in that group
I think I spotted an AMG GT-R in there as well. Hell of a group!
VTEC vs the world, part 2
@Zygrene around 1:23 there are also a few E46 M3s and you said "looks like I'll be in traffic" after they pass, funny!
@@mrgizmo7975 I think he said he himself was going to be the traffic.
The squire suspension set up would definitely increase understeer in a FWD car. The old set up is better suited for your car. A squire set up works great on a front engine RWD car.
Yup. Already decided to put the rear 10k springs back on, plus a couple other handling changes.
Exact F:R coil spring rates also depends on other factors such as F/R motion ratios, weight bias, sway bars, tire setup, etc
But yeah the gist of it is increasing the relative spring rate on one end does seem to cause that end to lose grip sooner than the other.
As I also found with my 04 AP2 which came stock with similar F:R spring rates and sway bars. Going to Ohlins which came with 10k F/8k R made it understeer way too much for me (on "square" tire setup even).
Going to 10k F/10k R got me back to the balance I missed
I’m running 6kg front and 8kg rear on my ohlins on my CTR - nice balance
Try a Cusco rear sway bar on the 7/7 setup before you go back to 6/10
Also get rid of that PRL intercooler, blocking air flow. Swap it for tube and fin style.
Dude great job an analysis. The speeds you take T6 tells me a lot about your driving and the car. Badass!
Look into motion ratios. The divorced rear setup requires a bit more rate than the front for an even spring rate at the wheels.
Totally agree with larger diameter rear sway bar, also have you contemplated using a wider front tire, ala Porche, but back assword cuz FWD. Alternatively you could try softer front shock and or springs. I realize everything cost $$$. Been there and done that.
Good stuff thanks for sharing! Sometimes the old setup will work best. Only time will tell. I'm hoping you'll get that in for a true comparison.
I have no idea how spring rates translate to ride rates on the Integra's specific geometry, but given an assumed front-biased weight distribution, something approaching square spring rates is probably correct for "flat ride" and maximum mechanical grip from a ride motion standpoint. However, a flat ride setup on a nose-heavy car will require a beefy rear sway bar to restore the desired lateral weight transfer bias. That's why good-handling FWD cars tend to lift the inside rear wheel. Get the beefiest rear bar you can find and you should be good to go.
Going to try adjusting a few things before adding a RSB, but that's definitely next on my list if the adjustments don't work.
You always want a higher natural frequency in the rear than the front on a front wheel drive sporty car. At least 10% higher in the rear, if not 20-30%. E.g., if the front is 2 Hz, the rear should be 2.2-2.4Hz. That's typical for OEM spring rates on sporty FWD models, it's how Fords and RenaultSports get that nice pivoting feeling. 🙂
My preference is to do that spring rates and not with a huge rear swaybar (the OEs don't use a huge rear swaybar to do it). Since everyone says WRXs understeer, I had a huge rear swaybar and stock front swaybar on my GC8 WRX (with square spring rates 7kg/mm front and rear, it's strut front and rear, so I guess about the same motion ratio at both ends) -- the way it handled was spooky, lol. You want that pivoting feeling in a front wheel drive car, but the way the rear wanted to overtake the front with that setup was too much lol.
@@Zygrene May I suggest looking up or measuring the motion ratios, estimating the corner weights and calculating the natural frequency front and rear? You're looking for a natural frequency that is about 10-30% higher in the rear than the front. Whether that's by going softer in the front, stiffer in the rear or both, that does make the ride a bit hoppy but that's just how sporty front wheel drive cars are. 🙂
@TassieLorenzo you are right about the frequencies in general, but sway bars do not affect those frequencies (okay, they affect them a little during cornering, but that's beyond the scope of anyone to calculate without a supercomputer, as it likely changes dynamically with lateral load). Sway bars are only the icing on the cake you use to fine-tune handling balance after you have achieved the desired frequencies with main springs. In the case of any car with a massive front/rear weight imbalance (basically all FF cars), you need that big rear bar because so much more weight transfer is naturally happening up front and the rear springs are relatively soft even after the 10% higher ride rate boost (less weight means a faster ride rate even on identical springs). If you try to balance the car with main springs, you will end up with a rear end riding WAY faster than the front, and it's going to be pogoing all over the place. You cannot achieve balanced handling and flat ride on an FF car without either a big rear bar or reverse-staggered wheel/tire sizes. Many people choose to sacrifice flat ride because they don't know what it is, or they think that's only for comfort. They go slower. The exceptions are cars with full unlimited time-attack, F1, or Pikes Peak level aero, where managing aero loads trumps all other considerations.
@@roadfordays "it's going to be pogoing all over the place ... Many people choose to sacrifice flat ride because they don't know what it is, or they think that's only for comfort. They go slower. " I guess you're right but I love the Tiff Needell video where he tests the three Super Tourers, especially the Vauxhall Cavalier and he loves the Cavalier's hoppiness and eagerness to turn in and how the setup has made it "come alive". ¯\_(ツ)_/¯🙂 You reckon that arrangement on the Cavalier is "slower"? The video is called "1992 BTCC Comparison Test Top Gear".
Heat and rapid rising water temp were definitely the reasons I went from forced induction track toy, to N/A ones. Good luck!
Great job and thanks for sharing. It seemed to me watching that the setup changes did not yield an increase in overall grip and/or that braking instability was just really bad. If it were me, I'd go back on either front or rear springs to re-establish a better baseline and then go forward with bars. This setup didn't want to go fast in, which would make for a long day.
If you can get back on track before the next set of mods, it could be a worthwhile learning opportunity to play with damping and see how it affects car dynamics firsthand. You probably won't be able to solve all your qualms with the car, but I think you'll be surprised just how much you can tune motion control with compression and rebound tuning, as long as your spring rates are in the general ballpark and you have quality damping.
Kind of making lemonade out of lemons with the less than ideal setup changes you're dealing with, haha. The square setup might actually make it even easier to feel out and understand.
Holy shit. I’ve never seen too many cars at a track day. That looked busy as hell in the beginning
add a thicker RSB you can retain your ride comfort for the rear while improving the rotation of your car. if you can get the karcepts I suggest that but the EIbach 25mm will significantly make a huge difference. without any draw backs for day to day living. you'll also find lesser wear on your front tires because you will not be asking too much out of it because car rotates beautifully. just a win win for roughly $200-500 depending on what brand you get that also translates to faster lap times
Thanks for the advice you gave at the end of the video. I’m also in the same boat and I’m currently looking for coilovers that can do street use and track driving without compromising either too much and for a decent price that isn’t 3k.
Good color and mods, liking this build!
Get the RV6 chromoly 25mm rear sway bar and the whiteline anti lift kit. Also the Injen intercooler is high volume but less tall so it won't interfere, maybe get the koyorad too
It's clear you're dialing things in, some of this was clearly nerves and mild hesitation with entry speeds. Too many cars on track doesn't help either... But all things equal, agreed on a slightly stiffer rear spring rate and rear sway upgrade, although before you shell more cash would first try (as previously recommended) to set your Ohlins dampening in the rear almost to full stiff (1-2 clicks) then have front ones at maybe 2-4 clicks, in order to get rid of that mild understeer. Slightly higher tire pressure rear (mb 1-2psi) than front as well. I am running 7k front and 8k back R&T setup on a AWD mk6 R with 3 clicks front and 2 clicks back (upgraded/fatter rear sway) and its as close neutral as it will ever get. Keep working on it and don't get discouraged. Knowing and fixing the issue is progress even if your times don't always reflect the gains.
Go full stiff in the rear, full soft to mid soft in the front, and add 10psi to the rear tires. That should solve your understeer problem
Try left foot braking in sector one, and the long downhill left after the corkscrew. It'll help keep load on the front wheels.
The PRL intercooler is likely adding tot he overheating issue.
Add some rake and soften the dampers in the rear to keep the car from snap oversteering.
You're square setup will fly.
Would be interested to hear more about why/how you came to the decision to make the mods you did.
Great video!
So I wanted to add my two cents even though I’m by no means a professional just played a lot with springs on the sim. There are two sides to this coin; A square setup is a good idea for FWD depending on weight distribution and I think you highlighted some of the problems in the video, u have the same alignment and dampening settings with a totally different spring and that just won’t do. With the rear being less likely to rotate. You need to make dampening and rebound changes in order to promote that rear rotation. As well as an alignment (I’d look at toe and rear camber) that help with that as well. On the other of the coin; going back to that 10K will definitely get you that rotation and then with things like rake and other dampening changes, u can stabilize it under breaking. I feel both routes are do able just more changes are needed in order to accompany the significant spring change. ESPECIALLY your dampening settings in reference to the 7K Square setup! Thats just my opinions and I’d love to discuss more with you to hear ur thoughts as maybe an 8.5K or something along those lines is what you need. (Idk if it’s possible to obtain a spring rate like that)
Thanks for the insight. I'm putting my 10k rear springs back on, plus making changes to alignment and ride height before my next track day.
@@Zygrene Nice, that should do it!
Good job for trying learning process
You pretty much made the car public safe by going square . Go back to 6 at the front with adjustable sway bars and fine tune with damping and camber
Great build! What’s that providing feedback as you drive regards to braking? That’s pretty cool!
I’m thinking the front strut bar and the intercooler add a significant amount of weight to the front end of the car. Dealing with the same thing on my Si. Maybe getting an antigravity battery would help with better weight distribution in the front to reduce understeer
Unfortunately, you only have one way adjustment on the Ohlin R/T. I have MCS 2-way remotes on my 718 GT4. As a general rule, the stiffer the spring rate you go, the less compression you need, but the more rebound damping you need to handle that spring rate.
With 1 ways, the compression and rebound clicks are married to each other, with the larger change coming from the rebound side.
When you start playing with different delta's front to rear on spring rates, you really need a 2 -way damper to un-marry the compression from the rebound.
Nice video
No one has really figured out the overheating thing, a lot of people trying different things and there is a great thread on the type R forums about it unfortunately its a lot of mods. Its kind of crazy to me coming from modern BMWs that can be out there all day no problem, I guess there is a reason why they weight 400lbs more than typeR/TypeS
7/10 might work well. 6/10 is too tail happy, 7/7 is too pushy, 7/10 might work well. On your 6/10 setup you needed a bigger front bar, on your 7/7 you need a bigger rear bar to handle more roll couple, so I'd try 7/10. Although adjustable bars are cheaper and easier and dont require re-alignment.
We think alike. In the next 48 hours I'll have 7/10 installed.
I think the next mod should be something that you can use to monitor all your temp gauges. If it exists.
Looking for suggestions here. I can probably pull calculated oil temp from OBD2 into a smartphone app like Torque Pro, but sounds like a bit of a hassle to set up before every track session.
@@Zygrene Really your only option is to install an aftermarket oil temperature sensor. On the Civic forums there is a guy setting up his FL5 to eliminate all of the overheating issues. He installed a oil temp sensor so that he can get an accurate reading (LogR gives you an estimated temperature reading from coolant and IAT readings).
I have a FL5 and am been following the thread closely and plan on doing the same to mine eventually. But the only way to monitor your temps is install your own gauges unfortunately, at least with the oil temp sensor it doesn't require any drilling and has a clean look. He also installed 2 oil coolers and an additional radiator.
TH-cam keeps deleting my comment whenever I post the link to the post on the Civic forums so I cant link it lol
@Zygrene there are a small amount of owners who reported oil leaks from their valve covers and timing covers. Any oil leaks in your car so far or all bone dry problem free?
So far my engine bay is dry but I'll keep a closer eye on it, thanks for the heads up
I'd assume since the fronts are struts the motion ration is about 1. The rears are not struts and will have a motion ratio above 1 so you would never want to go equal rates in a fwd car. The rear should be higher. You could band-aid it with a stiffer rear bar but you should go with stiffer rear springs. ultimately you may want a stiffer rear bar but you should start with stiffer springs
Did you remove the rain shield under the hood vent?
Nope. Something to try next time.
You could try 7k front and 8k rear
I don't think I've ever been this early to a video 😅
Do you ever miss FR cars or are you happy with the FF? Coming from an FR owner thinking about going into FF LOL
Next mod, fat fat fat rear sway bar. lol
Yeah that's on my radar but I'm going to try a few other things first, before adding more parts.
@@Zygrene 100psi rear tires will do it! kidding. Looking forward to what happens next.
I'm not such a fan of that, as it only works mid-corner AFAIK? Whereas stiffer rear spring rates help with initial turn-in and corner exit too, doesn't it?
Rear sway bar really wont do that much, its not a common mod for CTR owners to do
great video and track run! where can I purchase the Cusco front strut tower bar? Thank you😁
Just curious….. do you have track insurance when you do track days?
this was very informative..What intercooler will be best for tracking?
RIP those two front tires💀💀
If only adjustable rate springs were a thing.
Sometimes its not the car nor the mods. Sometime you just have an off day or maybe you are just taking longer to adjust your driving style to account for the mods?
Nice
How are those seats on track? That would be my only hesitation to go DE5 over FL5.
7K front 9K rear? Or do you think front is now to stiff?
Curious why did you add a front strut tower brace? That probably contributes to understeer
Great driving regardless… I’m surprised that car didn’t overhead sooner… that motor will never survive 108 degrees… you might as well not go
I already went. My car was not happy LOL
Driver mod upgrade would likely do wonders for your lap times
Have you adjusted camber at all?
I've been running -3.1 front, -2.3 rear for the last few track days. But I'm going to adjust that before the next event.
"This is pretty chaotic" says the man who has clearly never done a Lemons race. haha.
still don’t understand why you bought this car, ugh. Can’t wait for you to be back in a BMW
I hope you're not using auto rev match
Who would have thought that mindlessly changing the design that the engineers worked hard for to make a balanced car, would negatively affect performance? 🧐
I had this thought...well, not exactly. The engineers were making a car for the street, and he clearly wants a track weapon as well, so making modifications makes a certain amount of sense. On the other hand, how he came to his decisions about what kinds of mods he made might be suspect. Or not, we don't know, he never really explains his thought process going into various mods (well, except the exhaust).
"modifying " reminds me of the phase BOAT {bust out another thousand}. why not just buy a mustang GT {2018-2023}?
Because you'd be back at square 1, a stock GT needs mods to make it track worthy
@@rjhick1 oh , "well i guess so" theodore cleaver
FWD 🗑
Your existence 🗑
Ok there Mike foster. Wonder how the type R has won so many accolades over the years including performance car of the year over majority RWD cars lol
@@UmarTheGreat10my fwd will destroy his car. I built it just for that very purpose.
@@UmarTheGreat10 you named yourself terrorist the great 👍
@TheBb6prelude no prelude would ever touch my car you still stuck in grand Turismo days grow up. Stick to working out not cars
I’m thinking the front strut bar and the intercooler add a significant amount of weight to the front end of the car. Dealing with the same thing on my Si. Maybe getting an antigravity battery would help with better weight distribution in the front to reduce understeer
Also to add I recently added an RV6 rear sway bar set to max stiffness. It is a HUGE improvement with rotation I believe the same bar fits on the integra/type R