How to replace a timing belt on a Peugeot/Citroën 1.4 16v KFU engine.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2019
- In today's video we are going to replace the timing belt on this Peugeot 207 1.4 16V
But it almost the same if not the shame on the cars listed below.
PARTS USED:
Amazon affiliate link
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OEM NUMBERS: PEUGEOT 16095257 1609525780 16107933 1610793380
TIMINGBELT: GATES KP15615XS
CARS WITH THE SAME ENGINE:
Peugeot 1007 (KM_)
Peugeot 206 (2A/C)
Peugeot 206 SW (2E/K)
Peugeot 207 (WA_, WC_)
Peugeot 307 (3A/C)
Peugeot 307 Break (3E)
Peugeot 307 SW (3H)
Citroën C2 (JM_)
Citroën C3 I (FC_, FN_)
Citroën C4 Coupe (LA_)
Citroën C4 I (LC_)
Music:
Song: Sunset Paradise by Wonki @wonkimusic
Music provided by Free Music for Vlogs • (Free Music for Vlogs)...
Song: IntoTheJungle by DIZARO @dizarofr
Music provided by Free Music for Vlogs • (Free Music for Vlogs)...
*Disclaimer
We, The Dutch Garage, are not responsible for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Information given in this video does not guarantee the desired outcome. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of the tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not The Dutch Garage. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Excellent video and done in a true to life way . Not everybody has a tool for everything so it's good to see alternative methods.
Excellent video, really good walk through of the process and challenges you will face. Explaining tool sizes and torque settings also massively helpful.
Nice one, top geezer.
Great video buddy, very informative and well detailed, keep up the good work!!
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback.
Thank you so much for this upload way better than the workshop manual
Great to hear, just be sure to keep the manual at hand.
briliant , thank you so much for making this video , i will be changing mine soon and will definetly use your guidence.
Great to hear, good luck!
You uploaded it in the right time lol , my car just broke down clutch and i see oil leaking beside the timing belt :)
thank you so much :)
No problem! be sure it isn't the head gasket. these engine are prone to be leaking oil from the head gasket ad the front of the engine.
@@TheDutchGarage leaking in the engine right side , under the timing belt ... but I'm gonna make sure there is no other leaking ☺
Thanks allot
great vid ive just changed my peugeot 206 1.4 hdi,keep up the good work buddie
Will do!
Love the video. Very well made. I'm not gonna change a timing belt in some time. But watch it for learning and entertainment.
Hi! If i can give you a bit of advice. Do a timing belt change. They are really good for views. And thank as always.
Thanks for the advice.
Your video was informing and useful to me, so your video served a purposed. Thankyou very much.
No problem!
@@TheDutchGarage hi. What happens if you change the head gasket and reuse the old timing belt?
Im an Algerian mechanic and tomorrow, I will change a timing belt of Peugeot 207 of my frein. So thank you very much
I hope everything went well!
Great video great mechanic shows it as it is dirt and all ,
Thanks! It is a dirty job sometimes.
Best Video about this engine👍 thanks
Thank you, glad it helps you out.
Just done one today frozen up no anti freeze in it re time it up started up👍
excellent video Dutch dude
Thank you.
Great video! Did mine 5 months ago. A lot of research first as no videos on this. Haynes manual was my main guide despite a few inaccuracies. Have to say, found it a real nightmare getting the metal timing cover off. Took me 2 days to get one of the metal timing cover horizontal t50s off due to lack of access. Finally had to raise engine right up so it was almost touching bonnet for access. Basically most of the job! I supported engine with a trolley Jack on the gearbox sump with wood. The flywheel locking pin is any small allen key that fits and is needed if you need to get it all locked perfectly (you dont need any welded wire thing like the Haynes manual says) you can easily get it in by hand. It's pretty good you can use drillbits/allen keys no problem rather than a special locking kit. I used a bike spanner to do the giant inlet/dephazer cam nut it doesnt take much force. Wish I knew more about the seals as the dephazer cam seal replacement failed through not having the right plastic drift and being set slightly 1mm too far in. Put my waterpump on without sealant and its fine months later.
The Haynes manual that I had bought did not include this engine. On the internet there is almost no info at all about this engine no torque specs nothing. But your right it is allot of engine up engine down to be able to remove/install it. Thank you for your comment I really appreciate that!
@@TheDutchGarage your right hardly any info at all out there on this engine!! I also had the peugeot official workshop manual which had some form of frame contraption to raise and lower the engine via attaching to the anti torque bar to do the timing belt! So at first I thought there was no chance to do a diy timing belt on the 1.4L 207 without compromising my safety. It was a garage or nothing. The 207 Haynes manual 2006 to july 2009 does have the 1.4 L ET3J4 KFU engine under Chapter 2 Part A: non vti petrol engines with torque settings.
I know many call it the 'book of lies' but at least it gave me hope I could do the timing on my own. It recommends a trolley jack, drill bits etc...But it simply states 'undo bolts and remove cover'!!! When it comes to the almost impossible part of accessing the t50 bolts and getting the metal covers off.
I had real nightmares i was going to bust the air conditioning pipes or what not using the trolley Jack, gingerly raising and lowering by fractions, but you can raise and lower the engine till it almost touches the raised bonnet, or lower it almost to the ground with no problems with the left engine mount off, to gain much needed access. I managed to round a few bolts using multipoint sockets instead of hex to undo them, but few headaches other than having to redo the entire timing job after I finally put the car together after a long day and ran the engine in trumph, my heart sank when I noticed oil leaking down the inside of the timing cover due to the new unbranded ptfe dephazer cam oil seal leaking. I bought a proper replacement corteco branded set with the plastic drifts which somehow way more than doubles the price, but managed to seat them in properly this time. Access is almost impossible to hammer the dephaser seal in, so a tip is to unclip the coolant header tank which is suprisingly easy to give you room to move. I love your videos and your style, you lay it all out and its a great journey to see the car fixed and working at the end. I used your last 207 one to figure out where my oil plug is and how to take out and clean the vvt soleniod which was gunked up!
@@SlobberySlob Well the oil leakage isn't gone with this car. So my best bet is that the head gasket if just gone. I wanted to change the head gasket when I did the timing belt but I decided not to do it at te last moment. Nou i'm regretting that of course. So I probably will make a other video about this car. Thank you for your kind words! also I hope I can find a good manual before removing the head if i'm going to do that.
@@TheDutchGarage The head gasket is not too bad a job on this car (if the words 'not too bad' and replacing a head gasket can ever go together!)
The classic head gasket failure on this car is a oil leak on the front corner of the engine.
You don't normally need to get the engine milled flat with just a oil leak as long as it's not overheated. (You can use a straight edge to test)
I found the Haynes manual was the best help when I did it. But it's totally doable now you have the timing cover removal mastered, if not a lot more time and work. Could also look over engine parts and see what damage and wear it's suffered due to no oil changes.
You do also need a piece of old timing belt to lock the cams when undoing them and tightening, its the same locking procedure with drillbits but you must lock the flywheel this time with a small allen key. It takes a while removing all the stuff from the head, but fairly straight forward otherwise. Cleaning the head...I used wd40 and a copper scraper, which took hours but very interesting to see fordtechmanuloco and his method which works in minutes with 3M drill brushes! There are NO videos on doing a head gasket on this car.
@@SlobberySlob Thanks for your advice, do you know the torque specs of the head bolts?
Thank you Brother.
Thank you Bro! Great video! 🙂🤘
Thanks!
Re: Timing pin size for exhaust cam pulley. The locking pin is 8mm diameter- you could use a drill bit, allen key or an old 13mm bolt (99% of 13mm spanner size bolts are M8 thread), just make sure the bolt thread is long enough to pass through the pulley and locate into the slot- 50mm/2" is fine. I always move the coolant reservoir to get better access and also raise it up when refilling the cooling system so that gravity helps bleed the air out easily. Well done on a really informative/real life video.
Thank you, and thanks for the input it's always welcome!
@@TheDutchGarage why is the coolant tank so dirty? Is your car drinking coolant or had a head gasket job done?
Geweldig hoe jij dat doet!
Dank! Doet me goed.
Hi.
Great video it helps a lot thank you. For the detail instructions.
One thing you forgot is to mention the size of the lock pin on the exhaust shaft.
Intake is 5mm drill bit. 👍
Exhaust ❓ 🤔
Sorry don't remember anymore. but something like that indeed. Thanks for the compliments.
Super videó!
Thank you.
Good video thankyou. I have 2007 Peugeot 207 1.4 with this engine. I have to change timing belt as it is over due, and also I think the auxiliary/multi belt tensioner because it is noisy I think.
I have noticed oil I think leaking from head gasket, but I really don't want to do this so I will probably leave this, it is slow leak and not bad. Or maybe the oil is leaking from the camshaft seal.
Where can I buy the locking pin from for can shaft pulley?
Goodddd jobb ,, i like your video
Have you ever done fuel rail removal on this engine? Great vid by the way such a great guy
Thank you, but no I never had to do that.
I once did of on my Kfu engine, the tools i needed to buy were deep socket size 10 and a bunch of really long 1/4 inch extensions. You Will need them for the middle bolts in the intake manifold. If you have the right tools the procedure is really straight forward.
@@barrydebeunhaas Thanks for the extra info!
hello I have the same 1.4 kfu engine,
I need to replace the oil pump chain, can you tell me the easiest way to do it,
thanks for the answer
What size mole grips did you used to get inlet pulley off? Went to do mine today and can't get the damn thing off!
Hi, I am using your video as a guide, very well explained thank you. I am having an issue with the timing belt staying in place. Lined up with mark on belt and camshaft sprocket when installed. After 4 rotations, the belt seems to have moved counter clockwise by about 10 cm. tensioner set at maximum. belt is also moving forward on both camshaft sprockets, can you help please
That the belt markings don't line up after 4 rotations is normal. You have to check the markings on the gears if they are aligned.
Great Video man. can u tell me how many nm does the camshaft adjuster screw have to be tightened?
Sorry don't know it anymore.
No problem man. Thx for the very helpfull Video 👍🏻👍🏻
For anyone wondering Gates is also the OEM supplier. Don't buy the overpriced PSA kit as it's just Gates. Auxiliary kit as well!
Geweldige video! Ik twijfel er aan om dit ook zelf te gaan doen in de nabije toekomst. Welke garage heb jij en wat kost zo'n klusje ongeveer? Bvd!
Dank!, zelf heb ik geen garage. Het is voor mij een hobby. Je kan naar mijngarage.nl gaan om daar direct te kijken wat een reparatie kost voor jou auto. Wel even kijken als ze ook de waterpomp vervangen dat is nog wel eens een dingetje.
@@TheDutchGarage bedankt voor je reply! Jammer dat je dit alleen hobbymatig doet. Ik denk dat ik het toch moet uitbesteden aangezien ik geen oprit of garage heb.
Can you do a Vid for the Honda Civic 1.6 I-DTEC fuel filter change???
I don't know someone with a car like that.
51:10 :P thanks for the video
hey, bedankt voor de video! Vraagje: ik ben de koppakking aan het vervangen van hetzelfde type motor... ik zou toch het vliegwiel willen blokkeren voor m'n gemoedsrust ;-). Maar nu vraag ik me af of dit het grotere gat is (dat afgedicht was met een plastic dop) of het super kleine gaatje achter het oliefilter? Kon het echt niet vinden hoe dit moet. Enig advies? Alvast bedankt!
Hallo, hij schijnt idd achter hij de oliefilter te zitten. Maar hoe en wat geen idee.
@@TheDutchGarage hey, merci voor je antwoord! Ik heb het ondertussen gevonden ;-). er was nog een derde gat een tikje hoger. Daar lukte het wel. Succes met je video's!
Wanneer je de waterpomp vervangt loopt er koelvloeistof eruit loopt dat uit de hele systeem zo ja moet je hem dan ook bijvullen ?
Hij loopt niet helemaal leeg maar je mist zeker een paar liter. Dus altijd bijvullen en ontluchten.
Are you sure about the crankshaft bolt? I found 40nm and 45 deg in peugeot manual for KFU. You said in the video it is 50+180deg
Go with your own numbers. I do think I used the torque specs that came with the timing kit. But I'm not sure.
@@TheDutchGarage i see thanks for the answer!
hello, do you have to change the oil seal even if they are very clean and dry? can the timing belt be replaced without removing the camshaft pulleys?
You definitely don't have to replace the oil seals. But this is a good time to change them if they are leaking.
yes you can
Beste,
Ik heb even een vraag:...
Als beide nokkenassen gefixeeerd staan met een pin en de kruksas markering staat naar onderen gericht gelijk met de streep op het blok en cillinder 1 en 4 staat in het BDP, dan staat hij toch goed om de nieuwe riem weer te plaatsen? Oftewel.. hoe weet ik of de krukas 1x of 2x rond is gedraaid en in de juiste positie staat? Is dat altijd als cillinder 1 en 4 bovenin staan?
Ik hoor het graag.
Arien
Hallo, als ze verkeerd zouden staan krijg je de pinnen er niet in.
@@TheDutchGarage Kun je me even mailen, dan kan ik even een foto toevoegen om te laten zien wat ik bedoel.
ArienAPENSTAARTJEvanleusden.info
Great video ! I replaced the timing belt (same engine) of my friends car but I notice that after a while running , the pointer on the tensioner was almost at the 3mm hole . Then I re-adjusted the tensioner a second time but even after doing it and with the engine running again , the pointer passed the referece mark\cut again ..is this normal ? The contitech belt was a pain in the arss to fit in the car , they are very tight! I think maybe this is the reason of all this thing
This happens when you start and stop the car. The drive train wants to go into rest and most of the time they go backwards a bit due to the valve springs. And that trows of the pointer. It is in portent when you turn the engine by hand the pointer stays in the same place.
@@TheDutchGarage actually the pointer moved with the engine warm already , didnt notice any movement while starting or cutting the engine but ye , the pointer was on the mark while i was rotating the engine by hand ... Yesterday when i woke up i checked the tensioner and it was on the mark so i think thats just normal
@@Danidasanic I say,. Job wel done!👍
hi are the waterpump bolts through or not , thanks
I dont know for sure anymore.
Hi again, i finished the head gasket replacement and started engine and it is working fine. My only concern is that the timing belt tensioner was adjusted till the pointer in middle and then i turned engine sevral times by hand and still was in middle. After starting engine the pointer went a little bit down. Is this normal? Thanks
Hey! good job! I do see that happen in some cases. You can retention it without to much of a hassle if you really want to. This has to do with seating and stretching of the belt.
@@TheDutchGarage thanks mate, i think when pointer is lower than mark the more tensioned the belt is. I have to remove the mounting bracket again to access.
@@FordistM If zo that should not be a to big of a deal for you. You just replaced a head gasket! I'm to chicken to do that with this car. It is just not a healthy engine anymore and think that I will make thing worse than better.
Ref intake camshaft sprocket, after putting a 5mm drill piece in, i succesfully undone the bolt, which was so tight it actually slightly bent the end of the drill piece, the sprocket is now loose and i can pull it off about a centimetere, it then jams, i have put lots of WD40 in , to try to free it from the camshaft stub, and carefully tapped the sprocket with a rubber mallet, but still it refuses to leave the shaft, any ideas would be much appreciated !
That's a hard one, normally i would say heat but it don't think it is a good idea in this case. Get yourself a puller.
@@TheDutchGarage Thanks for your reply Dutch Garage, yes i thought about a bit of heat, but concluded not a good idea in in these circumstances, eventually after lots of WD40 i used 2 stout screwdrivers very carefully and suddenly the dam thing came off ! with no damage at all ! the rear timing belt cover intact, like you said in your video, the bolts to the camshaft sprockets so very tight, very good video btw, very clear and well explained, nice not to suffer blaring music as well, many thanks for replying, onward with getting the bent valves out now, !
hi, I have the same engine and it is leaking from behind the timing belt. Do you think that it might be the oil seals or these type of engine normally leak from the head gasket? if I dismantle the timing belt will I be able to trace the leaking gasket without removing the cylinder head? Thanks and good Video!!
The change is very high that the head gasket is leaking. How more you remove the easier it is to see te leak.
@@TheDutchGarage thanks for your reply. I will remove the items and belt but then I cannot start the engine then to check the leak if it is on the pressure side.
@@FordistM That is true, maybe the best thing is to clean the engine bay and after a while you can see were the engine starts leaking.
@@TheDutchGarage hi again, dismantled the timing belt and found that the head gasket was faulty causing the oil leak on the left corner. Thanks for your guide video!
@@FordistM That sucks, good luck with replacing.
hi you dont need a engine lifter . on the sump theres a welded bracket where you can fit your jack so much easier for going up and down with no damage good video though
Thanks for the tip! Always appreciated.
@@TheDutchGarage and also on the tensiner is a little hole you pull it backand pop a split pin then the belt slips off and on easy hope this helps
Will this be the same on a 2005 Citroen c2 vts petrol engine.
If it has the KFU engine then yes.
@@TheDutchGarage Aghh never mind I think mine has a NFS in it.
hi dear
i have same car kfu et3j4
when my car is engine heat up to 90 celcius idle surfing up and down.. and some time engine stop during idle
what is the my car is problem?? thank u
and im sorry for my english :S
Hallo, the first thing i would look at is the idle controle valve. Try to clean it with a carbon cleaner.
@@TheDutchGarageunfortunately this engine ICV does not exist
@@boyunique A ok, i'm not a expert on these engines. I do know that they suffer from head gasket failure maybe you have to look into that. But it also can be a bad temperature sensor. Also have al look at the throttle body and give it a good clean.
@@TheDutchGarage thank u for ur answer. İ will check it parts
Best regards
Be head gasket that leaking oil done loads them
You are probably right, after Imade this video I talkt with some mechanics and they said the same.