Folk who might have a broken bit of cast iron gutter and replace the whole lot with plastic will always regret it. The cast iron on my house are over 60 yr old, lock down came in handy for taking the lot down and gave it the full works and the facias and soffits, now looks A1
At least you had a nice easy half round union! Nothing worse than turning up to a job to find it's some obscure osma stormline gutter that's been discontinued!! Good video!
Yep, I had the same problem, tried numerous gutter specialists, and could get the original fitting so it had to be mastic, really frustrating. But good video.
I had to do similar on the guttering on our house. I have a battery dremel with abrasive sanding drums - much easier to re-profile the gutter edge to get it to clip in. Less likely to remove chunks of finger than using a knife.
As a 70 year old home owner it is really great to understand why we have so many problems with plastic gutters. it does not help that the concreate tiles discharge a grainy sludge into the gutters. How I miss kent peg tiles, and cast iron gutters.
Hi Roger, I was quite fun for me to watch you trying to deal with such typical guttering problems. For the first twenty years of my working life this sort of long-term issue was much less common, that Marley gutter system with the notches was probably effective in controlling gutter creep which now seems to be the most common maintenance issue. I am still fascinated by the way it always goes the same way, separating the joints, on some smaller jobs I have had to resort to putting small stainless steel screws in each side of the joints so that the whole section has to move and even then it just pulls away from the outlet!. Cheers, Richard.
Spot on advice.I’ve come across the notched pvc gutters and they are the best of the pvc gutters as they don’t creep left or right due to expansion and contraction over time.Replacing the rubber gaskets is definitely the way to go for dealing with leaks at the joints
Did mine last autumn - square brown stuff that had faded and was leaking. I had tried mastic stuff in the past but never lasted long. Replaced all fittings and wiped channelling down with WD 40 to get rid of the fading. Now looks spot on.
Brilliant, just what I was looking for, I needed to know how to get the ends of the gutter to clip into the joining fitting that was too tight without snapping it, just shave a fraction off, fabulous. Thank you. All sorts of good hints and tips here.
Fantastic practical real life advice, thanks so much for your time and effort 👍👌👏. Oh the joys of mastic 'repaired' gutters, especially as you pointed out on a cold day when the plastic is sharp and brittle...
I'm in the US repairing an alumin(i)um gutter. This specific video doesn't apply. But you just earned a subscriber, sir. Thank you for the quality, straight-to-the-point content. I look forward to seeing more from you.
Great tip Roger, glad you told people to refrain from adding silicone, my joints where leaking (Floplast square) I removed the joint, cleaned it and the rubbers then put them back with a smear of vaseline, when I put the joint back I didn’t screw it to the fascia but added extra gutter clips each side so the joint was correctly in line and the joint not stressed, worked treat
Just follow manufacturers instructions as what to use. Yes, I've read vaseline, being a petroleum byproduct makes natural rubber hard.@@veronicabamfield2102
I've also noticed on the continent extensive use of metal guttering and as is so often in the UK some bright spark comes along builds to the lowest price with the inevitable effect of installing a way inferior product. My builder wanted to replace my seamless guttering with plastic and in turn charge me (I kid you not) fives times the costs of replacing one length of seamless. Never did like that builder and couldn't wait for him to get off site!
I changed all my gutters 2 years ago with no issues whatsoever. Then a housing estate was being built behind me. 4 months later all the joints have vibrated open I have pulled them back in place and 4 mount's later same again. I have CT1 the bloody things now.
I have some SS 304 square guttering here in Thailand. Many of the 'soldered' joints leak. Waste of time trying mastics and sealants as the expansion of the metal in the daily heat and sun just 'separates' any repair attempted. It cools at night and heats by day--quite a dramatic temperature change!
Perfect timing as I have this exact issue, that has ended up bring damp through to the interior wall, which I though was down to a poorly fitted kitchen, by the previous owner, which I am replacing. The gutter was completely out of the joint as over time it has shifted along. I have bought new joints and a length of guttering as I need some for another job on my garage. So I'll patch in a new section as I want to change where the down pipe comes from to allow us to fit a large water butt to be feed by it.
As a retired builder, there was a rush 20 years ago for folk to change their old iron guttering out for PVC and a rash of fly by night companies sprang up. I spent more time fixing atrocious installations usually the outlet was set as the highest point on the run!.
Excellent Roger. My gutters were redone at the same time as problems with the roof and the fascias were replaced with PVC one, the only problem was the cost of the scaffolding and new guttering, but no leaks in over 4 years since.
good video again roger ! best way to stop guttering sliding around in different tempretures is to put a screw at a high level in the guttering ! halfway between the 90 degree bend and the gutter joint !
Thanks. I'll try that on some internal 90⁰ bends that keep leaking no matter what I do - they get full blast of sun and cold winds while others are OK as in more sheltered spots
the guttering moves when the sun comes on it so for that reason put a screw at high level into the guttering either side of the bend about a metre either side ! if it still leaks after that theres an issue with the bend so put sealant into the bends joint !@@cuebj
Yes the UK has so many very poor ideas that need eliminated... Plastic guttering is just one.. Doors that are screwed to hinges rather than doors that drop down onto fixed pins... Maintenance is so much easier.. Windows that open outwards rather than inwards.. Dangerous and difficult to clean.. Lack of shutters and when they exist (on old buildings) the shutters are on the inside so the windows are not protected... Electrical wiring just draped around.. In Europe it's in plastic conduit to protect from biting rodents and it also helps avoid drilling into wires... And generally poor housing standards..
I like the tip about relieving the edge of the gutter to make the clip easier to fit. So obvious - now that I've been told! I've just replaced my leaky and warped conservatory guttering with Floplast trapezoidal because the original manufacturer went bust. This would need a whole video to describe, but as mentioned here different brands are not always compatible eg. 68mm downpipe can have 2.0mm or 2.5mm wall which is significant when mixing brands. Original guttering had a leaky joint right over the door, very irritating. By the way, when I started watching, my YT setting was at quarter speed - it's quite amusing!
The designers of these gutter fittings should be made to go up ladders on a freezing wet day and try to replace a joint like you did. If they were forced to do so maybe we'd get some better-designed brackets! Just why are the screw holes always almost inaccessible? Why do you need to notch them (thereby eliminating the one feature mentioned by our man Skill Builder - and that is the ability of the gutters to shift under expansion)? The gutters should be deeper too and the downpipes larger diameter because the current standard downpipe diameter is perfect for leaves to jam them up. The brackets should be made with a stiff ABS or metal backing so the darned things can be fixed to the facia from below the gutter. Like so many things for building the products are designed for actually building, not maintenance. (Guess which job I've recently done!)
I had an annoying drip from a joint and could just see some moss in the joint, I took it apart gave it all a good clean and the rubber seal looked ok, so put it back and is fine, no more leak..😊
I have found that if you live in a Semi-Detached house andf your neighbours roof guttering does not marry up with yours each of you take the burden of overflow .Square Drainpipes are the worst design for catching twigs and need constant with a hose pipe and a flexible rod.I had no problem with my semi-round guttering until my neighbour changed his and so i the same.
I have a friend living in Latvia, he built his own property, using the standard materials they use in that country, quality long lasting materials that included metal guttering and downpipes. Another thing that is commonplace on the continent, concealed soil stacks, one for toilet waste, and another for grey water.
Currently doing my gutters, hence why im here! I broke a few clips removing my gutter, so i got the wifes hairdryer out and put it on the high setting and have broke no more 👍 Anyone know where you can get a length of just the seals? Would be great to have spares.
Hi Charlie That is a great idea. As for the seals I find that 25 % of the brackets on the shelf are missing one or more seals so I guess that is where a lot of people go for their spare seals. It would be great if you could pick up the seals but I geuss they want to sell brackets. It the past I have used neoprenet pipe insulation cut into strips.
What I've found on our guttering was that it was leaking behind the seal along a tiny ridge left by the moulding process. If the bracket is intact you can clean it up and mastic underneath the seal. I guess that also allows for the joint to continue to move. If they are designed to move then maybe the seal should be greased as well!
I’d love to be able to replace my leaking plastic joint piece, as you have done, but I can’t get the old one off! We had new guttering, fascias and barge boards etc fitted about ten years ago, and the installers fitted some heavy-duty flashing under the tiles and into half of the gutter; I just can’t move any of the flashing, or see any way of removing/replacing the joint. Any suggestions would be appreciated…..
I had Hunter gutters around our bungalow, had a lot of trouble with joints leaking because the rubber seals are a poor design, took the whole lot down and replaced it all with Flowplast guttering.
I’ve soaked the rubber seals in white spirit and oil and it feeds the rubber and makes it supple and restores it’s uncompressed form. Haven’t had any comebacks after several years. Miserable job in the cold though and I expect the odd breakage especially on old installation. Have to say I preferred fitting cast iron on heritage buildings
Good advice about changing the gutter join as the first option, or the rubber if you can, but I’ve found that sometimes the guttering isn’t standard profile (e.g. on a conservatory) and you just can’t get the brackets as the company has disappeared. For anything other than simple curved profiles 3rd party rubber joints won’t work, you can’t get them to fit the shape properly, so the only option then is mastic. But use the right mastic. I’ve used Geocel Trade Mate Roofers seal (in black or grey) from Screwfix. This works a treat to seal gutter leaks
Had a hell of a time trying to do this recently because the bracket just wouldn't quite fit...wish I thought of notching it before I broke the little tabs...😕..
I had a leaky joint. Called a firm out and was quoted over £2000 for a complete refit and new soffits and fascias. Thought that was a bit fishy and asked around. Turned out the company is notorious for doing that. Left a Google review saying what happened and had the owner of the company come round in the early hours and slash my car tyres and put a big scratch in the side. All I needed was a £5 part and less than 10 minutes of my time.
4:23 That fall looks a bit dodgy also? All the brackets seem to be on the same spot on the fascia? The one on the far right looks far too low and is overflowing (can so it dripping)?
@@SkillBuilder There is a pool of water over your right shoulder (seen at 0:30). Seems like it was there when you started and when you finished. I would consider that a fault rather than a feature. But I guess some people might like a bird bath on their roof. Could do with fixing the drip leak at least. It’s going to drip for days after a rainfall
I tried removing the gutter adhesive and eventually there were holes in my gutter around and past the backet area. Can I cut a section of an unused gutter and attach that, and if so, how?
4:30 - that corner dripping behind you is making me laugh, i think it would be time to replace the lot if that were my house :) I've done it once here and it was great to have an all new system, guttering is not expensive
I have aluminium square type gutters and my house is semi detached. Next door have had replacement half round gutters fitted and the joint leaks. I've complained to them about it leaking on the joint. The company have been back twice to fix and it still leaks. I'm going to have a go myself, any ideas ?.
You used to be able to buy new joint seals. Not available at any drainage supplies in the UK anymore. You can still get seals off Amazon. There are some really good gutter systems out there such as Bret Martin and also the cast Aluminium stuff works just like the old cast iron. Unfortunately most of these good quality systems are not affordable to most home owners in the UK. They have to settle for the economy stuff that the market is flooded with.
I have found that sometimes the only way to stop gutter creep is to put a small self tapping screw though one of the connectors and the gutter. Not ideal but plastic gutters are useless in sunny locations.
'Vinyl Gutters' are a thing in North Am, but not highly thought of, for all the reasons Roger indicates....X2 or more. The seasonal temperature gradation for much of North Am is much greater than the UK, with consequent results.
How many times do you see a gutter with the start up tight to the under side of the tiles and the other end lower then the facias , even if you put a gutter in level theres a hole at one end the water will find it
The trouble with washing up liquid is when it dries it stops the gutter from moving and the seal becomes dislodged. I just use a silicone lubricant. You can't beat a bit of lube
HI. I live in the Philippines now, and 90% of our gutters are either aluminium, or stainless steel. I was actually thinking about changing mine to plastic, simply because of the problem with the joints. How are metal gutters usually joined in U.K. or Europe?
Yes, spring rains are on the way, thanks for the reminder - it is now on my list of "do right away" stuff - I do love your videos, always with real value...thanks!
I was going to say the same thing. Definitely Marley, I've still got a notching tool somewhere. (That said I found a Rawlplug tool from my apprenticeship).
We do have plastic gutters here (we call them eaves-troughs) ... actually they are mostly polyvinyl chloride (vinyl). Usually the middle run splice is overlapped, and a sealant is applied to stop leaks (We don't have those plastic clips, and rubber gaskets.) Most of the fittings use a sealant too. The summer is hot and the winter is cold. I've seen them in place for 20 years, and not leak.
The customary eaves-troughs here are aluminum. The overlapped joints, and all the fittings, are held together with crimps, screws, or pop-rivets. All the water tightness is done using caulking (or sealants: there are several different kinds.) I've seen that system last for 30 years, and not leak.
@@willthecat3861 I think maybe in the UK it went straight from cast iron guttering 100 years ago to plastic guttering today. One of the issues maybe is that there is a lot of variation in the types of houses with a lot of custom arrangements, this makes installing, repairing or replacing cast iron very expensive as like you have said, it needs cutting, bolting and sealing. The old cast iron is also very heavy and puts a lot of strain on the mounts, but it does look very nice though and you can buy plastic guttering that looks like the cast iron. From memory it is many many more times expensive than the standard plastic guttering like the Hunter stuff that Roger used here.
Notching the gutter is not the correct way to fix it. Buying the correct fitting is. If a new fitting really is needed. All half round gutter sizes are available in the uk, there really is no need to do this. Notches mean the radius of the new fitting will now not be the same as the gutter and will eventually lead to another problem. A new "correct" fitting can never be used with a gutter which has been notched as the gutter will now be too small for the fitting to hold the correct compression on the seal. Leaks of this nature are normally caused by the gutter moving out of the joint. This happens when the gutter expands and contracts as the tempreature changes. Or if the gutter has not been cut and fitted to the line on the fitting where it says "insert to here". Moving the gutter back into the joint by unclipping the brackets and clipping it back together will fix the problem alot better than hitting it with a crow bar and a hammer. Unfortunately this is very professionally produced example of how not to fix your gutter.
Mine has leaked for some years now. The joint is good but the gutter slides out in the hot weather, I've fixed it once but it has slid out once again. The joint is positioned right over the centre of my conservatory so I can't get to it, what a crazy place to put it. The house roof has a high pitch and accessing it from there is risky so nobody wants to fix it. You have a joint that was too tight here, I had the opposite where it was too slack, both Polypipe too and I had to double up on the seal but it still leaks a little, they are an absolute pain.
Screwing that joiner on is not easy without removing the gutter away either off or pulling apart which can be difficult. Would have liked to see him do that but at least it showed me that I had done mine wrong! (typical bodger) when butting up to the rubber cushions rather than over them to make the gutter ends reach each other.
Hi Roger, The corner of the gutter, behind you at the end of the video, is sitting too low. You can see water dripping over the top of the corner joint. Is that the next vid? :)
My neighbor had one gutter fail do to snow. The repair person said that was the one piece out of all his gutters that was plastic. Everything else was aluminum.
If I'm confident that the clips can really go over the edge of the gutter I'll spray a tiny amount of silicone lubricant on the gutters to let the clips slide into place and I'll use a pair of pincers to squeeze them on. It's also important to make sure the back of each gutter is pushed up into the bracket slots fully.
The guitter was cold and using the grips on a cold gutter can end up with a broken fitting and a 10 mile round trip for another bracket. In the summer I might have persisted
@@SkillBuilder I agree, it's one of those decisions - how much gutter to whittle away and how much pressure to apply. We lie awake at night thinking about these things ... not. 😄
I had a new roof put on my house in Scotland 🏴 I wanted to keep the old cast iron gutters but the company insisted on new plastic ones they now leak like a bloody sieve
Thanks Roger! So are those marks there to prevent the gutter moving too far and leaking? I always thought that was the mark to make sure it seals properly, but I have one gutter that moves and leaks every year
Such a PITA to deal with, unfortunately on my house one of the lengths was cut too short, so unless I can find a slightly bigger joining section, I'll have to replace the whole run. Bloody annoying
Another way your see water dripping from the gutter is a frayed membrane that don’t direct water from the last tile into the gutter. So it drips behind the gutter …. I’ve had to fit eave support trays . An L shape extrusion that slides under the bottom tile with the other edge going inside the gutter.
Folk who might have a broken bit of cast iron gutter and replace the whole lot with plastic will always regret it. The cast iron on my house are over 60 yr old, lock down came in handy for taking the lot down and gave it the full works and the facias and soffits, now looks A1
At least you had a nice easy half round union! Nothing worse than turning up to a job to find it's some obscure osma stormline gutter that's been discontinued!! Good video!
Yup, my own gutter has an obscure gutter, I couldn’t find a replacement for the leaking joint.
Yep, I had the same problem, tried numerous gutter specialists, and could get the original fitting so it had to be mastic, really frustrating. But good video.
I had to do similar on the guttering on our house. I have a battery dremel with abrasive sanding drums - much easier to re-profile the gutter edge to get it to clip in. Less likely to remove chunks of finger than using a knife.
Good to see you fanny around with this, as these simple jobs quite often turn out to be a PITA!
Now you are not taking about greek inspired breads now are you.
@@thegrandmuftiofwakandano it’s a builders term
@@sarkycutt9611 Is it really well I never.
@@thegrandmuftiofwakanda 😀
As a 70 year old home owner it is really great to understand why we have so many problems with plastic gutters. it does not help that the concreate tiles discharge a grainy sludge into the gutters. How I miss kent peg tiles, and cast iron gutters.
Hi Roger, I was quite fun for me to watch you trying to deal with such typical guttering problems. For the first twenty years of my working life this sort of long-term issue was much less common, that Marley gutter system with the notches was probably effective in controlling gutter creep which now seems to be the most common maintenance issue. I am still fascinated by the way it always goes the same way, separating the joints, on some smaller jobs I have had to resort to putting small stainless steel screws in each side of the joints so that the whole section has to move and even then it just pulls away from the outlet!.
Cheers, Richard.
My house in Germany has zinc guttering. Don't skimp on anything that protects your property from water
That is great, I have Lindab zinc on my house
Zinc or copper here in France.. Plastic gutters occasionally for a garden shed..
Zinc Gutters are fantastic, Joints are soldred not mastic. Longlife and look proper.
Yes but u make unreliable cars
@@toy838 That's why I drive a Dacia
Buenos Notches Roger. Some of the guttering on the continent puts ours to shame. Some of it is a real work of art.
Spot on advice.I’ve come across the notched pvc gutters and they are the best of the pvc gutters as they don’t creep left or right due to expansion and contraction over time.Replacing the rubber gaskets is definitely the way to go for dealing with leaks at the joints
Yes I've had those clips break in cold weather 😱 but never thought to take a notch out to help. Great tips!
Did mine last autumn - square brown stuff that had faded and was leaking. I had tried mastic stuff in the past but never lasted long. Replaced all fittings and wiped channelling down with WD 40 to get rid of the fading. Now looks spot on.
Brilliant, just what I was looking for, I needed to know how to get the ends of the gutter to clip into the joining fitting that was too tight without snapping it, just shave a fraction off, fabulous. Thank you. All sorts of good hints and tips here.
Fantastic practical real life advice, thanks so much for your time and effort 👍👌👏.
Oh the joys of mastic 'repaired' gutters, especially as you pointed out on a cold day when the plastic is sharp and brittle...
I thought he said spastic.
Another superb video on preventative maintenance. It's always better to do things In advance rather than fixing the problem after.👍👍.
gotta leave an earner for the boys tho'
I was going to say that is a flipping big step ladder; then I saw the balcony, haha!
Well done bud, thanks for all the tips and tutorials. Cheers
I'm in the US repairing an alumin(i)um gutter. This specific video doesn't apply. But you just earned a subscriber, sir. Thank you for the quality, straight-to-the-point content. I look forward to seeing more from you.
Thanks for the subscription and I hope you enjoy more of our videos.
Great tip Roger, glad you told people to refrain from adding silicone, my joints where leaking (Floplast square) I removed the joint, cleaned it and the rubbers then put them back with a smear of vaseline, when I put the joint back I didn’t screw it to the fascia but added extra gutter clips each side so the joint was correctly in line and the joint not stressed, worked treat
Better hope the seals aren't natural rubber then.
@@markrainford1219 Oh? is vaseline bad for rubber seals? what's best to use for rubber seals would you say?
Just follow manufacturers instructions as what to use. Yes, I've read vaseline, being a petroleum byproduct makes natural rubber hard.@@veronicabamfield2102
I've also noticed on the continent extensive use of metal guttering and as is so often in the UK some bright spark comes along builds to the lowest price with the inevitable effect of installing a way inferior product. My builder wanted to replace my seamless guttering with plastic and in turn charge me (I kid you not) fives times the costs of replacing one length of seamless. Never did like that builder and couldn't wait for him to get off site!
Good repair Roger. Should have mentioned that cleaning the gutter prior is essential and maybe a bit of silicone grease on the seals.
Yes, i put silicon grease on mine and it made a really good seal
I changed all my gutters 2 years ago with no issues whatsoever. Then a housing estate was being built behind me. 4 months later all the joints have vibrated open I have pulled them back in place and 4 mount's later same again. I have CT1 the bloody things now.
Heard you on radio 2 the other day, then GB news, now your up yonder fixing gutters 👏🏻
Too much exposure, I am going underground next.
@@SkillBuilder 😂😂😂
very useful info. gutters get clogged & full of silt & rubbish that needs to be cleared.
I have some SS 304 square guttering here in Thailand. Many of the 'soldered' joints leak. Waste of time trying mastics and sealants as the expansion of the metal in the daily heat and sun just 'separates' any repair attempted. It cools at night and heats by day--quite a dramatic temperature change!
Great video tips, Thanks for making it. Helped me enormously. Wish you well.
Perfect timing as I have this exact issue, that has ended up bring damp through to the interior wall, which I though was down to a poorly fitted kitchen, by the previous owner, which I am replacing. The gutter was completely out of the joint as over time it has shifted along. I have bought new joints and a length of guttering as I need some for another job on my garage. So I'll patch in a new section as I want to change where the down pipe comes from to allow us to fit a large water butt to be feed by it.
Great, interesting video, full of experience, common sense and technique. Thank you for your wisdom and clear information.
As a retired builder, there was a rush 20 years ago for folk to change their old iron guttering out for PVC and a rash of fly by night companies sprang up. I spent more time fixing atrocious installations usually the outlet was set as the highest point on the run!.
Excellent Roger. My gutters were redone at the same time as problems with the roof and the fascias were replaced with PVC one, the only problem was the cost of the scaffolding and new guttering, but no leaks in over 4 years since.
Thank goodness! (It’s always expensive when you have to get someone in to do those jobs..)👍
good video again roger ! best way to stop guttering sliding around in different tempretures is to put a screw at a high level in the guttering ! halfway between the 90 degree bend and the gutter joint !
Hi Mark
I have done that a few times. I could have mentioned it. I feel another video coming on
thank you and keep up the good work on your channel !@@SkillBuilder
Thanks. I'll try that on some internal 90⁰ bends that keep leaking no matter what I do - they get full blast of sun and cold winds while others are OK as in more sheltered spots
the guttering moves when the sun comes on it so for that reason put a screw at high level into the guttering either side of the bend about a metre either side ! if it still leaks after that theres an issue with the bend so put sealant into the bends joint !@@cuebj
Yes the UK has so many very poor ideas that need eliminated... Plastic guttering is just one..
Doors that are screwed to hinges rather than doors that drop down onto fixed pins...
Maintenance is so much easier..
Windows that open outwards rather than inwards.. Dangerous and difficult to clean..
Lack of shutters and when they exist (on old buildings) the shutters are on the inside so the windows are not protected...
Electrical wiring just draped around.. In Europe it's in plastic conduit to protect from biting rodents and it also helps avoid drilling into wires...
And generally poor housing standards..
I like the tip about relieving the edge of the gutter to make the clip easier to fit. So obvious - now that I've been told! I've just replaced my leaky and warped conservatory guttering with Floplast trapezoidal because the original manufacturer went bust. This would need a whole video to describe, but as mentioned here different brands are not always compatible eg. 68mm downpipe can have 2.0mm or 2.5mm wall which is significant when mixing brands. Original guttering had a leaky joint right over the door, very irritating.
By the way, when I started watching, my YT setting was at quarter speed - it's quite amusing!
Floplast is more forgiving than Polypipe.
Many thanks - learning a lot from your videos whilst also being reminded of old experiences.
Marley still sells a gutter notching tool. It's helped me out on a few occasions on wet and windy days.
The designers of these gutter fittings should be made to go up ladders on a freezing wet day and try to replace a joint like you did. If they were forced to do so maybe we'd get some better-designed brackets! Just why are the screw holes always almost inaccessible? Why do you need to notch them (thereby eliminating the one feature mentioned by our man Skill Builder - and that is the ability of the gutters to shift under expansion)? The gutters should be deeper too and the downpipes larger diameter because the current standard downpipe diameter is perfect for leaves to jam them up. The brackets should be made with a stiff ABS or metal backing so the darned things can be fixed to the facia from below the gutter. Like so many things for building the products are designed for actually building, not maintenance. (Guess which job I've recently done!)
Roger, Thanks for the shaving the gutter tip. Your gutter is also dripping at the end, behind you !
Yes, thanks we fixed that, it was a sagging bracket which allowed spill over.
Yet again, I am in your debt. Thanks for the knowledge, Sir!
I had an annoying drip from a joint and could just see some moss in the joint, I took it apart gave it all a good clean and the rubber seal looked ok, so put it back and is fine, no more leak..😊
Well every day is a school day, some real good advice and dodges. Thanks 😊 👍
I have found that if you live in a Semi-Detached house andf your neighbours roof guttering does not marry up with yours each of you take the burden of overflow .Square Drainpipes are the worst design for catching twigs and need constant with a hose pipe and a flexible rod.I had no problem with my semi-round guttering until my neighbour changed his and so i the same.
Nice to hear your commentary on GB News, great job Roger.
Thank you kindly
I have a friend living in Latvia, he built his own property, using the standard materials they use in that country, quality long lasting materials that included metal guttering and downpipes. Another thing that is commonplace on the continent, concealed soil stacks, one for toilet waste, and another for grey water.
Depends on what the gutters are made of og iron, galvanised, plastic, timber, lead.
Currently doing my gutters, hence why im here! I broke a few clips removing my gutter, so i got the wifes hairdryer out and put it on the high setting and have broke no more 👍
Anyone know where you can get a length of just the seals? Would be great to have spares.
Hi Charlie
That is a great idea. As for the seals I find that 25 % of the brackets on the shelf are missing one or more seals so I guess that is where a lot of people go for their spare seals.
It would be great if you could pick up the seals but I geuss they want to sell brackets. It the past I have used neoprenet pipe insulation cut into strips.
What I've found on our guttering was that it was leaking behind the seal along a tiny ridge left by the moulding process. If the bracket is intact you can clean it up and mastic underneath the seal. I guess that also allows for the joint to continue to move. If they are designed to move then maybe the seal should be greased as well!
I've wondered about greasing the seal. Is that a thing? What would one use?
I’d love to be able to replace my leaking plastic joint piece, as you have done, but I can’t get the old one off! We had new guttering, fascias and barge boards etc fitted about ten years ago, and the installers fitted some heavy-duty flashing under the tiles and into half of the gutter; I just can’t move any of the flashing, or see any way of removing/replacing the joint. Any suggestions would be appreciated…..
Nice one Rog, amazing the damage they can do if not attended to.
Thank you. Hope you sorted the drip behind you on the last shot! 😮
Of course I did
Mad you released this video yesterday because we had to do the same thing pretty much the gutter slipped over time away from the union
I'm getting vertigo just watching how relaxed you are up there 😂
I had Hunter gutters around our bungalow, had a lot of trouble with joints leaking because the rubber seals are a poor design, took the whole lot down and replaced it all with Flowplast guttering.
I’ve soaked the rubber seals in white spirit and oil and it feeds the rubber and makes it supple and restores it’s uncompressed form. Haven’t had any comebacks after several years. Miserable job in the cold though and I expect the odd breakage especially on old installation. Have to say I preferred fitting cast iron on heritage buildings
Good advice about changing the gutter join as the first option, or the rubber if you can, but I’ve found that sometimes the guttering isn’t standard profile (e.g. on a conservatory) and you just can’t get the brackets as the company has disappeared. For anything other than simple curved profiles 3rd party rubber joints won’t work, you can’t get them to fit the shape properly, so the only option then is mastic. But use the right mastic. I’ve used Geocel Trade Mate Roofers seal (in black or grey) from Screwfix. This works a treat to seal gutter leaks
Great solution.
For pvc guttering.
hi skill builder why would i need to check the level of the joint replaced when there is an existing bracket 5 inches to the right pls advise .Dave
Had a hell of a time trying to do this recently because the bracket just wouldn't quite fit...wish I thought of notching it before I broke the little tabs...😕..
I had a leaky joint. Called a firm out and was quoted over £2000 for a complete refit and new soffits and fascias. Thought that was a bit fishy and asked around. Turned out the company is notorious for doing that. Left a Google review saying what happened and had the owner of the company come round in the early hours and slash my car tyres and put a big scratch in the side. All I needed was a £5 part and less than 10 minutes of my time.
I think I can guess who the company was, bastards!
@@SkillBuilder based in Liverpool if that's any help
Use a Flowplas union as a replacement Union. Its usually an inch plus wider and more forgiving.
4:23 That fall looks a bit dodgy also? All the brackets seem to be on the same spot on the fascia? The one on the far right looks far too low and is overflowing (can so it dripping)?
A lot of people fit gutters level these days. You need more outlets but it works well
@@SkillBuilder There is a pool of water over your right shoulder (seen at 0:30). Seems like it was there when you started and when you finished. I would consider that a fault rather than a feature. But I guess some people might like a bird bath on their roof. Could do with fixing the drip leak at least. It’s going to drip for days after a rainfall
Thanks, God bless you, please make more videos like this. 👍
I tried removing the gutter adhesive and eventually there were holes in my gutter around and past the backet area. Can I cut a section of an unused gutter and attach that, and if so, how?
Tar, done it now with your help thanks very much.
4:30 - that corner dripping behind you is making me laugh, i think it would be time to replace the lot if that were my house :) I've done it once here and it was great to have an all new system, guttering is not expensive
The corner had dropped, it was easy enough to fix.
I have aluminium square type gutters and my house is semi detached. Next door have had replacement half round gutters fitted and the joint leaks. I've complained to them about it leaking on the joint. The company have been back twice to fix and it still leaks. I'm going to have a go myself, any ideas ?.
How do you fix an aluminium seamless gutter end cap?
You used to be able to buy new joint seals. Not available at any drainage supplies in the UK anymore. You can still get seals off Amazon.
There are some really good gutter systems out there such as Bret Martin and also the cast Aluminium stuff works just like the old cast iron.
Unfortunately most of these good quality systems are not affordable to most home owners in the UK. They have to settle for the economy stuff that the market is flooded with.
I have found that sometimes the only way to stop gutter creep is to put a small self tapping screw though one of the connectors and the gutter. Not ideal but plastic gutters are useless in sunny locations.
I have done that a few times and I agree that plastic gutters are not great.
Fixed mine last year! Absolutely Gutted it’s come apart again, need to get the big ladders out on a dry day!
Guttered! 🤣
'Vinyl Gutters' are a thing in North Am, but not highly thought of, for all the reasons Roger indicates....X2 or more. The seasonal temperature gradation for much of North Am is much greater than the UK, with consequent results.
How many times do you see a gutter with the start up tight to the under side of the tiles and the other end lower then the facias , even if you put a gutter in level theres a hole at one end the water will find it
I usually fit them level because it looks better and catches the water before it blows down the back
Bit of washing up liquid helps to ease the gutter into place. On a cold day, warm with a heat gun or hot water.
The trouble with washing up liquid is when it dries it stops the gutter from moving and the seal becomes dislodged. I just use a silicone lubricant. You can't beat a bit of lube
@@SkillBuilder I'll take your advice!
Aluminium guttering is great: weighs a lot less than cast iron and doesn’t have the downsides of plastic 👍
Espcially if it`s extruded onsite.
Would be good to have a video on cast iron gutters...im assuming they dont creep.
Second that
HI. I live in the Philippines now, and 90% of our gutters are either aluminium, or stainless steel. I was actually thinking about changing mine to plastic, simply because of the problem with the joints. How are metal gutters usually joined in U.K. or Europe?
Plenty of handy tips. 4:35 over your shoulder it looks like another leak on the corner piece as it was dripping away.
I fixed that one as well. It had just dropped
Yes, spring rains are on the way, thanks for the reminder - it is now on my list of "do right away" stuff - I do love your videos, always with real value...thanks!
As opposed to summer, autumn and winter rains?
@@raftonpounder6696 Well, we have dry seasons here in Ukraine's south.
i think its Marley with the cut outs especially i saw it on the deepflow version where the gutters have the notches.
Yes that notching tool is about £45.00. I knew there was a reason you never see it now
I was going to say the same thing.
Definitely Marley, I've still got a notching tool somewhere. (That said I found a Rawlplug tool from my apprenticeship).
Use Floplas Unions( for half round). The fitting is slightly wider than the average, 1"+, so makes life easier...
We do have plastic gutters here (we call them eaves-troughs) ... actually they are mostly polyvinyl chloride (vinyl). Usually the middle run splice is overlapped, and a sealant is applied to stop leaks (We don't have those plastic clips, and rubber gaskets.) Most of the fittings use a sealant too. The summer is hot and the winter is cold. I've seen them in place for 20 years, and not leak.
The customary eaves-troughs here are aluminum. The overlapped joints, and all the fittings, are held together with crimps, screws, or pop-rivets. All the water tightness is done using caulking (or sealants: there are several different kinds.) I've seen that system last for 30 years, and not leak.
@@willthecat3861 I think maybe in the UK it went straight from cast iron guttering 100 years ago to plastic guttering today. One of the issues maybe is that there is a lot of variation in the types of houses with a lot of custom arrangements, this makes installing, repairing or replacing cast iron very expensive as like you have said, it needs cutting, bolting and sealing. The old cast iron is also very heavy and puts a lot of strain on the mounts, but it does look very nice though and you can buy plastic guttering that looks like the cast iron. From memory it is many many more times expensive than the standard plastic guttering like the Hunter stuff that Roger used here.
Notching the gutter is not the correct way to fix it. Buying the correct fitting is. If a new fitting really is needed. All half round gutter sizes are available in the uk, there really is no need to do this. Notches mean the radius of the new fitting will now not be the same as the gutter and will eventually lead to another problem. A new "correct" fitting can never be used with a gutter which has been notched as the gutter will now be too small for the fitting to hold the correct compression on the seal.
Leaks of this nature are normally caused by the gutter moving out of the joint. This happens when the gutter expands and contracts as the tempreature changes. Or if the gutter has not been cut and fitted to the line on the fitting where it says "insert to here". Moving the gutter back into the joint by unclipping the brackets and clipping it back together will fix the problem alot better than hitting it with a crow bar and a hammer.
Unfortunately this is very professionally produced example of how not to fix your gutter.
Mine has leaked for some years now. The joint is good but the gutter slides out in the hot weather, I've fixed it once but it has slid out once again. The joint is positioned right over the centre of my conservatory so I can't get to it, what a crazy place to put it. The house roof has a high pitch and accessing it from there is risky so nobody wants to fix it. You have a joint that was too tight here, I had the opposite where it was too slack, both Polypipe too and I had to double up on the seal but it still leaks a little, they are an absolute pain.
what happened to good old cast iron gutters
Screwing that joiner on is not easy without removing the gutter away either off or pulling apart which can be difficult. Would have liked to see him do that but at least it showed me that I had done mine wrong! (typical bodger) when butting up to the rubber cushions rather than over them to make the gutter ends reach each other.
What is the cheapest style of shed?
good luck with always finding a matching profile if going the replacement fitting option, cutting a notch yes, but adding more if too small ... 😱
Tip _in cold weather put fittings in very hot water for several minutes.
Marley made the gutters you had to notch, had a notching tool back in the day.
They still have it but it is £48.00
By making notches on the gutter will it not prevent expansion at the joint?
The notch is wider than the clip
Metal gutters on the continent are because of regular heavy snow coverage.
Another job fixed , take care on those ladders Roger
Hi Roger, The corner of the gutter, behind you at the end of the video, is sitting too low. You can see water dripping over the top of the corner joint.
Is that the next vid? :)
Floplast have a longer insertion length for the gutter than Polypipe. They stay in better when the sun gets on them.
My neighbor had one gutter fail do to snow. The repair person said that was the one piece out of all his gutters that was plastic. Everything else was aluminum.
Where can I get a gutter like that in the US? Excellent job, as always.
If I'm confident that the clips can really go over the edge of the gutter I'll spray a tiny amount of silicone lubricant on the gutters to let the clips slide into place and I'll use a pair of pincers to squeeze them on. It's also important to make sure the back of each gutter is pushed up into the bracket slots fully.
The guitter was cold and using the grips on a cold gutter can end up with a broken fitting and a 10 mile round trip for another bracket. In the summer I might have persisted
@@SkillBuilder I agree, it's one of those decisions - how much gutter to whittle away and how much pressure to apply. We lie awake at night thinking about these things ... not. 😄
I had a new roof put on my house in Scotland 🏴 I wanted to keep the old cast iron gutters but the company insisted on new plastic ones they now leak like a bloody sieve
Nothing nicer on a cold day especially when they snap in great on your fingers
I have that problem - can't find a builder.
Thanks Roger! So are those marks there to prevent the gutter moving too far and leaking? I always thought that was the mark to make sure it seals properly, but I have one gutter that moves and leaks every year
No the marks won't stop it creeping. It is just the expansion allowance
@@SkillBuilder thanks Roger
Such a PITA to deal with, unfortunately on my house one of the lengths was cut too short, so unless I can find a slightly bigger joining section, I'll have to replace the whole run. Bloody annoying
Another way your see water dripping from the gutter is a frayed membrane that don’t direct water from the last tile into the gutter. So it drips behind the gutter …. I’ve had to fit eave support trays . An L shape extrusion that slides under the bottom tile with the other edge going inside the gutter.