Started welding school yesterday and we’re going to be using the 6010 rods and they were talking about this technique and about the puddle. Had to see a visual of it and I get now, makes sense. Great video.
Excellent Vid. ....Bud.....every single word was benifet to the viewer.......no wasted time. I liked the explanation at the start were you explained the number identification and its meaning. You really keep the viewer focused. Some other vids people get to the 3 minute mark and they haven't said a thing of value. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK...PAL !!!
Yea i was told that about the water from a bud i use to work with at a power plant. I was not as good a welder especially with the 5p and my friend Harvey was a pipe line welder before he came to the plant . We usually used 7018 or what was called for . He helped me out on the 6010 root . We did not test with that . Our 6g test was tig root and then fill with the lo hi ..But i going to say we had some repairs where we used the 6010 root and the lo hi fill and cap ..Because we needed to get the unit back up . Never had a failure doing that . Thanks for the video
I've been needing a tip like that at the end. Had some bad problems with 6010 flux messing me up not burning off evenly. It was throwing my heat direction off whack and erratic. I've seen guys that would shake the rod real fast as their welding but it doesn't work as great as it should.
I used to whip it. Found reducing amps means...I bump the sides. Use a small circular motion. This breaks the walls down. Of course, pointing the rod when the keyhole closes/opens. Works well. Yes, having a wet rag to wipe a new rod stops finger nailing.
Ive been welding on gate hinges, 3/8" x 4" plate hinge to 4 1/2" pipe post. I cut a slot into the pipe for hinge. Then weld 1/8" 6010 DC+, cap with 5/32 8018 DC+ high amp. All downhill with excellent results
I usually just run a drag on 6011 unless i really have problems with too much heat. I only run the whip when I am blowing holes in things, but then again, I'm just a hobbyist out in his shop, there's no inspector here other than the wife if its something for around the house.
On 6010, if you use them in the wrong polarity, what happens? Will it even strike off? I was told it would work in positive electrode, but I tried it out with my welder and it did weld up pretty good. Didn't do a bend test or anything, just practicing but I did it and couldn't really tell a difference. I did have a miller lunch box type welder that does tig as well, so maybe that helped?
@@YT-User1013 dcep brings 66% of heat at the electrode (less penetration) while dcen brings 66% of heat at the plate (more penetration), which i believe is backwards from what you said
As I know it (not vast experience - 6010's frequently not even heard of here in the UK) sometimes the weld will not run stable with a 6010 and you have to "whip" to build up a well-formed regular-and-even bead. That coming from someone who always sets the welding machine to the weld and does a straight run wherever possible, which is most of the time. I offer this while not wanting to contradict your "take".
In Europe we don't use 6010 atleast in pipe we normally do the root pass with TIG and then with 7018 or flux cored, and also here in Europe it's not allowed to weld downhill and with reverse polarity
Mmmm... i dont think thats a whip and pause, its more of a backfill weave... we were taught whip and pause means you slightly increase your arc lenght which is supposed to increase the resistance and heat... you whip slightly out and off of the workpiece and pause until you get the desired temperature then return to your puddle/keyhole and continue as normal... basically its to help open a keyhole if you find yourself moving too quickly or feel the amperage was too low so you quickly make up for it by whip(increase arc length) and pause... otherwise if you dont increase the arc length off of the workpiece then you're just laying hot metal on cold steel and when you return to your puddle you just made your job of penetration that much harder... again this was more of a back fill technique where the opposite problem occurs and the piece is too hot and you whip forward rather than out to build up material then return to the puddle and fill over the buildup as to not blow through or get excessive penetration
Great tutorial. Ahhh, the good old days. When using 6010, if your shins get warm you’re on fire.
lol 😂
@wbaisjeff Yep! But I'm a gonna finish that bead before I worry bout that! 😅
Started welding school yesterday and we’re going to be using the 6010 rods and they were talking about this technique and about the puddle. Had to see a visual of it and I get now, makes sense. Great video.
Excellent Vid. ....Bud.....every single word was benifet to the viewer.......no wasted time. I liked the explanation at the start were you explained the number identification and its meaning. You really keep the viewer focused. Some other vids people get to the 3 minute mark and they haven't said a thing of value. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK...PAL !!!
I also use 6010 rods to burn holes at the ends of cracks to stop them propagating again and l use them occasionally to cut steel.
They can really eat!
dip them in water and they cut even better....Paulie Brown from weld.com
Yea i was told that about the water from a bud i use to work with at a power plant. I was not as good a welder especially with the 5p and my friend Harvey was a pipe line welder before he came to the plant . We usually used 7018 or what was called for . He helped me out on the 6010 root . We did not test with that . Our 6g test was tig root and then fill with the lo hi ..But i going to say we had some repairs where we used the 6010 root and the lo hi fill and cap ..Because we needed to get the unit back up . Never had a failure doing that . Thanks for the video
Thanks for sharing
Huge amount of information in a relatively short video. Fantastic thanks for sharing your time and expertise
Thanks for the "Welder Tip" at the end of the video. 😉
You bet!
I've been needing a tip like that at the end. Had some bad problems with 6010 flux messing me up not burning off evenly. It was throwing my heat direction off whack and erratic. I've seen guys that would shake the rod real fast as their welding but it doesn't work as great as it should.
I used to whip it. Found reducing amps means...I bump the sides. Use a small circular motion. This breaks the walls down. Of course, pointing the rod when the keyhole closes/opens. Works well. Yes, having a wet rag to wipe a new rod stops finger nailing.
😂s 😊 d❤😊😮
Ive been welding on gate hinges, 3/8" x 4" plate hinge to 4 1/2" pipe post. I cut a slot into the pipe for hinge. Then weld 1/8" 6010 DC+, cap with 5/32 8018 DC+ high amp. All downhill with excellent results
I missed shop talk, thanks, dude.
thanks for hanging out!
fast freeze, great for pen and fill, but right arc length and amps can really put in good root consistent... but sometimes we gotta dig and fill.
Great point!
I usually just run a drag on 6011 unless i really have problems with too much heat. I only run the whip when I am blowing holes in things, but then again, I'm just a hobbyist out in his shop, there's no inspector here other than the wife if its something for around the house.
Thank you so much for the video! Answered my question about if you absolutely have to whip 6010 when you’re not doing open roots 👍🏽
Awesome video !!
Thank you!
@@austinhargett5792 credit where credit is due. See so many welders come and go, stay please 😁
good video 100 % correct
hey Austin, looking fantastic .....always great information,,,,,Paulie Brown
Thanks Paulie!
excellent advanced tuition.
I usually uses 6011 and 6013 as most common sticks to weld general purpose 6011 is more fast weld
I like to wHip it. Thanks for a non-advert vid.
bro i was welding with 6010 and burnt holes in everything and then watched this and it looks way better
On 6010, if you use them in the wrong polarity, what happens? Will it even strike off? I was told it would work in positive electrode, but I tried it out with my welder and it did weld up pretty good. Didn't do a bend test or anything, just practicing but I did it and couldn't really tell a difference. I did have a miller lunch box type welder that does tig as well, so maybe that helped?
Normally ran on DCEP, but can be ran on DCEN to prevent over penetration in the base metals on thinner steel (typically than 1/8”).
@@YT-User1013 dcep brings 66% of heat at the electrode (less penetration) while dcen brings 66% of heat at the plate (more penetration), which i believe is backwards from what you said
Whip and pause will prevent undercut on fillet welds.
Agreed!
Do you buy those turn tables or do you make them?
I made this one. Full video in the weld app!
@@austinhargett5792 sweet! Thank you!
Saludos
Cheers 🍻
As I know it (not vast experience - 6010's frequently not even heard of here in the UK) sometimes the weld will not run stable with a 6010 and you have to "whip" to build up a well-formed regular-and-even bead. That coming from someone who always sets the welding machine to the weld and does a straight run wherever possible, which is most of the time. I offer this while not wanting to contradict your "take".
🔥🔥🔥🔥
🔥
OK,
OK, what about E7014?
We will be doing a series on all fillers soon to come!
Awesome video man. I’m familiar with 6010/6011 but where does the 6013 come in?
6013 isn't going to dig quite as much and will give you a rounder bead profile.
This guy knows his shit. Take his advice
6010 is very good
Wait? Dip the whole rod? Or just the tip of it?
In Europe we don't use 6010 atleast in pipe we normally do the root pass with TIG and then with 7018 or flux cored, and also here in Europe it's not allowed to weld downhill and with reverse polarity
It is pretty wild how different the process can be depending on where you live.
Mmmm... i dont think thats a whip and pause, its more of a backfill weave... we were taught whip and pause means you slightly increase your arc lenght which is supposed to increase the resistance and heat... you whip slightly out and off of the workpiece and pause until you get the desired temperature then return to your puddle/keyhole and continue as normal... basically its to help open a keyhole if you find yourself moving too quickly or feel the amperage was too low so you quickly make up for it by whip(increase arc length) and pause... otherwise if you dont increase the arc length off of the workpiece then you're just laying hot metal on cold steel and when you return to your puddle you just made your job of penetration that much harder... again this was more of a back fill technique where the opposite problem occurs and the piece is too hot and you whip forward rather than out to build up material then return to the puddle and fill over the buildup as to not blow through or get excessive penetration
Cuz it’s a jet rod as we learnt in school