Hi Alex, (and Mike), Well done the pair of you, not the easiest job in the world, especially with those plug plates. I had the same problem with my Toyota Corrola Estate when I had it in the early eighties, but it was a much easier fix because the tensioner was accesible by removing chain guard/crank case. I kept the old one for posterity. It ran a lot better after that. I must say that Mr Jenkins sounds great now, like he should do. I hope that once you have the coolant back in it won't leak... All the best as always, Jon B. 👍👏🙂
Thanks for the look at the lower tensioner Alex. I've tangled with my upper one a few times, but not yet grappled with the lower. I found it best to glue the backing plate to the tensioner body for reinstallation. Good job getting the access plugs to go back in with new O rings! And particularly well done managing to do it without dropping the sump, though these actually have the easiest sump to drop that I've ever encountered!
I would have taken the oil pan off! Half the time when working on these tensioners I have dropped bits down there, so I would take it off from the start. I would rather take the risk of an oil leak after wards than a coolant leak from the water pump. Most Rovers leak from the oil pan anyway. Also I hope you put in a Renolds tensioner. The Rolon ones have a nasty habit of losing their rubber pads. If you chain is still noisy after this then your engine bearings need replacing. You can do this with the oil pan off! No need to pull the motor!
Hiya. Water pump would still need to be removed to access tensioner. No bits were dropped, so no need for sump off. I had all new rings and bearings about 30k miles ago. The lower tensioner had definitely failed and the noise is gone now new tensioner fitted. The new tensioner was a genuine NOS item in BL box.
@@Alexsassets I know I took the tension off when I did my main and rod bearings about 12 years ago. I think I could have removed the tensioner unit it from underneath but I could be wrong. It had the plug in the back. New old stock tensioner is definitely the way to go. There is also a Massey Ferguson tensioner that made by Renolds that is good. Ones marked Rolon come apart with the rubber pad leaving the metal part, which leaves a piece of metal acting as the tensioner on the timing chain. A very unsatisfactory situation!
Great to see you back on the tools Alex. The summer travelogue was OK
, banter and spanner swinging with Mike and your friends much more fun ✅✅✅
Hi Alex, (and Mike),
Well done the pair of you, not the easiest job in the world, especially with those plug plates. I had the same problem with my Toyota Corrola Estate when I had it in the early eighties, but it was a much easier fix because the tensioner was accesible by removing chain guard/crank case. I kept the old one for posterity. It ran a lot better after that. I must say that Mr Jenkins sounds great now, like he should do. I hope that once you have the coolant back in it won't leak...
All the best as always,
Jon B. 👍👏🙂
Brilliant alex that was fun to watch. Well done with the core plugs.
A great video which is interesting, fun and innuendo charged and I love it one of your best Alex.
Well done both, and great entertainment.
Thanks for the look at the lower tensioner Alex. I've tangled with my upper one a few times, but not yet grappled with the lower. I found it best to glue the backing plate to the tensioner body for reinstallation. Good job getting the access plugs to go back in with new O rings! And particularly well done managing to do it without dropping the sump, though these actually have the easiest sump to drop that I've ever encountered!
🥰 thank you x i am so happy the job is done now
Great fun video
“I need TC for my inlet holes!”
😆😆
I would have taken the oil pan off! Half the time when working on these tensioners I have dropped bits down there, so I would take it off from the start. I would rather take the risk of an oil leak after wards than a coolant leak from the water pump. Most Rovers leak from the oil pan anyway.
Also I hope you put in a Renolds tensioner. The Rolon ones have a nasty habit of losing their rubber pads.
If you chain is still noisy after this then your engine bearings need replacing. You can do this with the oil pan off! No need to pull the motor!
Hiya. Water pump would still need to be removed to access tensioner.
No bits were dropped, so no need for sump off.
I had all new rings and bearings about 30k miles ago.
The lower tensioner had definitely failed and the noise is gone now new tensioner fitted.
The new tensioner was a genuine NOS item in BL box.
@@Alexsassets I know I took the tension off when I did my main and rod bearings about 12 years ago. I think I could have removed the tensioner unit it from underneath but I could be wrong. It had the plug in the back.
New old stock tensioner is definitely the way to go. There is also a Massey Ferguson tensioner that made by Renolds that is good. Ones marked Rolon come apart with the rubber pad leaving the metal part, which leaves a piece of metal acting as the tensioner on the timing chain. A very unsatisfactory situation!