Just replaced my D105 engine today! This video prepared me well to take on the task, so THANKS! A few comments: 1) Throttle linkage can be adjusted with an 8mm socket on an extender, if you don’t have a T25 torx. 2) Install the old muffler on the new engine before dropping it in, or you’ll have to remove front of the chassis assembly (that holds the hood bracket as well) to get it in afterwards. My muffler pipe required a 6 mm hex wrench to attach it. 3) It’s much easier to remove the new engine’s plastic cover *before* installation (you have to remove it to stop the fan assembly from rotating while attaching the drive spindle from below). 4) The passing advice to start the self-tapping screws on the bench was critical! Made life much easier. This video allowed me to place a $620 brand new John Deere OEM engine (purchased on eBay rather than purchase a new tractor for $2399, and it took about 3 hours.
Fantastic video!!! It made the Job 100 time easier and faster. Got a great deal on a used engine (135 hours) and began this engine swap at 5:30 last night. At 7:30 the job was complete and my D105 is running again! The engine I found was at a small engine repair shop, I got such a good deal because I removed the engine off an old tractor that was in his shop. It took me 30 minutes to remove it (thanks to the video) and he was very impressed. only small snag is I did struggle (briefly) on which of the many holes in the frame to bolt through. Minor 5 minute delay.
When I change an engine I usually drop the deck completely off and pull it out from underneath the mower. This gives me extra space underneath. Dropping the front of the deck works but I like lots of elbow room. LOL It also lets me examine the often neglected parts like the drive & deck belts & idler pulleys, the blades, spindle bearings, belt take up springs, blade brakes, transaxle, drive brake adjustment, Etc. I can flip the deck over and clean it out quickly with the pressure washer too. I fluid film the unsealed wiring connections that're open to the elements to keep the green puss ftom taking over. An oz of prevention and all.
It looks like there's an blocking hole in the pulley you can use that to hold it still when removing the nut. You can drain the fuel tank at the end of season by disconnecting the fuel line at the filter and blowing gently into the fuel cap to induce siphoning.
How is that single cylinder engine holding up? The Briggs single that MDI uses has a known issue with the camshaft. They put a compression release on it and it is known to fail. I am replaing my single with a v-twin.
i have the same mower and the Engine turns over but does not start I added new oil new spark plug new gas new fuel filter and a carburetor clean but it does not Get gas from the carburetor to the engine the mower's been sitting for about two years Outside What would you do
At 13:56 of this video - What is the thick black cable and (black box thingy) called? It's shown directly to the right of your hand. Looks like we had some mice activity that chewed into the wiring of that black cable and will need to replace. We so appreciate your informative videos! Thank you.
If your referring to the cable that runs to the front, that’s the ignition coil (spark plug wire) and the black box is the coil pack. So the box/pack is what sends the electrical signal/pulse through the wire so the spark plug can fire, thus initiating the combustion stroke. If that’s chewed you can grab a new setup pretty cheap, under $25 if you don’t mind aftermarket.
I literally just got off the phone with tractor service center and they told me the tractor my wasn't worth fixing because of the engine. I have a L120 that was left at my house by the previous owner. I was thinking, I can change the engine myself. Can't be that hard on a ride mower. I know you said your friend hooked you up. I was just wondering who he reached out to get the engine. Or if know of any places I can check to get a new engine for my lawnmower.
My friend works as a service/install tech for the local JD dealer. I believe the motors retail for $600 from Deere though, and you can always find a off-brand version not JD labeled. It’s quite a common motor actually since it’s a Briggs. Also, what’s better a free tractor with a motor for a few hundred, a new walk behind (22”), or a new rider for $1500+.
Just don’t make them go righty loosey 😂 but here is a good guide to find that out as I don’t quite remember mine. www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/engine_mounting_hardware.pdf
2:55 if that engine is a piece of garbage, why would you replace it with the identical model engine? by the way, earlier you showed the black oil from the engine. for the oil to be that black, that means you didn't change the oil often enough. that oil should never get that black. that acts like sand paper on your cam shaft which is probably what blew your engine at only 247 hours. good job replacing the engine though and I hope the newer engine is better. like you said, I've seen lots of those single cylinder D series engines blow a head gasket, and the funny thing is they all blew the gasket at the same point, as though it was designed to blow at that same spot hahahaha. But I didn't see that happen with the E series models so I guess they fixed it.
So a little more perspective. The tractor sat over winter before I did the replacement. I was due to perform the head gasket and service when it blew so the oil was not that black when it first happened. The reason for direct replacement was cost/time. For me to change to a new mower meant spending a lot more, aftermarket motors are all the same B&S platform and they all seem to encounter head gasket problems. I got this essentially at a discount (cheaper than aftermarket) and if I get even the same hours out of it over the next 7 years I’m fine with that. Although it will probably be upgraded before then. Thanks for the view/reply.
Don't bother with that junk.goober thay are all junk so many of those all had the same issue company rip off . I gave up on fixing that shit it's just cheep shit. That people pay way to much for .get something old if it's old it's gold.
I hear you since it’s basically a base model and not an X or older LT or even G series. But for the money I wasn’t in the market to upgrade as my next purchase for a mower/rider may well be a zero turn that is battery. There is so much changing in the market today it’s hard to say but I’m about 2 years out from a new purchase.
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This video took all the pain out of figuring out the necessary connections to remove and re-connect. Thanks
Just replaced my D105 engine today! This video prepared me well to take on the task, so THANKS! A few comments: 1) Throttle linkage can be adjusted with an 8mm socket on an extender, if you don’t have a T25 torx. 2) Install the old muffler on the new engine before dropping it in, or you’ll have to remove front of the chassis assembly (that holds the hood bracket as well) to get it in afterwards. My muffler pipe required a 6 mm hex wrench to attach it. 3) It’s much easier to remove the new engine’s plastic cover *before* installation (you have to remove it to stop the fan assembly from rotating while attaching the drive spindle from below). 4) The passing advice to start the self-tapping screws on the bench was critical! Made life much easier. This video allowed me to place a $620 brand new John Deere OEM engine (purchased on eBay rather than purchase a new tractor for $2399, and it took about 3 hours.
All amazing additions and thanks. Glad it helped buddy!
Fantastic video!!! It made the Job 100 time easier and faster. Got a great deal on a used engine (135 hours) and began this engine swap at 5:30 last night. At 7:30 the job was complete and my D105 is running again! The engine I found was at a small engine repair shop, I got such a good deal because I removed the engine off an old tractor that was in his shop. It took me 30 minutes to remove it (thanks to the video) and he was very impressed. only small snag is I did struggle (briefly) on which of the many holes in the frame to bolt through. Minor 5 minute delay.
Awesome! Glad it helped out.
I so appreciate these learning videos but dang why can’t they all just get to what we are here for.
Pretty sure mine is right to the point compared to others.
When I change an engine I usually drop the deck completely off and pull it out from underneath the mower.
This gives me extra space underneath. Dropping the front of the deck works but I like lots of elbow room. LOL
It also lets me examine the often neglected parts like the drive & deck belts & idler pulleys, the blades, spindle bearings, belt take up springs, blade brakes, transaxle, drive brake adjustment, Etc.
I can flip the deck over and clean it out quickly with the pressure washer too.
I fluid film the unsealed wiring connections that're open to the elements to keep the green puss ftom taking over. An oz of prevention and all.
Excellent video!!! Saved me a ton of time and frustration.
It looks like there's an blocking hole in the pulley you can use that to hold it still when removing the nut. You can drain the fuel tank at the end of season by disconnecting the fuel line at the filter and blowing gently into the fuel cap to induce siphoning.
Getting ready to do mine. Your video is going to really help. I will let you all know how it goes,
Don’t forget even if you got an aftermarket or other motor the setup is mostly the same. Good luck!
How is that single cylinder engine holding up? The Briggs single that MDI uses has a known issue with the camshaft. They put a compression release on it and it is known to fail. I am replaing my single with a v-twin.
So far so good, been running strong with regular tuneups. Keeping an eye for any deal issues. I let the smoking go too long on the last one.
Great job. You made it easy. Thank you.
i have the same mower and the Engine turns over but does not start I added new oil new spark plug new gas new fuel filter and a carburetor clean but it does not Get gas from the carburetor to the engine the mower's been sitting for about two years Outside What would you do
Have you checked the fuel pump. It’s the black disc shaped part near the top of the motor. It is a diaphragm known to split and fail.
At 13:56 of this video - What is the thick black cable and (black box thingy) called? It's shown directly to the right of your hand. Looks like we had some mice activity that chewed into the wiring of that black cable and will need to replace.
We so appreciate your informative videos! Thank you.
If your referring to the cable that runs to the front, that’s the ignition coil (spark plug wire) and the black box is the coil pack. So the box/pack is what sends the electrical signal/pulse through the wire so the spark plug can fire, thus initiating the combustion stroke. If that’s chewed you can grab a new setup pretty cheap, under $25 if you don’t mind aftermarket.
@@Neighborly_Content Perfect! Thank you.
How much was for the engine and where can I buy?
Good job. About to replace mine next week.
Honestly most of these smaller 20hp and under motors are all the same. Most come from B&S, enjoy the project it’s a pretty easy one.
Great video! Where did you get the new motor from?
Friend who works for G&H Equipment and Sales. Local JD dealer.
Okay this answers my question!!!
How is it "seized up" if the flywheel needs held into place while removing the drive spindle. Ill bet your carb just needed a rebuild.
More than a carb rebuild. Had a bent valve rods, blown rings, and a few other issues.
@@Neighborly_Content Oh ok, I was just wondering how you got to that conclusion in the video
I literally just got off the phone with tractor service center and they told me the tractor my wasn't worth fixing because of the engine. I have a L120 that was left at my house by the previous owner. I was thinking, I can change the engine myself. Can't be that hard on a ride mower. I know you said your friend hooked you up. I was just wondering who he reached out to get the engine. Or if know of any places I can check to get a new engine for my lawnmower.
My friend works as a service/install tech for the local JD dealer. I believe the motors retail for $600 from Deere though, and you can always find a off-brand version not JD labeled. It’s quite a common motor actually since it’s a Briggs.
Also, what’s better a free tractor with a motor for a few hundred, a new walk behind (22”), or a new rider for $1500+.
Save yourself time and skip to 4:00
You should have done an upgrade
Unfortunately he skipped right over how tight engine mounting bolts should be...which is why I watched this
Just don’t make them go righty loosey 😂 but here is a good guide to find that out as I don’t quite remember mine.
www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/engine_mounting_hardware.pdf
@@Neighborly_Content thank u sir. This is some very useful information
2:55 if that engine is a piece of garbage, why would you replace it with the identical model engine? by the way, earlier you showed the black oil from the engine. for the oil to be that black, that means you didn't change the oil often enough. that oil should never get that black. that acts like sand paper on your cam shaft which is probably what blew your engine at only 247 hours. good job replacing the engine though and I hope the newer engine is better. like you said, I've seen lots of those single cylinder D series engines blow a head gasket, and the funny thing is they all blew the gasket at the same point, as though it was designed to blow at that same spot hahahaha. But I didn't see that happen with the E series models so I guess they fixed it.
So a little more perspective. The tractor sat over winter before I did the replacement. I was due to perform the head gasket and service when it blew so the oil was not that black when it first happened.
The reason for direct replacement was cost/time. For me to change to a new mower meant spending a lot more, aftermarket motors are all the same B&S platform and they all seem to encounter head gasket problems. I got this essentially at a discount (cheaper than aftermarket) and if I get even the same hours out of it over the next 7 years I’m fine with that. Although it will probably be upgraded before then. Thanks for the view/reply.
You have not been maintaining your lawnmower by the looks of the dirt.when we are going to see the replacement?😮😮😮😮😮😮
Maaaaan, you working on that while on short term disability?... kidding, I use The Hartford at Work for claims...lol
Don't bother with that junk.goober thay are all junk so many of those all had the same issue company rip off . I gave up on fixing that shit it's just cheep shit. That people pay way to much for .get something old if it's old it's gold.
I hear you since it’s basically a base model and not an X or older LT or even G series. But for the money I wasn’t in the market to upgrade as my next purchase for a mower/rider may well be a zero turn that is battery. There is so much changing in the market today it’s hard to say but I’m about 2 years out from a new purchase.
How much was for the engine and where can I buy?
$400 I believe I got it from a dealer, but my friend works there so it was closer to cost than retail.
@@Neighborly_Content Where can buy one?