It’s important to note that if you remove the panel entirely that corner bolt holding the rear seatbelt will often snap. The bolt goes to the wheel arch and unless cleaned with a wire brush and lubricated it’ll probably snap coming out. You can also remove the module by undoing the nuts on the cage rather than taking the rivets out for people who don’t have a rivet gun. I use a 6mm masonry bit and they come out in seconds. Secondhand modules don’t need coding, only brand new ones. A repaired one doesn’t.
Usually is the data in the NAND flash that gets corrupted... There is tools to read the flash and restores the data... but all also depends on state of the NAND chip... 👍👍👍
Great video... I had the flashing odometer after I disconnected the battery overnight and reconnected it today. Fortunately I read on a forum to try disconnecting again and reconnecting after a delay... I did this carefully and everything is fine now !
I've had the same thing. Sometimes the process works. Sometimes not. Usually on the Ford KA to be fair. When the CTM or whichever module decides to throw one, it seems to sometimes screw the data in another module and getting the mileage to stop flashing really gets expensive. Glad yours was an easy one 👍
I’ve seen this problem caused many times when the battery is renewed. It can be avoided by changing the battery carefully with the engine running. Sounds dodgy but it does work!!
It is not recommended to run the engine without a battery on. Depending on the manufacturer things can go wrong doing this. It is better to have a parallel voltage on the leads.
True. But many cars use the battery voltage as reference and without it there is a chance of overvoltage from the alternator which can lead to damage and very costly one. No need to push our luck.
Interesting Video. I had this problem after my battery was getting a bit flat; next day - Suddenly no audio controls or Bluetooth and flashing odometer. No amount of checking uncovered the problem either for 6 months - I basically gave up. Anyway, after a 50-minute drive going to church, in 40 ° C in severe Aussie heat on Christmas day, my blue and me module sparked up again and started jabbering on in Italian! Everything was working again somehow, maybe a XMAS miracle, and I only had to download an English patch and installed that via Fiat's USB port. God know what that was though.
I love your work Luis, Auto Electrics is so relaxing to watch even though it's a pain to troubleshoot. I find it interesting because of the challenges.
I have 2015 500e but what is the relationship with Usb connection of it? I have same problems with your. Did you get fail when you try to use media player on the radio? There was no connection of gear box usb, no feedback from steering wheel buttons which is related BM and mileage flashing all the time.
When the media module fails it disturbs the communication between modules... The mileage flashes because the gateway fails to communicate with that module... 👍👍👍
Thank you for the excellent video. My 2011 Fiat 500c recently had a clutch plate and slave cylinder £950 repair. Now the car has a flashing mile counter or whatever it’s called. It did not have this before and the garage says it was not caused by them. I think it was. Very expensive to fix but would not cause the car to fail its MoT. Can you recommend a good Fiat mechanic/electrical person in the Eastbourne, East Sussex area?🤞🏻
It definitely that work should have not caused that... Could have been a coincidence... That said, get the car scanned and see what is going on... Unfortunately no, I do not know anyone in that area... 👍👍👍
I have a 2012 500 in the shop with the same issue , but not quite the same: the CTM AND the VTM are unable to communicate with the BCM or a scan tool, but they share the same CAN B network with the radio, and the radio can communicate with the BCM and my scanner.
Great video! I noticed that the old module might still have some life in it. Shutting down (essentially going into sleep) might be a sign that the module is not getting any CAN communication. Now, I see you probed the CAN wires, but maybe the problem is just a bad CAN transceiver. Could you check the RXD pin on the CAN transceiver while the module is connected to the car? Or maybe next time you diagnose a similar issue you'll have this in mind? You can also test the old module on a bench setup, but that might be more of a challenge. It's easier to just hook it into the car. Anyway, just my 2c.
@@tharindutest9930 Yesterday, my i20 EPS light came ON and steering is very hard. I diagnosed the issue with multimeter. 1. 12v is available at the input coupler of the EPS module. 2. 12v from IG ON Or Start is available at the third coupler of the module. 3. However, with engine running, there is about 5v (supplying to the EPS motor) at the output coupler of the module. As steering is rotated left or right, voltage fluctuates +12 to -12 on the multimeter. This time no EPS light. After waiting for about 5 minutes, the EPS light comes ON. At this time, multimeter shows between 0 to 3v only.. even with steering rotated left or right. Why I don't get +12 to -12v? Is the EPS module faulty??? What causes module fault?? I assume now the motor is not faculty. Please help immediately. Thanks in advance.
@@tharindutest9930 To clarify - my comment was just a guess - but that guess could have been easily tested. It might have been a bad CAN transceiver chip that doesn't function properly anymore, and so not waking up the module. Or it could have been a voltage regulator chip that wasn't creating stable/correct voltage output and so the module could have detected this and went to sleep. (It could also have been a number of other things that are harder to check) Whether a new (factory new or second hand replacement) module could repeat the same issue - it depends on what causes the issue: 1. Bad supply of CAN transceivers or voltage regulators - maybe. or maybe not. Depends entirely on the new batch of chips that were used to produce the module. 2. A systematic issue like vibrations or condensation - very like to occur again even with a factory new module. So it depends entirely of the source of the issue. My point was that this could have been very easily checked. It doesn't require having the full schematic to determine which chip is the CAN transceiver and check the voltage/EN/CAN_H/CAN_L/RXD pins for the signals that were shown on the vide to exist on the cable assembly. Also looking for voltage regulators or buck converter chips - that is less easy but not at all impossible. I don't blame Luis for not checking those as it takes a lot of time and energy and focus to be able to determine a bad power supply on an unknown board - and time costs money too. If one hour of looking for something that can't be guaranteed to be the issue costs more than a second hand unit - then you buy a second hand unit. It depends on the customer as well - most customers will likely either chose a second hand unit or a factory new unit. But the CAN transceiver issue is way much easier to determine and it takes a couple minutes with the scope that is already in front of him - and that gives the customer another choice to fix the issue with less money. Hope that clarifies what I meant.
@@radoro Assuming the tech is willing to invest time in checking all the different aspects you mentioned, what are the corresponding courses of action he can take to repair the board? Even your previous reply is most appreciated.
I have heard conflicting info about the blue&me unit ,some say the part numbers on the new unit don't have to match,saying there are only two types one with a built in USB and one with a remote one. is this true?
@@LMAutoRepairs seat belts use specific bolts...but its all bulshit as we saw it snapped..it will be fine with the new bolt.....usually seat belt bolts are the same thread on most cars so when i need i go to the junkyard and get a seat belt bolt form other car....
Maybe you should tell the customer, that the USB cable to their phone must be in serviceable condition. A cable with a short could fry the CTM (again).
Totally agree on that, quite a few control units go bang due to dodgy peripherals. Some manufacturers such as VAG (and, maybe, Ford?) do integrate an overcurrent shut-off protection into most of their control units but it seems like there are quite a few systems out there that are totally vulnerable in this regard. People should be aware of the risks of connecting dodgy stuff to computerised vehicles.
Hey thanks for your video. I have a 2017 ducato with the flashing odometer. Fiat can't fix it without a 700 euros central replacement. Thinking of fitting a Fiat proxy emulator card from atomis. Do you know anything about them. Thanks for any info
Great Video! This device in my 500 Twinair 2014 broke, too. Now drains battery, too. I do not want to replace it. So, is it possible to unplug it somehow so it no longer sucks power? Not by the plug at the device since it is sooo hard to reach. Do you know where the other plug at the other end of the cable is? AFAIK there is no solution to just remove a fuse.
@@LMAutoRepairs Thank you for answering. So there is a separate fuse for the B&M device only? My 500 from 2014 doesn‘t have a glove box. Just kind of „shelf“.
I believe it does have... but I might be wrong... Yes, at the bottom of that shelf is a cover, behind it are the fuses... Unless I am confused with another car...😋
Hi, Is there a fuse that can be pulled to disable the blue&me module?. My mileage has started flashing and blue&me isn't working. Don't fancy trying to dismantle the panel in winter to unplug the module, if I don't have to?
@@LMAutoRepairs eliminating battery drain, it's not draining at the moment but have read it is a common issues once the module plays up. I will get it coded out but not this side of Christmas.
Ah...got you... I am not sure if there is an individual fuse just for that, of if is shared with some other components... sorry... check Mr. Google for the fuses assignment... 👍👍👍
☺ That's great! That makes me really happy, knowing that my work helped someone to try something on this field! Wish you the best! Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍
Lu if the owner decide, she want a new aftermarket module like android DIN 1 in this case u don't need a module at all? Just need to be de-configure from BCM. As u sad this module will keep failing i guess is a better route to aftermarket. What u think how u do this scenario pls.
I saw the full video. And I do have a question Tonight this problem showed up at the same time the 500 got into some odd safety mode in which the acceleration is limited. I got to press the pedal all the way to the bottom to get 50kph max speed. I'm worried something else happened besides this faulty module. I read a faulty coil could be related but... Two separate issues at the same time? I don't believe so. What do you think? BTW, thanks so much for your effort on making this video.
UPDATE: I removed the battery, waited for 10min and put it back in. The acceleration safety mode has faded away. Only the flashing odometer remains which makes me want to try your final recommendation. I will post an update when I have a chance.
Scan the car first... that way you will have a better idea of what is going on, and of what happened, as you will most likely have codes stored on the engine ecu as well... 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs Hey maybe you can answer this one real quick. Do you know which is the fuse for this module? Im about to start by checkng the fuse boxes and Im looking everywhere but cant exactly locate based on the module name you provide on this video. I would appreciate it if you have a chance.
Can you use a different part number module. We have a ford KA with battery drain from blue and me module. Sent away for repair they said they can't repair it as not a part number they can repair. So some modules they can some they can't. thanks
This happened to me: Only my speedometer is flashing. So I cleaned the battery corrosion and it stopped. 2months later it is flashing again. What could be the problem you think? I had the battery checked then and now and both times they told me it was a good battery.
Hi I believe you had reset the modules the previous time, when you cleaned the terminals, by disconnecting the battery... Perhaps now you have a different issue... Have the car scanned... that should point you in the right direction... 👍👍👍
i changed one module like this before and have one in the garage now with same problem.would be interesting to know whats wrong coz i remember a reflow the board,changed can chip and checked most ic powers and didnt find a issue last time.the owner doesnt need the bluetooth so i have a elm 327 around that i should modify and install multiecuscan to take it off proxy i liked the handheld scope,need to get one.looks better to use in small spaces rather then use picoscope
@@LMAutoRepairs dont know if u have it but autel load probe is very handy for power testing under load,audio oustputs,rough ideea if can is alive,continuity and powering components,reference voltage from ecu etc I rarely use test light since i got it
Unplug it... or remove the fuse... If you just want to get rid of it completely, you also need to do a proxi alignment to remove the module from the configuration... 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs cheers Louis own a mito and when I swapped oem radio for aftermarket because Bluetooth was in radio millage flashed had to buy another module to go in loom which stopped flashing and radio to use steering controls
@@LMAutoRepairs my mileage is blinking and my blue and me is not working, my mechanic plugged in the car and he said I need to reprogram the computer of the car. I had the same problem with my vauxhall in Portugal but it was easy to fix.
Yesterday, my i20 EPS light came ON and steering is very hard. I diagnosed the issue with multimeter. 1. 12v is available at the input coupler of the EPS module. 2. 12v from IG ON Or Start is available at the third coupler of the module. 3. However, with engine running, there is about 5v (supplying to the EPS motor) at the output coupler of the module. As steering is rotated left or right, voltage fluctuates +12 to -12 on the multimeter. This time no EPS light. After waiting for about 5 minutes, the EPS light comes ON. At this time, multimeter shows between 0 to 3v only.. even with steering rotated left or right. Why I don't get +12 to -12v? Is the EPS module faulty??? What causes module fault?? I assume now the motor is not faculty. Please help immediately. Thanks in advance.
Have you scanned the car? The fault code should help guide you in the right direction... But if that is a one "sealed" unit, yes, there is a possibility of a sensor, or something along those lines... Thank you for watching! 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs I have 3 questions. 1. How to check the continuity tests on the eps motor or what is the value of resistance at the 2 pins of the eps motor??? 2. I got +-0 to +-12 volt when steering is rotated with engine running. However, after sometime, EPS comes ON and i have readings about 3v only at the output pins of the eps module. Why??? 3.And, last one, what are the causes leading to the failure of EPS MODULE????
Is not that simple... Obviously when the EPS light comes on the system is disabling the motor... so, obviously no voltage and you loose the aid of the motor... The light comes on for a reason, and anything I would suggest would be pure guess work... Unfortunately, without scanning the car, is impossible to make any educated suggestions...
@@LMAutoRepairs but how to check continuity test on EPS motor? What's the recommended reading range? And, what are the causes leading to EPS MODULE failure???
i have 51884624 and i found at my car that blue and me ecu was damaged . So i have to search at Ebay or somewhere else with the numbers from the video ? im asking cause i didn't found exact the same number part
Script? How can I script if I never now what the problem is before start diagnose? Dubbing? Too time consuming... plus I would forget most of the details by the time I would be ready to dubb...😋 Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍
The way things happen now are quite interesting. A couple of irregular verb mistakes, that accent, seeking for the correct word to say. It's part of the adventure.
This occurred to me when I removed my radio in 2012 fiat 500..after repainting the radio knobs flat black and reinstalling the radio, the flashing milage went away...probably a return circuit to the computer..saying Hey, you are losing parts! Lol
Talks about everything but the issue, switches from one thing to another constantly… the most boring narrator I’ve heard and shouldn’t post these videos… keep it simple.. your too complicated
its just magnetti marelli doing their usuall crap.......back in the old days it was lucas, the masters of darkness,now its delphi and magnetti marelli seems like on 10 parts they are able to produce 8 with cronic problems
@@zoran69ser Yah but there not plagued with them I think you got lucky because overall there a very poor quality car the 500 at least I wouldn't mind risking a panda but only if say my mom gave it to me for next to nothing and that's not actually a fiat that's a Opel GM from what I saw when I looked it up I can't think of the proper name
@@zoran69ser apart from electric power steering and bad indicator stalks its not a bad car, its very simple when compared to this 500, it doesnt have any of this functions so less to go wrong
brilliant. mate.as always.i need help .I want to buy autel maxi com Mk808 .with 12month free update.after 12 month .if I dont update. what will hapen .I mean if still be usefull?? thank you
@@LMAutoRepairs do you recommend what autel? been looking at the maxi Das....occasionally i pay to do the electronic part of fap or egr removal and also key coding so a tool that did those would be great value even it did not support all vehicles
It’s important to note that if you remove the panel entirely that corner bolt holding the rear seatbelt will often snap. The bolt goes to the wheel arch and unless cleaned with a wire brush and lubricated it’ll probably snap coming out. You can also remove the module by undoing the nuts on the cage rather than taking the rivets out for people who don’t have a rivet gun. I use a 6mm masonry bit and they come out in seconds. Secondhand modules don’t need coding, only brand new ones. A repaired one doesn’t.
What goes wrong with the unit, does anyone know, i would like to repair myself
@@JustStart_Resto you can’t repair yourself. I do it for £60 in the uk. @love500
Usually is the data in the NAND flash that gets corrupted...
There is tools to read the flash and restores the data... but all also depends on state of the NAND chip...
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Top job again Luis. Liked the load testing method. Good ole incandescent test lights are still one of the auto electrician's best friends.
Indeed they are!
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Wow, that was a very interesting repair. I never knew the mileage flashing was a module off line 🤔. Every day is a school day & thanks for sharing 🙏👍
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Thanks, for watching and for your comment!
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Great video... I had the flashing odometer after I disconnected the battery overnight and reconnected it today. Fortunately I read on a forum to try disconnecting again and reconnecting after a delay... I did this carefully and everything is fine now !
Yes... sometimes that works... but that could also mean that a final failure is on the way...
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John, what do you mean by "reconnecting after a delay"?
@@mauro_mirez Disconnect
Wait
Reconnect
I've had the same thing. Sometimes the process works. Sometimes not. Usually on the Ford KA to be fair. When the CTM or whichever module decides to throw one, it seems to sometimes screw the data in another module and getting the mileage to stop flashing really gets expensive. Glad yours was an easy one 👍
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Thanks!
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I’ve seen this problem caused many times when the battery is renewed. It can be avoided by changing the battery carefully with the engine running. Sounds dodgy but it does work!!
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I use 3 Li batteries with a series diode and resistor clipped to the leads when changing a battery.
It is not recommended to run the engine without a battery on. Depending on the manufacturer things can go wrong doing this. It is better to have a parallel voltage on the leads.
@@MechanQDX445 Agreed. However there at a lot of things it’s not recommended to do……Sometimes……..
True. But many cars use the battery voltage as reference and without it there is a chance of overvoltage from the alternator which can lead to damage and very costly one. No need to push our luck.
Interesting Video. I had this problem after my battery was getting a bit flat; next day - Suddenly no audio controls or Bluetooth and flashing odometer. No amount of checking uncovered the problem either for 6 months - I basically gave up.
Anyway, after a 50-minute drive going to church, in 40 ° C in severe Aussie heat on Christmas day, my blue and me module sparked up again and started jabbering on in Italian!
Everything was working again somehow, maybe a XMAS miracle, and I only had to download an English patch and installed that via Fiat's USB port. God know what that was though.
That's a first!
But, if it works, it works...😁
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Another great video. A nice house with double garage will solve your weather problem Luis. Thanks for the video.
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I know...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Rain nor shine diagnosing and repair continues. Great vid as always! Kudos to you and your channel. Cheers! 🥃 👍
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Thank you!
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I love your work Luis, Auto Electrics is so relaxing to watch even though it's a pain to troubleshoot. I find it interesting because of the challenges.
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Indeed!...
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I have 2015 500e but what is the relationship with Usb connection of it? I have same problems with your. Did you get fail when you try to use media player on the radio? There was no connection of gear box usb, no feedback from steering wheel buttons which is related BM and mileage flashing all the time.
When the media module fails it disturbs the communication between modules...
The mileage flashes because the gateway fails to communicate with that module...
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Great video - these modules are so flaky and even changing the steering wheel control buttons will throw them out of alignment. Obrigado
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Nice video I think the problem was in 5 volts , the owner put phone to charge in usb port and pull more amps
Possibly...
Thank you for watching!
That’s what I’ve heard too. Modern phones that pull a lot of power are the cause of the things failing.
Seems to happen across all the fiat models . I’ve even used a memory saver when changing batteries. But still get this fault
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Thank you for the excellent video. My 2011 Fiat 500c recently had a clutch plate and slave cylinder £950 repair. Now the car has a flashing mile counter or whatever it’s called. It did not have this before and the garage says it was not caused by them. I think it was. Very expensive to fix but would not cause the car to fail its MoT.
Can you recommend a good Fiat mechanic/electrical person in the Eastbourne, East Sussex area?🤞🏻
It definitely that work should have not caused that...
Could have been a coincidence...
That said, get the car scanned and see what is going on...
Unfortunately no, I do not know anyone in that area...
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Do you have to do the proxy alignment after removing the module? Will the battery continue to drain if you don’t?
No... the battery will stop draining...
But the proxi is recommended...
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Wow, that was a very interesting repair. Interested if anybody really repaired that faulty module.
I get them repaired all the time. £78 on eBay.
Hi.nice video can I ask to to disable ctm with maxisys? Thanks
Yes... I believe you can... but you need to remove it from the main module first...
I never done it though... so don't take my work for it...
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I have a 2012 500 in the shop with the same issue , but not quite the same: the CTM AND the VTM are unable to communicate with the BCM or a scan tool, but they share the same CAN B network with the radio, and the radio can communicate with the BCM and my scanner.
I would say, check powers and grounds... they might share the same...
Without checking diagrams is a bit tricky to advise...
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Great video!
I noticed that the old module might still have some life in it. Shutting down (essentially going into sleep) might be a sign that the module is not getting any CAN communication. Now, I see you probed the CAN wires, but maybe the problem is just a bad CAN transceiver. Could you check the RXD pin on the CAN transceiver while the module is connected to the car? Or maybe next time you diagnose a similar issue you'll have this in mind?
You can also test the old module on a bench setup, but that might be more of a challenge. It's easier to just hook it into the car. Anyway, just my 2c.
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If it is a bad transceiver, won't the fault repeat with the new one?
@@tharindutest9930 Yesterday, my i20 EPS light came ON and steering is very hard. I diagnosed the issue with multimeter.
1. 12v is available at the input coupler of the EPS module.
2. 12v from IG ON Or Start is available at the third coupler of the module.
3. However, with engine running, there is about 5v (supplying to the EPS motor) at the output coupler of the module. As steering is rotated left or right, voltage fluctuates +12 to -12 on the multimeter. This time no EPS light.
After waiting for about 5 minutes, the EPS light comes ON. At this time, multimeter shows between 0 to 3v only.. even with steering rotated left or right.
Why I don't get +12 to -12v?
Is the EPS module faulty??? What causes module fault?? I assume now the motor is not faculty.
Please help immediately. Thanks in advance.
@@tharindutest9930 To clarify - my comment was just a guess - but that guess could have been easily tested. It might have been a bad CAN transceiver chip that doesn't function properly anymore, and so not waking up the module. Or it could have been a voltage regulator chip that wasn't creating stable/correct voltage output and so the module could have detected this and went to sleep. (It could also have been a number of other things that are harder to check)
Whether a new (factory new or second hand replacement) module could repeat the same issue - it depends on what causes the issue:
1. Bad supply of CAN transceivers or voltage regulators - maybe. or maybe not. Depends entirely on the new batch of chips that were used to produce the module.
2. A systematic issue like vibrations or condensation - very like to occur again even with a factory new module.
So it depends entirely of the source of the issue.
My point was that this could have been very easily checked.
It doesn't require having the full schematic to determine which chip is the CAN transceiver and check the voltage/EN/CAN_H/CAN_L/RXD pins for the signals that were shown on the vide to exist on the cable assembly.
Also looking for voltage regulators or buck converter chips - that is less easy but not at all impossible. I don't blame Luis for not checking those as it takes a lot of time and energy and focus to be able to determine a bad power supply on an unknown board - and time costs money too. If one hour of looking for something that can't be guaranteed to be the issue costs more than a second hand unit - then you buy a second hand unit. It depends on the customer as well - most customers will likely either chose a second hand unit or a factory new unit.
But the CAN transceiver issue is way much easier to determine and it takes a couple minutes with the scope that is already in front of him - and that gives the customer another choice to fix the issue with less money.
Hope that clarifies what I meant.
@@radoro Assuming the tech is willing to invest time in checking all the different aspects you mentioned, what are the corresponding courses of action he can take to repair the board? Even your previous reply is most appreciated.
Nice job, well done! Will the new module fail again or it has the defect fixed?
Has not failed yet... so 🤞
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every video is helping us thanks a lot luis
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Thank you very much for sharing! I have the same issue (odomater flashing) on a Lancia Ypsilon 1.3 2013.. And the usb doesn't supply energy.. 😭
Possibly same issue...
But check the basics first... fuses, etc...
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Hallo, can i do a proxy alignment for a Ford Ka 1,2L year 2013.
I have olso a problem with my CTM, i hope you can help me .
Ford works slightly different...
Have you replaced any modules?
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I have heard conflicting info about the blue&me unit ,some say the part numbers on the new unit don't have to match,saying there are only two types one with a built in USB and one with a remote one. is this true?
Have you watched the video?
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Does that blue n me module cause my tail lights not to turn on at night??
Shouldn't do that...
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Good job on the module but replacing a safety critical bolt with generic hardware?
Generic?
If the original was any special, wouldn't have snapped that easy in first place...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs seat belts use specific bolts...but its all bulshit as we saw it snapped..it will be fine with the new bolt.....usually seat belt bolts are the same thread on most cars so when i need i go to the junkyard and get a seat belt bolt form other car....
That was fascinating, great to see you fixed it 👌🏻🔧
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Thanks!
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Maybe you should tell the customer, that the USB cable to their phone must be in serviceable condition. A cable with a short could fry the CTM (again).
Totally agree on that, quite a few control units go bang due to dodgy peripherals. Some manufacturers such as VAG (and, maybe, Ford?) do integrate an overcurrent shut-off protection into most of their control units but it seems like there are quite a few systems out there that are totally vulnerable in this regard. People should be aware of the risks of connecting dodgy stuff to computerised vehicles.
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And what would be the solution to that?changing all the blue and me unit?
Same error, Fiat 500e, where did you get the new module from please?
Hi
Was not new, was a used module.
If I recall correctly, I got it from eBay...
Thank you for watching!
Hey thanks for your video. I have a 2017 ducato with the flashing odometer. Fiat can't fix it without a 700 euros central replacement. Thinking of fitting a Fiat proxy emulator card from atomis. Do you know anything about them. Thanks for any info
I heard about them, but never had to install one...
It should do the job, if the culprit module is not necessary...
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Hi
Do u think it could be fuse? Night before i was playing music on usb port next day had this problem ?
Possibly... just check them...
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Great Video! This device in my 500 Twinair 2014 broke, too. Now drains battery, too. I do not want to replace it. So, is it possible to unplug it somehow so it no longer sucks power? Not by the plug at the device since it is sooo hard to reach. Do you know where the other plug at the other end of the cable is? AFAIK there is no solution to just remove a fuse.
The fuse is in the glove box... if I am not mistaken...
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@@LMAutoRepairs Thank you for answering. So there is a separate fuse for the B&M device only?
My 500 from 2014 doesn‘t have a glove box. Just kind of „shelf“.
I believe it does have... but I might be wrong...
Yes, at the bottom of that shelf is a cover, behind it are the fuses...
Unless I am confused with another car...😋
@@LMAutoRepairs okay, Thanks a lot!
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Hi, Is there a fuse that can be pulled to disable the blue&me module?. My mileage has started flashing and blue&me isn't working. Don't fancy trying to dismantle the panel in winter to unplug the module, if I don't have to?
Remove the fuse will not make a difference...
What are you trying to achieve by removing the fuse?
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@@LMAutoRepairs eliminating battery drain, it's not draining at the moment but have read it is a common issues once the module plays up. I will get it coded out but not this side of Christmas.
Ah...got you... I am not sure if there is an individual fuse just for that, of if is shared with some other components... sorry... check Mr. Google for the fuses assignment...
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No as the two fuses run other critical systems. The only way to stop the battery drain is to pull the plug on the module.
I fall in to diagnostic b coz of u.Grate job Luis.
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That's great!
That makes me really happy, knowing that my work helped someone to try something on this field!
Wish you the best!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Lu if the owner decide, she want a new aftermarket module like android DIN 1 in this case u don't need a module at all? Just need to be de-configure from BCM. As u sad this module will keep failing i guess is a better route to aftermarket. What u think how u do this scenario pls.
Possible...
Just as you said, would have to proxy align the BCM to "remove" the module...
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I saw the full video. And I do have a question
Tonight this problem showed up at the same time the 500 got into some odd safety mode in which the acceleration is limited. I got to press the pedal all the way to the bottom to get 50kph max speed. I'm worried something else happened besides this faulty module.
I read a faulty coil could be related but... Two separate issues at the same time? I don't believe so.
What do you think?
BTW, thanks so much for your effort on making this video.
UPDATE: I removed the battery, waited for 10min and put it back in. The acceleration safety mode has faded away. Only the flashing odometer remains which makes me want to try your final recommendation. I will post an update when I have a chance.
Scan the car first... that way you will have a better idea of what is going on, and of what happened, as you will most likely have codes stored on the engine ecu as well...
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@@LMAutoRepairs Hey maybe you can answer this one real quick. Do you know which is the fuse for this module? Im about to start by checkng the fuse boxes and Im looking everywhere but cant exactly locate based on the module name you provide on this video. I would appreciate it if you have a chance.
I can't really remember now... check in the users manual...
Or just go through all the fuses...
Can you use a different part number module. We have a ford KA with battery drain from blue and me module. Sent away for repair they said they can't repair it as not a part number they can repair. So some modules they can some they can't. thanks
Not sure on ford's... on this is all explained in the video...
Super diagnosing and I'm enjoying learning thank you
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Thanks!
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Tore apart the back panels and I can’t find the blue and me us version fiat 500 1.4 turbo. Really irritating
I had a fiat with the same problem, wish I saw this first, got rid of the car instead.
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This happened to me: Only my speedometer is flashing. So I cleaned the battery corrosion and it stopped. 2months later it is flashing again. What could be the problem you think? I had the battery checked then and now and both times they told me it was a good battery.
Hi
I believe you had reset the modules the previous time, when you cleaned the terminals, by disconnecting the battery...
Perhaps now you have a different issue...
Have the car scanned... that should point you in the right direction...
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@@LMAutoRepairs I never reset the modules just cleaned the battery
I understand... but, you have disconnected it to do so, right?
fiat grande punto 2007 P060C-85 fault code what should I do?
That is a bit generic...
Could be just a bad clutch and flywheel...
A good look at live data might help you to determine the problem...
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Great video learning more each day ..
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i changed one module like this before and have one in the garage now with same problem.would be interesting to know whats wrong coz i remember a reflow the board,changed can chip and checked most ic powers and didnt find a issue last time.the owner doesnt need the bluetooth so i have a elm 327 around that i should modify and install multiecuscan to take it off proxy
i liked the handheld scope,need to get one.looks better to use in small spaces rather then use picoscope
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@@LMAutoRepairs dont know if u have it but autel load probe is very handy for power testing under load,audio oustputs,rough ideea if can is alive,continuity and powering components,reference voltage from ecu etc
I rarely use test light since i got it
Yes... I do have have one...
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Thanks for the video how I turn off the BLUE&ME system in a Fiat 500. Makes the battery drain
Unplug it... or remove the fuse...
If you just want to get rid of it completely, you also need to do a proxi alignment to remove the module from the configuration...
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@@LMAutoRepairs can you please tell me which fuse to remove for a 2013 fiat 500 1.2 lounge?
Can't believe that bolt snapped on you !! What do you do just drill centre of bolt ??
Yes...
Then tapped it again to clean the thread...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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@@LMAutoRepairs cheers Louis own a mito and when I swapped oem radio for aftermarket because Bluetooth was in radio millage flashed had to buy another module to go in loom which stopped flashing and radio to use steering controls
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Hi. I have a similar problem with my fiat 500. Would you be able to look at that? Thanks
Similar?
What exactly are you experiencing?
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@@LMAutoRepairs my mileage is blinking and my blue and me is not working, my mechanic plugged in the car and he said I need to reprogram the computer of the car. I had the same problem with my vauxhall in Portugal but it was easy to fix.
Most likely it will need replacing...
As per the video...
@@LMAutoRepairs how it will cost to fix the car?
The price of the module plus the programming... I would say a couple of hours labour at any decent garage...
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Evening I really need you to work on my nemo van 14 plate ,the mileage is flashing
Where are you based ?
I'm in Essex please let us no
Very good video like always!!!
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Thanks!
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thank you for sharing and learning the other peopel
great job
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Thank you for watching!
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Good job
What diagnostics can do this from home, maybe a cheaper one? 🙄
Probably several ones... I only have experience with the MS908P...
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Hi
Can you help me ?
hi i have p0725-66 in transmission and between 2 and 3 car slipping fiat 500 dialogic gearbox
Is that the dualogic as well?
yes and this code on TCM there is no DTC in ECU when car record p0725-62 it slip between 2 and 3 @@LMAutoRepairs
That sounds like a worn clutch...
Muito bom essa informações eu tô com um linear aqui que essa mesma situação não consigo faz alinhamento proxi
Yesterday, my i20 EPS light came ON and steering is very hard. I diagnosed the issue with multimeter.
1. 12v is available at the input coupler of the EPS module.
2. 12v from IG ON Or Start is available at the third coupler of the module.
3. However, with engine running, there is about 5v (supplying to the EPS motor) at the output coupler of the module. As steering is rotated left or right, voltage fluctuates +12 to -12 on the multimeter. This time no EPS light.
After waiting for about 5 minutes, the EPS light comes ON. At this time, multimeter shows between 0 to 3v only.. even with steering rotated left or right.
Why I don't get +12 to -12v?
Is the EPS module faulty??? What causes module fault?? I assume now the motor is not faculty.
Please help immediately. Thanks in advance.
Have you scanned the car?
The fault code should help guide you in the right direction...
But if that is a one "sealed" unit, yes, there is a possibility of a sensor, or something along those lines...
Thank you for watching!
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@@LMAutoRepairs sir no scanner, and i have to drive about 4 hrs to reach service centre.
@@LMAutoRepairs I have 3 questions.
1. How to check the continuity tests on the eps motor or what is the value of resistance at the 2 pins of the eps motor???
2. I got +-0 to +-12 volt when steering is rotated with engine running. However, after sometime, EPS comes ON and i have readings about 3v only at the output pins of the eps module. Why???
3.And, last one, what are the causes leading to the failure of EPS MODULE????
Is not that simple...
Obviously when the EPS light comes on the system is disabling the motor... so, obviously no voltage and you loose the aid of the motor...
The light comes on for a reason, and anything I would suggest would be pure guess work...
Unfortunately, without scanning the car, is impossible to make any educated suggestions...
@@LMAutoRepairs but how to check continuity test on EPS motor? What's the recommended reading range? And, what are the causes leading to EPS MODULE failure???
What does proxi stand for
Hiya, amazing fix! Do you do these repairs on cars of clients?
Not really... I do this as a part time... for friends etc...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs Where are you based, is it possible for you to do a fix I can’t find anyone near me who is able to fix this module! 😂
How much is that module brand new
Pass... have not even looked at the price for a new one...
But I would guess a couple hundred... if not more...
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i have 51884624 and i found at my car that blue and me ecu was damaged . So i have to search at Ebay or somewhere else with the numbers from the video ? im asking cause i didn't found exact the same number part
Does anyone knows about that ? ( Ive got 1.2L 2010 Petrol )
Check with the dealer, it could be that there is newer part numbers that are compatible...
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Can you not unplug it and do a proxi?
Yes... should do...
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What is your opinion on the Fiat 500? Not too good I guess.
Nice little car... with it's issues, like any other brand...
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How much does it cost to have a proxy alignment done?
Depends where you go...
It is a quite simple procedure, I would think should not be too expensive...
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£120 in the uk at a fiat dealer. I do it for free
Thank you for another great video!!!
Thanks!
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Parabéns por mais um excelente vídeo, 6****** um abraço e obrigado pela tua partilha de conhecimento
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Na boa!
Obrigado!
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Great video and very informative, but you need to consider either a script or dubbing in the sound later, after filming.
Script?
How can I script if I never now what the problem is before start diagnose?
Dubbing?
Too time consuming... plus I would forget most of the details by the time I would be ready to dubb...😋
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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The way things happen now are quite interesting. A couple of irregular verb mistakes, that accent, seeking for the correct word to say. It's part of the adventure.
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I bet it was a "Twin air" with stop start?
Can't remember...
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Great job brother
Thanks!
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Hello. I installed a aftermarket touchscreen android stereo and now my Km are flashing... 😔
Align/program the network without radio...
That should solve it...
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@@LMAutoRepairs I will try that. Thanks
So how does it get fixed?
Have you watched the video?
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@@LMAutoRepairs it would be easier if you just told me
@@Keisha7612 LOL
Thank You good Man!
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Thank you for watching!
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Exelente compañero 👌🇺🇾🇺🇾🇪🇦
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Thanks!
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good fix .. my sunday video ❤
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Stick to 2 Weetabix for breakfast, Luis. 8-) That poor bolt didn't stand a chance.
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And I think that car needs new moter mound's because in the camera it seemed to vibrate a lot
Was probably me shaking...😋
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Viva doutor luis🤗
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thanks much, good sir!
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This occurred to me when I removed my radio in 2012 fiat 500..after repainting the radio knobs flat black and reinstalling the radio, the flashing milage went away...probably a return circuit to the computer..saying Hey, you are losing parts! Lol
Indeed...
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I have it on alfa romeo it was can bus failure .
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thank you
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thanks
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good job💪💪
Thanks!
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Thanks!
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im sry but i cant seem to get your voice out of my head ... gru from mininions lol
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The whole video could’ve been made in 10 minutes. But good information anyways 👍
I could make it in less that than... 🤪
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Nice one this Luis. Bloody Fiats..
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nothing to say.
thnx man
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Talks about everything but the issue, switches from one thing to another constantly… the most boring narrator I’ve heard and shouldn’t post these videos… keep it simple.. your too complicated
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You like it or not, sorted the issue though...
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i cannot understand the way to test pin14 and 30😂
If it’s not a mot failure why bother to get it fixed ?
Not sure I understand your question...
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@@LMAutoRepairs it doesn't affect the car mines has been flashing for 6 months
True...
But but if you want the functionality of the module...
Too many commercials guys..
Not interested..
its just magnetti marelli doing their usuall crap.......back in the old days it was lucas, the masters of darkness,now its delphi and magnetti marelli seems like on 10 parts they are able to produce 8 with cronic problems
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That's why I'll never buy a fiat car because you just know there going to have electric problems and I'm to tall for that car
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what brand dont have electric problems? 4 year grande punto 2007 no problem at all.
@@zoran69ser Yah but there not plagued with them I think you got lucky because overall there a very poor quality car the 500 at least I wouldn't mind risking a panda but only if say my mom gave it to me for next to nothing and that's not actually a fiat that's a Opel GM from what I saw when I looked it up I can't think of the proper name
@@zoran69ser apart from electric power steering and bad indicator stalks its not a bad car, its very simple when compared to this 500, it doesnt have any of this functions so less to go wrong
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Thanks!
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Fiat e Renault são uma tal....
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Fiat junk…great video 👍
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Don’t bother to fix it if you hate Fiat so much , you are lousy anyway .
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Omg please stopping talking so much
Don't watch... that simple...
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brilliant. mate.as always.i need help .I want to buy autel maxi com Mk808 .with 12month free update.after 12 month .if I dont update. what will hapen .I mean if still be usefull?? thank you
Yes...
The tool will carry one working...
But you will loose any online facilities...
Like updates, etc...
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@@LMAutoRepairs do you recommend what autel? been looking at the maxi Das....occasionally i pay to do the electronic part of fap or egr removal and also key coding so a tool that did those would be great value even it did not support all vehicles