Glad to help. It helps prevent brake squeaks and keeps it in place during assembly too. It was taught to me while I was in high school shop class and just always did it that way since
Looking awesome!! I can't wait to continue seeing the progress!! Like you stated in an earlier video.....I am still waiting to take your body flipper dimensions....lol 🤣
It seems the car flipper tool is quite popular, never thought it would draw that much attention. Wish I could find my original drawings. I am sure we can come up with all the needed measurements.
7:14 From the Camaro Supplement manual. When you spin the rotor, torque the nut to 12 lbs ft. Then backoff the nut one flat and insert cotter pin. If the slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the nut an additional 1/2 flat or less as req'd to insert the cotter pin.
Perfect timing then. Glad to help that’s why we are doing this and of course if you do have a question during your install just ask. Either I can help or some of the other viewers might have the answer.
Another great video. An interesting note on the conversion kits is that they use a flex hose based on where the drum brake steel line terminates vertically on the outside of the frame rail, they also use a caliper with the hose tapped in a different location than a factory disc brake car. It is a little more involved to make it like a factory disc brake set up but is a neater installation when done without any hose clearance issues in the wheel well. The factory disc brake set up used a bracket on the upper control arm to secure the flex hose and ran to a steel line that terminated horizontally on the top of the frame rail. I have used the kits as a starting point and make the necessary changes to make it like a car that left the factory with disc brakes and no chance of the flex hose interfering with anything.
Great job brother that Firebird is going to stop with no problem I love the way everything is looking so nice and clean people can really see that a car can be nicely done right at home 👍
You learn something every day! I've done breaks on my '69 countless times and I've always had a little bit of squeak, mostly from the rears (D154 style kit). I've never seen or heard anybody discuss the outboard pad tangs as a culprit.
Glad to hear you learned something, thats our goal. It was taught to me while in my technical training, it was a very in depth course on all the details from pad replacement, brake line bending and flaring, turning rotors, rebuild calipers and wheel cylinders. All the things we don’t do now, it’s cheaper just to replace instead of rebuilding nowadays.
Good call on the conversion, disc brakes are so much easier to work on than drums. I tend to have trouble getting the auto adjusters put together right for drums.
Great work. Thank you for the tip with the brake pads, that one is going into my permanent memory lol. I have always preferred hand packing bearings. I have used the tool but I find it kind relaxing hand packing them. I cant wait to see you fire that engine up.
I want to see your custom belt drive operating. I haven’t dared try to build one but now I almost want to see if I can conquer that challenge like you are doing.
That’s a tuff one. I don’t, unfortunately the aftermarket doesn’t help much for those parts either. It could be fabricated definitely will take some time. Is yours rusted out or bent up?
Not cool. The reason I asked is if it was rusted you have to find or fabricate a new one. Being bent there is a chance it could be repaired might have to cut it apart and pieces out of it but it’s possible.
Great tip on the brake pads. I was also taught this by my uncle when I was very young. That Mountain Dew sounds pretty nasty lol. I'd like to see a video of putting quarters on a 69 firebird :P
Interesting, your uncle taught you right and I just might have to help you do yours and do a video. We can leave the fruit quake dew the store of course
@@VinylVillageGarage You know I'm getting close. Trying to do all I can to get everything done on my own. Quarters are just freaking me out! I figure if I could get you to stop by and show me where to start/cut thats all i'd really need.
Lol, my apologies!! Didn't know there was a hidden punt...lol...I hope the best of luck with your build, I totally understand the goosebumps that come with taking a cut-off wheel to a car!!
I have on the newer cars that bolt the saddle to the spindle, its a must. I never have seen an issue with this style caliper mounting bolt backing out. I haven’t used it. I am sure it would not hurt if someone did on this design
Great instructional segment. An observation and a question. Firstly, did you ever see a spindle with a gasket on it's face between the flat machined surface closest to the shaft, that mated with dust shield? I did once, material was the same type of composition as a water pump or fuel pump to block gasket. Never saw one again- this was factory GM components like what you're working with. Second, Do you know where I can get the keyed washers? I'm pretty sure mine have gotten lost, and I like knowing where all my pieces are way in advance so I can finish up a job and not have to come back to it. (already have too many of those!!!)
Yes I have seen those gaskets. I took a set of disc brake spindles of a 1970 Buick GS to convert my first Firebird to disc brakes, this was back in the day when nobody had aftermarket kits so you had to find the parts and make your own kit so to speak. They had those gaskets other then that I think I had a right stuff kit that had them but i can’t remember 100%. As for the keyed washers i have the two that came off the drum brakes from the great pumpkin, pretty sure they are on my tool box at work. I can check tomorrow for you
Now you tell me to install the brake and fuel metal lines BEFORE the engine goes in... hahahhahaha I going to just bite the bullet and go disc up front in my Bird after watching this video!
That brake kit is a widely available kit, identical to the GM components used from at least 1969-72. Used in the Abody (Chevelles,GTO,442,Skylark) F body (Camaro, Firebird) and X(Nova, Ventura, Omega).Smallest wheel you'll probably get away with is 15"
I have 14 rally 2 wheels for this car. Keep in mind not all 14” rally wheels clear the caliper they are different. There is a Chart on line on which ones clears. I also did a video on this about 6 months ago or so. There is a 2 letter stamp by the valve stem hole to help identify which rim you have.
@@VinylVillageGarage Okay that information is huge. I had no idea. There is almost nothing worse than buying an expensive part or kit that you are sure will fit and then when it arrives at the door you find out that it doesn't. Thanks again.
Hey John just curious why you don’t use. Some source of Loctite? If I’m ever in the area I would be honored to come help you on a project. It seams I learn something new with ever video you post. Have A Blessed Thanksgiving Brother🙏
Good point I do have red and blue in my top Right drawer of the tool box. It would not hurt I suppose. The lock nuts are ok but the loctite would hold even better. If ever in the Indy area or will be let me know I would be happy to have someone to play cars with. Happy thanksgiving to you!
The disc brake kit is part#AFXDCOIC-11 It also has a booster, master cylinder, and modern proportioning valve. The coil springs are stock height moog brand part 6312. There is like 30 different part numbers for front springs for the 1st gen f-body cars. And it comes down to engine size, transmission, with A/c, and so on. The ones I bought are a bit of a guess and i hope they work.
really helpful tips on the pad install. I did not know that you could bend the little ears on the pad to make a tighter fit. Thanks Jon!
Glad to help. It helps prevent brake squeaks and keeps it in place during assembly too. It was taught to me while I was in high school shop class and just always did it that way since
Looking awesome!! I can't wait to continue seeing the progress!! Like you stated in an earlier video.....I am still waiting to take your body flipper dimensions....lol 🤣
It seems the car flipper tool is quite popular, never thought it would draw that much attention. Wish I could find my original drawings. I am sure we can come up with all the needed measurements.
7:14 From the Camaro Supplement manual.
When you spin the rotor, torque the nut to 12 lbs ft. Then backoff the nut one flat and insert cotter pin. If the slot and pin hole do not line up, back off the nut an additional 1/2 flat or less as req'd to insert the cotter pin.
That is great Info, that would cover just about any hub type rotor. To tight is just as much and issue as too loose.
Great video Jon! Can’t wait to start on my ‘69!
Right on! did you get it out of the corner?
Awesome video. I’m almost to this step with similar parts. First-timer and slightly nervous, this helps a lot. Thanks!
Perfect timing then. Glad to help that’s why we are doing this and of course if you do have a question during your install just ask. Either I can help or some of the other viewers might have the answer.
Another great video. An interesting note on the conversion kits is that they use a flex hose based on where the drum brake steel line terminates vertically on the outside of the frame rail, they also use a caliper with the hose tapped in a different location than a factory disc brake car. It is a little more involved to make it like a factory disc brake set up but is a neater installation when done without any hose clearance issues in the wheel well.
The factory disc brake set up used a bracket on the upper control arm to secure the flex hose and ran to a steel line that terminated horizontally on the top of the frame rail. I have used the kits as a starting point and make the necessary changes to make it like a car that left the factory with disc brakes and no chance of the flex hose interfering with anything.
Even the replacement brake line kits makes a difference between factory disc brake or disc conversion.
Very well done and showing the same struggles we all have.
Thank you, hoping to fill in the blanks for some of us, especially if doing disc brake conversion
Great job brother that Firebird is going to stop with no problem I love the way everything is looking so nice and clean people can really see that a car can be nicely done right at home 👍
Thanks buddy, this car will be super clean when done.
You learn something every day! I've done breaks on my '69 countless times and I've always had a little bit of squeak, mostly from the rears (D154 style kit). I've never seen or heard anybody discuss the outboard pad tangs as a culprit.
Glad to hear you learned something, thats our goal. It was taught to me while in my technical training, it was a very in depth course on all the details from pad replacement, brake line bending and flaring, turning rotors, rebuild calipers and wheel cylinders. All the things we don’t do now, it’s cheaper just to replace instead of rebuilding nowadays.
Good call on the conversion, disc brakes are so much easier to work on than drums. I tend to have trouble getting the auto adjusters put together right for drums.
Drums can be a bit fickle especially on the front to keep it stopping in a straight line, it can be done but I really prefer disc brakes on the front.
Great job, I probably used the same kit by Right Stuff.
Thanks 👍 disc brake upgrade is a must in my opinion for a car that will driven frequently
Great work. Thank you for the tip with the brake pads, that one is going into my permanent memory lol. I have always preferred hand packing bearings. I have used the tool but I find it kind relaxing hand packing them. I cant wait to see you fire that engine up.
It was taught to me many years ago and it just stuck in the old rememory. Spoiler it runs great and super happy with it.
@@VinylVillageGarage Good to hear. I cant wait to finally get my engine in and started some year.
I want to see your custom belt drive operating. I haven’t dared try to build one but now I almost want to see if I can conquer that challenge like you are doing.
@@VinylVillageGarage LOL. I want to see how well it works (fingers crossed it doesnt blow apart).
Lol, good point. I hope it works great for you
John great tips and content as always looking forward to the next video and seeing progress on the assembly!
Thanks! Making nice progress but the weather is getting cold so it might slow me down a bit, don’t really like the cold so much anymore.
Looking for a right side windshield. Curious if you have any line on one project looks good though
That’s a tuff one. I don’t, unfortunately the aftermarket doesn’t help much for those parts either. It could be fabricated definitely will take some time. Is yours rusted out or bent up?
A tree hit the corner
Not cool. The reason I asked is if it was rusted you have to find or fabricate a new one. Being bent there is a chance it could be repaired might have to cut it apart and pieces out of it but it’s possible.
Great tip on the brake pads. I was also taught this by my uncle when I was very young. That Mountain Dew sounds pretty nasty lol. I'd like to see a video of putting quarters on a 69 firebird :P
If you go to his videos, he has 4 different videos of installing rear quarters on 68 bird. Same process just without louvers cut in.
Interesting, your uncle taught you right and I just might have to help you do yours and do a video. We can leave the fruit quake dew the store of course
@@Adam-ik9mi Thanks. He's a friend, we've talked about him coming over and helping and making a video.
@@VinylVillageGarage You know I'm getting close. Trying to do all I can to get everything done on my own. Quarters are just freaking me out! I figure if I could get you to stop by and show me where to start/cut thats all i'd really need.
Lol, my apologies!! Didn't know there was a hidden punt...lol...I hope the best of luck with your build, I totally understand the goosebumps that come with taking a cut-off wheel to a car!!
Great video as always Jon, keep up the good work. You keep me motivated 🙂 on my bird.
Awesomeness glad to help, we are all doing our part to save them birds!
Used to place a little blue loctite on the threads of the two bolts that mount the caliper. Have you heard of doing that?
I have on the newer cars that bolt the saddle to the spindle, its a must. I never have seen an issue with this style caliper mounting bolt backing out. I haven’t used it. I am sure it would not hurt if someone did on this design
Great instructional segment. An observation and a question. Firstly, did you ever see a spindle with a gasket on it's face between the flat machined surface closest to the shaft, that mated with dust shield? I did once, material was the same type of composition as a water pump or fuel pump to block gasket. Never saw one again- this was factory GM components like what you're working with.
Second, Do you know where I can get the keyed washers? I'm pretty sure mine have gotten lost, and I like knowing where all my pieces are way in advance so I can finish up a job and not have to come back to it. (already have too many of those!!!)
Yes I have seen those gaskets. I took a set of disc brake spindles of a 1970 Buick GS to convert my first Firebird to disc brakes, this was back in the day when nobody had aftermarket kits so you had to find the parts and make your own kit so to speak. They had those gaskets other then that I think I had a right stuff kit that had them but i can’t remember 100%.
As for the keyed washers i have the two that came off the drum brakes from the great pumpkin, pretty sure they are on my tool box at work. I can check tomorrow for you
Now you tell me to install the brake and fuel metal lines BEFORE the engine goes in... hahahhahaha I going to just bite the bullet and go disc up front in my Bird after watching this video!
It’s worth the effort to upgrade, disc brakes stop so much nicer.
What size are your front wheels? I am wondering about the kit you used and the clearances to the wheels for my application. thanks. Great video again.
That brake kit is a widely available kit, identical to the GM components used from at least 1969-72. Used in the Abody (Chevelles,GTO,442,Skylark) F body (Camaro, Firebird) and X(Nova, Ventura, Omega).Smallest wheel you'll probably get away with is 15"
@@charlieseidelmann6702 I thought the Firebirds and Camaros of that vintage had 14" wheels. Mine are 14"
I have 14 rally 2 wheels for this car. Keep in mind not all 14” rally wheels clear the caliper they are different. There is a Chart on line on which ones clears. I also did a video on this about 6 months ago or so. There is a 2 letter stamp by the valve stem hole to help identify which rim you have.
@@VinylVillageGarage Okay that information is huge. I had no idea. There is almost nothing worse than buying an expensive part or kit that you are sure will fit and then when it arrives at the door you find out that it doesn't. Thanks again.
Glad to help, we are all in this together trying To save as many birds as possible is the goal.
Hey John just curious why you don’t use. Some source of Loctite? If I’m ever in the area I would be honored to come help you on a project. It seams I learn something new with ever video you post. Have A Blessed Thanksgiving Brother🙏
Good point I do have red and blue in my top
Right drawer of the tool box. It would not hurt I suppose. The lock nuts are ok but the loctite would hold even better. If ever in the Indy area or will be let me know I would be happy to have someone to play cars with.
Happy thanksgiving to you!
Looks great , which kit is this and coil springs? Stock ride height?
The disc brake kit is part#AFXDCOIC-11
It also has a booster, master cylinder, and modern proportioning valve.
The coil springs are stock height moog brand part 6312. There is like 30 different part numbers for front springs for the 1st gen f-body cars. And it comes down to engine size, transmission, with A/c, and so on. The ones I bought are a bit of a guess and i hope they work.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thank you , you got her going together nicely
Thank you, I believe this will be a nice car when done
😎
Thanks!
👊 pքɾօʍօʂʍ
Thanks