If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Haha thank you lol I will tell my wife this as she’s got audio recordings of me screaming while mending her car off camera. I’m only calm as it’s in camera.
7:35 We've got one of those vibrating plate, exercise machines. (You stand on it & it's supposed to increase the effectiveness of any exercise). That inlet manifold with some items inside it could be strapped onto the vibration plate. It's capable of some very serious vibration! I think it would do a pretty good job on that. Perhaps take it to your local gym!
Hi Mark your technical skills have never been doubted but your starting to excel on the comedy front 😀- quality entertainment as ever! Thanks for putting it all together
if you put injector in with guide tube facing down and heat it just falls off, coding uses 8 digits, example injector 3 code needed is 06708100 last number doesn't get used, hope this helps also mr muscle oven cleaner into inlet manifold and let it do its work for a couple of hours then pressure washer out
Thanks a lot for that Paul. Will try that oven cleaner idea tomorrow. Any idea on how you clean the inlets to the valves as they are coked badly but I'm thinking if the valves were open the tar would seep past the open valves straight onto the piston crowns and could set and cause a bent piston rod. I was wondering when I remove the cams the valves would be closed so maybe try pouring carb cleaner in and suck it back out again.
@@CoatsandGaiters lots of patience and scra[ing and vacuuming, there is a process where you can get it blasted with walnut shells , but its a bit of a faff
@@pauloneill8912 Thank you Paul. Would spraying carb cleaner down them be a bad idea as it would soften it and the tar could possibly drip into the cylinders?
Just for reference, I haven't taken my injectors out but... I had 2 leaking injectors, 1 at the "chuffing" stage of leaking, quite a bit of solid tar around both. (Note: I always tighten them "hot" immediately after a 15+ mile drive, so the carbon/tar is softened). Initially tightened all clamps to 7Nm. That stopped the chuffing but there was still an exhaust smell in the car at times. Eventually tightened all clamps to 14Nm. This needs to be done several times (over several days) until none of the clamps move at 14Nm. I used to tighten every Wednesday, straight after a particular journey! It's basically squeezing the injector down the tube through the (warm) tar and also squeezing any tar out from above/below the copper washer. The tar is so viscous that that's not going to happen in one go! This has been fine for 3 years now. I check them every 6 months or so at 14 Nm & there's basically no movement. I believe the part of the studs that screws into the head is only M6. I think I found the recommended torque for 8.8 grade M6 thread is 12 Nm. (16Nm for 10.9 grade steel). So my 14Nm may be slightly over the recommended torque for that size and there may be some risk. (Although I think the upper part of the stud is M8, so who knows what difference that makes?) Angle tightening a stud that's being reused (as many people do) is also a risk, so take your choice! The down side of angle tightening is also that you don't know what torque you ended up at, so you can't check them in a years time incase they've backed off. The problem with these injectors isn't that the copper washer fails. The problem is that the cap nuts back off until there isn't enough clamping force for the copper washer to seal. (If you look at a leaking injector that's at the chuffing stage, the clamp nuts won't be much more than finger tight!) If people torqued these down every time they changed their engine oil, then leaking injectors would be a thing of the past. (Or if someone made a clamp to stop the nuts backing off over time).
Hi! Great video! Could you provide part numbers/name of the intake manifold seals (there are 8 o-rings and 8 conic shaped retention discs). I cant find these conic shaped seals anywhere on the market.... Should they be replaced also or are they a part of the intake manifold itself?
Thank you for the comment. Sadly I am terrible at buying car parts which is why I tend to resort to sealant on a lot of stuff. Car parts seems to be a minefield. I search ebay normally.
I too have never removed an injector but I’ve read up on it as my son had a v6Audi that suffered the exploding HPDP and all 6 need removing and the tank and fuel lines replaced of flushed to remove the bits of pump that liberally scatter themselves through the furling components. I decided not to experiment on someone else car , away from my tools and learning as I go. I paid off his finance on it and it was scrapped.
Blimey Patrick that sounds terrible and really expensive !!! was that a car made after 2007 as well? Your son is very lucky to have a generous father like yourself to clear his finances off for him. Hopefully the losses weren't too high.
@@CoatsandGaiters I think it was an 08. the car was an Audi A5. He did have the car serviced at the local Audi dealer and at first, they were going to cover the damaged/fault but then they relented and all efforts were fruitless. Ive always had a hatred for car Dealers as my experience hasnt been good- My 08 RRS cost me a fortune in service charges and when it came to comments on MOT that from bushes were worn- the Dealer said 'not covered- fair wear n tear' yet the warantee i paid £1200 a year for suggested otherwise...again, thieves! I also had bad experience with my BN Motorhome when it got over 3 years and at 4- the floor rotted and THAT wasnt covered as the Dealer in Canterbury had gone bust...As you can tell, Ive no time for them.
@@patrickjmorgan This must happen to everyone Patrick. I see those after sales insurance policies as a scam that will never pay out. Unfortunately the battle to ever get a pay out just isn't worth it. We bought a £8,000 VW T4 from a dealer as a disabled vehicle and on the way home the auto gearbox started doing a thing where it was like driving over rumble strips in the road. We tried to get our money back or get him to mend the auto box and he just didn't care. Threatened small claims etc and he said good luck do what you need to do. This again is why I mend my own cars and if I can't I'd go without one or find another means of transport. I have major trust issues with companies.
Could’ve used a 16mm long socket with extension on it over the high pressure threaded part and use that to loosen the injector.. much quicker and less hassle
I'm doing this exact job on an 07 mini. It's filthy, everything is covered in tar and soot. Do you know which way up the rubber washers go in the injector ports? They are under the plastic ones.
Hi mark..do the seals on the manifold eventually leak ? I have oil slightly pooling on the camshaft cover as though its misting from the seals..its not the injector seals as its not the crusty lava type stuff
Hi Neil these engines are prone to a few issues so I should keep your options open lol I only knew of the copper seals failing and oil creeping up injector tubes and out over the engine and then hardening to that lava.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
you are one of rare channels which dont show easy remove of injectors with 2-3 fingers and injectors just go out miracously
Thank you, these ones certainly didn't just pop out did they.
I've never, NEVER seen a mechanic working on car so calmly
Haha thank you lol I will tell my wife this as she’s got audio recordings of me screaming while mending her car off camera. I’m only calm as it’s in camera.
7:35 We've got one of those vibrating plate, exercise machines. (You stand on it & it's supposed to increase the effectiveness of any exercise). That inlet manifold with some items inside it could be strapped onto the vibration plate. It's capable of some very serious vibration! I think it would do a pretty good job on that.
Perhaps take it to your local gym!
Hi Mark your technical skills have never been doubted but your starting to excel on the comedy front 😀- quality entertainment as ever! Thanks for putting it all together
Thank you Mark for the compliment. I didn’t think my videos were entertaining lol my luck might be I guess haha
if you put injector in with guide tube facing down and heat it just falls off, coding uses 8 digits, example injector 3 code needed is 06708100 last number doesn't get used, hope this helps
also mr muscle oven cleaner into inlet manifold and let it do its work for a couple of hours then pressure washer out
Thanks a lot for that Paul. Will try that oven cleaner idea tomorrow. Any idea on how you clean the inlets to the valves as they are coked badly but I'm thinking if the valves were open the tar would seep past the open valves straight onto the piston crowns and could set and cause a bent piston rod. I was wondering when I remove the cams the valves would be closed so maybe try pouring carb cleaner in and suck it back out again.
@@CoatsandGaiters lots of patience and scra[ing and vacuuming, there is a process where you can get it blasted with walnut shells , but its a bit of a faff
@@pauloneill8912 Thank you Paul. Would spraying carb cleaner down them be a bad idea as it would soften it and the tar could possibly drip into the cylinders?
vacuum with small hose attached and scrape it out, dont think i would try carb cleaner as you say it turns the carbon into mush
@@pauloneill8912 just worried if it dripped onto the piston crown and hardened. Doubt there's much gap at the top when at TDC.
Just for reference, I haven't taken my injectors out but...
I had 2 leaking injectors, 1 at the "chuffing" stage of leaking, quite a bit of solid tar around both.
(Note: I always tighten them "hot" immediately after a 15+ mile drive, so the carbon/tar is softened).
Initially tightened all clamps to 7Nm. That stopped the chuffing but there was still an exhaust smell in the car at times.
Eventually tightened all clamps to 14Nm. This needs to be done several times (over several days) until none of the clamps move at 14Nm. I used to tighten every Wednesday, straight after a particular journey! It's basically squeezing the injector down the tube through the (warm) tar and also squeezing any tar out from above/below the copper washer. The tar is so viscous that that's not going to happen in one go!
This has been fine for 3 years now. I check them every 6 months or so at 14 Nm & there's basically no movement.
I believe the part of the studs that screws into the head is only M6. I think I found the recommended torque for 8.8 grade M6 thread is 12 Nm. (16Nm for 10.9 grade steel). So my 14Nm may be slightly over the recommended torque for that size and there may be some risk. (Although I think the upper part of the stud is M8, so who knows what difference that makes?)
Angle tightening a stud that's being reused (as many people do) is also a risk, so take your choice! The down side of angle tightening is also that you don't know what torque you ended up at, so you can't check them in a years time incase they've backed off.
The problem with these injectors isn't that the copper washer fails. The problem is that the cap nuts back off until there isn't enough clamping force for the copper washer to seal. (If you look at a leaking injector that's at the chuffing stage, the clamp nuts won't be much more than finger tight!)
If people torqued these down every time they changed their engine oil, then leaking injectors would be a thing of the past. (Or if someone made a clamp to stop the nuts backing off over time).
Some very interesting information you have shared there. Thank you
It is a good place to clean the manifold, 😃💕 over the open channels on the engine.
Hi! Great video! Could you provide part numbers/name of the intake manifold seals (there are 8 o-rings and 8 conic shaped retention discs). I cant find these conic shaped seals anywhere on the market.... Should they be replaced also or are they a part of the intake manifold itself?
Thank you for the comment. Sadly I am terrible at buying car parts which is why I tend to resort to sealant on a lot of stuff. Car parts seems to be a minefield. I search ebay normally.
I too have never removed an injector but I’ve read up on it as my son had a v6Audi that suffered the exploding HPDP and all 6 need removing and the tank and fuel lines replaced of flushed to remove the bits of pump that liberally scatter themselves through the furling components. I decided not to experiment on someone else car , away from my tools and learning as I go. I paid off his finance on it and it was scrapped.
Blimey Patrick that sounds terrible and really expensive !!! was that a car made after 2007 as well? Your son is very lucky to have a generous father like yourself to clear his finances off for him. Hopefully the losses weren't too high.
@@CoatsandGaiters I think it was an 08. the car was an Audi A5. He did have the car serviced at the local Audi dealer and at first, they were going to cover the damaged/fault but then they relented and all efforts were fruitless. Ive always had a hatred for car Dealers as my experience hasnt been good- My 08 RRS cost me a fortune in service charges and when it came to comments on MOT that from bushes were worn- the Dealer said 'not covered- fair wear n tear' yet the warantee i paid £1200 a year for suggested otherwise...again, thieves! I also had bad experience with my BN Motorhome when it got over 3 years and at 4- the floor rotted and THAT wasnt covered as the Dealer in Canterbury had gone bust...As you can tell, Ive no time for them.
@@patrickjmorgan This must happen to everyone Patrick. I see those after sales insurance policies as a scam that will never pay out. Unfortunately the battle to ever get a pay out just isn't worth it. We bought a £8,000 VW T4 from a dealer as a disabled vehicle and on the way home the auto gearbox started doing a thing where it was like driving over rumble strips in the road. We tried to get our money back or get him to mend the auto box and he just didn't care. Threatened small claims etc and he said good luck do what you need to do. This again is why I mend my own cars and if I can't I'd go without one or find another means of transport. I have major trust issues with companies.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes, your issues of trust appear well founded!
@@patrickjmorgan morals today are lacking unfortunately.
Could’ve used a 16mm long socket with extension on it over the high pressure threaded part and use that to loosen the injector.. much quicker and less hassle
Thank you for the heads up. Cheers
ayup mate i had the same issue on my focus with pulling the injector sleeve out, how did you go about refitting it?
Just pushed it back in gently then tapped it gently.
how many bolts holds intake manifold?? mine seems stuck heavilly from burned oil/gas so it doesnt move even i take all 5 of them
Normally 2 per port so I'd assume at least 8. I include very detailed photographs at the end of each video of the items I remove.
I'm doing this exact job on an 07 mini. It's filthy, everything is covered in tar and soot. Do you know which way up the rubber washers go in the injector ports? They are under the plastic ones.
That should be in Part 14 of refitting the diesel injectors. th-cam.com/video/SjPlXdmrcec/w-d-xo.html
@@CoatsandGaiters thanks a lot mate! Super helpful video by the way, I'd be totally lost without people like you!
@@georgefasey That's ok glad it's helping you. That's what my channel is all about.
you have much more space then in Peugeout 207 which are pretty tight with space
I have one of those with a destroyed engine as well lol
@@CoatsandGaiters they are terribly for repairing ., more stubborn then TDI
Range Rover injector copper seals are the best ones !
Is there something different about those ones? are they thicker and more durable do you know?
Hi mark..do the seals on the manifold eventually leak ? I have oil slightly pooling on the camshaft cover as though its misting from the seals..its not the injector seals as its not the crusty lava type stuff
Hi Neil these engines are prone to a few issues so I should keep your options open lol I only knew of the copper seals failing and oil creeping up injector tubes and out over the engine and then hardening to that lava.
@@CoatsandGaiters just done a few tests..sprayed soapy water around the inlet seals and its bubbling..nice job for the werkend
@@neillaw6249 good thinking !!! Soapy water can reveal a lot of things. Never thought of that Neil.