Just installed over 40ft, works perfectly! One huge recommendation: in the video they use standard #8 1.5" screws with a drill driver. I highly recommend getting exterior all purpose screws with a torx head and impact driver. Makes the job much easier. I swear their wood in the video is made out of marshmellow 😂
We love this system. Even though our home is a 1926 Cape Cod it blends nicely with our 8 inch wide fascia (solid PVC). You will need to use silicone at any connections. Use 18 inch spacing. You can see our installation on our blog gearacres.blogspot.com/ Also run the gutter completely through the drop outlet and finish your run. Then go back and position the drop outlet and screw it in place. You will need to cut a hole in the gutter so water can flow out. It's easy because it is plastic. If you do it their way, you end up with additional connections that can leak and shift. If you want a nice straight run don't do it their way. If your supplier offers the larger downspouts get them because the added cost is small but it increases the amount that water leaves the gutter and helps to eliminate gutter overflow.
@@janmariebrunette-hunyady1386 Could not locate your blog post on the gutter installation. Went through this year and last back to May 2018. Perhaps you should specify year and month of installation so we don't have to troll through your whole blog.
We just received a quote on friday for new "professional" installation for seamless gutters. $3, 000. I thought, damn I have to wait a whole month to get these in, let me watch a youtube video real quick. So I found this system at lowes, and purchased everything I needed. A little over $400, but might return a few parts. Took me about 3 hours to hang the entire one story home I have. Hope for rain now to see if I did a good job or not haha..
Yea, 3 grand is thievery. Ctaftsmen today...lol....just throw a price at ya....how much per hour is 2600 divided by 3= 866 dollars an hour. Were those craftsmen in business suits and called themselves lawyers!😂
If you leave the section at the downspout as one piece you gain two very important things. Superior rigidity and two less seals to worry about. The gutter can be cut in the middle where it goes across the downspout with any of several tools, a box cutter knife would be hardest, but a hole saw will work, but leave rough edges, but an oscillating saw will make short work of that section, just cut out a rectangular area comparable to the drainage area made by having two separate pieces. Rigidity is paramount for any gutter system,as any kind of sagging will defeat the whole purpose of the system, to have a consistent fall allowing water to naturally drain away from your home and NOT settle at your foundation, possibly seeping into your basement or crawl space.
Thanks for this! I had to read it several times to “get it”, but I knew the answer was in your comment…just me, having to “see” what you meant! Finally sunk in and this is exactly what I’ll do. Thanks again!😊
My vinyl gutter system only lasted 10 years under CA weather. Also the gutters are not flush to the fascia and drip edge which can cause water to miss the gutter. I had to caulk the joining seals as they leaked over time. Plus you need a lot of hooks so the vinyl gutter will not warp. I did 18 inches per instructions. Replaced this with seamless aluminum gutters.
Hope the inner-joint connectors have enough downhill to let water over the interior piece. I have the same system and, problem is after 1 year having bit water constantly sitting between joints because of the gutter interior piece being so thick, they all leak. So, so sad...
They do not really show it but the drop should be at the lowest point and the 2 foot piece at the end should be higher than the drop. If they followed the chalk line they would have a puddle there.
Seems like there is potential for water to get in behind the gutter as there is a large air gap. Also. They did not caulk the old holes which will allow water in.
I am trying to install a similar system, using the 2x3 rectangular downspouts. The system is exactly like the video shows. I got all the pieces together at the store, the downspouts, the brackets, elbows, short pieces, clamps, etc. Did you notice I left out one item? Apparently, these stores (Home Depot, Lowes) don't realize the downspouts are the MOST important part of a gutter system!!! Because neither had that downspout adaptor section for the 2x3 downspouts that go in the gutters shown. The system shown in the video was the one I wanted to use because it matches the rest of my house gutters. They had those downspout adaptors for ALL the other size system, though!
Should the gutters be hung on the drip edge or right under it and I notice there's a space in between the gutters and the fascia because of the hangers. Is that space normal?
About ready to give up, the dropout section went in fine, BUT the downspouts don't seem to fit any of the joiner pieces, without some sort of connector piece. I cannot, figure this out. So weird , look like a breeze on your video. I'm just doing a small gutter at where my house roof joins to divert run off (heavy run) into my front porch gutter and I am so tired of trying to get this vinyl thing down.
Just installed on chicken coop and 3 car open sided steel shed. Didn’t have anything before. It’s ok - easy. But I wouldn’t use for house. Get a professional seamless steel instal for that. You can put on gutter covers yourself if you wanna save money.
How do you join two pieces of this gutter if not at 90 degree angle? I have to go around a bay window and need to join gutter at different angles. Cannot find manufactured angled gutter connectors.
Home Depot has those 1.5" screws right in the same gutter section but I got some heavier duty exterior screws plus some that were slightly longer, 2" in case I need them to grip better. Installing this week.
Somewhat flimsy system. I am using for detached garage but would not consider for main house. I agree with those who suggest sliding the small piece with the drop outlet onto the gutter and cutting a corresponding opening in the gutter (as opposed to having to use the drop outlet section to connect a short piece of gutter to the long gutter piece I am also going to cut an opening in the top of the end cap that fits on the gutter extending from the drop outlet section so if the downspout clogs or is overwhelmed by water flow the excess water will come off the end instead of spilling out the entire length of the gutter. .
I've been a gutter guy for 27 years, by the time you pay for your materials at register of menards or home depot, you would have gotten about the same price with a gutter pro using seamless. Although similar not all gutter companies are the same.
The Drop Outlet eyelets for the screws are show level with the guide line. if you are using leaf guards, should the eyelets be lower? If so, by how much?
The old gutters looked perfectly fine plus this gutter system is not good for a house like that it is much much smaller by about an inch and a half all the way around compared to regular aluminum gutters that they ripped off which were totally fine even with hidden hangers!!!
Worked perfectly for me. I just wish they made an end cap that fits directly to the drop outlet without having to add a piece of gutter when the drop outlet is going to be at the very end of the gutter run. Otherwise a great DIY project when directions are followed properly.
A good video but these products are not standard Amerimax materials and your store may vary widely. For example, the colored vinyl is significantly different in its attachments than the white in our area. Watching this video will give you information hardware stores will not have on hand. Thank you for that.
how do you install this system if the wood under the drip edge is pitched inward toward the house? Is there another piece you put on first behind it to keep it propped out and straight?
I ended up hiring a professional. I bought the wedges (or shims, or fixers depending on who you ask) and i was having trouble getting the screws to catch the angled board. I even tried to make my own but they werent exactly sized so they ended up warping the gutter.
@@amante4748 they didnt work for me, i had bought a whole case of them and ended up returning them. It looks a lot easier than it is, you have to consider you are screwing into an angled bored already, and that wedge literally doubles the angle you are drilling into. You are essentially trying to get a screw to catch only a few degrees off the board you are screwing to, it rode along the wood or dug into it and broke out.
@@f_bastiat thats good to know. I didnt have time to wait around for the 2 week delivery time so just took an adjustable squangle device and laid one end on the slope and the other end moved to level on my torpedo level. checked it against my chop saw and it was 40 degrees. set my table saw for that and ripped a cedar 2x2 length and put that up and it was done for that 7 ft area.
you should never use connections, it should all be one straight shot, you can have them made to whatever feet you need aluminum or steel, these vinyl one are junk
@@divorcedwhiteman1968 For the price of steel gutters you can install the vinyl ones 3 - 4 times, you could use a silicone sealant on the connections and use more brackets in heavy ice/snow areas. Cheap to repair these systems too. There are benefits but if you need gutters and cannot afford professional grade seamless then vinyl will work but use sealant except for the expansion joints.
Saw another video where it was said drop half inch every 10 feet where as this one said 1/8 of an inch. Is there any reason why there's such a big difference?
So what happens when it's a windy rainy day and the wind blows the rain behind the gutter that's not all the way against your fascia. Plus u always go high as u can go when you have that little of shingle overhang.
IT is very possible cause today I spent 100.66 cents I bought 2 10 foot gutters and 1 10 feet pipe for the drain, (the one that goes vertically against the wall) plus accessories. 2 inner corners 2 outter corners plus some other accessories here and there, And boom, 100. that's it.
@@greghegwer4955 run the gutter through the drop outlet and then cut a hole in the gutter to allow it to drain into the downspout. Their way you end up with a bunch of connections that leak. You will also need silicone after everything is installed. I live where it can be 96 in the summer and zero in the winter and have had no problems with expansion. Search my blog for our directions. gearacres.blogspot.com/
Ryan Lavine I'm still at a loss. Am I supposed to anticipate rain and go flip it down every time? Does it collect enough weight from the rain and drop on its own? Seems gimmicky to me. I'm just going to install a rain barrel and be done.
Those "joiners" are trash. Couldn't even get them to snap together correctly at home Depot. Definitely no way you're not using caulk or some kind of sealant with these. You're going to need a lot for the extensive gaps.
I bought this product cut and fit some of the pieces started to install it and realize what trash it actually was took my losses and took back what I didn't use do yourself a favor and stay away
where do you find women that will carry the ladder off the jobsite at the end of the day? holy shit that is a 1 in a million girl, every one I know would be in the car with the AC on full blast staring at her phone as soon as we moved onto the downspouts
Perfect information! Everything went together well and now after a rain... not even a drop of water out of place. Thank you!
How are your gutters holding up? I'm worried about water leaking through the interconnects.
Thank you! Couldn’t see how the hooks went on, & was ready to take them back before seeing this video. Didn’t realize hooks went on the inside.
Just installed over 40ft, works perfectly! One huge recommendation: in the video they use standard #8 1.5" screws with a drill driver. I highly recommend getting exterior all purpose screws with a torx head and impact driver. Makes the job much easier. I swear their wood in the video is made out of marshmellow 😂
Very nicely done truly inspirational, knowledgeable and resourceful.
Nice video, watching it made up my mind to go with vinyl gutters. Thank You.
We love this system. Even though our home is a 1926 Cape Cod it blends nicely with our 8 inch wide fascia (solid PVC). You will need to use silicone at any connections. Use 18 inch spacing. You can see our installation on our blog gearacres.blogspot.com/ Also run the gutter completely through the drop outlet and finish your run. Then go back and position the drop outlet and screw it in place. You will need to cut a hole in the gutter so water can flow out. It's easy because it is plastic. If you do it their way, you end up with additional connections that can leak and shift. If you want a nice straight run don't do it their way. If your supplier offers the larger downspouts get them because the added cost is small but it increases the amount that water leaves the gutter and helps to eliminate gutter overflow.
@@janmariebrunette-hunyady1386 Could not locate your blog post on the gutter installation. Went through this year and last back to May 2018. Perhaps you should specify year and month of installation so we don't have to troll through your whole blog.
Jan 2019 for most of it. There are additional posts related to the gutters and downspouts Jun and Nov 2015. You're welcome.
@@janmariebrunette-hunyady1386 How are your gutters holding up? I'm worried about water leaking through the interconnects.
We just received a quote on friday for new "professional" installation for seamless gutters.
$3, 000. I thought, damn I have to wait a whole month to get these in, let me watch a youtube video real quick. So I found this system at lowes, and purchased everything I needed. A little over $400, but might return a few parts. Took me about 3 hours to hang the entire one story home I have. Hope for rain now to see if I did a good job or not haha..
nice!
Yea, 3 grand is thievery. Ctaftsmen today...lol....just throw a price at ya....how much per hour is 2600 divided by 3= 866 dollars an hour.
Were those craftsmen in business suits and called themselves lawyers!😂
I like the video very much. It is easy to follow. Wonderful job.!
Mary from LESOTHO
If you leave the section at the downspout as one piece you gain two very important things. Superior rigidity and two less seals to worry about. The gutter can be cut in the middle where it goes across the downspout with any of several tools, a box cutter knife would be hardest, but a hole saw will work, but leave rough edges, but an oscillating saw will make short work of that section, just cut out a rectangular area comparable to the drainage area made by having two separate pieces. Rigidity is paramount for any gutter system,as any kind of sagging will defeat the whole purpose of the system, to have a consistent fall allowing water to naturally drain away from your home and NOT settle at your foundation, possibly seeping into your basement or crawl space.
Thanks for this! I had to read it several times to “get it”, but I knew the answer was in your comment…just me, having to “see” what you meant! Finally sunk in and this is exactly what I’ll do. Thanks again!😊
This is what I did.
My vinyl gutter system only lasted 10 years under CA weather. Also the gutters are not flush to the fascia and drip edge which can cause water to miss the gutter. I had to caulk the joining seals as they leaked over time. Plus you need a lot of hooks so the vinyl gutter will not warp. I did 18 inches per instructions. Replaced this with seamless aluminum gutters.
I'm putting mine in today with 12 inches between them.
Roofing shingles should always extend 3/4 to 1 inch over the drip edge.
This shows perfectly how to install this system. Thanks for posting.
Hope the inner-joint connectors have enough downhill to let water over the interior piece. I have the same system and, problem is after 1 year having bit water constantly sitting between joints because of the gutter interior piece being so thick, they all leak. So, so sad...
They do not really show it but the drop should be at the lowest point and the 2 foot piece at the end should be higher than the drop. If they followed the chalk line they would have a puddle there.
Great observation... Ill make sure and do this to my gutters this weekend.
How much higher did you keep that outside piece to do it wouldn’t puddle there?
@@bagelbandit2054 A quarter or eighth of an inch over the two feet is all it takes to drain the water.
Great video, right to the point. 😊
Seems like there is potential for water to get in behind the gutter as there is a large air gap. Also. They did not caulk the old holes which will allow water in.
What happens if you have a metal drip edge, is the gutter to be installed under the drip edge. If so, what about the "drop " they are talking about?
Thanks for you help and instructions.
I am trying to install a similar system, using the 2x3 rectangular downspouts. The system is exactly like the video shows. I got all the pieces together at the store, the downspouts, the brackets, elbows, short pieces, clamps, etc. Did you notice I left out one item? Apparently, these stores (Home Depot, Lowes) don't realize the downspouts are the MOST important part of a gutter system!!! Because neither had that downspout adaptor section for the 2x3 downspouts that go in the gutters shown. The system shown in the video was the one I wanted to use because it matches the rest of my house gutters. They had those downspout adaptors for ALL the other size system, though!
Didn't even have to strap them down to the minivan
That’s how good the gutters are
🤣
😂😂😂
Should the gutters be hung on the drip edge or right under it and I notice there's a space in between the gutters and the fascia because of the hangers. Is that space normal?
About ready to give up, the dropout section went in fine, BUT the downspouts don't seem to fit any of the joiner pieces, without some sort of connector piece. I cannot, figure this out. So weird , look like a breeze on your video. I'm just doing a small gutter at where my house roof joins to divert run off (heavy run) into my front porch gutter and I am so tired of trying to get this vinyl thing down.
Excellent how to video
Just installed on chicken coop and 3 car open sided steel shed. Didn’t have anything before. It’s ok - easy.
But I wouldn’t use for house.
Get a professional seamless steel instal for that. You can put on gutter covers yourself if you wanna save money.
So now when it starts pouring i have to run outside and make sure that i lower my gutter
How do you join two pieces of this gutter if not at 90 degree angle? I have to go around a bay window and need to join gutter at different angles. Cannot find manufactured angled gutter connectors.
No caulk or sealing from the gutter to the drop outlet??
What type/size screw are you using to attach the gutter hooks to the house?
Home Depot has those 1.5" screws right in the same gutter section but I got some heavier duty exterior screws plus some that were slightly longer, 2" in case I need them to grip better. Installing this week.
Super video thanks
Somewhat flimsy system. I am using for detached garage but would not consider for main house. I agree with those who suggest sliding the small piece with the drop outlet onto the gutter and cutting a corresponding opening in the gutter (as opposed to having to use the drop outlet section to connect a short piece of gutter to the long gutter piece I am also going to cut an opening in the top of the end cap that fits on the gutter extending from the drop outlet section so if the downspout clogs or is overwhelmed by water flow the excess water will come off the end instead of spilling out the entire length of the gutter. .
What size and type of screws?
at the end of the video, his last downspout looks to be on a pivot? How did he do that?
That's an optional thing you can buy.
where do they sell the two piece hangers? Been to Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Amazon, and ebay.
Just picked up 7 today at a Lowes in Upstate NY. They had lots. Check their website.
I've been a gutter guy for 27 years, by the time you pay for your materials at register of menards or home depot, you would have gotten about the same price with a gutter pro using seamless. Although similar not all gutter companies are the same.
The Drop Outlet eyelets for the screws are show level with the guide line. if you are using leaf guards, should the eyelets be lower? If so, by how much?
The old gutters looked perfectly fine plus this gutter system is not good for a house like that it is much much smaller by about an inch and a half all the way around compared to regular aluminum gutters that they ripped off which were totally fine even with hidden hangers!!!
There are no seals at the drop outlet so if the downspout clogs u have a huge leak.
Then you know it's time to clean your gutters
Worked perfectly for me. I just wish they made an end cap that fits directly to the drop outlet without having to add a piece of gutter when the drop outlet is going to be at the very end of the gutter run. Otherwise a great DIY project when directions are followed properly.
Read my explanation further up. They have flaws in their directions.
The system I bought today is called the "Contemporary" design and has an end drop outlet with an endcap built in, so one piece.
They have a t connection? One where it goes 3 ways?
There weren't any screws on the drill when he installed the downspout adapters. But gotta make it look easy LOL
A good video but these products are not standard Amerimax materials and your store may vary widely. For example, the colored vinyl is significantly different in its attachments than the white in our area.
Watching this video will give you information hardware stores will not have on hand. Thank you for that.
The video is informative and well done, but lose the music.
Do you have the part number or information regarding the two-piece hook (hook and spine) system dovetail attachment?
TO421. I found them at Lowes, not carried at HD though.
how do you install this system if the wood under the drip edge is pitched inward toward the house? Is there another piece you put on first behind it to keep it propped out and straight?
I had the same problem, I'm installing a wedge to kick out the board.
I ended up hiring a professional. I bought the wedges (or shims, or fixers depending on who you ask) and i was having trouble getting the screws to catch the angled board. I even tried to make my own but they werent exactly sized so they ended up warping the gutter.
I saw their adjustable wedge for this, but its online order only for some weird reason. Looks like its perfect for the angles and is only 1.58
@@amante4748 they didnt work for me, i had bought a whole case of them and ended up returning them. It looks a lot easier than it is, you have to consider you are screwing into an angled bored already, and that wedge literally doubles the angle you are drilling into. You are essentially trying to get a screw to catch only a few degrees off the board you are screwing to, it rode along the wood or dug into it and broke out.
@@f_bastiat thats good to know. I didnt have time to wait around for the 2 week delivery time so just took an adjustable squangle device and laid one end on the slope and the other end moved to level on my torpedo level. checked it against my chop saw and it was 40 degrees. set my table saw for that and ripped a cedar 2x2 length and put that up and it was done for that 7 ft area.
I have these where I live and the seals wore out and water floods my back porch. I'm gonna see if I can order replacement brackets.
you should never use connections, it should all be one straight shot, you can have them made to whatever feet you need aluminum or steel, these vinyl one are junk
@@divorcedwhiteman1968 For the price of steel gutters you can install the vinyl ones 3 - 4 times, you could use a silicone sealant on the connections and use more brackets in heavy ice/snow areas. Cheap to repair these systems too. There are benefits but if you need gutters and cannot afford professional grade seamless then vinyl will work but use sealant except for the expansion joints.
Anybody know what size screws they're using to Anchor the dovetails into the fascia? Both length and diameter would help.
The ones sold near it are 1.5 inches. I went with torx ones. There are only a few thicknesses and the most plentiful 8? Was fine
Saw another video where it was said drop half inch every 10 feet where as this one said 1/8 of an inch. Is there any reason why there's such a big difference?
half an inch would look pretty strange. 1/8 is the way to go.
I'd follow the manufacturers directions. Not to mention, water will flow with just about any angle.
So what happens when it's a windy rainy day and the wind blows the rain behind the gutter that's not all the way against your fascia. Plus u always go high as u can go when you have that little of shingle overhang.
If the rain is blowing that much horizontally, then the gutter is not going to make much difference, even if it is tight against the fascia.
I cringed when I saw them using philips head screws. I hate those things. Give me Robertson screws!!!
Ian Scantland I HATE phillips screws too!
Got a couple of Phillip-phobes here ey?!! Lol!
gutters are cheap but accessories is what cost the money. 35 feet of gutter on two sides of my garage ran $375 for every thing, ouch!
How is that possible? A 10' run is $4.78 at Lowes. Clips, end caps, almost nothing. Are you counting a $300 cordless screwdriver?
IT is very possible cause today I spent 100.66 cents I bought 2 10 foot gutters and 1 10 feet pipe for the drain, (the one that goes vertically against the wall) plus accessories. 2 inner corners 2 outter corners plus some other accessories here and there, And boom, 100. that's it.
@@drumskas For a 40' section i spent $160
@@drumskas you might want to drive to a different place to buy your stuff.
These videos don't show installation of inside or outside corners, only straight runs.
I can't seem to locate the end cap for the drop outlet. The normal endcaps won't fit.
It’s not supposed to be the last piece. Watch the video
You need to add a short pice of the gutter. I had the same problem, they should make end caps for the down spout.
Read my post higher up ^. This is a flaw in their directions. Not all houses are the same and I do not like my downspout 2 ft from the corner.
@@greghegwer4955 run the gutter through the drop outlet and then cut a hole in the gutter to allow it to drain into the downspout. Their way you end up with a bunch of connections that leak. You will also need silicone after everything is installed. I live where it can be 96 in the summer and zero in the winter and have had no problems with expansion. Search my blog for our directions. gearacres.blogspot.com/
The inside and outside corners are not that easy
From where can I get it please ?
Are you really a pilot?
@@ChuckD59 no but I like to be
Pls from where can I bay this gutter
Lowe's
I have no fascia board or eves (which is why I need gutters...) any advice. Many houses in my area are the same.
How do you install these under the drip edge of your roof?!?!
5:34 you install it low enough. The protruding drip edge should still allow the water to drip into the gutter.
What about corners??? Are you serious?
Very hard to install the corner pc not recommended
What happens when someone trips over that extension spout on the ground ..
Same thing that happens when people trip over anything else.
@@korndawggy1801 lol
Hah! My thought exactly, then my mind wandered to making this into a Benny Hill type sketch. It's instructional but pretty bland.
They bust their ass, break the drain and sue your insurance.
the "music" is not only not needed but a serious amount of noise!!!
wait... what the heck is with that flip up deal at the end? Up/down, up/down every time it rains?
Ryan Lavine I'm still at a loss. Am I supposed to anticipate rain and go flip it down every time? Does it collect enough weight from the rain and drop on its own? Seems gimmicky to me. I'm just going to install a rain barrel and be done.
I have never seen it before (lived in WA, WY & TX). So, yeah... gimmicky sound about right.
You're meant to flip it up when you're mowing/gardening beneath it so that it's not in the way.
It's designed to trip you when you walk near the gutters looking for leaks.
@@Rikevis10 so you would rather just have the water come right down and sit next to your basement then?
not badd...but editing is needed and closeup would be great. I give you a C-
Get ote and install the downspote ote on the edge there, eh?
There is nothing easy when working overhead on a ladder.
Those "joiners" are trash. Couldn't even get them to snap together correctly at home Depot. Definitely no way you're not using caulk or some kind of sealant with these. You're going to need a lot for the extensive gaps.
👍👍
I bought this product cut and fit some of the pieces started to install it and realize what trash it actually was took my losses and took back what I didn't use do yourself a favor and stay away
👍💎
👍
Taylor Betty Thomas Larry Miller Thomas
👍💘💎
With a home like that why are they DIY?
To save money. That way they can afford a home like that and other things.
where do you find women that will carry the ladder off the jobsite at the end of the day? holy shit that is a 1 in a million girl, every one I know would be in the car with the AC on full blast staring at her phone as soon as we moved onto the downspouts
This is laughable .
Yep total crap product.
Had some for years, with a few tweaks works just fine.
i wouldn't put this cheap shit on my bird house. tried it once, water kept pooling & leaked lime a noodle strainer. keep it china
its made in canada lol
White people (eye roll emoji) ... amirite?
The stuff is pure crap
Super video thanks