HOW TO: Resume a failed 3D print!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2024
- It can be horribly frustrating if a 3D print that has already been going on for hours or even days fails and the printhead only moves in mid-air without printing anything. In this video, I’ll show you how you can easily resume one of these failed prints and save you a lot of time and money! Let’s find out more!
NOTE: This video covers the approach that works very well with GCode from PrusaSlicer and relative extrusions. If you're using CURA and notice that your slicer spits out absolute extrusion amounts (M82) then check the website article. The process of editing your G-code file might be slightly different!
Website article: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/guide...
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Chapters
00:00 Introduction
02:03 Fallback Solution - Reprint missing parts
02:25 Preparation
02:40 Measure the failure height
05:55 Determining the resume height
06:33 Modifying the G-Code file
08:33 Resume the print
09:07 Resume without homing Z
#3Dprinting #howTo #failedPrint - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Lmao I love the “word is not a text editor”
People sometimes have weird ideas...
Though you can use Word as a text editor. It does serve that function.
Well it isn't, it's a word processor.
@@bgm-1961 Even Notepad will mess up gcode. Notepad++ is the way to go for windoze.
I just use notepad++ or even better Sublime.
0:02 i think even people who don't speak german can understand perfectly what you said
True
One of the two German words I do know.
@@_sticks_ Just out of curiosity... What's the second word? :D
@@TheMightyZwom NEIN NEIN NEIN!!!!
@@TheMightyZwom You mean "Scheiße?"
Translation would be "Shit"
I've kept hold of several large-ish failed prints, now having seen this, I think I can save some of them, and I no longer fear the dreaded air printing.
Super useful vid Stefan, thank you so much.
Once you've taken the piece off the bed, how will you re-position it on the bed and make sure it lines up in order to finish it? Maybe I missed something in the video. I plan to watch it again.
@@dangerous8333 It was Stefan's first tip, if you can workout when it failed and then 'sink' the model in a Slicer, then simply print the remainder and glue together. It's almost obvious but the thought never even crossed my mind, sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees!
Dan was correct though, Stefan ALSO said it was VERY important NOT to move the print in the X/Y axis, like with a removable build surface, as there is no way to line those back up, even if you get the Z height calculated.
@@brandonwatts5435 he isn't taking about finishing the print with the failed part on the bed, but to print the failed section on the bed and glue it to the existing model.
@@dangerous8333 I think in a possible way: restart the same failed print with the same gcode, and print two or thee layers. Stop the printing. Use a sharpie to mark the position in the bed. Remove the two or three layers. Place the failed print in the marked position. Do the Stephan's procedure then.
I knew I would need this one day. Thanks a ton, man! You saved my 22 hour print.
I'm alwaya asking myself why It was never included to the fismware some function to "rewind" gcode until you can visually see it touching the print. It would be super handy.
I second your thoughts 💭.. must be some considerations stopping developing such an idea. Odd indeed.. “like why can’t the print head just ‘find’” the model using the pinda sensor, after a failure like this.. and resume code..
@@BenjaminRayner which kind of sensor is it? Because if it is a "bl touch" like sensor it needs to test lot of points to be sure not to be in an hole of the infill. Also the clog could not give a super clean end, it might be some under extrusion or some highspot. With rewind you could slowly dig the highspot and arrive almost exactly (almost) to the point the extrusion started to be inconsistent. For narrow prints shoudn't make so much difference but for wide ones printer could have already print quite a bit of the layer before the filament end or the clog
If you delete "everything up to the G28", make sure there isn't a G29 somewhere before that, as bed probing pretty much certainly crashes into your unfinished print...
saw your comment too late :)
ahh i shouldve read this comment before hitting go
On that note, G28 automatically triggers mesh bed leveling on Prusa printers equipped with it, so if you use a Prusa printer with bed leveling replace G28 with G28 W (tested on i3 Mk2S)
@@clancywiggum3198 if you see this what would be the course of action to not get it to level on a Ender 3 pro with a Cr touch because I can’t figure that out
@@calebdipaolo Note - use this at your own risk, I don't have an Ender 3 to test this on, but a quick search suggests that G28 does not trigger mesh bed leveling on BLTouch equipped E3s, instead using the separate G29 code after homing. (See first comment in this thread as well)
Resuming a failed 3D print - worth the hassle or just dump and re-print it?
*NOTE: This video covers the approach that works very well with GCode from PrusaSlicer and relative extrusions. If you're using CURA and notice that your slicer spits out absolute extrusion amounts (M82) then check the website article. The process of editing your G-code file might be slightly different!*
www.cnckitchen.com/blog/guide-resuming-a-failed-3d-print
It could depend on the print, but mostly I think armed with this knowledge it does not become a hassle, more like a slight inconvenience, so totally worth it.
@@Billybobble1 yes, also you could not have enough filament to reprint the whole thing
I've used all 3 of these methods before. They all work, but I've found you need to print the first restart layer hotter to make sure it bonds well.
Reprinting is definitely more of a hassle with how large some of these prints are
If it’s an Etsy order I dump and reprint… personal project… maybe
The only thing i would like to add to this, is a lot of times i have resumed prints i needed to add in a G92 E*** where *'s are a number close to the next extrusion. otherwise the printer will reject the GCode because it thinks you are trying to do a massive extrude (from E0 to E1000 for example). setting it to the nearest rounded down number allows the printer to continue printing!
This saved me! Thanks!!!
oh wow it worked thanks!!
this was exactly what i was wondering about since i normally print relative mode and this doesn't matter when gcode is in relative but in absolute mode it absolutly does matter. thank you for posting as i thought this is what i needed to do but wasn't exactly sure
i know its been a year,. but can i ask where should i put this on the code? and where should i get the value of the E*** ..
@@chloeanne4305you’ve likely figured it out, but when you search the gcode to find the Z height, if you look at the line of code right above it, there is an E number. I always copy that number before deleting all the code that has already printed, and where g92 says “E0” I paste the new E number in. Otherwise my extruder just spews filament out onto my print.
Stefan, I have been watching your videos for quite some time now and I have to day that you are one of the best content creators out there for 3D printing enthusiasts. You have a great balance of fun things, as well as MANY things that are incredibly helpful. Keep doing what you are doing, my friend. YOU ROCK
I just had a thought on resuming failed prints that you have moved on the bed. Print one layer on bed then place part ontop and resume either where left off or breakpoint minus 1 layer depending. :)
Very good idea!
I didn't understand this one
@@octimus2000 i think they are saying to print the first layer of the print again. so you know where the (failed) part was and can place it in that same positon
@@sillyface6950 oooh, now I get it. Really good idea. Thanks
What about the part adhesion? Would you glue it to that layer?
Never thought it was possible to recover a print like that. Genius. Thanks for the useful information as always. You make one of the most essential and best channels for 3D printing!
I don't own a 3D printer, but I've watched a ton of videos because I want to get one someday. And I have to say this is one of the top videos I've watched. Nice job! I'm sure a lot of makers will be using your methods to save failed printer.
Thank you Stefan!!! One of the most useful videos I've seen about 3d-printing in the last 10 years. I can't even remember how many failed prints I could not recover.
Great to hear!
Great piece of content that should be a 3Dprinting 101 for anyone owning a printer
As always, you are one of the best in the 3D printing community and probably the one who got me the most into it, Stefan. Your videos are always awesome and super helpful! Keep it up!
Thank you for this detailed guide on saving valuable printings in terms of time and material, sometimes having a big failed print feels so frustrating and this gives one a last chance not to let this lost.
I suggest doing the resume layer at much slower speed (around 10%) as well. Not only will that help layer adhesion by radiating heat into the previous layer that was likely just sitting there cooled and thus making it more likely to stick, but if you end up running the nozzle through a slightly taller section of the layer (like from warping) or previously printed part of the layer, the slower speed can allow for the nozzle to melt its way through with minimal damage to the machine. This might not be as important on lower, more normal layer heights, but the 0.8mm-1.12mm layer heights I work with at work, it makes a huge difference.
Obviously it's not ideal to have the nozzle plowing through the previous layer and it turns out very ugly, but for practical parts, the strength and successfulness is more important.
Thank you Stefan, you are a true asset to the community
My pleasure!
This is the best and most helpful video I've seen in recovering chopped prints. Very well done, sir. You are the best
This was one of the most useful videos that I have seen
Honestly, I can remember Anus's video couple years ago on CAD tricks for designing better printable parts that was and still is two orders of magnitude more useful than this.
Not saying that this one isn't useful (other than being biased around marlin and unnecessarily long, it's okay), but that one is on the whole other level.
Go watch it.
Nice.
Perhaps make a backup of the gcode file unedited first incase you mess up😁
That's always a good idea.
This is great! Thank you for taking the time to share all that you do. I've been printing for a long time on my cheap printers, no resume after power fail function. This could help save my prints some day! I have definitely had failures on 24+ hour prints due to power issues at my house before.
One of the best 3d printing resources on the internet!
About a week after you posted the video on converting a to the duet 3 mini wifi my Rambo control board heated it’s last bed. Followed your super clear tutorial and resurrected the ol pig in no time.
Thank you for continuing to share your wealth of knowledge with the community!
Make sure to also remove any wiping maneuvers and other moves if they move into the print area. Some code drag the nozzle from an edge all the way to center and that can be catastriphic.
YES
When I heard you did this on one of your previous videos, I thought "I *need* to know how!"
Always happy to help and teach!
The amount of times I've come back to this video... Thank you so much and I hope this continues to help others!
Definitely worth it. Awesome job, this is great information that one doesn't often come across. I find all you content to be clear, concise, and coherent and much of it is quite novel and technical/scientific, which I find very interesting and informative. Thanks!
This is an extremely helpful guide, amazing!
Glad it was helpful!
Last but not least, especially if there are collision problems with a restart, there is always the option of printing the remainder separately and gluing the two pieces afterward. If the remainder has disconnected pieces a wide brim that is removed after gluing can temporarily connect these volumes.
I think this is even a better idea. Sounds faster too.
They literally showed that in the video..
I feel really stupid for not thinking of this. All of my recoveries have been manual re-height, manual re-slice, etc. Sometimes with 20+ minutes of re-positioning the part because the bed cooled before I could catch the failure.
Chopping the model in the slicer and gluing would be SO MUCH EASIER! :P
Verrrry helpful man, straight to the point and zero nonsense, as most of your vids are, 5 stars sir! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Excellent video! Been watching for years and you plus many other in this wonderful community gave me the confidence to finally pull the trigger and buy a printer.
For Prusa MK3 users: When manually setting the Z-Height on a Prusa MK3 I have found that the M211 S0 command is invalid. So, instead I set a bogus G92 with a Z value large enough I can lower the z-axis to the last layer printed. Hope this helps and thank you Stephan this tutorial has saved a bunch of filament. I've come back so many time I finally decided to write myself a cheat sheet.
This should be a pinned comment!
these are great tips! 👌😌
My pleasure!
Stefan, just wanted to say thanks for the great info here. It helped me save a 62 hour print after power outage with 30 minutes left. I normally run from the SD card on the printer for longer prints to take advantage of PLR but this one was running straight from a raspi running OctoPrint. Your video helped me save the print and I thank you. Keep up the great work.
This is fantastic. I was just having a big print fail because filament ran out. With this video I was able to salvage it quite nicely and there isn't even a visible seam! Thanks a lot, Stefan!
Thank you so much for sharing this! Just had my second „print in the air“ because the nozzle was blocked a few hours ago and was thinkin that there has to be a better solution than starting over. You are one of the three content creators (I know 😊) in the 3D printing space who‘s offering continuously useful content. And to top this your focus is always on teaching and not on selling! Thanks again.
Two important things were not mentioned in this (otherwise very good) video: 1) Remove *any* auto bed levelling when you resume with a print on the bed, 2) make sure the first G0 or G1 command *only* moves the Z axis and not X and Y as well, otherwise the printer will move in a straight line from xyz zero directly to these coordinates and most likely run into the print!
I'm glad you mentioned this because this definately would have happened to me if I hadn't checked.
even after a year you still helped someone(like me) from doing something stupid
Yes, that was my thoughts, too. You should do manual homes on all axes independently in the correct order and do your first moves also manually or the odds are high of a gantry crash.
This is amazing thank you!! This method was incredibly helpful on a print where I had inserted a pause for switching filaments, but it never resumed properly. A simple gcode change and I was able to continue with no issues. You have helped me resolve countless failed prints in the future! =D
This is like the third time this video has saved the day. You're the best Stefan!
Great video! Although I think you forgot to add that you need to set the extuder position before you have it start printing. Atleast when slicing with cura, the extuder position does not get reset with every layer. So when you do just the steps you mentioned, it is going to go to the start position and extude out a boatload of filament before actually resuming. You will need to have a G92 E{extruder position} command. The extruder position will need to be the last E value from the commands that were deleted.
You can also leave the hotend at the resume z height and use a G92 Z{height} to set the current z height to avoid having it home and dislodge or crush the print. Then you can have it just home X and Y with: G28 X Y
Clearly I've made this mistake of not setting the extruder position many times
thank you - that was the solution i needed
can i ask where will i get the value that i will be puting on the G92 E***?
@@chloeanne4305 when you search for the layer you want to resume at with a z{height} (ex "z1.8" if you need to resume at 1.8), you should get to a G0 command with one of the parameters being the z{height} you are searching for. Before you delete the lines above that G0 command, scan line by line above this G0 command for a line (usu a G1 command) that has a parameter of E{numberA}. This number that follows E is what you want to plug in at G92 E{numberA} since this is the last extruder position prior to starting the layer you would like to resume.
Makes sense?
I was just wondering that, I didn't want the extruder to go to an 1578.0092 on the first move lol. Thanks!
I asked just yesterday about how to do this😂😂 this is wonderful timing
Hope you enjoyed it!
Super helpful information! I really appreciate your clear, concise, and entertaining insights, it helps reveal the mysteries of CNC g-code editing and machine interface. Thanks, keep it up!
Stefan! Excellent video. Thank you so much for posting it. This is easily the most useful video I've watched all year. I have a project where I'm printing a 3d form that will later be filled with concrete. This will be a feeder for a blind raven. Anyway, I was using old filament that kept refusing to unspool. It wouldn't break, it just wouldn't feed. This was a 3 day print and I had a major failure after about 1 day in. I followed your video and I am happy to say that it worked perfectly using a CR-10s controlled by Octoprint. I edited the gcode using visual studio code and with a gcode extension. This video really saved the day. Thanks again!
PSA: Prusa printers with mesh bed leveling automatically level the bed when sent G28, so regardless of print position on the bed sending G28 will break the print. If you can home safely you need to do so by replacing G28 with G28 W, which instructs the printer to home without repeating bed probing (tested on i3 Mk2S)
I do: " G28 W ;Home "and the head of the printer go right in my print, what can I do?
@@chrismoro8858 i know bit late but u had the same problem so i changed the safe home position in the printer.cfg so it would home somewhere else and after saving and restarting instantly change bed temperature to what you need before homing
If you try to resume in the middle of a layer (eg., a very wide print), be sure to use G92 on the E axis as well!
This was an amazing explanation! Moving the head down to the structure to calculate its height helped so much! Once you get the height, make sure to move the head across the entire plane at that height to ensure you don't get any collisions while printing.
YES!!! Thanks Stefan! I had a clog in a 12 hour print and thought THIS time I'm going to save the thing instead of chucking it out and starting over. Your instructions helped me find the right spot in my gcode, delete everything in between and restart. It picked up right where it left off.
It's important to note that the extrusion mode must be set to relative ( m83) the first time you make your gcode file in the slicer, because it won't work if it was in absolute mode.
if i just change the code to m83 now will it not work?
Everyone needs to save this video 😂
Especially if you print large silly things that take hours and hours to print.
You've saved my prints. Amazing video and I'm glad you have the octoprint portion at the end as it made things much simpler.
This is amazing. I assumed this kind of thing was impossible or not worth it. But the "look for features and retraction zits in the gcode" seems super clear after seeing it. Going to have to home my printer while watching it to figure out where I should print tall things for easy homing. Heat creep is a huge issue on my old Replicator 2x.
You're a wizard, Stefan!
The video everyone needs to watch
Advanced level: Do it on a belt printer!
Belt printers already mess up my brain. This will even make it worse.
You have no idea how much this video save a print that was about 15 hrs in. I'm so glad I came across this about a month ago and saved it.
A very big
THANK YOU!!! 😀
I print so much from begin instead of modify the G-Code...
Best video seen last 5 years! 😀
Seria mas facil grabar un timelapse donde se apreciara el dato de altura Z en la pantalla,luego hay que irse al gcode y editarlo para que inicie donde se descontinuo la impresion
"Scheiße!"
Bro! Thank you so much for this video, earlier today I came home to the dreaded "air printing" on a 20 hour print expecting it to be done only to find out it starting air printing around 17 hours, I just followed your video and thanks to you, my print is sitting at 96% and almost done!! You are the man!! Thank you!
I only got a 3d printer on the weekend. So happy that I found this video - simply one of the most clever ways to enable a chance at recovering a failure. Appreciated. Will try this when it inevitably happens to me :)
0:02 beste Beschreibung
Ultrabase, Powder-Coated Pei and Glass Bed Users be like: * smiles in pain *
Yeah well it all has Pro´s and Con´s i guess :D
But normaly, you see the stop of extruding filament during the print. So the bed is still heated.
Well you certainly earned the like, litterally the morning after you posted this i had a fail in a multi-day print, thanks to this I got it printing with very little trouble
You just saved a ton of people from a bunch of headaches and wasted material!!!!!!! Can’t believe it took this long for someone to make a video about this.
Legend! Thanks so much for coming back to this from your last video. Super helpful!
You were my avatar, when I needed you the most you weren't there, but now this topic has finally come alive and I'm grateful 🤝
Thanks Stefan. I was able to save an overnight print after my filament ran out. Following your instructions was simple and your calm, straight-forward delivery turned a potentially stressful situation into a learning experience. It also saved filament and about 18 hours.
I have resumed a failed print thanks to this video, it is wonderful. It wasn't really failed, but I forgot this spool was low, but same idea. Thank you so much Stefan wonderful video.
You're a champion! Was at least 15hrs into a print and the nozzle clogged!.... your video just saved it! Thanks
Thank you Stefan! You rescued my print!
It was easier than I thought it would be and I learned a lot.
i watched this nearly a week ago, got up this morning to my printer had lost connection to my Pi, got the height, checked it again, did the gcode thing and off it went, perfect, thanks bud
You saved my print! It failed 5 days in and two days later I saw this video and it picked up right where it left off thanks to you!!
saved me 10 hours and earned a subscription! I'm looking forward to seeing your other posts!
This video couldn't have shown up at a better time, just after watching it I left a print overnight and the extruder clogged, and I used the tips to resume it.
Many thanks!
Stefan, I can't tell you how many times I've ALMOST been able to do this! Unfortunately it has been far too long since I wrote or edited any G-code, and thus the partial success. Thank you for the guide! Incredibly helpful, though for us who favor Cura, as noted by others here, there are a few extra steps to be aware of. Prost!
Thank you Stefan, this video is why I love your channel!
This was clear and helpful! I've always thought it was possible, but never managed to find a functioning procedure, thanks!
Thanks, Stefan due to your tutorial I was able to continue a 40 hr. print, with only a small line to distinguish the continuation of the print. Thanks again!
Thank you so much! New to printing, been doing it for about 3 weeks now. Just had this happen to me and i was able to recover the print since it was still aheared to the bed.
Thank you again!
I saved a few prints buy measuring what was printed and cutting the model and printing what was left saved a lot of time and material saved your video in hopes of learning other ways to save failed prints in that manor thnx and keep making great videos dude
Thank you! We just had a power outage during a print. Your instructions were very clear and I was able to continue the print. It's Christmas Day today, so Merry Christmas!
The double ruler trick is great! But yes, the calipers is the best way to do this for sure! Never used the printer as a CMM, that is brilliant! I agree, next layer is better for sure, we have tried the same layer, it can be a pain in the butt! But man, these days, this is not common! Materials have gotten so much better in the last 5 years or so. Great Video!
Actually one of the most useful videos about 3d printing i've seen since i bought my printer
Great to hear that!
THANK YOU!! my print failed 50 hours in and managed to save it with this tutorial. idk what i would do without this guide.
Thank s lot Stefan, i was avoiding massive 3d prints because of fear air printing and other interruptions. But today i managed to fix one large interrupted print, thanks to your tips!
Awesome video, I've been wondering about this fur a while now. The explanation on how to recover without auto-homing is definitely gonna save a bunch of plastic at stone some point👍🏻
This saved me, thank you! The last 5 minutes of a 5hr print was all I needed.
I skipped over this video for the most part the first time I saw it. After having a 54 hour print go down after a brown out the memory of this video was the first thing I went to. Thank you.
Thank you for your video. I've hade to rematch it as I have had a failed print. Now I can recover it and save on time and filament. Thanks again.
Thank you Stefan I have used both methods printed splitting part and glue them together. Also resume printing as in the last part of your video.
I knew there was a way, just couldn't be bothered to find out how to do it, thx for the video, 11 min several types of approaches and ein sehr gute ausfurhung
Thank you a lot Stefan! I was 22 hours into a 56 hours print, and lost power for a split second.
I am running Klipper on my Ender 3 S1, and although I wasn't able to home Z to follow your tutorial, so I re sliced the rest of the file, and printed with the new Z 0 being at the height where it left off.
Stefan, it was great. I am glad you did this. I measured total height and printed the remaining directly to the print bed because the item came loose. I may try a benchy fail. To practice.
Thanks
Thank you so much for this vid! I just saved a 20-hour print that suffered a thermal runaway at the 19 hour mark. The original file was 1,066,477 lines of code, and after editing it is 94,950 lines long.
Your instructions were clear and "on point". I use Cura so I double-checked on your website what to edit, and adding those three lines after G28 worked like a charm! (M106, G0, G92)
This is certainly an "essential skill" :)
Such a great video. I've glued the missing part but I need to try this next time a long print fails And it's a good opportunity to learn some basic gcode editing too. Thank you!
This just saved my overnight print which stopped from over temp shutdown! i would not have had enough filament to start over from scratch! Im so happy, thank you!
This saved me about 52 hours and $17! Thank you so so much!!!!! I also had to modify my gcode to move the Z axis first after homing and before moving Y as the print was quite tall and the gantry would have knocked it off the build plate if I hadn't cut the power on my first attempt.
Just used this video to rescue a print that failed 11½ hours into a 14 hour print. It was a big one so I couldn't use the auto home. I seem to have gotten away with it though because of your instructions.
Massive thank you for making this video 👍
Hi Stefan, Thanks for your tip. I used the last bit of the video, as I was unable to home the z-xas. this whole video was good, well done and thank for saving my project.
My first 2 day print ever, the X stepper motor cable came loose a day and a half into the print and it was just printing a blob forward and backward. I was able to peal off the blob, keep the bed heated, measure the height, home X and Y, move the print to the front and home Z behind the print, create some fancy gcode, and resume printing perfectly. Being able to pull something like this off is essential for longer FDM prints in my opinion.
I had a momentary power failure just minutes after watching this video, and thanks to this advice I was able to get my print running again quickly. Thanks!
I'm sorry but I hope it worked out for you!