Followed this to replace front & rear axle fluids, rear axle only had a couple of hundred cc's drain but took 1.5 litres, no sign of any leaks any where, will be changing the front diff oil now that I have some 16mm impact sockets, normal 16mm Chrome vanadium socket bust when I put the rattle gun on the slider plate bolts, great video, please keep them coming
When taking the metal plate off, what i do is leaving one bolt on (the one to far rear of the plate., but loose, so I can push the plate to one side and it wont fall on year head, makes it much easier to put it back in place. but great video as always. :D
Quick tip: Get a garden spray pump. Most of them come with a tube and a manually activated spray handle. Now use this container for oil. Pump it up, take the handle and once you have the end of the handle in the fill hole simply press the handle and watch the oil flowing in. If nescessary just pump a little bit of pressure to keep the oil going. If you have more types of oil then take a marker and name your containers so you don't mix'em up by accident :)
For BMW "LifeTime" is 7 years. They officially said they design/produce cars to last 6-7 years. After that according to them you should buy a new one. So if you are having a 15 y/o BMW you should definitely change oil in diffs and gearbox.
FYI Bentley manual for the 2007 X3 says not to fill until coming out the opening but to only put in 600ml of fluid. Filling full is about 700ml and can cause overflow leak through the top vent and clogging of same vent. Not sure if this is just for the X3 or similar front diffs.
Once again. Good job. Fluids change on the differential didn't need to be changed some suggested. I've heard that about transmission fluid doesn't not need to be changed also. It's has something to do with bad mixing, new oil with old oil.
+JCruzify1 BMW says their fluids are lifetime fill. A lot of people feel that "lifetime" is basically until the fluid oxidizes and causes the transmission to fail. So...changing it is a good idea.
Great vids! Was really hoping you would post the dreaded oil pan gasket replacement for the e53. I've heard the subframe or driveshaft may need to be detached not sure. There is one DIY that shows a riskier option cutting the gasket in two places and sliding them over the pan and sealing with just a bit of ultra black gasket seal at those cut areas. That one should work if you do it right. Appreciate all the videos.
+Giggidygiggidy12 Yeah....not sure I would even want to do the cutting it into two parts hack anyway, and I DO have the engine support bar you need to safely lower the subframe. Speaking of which, I had to do that in order to replace the steering rack on this vehicle, and that video should be out in another month or so. So you can follow along with that video to see what is involved in lowering the subframe (I believe one of the axles goes through the oil pan, so I think you do have to remove them as well. It does sound like a lot of work, now that I think about it, lol.
Hi, First of all, I bumped into your videos in TH-cam and must say that they are Great. Not only you know your stuff but the dedication you place on making them tells a lot about you. Keep Up the Good Job. I have a problem and hope you can share some light. Here it is: I have a 2005 330I (E46) with 215000 miles that was not used for over a year (About 18 month) I went to get it going and running once again, installed a new battery and poured fresh gas. The car cranks but won't start. I was able to start it spraying Carb Cleaner into the air intake. So this tells me it has electricity. When I turn the key to on position I can hear the Gas pump activating. Can you give me some pointer on how to proceed this troubleshooting?
Great video. Was the bottle for the rear also a quart? So that's around 1 litre for the front and 1.2ish litres for the rear? Checking before I buy mine.
Great job but remember the plate in the front is put back on with suspension pre-loaded (weight of the vehicle fully on the wheels). The plate is an integral part of the fronts end’s strength & is dangerous to drive the vehicle without it in place. This can be done with the wheels on ramps or a strong wooden block made & placed under the wheels. Never drive the vehicle without that plate on & correctly attached & torqued in. BMW says you must replace all the bolts on installation as they’re torque to yield bolts & stretch at final turn using a dial indicator. So the removed bolts are no good to you.
Great job! Love the videos. I have the same car and am experiencing a lot of vibration at idle when the car is in drive and foot on the break. Was thinking about doing a differential fluid change to see if that would help. Did you notice a smoother idle at stop lights and such after you did this fluid change? Thanks for the insight!
If it was really lifetime fill as BMW likes to claim they would and should have permanently sealed off the fill and drain plugs at the factory which they didn't.
that Metal frame which has 16m screws covering the differential ,,on my X5 2005 E53 is not connected to Front Arms ,I mean is it easy to screw it out as you did because I want clean the Foam inside it,so much oil in there
Hi, is it normal to have glitter in the oil? Don’t know too much on diffs, I have got bearing noise of some kind in front drive line, transfer case oil is v clean, front diff is rainbow so looking to swap the diff and hope it’s the noise.
I hate that damn dust shield. The couldn't have a threaded weld on the frame 😠. That and whose idea was it to make the dust shield bolts share with the sway bar mount smh
Hello, just one quick question about these diffs. On realoem com web site it is not quite defined which screws/plugs should i use on my 2004 4.8is. Looks like they are mentioning o-rings and you had washers. I have found BMW S/N 33326760380 M14 and 33117525064 M22... So Did you have all 4 plugs same size or not? Looks like i have 14 and 22mm... Thank you
Followed this to replace front & rear axle fluids, rear axle only had a couple of hundred cc's drain but took 1.5 litres, no sign of any leaks any where, will be changing the front diff oil now that I have some 16mm impact sockets, normal 16mm Chrome vanadium socket bust when I put the rattle gun on the slider plate bolts, great video, please keep them coming
When taking the metal plate off, what i do is leaving one bolt on (the one to far rear of the plate., but loose, so I can push the plate to one side and it wont fall on year head, makes it much easier to put it back in place. but great video as always. :D
you've helped me save a lot of money!! Thank you! (and to your kind helper keeping you in frame)
Quick tip: Get a garden spray pump. Most of them come with a tube and a manually activated spray handle. Now use this container for oil. Pump it up, take the handle and once you have the end of the handle in the fill hole simply press the handle and watch the oil flowing in. If nescessary just pump a little bit of pressure to keep the oil going. If you have more types of oil then take a marker and name your containers so you don't mix'em up by accident :)
For BMW "LifeTime" is 7 years. They officially said they design/produce cars to last 6-7 years. After that according to them you should buy a new one. So if you are having a 15 y/o BMW you should definitely change oil in diffs and gearbox.
FYI Bentley manual for the 2007 X3 says not to fill until coming out the opening but to only put in 600ml of fluid. Filling full is about 700ml and can cause overflow leak through the top vent and clogging of same vent. Not sure if this is just for the X3 or similar front diffs.
Once again. Good job. Fluids change on the differential didn't need to be changed some suggested. I've heard that about transmission fluid doesn't not need to be changed also. It's has something to do with bad mixing, new oil with old oil.
+JCruzify1 BMW says their fluids are lifetime fill. A lot of people feel that "lifetime" is basically until the fluid oxidizes and causes the transmission to fail. So...changing it is a good idea.
Great vids!
Was really hoping you would post the dreaded oil pan gasket replacement for the e53. I've heard the subframe or driveshaft may need to be detached not sure. There is one DIY that shows a riskier option cutting the gasket in two places and sliding them over the pan and sealing with just a bit of ultra black gasket seal at those cut areas. That one should work if you do it right. Appreciate all the videos.
+Giggidygiggidy12 Yeah....not sure I would even want to do the cutting it into two parts hack anyway, and I DO have the engine support bar you need to safely lower the subframe. Speaking of which, I had to do that in order to replace the steering rack on this vehicle, and that video should be out in another month or so. So you can follow along with that video to see what is involved in lowering the subframe (I believe one of the axles goes through the oil pan, so I think you do have to remove them as well. It does sound like a lot of work, now that I think about it, lol.
Hi,
First of all, I bumped into your videos in TH-cam and must say that they are Great. Not only you know your stuff but the dedication you place on making them tells a lot about you. Keep Up the Good Job.
I have a problem and hope you can share some light. Here it is:
I have a 2005 330I (E46) with 215000 miles that was not used for over a year (About 18 month)
I went to get it going and running once again, installed a new battery and poured fresh gas.
The car cranks but won't start. I was able to start it spraying Carb Cleaner into the air intake. So this tells me it has electricity. When I turn the key to on position I can hear the Gas pump activating.
Can you give me some pointer on how to proceed this troubleshooting?
Great video. Was the bottle for the rear also a quart? So that's around 1 litre for the front and 1.2ish litres for the rear? Checking before I buy mine.
It was and that sounds about right
Great job but remember the plate in the front is put back on with suspension pre-loaded (weight of the vehicle fully on the wheels). The plate is an integral part of the fronts end’s strength & is dangerous to drive the vehicle without it in place. This can be done with the wheels on ramps or a strong wooden block made & placed under the wheels. Never drive the vehicle without that plate on & correctly attached & torqued in. BMW says you must replace all the bolts on installation as they’re torque to yield bolts & stretch at final turn using a dial indicator. So the removed bolts are no good to you.
Hi 50sKid, I noticed "Limited Slip" on the bottle. Limited slip is only for M models. Not sure if it matters that much. Does it. Thanks
It's ok for regular ones too. But you can't pour regular one to a limited slip differential or it will break down the plates of it.
Great job! Love the videos. I have the same car and am experiencing a lot of vibration at idle when the car is in drive and foot on the break. Was thinking about doing a differential fluid change to see if that would help. Did you notice a smoother idle at stop lights and such after you did this fluid change?
Thanks for the insight!
Differential fluid has nothing to do with that. Check your motor mounts.
wow
Thank you.
If it was really lifetime fill as BMW likes to claim they would and should have permanently sealed off the fill and drain plugs at the factory which they didn't.
that Metal frame which has 16m screws covering the differential ,,on my X5 2005 E53 is not connected to Front Arms ,I mean is it easy to screw it out as you did because I want clean the Foam inside it,so much oil in there
Really appreciate this video good job.
What type of oil is in the axle Supporting bracket next to oil pan? Is it 75w90 or its engine oil ?
Thank you
I believe it was 75w90 yes. Definitely not engine oil. Search on google to find out for sure.
Hi, is it normal to have glitter in the oil? Don’t know too much on diffs, I have got bearing noise of some kind in front drive line, transfer case oil is v clean, front diff is rainbow so looking to swap the diff and hope it’s the noise.
Is that a hole in the exhaust pipe at 7:00 ?
I hate that damn dust shield. The couldn't have a threaded weld on the frame 😠. That and whose idea was it to make the dust shield bolts share with the sway bar mount smh
Do you need to have the fluid temperature at the normal running temperature when changing the gear oil?
Hey bro i just got a 2006 bmw x5 100 thousand miles on it. What you recomended to do all oils fluids. ?
Hello, just one quick question about these diffs. On realoem com web site it is not quite defined which screws/plugs should i use on my 2004 4.8is. Looks like they are mentioning o-rings and you had washers. I have found BMW S/N 33326760380 M14 and 33117525064 M22... So Did you have all 4 plugs same size or not? Looks like i have 14 and 22mm... Thank you
I have a 2006 e53 and it had no drain bung.. Had to suck old oil out
What about adding friction modifier do you think you have to do that with this differential fluid change
No, not a limited slip differential
what spec of oil did you use? I'm in the UK with an e53 3.0d.
Look at 4:29 I have a shot of the bottle of fluid I used.
I used a medical douche to inject the fluid to rear differential, works great
lol
actually more like a syringe. god damn translator D:
Can you use 75w90??
Rudy Hamilton yes