Excellent video. You could teach some of the other car guys something about how to make a quality video. It doesnt matter how good a teacher is if the student doesnt learn. You conveyed these concepts clearly, patiently and thoroughly. Great work 👍
Thanks for your informative and clear video. I have never done anything more involved than change oil and filter, lube and change air cleaners prior to this. Even I was able to understand what to do, and I fixed my John Deere LA110 that had started to blow blue smoke. Replaced the head gasket, cleaned up the head and piston, adjusted the valves and got it all back together with no left over hardware! It even starts better now. MUCH appreciated!
Very well presented. I have to do this job tomorrow. 134 hours on mine. All they make today is disposable junk. Doesn't matter if you buy from Home depot, lowes or the dealer either. All are the same.
If you go to the dealership and look at am x series Deere completely different. Use Kawasaki engines and completely built in house by Deere. Most people won't spend 3 grand and up for a mower though so Deere has to have these.
Hey there, question. I completed the job to the letter, my mower will turn over but no fire. Would that be a timing issue? Im going out to the garage to fiddle with it today. Im getting spark, looking at the fuel solenoid next.
Before anyone tries this you will need the right size torx, t20 I think. Better in a jackknife set for torque when you adjust the valves. Also a 3/8 drive allen wrench socket and short extension for exhaust pipe. Obviously torquing the head is the part you have to get right so you will need a small torque wrench.
My mower just hit about 20yrs…starting smoking end of summer.. what’s the cost of replacement and where purchase ? I’m no mechanic so this video made me think I can do it. Thanks !
Its insane the unit only had 80 hours. Im working on a ztrak 425 at work with only 140 hours with the same issue. Im a mechanic in lawn and garden at Reynolds John Deere in Indiana.
I did this to my D105 seemed easy, everything went as planned. But will not start now. Turns over fine, i have spark but will not start. Im getting fuel, i put a new solenoid on carb. Trying to figure out if i missed something.
@@DIYManiacJohnP i must not have done it correctly. I just watched another briggs and stratton video and it said if thats off it may not fire. Ill go back in and adjust those again. Thanks
@@DIYManiacJohnP i got it. The exhaust valve wasn’t moving, the push rod wasnt seated just right i guess. I went through it again and it fired right up. Running great! Thanks.
I have heard the VTwin briggs & stratton engines are much better, as in they do not have the cam shaft or head gasket problems that the single cylinder engines have. Can someone confirm this?
Nice video Also I figured out a way around the John Deer valve driven fuel pump SCAM, 1 the valves wear out as well so they use that to get you to commit to an engine rebuild to me that is a scam even if you bend the fuel pump arm a bit it still will only last a couple of cuts, So, I fuel Injected it 😉. Runs smoother and during this I found out that their hoods SUCK lol they are cheap ugg.
I did this repair project today and now the mower won't start. I turn the key, and it either seizes up right away, or it tries to crank for a fraction of a second and then it seizes. What should I check? Valve clearances too tight? I've never done this before so I'm wondering if I did too much drag on the feeler gauges.
@@DIYManiacJohnP As far as I know--I've never done it before. I turned the engine by hand until the screwdriver came out to the max, then I marked 1/4" past that and set the valves with it like that. How much play should they have with the feeler gauges? My interpretation of "slight drag" may be a bit heavy handed?
@@DIYManiacJohnP I took another crack at this today, and that was indeed the problem! Turns out I had what I thought was TDC but apparently I was not on the compression stroke. When I re-rotated the engine today and made sure I'd seen the exhaust vale go down and up, then the intake valve go down and up, then measuring with a screwdriver--the intake valve rocker was way loose. I readjusted the gap, turned it a few times and rechecked it, all good to go. It cranked the first time and runs smooth now. No more blue smoke when I engage the blades. I was also happy that I was able to turn the engine by hand just by placing my hand on top of the screen, versus taking that entire cover assembly back off!! Thanks for your help--both the great video and replying so quickly to my question. Great job!!
For everyone in the comments complaining about head gasket failure please stop blaming Deere. They did not build the engine, it's because it's a junk Briggs.
Thank you so much for this video. It is extremely helpful. I screwed up though and I'd like to know if I'm totally f-ed. I'd never used a torgue wench and I bought one that was likely too large for this project. In tightening on of the bolts it broke and I can't get it out of one of the holes. So I can only use 7 of the 8 bolts. Will this still work?
Nicholas Lue unfortunately you will need to remove that broken bolt. To ensure even crushing of the head gasket all the bolts are needed for there to be no leaks.
Everything went smoothly and I followed everything you did but for some reason it still smoked. 😩 I just don’t think that the rocker housing is pressing down on the gasket fully. Have to let the professionals look at it.
@@DIYManiacJohnP Haven’t tried the fuel yet, I’ll tried that yet. I had some gas sitting for along time in the shed regular unleaded. Wonder if gas might have been dirty with lots of sediment. Thanks for your response buddy.
@@DIYManiacJohnP yes checked valve lash I got um at .005 both In and exhaust Have caps on valve stems like commented on I m thinking maybe the pushrods are inserted wrong Idk I’m thinking maybe a valve job But I twist them and they don’t move So I think their good One thing I didn’t do was machine the cylinder head I cleaned piston and all surfaces I’m scratching my head Thinking of tearing everything down check rd and cap?????
I have a L110 with a Koehler engine 20 yrs with over 300 hours, no smoking whatsoever. I will never buy B&s engine, since they’re bankruptcy they have went to hell
I think you have a problem with your description of finding top dead center(TDC), in preparation for setting valve clearance. There are actually 2 TDCs. One for the compression stroke and one for the exhaust stroke. You find the compression stroke's TDC, you should turn your engine clockwise (not counter clockwise as you mentioned, you want to go in the direction that the motor runs) until it opens the intake value (the bottom valve), and then closes it. While doing this use the screwdriver to feel when the piston is all the way to the top. Then continue to turn motor till piston goes down about a quarter of an inch as you described.
Absolutely great video. Helped me tremendously solve the problem. Time for Biggs and Stratton the redesign that casting area between the pushrod cavity and the cylinder and add an extra bolt so this doesn't occur ever again.
Great post , saved me a bundle . Just one Tip if You DON"T want it to HAPPEN again SOON ! The Head Bolts Should Be Replaced at the same time you replace the gasket . The Mechanics at the Dealer told me this, and said if you don't replace the bolts you will be doing the job again in a couple of weeks . He Told me they learned that The HARD WAY .
@@DIYManiacJohnP Win some lose some! btw, the Deere I have needs its 3rd head gasket at 110hrs! I have a 1992 Craftman's 12.5 with probably 750-100hrs. Orig head gasket, tight as a drum. Edith Bunker had it right......
Here's a tip for folks replacing the head gasket on an LA110. Adjust the valves at TDC, not 1/4" back from TDC. I tried 1/4 back on mine the first time and it wouldn't crank and was very rough when trying. I readjusted the valves at TDC and it cranked like a new one. Anyway, thank you for the helpful video.
Great video, bought a new E100 with that engine, mine hasn't run right since new, Jonh Deer has had it for 5 weeks so far and only 13 hours on it. Shame that there build quality has fallen so bad. My last john deer was a LX 173 with over 1000 hours on it and no engine problems, dont think this will make it to 50 hours.
My LA110…is smoking and my grandson thought he had caused the problem just like your son. I am going to attempt it this weekend. Thanks for sharing your expertise with all of us.
Quick question on finding top dead center (TDC). Maybe this is obvious once you get started, but how exactly do you turn the engine? And from what perspective is counterclockwise? Pardon if this is obvious once you get started -- I just like to do a complete walkthrough in my head before loosening the first bolt, putting in the first nail, et cetera. Any link to this engine manual? Have a D105Auto that's showing all the signs of a bad head gasket. Truly, one of THE best tutorial videos I've ever watched.
With the spark plug removed the engine turns quite easily. You can turn it from the top with your hand. Perspective is looking down at the engine. Thanks for the kind comment and for watching.
I did this at the very beginning of last summer and it lasted 1 year and now I have to do it again….any tips on what I can do to make the head gasket last longer ? Should I replace all the bolts on the head?
Unfortunately, there’s not much you could really do it all comes down to making sure the initial installation is done right. Also, remembering these are air cooled engines so making sure that there’s no debris in the upper fan or around the engine will help promote better cooling and less than the chance of the head gasket going bad.
@mattb7449 I don’t think you have to be that safe on it. I’ve put close to 75 hours since my rebuild and I cut grass for about an hour each time and have not had a failure.
How did you get those parts so clean! Yes, the deere shop says to use new bolts on the head and to use copper tech gasket maker spray on the gasket, FYI
Thanks for this video, John. This was exactly what appeared to be wrong with my D105. Popped open the head gasket and it was the exact same problem. I put everything back together with your guidance and the engine did fire up. However, it's running rough and it's spewing some white smoke. I shut it down right away. I did notice that I had to turn the key a couple times - like it was cycling through until it got to a place where it would crank. The only thing I can think of is I didn't set the valves properly or missed TDC by more than your 1/4 inch instructions. FYI, my engine is the B&G 31R977. Thoughts?
White smoke indicates oil. Does it create the smoke all the time? Does the smoke smell like oil? If the valves were set too tight, this could cause a hard start issue.
Just a question. If it's a head gasket issue, would it smoke when hot, and not when the engine is cold? Dad just picked up a LA115 with the 19 HP engine and it smokes when it's hot, but runs perfect when it's cold.
I completed the head gasket replacement as per your video, however, the engine will not start now. Is incorrect gapping of rockers a possibility or could it be something else?
Did you make sure it was on the compression stroke when you set the clearance/gap at Top Dead Center? Compression stroke is when both valves are closed
@@DIYManiacJohnP I don’t think I am getting a spark at the plug. If so and fuel is feeding then I’ll need to check the valves as you explained as I am questioning if I had them correctly.
Hey John, I am going through the same problem on my mower and my question is, can I use the torque specs in tightening the bolts on my E100 because I can’t find anything in my manual, please advise and thank you!!!
My bad guys, that is the fuel pump on the side of the engine cover and not the breather.
My brother and I just did this to his John Deere. Thank you so much for making the video so detailed. The perfect tutorial.
Excellent video. You could teach some of the other car guys something about how to make a quality video. It doesnt matter how good a teacher is if the student doesnt learn. You conveyed these concepts clearly, patiently and thoroughly. Great work 👍
dragonlee1000 wow!!! Thank you so much
Thanks for your informative and clear video. I have never done anything more involved than change oil and filter, lube and change air cleaners prior to this. Even I was able to understand what to do, and I fixed my John Deere LA110 that had started to blow blue smoke. Replaced the head gasket, cleaned up the head and piston, adjusted the valves and got it all back together with no left over hardware! It even starts better now. MUCH appreciated!
So happy to hear this. Thanks for watching.
One of the best how to vids I've seen. My 110 is 20 yrs old and smoking. Hopefully this will fix it.
Very well presented. I have to do this job tomorrow. 134 hours on mine. All they make today is disposable junk. Doesn't matter if you buy from Home depot, lowes or the dealer either. All are the same.
If you go to the dealership and look at am x series Deere completely different. Use Kawasaki engines and completely built in house by Deere. Most people won't spend 3 grand and up for a mower though so Deere has to have these.
My LA125 has over 800 hours, getting ready to try this too!
Well done explaining the procedure I'll look forward for more of your videos.😊
Thank you for the kind words
Head gasket blew on my John Deere Z225, M# ending 64XXX. This video was perfect. Runs like new.
Thank you so much for watching and I’m happy the video helped
Thank you so much for your great video. I followed your instructions and all is now good again!
Glad it helped and thank you for watching
Video was very well done. I had a briggs that smoked during start up. I think you may have explained the problem.
Thank you great video step by step for a beginner.
Very nice work on this video. Big help and it’s greatly appreciated.
Good video. I'm very confident in the process now. About to go through mine
Just completed. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching and happy to hear the video was useful
Thanks. I am going to do my D100 this week.
Excellent video. Ill be doing mine soon. Thank you
Hey there, question. I completed the job to the letter, my mower will turn over but no fire. Would that be a timing issue? Im going out to the garage to fiddle with it today. Im getting spark, looking at the fuel solenoid next.
If you ever mix them up, the difference in the push rods is the intake is aluminum and the exhaust is stainless.
Before anyone tries this you will need the right size torx, t20 I think. Better in a jackknife set for torque when you adjust the valves. Also a 3/8 drive allen wrench socket and short extension for exhaust pipe. Obviously torquing the head is the part you have to get right so you will need a small torque wrench.
My mower just hit about 20yrs…starting smoking end of summer.. what’s the cost of replacement and where purchase ? I’m no mechanic so this video made me think I can do it. Thanks !
Thanks alot. Worked out great
Its insane the unit only had 80 hours. Im working on a ztrak 425 at work with only 140 hours with the same issue. Im a mechanic in lawn and garden at Reynolds John Deere in Indiana.
Other than that issue the D-series has been amazing.
My JD D110 Intek gasket failed at 40 hours.
Are you a teacher buy trade? Because you explain in such great detail great job thanks..
Shane Miller I am not but thank you so much for the kind words
Nice video what did you use to clean the piston and the valves
Thanks. Brake cleaner and a soft scrubbing pad
I did this to my D105 seemed easy, everything went as planned. But will not start now. Turns over fine, i have spark but will not start. Im getting fuel, i put a new solenoid on carb. Trying to figure out if i missed something.
We’re you sure to properly set the valve lash?
@@DIYManiacJohnP i must not have done it correctly. I just watched another briggs and stratton video and it said if thats off it may not fire. Ill go back in and adjust those again. Thanks
@@makes123 make sure when adjusting you are at TDC on the compression stroke. Watch my vid again closely for the tips I give
@@DIYManiacJohnP i got it. The exhaust valve wasn’t moving, the push rod wasnt seated just right i guess. I went through it again and it fired right up. Running great! Thanks.
@@makes123 that is great!!!
Thank you great video
Frank Branker SR thank you for watching!
Top is exh steel rod and gap .006>>>>>> bottom is intake, alum rod and gap is .004. Always ccw t20 torg screw first.
i was looking for a videos like this for a while thanks! How many hours had your machine at the time of the head gasket replacement?
JDdriver95 thanks for watching. It had 80 hours
head gasket replacement at 80 hours wow..that´s pretty early..how did you notice that the head gasket was bad?
JDdriver95 started smoking pretty bad
thank you so much I have to do mine.
I have heard the VTwin briggs & stratton engines are much better, as in they do not have the cam shaft or head gasket problems that the single cylinder engines have. Can someone confirm this?
Nice video Also I figured out a way around the John Deer valve driven fuel pump SCAM, 1 the valves wear out as well so they use that to get you to commit to an engine rebuild to me that is a scam even if you bend the fuel pump arm a bit it still will only last a couple of cuts, So, I fuel Injected it 😉. Runs smoother and during this I found out that their hoods SUCK lol they are cheap ugg.
I just did this to my d110. But it won't start now. It ran strong before Changing the head gasket but now nothing? Idk why
I did this repair project today and now the mower won't start. I turn the key, and it either seizes up right away, or it tries to crank for a fraction of a second and then it seizes. What should I check? Valve clearances too tight? I've never done this before so I'm wondering if I did too much drag on the feeler gauges.
Sounds like valve clearance. Did you make sure you were at TDC when you adjusted them?
I would take everything apart and check
@@DIYManiacJohnP As far as I know--I've never done it before. I turned the engine by hand until the screwdriver came out to the max, then I marked 1/4" past that and set the valves with it like that. How much play should they have with the feeler gauges? My interpretation of "slight drag" may be a bit heavy handed?
Did you make sure it was on the compression stroke (both valves closed)?
@@aec618 most on the rocker side
@@DIYManiacJohnP I took another crack at this today, and that was indeed the problem! Turns out I had what I thought was TDC but apparently I was not on the compression stroke. When I re-rotated the engine today and made sure I'd seen the exhaust vale go down and up, then the intake valve go down and up, then measuring with a screwdriver--the intake valve rocker was way loose. I readjusted the gap, turned it a few times and rechecked it, all good to go. It cranked the first time and runs smooth now. No more blue smoke when I engage the blades.
I was also happy that I was able to turn the engine by hand just by placing my hand on top of the screen, versus taking that entire cover assembly back off!!
Thanks for your help--both the great video and replying so quickly to my question. Great job!!
For everyone in the comments complaining about head gasket failure please stop blaming Deere. They did not build the engine, it's because it's a junk Briggs.
How is your JD now did this fix last
Still going strong!
Thank you so much for this video. It is extremely helpful. I screwed up though and I'd like to know if I'm totally f-ed. I'd never used a torgue wench and I bought one that was likely too large for this project. In tightening on of the bolts it broke and I can't get it out of one of the holes. So I can only use 7 of the 8 bolts. Will this still work?
Nicholas Lue unfortunately you will need to remove that broken bolt. To ensure even crushing of the head gasket all the bolts are needed for there to be no leaks.
@DIYManiacJohnP if this happens what's the best way to remove the headless bolt?
Everything went smoothly and I followed everything you did but for some reason it still smoked. 😩 I just don’t think that the rocker housing is pressing down on the gasket fully. Have to let the professionals look at it.
Sorry to hear that
Do you have to drain the oil prior to removing the cylinder head?
No
@@DIYManiacJohnP Thank you!
Wow you would think someone would mention hey ya don't have to take the valve cover off ya know to save putting new silicone on n stuff ya know
Thanks!
I did the whole process step by step and it didn't turn on
Alejandro García I had same problem but found I reversed the fuel intake and breather tube. Put it on correctly and fired right up.
Hello buddy, my d105 recently started knocking when sitting, when engaging still shakes. Any suggestions, thanks
Hey! When you say knocking… are you referring the engine knock?
@@DIYManiacJohnP Started shaking and going slow. When I turn it on it shakes and knocks, when I engage the blade it sound worse. Thanks
@@letstalk6007 I would start with the basics, fuel, spark, compression and air.
Sounds like she could be possibly fuel starved
@@DIYManiacJohnP Haven’t tried the fuel yet, I’ll tried that yet. I had some gas sitting for along time in the shed regular unleaded. Wonder if gas might have been dirty with lots of sediment. Thanks for your response buddy.
@@letstalk6007 fresh gas will be a great start!
Just did this very thing
Wasn’t knocking before I switched out gasket
Put it all back together
Now it knocks
Any input anyone?
Did you properly gap the valves / rockers?
@@DIYManiacJohnP yes checked valve lash
I got um at .005 both
In and exhaust
Have caps on valve stems like commented on
I m thinking maybe the pushrods are inserted wrong
Idk
I’m thinking maybe a valve job
But I twist them and they don’t move
So I think their good
One thing I didn’t do was machine the cylinder head
I cleaned piston and all surfaces
I’m scratching my head
Thinking of tearing everything down check rd and cap?????
I have a L110 with a Koehler engine 20 yrs with over 300 hours, no smoking whatsoever. I will never buy B&s engine, since they’re bankruptcy they have went to hell
Head gasket failed on my E100 after 18 hours
Don't run it too hot or long. #1 culprit of Head Gasket = Hot Engines.
I think you have a problem with your description of finding top dead center(TDC), in preparation for setting valve clearance. There are actually 2 TDCs. One for the compression stroke and one for the exhaust stroke. You find the compression stroke's TDC, you should turn your engine clockwise (not counter clockwise as you mentioned, you want to go in the direction that the motor runs) until it opens the intake value (the bottom valve), and then closes it. While doing this use the screwdriver to feel when the piston is all the way to the top. Then continue to turn motor till piston goes down about a quarter of an inch as you described.
This motor does run counterclockwise though..when engaging the starter it spins the flywheel counter clockwise..I was confused by the fact it did this
Is it required to take the push rods out?
Makes life much easier
one question, What did you use to clean the piston and valves. You got them spotless. I assume some sort of carb cleaner and a brush.
Carb cleaner and a soft wire brush
Absolutely great video. Helped me tremendously solve the problem. Time for Biggs and Stratton the redesign that casting area between the pushrod cavity and the cylinder and add an extra bolt so this doesn't occur ever again.
Great post , saved me a bundle . Just one Tip if You DON"T want it to HAPPEN again SOON ! The Head Bolts Should Be Replaced at the same time you replace the gasket . The Mechanics at the Dealer told me this, and said if you don't replace the bolts you will be doing the job again in a couple of weeks . He Told me they learned that The HARD WAY .
nova scarity very good info. I was unsure if the bolts were a one time torque application or not.
Thanks John for the detailed coverage of this procedure. Gonna go give it a whirl.
wait, did you win the softball game?! Thanks for the video, should help my 110 stop smoking like George Burns!
We lost!
@@DIYManiacJohnP Win some lose some! btw, the Deere I have needs its 3rd head gasket at 110hrs! I have a 1992 Craftman's 12.5 with probably 750-100hrs. Orig head gasket, tight as a drum. Edith Bunker had it right......
valve spring are so weak on briggs u can just lift them off with your fingers no need to remove the lockers
Thank you for this instructional video. Excellent!
Hey thanks great video 🙂👍🏻👍🏻
Here's a tip for folks replacing the head gasket on an LA110. Adjust the valves at TDC, not 1/4" back from TDC. I tried 1/4 back on mine the first time and it wouldn't crank and was very rough when trying. I readjusted the valves at TDC and it cranked like a new one. Anyway, thank you for the helpful video.
Great video, bought a new E100 with that engine, mine hasn't run right since new, Jonh Deer has had it for 5 weeks so far and only 13 hours on it. Shame that there build quality has fallen so bad. My last john deer was a LX 173 with over 1000 hours on it and no engine problems, dont think this will make it to 50 hours.
John Deere did not build this lol you have to look at the x series for it to be an actual Deere.
My LA110…is smoking and my grandson thought he had caused the problem just like your son. I am going to attempt it this weekend. Thanks for sharing your expertise with all of us.
Great video! Well done!
I have an s110. The only thing different was the bolts for the head, which were a 1/2 inch.
Thank you so much for the video.
Thank you for watching
Quick question on finding top dead center (TDC). Maybe this is obvious once you get started, but how exactly do you turn the engine? And from what perspective is counterclockwise? Pardon if this is obvious once you get started -- I just like to do a complete walkthrough in my head before loosening the first bolt, putting in the first nail, et cetera.
Any link to this engine manual? Have a D105Auto that's showing all the signs of a bad head gasket.
Truly, one of THE best tutorial videos I've ever watched.
With the spark plug removed the engine turns quite easily. You can turn it from the top with your hand.
Perspective is looking down at the engine.
Thanks for the kind comment and for watching.
Othe than the fuel pump mis-half, great video! And thats coming from an actual John Deere Employee and mechanic in lawn & garden!(-: great video man!
Wow thank you so much!!! That means a lot. I want to do my best to help others but also try and me the most accurate I can.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks
Must be lucky I got 225 hrs and no issues on my d105
Don't run it too hot or long. #1 culprit of Head Gasket = Hot Engines.
I did this at the very beginning of last summer and it lasted 1 year and now I have to do it again….any tips on what I can do to make the head gasket last longer ? Should I replace all the bolts on the head?
Unfortunately, there’s not much you could really do it all comes down to making sure the initial installation is done right. Also, remembering these are air cooled engines so making sure that there’s no debris in the upper fan or around the engine will help promote better cooling and less than the chance of the head gasket going bad.
Thanks. Sounds like I need to run her for about 20 mins max and then let cool
Until I’m finished. Crazy these things blow at this rate.
@mattb7449 I don’t think you have to be that safe on it. I’ve put close to 75 hours since my rebuild and I cut grass for about an hour each time and have not had a failure.
How did you get those parts so clean! Yes, the deere shop says to use new bolts on the head and to use copper tech gasket maker spray on the gasket, FYI
Thanks for this video, John. This was exactly what appeared to be wrong with my D105. Popped open the head gasket and it was the exact same problem. I put everything back together with your guidance and the engine did fire up. However, it's running rough and it's spewing some white smoke. I shut it down right away. I did notice that I had to turn the key a couple times - like it was cycling through until it got to a place where it would crank. The only thing I can think of is I didn't set the valves properly or missed TDC by more than your 1/4 inch instructions. FYI, my engine is the B&G 31R977. Thoughts?
White smoke indicates oil. Does it create the smoke all the time? Does the smoke smell like oil?
If the valves were set too tight, this could cause a hard start issue.
Just a question. If it's a head gasket issue, would it smoke when hot, and not when the engine is cold? Dad just picked up a LA115 with the 19 HP engine and it smokes when it's hot, but runs perfect when it's cold.
Yes, thats generally thr head gasket. Leaks worse once it gets hot
I completed the head gasket replacement as per your video, however, the engine will not start now. Is incorrect gapping of rockers a possibility or could it be something else?
Did you make sure it was on the compression stroke when you set the clearance/gap at Top Dead Center? Compression stroke is when both valves are closed
@@DIYManiacJohnP I don’t think I am getting a spark at the plug. If so and fuel is feeding then I’ll need to check the valves as you explained as I am questioning if I had them correctly.
Hey John, I am going through the same problem on my mower and my question is, can I use the torque specs in tightening the bolts on my E100 because I can’t find anything in my manual, please advise and thank you!!!
Is your E100 powered by the B&S 17.5 HP?
The engine model is B&S 31, not sure about the hp, looking at the manual now...
Head gasket just failed on my JD 105d after 40 hours.......
Very detailed video, thanks for posting.