I am truly loving your book. It helped me figure out how to create a remote control car from scratch (without a kit). It has a rear differential and a gearbox that can be shifted with the remote as the car is moving! I am having so much fun with this project! When I was a kid, I was told that girls should not be interested in cars, and I was never given building toys like legos. I had no interest in dolls or playing house - that all seemed too trite (until I owned a house, haha). As an adult, I am now doing all those things I was told not to do growing up, like doing sports and building remote control cars. Power Functions are pure joy! Last Christmas I bought the Lego Christmas Train set to go around the base of my Christmas tree. It does not come electrified. So I fitted it out with Power Functions so that I could operate it by remote, and also added separately controlled lights in the engine compartment. It looks absolutely lovely under the tree! Thank you so much for this video! I had discovered most of this by trial and error, but some of this was new to me. Clearly I need to go back and read your book again! :-)
Nice. Restricting activities of a child based on gender roles like that can be damaging, I'm glad you have not fallen into the mold of a typical girl, even despite the attempts to force you in it. If you like remote controlled cars and lego, you might also be interested in drones and aircrafts. Keep doing what you love and don't let anyone criticize you for it.
Great video as always! Thank you for taking the time to share your insight. One correction to make: there is a very big difference between the “old” and “new” AA battery boxes: the “old” ones have a resettable fuse inside that turns the battery box off when it reaches about 700mA of draw, which isn’t much. This was removed with the “new” boxes, so you can run more/more powerful motors. Depending on what you are building, this can be a lifesaver!
Great tips. I knew 7 of them already, but the 3 I didn’t know are very useful. I really like the Switch tip, where you can link more motors per receiver. Plus adding lights via connecting them to motors made me realize that I can have more dynamic lighting, which I’ve been hesitant to invest in the lighting elements that lego provides. I really do like PF, but I wish they would expand on it slightly more, like back in the days of 9V, with RC motors and all. That’s really my only gripe with PF.
As an exercise of style, you can control 24 motors, 6 at time, or 64, 4 at time, or 128, 2 at time. A single motor can control two switches (let's call them A and B) mounted in such a way that when one is on the other is off. The output of this two switches is then used to power four other switches (A1, A2, B1 and B2); this four other switches can be controlled by a single motor on the second output of the IR receiver, in such a way that when A1 and B1 are on, A2 and B2 are off. The first IR output select between A and B, the second output select between 1 and 2: this way you can power 4 different bank of IR receiver, each controlling up to 6 motors. You can scale the system up, but the number of switches and cables required become ridiculous.
@@Beregorn88 Yeah you can use servos for that as the neutral position controls nothing, but you can have some tricks if you need a couple of permanantly working motors for some functions.
This is SO handy to know, this will already make the chassis of my own tank project a lot easier. Been having issues with constructing the right chassis without the motors ripping things part or for that matter trying to rip the chassis apart. Added to that, having issues with the tracks as well. Whenever it does run it pulls to one side (usually to the right with 2 separate chassis attempts)
I really think that Lego makes power functions suck on purpose. Connectors are rubbish and spare cables are unreasonably expensive just because they are proprietary to Lego. Even Chinese remotes work on RF and not om very useless IR, not to even compare it to something like buwizz or other competitors. Power functions could really be updated do 2018 instead keeping them on 90s technology (at best). And why on earth don't they offer a lithium battery box with RF functions and more than one connectors like even Chinese knockoffs do.
@@kara88bg Be sure that they will make a next version using RF and rechargeable battery box with lithium cells and recharging using a mobile phone charger (for example via USB-C port). But it is not so easy as it looks. PF are really clever design and the main problem is that new remotes should be backward compatible with all they did so far.
Awesome video! This is a great idea for a series by the way, taking snippets from your book. You already have the ideas and reference material, just a matter of making the videos! Great work as always
I've had the train stuff as my first electrical pice recently got the "normal" stuff lol looking forward although I've had a power functions box for a while, great to use in tanks!
Cool! You have all the 9v motors, including the standard RCX motors, the transparent gearbox motors, the good old 9v TURBO MOTORS that run at lightspeed compared with the others, and the infamous (and super rare) mini motors!
Hi, great vid learned alot! I'm building my own thropy truck it's 21 cm wide and 50 cm long, it's driven by one servo motor and two L motors but I wan't it to have a fun speed, will a buwizz 2.0 unit do the trick? The buggy motors are a bit to expensive for me...
I got your book about a month ago after a strong recommendation for it on JK Brickworks' website, and already it has made me realise that there are trillions of different things you can make with those beams and pins alone. I've already made a steered suspension system, a three speed transmission, an AT-TE from star wars using a Hoekens Linkadge (inspiration by the one made by JK Brickworks) and I'm currently building a 32 stud long tank with a longitudinal subtractor and torsion bar suspension. Honestly I don't think I've been as interested in a reference kind of book in my life! My main struggle with making the models is putting the mechanisms together on a chassis, because I am terrible at scaling models even after reading through the entirety of part five, two or three times. I always seem to subconsciously make my models way to small because I take forever to find the pieces in my Lego box (I unfortunately don't have a big cabinet of plastic drawers to sort my pieces into, sigh). Also, I am dreadful at making my models look good because it doesn't require as much problem solving as creating mechanisms and so I end up making it either too large, too small or I just have parts like say, a mudguard where the door should be, and having a very odd looking vehicle that works is not as visually appealing as having a brilliant looking vehicle that works how it should, even if it is very satisfying to make a steered and suspended RWD car that I can control easily with a remote control. Your book is brilliant and has taught me so much such as different concepts and interesting solutions to problems I would of got before I read it.:-)
12:30 a differential might be an even better solution because if one motor is slower than the other one it makes the slower one rotating faster than it does itsself. So better do it as it's shown at 12:33 for the three different types. (My opinion/solution)
On Number 6, I had a remote control LEGO Excavator that achieved the same tasks but with a complex system and only 2 motors. You could drive the excavator as much as you wanted and turn the body. But flip the 4th switch and you now have the ability to control the arms (this was with 2 motors but same concept)
My 20 years old black 9V cables are in terrible condition. Have you got any good source or cable specification what I could use to change the old wires?
@Sariel's LEGO® Workshop at 11:32 you make a point abaut AA batteries and AAA batteries but the text in the box mention AA 2 times insted of AAA 1 time and AA 1 time
Is there a reason for using two separate outputs with two motors for the multi-motor setup? I thought you'd use a single motor whose output is coupled to two switches via two clutch gears so that one output can control two sets of motors. Like, receiver 1, blue channel forward -> switch A activates and thus receivers 2A-4A. Then by sending receiver 1, blue channel back, switch A deactivates and B activates, powering receivers 2B-4B. The same could be done with the red channel as well.
You're the best Sariel :). I love your channel and u inspiratex me into making my own lego MB 540k spezial roadster. Keel it up you're really talented!
Oh and Sariel, sorry if im asking to much. Do you want photos of my MB when its done? I want to know what you think of it and what i could do better. I designed and made it all by myself. Except for the steering wheel thats from your model. Cheers :)
Sometimes when I connect extension wire with IR reciever and motor and turn on the battery it drives instead of waiting till I controll it with remote. Do you maybe know what is the problem?
You can conduct electricity if you connect 2 motors together. Attatch a handle to one of the motors, and spin it and you'll notice that the other motor spins as well because your are conducting electric power.
I’m fairly new to Lego Technics, and I’m noticing that it’s a little tougher to connect cable pieces together than it is to place ordinary Legos on each other. Is that a regular occurrence, or do I need to check if something’s wrong?
Finally a good and decent video about this stuff, a lot of questions are answered, except two: What is the remote distance? Question number two: does the ir work outside?(in what range, a radius of 5 meters would be more than sufficient.) Thanks.
@@searme Thank you for your replay, it seemed to good to be true, taking the lego stuff and put it into the garden railway. Any idea if i may ask, what i can use then, it does not have to be fancy nor expensive, just back and forward speed controlled in 3 or four locomotives, if they lose signal and they keep on driving that would be a bonus. thanks in advance.
you are awsome! i just recently started taking up Lego again after a absences from it for almost 20 years. and was overwhelmed by all the new power functions. what should i buy how do i get ir remotes, i then stumbled on to your video and now i know everything i need to know. thanks a lot!!!! :-D
I read somewhere that the new receivers made are a combination of the V1 and the V2. Meaning you will get the best of both worlds. They just don't put a marking on them anymore, just like with the V1.
13:10 theres that giant black hamster again (twas enjoying to watch my friend, I don't play with Lego anymore but was still enjoying to watch none the less)
Hello Sariel, Since you talked about the technic control panel, I'd have added a word about RCX 2.0 and the barrecode reader, it's useful to trigger a synchronized set of functions, for example, you use a IR receiver connected to a servo to activate push sensors connected to your RCX/barrecode and let it run the sequence even with PF motors thanks to extension wires :) in my experience, I used it on a plough, to make it lift/switch side/ground in sequence with just 1 push of a button :)
you should make a note to put super glue around the motors wire base, it greatly improves the durability, i have been through several motor dew to deterioration and i hate it
The chart under "Trick 3" time 4:33 shows that L motors should not be used with "V1" controllers. I've had problems with the V1+L motor set up installed in a rail road locomotive. The engine (motor) would run for about 5 minuets and then slow down and finally stop, changing the batteries has no effect. Now I have some idea of what is going on.
Hi mate, Thanks for all your videos, very helpful. I recently got back to the Lego world now that I can pay myself for it (damn expensive). I got the last technic crane set which I am about to finish. I want to fully motorize it with IR and I am wondering if you have any cheap proposal. One way is obviously to purchase individually each piece but it is god damn expensive having anticipated I would need 2 IR + 5 M motors and one L or XL motor. I already have the 42095 set which comes. 2 M + 1 IR for basically the same price as buying only the IR and the motors individually. Pheew long story short do you have any trick or recommendation to maximize the pieces for money? For instance buying specific sets even old to collect power functions at a cheap price? Or at least coming with other Lego. No way I can afford Biwizz or alikes. Thanks for feedback and sorry for the lenghty comment
Dawno temu obejrzałem ten film. Dzisiaj, dzięki niemu, uratowałem całą konstrukcję swojego Cromwella. Nie muszę nic przerabiać, bo pierwszy PF IR posłużył za przedluzke dla drugiego 🤗 Dzieki piekne!
HELLO, Nice video, I have 2 power function L and a IR reciever. I want coopling 2 motor on same axes , it's better to plug them on the same output ? or one on red and one blue ? For the best perf.
@@searme Thanks for your quick reply The IR reciever is from the 42095 stun racer It's seem to be a V1 so it better to use red an blue output to combine ?
I now use AAA battery boxes in my models. And i understand what you mean. After you changed the batteries its fast for a while but slows down very quickly. Im thinking about buying a rechargeable one. But i don't have alot of money and i also need to order some bricks to finish my current model. Should i still save up for the rechargeable one? Or ask it for my birthday or christmas ect.
Since christmas is not to far away I would ask it for christmas, but also save money in case you don't get it, it is better to have too much money, than too little.
The only lego set with power functions I own is the 9398 set which I find pretty cool also I wanted other sets but could not afford it yet so I’m stuck with the better receiver :D
How about using multiple battery packs? Can you run twice the voltage to a pair of motors? ie 14.4v or 18v to a single motor, are the receiver controllers and motors able to take the higher voltage and do the cables actually mean linking multiple battery packs that there run in parallel or series?
I am truly loving your book. It helped me figure out how to create a remote control car from scratch (without a kit). It has a rear differential and a gearbox that can be shifted with the remote as the car is moving! I am having so much fun with this project!
When I was a kid, I was told that girls should not be interested in cars, and I was never given building toys like legos. I had no interest in dolls or playing house - that all seemed too trite (until I owned a house, haha). As an adult, I am now doing all those things I was told not to do growing up, like doing sports and building remote control cars.
Power Functions are pure joy!
Last Christmas I bought the Lego Christmas Train set to go around the base of my Christmas tree. It does not come electrified. So I fitted it out with Power Functions so that I could operate it by remote, and also added separately controlled lights in the engine compartment. It looks absolutely lovely under the tree!
Thank you so much for this video! I had discovered most of this by trial and error, but some of this was new to me. Clearly I need to go back and read your book again! :-)
I tried to do the same
Nice. Restricting activities of a child based on gender roles like that can be damaging, I'm glad you have not fallen into the mold of a typical girl, even despite the attempts to force you in it. If you like remote controlled cars and lego, you might also be interested in drones and aircrafts. Keep doing what you love and don't let anyone criticize you for it.
Do you have the second version or the first version I have the second version
Where can I find the book
@@PP-rl5sn In the description.
U.S. soldier deployed and I'm getting some power functions and other pieces to do a build off with a fellow soldier. Such great insight here!
Thank you Sariel for the useful information! Your contribution to the Lego Technic community is large and I would like to thank you for your efforts!
Thanks!
@@searme You're from Poland?
DANG I didn’t know a hamster was a type of power function motor. Good to know!
XD Lol
Hamster: I know how to escape and harness power from batteries
DiodeGoneWild's cat: *Hold my teeth and claws to scratch out your electronics*
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hamster wheel!
Just stick it on its wheel it probably power any model😂😂😂😂😂
I was skeptical but then I watched it. I DID need to know these tricks! Great stuff!
Great video as always! Thank you for taking the time to share your insight. One correction to make: there is a very big difference between the “old” and “new” AA battery boxes: the “old” ones have a resettable fuse inside that turns the battery box off when it reaches about 700mA of draw, which isn’t much. This was removed with the “new” boxes, so you can run more/more powerful motors. Depending on what you are building, this can be a lifesaver!
Great tips.
I knew 7 of them already, but the 3 I didn’t know are very useful. I really like the Switch tip, where you can link more motors per receiver. Plus adding lights via connecting them to motors made me realize that I can have more dynamic lighting, which I’ve been hesitant to invest in the lighting elements that lego provides.
I really do like PF, but I wish they would expand on it slightly more, like back in the days of 9V, with RC motors and all. That’s really my only gripe with PF.
As an exercise of style, you can control 24 motors, 6 at time, or 64, 4 at time, or 128, 2 at time. A single motor can control two switches (let's call them A and B) mounted in such a way that when one is on the other is off. The output of this two switches is then used to power four other switches (A1, A2, B1 and B2); this four other switches can be controlled by a single motor on the second output of the IR receiver, in such a way that when A1 and B1 are on, A2 and B2 are off. The first IR output select between A and B, the second output select between 1 and 2: this way you can power 4 different bank of IR receiver, each controlling up to 6 motors. You can scale the system up, but the number of switches and cables required become ridiculous.
@@Beregorn88 Yeah you can use servos for that as the neutral position controls nothing, but you can have some tricks if you need a couple of permanantly working motors for some functions.
This is SO handy to know, this will already make the chassis of my own tank project a lot easier. Been having issues with constructing the right chassis without the motors ripping things part or for that matter trying to rip the chassis apart. Added to that, having issues with the tracks as well. Whenever it does run it pulls to one side (usually to the right with 2 separate chassis attempts)
I found that quite useful!
I really think that Lego makes power functions suck on purpose. Connectors are rubbish and spare cables are unreasonably expensive just because they are proprietary to Lego. Even Chinese remotes work on RF and not om very useless IR, not to even compare it to something like buwizz or other competitors. Power functions could really be updated do 2018 instead keeping them on 90s technology (at best). And why on earth don't they offer a lithium battery box with RF functions and more than one connectors like even Chinese knockoffs do.
@@kara88bg Be sure that they will make a next version using RF and rechargeable battery box with lithium cells and recharging using a mobile phone charger (for example via USB-C port). But it is not so easy as it looks. PF are really clever design and the main problem is that new remotes should be backward compatible with all they did so far.
wery useful!
Awesome video! This is a great idea for a series by the way, taking snippets from your book. You already have the ideas and reference material, just a matter of making the videos! Great work as always
I've had the train stuff as my first electrical pice recently got the "normal" stuff lol looking forward although I've had a power functions box for a while, great to use in tanks!
Perfect video!! This change all of my tries in lego technic builds.
This is actually the least click-bait video of its type, and its amazing. Maybe i should actually start saving up for power functions...
Cool! You have all the 9v motors, including the standard RCX motors, the transparent gearbox motors, the good old 9v TURBO MOTORS that run at lightspeed compared with the others, and the infamous (and super rare) mini motors!
Incredibly useful Video, thanks a lot!
when 9398 came out, i bought every v2 receiver i could find on ebay from those who parted them out as well as their servo motors. pure gold.
Fantastic video Sariel! Thanks for all of your hard work.
Wow! Thank you for making this video!
Wow. Thank you for making this video. It's awesome.
Thank you, this will seriously help me with my next project!
the professional hamster may be dead but he will be forever in our hearts.
I've watched this alot of times!
I didn't know the differences between the normal and V2 IR receivers. Makes me a wee bit more glad I got the 4x4 Crawler as a kid!
Its very useful. I like the combine of the receivers can operate more motors.
Thanks a lot for this vid. It helped me with this working car I'm currently working on.
Amazing content as always. Keep up the good work!
This is so smart thank you man.
Very good and useful,i was thinking about building my own mechanism!
Great video. Very helpful. Im never switching to powered up!
I have the V2 receiver, i didn't even realise it was rare, i got that exact set for Christmas like 4 years ago
Thanks for your service! :)
Thanks for the tricks, they were really useful! 👍Please do a video like this for control +
Hi, great vid learned alot! I'm building my own thropy truck it's 21 cm wide and 50 cm long, it's driven by one servo motor and two L motors but I wan't it to have a fun speed, will a buwizz 2.0 unit do the trick? The buggy motors are a bit to expensive for me...
Really good tips for lego technic
Wow that's was actually really helpful thanks!
As always, compulsory and entertaining videos 😁
The extension cables helped me make a dual-power locomotive that can draw power from track and batteries.
I wish lego would made PF micro motors and solenoids ...
but apparently they are moving towards a new system ...
yeah, it's been a while since we've had a motor smaller than "medium".
Julianno Jungle dude that comment was made a while ago, so it’s done already. Although power functions are the best
thank you very much! i learned a lot from this video!
The idea of letting motors work together with a differential is interesting!
Oh. Wow, Poland. Thank you for the tricks
I got your book about a month ago after a strong recommendation for it on JK Brickworks' website, and already it has made me realise that there are trillions of different things you can make with those beams and pins alone. I've already made a steered suspension system, a three speed transmission, an AT-TE from star wars using a Hoekens Linkadge (inspiration by the one made by JK Brickworks) and I'm currently building a 32 stud long tank with a longitudinal subtractor and torsion bar suspension. Honestly I don't think I've been as interested in a reference kind of book in my life!
My main struggle with making the models is putting the mechanisms together on a chassis, because I am terrible at scaling models even after reading through the entirety of part five, two or three times. I always seem to subconsciously make my models way to small because I take forever to find the pieces in my Lego box (I unfortunately don't have a big cabinet of plastic drawers to sort my pieces into, sigh). Also, I am dreadful at making my models look good because it doesn't require as much problem solving as creating mechanisms and so I end up making it either too large, too small or I just have parts like say, a mudguard where the door should be, and having a very odd looking vehicle that works is not as visually appealing as having a brilliant looking vehicle that works how it should, even if it is very satisfying to make a steered and suspended RWD car that I can control easily with a remote control.
Your book is brilliant and has taught me so much such as different concepts and interesting solutions to problems I would of got before I read it.:-)
11:29 is it should be "AAA batteries” but not “AA batteries” in the subtitle? (Sorry bad English)
0:10
That motor can talk!
AwsomeRace Minecraft lets just ignore about that hamster
Yes it helps ! thanks
12:30 a differential might be an even better solution because if one motor is slower than the other one it makes the slower one rotating faster than it does itsself.
So better do it as it's shown at 12:33 for the three different types.
(My opinion/solution)
Very interesting, thanks a lot for the video
This is going to help a bunch
On Number 6, I had a remote control LEGO Excavator that achieved the same tasks but with a complex system and only 2 motors. You could drive the excavator as much as you wanted and turn the body. But flip the 4th switch and you now have the ability to control the arms (this was with 2 motors but same concept)
Helpful, as always
Very usefull like Sheepo's one! Thank you Pawel!
I enjoyed looking this video. Thumb up!
I wish for buggy motor to be brought back on production line; It just so good
My 20 years old black 9V cables are in terrible condition. Have you got any good source or cable specification what I could use to change the old wires?
I actually own your first Unofficial LEGO technic builder’s guide book! I is sooo cool I can’t stop re-reading it!
:D
I have one of These V2s. I have that Monster Truck. I got it to my 8th birthday. Its an awesome set!
@Sariel's LEGO® Workshop
at 11:32 you make a point abaut AA batteries and AAA batteries but the text in the box mention AA 2 times insted of AAA 1 time and AA 1 time
V1 and V2
nice played
Is there a reason for using two separate outputs with two motors for the multi-motor setup? I thought you'd use a single motor whose output is coupled to two switches via two clutch gears so that one output can control two sets of motors. Like, receiver 1, blue channel forward -> switch A activates and thus receivers 2A-4A. Then by sending receiver 1, blue channel back, switch A deactivates and B activates, powering receivers 2B-4B. The same could be done with the red channel as well.
You're the best Sariel :). I love your channel and u inspiratex me into making my own lego MB 540k spezial roadster. Keel it up you're really talented!
Sorry for my grammar im not good with small smartphone keyboards
Oh and Sariel, sorry if im asking to much. Do you want photos of my MB when its done? I want to know what you think of it and what i could do better. I designed and made it all by myself. Except for the steering wheel thats from your model. Cheers :)
I need that technic control center stuff 😯sadly its sold out ,retired product
Sometimes when I connect extension wire with IR reciever and motor and turn on the battery it drives instead of waiting till I controll it with remote. Do you maybe know what is the problem?
i guess the motor is connected to the continuous supply pins on the remote, and not the controlled outputs
@@bolvariattila4678 oh ok
very nice work as usual :)
Today is my birthday and i got one of these! Thanks for the help🙂
DerEditor i got the one with lights, motor, switch and the battery box
DerEditor I dont know the Name of the set but i think its the Motor set is it?
Thank you)
You can conduct electricity if you connect 2 motors together. Attatch a handle to one of the motors, and spin it and you'll notice that the other motor spins as well because your are conducting electric power.
The Hamster is so cuuuttee🐹
I’m fairly new to Lego Technics, and I’m noticing that it’s a little tougher to connect cable pieces together than it is to place ordinary Legos on each other. Is that a regular occurrence, or do I need to check if something’s wrong?
It's intentional.
@@searme Alright. Thank you!
@Sariel
What to buy AD 2021 ?
Invest in Power Function or just buy Liebherr to have all the motors you need ?
42114 and 42124 are good Control+ starter sets too, and cheaper than Liebherr.
You could buy lego 42095 for the power functions
I have your book and I love it
another thing with the train remote is that you can precisely control the angle of a servo motor with it
Very useful. How about some tips on the servo?
since Lego vent through the trouble of making the "Train bat box" Rechargeable. What was so hard about putting two bin holes ether side on it?
Finally a good and decent video about this stuff, a lot of questions are answered, except two: What is the remote distance? Question number two: does the ir work outside?(in what range, a radius of 5 meters would be more than sufficient.)
Thanks.
The remote distance is a joke and if it's sunny outside, you probably won't even get 1 meter. IR is a terrible technology for remotes.
@@searme Thank you for your replay, it seemed to good to be true, taking the lego stuff and put it into the garden railway. Any idea if i may ask, what i can use then, it does not have to be fancy nor expensive, just back and forward speed controlled in 3 or four locomotives, if they lose signal and they keep on driving that would be a bonus. thanks in advance.
you are awsome!
i just recently started taking up Lego again after a absences from it for almost 20 years. and was overwhelmed by all the new power functions. what should i buy how do i get ir remotes,
i then stumbled on to your video and
now i know everything i need to know.
thanks a lot!!!! :-D
Thanks. You can learn much, much more about modern LEGO from my book: www.amazon.com/Unofficial-LEGO-Technic-Builders-Guide/dp/1593277601
I read somewhere that the new receivers made are a combination of the V1 and the V2. Meaning you will get the best of both worlds. They just don't put a marking on them anymore, just like with the V1.
(Late comment) This would make sense, since the 42095 set is 2xL but not a v2 reciever!
I'm waiting on the king tiger model now lol
Przydatne. Dzięki. Do zasilania Lego super nadaje się BuWizz w połączeniu z PF można tworzyć :)
I have the v2 receiver and I didn't even know. Nice
13:10 theres that giant black hamster again (twas enjoying to watch my friend, I don't play with Lego anymore but was still enjoying to watch none the less)
Thanks
9:30 I want this so much!
This is still better than powered up
Hello Sariel,
Since you talked about the technic control panel, I'd have added a word about RCX 2.0 and the barrecode reader, it's useful to trigger a synchronized set of functions, for example, you use a IR receiver connected to a servo to activate push sensors connected to your RCX/barrecode and let it run the sequence even with PF motors thanks to extension wires :) in my experience, I used it on a plough, to make it lift/switch side/ground in sequence with just 1 push of a button :)
There's like 5 people in the whole world who still own either of these in a working condition :) I never even had either in my hands.
@@searme lol then I'm one of them, 3 working RCX 2.0 and 1 barrecode, even the board is still in good condition :)
Lucky you :)
The LEGO 7939 also comes with the v2 receiver
you should make a note to put super glue around the motors wire base, it greatly improves the durability, i have been through several motor dew to deterioration and i hate it
The chart under "Trick 3" time 4:33 shows that L motors should not be used with "V1" controllers. I've had problems with the V1+L motor set up installed in a rail road locomotive. The engine (motor) would run for about 5 minuets and then slow down and finally stop, changing the batteries has no effect. Now I have some idea of what is going on.
You sure have many of those motors. I only have one of those black older ones. I still enjoyed this video all though I am not that great of a builder.
some lego stores (at least mine) have individual pf parts behind the counter to purchase as well.
Hi mate,
Thanks for all your videos, very helpful.
I recently got back to the Lego world now that I can pay myself for it (damn expensive).
I got the last technic crane set which I am about to finish. I want to fully motorize it with IR and I am wondering if you have any cheap proposal.
One way is obviously to purchase individually each piece but it is god damn expensive having anticipated I would need 2 IR + 5 M motors and one L or XL motor.
I already have the 42095 set which comes. 2 M + 1 IR for basically the same price as buying only the IR and the motors individually.
Pheew long story short do you have any trick or recommendation to maximize the pieces for money? For instance buying specific sets even old to collect power functions at a cheap price? Or at least coming with other Lego.
No way I can afford Biwizz or alikes.
Thanks for feedback and sorry for the lenghty comment
Using Bricklink to buy just the pieces you need?
Dawno temu obejrzałem ten film. Dzisiaj, dzięki niemu, uratowałem całą konstrukcję swojego Cromwella. Nie muszę nic przerabiać, bo pierwszy PF IR posłużył za przedluzke dla drugiego 🤗
Dzieki piekne!
Bardzo proszę :)
Hey Sariel,I am planning to buy some PF elements,Do the L and M motors work well with the V1 reciever?
PF M motors do. Everything else works better with V2.
@@searme Thanks!
Zarombisty pomysł na taki odcinek !! Może zrób serie np 10 mechanizmów z różnymi silnikami
Zrobiłem coś lepszego: www.ceneo.pl/61628672
No nic tylko do kompa zasiadam i kopuje!!!
Nice!
How many battery boxes can you use with 12/16 motors? What are some typical situations when one needs to use this many motors?
Complex models, and you'll need at least 1 power supply per 4 motors.
@@searme, probably more if rechargeable batteries are used.
Thank you for your reply!
The lego technic old Controller still works in your mocs ? Ex: jeep trailcat or other moc?
Sure, why wouldn't it?
HELLO, Nice video, I have 2 power function L and a IR reciever. I want coopling 2 motor on same axes , it's better to plug them on the same output ? or one on red and one blue ? For the best perf.
On the same output only if it's a V2 IR receiver.
@@searme Thanks for your quick reply The IR reciever is from the 42095 stun racer It's seem to be a V1 so it better to use red an blue output to combine ?
Yes.
I now use AAA battery boxes in my models. And i understand what you mean. After you changed the batteries its fast for a while but slows down very quickly. Im thinking about buying a rechargeable one. But i don't have alot of money and i also need to order some bricks to finish my current model. Should i still save up for the rechargeable one? Or ask it for my birthday or christmas ect.
Try BuWizz, had same problem
Bought 2 of them cost me ~300€ but was worth every cent!
Since christmas is not to far away I would ask it for christmas, but also save money in case you don't get it, it is better to have too much money, than too little.
The only lego set with power functions I own is the 9398 set which I find pretty cool also I wanted other sets but could not afford it yet so I’m stuck with the better receiver :D
Any tips on finding Power Functions elements for a little cheaper than what they’re typically offered at?
How about using multiple battery packs? Can you run twice the voltage to a pair of motors? ie 14.4v or 18v to a single motor, are the receiver controllers and motors able to take the higher voltage and do the cables actually mean linking multiple battery packs that there run in parallel or series?
If you want to burn your motors and cables, go ahead.