So I just built this model and we have heavy wet snow coming down. As the model is built it could barely handle a 1/4" of the wet snow. I applied this five minute fix and went back outside and was running in heavy wet snow about 1/3 of the way up the rims (ground clearance is 1.5 inches). The only thing that finally stopped me was a build up of snow in front of the differentials and high-centering. Thank you so much for posting this tweak. While I am sure I could have figured it out, this made me go from, "Meh, this is OK." to "OK, time to see what else I can do to modify this truck." So again, thank you!
I bought it in September from an online store for 180 Euros. The car is great! Take care in assembly, I changed the gear ratio so that the car has torque and climbs over anything and NOT speed (change the small black wheel with the larger yellow wheel in the instructions). If the batteries are new, the car will climb on almost anything. Separately I bought an 11.1V Li-Po (Li-ion) battery (now it is "supercharged"). I mean it works SUPER! It also has speed and it has torque to climb over anything. The car is for enthusiasts who don't just want a LEGO Technics that pulls or it's static. It is great, I do recommend it.
shame changing the centre gears doesn’t make a different apart from making front n rear wheels turn at different speeds front diff gear swap sorts this
Not sure what do you mean my obvious limitations of the hub. The hub gives more abilities to the PU motors as it can receive the extra data coming from them. From power/torque perspective the motors are quite similar to their PF counterparts, their base RPM is different.
@@RacingBrick Ah ok. I am talking about the power cutoff of the hub being a limitation. The extra telemetry, in the other hand, is a much appreciated addition.
I see. That cutoff is not significantly different from Power Functions, you can see it in my test video about the motors - th-cam.com/video/KbpmNvCJI-Q/w-d-xo.html
@@kylekaye9147 you can see it being used here, it's really just 2 half beams and a 2L red axle with a bush or 2 half bushes on it - th-cam.com/video/0nHvXLgMVtw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the tip of swapping some gears which improves torque of this off-roader substantially. Do you know if (non-LEGO) RC-tires are available which suit these rims?
Why not change the gearing to 16teeth gears ? I did that to the 9398 gain speed. And in this model it looks like they used the 12 20 gearcombi to get speed instead of power. The 16/16 will make it loose some speed but gain a bit power and to my idea keep it fun to play with
Hi! I’m no pro but if I was to do it as part of the original build, is just a case of swapping round the black and cream gears in those two places? I think even I can manage that.
@@RacingBrick this got me thinking, if it is possible to combine the functionalities of the clutch shafts and the spider gears inside the diff housing to create a sort of 'limited slip diff' ...
@@carmatic I'm not sure if it can be done inside the diff, the space is very limited. There are several solutions if you look around on the internet, but they require a more complex mechanism.
@@RacingBrick maybe if they had a whole new design of a diff housing, it would make a lot more sense, there would be space for clutch packs , pressure rings etc etc but i was more thinking of simply having the spider gear mounting holes in the diff housing be made in the same way as the clutch shafts, so the spider gears cant spin freely
or this might sound like a crazy idea, but what if the spider gears are mounted flexibly, somehow... the difference in torque to each wheel will mean that the pressure on the spider gears is unequal from left and right, and if we allow this to move the gears to one side, the misalignment between the gears will prevent them from rotating smoothly
Excellent mod, offroad is so much more enjoyable now. Do you think removing some pieces would up the performance, or does most of the weight come from the power functions?
Can you help me with my problem. When i am using the model when i steer or thorttle the motor or the hub beeps like it is broken. Why do you think it is
If you’re asking how to make it 2wd, it’s impossible because you need to have all motors plugged in, and if you mean turning off the battery box then you only need to hit the button on top of the battery box.
It is the same, does not really matter which ones you swap per motor. I only advised to swap these because they are easily accessible even when the model is built.
That's because it does. Whats happened here is simple so in this model we have a 1 speed gearbox so no changing to different ratios. Lego instructs us to build this with what is called a short gear meaning it doesn't have high torque multiplication but you get a higher top speed. By inverting the gears you get what is called a tall gear and this is what you have in 1st gear of non electric cars because it allows you to set off the line quickly but you're limited top speed wise. This would be really good if we could fit a gearbox to it
Based on my experience with the bigger wheels the performance of the old crawler is even weaker. 42099 has definitely more power with the proper gearing.
@@RacingBrick Yes, I saw the video, in which you showed the result of the combination with bigger wheels, after this video. But i have bigger wheels on my crawler (9398) and it moves little bit better than your crawler
The old crawler is also better because it uses Power Functions, which works with BuWizz. The new connectors will need an adapter, which doesn't exist yet.
Hi. Can you help me. I bought it. Assembled it. But sadly , only 3 wheels are drivable i.e the app controller when I move only 3 wheels move. The fourth one does not. Is that the right behavior. 4x 4 means all should move correct ? Please help. Thanks. Awesome video by the way .
You need to check the gears in the differentials and also check the axles/CV joints connecting the wheel hub and the differential at the problematic wheel. Something is not connected properly for sure.
One motor drives the front wheels, the other one the rear ones. You need to swap 1-1 set of gears for both since you want them to drive the wheels at the same speed. Since there are 2-2 set of gears from each motor to the hubs theoretically you can swap the other ones as well, that'll make your car super slow and super powerful. In that case the height of the car will become a problem, it'll have the power to climb but most probably it will tip over.
Could you test what would happen if you changed both sets of gears and made it super slow and super powerful? The new CV joints are much stronger than the old ones, but I'm still not sure if they would hold up to that...
What if I am driving it straight against the wall? All of LEGO's un-modified sets can be completely stalled without breaking any pieces, and I don't want to change that.
![LEGO 42099 VS 9398: Which one is a better off-roader? [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fIxoi3Fakoc/mqdefault.jpg)
![LEGO 42099 VS 9398: Which one is a better off-roader? [4K]](/img/tr.png)
Stage 2 upgrade - th-cam.com/video/-vS2dYhYPmg/w-d-xo.html
Very nice. A second step could be taking off some pieces from the bottom of the axles to increase the ground clearance.
And also remove the differentials!
Yeah, welded diff is pretty good
So I just built this model and we have heavy wet snow coming down. As the model is built it could barely handle a 1/4" of the wet snow. I applied this five minute fix and went back outside and was running in heavy wet snow about 1/3 of the way up the rims (ground clearance is 1.5 inches). The only thing that finally stopped me was a build up of snow in front of the differentials and high-centering.
Thank you so much for posting this tweak. While I am sure I could have figured it out, this made me go from, "Meh, this is OK." to "OK, time to see what else I can do to modify this truck." So again, thank you!
You and Sariel are true technic enthusiasts 🤗
Thank you so much for this 5 min. upgrade. It was easy to follow with you showing the disassembly and reassembly.
Thanks for the video! This is much more how I expected this little truck to perform!
wow im glad i found this video what a huge improvement to climbing ability, totally worth sacrificing a bit of speed. Thanks for sharing this mod
Easy, simple instructions, little to replace but it's a big change in the end. Great video👍
Your upgrade is awesome it's the one yet I'd give you a million likes if I could
Clever! The bending was minimal; no parts were harmed during the turning of the off-roader into a more capable crawler.
I bought it in September from an online store for 180 Euros.
The car is great! Take care in assembly, I changed the gear ratio so that the car has torque and climbs over anything and NOT speed (change the small black wheel with the larger yellow wheel in the instructions).
If the batteries are new, the car will climb on almost anything.
Separately I bought an 11.1V Li-Po (Li-ion) battery (now it is "supercharged").
I mean it works SUPER! It also has speed and it has torque to climb over anything.
The car is for enthusiasts who don't just want a LEGO Technics that pulls or it's static.
It is great, I do recommend it.
Does this battery upgrade work with the existing battery setup or dk you remove the battery holder?
two little changes and so much fun :)
Great suggestion! Thank you for sharing!
simple and efficent solution, thanks for the instructions
Thanks so much for this. It’s really made it so much better!!!
So einfach, so effektiv. Einfach geil!!!
Definitely great easy to follow tutorial just about to test it out
Works great! I took it up a slide, and it doesn't get stuck in the lawn.
Good job my friend! I’m really like your video.
So easy!
I pictured ordering specific gears, modifying gearbox to fit more gears in...
Invert the gear ratio. Excellent work!
shame changing the centre gears doesn’t make a different apart from
making front n rear wheels turn at different speeds front diff gear swap sorts this
Thank you! Best fix ever xD
Do you think these new Control+ motors are in anyway better than their PF counterparts, excluding the obvious limitations of the new hub?
Not sure what do you mean my obvious limitations of the hub. The hub gives more abilities to the PU motors as it can receive the extra data coming from them. From power/torque perspective the motors are quite similar to their PF counterparts, their base RPM is different.
@@RacingBrick Ah ok. I am talking about the power cutoff of the hub being a limitation. The extra telemetry, in the other hand, is a much appreciated addition.
I see. That cutoff is not significantly different from Power Functions, you can see it in my test video about the motors - th-cam.com/video/KbpmNvCJI-Q/w-d-xo.html
Essential mod! Also superglue the differentials if you are I tending to use on dirt it helps on inclines
No need to superglue, you can lock the diff with a few simple pieces
@@RacingBrick interesting any guides?
@@kylekaye9147 you can see it being used here, it's really just 2 half beams and a 2L red axle with a bush or 2 half bushes on it - th-cam.com/video/0nHvXLgMVtw/w-d-xo.html
what about if you swap the 1:3 (speedy) ratio to a 1:1?
would you recommend stage 1 or stage 2 if ya want a well balanced setup between speed and climbing?
I'd go with stage 1
Thank you
Thanks for the tip of swapping some gears which improves torque of this off-roader substantially. Do you know if (non-LEGO) RC-tires are available which suit these rims?
I'm sure there're a lot of them but I did not try myself.
Why not change the gearing to 16teeth gears ? I did that to the 9398 gain speed. And in this model it looks like they used the 12 20 gearcombi to get speed instead of power. The 16/16 will make it loose some speed but gain a bit power and to my idea keep it fun to play with
Yes, you can play around with the gearing to see what combination suits your needs the best.
I have come up with another upgrade for the lego 42099 set. If you would like me to send pictures reply with an email that I can send them to.
Hi! I’m no pro but if I was to do it as part of the original build, is just a case of swapping round the black and cream gears in those two places? I think even I can manage that.
Yep, that's all
@@RacingBrick I’ll for sure give that a go! Thanks for the quick reply.
It can't ever be a 'real crawler' until you can lock the differentials!
Locking the differentials is actually the easiest thing to do
@@RacingBrick this got me thinking, if it is possible to combine the functionalities of the clutch shafts and the spider gears inside the diff housing to create a sort of 'limited slip diff' ...
@@carmatic I'm not sure if it can be done inside the diff, the space is very limited. There are several solutions if you look around on the internet, but they require a more complex mechanism.
@@RacingBrick maybe if they had a whole new design of a diff housing, it would make a lot more sense, there would be space for clutch packs , pressure rings etc etc
but i was more thinking of simply having the spider gear mounting holes in the diff housing be made in the same way as the clutch shafts, so the spider gears cant spin freely
or this might sound like a crazy idea, but what if the spider gears are mounted flexibly, somehow... the difference in torque to each wheel will mean that the pressure on the spider gears is unequal from left and right, and if we allow this to move the gears to one side, the misalignment between the gears will prevent them from rotating smoothly
Nice
Excellent mod, offroad is so much more enjoyable now. Do you think removing some pieces would up the performance, or does most of the weight come from the power functions?
You can improve the performance with optimizing the weight distribution
Can you help me with my problem. When i am using the model when i steer or thorttle the motor or the hub beeps like it is broken. Why do you think it is
I did not have this issue, I suggest to contact LEGO customer services to see what the problem is
İt is a disturbing high pitch sound. İ mailed i hope its normal
Hey RacingBrick
How long can you play with the crawler
Did not measure it, during filming it was running for more than an hour for sure
How do i turn off the 4x4?
I just finished building the 4x4 will try this soon,
If you’re asking how to make it 2wd, it’s impossible because you need to have all motors plugged in, and if you mean turning off the battery box then you only need to hit the button on top of the battery box.
If you swapped those 12t and 20t gears for 8t and 24t gears it would make it slower but have even more torque, right?
24t won't fit.
@@RacingBrick oh. :/
You can get lots more torque by changing both sets of 12/20 gears.
@@bibasik7 it becomes very slow and you can't really use that torque anyway. It will tip over or the differentials will become the limitations.
Love you
Makes the crawler with this setup also faster??
The fastest version is the original, all the others are slower but they climb better. You either have speed or torque.
for the front part I swapped the front gears and not on the motor. It's the same...
It is the same, does not really matter which ones you swap per motor. I only advised to swap these because they are easily accessible even when the model is built.
So, 2 motors? Each with 2 set of gears? Interesting. I too thought it would be simpler to swap the gears at the front differential.
Can this mode to harm gears and motor?
No it won't harm them, if the motor is overloaded it will shut down.
I find that it’s slower but has more power
That's because it does. Whats happened here is simple so in this model we have a 1 speed gearbox so no changing to different ratios. Lego instructs us to build this with what is called a short gear meaning it doesn't have high torque multiplication but you get a higher top speed. By inverting the gears you get what is called a tall gear and this is what you have in 1st gear of non electric cars because it allows you to set off the line quickly but you're limited top speed wise. This would be really good if we could fit a gearbox to it
Can anyone tell me how to turn it off?
If you kill the app the hub will disconnect and shut down. You can also disconnect the hub by pressing and holding the green button for ~7 secs.
But why switch gears only on the front wheel hub? Why not both?
I think you did not follow it properly, gears are switched for both axles
@@RacingBrick oh, ok. Please excuse me - I too thought I must have missed something, but somehow still didn't notice that both gearings were switched.
@@SithDarthGendo from 0:40 - gear switch for the rear axle, from 1:35 - gear switch for the front axle
That music again...
Good job! However, in my opinion old crawler is beter, especially in combination with new bigger wheels :)
Based on my experience with the bigger wheels the performance of the old crawler is even weaker. 42099 has definitely more power with the proper gearing.
@@RacingBrick Yes, I saw the video, in which you showed the result of the combination with bigger wheels, after this video. But i have bigger wheels on my crawler (9398) and it moves little bit better than your crawler
The old crawler is also better because it uses Power Functions, which works with BuWizz.
The new connectors will need an adapter, which doesn't exist yet.
@@bibasik7 don't hold your breath for that adapter, won't come anytime soon I think.
@@bibasik7 And a few months ago I just got my first BuWizz. Why did they have to change all the compatibility 😫
Hi. Can you help me. I bought it. Assembled it. But sadly , only 3 wheels are drivable i.e the app controller when I move only 3 wheels move. The fourth one does not. Is that the right behavior. 4x 4 means all should move correct ? Please help. Thanks. Awesome video by the way .
You need to check the gears in the differentials and also check the axles/CV joints connecting the wheel hub and the differential at the problematic wheel. Something is not connected properly for sure.
@@RacingBrick I see. I shall recheck. When I turn the vehicle upside down, and press the throttle only 3 move. Hmm.
7. 1LIKE = Ein EHRENMANN
I love it. Too bad I am in India. They are expensive
hold on to your dream.you will have it
What if only one of the gear sets (the one at the back of the car) is swapped? What will the gear ratio and the performance be?
One motor drives the front wheels, the other one the rear ones. You need to swap 1-1 set of gears for both since you want them to drive the wheels at the same speed. Since there are 2-2 set of gears from each motor to the hubs theoretically you can swap the other ones as well, that'll make your car super slow and super powerful. In that case the height of the car will become a problem, it'll have the power to climb but most probably it will tip over.
Could you test what would happen if you changed both sets of gears and made it super slow and super powerful?
The new CV joints are much stronger than the old ones, but I'm still not sure if they would hold up to that...
I can give it a try, but unless you're driving it straight against a wall I don't think the CV joints will be the limiting factor.
What if I am driving it straight against the wall?
All of LEGO's un-modified sets can be completely stalled without breaking any pieces, and I don't want to change that.
@@bibasik7 nothing happens if you don't modify it, the motors will simply stop.
PPPPPEEEEERRRRFFFEEEECCCTTT
h
‼️💪😎👍‼️🍾🥂
Another solution. Buy a real rc car
Yeah , but thats not the point, the whole point is in building the lego technic vehicle and not just driving it around.
Your upgrade is awesome it's the one yet I'd give you a million likes if I could