Hi, RB can you make comparison in speed between: stock vs 1 set of gears swapped places vs 1 set of gear swapped places+ 1 new set of gear (the grey ones) vs both set of gears just swaped places? I am currently running stock set, but when I've went into grass with it it slowed down a lot, a little bump and power was already off. I am thinking of switching some gears to make it viable to climb a bit but not becoming snail slow.
@@Valkyxer if you watch my videos about the vehicle you can see the speed difference of the different combinations. Changing the gears is a 5 minute (maximum) exercise so I suggest to swap them on your car and see what speed/power combination is the best for you.
stage 1: ratio 1:1,667 * 1,667:1 = 1 steps 78:82 * 131:145 stage 2: 1,667:1 * 1:1 = 0.6 steps: 18:19 * 154:176 replace stage 1 with 16:16 * 16:16 or undo the stage 1. so it is either I do stage 1 or stage 2? so if it is a new build, stage 1: replace steps 78:82 * 131:145 with 16T or swap parts for 78:82 * 131:145 if I dont have 16T yet. stage 2: swap gears 18:19 * 154:176 is it recommended to do stage 1 and stage 2? or stage 1 only or stage 2 only? Thank you!!
I bought it in September from an online store for 180 Euros. The car is great! Take care in assembly, I changed the gear ratio so that the car has torque and climbs over anything and NOT speed (change the small black wheel with the larger yellow wheel in the instructions). If the batteries are new, the car will climb on almost anything. Separately I bought an 11.1V Li-Po (Li-ion) battery (now it is "supercharged"). I mean it works SUPER! It also has speed and it has torque to climb over anything. The car is for enthusiasts who don't just want a LEGO Technics that pulls or it's static. It is great, I do recommend it.
Just added a hub/cord protector, roof support, changed a part so the front rotates better, and a hub holder in place thingy:) I love your video's and love the 42099 set!
@@ArchisMarathe for example, If you have a 1meter diameter, you run 1 meter every wheel spin, if you have 50 cm diameter, you run 50 cm every single wheel spin. So, if your motors run at the same rpm, the bigger is the wheel the longer is your run.
@@paologalbiati3782 Yes, but a wheel with a diameter of 1m will not travel 1m per each rotation... it will travel a distance of 2 x pi x radius per rotation... which means 2 x pi x 0.5 = pi +-= 3.14m...
I found changing only 1 set of gears on the front and back to 16T gears works nice as well it goes a bit slower but has a good amount of torque for those who like a bit more speed
Yes it's a challenge, especially if the rc car is faster and you want to film it close to the ground :) I'd like to try it one day with a smaller but more agile drone as well.
woah - well after this vid i really want this set - its very good and powerfull - i only dont enjoy design of it - but its easy to build body - i hope you will one time make one and put to YT ;)
With these gearing changes you can already slow it down to a level where the height and stability becomes an issue and not the lack of power/torque so I did not see a point to add that
I haven't built this one yet, but with the 41999 I was able to just change the position of 4 gears and was able to get much more speed out of it. I would assume that you could swap the positions of the 12T gears with the 20T gears and get even more power than the two 16T gears working together.
@@billlacey7273 i have 41999 too, (altho not working something wrong with rc recievers cable..), also swapping the already existing gears, racingbrick already did that before, it gives more torque less speed yes, but i do want speed aswell, so i ask is it just ter swap out the 12 and 20 with 16 for not as much torque as 12 20 but more speed than that
When you swap the original ones, it gets VERY slow, by using 16 tooth gears, it becomes slower than a non-modified crawler but faster than a swapped gear one while not sacrificing much crawling abilities, so it's up to you, if you don't feel like getting 16 tooth gears or your not really into speed, just buy the stock set and swap the gears, if you want a higher speed while still being able to crawl, buy 16 tooth gears
There are 2 set of gears for each axle. Swapping one set gives you a balanced performance, if you swap both that would be too slow. If you replace one set with the 16ts that's in between.
@@RacingBrick thanks, I will give that a try. Next thing to try is to increase the ground clearance! Nice video btw, really shows off the capabilities of this thing once modded
There's a thing I don't get, as long as I don't have it yet and no computer model is available until somebody models the new components. I see in the plans two motors, each one for a pair of wheels. Swapping one set of gears only wouldn't make wheels rotating at different speeds?
Hi Racingbrick Thanks for the very cool videos. I will build this model this weekend, I've already ordered the extra 4 16t gears... I have read few times this tutorial but I'm not 100% sure if I understood all of it... Sorry to be a pain... Am I correct if I say that to achieve the stage 2 upgrade (the best and more fun one), all I have to do is execute the 5 min upgrade, then replace the 4 remaining gears with the 16t? Best regards.
RacingBrick please answer my question.. = is this stage 2 mod just about replacing the 12 tooth and 20 tooth on both front and back with a total of four 16 tooth gears? is that all?
@@RacingBrick (sorry if i might sound annoying..) so wait, other set? (i havent got 42099 yet so im kinda confused), so the 4, 16T is in one part of the viechle and the 12T 20T is swapped in another side of the set? (That all these total 8 gears in same set same time?)
@@sitsia3808 the front and the rear axles both have 2-2 set of 12T/20T gears originally. Altogether 4 12T and 4 20T. You can either swap them (instead of gearing up it will gear down) or replace a pair of them with two 16Ts, but since you need to do this for both axles you'll need 4 16Ts.
@@RacingBrick well,I mean,I have the LED pack,and,you know,a slow car with lights isn't good,so im gonna do the stage 1 upgrade,they're the Motor(motor connected)front gear pack right? or can you send me a link to your post or tell me the steps? as you know I haven't got it assembled
With those gears you would make it slower. Without changing the structure you can't make the car faster beacuse there's no space to swap the gears e.g. for a 8t-24t combination. But I would not recommend to make it faster, this is supposed to be an off-road car and in the stock configuration the climbing abilities are already limited. If you make it faster it won't even be able to climb a 1x1 brick.
RacingBrick, thanks for that. I would buy 4 x 16t 94925 for when I want more power. Do you know what gear ratio would make it go faster? We could live with fact it can’t climb one Lego brick if in fast mode.
@@sibiu1 the one that I mentioned previously - 8t-24t. But the 24t gear does not fit in a 3 stud wide space that's why you need to make structural changes to use that.
If I replaced only the rear gears for 16 tons and first leave the original settings will have the model and enough power and speed? And will it be 1 to 1 or need to be exchanged first for 16t? Thanks
having a different gearing for the front and the rear axles is not a good idea. Check the gearings available in this post and choose what is best for you - racingbrick.com/2019/08/lego-technic-42099-4x4-x-treme-off-roader-stage-2-upgrade-even-more-power-with-only-4-extra-gears/
@@RacingBrick I thought if I had 20 and 12 gears in front of the wheels and 2 x 16T at the back would be a problem? need to have both front and back 2 x 16 T? I want it to have speed but also some strength
@@Matej-Brick sorry, misunderstood your question. For each axle there are 2 pair of gears. Out of the two pairs for each axle it does not matter which one is changed for which, but the configuration for both axles needs to be the same. If you leave one pair of gears the original, and change the other to 2 16Ts that will have the climbing mode like here - th-cam.com/video/-vS2dYhYPmg/w-d-xo.html If you leave one pair the original and swap the other pair that will be like the "5 minute upgrade" speed and climbing performance - th-cam.com/video/0-6Gl6AW7KI/w-d-xo.html
@@RacingBrick yes both axles have two pairs of gears on both we replace one pair of gears, speed should be quite good and power should be good right?, ak by som ale vymenil iba jeden pár povedzme zadný lahko vymenitelny bude mat model aj silu aj rychlost?, it will be fine?
Because they did not want to build yet another crawler. I guess the target audience prefers speed and mediocre off-road capabilities rather than being very slow but a good crawler.
Do you think there is solution to the differentials problem? Can i for example swap the differential for 12 and 24 gears instead, and eliminating gear clicking in this way?
@@RacingBrick No but read in some forums and some comments that with this much torque the stress will be on the differential and the little gears inside will start to click. Add to that, because it is an open diff it won't be good for very critical situations so a "locked diff" would be much better. That is why I asked if it was possible to take out the whole diff and just put maybe two knob gears or normal gear instead, would you thin that it is a good idea?
More details in the post - racingbrick.com/2019/08/lego-technic-42099-4x4-x-treme-off-roader-stage-2-upgrade-even-more-power-with-only-4-extra-gears/
Hi, RB can you make comparison in speed between: stock vs 1 set of gears swapped places vs 1 set of gear swapped places+ 1 new set of gear (the grey ones) vs both set of gears just swaped places? I am currently running stock set, but when I've went into grass with it it slowed down a lot, a little bump and power was already off. I am thinking of switching some gears to make it viable to climb a bit but not becoming snail slow.
@@Valkyxer if you watch my videos about the vehicle you can see the speed difference of the different combinations. Changing the gears is a 5 minute (maximum) exercise so I suggest to swap them on your car and see what speed/power combination is the best for you.
I did the stage 2, works great.
Is there a tutorial for locking the diffs? Or will it damage the engines?
stage 1:
ratio
1:1,667 * 1,667:1 = 1
steps
78:82 * 131:145
stage 2:
1,667:1 * 1:1 = 0.6
steps:
18:19 * 154:176
replace stage 1 with 16:16 * 16:16
or undo the stage 1.
so it is either I do stage 1 or stage 2?
so if it is a new build,
stage 1: replace steps 78:82 * 131:145 with 16T
or swap parts for 78:82 * 131:145 if I dont have 16T yet.
stage 2: swap gears 18:19 * 154:176
is it recommended to do stage 1 and stage 2?
or stage 1 only or stage 2 only?
Thank you!!
I bought it in September from an online store for 180 Euros.
The car is great! Take care in assembly, I changed the gear ratio so that the car has torque and climbs over anything and NOT speed (change the small black wheel with the larger yellow wheel in the instructions).
If the batteries are new, the car will climb on almost anything.
Separately I bought an 11.1V Li-Po (Li-ion) battery (now it is "supercharged").
I mean it works SUPER! It also has speed and it has torque to climb over anything.
The car is for enthusiasts who don't just want a LEGO Technics that pulls or it's static.
It is great, I do recommend it.
Great video! It's nice to see that this set has potential.
still 34 km/h. Cool so fast! Btw, you have a nice sandbox in the yard)
Lol that'd be fun if it was a real 34 km/h :)
О привет чел я на тебя подписан
Cool! Especially the views with your quadcopter!
Your vids are just awesome.I bought a 42099 after watching them.thumb up
King of the hill!!
Perfect video I love off-road. I love youtube Chanel. Okai
Just added a hub/cord protector, roof support, changed a part so the front rotates better, and a hub holder in place thingy:)
I love your video's and love the 42099 set!
Oh, very thank you. You are best
Nagyon jól működik a 16T-s fogaskerekeķkell. Kösz az ötletet.
control plus motors are amazing with the power they have
Another fantastic video! So it seems that this set in not that terrible after all ;)
It can definitely use more speed, too.
Could the problem of both speed and power be solved by adding two more motors?
1:13 actually bigger wheels should make it even worse
How? Shouldn't the bigger radius give it more torque?
@@ArchisMarathe no, bigger tyres=more speed and less torque.
@@paologalbiati3782 how? Can you explain it a bit?
@@ArchisMarathe for example,
If you have a 1meter diameter, you run 1 meter every wheel spin, if you have 50 cm diameter, you run 50 cm every single wheel spin.
So, if your motors run at the same rpm, the bigger is the wheel the longer is your run.
@@paologalbiati3782 Yes, but a wheel with a diameter of 1m will not travel 1m per each rotation... it will travel a distance of 2 x pi x radius per rotation... which means 2 x pi x 0.5 = pi +-= 3.14m...
okay, now I am buying this
I found changing only 1 set of gears on the front and back to 16T gears works nice as well it goes a bit slower but has a good amount of torque for those who like a bit more speed
Thank you I also tried changing to 16T gears, and it climbed about 30% stronger than the origina
Filming an RC car model with a drone is nice :D Had some active track experiments in mind as well)
Yes it's a challenge, especially if the rc car is faster and you want to film it close to the ground :) I'd like to try it one day with a smaller but more agile drone as well.
@@RacingBrick Which one have you used this time?
@@sergey_ulyanoff it's a DJI Spark.
@@RacingBrick it's pretty small already 😃
@@sergey_ulyanoff that's true, but it's not that agile like the small FPV drones.
woah - well after this vid i really want this set - its very good and powerfull - i only dont enjoy design of it - but its easy to build body - i hope you will one time make one and put to YT ;)
So it's crawling after all. Cool video. :-)
Just giving it the ability that the look deserves :)
Wait, what? Yellow means slow? 😁
th-cam.com/video/3igDZrG3DTQ/w-d-xo.html
I'm curious, have you tried adding the portal gears from the Unimog to the axles? Might reduce the gearing further
With these gearing changes you can already slow it down to a level where the height and stability becomes an issue and not the lack of power/torque so I did not see a point to add that
can you motorize with buwizz and pf motors
please
Very cool and impressive.
So if i understand correctly its just about replacing the 12 tooth and 20 tooth on both sides with a total of four 16 tooth gears? that's all?
I haven't built this one yet, but with the 41999 I was able to just change the position of 4 gears and was able to get much more speed out of it. I would assume that you could swap the positions of the 12T gears with the 20T gears and get even more power than the two 16T gears working together.
@@billlacey7273 i have 41999 too, (altho not working something wrong with rc recievers cable..), also swapping the already existing gears, racingbrick already did that before, it gives more torque less speed yes, but i do want speed aswell, so i ask is it just ter swap out the 12 and 20 with 16 for not as much torque as 12 20 but more speed than that
Great Job - Thumbs up
A speed comparison would be nice too.
great idea RacingBrick ?
I would need more that one sample of the model, maybe jext year
@@RacingBrick Ok thanks :)
Thx mate
Why are two 16 tooth gears better than swapping the original ones?
When you swap the original ones, it gets VERY slow, by using 16 tooth gears, it becomes slower than a non-modified crawler but faster than a swapped gear one while not sacrificing much crawling abilities, so it's up to you, if you don't feel like getting 16 tooth gears or your not really into speed, just buy the stock set and swap the gears, if you want a higher speed while still being able to crawl, buy 16 tooth gears
There are 2 set of gears for each axle. Swapping one set gives you a balanced performance, if you swap both that would be too slow. If you replace one set with the 16ts that's in between.
@@RacingBrick thanks, I will give that a try. Next thing to try is to increase the ground clearance! Nice video btw, really shows off the capabilities of this thing once modded
@@RacingBrick just found your IG, followed =D
There's a thing I don't get, as long as I don't have it yet and no computer model is available until somebody models the new components. I see in the plans two motors, each one for a pair of wheels. Swapping one set of gears only wouldn't make wheels rotating at different speeds?
Hi Racingbrick
Thanks for the very cool videos.
I will build this model this weekend, I've already ordered the extra 4 16t gears...
I have read few times this tutorial but I'm not 100% sure if I understood all of it... Sorry to be a pain... Am I correct if I say that to achieve the stage 2 upgrade (the best and more fun one), all I have to do is execute the 5 min upgrade, then replace the 4 remaining gears with the 16t?
Best regards.
RacingBrick please answer my question.. = is this stage 2 mod just about replacing the 12 tooth and 20 tooth on both front and back with a total of four 16 tooth gears? is that all?
You swap one set of 12T/20T gears front and rear, and you replace the other set of 12T/20T gears with 4 16T gears. That's it.
@@RacingBrick (sorry if i might sound annoying..) so wait, other set? (i havent got 42099 yet so im kinda confused), so the 4, 16T is in one part of the viechle and the 12T 20T is swapped in another side of the set? (That all these total 8 gears in same set same time?)
@@sitsia3808 the front and the rear axles both have 2-2 set of 12T/20T gears originally. Altogether 4 12T and 4 20T. You can either swap them (instead of gearing up it will gear down) or replace a pair of them with two 16Ts, but since you need to do this for both axles you'll need 4 16Ts.
Yes
Is the Speed the same? Or is it just more powerful?
The speed is decreased significantly, you cannot have more power without reducing speed
@@RacingBrick ok
Nice!
Was that with locked diffs?
Which part? :)
Did the 42099 have locked diffs when climbing and that
@@lucarrrr5071 anything you see after mentioning the locked diffs in the video is with locked diffs
how fast are the versions?
i mean,kph of original,stage 1 and the super slow version you mentioned on the post
I did not measure them but it'd be difficult to compare the speed, they're pretty slow geared down. Just check the videos and you can compare.
@@RacingBrick well,I mean,I have the LED pack,and,you know,a slow car with lights isn't good,so im gonna do the stage 1 upgrade,they're the Motor(motor connected)front gear pack right? or can you send me a link to your post or tell me the steps? as you know I haven't got it assembled
@@MarcMas07 the link to my post is in the description. There're no more detailed steps, you need to have a look at the post and your instructions.
@@RacingBrick why double response tho? xD
@@RacingBrick ... no,it's not,it has got a post to the powered up thing
I buy this 16 tooth gears at bricklink?
You can buy there or I think in every shop where you can get LEGO pieces, it's very common.
Hi, Can you confirm if you need to buy 4 x 16t 94925. Would this lead to more speed? If not do you have a suggestion to what would?
With those gears you would make it slower. Without changing the structure you can't make the car faster beacuse there's no space to swap the gears e.g. for a 8t-24t combination. But I would not recommend to make it faster, this is supposed to be an off-road car and in the stock configuration the climbing abilities are already limited. If you make it faster it won't even be able to climb a 1x1 brick.
RacingBrick, thanks for that. I would buy 4 x 16t 94925 for when I want more power. Do you know what gear ratio would make it go faster? We could live with fact it can’t climb one Lego brick if in fast mode.
@@sibiu1 the one that I mentioned previously - 8t-24t. But the 24t gear does not fit in a 3 stud wide space that's why you need to make structural changes to use that.
Ok thanks
If I replaced only the rear gears for 16 tons and first leave the original settings will have the model and enough power and speed? And will it be 1 to 1 or need to be exchanged first for 16t? Thanks
having a different gearing for the front and the rear axles is not a good idea. Check the gearings available in this post and choose what is best for you - racingbrick.com/2019/08/lego-technic-42099-4x4-x-treme-off-roader-stage-2-upgrade-even-more-power-with-only-4-extra-gears/
@@RacingBrick
I thought if I had 20 and 12 gears in front of the wheels and 2 x 16T at the back would be a problem? need to have both front and back 2 x 16 T? I want it to have speed but also some strength
or stay inside at 2 x 16 and back gears at degrees at 20 and 12 .. so will it be okay?
@@Matej-Brick sorry, misunderstood your question. For each axle there are 2 pair of gears. Out of the two pairs for each axle it does not matter which one is changed for which, but the configuration for both axles needs to be the same. If you leave one pair of gears the original, and change the other to 2 16Ts that will have the climbing mode like here - th-cam.com/video/-vS2dYhYPmg/w-d-xo.html
If you leave one pair the original and swap the other pair that will be like the "5 minute upgrade" speed and climbing performance - th-cam.com/video/0-6Gl6AW7KI/w-d-xo.html
@@RacingBrick yes both axles have two pairs of gears on both we replace one pair of gears, speed should be quite good and power should be good right?, ak by som ale vymenil iba jeden pár povedzme zadný lahko vymenitelny bude mat model aj silu aj rychlost?,
it will be fine?
And now explain, why Lego failed to build it that way?
Because they did not want to build yet another crawler. I guess the target audience prefers speed and mediocre off-road capabilities rather than being very slow but a good crawler.
@@RacingBrick then they should have chosen another name
They've chosen not to name it "crawler". Should be good enough of a hint.
@@bubbabenali crawling is an ability needed for off-road.
Wish it had 2 gears. One for speed and one for crawling.
Naja, auf den Hügel hätte ich auch meinen Tamiya Superfighter hoch gefahren. Das bei halben Preis, mit Akku und richtiger Fernsteuerung
The upgrade didnt work for me
What did not work exactly?
RacingBrick well, i dont know exactly. The other one where you would just switch the gears worked better for my set.
Do you think there is solution to the differentials problem? Can i for example swap the differential for 12 and 24 gears instead, and eliminating gear clicking in this way?
What problem do you mean? I have no gears clicking in the differentials.
@@RacingBrick No but read in some forums and some comments that with this much torque the stress will be on the differential and the little gears inside will start to click. Add to that, because it is an open diff it won't be good for very critical situations so a "locked diff" would be much better. That is why I asked if it was possible to take out the whole diff and just put maybe two knob gears or normal gear instead, would you thin that it is a good idea?
@@christrahi16 you can try that although I don't recommend it as it will put more stress on the motor and the protection might shut it down.
@@RacingBrick Mm I see, thanks for the answers 👍
Ouw ffs i want the 9398 to be better :/
To bad then
@@sitsia3808 it still has a special place on my heart tho
@@orange1248 it does in my heart too, but 41999 more than 9398
You can replace the 12/20 gears in the portal hubs with 8/24 gears to give it more torque.