If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
You do FANTASTIC "how to" videos. Clear, calm audio explanations but for me the most useful and impressive are the still photos with colour coding of components - why don't more people do this. I feel like I'm back at Tech College ...
Thank you so much for that compliment. It's more a dedication out of love. Unfortunately this method doesn't return much in TH-cam revenue as it lacks the 'entertainment' factor which most TH-camrs require to be successful.
Regarding the copper washers, heat them up so they are glowing, with a torch or Something, then let them cool down, then you practilly have new washers, Because the heat make them expand a little, so you can tighten them again, without the washers are flat and Hard. I do that on the oil sumps drain washer, and it works, no leaks at all. 😉👍🏻
@@CoatsandGaiters just about to prime a new turbo on one of these 1.6d minis. I manually filled it with some oil but want to crank it without starting. Is it best to just pull the crank position sensor or should I pull the hpfp fuse, the injection system relay or something else as well? I don't work on a lot of diesels and I want to be sure it doesn't start immediately
@@DrCrunkMusic Sorry but I'm not sure to be honest. Petrol is so much easier to immobilise. Preventing fuel is the answer so either remove the fuel pipe of stop the fuel pump if that's possible.
@@CoatsandGaiters the effort you put into making your videos shows, I really enjoy you undertaking the problem solving aspect of the jobs. I've got a Fiesta 1.6 TDCI that uses the same dv6 engine so it's really interesting to me seeing the internal workings. Did you ever get to the bottom of why that cam shaft was dry in that particular spot? My guess would be you washed the oil away with a solvent.
@@norm4242 Thank you for commenting on the work I put into my videos. I do try my best and each video takes a solid week full time. I can only assume I washed it away as well but it still remains a mystery. Someone commented that the oil pump was probably on it's way out and hence it struggled to pressurise the hydraulic tappets. I think I probably should have replaced the oil pump.
Hi, I have this engine in peugeot 308. I noticed that the oil feed pipe was loose at it's ending and was planing to replace it, but now I saw in this video that oil feed pipe is loose also, but was not replaced. Is it normal to be loose?
Great work as always. In some of your videos you mention getting info for torque specs etc from online services, which one do you use? Also is the Peugeot 208 you done the timing belt on still going strong
Thank you Steven. At the start I would often get the torque specs off a guy in the trade as they had Bosch online resources that gave instructions on repairs. He would print the relevant pages and send to me. The Peugeot wasn't mine and the chap sold the car soon after as he was annoyed with it suffering issues after buying it and it being a relatively new car.
I’m about to do my oil cooler on c4 grand Picasso 2009 1.6hdi but there’s a big gasket that i’m not to sure where it goes, all the little gaskets fit in the groove holes/slots but there’s a big one i’m not sure where it goes, can u help?
@@wildfruits477 there is a large round seal that fits around the black plastic housing that the filter sits in. You probably know this but sometimes we oversee the obvious.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
You do FANTASTIC "how to" videos. Clear, calm audio explanations but for me the most useful and impressive are the still photos with colour coding of components - why don't more people do this.
I feel like I'm back at Tech College ...
Thank you so much for that compliment. It's more a dedication out of love. Unfortunately this method doesn't return much in TH-cam revenue as it lacks the 'entertainment' factor which most TH-camrs require to be successful.
@@CoatsandGaiters I hear what you say mate, but I'll bet you breed great loyalty with this approach. Dave.
@@Dave-in-France Welcome to my club David lol I hope you have subscribed and rang that bell then haha (tongue in cheek)
Congartulation on the great videos! It's a pleasure to watch someone do this job methodically and with proper equipment !!!
Thank you for that. Hope it helped.
Regarding the copper washers, heat them up so they are glowing, with a torch or Something, then let them cool down, then you practilly have new washers, Because the heat make them expand a little, so you can tighten them again, without the washers are flat and Hard. I do that on the oil sumps drain washer, and it works, no leaks at all. 😉👍🏻
Thank you for that tip. Will definitely try that.
true!
This video was very helpful thank you
Thank you for commenting and good to hear.
@@CoatsandGaiters just about to prime a new turbo on one of these 1.6d minis. I manually filled it with some oil but want to crank it without starting. Is it best to just pull the crank position sensor or should I pull the hpfp fuse, the injection system relay or something else as well? I don't work on a lot of diesels and I want to be sure it doesn't start immediately
@@DrCrunkMusic Sorry but I'm not sure to be honest. Petrol is so much easier to immobilise. Preventing fuel is the answer so either remove the fuel pipe of stop the fuel pump if that's possible.
The best video, I like you work. Don't stop.
Thank you Jose, that very kind of you to say that.
Great set of videos.
I would have been hesitant to use that sealant on the oil cooler in case any little fragments ended up in the oil.
Thank you for the compliment. I totally agree it was a risk that could have backfired on me.
@@CoatsandGaiters the effort you put into making your videos shows, I really enjoy you undertaking the problem solving aspect of the jobs. I've got a Fiesta 1.6 TDCI that uses the same dv6 engine so it's really interesting to me seeing the internal workings.
Did you ever get to the bottom of why that cam shaft was dry in that particular spot? My guess would be you washed the oil away with a solvent.
@@norm4242 Thank you for commenting on the work I put into my videos. I do try my best and each video takes a solid week full time.
I can only assume I washed it away as well but it still remains a mystery. Someone commented that the oil pump was probably on it's way out and hence it struggled to pressurise the hydraulic tappets. I think I probably should have replaced the oil pump.
good video banjo bolt should be 30 nm as it is the same engine as mk2 focus dv6👍
Thank you for that. Worth knowing mickobyte
Hi, I have this engine in peugeot 308. I noticed that the oil feed pipe was loose at it's ending and was planing to replace it, but now I saw in this video that oil feed pipe is loose also, but was not replaced. Is it normal to be loose?
I think it's meant to be that way, possibly some form of joint to alloy for expansion possibly. I thought it strange at first, but it doesn't leak.
Another great video!
Thank you Rhys
Hello why didn't you changed the oil cooler house seal? Most of time it cause oil leaks.
I'm tight with money
@@CoatsandGaiters haha plus 10 €
@@logoutss exactly !!!
@@CoatsandGaiters that banjo bolts will kill the turbo due to the filter
@@logoutss I did check the filter and it was nice and clear as they are prone to blocking I read.
Great work as always. In some of your videos you mention getting info for torque specs etc from online services, which one do you use? Also is the Peugeot 208 you done the timing belt on still going strong
Thank you Steven. At the start I would often get the torque specs off a guy in the trade as they had Bosch online resources that gave instructions on repairs. He would print the relevant pages and send to me. The Peugeot wasn't mine and the chap sold the car soon after as he was annoyed with it suffering issues after buying it and it being a relatively new car.
If you heat the copper washer up they return to there original shape 👍
Thank you for that information Dave.
I’m about to do my oil cooler on c4 grand Picasso 2009 1.6hdi but there’s a big gasket that i’m not to sure where it goes, all the little gaskets fit in the groove holes/slots but there’s a big one i’m not sure where it goes, can u help?
It's not the large round one for the oil filter housing?
@@CoatsandGaiters Not sure which one u mean
no it’s not for the oil filter housing it’s for the oil cooler i’ve had to take the whole housing of the block to get the oil cooler of
@@wildfruits477 there is a large round seal that fits around the black plastic housing that the filter sits in. You probably know this but sometimes we oversee the obvious.
@@wildfruits477 unless it’s for a model variation. Maybe the seal set fits a couple of models and it’s cheaper to do just one kit.