I am truly loving your book. It helped me figure out how to create a remote control car from scratch (without a kit). It has a rear differential and a gearbox that can be shifted with the remote as the car is moving! I am having so much fun with this project! When I was a kid, I was told that girls should not be interested in cars, and I was never given building toys like legos. I had no interest in dolls or playing house - that all seemed too trite (until I owned a house, haha). As an adult, I am now doing all those things I was told not to do growing up, like doing sports and building remote control cars. Power Functions are pure joy! Last Christmas I bought the Lego Christmas Train set to go around the base of my Christmas tree. It does not come electrified. So I fitted it out with Power Functions so that I could operate it by remote, and also added separately controlled lights in the engine compartment. It looks absolutely lovely under the tree! Thank you so much for this video! I had discovered most of this by trial and error, but some of this was new to me. Clearly I need to go back and read your book again! :-)
Nice. Restricting activities of a child based on gender roles like that can be damaging, I'm glad you have not fallen into the mold of a typical girl, even despite the attempts to force you in it. If you like remote controlled cars and lego, you might also be interested in drones and aircrafts. Keep doing what you love and don't let anyone criticize you for it.
Great tips. I knew 7 of them already, but the 3 I didn’t know are very useful. I really like the Switch tip, where you can link more motors per receiver. Plus adding lights via connecting them to motors made me realize that I can have more dynamic lighting, which I’ve been hesitant to invest in the lighting elements that lego provides. I really do like PF, but I wish they would expand on it slightly more, like back in the days of 9V, with RC motors and all. That’s really my only gripe with PF.
As an exercise of style, you can control 24 motors, 6 at time, or 64, 4 at time, or 128, 2 at time. A single motor can control two switches (let's call them A and B) mounted in such a way that when one is on the other is off. The output of this two switches is then used to power four other switches (A1, A2, B1 and B2); this four other switches can be controlled by a single motor on the second output of the IR receiver, in such a way that when A1 and B1 are on, A2 and B2 are off. The first IR output select between A and B, the second output select between 1 and 2: this way you can power 4 different bank of IR receiver, each controlling up to 6 motors. You can scale the system up, but the number of switches and cables required become ridiculous.
@@Beregorn88 Yeah you can use servos for that as the neutral position controls nothing, but you can have some tricks if you need a couple of permanantly working motors for some functions.
Great video as always! Thank you for taking the time to share your insight. One correction to make: there is a very big difference between the “old” and “new” AA battery boxes: the “old” ones have a resettable fuse inside that turns the battery box off when it reaches about 700mA of draw, which isn’t much. This was removed with the “new” boxes, so you can run more/more powerful motors. Depending on what you are building, this can be a lifesaver!
This is SO handy to know, this will already make the chassis of my own tank project a lot easier. Been having issues with constructing the right chassis without the motors ripping things part or for that matter trying to rip the chassis apart. Added to that, having issues with the tracks as well. Whenever it does run it pulls to one side (usually to the right with 2 separate chassis attempts)
I really think that Lego makes power functions suck on purpose. Connectors are rubbish and spare cables are unreasonably expensive just because they are proprietary to Lego. Even Chinese remotes work on RF and not om very useless IR, not to even compare it to something like buwizz or other competitors. Power functions could really be updated do 2018 instead keeping them on 90s technology (at best). And why on earth don't they offer a lithium battery box with RF functions and more than one connectors like even Chinese knockoffs do.
@@kara88bg Be sure that they will make a next version using RF and rechargeable battery box with lithium cells and recharging using a mobile phone charger (for example via USB-C port). But it is not so easy as it looks. PF are really clever design and the main problem is that new remotes should be backward compatible with all they did so far.
Cool! You have all the 9v motors, including the standard RCX motors, the transparent gearbox motors, the good old 9v TURBO MOTORS that run at lightspeed compared with the others, and the infamous (and super rare) mini motors!
I've had the train stuff as my first electrical pice recently got the "normal" stuff lol looking forward although I've had a power functions box for a while, great to use in tanks!
I was really excited to see the idea at 9:00 where the IR receivers are turned off using the polarity switch. In my experience the switch only turns off the control wires (the inner pair) while the 9 volt supply (outer pair) remains constant, so the IR receivers would stay on no matter the position of the switch (I've tested this so I know I'm not crazy). Was there another version of the PF polarity switch? I can't think of any other way to wire it differently with the given components.
@@searme That's actually what I'm going to do. In order to power the IR receivers from a 9v cable you either have to have an empty PF battery box in the chain (to connect the inner and outer pairs electrically) or use a custom adapter (what I've done). I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some piece of information before I shared the information. The idea of turning off PF IR receivers actually solves a huge problem for me, so thanks for the idea!
@Sariel's LEGO® Workshop at 11:32 you make a point abaut AA batteries and AAA batteries but the text in the box mention AA 2 times insted of AAA 1 time and AA 1 time
Awesome video! This is a great idea for a series by the way, taking snippets from your book. You already have the ideas and reference material, just a matter of making the videos! Great work as always
Excellent video! So much better than the other ASMR video I just watched where the title peomised I should watch the video if I'm new to Lego Technic motors, but it explained none of the context. Your video gave me so much valuable info. Let me buy you a coffee! By the way, 9:53 - the x axis is NOT capacity. It is time, or perhaps could be interpreted as inverse capacity. If it were capacity, then it shows voltage goes to 0 at max capacity (100%), and voltage is maximum when the batteries are at 0 percent capacity.
I read somewhere that the new receivers made are a combination of the V1 and the V2. Meaning you will get the best of both worlds. They just don't put a marking on them anymore, just like with the V1.
Sometimes when I connect extension wire with IR reciever and motor and turn on the battery it drives instead of waiting till I controll it with remote. Do you maybe know what is the problem?
12:30 a differential might be an even better solution because if one motor is slower than the other one it makes the slower one rotating faster than it does itsself. So better do it as it's shown at 12:33 for the three different types. (My opinion/solution)
I did not know about the different standard PF battery boxes. Do they have a protection circuit inside? What If I hack a 7th 1.2v rechargeable cell into the circuit of 6? That would give me 9.1 up from 7.8 from fully charged cells that supply 1.3v when freshly charged.
its really sad that lego discontinued power functions and i made the mistake of selling my pf stuff for powered up trash.i regret that decison so much.
I got your book about a month ago after a strong recommendation for it on JK Brickworks' website, and already it has made me realise that there are trillions of different things you can make with those beams and pins alone. I've already made a steered suspension system, a three speed transmission, an AT-TE from star wars using a Hoekens Linkadge (inspiration by the one made by JK Brickworks) and I'm currently building a 32 stud long tank with a longitudinal subtractor and torsion bar suspension. Honestly I don't think I've been as interested in a reference kind of book in my life! My main struggle with making the models is putting the mechanisms together on a chassis, because I am terrible at scaling models even after reading through the entirety of part five, two or three times. I always seem to subconsciously make my models way to small because I take forever to find the pieces in my Lego box (I unfortunately don't have a big cabinet of plastic drawers to sort my pieces into, sigh). Also, I am dreadful at making my models look good because it doesn't require as much problem solving as creating mechanisms and so I end up making it either too large, too small or I just have parts like say, a mudguard where the door should be, and having a very odd looking vehicle that works is not as visually appealing as having a brilliant looking vehicle that works how it should, even if it is very satisfying to make a steered and suspended RWD car that I can control easily with a remote control. Your book is brilliant and has taught me so much such as different concepts and interesting solutions to problems I would of got before I read it.:-)
could you explain why you connected multiple motor types with differentials and what did u gain. It wasnt clear where from the power is supplied. Also why did you connected one motor to other.
To sum up their torque, obviously. And the differential evens up differences in speed between them. Sounds like you could use my book about mechanics with LEGO: www.amazon.com/Unofficial-LEGO-Technic-Builders-Guide/dp/1593277601
Finally a good and decent video about this stuff, a lot of questions are answered, except two: What is the remote distance? Question number two: does the ir work outside?(in what range, a radius of 5 meters would be more than sufficient.) Thanks.
@@searme Thank you for your replay, it seemed to good to be true, taking the lego stuff and put it into the garden railway. Any idea if i may ask, what i can use then, it does not have to be fancy nor expensive, just back and forward speed controlled in 3 or four locomotives, if they lose signal and they keep on driving that would be a bonus. thanks in advance.
couldn't you get a longer shaft to stick through two switches facing opposite directions to toggle betwen motor subsets using only half the control chanels (and motors)?
@sariel I'm quite new at it and can't decide which battery box is better to buy , can you tell me which : the AAA with normal block attachments or the other one " technic attachments"?
On Number 6, I had a remote control LEGO Excavator that achieved the same tasks but with a complex system and only 2 motors. You could drive the excavator as much as you wanted and turn the body. But flip the 4th switch and you now have the ability to control the arms (this was with 2 motors but same concept)
My 20 years old black 9V cables are in terrible condition. Have you got any good source or cable specification what I could use to change the old wires?
You can conduct electricity if you connect 2 motors together. Attatch a handle to one of the motors, and spin it and you'll notice that the other motor spins as well because your are conducting electric power.
Certain Chinese manufacturers offer compatible systems that look almost identical and are much cheaper. For example CaDA or Mould King. CaDA also has a 4-channel RC controlled (2.4 GHz) system, i.e. it's not using IR and the receiver is in the battery pack - which is rechargable using USB.
Hello, I would like to build a car with the same dimensions than your big tank, could you please tell me how much receivers and battery boxes you used in your model to have a good power from the four XL motors ? Thank you in advance.
Ok, thank you. I will have to stress them, so I will follow this limit. I have another question then : in your video you say that it's reasonable to use up to two XL motors for one IR receiver, but is it also reasonable to use two XL motors on the same output of this receiver ? I will buy a V2 receiver if it's necessary, but will my two XL motors have all the power they need in this case (if we suppose that they will be stressed a lot) ?
The chart under "Trick 3" time 4:33 shows that L motors should not be used with "V1" controllers. I've had problems with the V1+L motor set up installed in a rail road locomotive. The engine (motor) would run for about 5 minuets and then slow down and finally stop, changing the batteries has no effect. Now I have some idea of what is going on.
How about using multiple battery packs? Can you run twice the voltage to a pair of motors? ie 14.4v or 18v to a single motor, are the receiver controllers and motors able to take the higher voltage and do the cables actually mean linking multiple battery packs that there run in parallel or series?
HELLO, Nice video, I have 2 power function L and a IR reciever. I want coopling 2 motor on same axes , it's better to plug them on the same output ? or one on red and one blue ? For the best perf.
@@searme Thanks for your quick reply The IR reciever is from the 42095 stun racer It's seem to be a V1 so it better to use red an blue output to combine ?
So wait, number two means I can run modern Power Functions using the Technic Interface A, and program them using an Apple II or early IBM PC under LEGO TC LOGO?
I got the Hub and Train connection for the Christmas Train set. It works but its way too powerful, causing the train to fall off the tracks. Is there a way to reduce the power?
@@felixt4962 It's a great parts donor for future projects, and the set itself is quite a good one too, had a lot of fun with it. Only one thing to remember, don't expect it to be fast. I believe sariel did a review on this set, check it out
you should make a note to put super glue around the motors wire base, it greatly improves the durability, i have been through several motor dew to deterioration and i hate it
Is there a reason for using two separate outputs with two motors for the multi-motor setup? I thought you'd use a single motor whose output is coupled to two switches via two clutch gears so that one output can control two sets of motors. Like, receiver 1, blue channel forward -> switch A activates and thus receivers 2A-4A. Then by sending receiver 1, blue channel back, switch A deactivates and B activates, powering receivers 2B-4B. The same could be done with the red channel as well.
13:10 theres that giant black hamster again (twas enjoying to watch my friend, I don't play with Lego anymore but was still enjoying to watch none the less)
Hello Sariel, Since you talked about the technic control panel, I'd have added a word about RCX 2.0 and the barrecode reader, it's useful to trigger a synchronized set of functions, for example, you use a IR receiver connected to a servo to activate push sensors connected to your RCX/barrecode and let it run the sequence even with PF motors thanks to extension wires :) in my experience, I used it on a plough, to make it lift/switch side/ground in sequence with just 1 push of a button :)
Sry for these amount of questiona but answer me this time plz. I haver already bought a Lego remote Control and I would like to know if it works with every IR reciver.
So. You have aa book? And the comments here tell me that the book is excellent. Seeing as after finding your channel this morning and already learning a lot, i may need to look up that book.
does anyone have any videos recorded of the e motor in action other than the one from MrAlgeorg's 15 second one? (MrAlgeorg's video was the only i could find of it so far)
I am truly loving your book. It helped me figure out how to create a remote control car from scratch (without a kit). It has a rear differential and a gearbox that can be shifted with the remote as the car is moving! I am having so much fun with this project!
When I was a kid, I was told that girls should not be interested in cars, and I was never given building toys like legos. I had no interest in dolls or playing house - that all seemed too trite (until I owned a house, haha). As an adult, I am now doing all those things I was told not to do growing up, like doing sports and building remote control cars.
Power Functions are pure joy!
Last Christmas I bought the Lego Christmas Train set to go around the base of my Christmas tree. It does not come electrified. So I fitted it out with Power Functions so that I could operate it by remote, and also added separately controlled lights in the engine compartment. It looks absolutely lovely under the tree!
Thank you so much for this video! I had discovered most of this by trial and error, but some of this was new to me. Clearly I need to go back and read your book again! :-)
I tried to do the same
Nice. Restricting activities of a child based on gender roles like that can be damaging, I'm glad you have not fallen into the mold of a typical girl, even despite the attempts to force you in it. If you like remote controlled cars and lego, you might also be interested in drones and aircrafts. Keep doing what you love and don't let anyone criticize you for it.
Do you have the second version or the first version I have the second version
Where can I find the book
@@PP-rl5sn In the description.
U.S. soldier deployed and I'm getting some power functions and other pieces to do a build off with a fellow soldier. Such great insight here!
Thank you Sariel for the useful information! Your contribution to the Lego Technic community is large and I would like to thank you for your efforts!
Thanks!
@@searme You're from Poland?
Great tips.
I knew 7 of them already, but the 3 I didn’t know are very useful. I really like the Switch tip, where you can link more motors per receiver. Plus adding lights via connecting them to motors made me realize that I can have more dynamic lighting, which I’ve been hesitant to invest in the lighting elements that lego provides.
I really do like PF, but I wish they would expand on it slightly more, like back in the days of 9V, with RC motors and all. That’s really my only gripe with PF.
As an exercise of style, you can control 24 motors, 6 at time, or 64, 4 at time, or 128, 2 at time. A single motor can control two switches (let's call them A and B) mounted in such a way that when one is on the other is off. The output of this two switches is then used to power four other switches (A1, A2, B1 and B2); this four other switches can be controlled by a single motor on the second output of the IR receiver, in such a way that when A1 and B1 are on, A2 and B2 are off. The first IR output select between A and B, the second output select between 1 and 2: this way you can power 4 different bank of IR receiver, each controlling up to 6 motors. You can scale the system up, but the number of switches and cables required become ridiculous.
@@Beregorn88 Yeah you can use servos for that as the neutral position controls nothing, but you can have some tricks if you need a couple of permanantly working motors for some functions.
Great video as always! Thank you for taking the time to share your insight. One correction to make: there is a very big difference between the “old” and “new” AA battery boxes: the “old” ones have a resettable fuse inside that turns the battery box off when it reaches about 700mA of draw, which isn’t much. This was removed with the “new” boxes, so you can run more/more powerful motors. Depending on what you are building, this can be a lifesaver!
I was skeptical but then I watched it. I DID need to know these tricks! Great stuff!
This is SO handy to know, this will already make the chassis of my own tank project a lot easier. Been having issues with constructing the right chassis without the motors ripping things part or for that matter trying to rip the chassis apart. Added to that, having issues with the tracks as well. Whenever it does run it pulls to one side (usually to the right with 2 separate chassis attempts)
when 9398 came out, i bought every v2 receiver i could find on ebay from those who parted them out as well as their servo motors. pure gold.
I wish lego would made PF micro motors and solenoids ...
but apparently they are moving towards a new system ...
yeah, it's been a while since we've had a motor smaller than "medium".
Julianno Jungle dude that comment was made a while ago, so it’s done already. Although power functions are the best
This is actually the least click-bait video of its type, and its amazing. Maybe i should actually start saving up for power functions...
I found that quite useful!
I really think that Lego makes power functions suck on purpose. Connectors are rubbish and spare cables are unreasonably expensive just because they are proprietary to Lego. Even Chinese remotes work on RF and not om very useless IR, not to even compare it to something like buwizz or other competitors. Power functions could really be updated do 2018 instead keeping them on 90s technology (at best). And why on earth don't they offer a lithium battery box with RF functions and more than one connectors like even Chinese knockoffs do.
@@kara88bg Be sure that they will make a next version using RF and rechargeable battery box with lithium cells and recharging using a mobile phone charger (for example via USB-C port). But it is not so easy as it looks. PF are really clever design and the main problem is that new remotes should be backward compatible with all they did so far.
wery useful!
DANG I didn’t know a hamster was a type of power function motor. Good to know!
XD Lol
Hamster: I know how to escape and harness power from batteries
DiodeGoneWild's cat: *Hold my teeth and claws to scratch out your electronics*
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hamster wheel!
Just stick it on its wheel it probably power any model😂😂😂😂😂
I have the V2 receiver, i didn't even realise it was rare, i got that exact set for Christmas like 4 years ago
Cool! You have all the 9v motors, including the standard RCX motors, the transparent gearbox motors, the good old 9v TURBO MOTORS that run at lightspeed compared with the others, and the infamous (and super rare) mini motors!
11:29 is it should be "AAA batteries” but not “AA batteries” in the subtitle? (Sorry bad English)
I didn't know the differences between the normal and V2 IR receivers. Makes me a wee bit more glad I got the 4x4 Crawler as a kid!
I've had the train stuff as my first electrical pice recently got the "normal" stuff lol looking forward although I've had a power functions box for a while, great to use in tanks!
I was really excited to see the idea at 9:00 where the IR receivers are turned off using the polarity switch. In my experience the switch only turns off the control wires (the inner pair) while the 9 volt supply (outer pair) remains constant, so the IR receivers would stay on no matter the position of the switch (I've tested this so I know I'm not crazy). Was there another version of the PF polarity switch? I can't think of any other way to wire it differently with the given components.
Try the old 9V switches.
@@searme That's actually what I'm going to do. In order to power the IR receivers from a 9v cable you either have to have an empty PF battery box in the chain (to connect the inner and outer pairs electrically) or use a custom adapter (what I've done). I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some piece of information before I shared the information. The idea of turning off PF IR receivers actually solves a huge problem for me, so thanks for the idea!
@@searme which old switch..?? Nr ??
another thing with the train remote is that you can precisely control the angle of a servo motor with it
Incredibly useful Video, thanks a lot!
Is it ok if i use rechargable battery for large battery box?Or is there any effect?
The voltage is different.
@@searme Good cuz my moc truck use 18,000 mah
@Sariel's LEGO® Workshop
at 11:32 you make a point abaut AA batteries and AAA batteries but the text in the box mention AA 2 times insted of AAA 1 time and AA 1 time
Awesome video! This is a great idea for a series by the way, taking snippets from your book. You already have the ideas and reference material, just a matter of making the videos! Great work as always
some lego stores (at least mine) have individual pf parts behind the counter to purchase as well.
Excellent video! So much better than the other ASMR video I just watched where the title peomised I should watch the video if I'm new to Lego Technic motors, but it explained none of the context. Your video gave me so much valuable info. Let me buy you a coffee!
By the way, 9:53 - the x axis is NOT capacity. It is time, or perhaps could be interpreted as inverse capacity. If it were capacity, then it shows voltage goes to 0 at max capacity (100%), and voltage is maximum when the batteries are at 0 percent capacity.
I read somewhere that the new receivers made are a combination of the V1 and the V2. Meaning you will get the best of both worlds. They just don't put a marking on them anymore, just like with the V1.
(Late comment) This would make sense, since the 42095 set is 2xL but not a v2 reciever!
Sometimes when I connect extension wire with IR reciever and motor and turn on the battery it drives instead of waiting till I controll it with remote. Do you maybe know what is the problem?
i guess the motor is connected to the continuous supply pins on the remote, and not the controlled outputs
@@bolvariattila4678 oh ok
Just to be sure: can you use a V1 receiver with a L motor?
Sure.
Its very useful. I like the combine of the receivers can operate more motors.
12:30 a differential might be an even better solution because if one motor is slower than the other one it makes the slower one rotating faster than it does itsself.
So better do it as it's shown at 12:33 for the three different types.
(My opinion/solution)
Very good and useful,i was thinking about building my own mechanism!
The link for the instructions regarding the controllers is missing from the video’s description, can we have it?
Thanks a lot for this vid. It helped me with this working car I'm currently working on.
Thanks for the tricks, they were really useful! 👍Please do a video like this for control +
since Lego vent through the trouble of making the "Train bat box" Rechargeable. What was so hard about putting two bin holes ether side on it?
I did not know about the different standard PF battery boxes. Do they have a protection circuit inside? What If I hack a 7th 1.2v rechargeable cell into the circuit of 6? That would give me 9.1 up from 7.8 from fully charged cells that supply 1.3v when freshly charged.
The newer battery box allegedly has no protection circuit.
The LEGO 7939 also comes with the v2 receiver
its really sad that lego discontinued power functions and i made the mistake of selling my pf stuff for powered up trash.i regret that decison so much.
I got your book about a month ago after a strong recommendation for it on JK Brickworks' website, and already it has made me realise that there are trillions of different things you can make with those beams and pins alone. I've already made a steered suspension system, a three speed transmission, an AT-TE from star wars using a Hoekens Linkadge (inspiration by the one made by JK Brickworks) and I'm currently building a 32 stud long tank with a longitudinal subtractor and torsion bar suspension. Honestly I don't think I've been as interested in a reference kind of book in my life!
My main struggle with making the models is putting the mechanisms together on a chassis, because I am terrible at scaling models even after reading through the entirety of part five, two or three times. I always seem to subconsciously make my models way to small because I take forever to find the pieces in my Lego box (I unfortunately don't have a big cabinet of plastic drawers to sort my pieces into, sigh). Also, I am dreadful at making my models look good because it doesn't require as much problem solving as creating mechanisms and so I end up making it either too large, too small or I just have parts like say, a mudguard where the door should be, and having a very odd looking vehicle that works is not as visually appealing as having a brilliant looking vehicle that works how it should, even if it is very satisfying to make a steered and suspended RWD car that I can control easily with a remote control.
Your book is brilliant and has taught me so much such as different concepts and interesting solutions to problems I would of got before I read it.:-)
12:36 Just wanted to know, if i connect the buggy motor's outer axle to an xl motor, would the universe crumble against itself?
Well, I expect that the buggy motor is going to crumble against the XL motor :)
Cool, thanks Sariel!
could you explain why you connected multiple motor types with differentials and what did u gain. It wasnt clear where from the power is supplied. Also why did you connected one motor to other.
To sum up their torque, obviously. And the differential evens up differences in speed between them. Sounds like you could use my book about mechanics with LEGO: www.amazon.com/Unofficial-LEGO-Technic-Builders-Guide/dp/1593277601
Is power funtions being canceled in 2020 bc I dont know wether it's worth buying some more if it is being canceled in 2020
It has been discontinued already.
OMG u are like one of my favourite youtubers and thank you for your response
Thanks, glad I could help.
OMG again I'm telling my friends thank you so much
Very useful tips, thank you very much!
The extension cables helped me make a dual-power locomotive that can draw power from track and batteries.
Finally a good and decent video about this stuff, a lot of questions are answered, except two: What is the remote distance? Question number two: does the ir work outside?(in what range, a radius of 5 meters would be more than sufficient.)
Thanks.
The remote distance is a joke and if it's sunny outside, you probably won't even get 1 meter. IR is a terrible technology for remotes.
@@searme Thank you for your replay, it seemed to good to be true, taking the lego stuff and put it into the garden railway. Any idea if i may ask, what i can use then, it does not have to be fancy nor expensive, just back and forward speed controlled in 3 or four locomotives, if they lose signal and they keep on driving that would be a bonus. thanks in advance.
couldn't you get a longer shaft to stick through two switches facing opposite directions to toggle betwen motor subsets using only half the control chanels (and motors)?
A shaft won't fit through two switches facing opposite directions because of the angle between them.
Couple questions
1. Can the battery packs be connected in tandem to power 2 motors?
2. What's the normal run time of two XL on the AA batt pack alone.
1. No.
2. Depends on the brand of batteries and on how much the motors are stressed.
Very useful. How about some tips on the servo?
Today is my birthday and i got one of these! Thanks for the help🙂
DerEditor i got the one with lights, motor, switch and the battery box
DerEditor I dont know the Name of the set but i think its the Motor set is it?
Thank you, this will seriously help me with my next project!
The idea of letting motors work together with a differential is interesting!
Oh. Wow, Poland. Thank you for the tricks
Is it possible to use the technic pin holes on the side of the PF remotes to say for example connect a PF remote to a PF train remote
Of course.
Where can I buy LEGO tools such as the veterinarian and the engine?
@Sariel
What to buy AD 2021 ?
Invest in Power Function or just buy Liebherr to have all the motors you need ?
42114 and 42124 are good Control+ starter sets too, and cheaper than Liebherr.
You could buy lego 42095 for the power functions
@sariel I'm quite new at it and can't decide which battery box is better to buy , can you tell me which : the AAA with normal block attachments or the other one " technic attachments"?
They're both outdated already. Lego is now using Control+ and Powered Up battery boxes.
@@searme yes but are too expensive and bettwen the just which is better?
Are you building more with studs or with pins? There's your answer.
On Number 6, I had a remote control LEGO Excavator that achieved the same tasks but with a complex system and only 2 motors. You could drive the excavator as much as you wanted and turn the body. But flip the 4th switch and you now have the ability to control the arms (this was with 2 motors but same concept)
Great tips! Where can I buy the servo motor and the battery box, if you can help
Bricklink or eBay.
My 20 years old black 9V cables are in terrible condition. Have you got any good source or cable specification what I could use to change the old wires?
You can conduct electricity if you connect 2 motors together. Attatch a handle to one of the motors, and spin it and you'll notice that the other motor spins as well because your are conducting electric power.
I have one of These V2s. I have that Monster Truck. I got it to my 8th birthday. Its an awesome set!
4:34 i wonder which receiver would be better for the pf e motor
None. PF E is a terrible motor that shouldn't be used at all.
well shoot
For the rechargeable battery can tou justnhave it plugged in all the time? E.G have an infinite power source? Or will that not work?
If not which battery box will last the longest but also make the motors go quick?
*mainlyfor a long time*
Yes, you can have it plugged all the time.
I've watched this alot of times!
Any tips on finding Power Functions elements for a little cheaper than what they’re typically offered at?
Certain Chinese manufacturers offer compatible systems that look almost identical and are much cheaper. For example CaDA or Mould King.
CaDA also has a 4-channel RC controlled (2.4 GHz) system, i.e. it's not using IR and the receiver is in the battery pack - which is rechargable using USB.
Hello, I would like to build a car with the same dimensions than your big tank, could you please tell me how much receivers and battery boxes you used in your model to have a good power from the four XL motors ? Thank you in advance.
Two PF XL motors per one battery box is a reasonable limit, but a lot depends on how much you stress the motors.
Ok, thank you. I will have to stress them, so I will follow this limit. I have another question then : in your video you say that it's reasonable to use up to two XL motors for one IR receiver, but is it also reasonable to use two XL motors on the same output of this receiver ? I will buy a V2 receiver if it's necessary, but will my two XL motors have all the power they need in this case (if we suppose that they will be stressed a lot) ?
Yes, they should be fine.
@@searme Thank you very much.
The chart under "Trick 3" time 4:33 shows that L motors should not be used with "V1" controllers. I've had problems with the V1+L motor set up installed in a rail road locomotive. The engine (motor) would run for about 5 minuets and then slow down and finally stop, changing the batteries has no effect. Now I have some idea of what is going on.
How about using multiple battery packs? Can you run twice the voltage to a pair of motors? ie 14.4v or 18v to a single motor, are the receiver controllers and motors able to take the higher voltage and do the cables actually mean linking multiple battery packs that there run in parallel or series?
If you want to burn your motors and cables, go ahead.
HELLO, Nice video, I have 2 power function L and a IR reciever. I want coopling 2 motor on same axes , it's better to plug them on the same output ? or one on red and one blue ? For the best perf.
On the same output only if it's a V2 IR receiver.
@@searme Thanks for your quick reply The IR reciever is from the 42095 stun racer It's seem to be a V1 so it better to use red an blue output to combine ?
Yes.
So wait, number two means I can run modern Power Functions using the Technic Interface A, and program them using an Apple II or early IBM PC under LEGO TC LOGO?
I got the Hub and Train connection for the Christmas Train set. It works but its way too powerful, causing the train to fall off the tracks. Is there a way to reduce the power?
You can use app instead of the remote and adjust speed on the fly.
Will these tricks work for manual motors
What's a manual motor?
A manual motors are the "cranks" witch allow you don't have motors, just cranking by hand.
Sariel its very impressive that a woman like you knows so much about mechanical functions!!
Last time I checked I was a man.
@@searme Sariel is a unisex name?? Oh my word🤦♂️🤦♂️😅
Sariel is there any way to substitute the powerbox, I didn't get one in my power functions set
You can buy one at Bricklink.
Hehe i have a v2 receiver
Same. 9398 Master race :v
@@mattszwarc2281 true me too !
@@mattszwarc2281 I am considering buying 9398 second hand off eBay - is the set worth it?
@@felixt4962 It's a great parts donor for future projects, and the set itself is quite a good one too, had a lot of fun with it. Only one thing to remember, don't expect it to be fast. I believe sariel did a review on this set, check it out
@@mattszwarc2281 thanks for your opinion - it helped a lot. =)
Perfect video!! This change all of my tries in lego technic builds.
8:08 mała pomyłka w napisach: "me" zamiast "be"
And at 11:28 one of the batteries should be called AAA
@@tomsko863 i noticed that too, just didn't point that one ouy
you should make a note to put super glue around the motors wire base, it greatly improves the durability, i have been through several motor dew to deterioration and i hate it
I've LEGO Technic 42095, two L motors, no V2 receiver (or yes but without label)
Hey Sariel, where is the best place to buy new rechargeable battery packs, and I mean NEW, as they are now discontinued from the Lego shop?
Bricklink.com, same as for any other LEGO parts :)
I have only the V2 version. Can i still use my medium motor with it? It won't explode it?
Not recommended.
Is there a reason for using two separate outputs with two motors for the multi-motor setup? I thought you'd use a single motor whose output is coupled to two switches via two clutch gears so that one output can control two sets of motors. Like, receiver 1, blue channel forward -> switch A activates and thus receivers 2A-4A. Then by sending receiver 1, blue channel back, switch A deactivates and B activates, powering receivers 2B-4B. The same could be done with the red channel as well.
Can you connect the powered functions battery box to bluetooth?
If you mean Power Functions then no, Power Functions doesn't have Bluetooth connectivity, Powered Up does.
I actually own your first Unofficial LEGO technic builder’s guide book! I is sooo cool I can’t stop re-reading it!
:D
13:10 theres that giant black hamster again (twas enjoying to watch my friend, I don't play with Lego anymore but was still enjoying to watch none the less)
Hello Sariel,
Since you talked about the technic control panel, I'd have added a word about RCX 2.0 and the barrecode reader, it's useful to trigger a synchronized set of functions, for example, you use a IR receiver connected to a servo to activate push sensors connected to your RCX/barrecode and let it run the sequence even with PF motors thanks to extension wires :) in my experience, I used it on a plough, to make it lift/switch side/ground in sequence with just 1 push of a button :)
There's like 5 people in the whole world who still own either of these in a working condition :) I never even had either in my hands.
@@searme lol then I'm one of them, 3 working RCX 2.0 and 1 barrecode, even the board is still in good condition :)
Lucky you :)
I'm waiting on the king tiger model now lol
4:36 but does l motor work still with v1 receiver?
It does as long as it's one L motor.
Thanks for your service! :)
Fantastic video Sariel! Thanks for all of your hard work.
I need that technic control center stuff 😯sadly its sold out ,retired product
Can I use rechargable batteries for the battery box?
Sure.
Yes i also use it
0:10
That motor can talk!
AwsomeRace Minecraft lets just ignore about that hamster
Does normal infrared reciver work with L motor? please answer this question.
They work but they don't run at full power.
@@searme ok thanks you!!
Sry for these amount of questiona but answer me this time plz. I haver already bought a Lego remote Control and I would like to know if it works with every IR reciver.
This is still better than powered up
Where can you buy the rechargeable battery box?
Bricklink or eBay.
So. You have aa book? And the comments here tell me that the book is excellent.
Seeing as after finding your channel this morning and already learning a lot, i may need to look up that book.
I have several books in fact: sariel.pl/books/
you can give link with battery with 4 imputs?
LEGO doesn't make anything like that.
For speed should I use xl motors geared something like 1:4 or large motors geared less like 1:2?
RC buggy motor, ideally.
@@searme What if I don't have those?
Then find the best combination of motors for your needs using the old, good trial & error technique because very model is different.
does anyone have any videos recorded of the e motor in action other than the one from MrAlgeorg's 15 second one?
(MrAlgeorg's video was the only i could find of it so far)