New subscriber! The two scenes of the guys with their compressor explosions scared the hell out of me. Thanks for including that. I have a very old Craftsman 25 gallon horizontal compressor. I used it to frame, then for adding the plywood to the sides and roof of my house way back in the late 90s. We moved into new house 1999. Also used to paint the bullnose around doors and windows. 27 years old. Has only been used sporadically since the late 90’s. I think I drained after every use way back then. Used a few times with an impact gun on very stubborn caliper bolts and replacing CV axles on my 2001 Silverado and sons 2000 Suburban within the last 5 years. If I ever need it again I plan to only plug into 50 ft. 12 gauge extension cord and put it as far as I can from any or everything. Still have 2- 50ft. 3/8” air hoses I used from way back then with the nail gun. Seriously think about making it scrap metal after drilling a hole in it so no one else can get hurt with it. Especially, since I saw part of the exploding compressor end up in a swimming pool several feet from those guys. Wow! Thanks for posting your video.
I was looking for the Part 2 . neat idea using the evapo rust inside. I did a video on tank safety. that has some of the same material from others you used. good job. THE Compressor Guru
Hey there! Thanks for the comment. Yeah, Part 2 is a bit behind as I’m using it as an extra air storage tank right now. Got in to building a CNC which I’ll use for some custom mounts for new silent compressor motors. Still very much on the list to do!
@@VoltageStudio I understand being behind. the youtube thing is an extra thing to running the industrial supply co. I am in Pa perhaps we could collaborate on a project.
@@BlackwaterDSM I will try to pull the plug and look around with an inspection camera this weekend, so far no issues with getting any noticeable powder, etc through the valve / hose quick disconnect or in the tank purge/drain valve output.
Instead of the normal petcock on the bottom of the tank. I put a 90 degree 1/4" pipe fitting in the bottom, with a short piece of 1/4" black pipe, 1/4" gas ball valve on it, and another 90 degree fitting to direct the output towards the ground. Have it sticking out just far enough to be able to open it without crawling on the ground like I did for the standard petcock. Makes it a lot more convenient at the end of the day to drain the tank.
I just picked up a nice 20 gallon compressor at an estate sale for a great price. There was a small leak in one of the fittings that needed to be fixed but the compressor and the motor seem like they are in great condition. I decided to dismantle some things anyway so I could clean it up and inspect the inside of the tank. That's where things went down hill. I emptied probably 5 gallons of water from the tank. The drain was plugged up with sludge and I don't think it has been properly purged for some time. I've spent the last two days doing some cleaning and degreasing of the inside of the tank. At first it looked borderline at best, but now I think it's salvageable. This is a quality tank made of thick metal and the rust seems to be on the surface only. After watching this video is decided that it's worth the cost of 5 gallons of evaporust (almost what I paid for the entire compressor) to bring this back to life and make sure it stays safe. I must say that the explosion clips certainly raised my standard of what was acceptable, that's some scary stuff. This will be in my garage, directly under my daughter's room, and I don't want it to launch itself into the second floor. Thank you for the visuals, it was more effective than just telling us to be careful.
Looking forward to part 2! Im gonna follow some of these steps to recondition my old compressor, but im going to hydrotest mine first to make sure the pressures still good
Sounds like this is the first time you've used Evapo-Rust. For light surface rust 3 days is the minimum IMO. I use it frequently in a paint mixing pail that has an airtight lid and have never seen any pressure buildup. The slight pressure in your tank was more likely from an increase in temperature after sealing it up.
The compressor you showed that blew up, I legit have the same exact one. Its an old Sear/Craftsman. works great! But I've been worried about this happening to me so searched for videos on doing tank liners and your video came up. I should really put a bust disc on my tank.....
a ultrasonic thickness meter (as used for checking engine block web thicknesses between bores) would work extremely well for measuring thickness at different places on these air compressor tanks
I believe a gas tank sealer product like Red Kote would be the perfect solution after the super rust removal by Evaporust! One gallon should do! Just pour & roll to coat all surfaces, including the bottom 3" bung. Remove the bungs & all other plugs. Drain & save the leftovers for other tanks. Let the sum cure it outside for several days until its not tacky. It will last a lifetime! Paul from S. Central Tx.
ive seen someone cut open a compressor from the 60's where 90% of the tank was still bright and uncorroded, the bottom however was deeply pitted due to the nature of horizontal tanks . There was also some corrosion on the top and weld seams, but not as bad as i have seen in other videos of barely 10-20 year old tanks where all the metal was lightly rusted. I think that old tank much have been coated with something.
You really REALLY should install an aftercooler before your desiccant drier!!! It will remove ~70% of the moisture before it even hits the desiccant drier
I dunno... these are pressure vessels, which means they are literally a bomb. Depending on the quality of the steel they used, some rust could cause an explosion when pressurized, while others can withstand 1/4 of the metal corroded away to rust and still be safe. Check the date on the tank placard which is welded onto it, after that date the tank needs to be hydro tested to ensure it is safe, and before if you don't know how well the tank was maintained. Just remember, better safe than sorry or - dead.
I put a set of allens the kind that you unfold to use except these you couldn't tell what they were they were so rusted not to mention you couldn't unfold them in a container of vinegar and in a few days the bottom of the container was full of rust and the allens looked brand new.
My compressor seems to have some blow by of sorts. Oil from the motor is finding its way into the tank (i assume, air smells like the oil) and has rusty water come out when drained. Probably drain a cup or so out per month.
That would not make it safer as what he is speaking about is tanks blowing up at "normal working pressures". The tanks that he showed at the beginning of the video (assumed) to be at normal working pressures. They blew up due to the tanks rupturing (assumed) due to rust and that rust eating away the tank. pressure valves only stop over pressurization
I use vinegar for everything rust cheap, and the longer you soak apart the better it cleans. It also gets rid of oils and other things love vinegar for taking care of rust smells like a jar of pickles.
You ever hear of anything called vinegar we used it on everything caterpillars John Deere whatever had rust on it you just said it in there and then you can move it around a little and it would clean the rust off and didn't cost as much as that young
vinegar being an acid can etch the good metal sometimes before attacking the rust, the evapo-rust is a chelation compound somewhat like EDTA and a bit less prone to that
The MAIN problem is that drains are a coupling put THROUGH a hole and welded. They SHOULD have a Half-coupling welded OVER the drain hole so the entire bottom can be drained. No part of coupling protruding inside to block complete draining.
You really just need a radiator before the tank after the compressor.. that and an oil/water separator catch thats lower than the lowest point on the radiator then piped back up to the tank inlet.. that will 100% keep the tank dry.. you can buy a little power steering cooker radiator with 5/8 tubing and 5 turns with fins and all for 60$.. a desiccant filter before the tank isnt right. Youre gonna change out the desiccant every rip. Even though you can microwave the stuff and reuse it still it will get saturated too quick.. People wonder why they dont coat the tanks and just like old gas tanks, when the coating gets compromised it will take out the whole thing plus when just a spot of the coating gets a hole, moisture will sit inside that pocket and rust quicker.. that and if it flakes itll clog up the whole shit.. probably will shoot out a chunk right when your painting.. lol. Ive heard of people using redguard but ive used that stuff on bathrooms and it can peel off.. rarely but if the surface isnt prepped enough than its more likely to. Best bet is to use a gel spray lube.. that stuff stays.. or some of the automotive stuff in the red top can.. forget what the name is but eric o uses it on every underbody..
I actually picked up a Hankison refrigerated air dryer on marketplace deal BRAND NEW for $150. The model I snagged goes for around $1,100 new. So, stoked with that deal. That with the required separators before & after has ensured moisture free air. Agreed on the coating on the interior. It will at some point be compromised and flake. So, I wouldn’t suggest trying to coat either. If you have a extremely good water separation method (like I currently do) along with auto purge valve (also added). Then it’s really not needed anyways. Thanks for the comment! Good info for others.
por 15 works good on any metal even if its already rusted. You just brush it on and it seals the metal from ever rusting again. I'm sure you can find a way coat the inside of the tank by using your own type brush that can fit in there by way of the 2 big ports on the tank.
Totally. I actually used it to re-coat the frame of my YJ a looooong time ago. I really did consider it, but with an auto-release valve, after-cooler, etc.. I really wanted to see how the tank would hold up with preventative methods like above. My worry was the Por15 pealing and making it's way through the system. I had spots on my frame (which was a frame off restoration) that started to bubble after a few years & peal. Of course different conditions as I really beat that thing up. But, didn't want anything like that making it's way into the airlines. So, decided against it and just went with the rust inhibitor spray on the inside.
What are you using to replace the rust or metal you removed, I get a rust barrier but the metal is theoretically tinner. Maybe a rust converter would be better, ummm.
No need to even think about that in my case. I picked a tank that was open to the atmosphere and relatively new. So, while there was a good coat of surface rust. Nothing major that would be of concern. I certainly do not recommend a tank that is in poor condition. After cleaning, I treated the interior with some Evapo-Rust rust inhibitor. I checked a few weeks ago and it still looks good on the interior. But it also get auto-drained regularly and just opened up if I don't plan on using it for a bit. Tank maintenance is key as well no matter the brand. I don't think I mentioned it.. But I hydrostatically tested the tank prior to placing it in service. Max tank PSI is rated for 200. My compressor will get up to 175. I tested at 300PSI with water (1.5x the max rating, which should be 262.5 PSI in my case. But since the tank is rated for 200, I used that for the calculation. Air compressor tanks (if decent quality) are made much thicker than they actually need to be. Just need to be sensible and do a bit of due-diligence if restoring an old tank. Even a tank a few years old could be a hazard if liquid was left in it from condensation. Luckily, being in the desert. Finding a tank in good condition was pretty easy.
That pressure test is an important thing to mention. I see videos of people repairing or using tanks they know are old or potentially pitted but nobody ever pressure tests them. I assume you hydro tested the tank? @@VoltageStudio
@@Marc83Aus Yup! Hooked the pressure washer up to it and brought it up to pressure. The tank really wasn’t in that bad of condition and was less than two years old. I made sure to pick one out with the drain vents open for a little bit of extra safety. After cleaning, didn’t see anywhere where there was any signs of pitting. Checking out the year the tank was manufactured is important. However.. that by no means makes it so much safer than an older tank that was taken care of. For this tank, being newer and being in Arizona. It was a good find.
6:08 How long to leave purge valve open after purging it of water/moisture to dry it out after use? I've just got a small 50 litre portable silenced 2.75hp not used very often so don't want critters crawling inside., cheers.
Leave it open until water stops draining. Then relieve the pressure either by leaving the drain open or by opening the safety relief valve or a blowing tool.
Old air compressors are like ticking time bombs - you never know when they will go off. It's not a good idea to have a bomb near you... that's why you never repair an airframe older than 10 years. safety first
Just degreaser and a lot of pressure washing. Dried that out and then used the evapo-rust. Not for painting, at least very often. It’s mostly used for my blast cabinet.
Man, just cool the air in a steel or copper pipe array with a drain before it ever goes into the air dryer and compressor. The hot air wonr release moisture but as it cools the moisture will condensate and can be drained off.
Unforgivable I can't get the huge inspection plug to move I used the 1" square adapter with a 3' breaker bar I even tried to heat it up damn thing won't budge
Try borrowing a 3/4" drive impact wrench, use a little heat, penetrating oil, & loosen & tighten back & forth, add more oil, use an air hammer to lightly vibrate the fitting so the oil will penetrate deeper, then use the impact back & forth. Be patient. Eventuall it will budge. Once free, clean the fitting threads with wire brush or wire wheel, then clean the tank threads too with wire brush. Once really clean, coat both of the threads with Bostick Stainless Steel Anti-Sieze lubricant. It will never stick again!
use a Rose Bud oxy propane for hotter heat than acetylene while still hot melt wax around threads ... old timer mechanic trick to remove stubborn oil gallery plugs back of engine blocks
@@immanutt4442 That sounds like horrible advise. No way would I ever put heat like that on a pressure vessel. The steel could be damaged by the heat and increase the chances of the tank failing catastrophically.
@@David-hm9icsaid " Pressure Vessel " is Not pressurized for this repair and the parent metal would Not be compromised simply by heating to only a few hundred degrees . That being said No carbon is sacrificed that would be harmful to the structural integrity .
You should check out the phrase “Weigh a ton” in the dictionary. But incase you don’t feel like it. Here’s the definition with examples. weigh a ton - To be extremely heavy. Most often refers to something that must (and can feasibly) be handled by hand, as opposed to something that actually weighs a ton or more. - Greg, go get your brother to help us lift this thing. It weighs a ton! So yes. I’m well aware how much one ton is when converted to lbs. I’m also aware that per the definition, it can be used to describe something very heavy as indicated above.
Nice video, but..for what it's worth...you talk a little too fast. Hard to make you out at times. Other than that, good idea on the Evapo-Rust treatment. I swear by the stuff. I use it all the time, and it's not cheap up here in Canada....$100 Canadian for the 5 gallon pail!
True, 1k and less depending on what you're looking at. But as I said in the beginning of the video. I'm building out my own silent air compressor version. I have a 1.5HP 10 gallon compressor that's respectively 69dBA capable of 175PSI & 4.3SCFM @ 90PSI. I'll grab another motor with the same specs for around $250, tie both of them into the tank to double the capacity & CNC a mounting plate for the pair of them. Which for my purposes is plenty for occasionally sandblasting small parts or air-blast for the CNC. With the tank, cleanup, dual-motors, etc.. I'll have a very quiet and capable compressor setup for around $600 total and less than a weekends worth of time one all repainted and assembled. To me, that's worth it. Considering a similar setup with silent compressor motors is easily over 2k. Totally get not wanting to put in the time and effort if you have cash burning a hole in your pocket. Especially if this is for a business that relies on an air compressor. But this kind of stuff comes really easy to me and I also enjoy doing it. Plus, I'd rather spend that additional $1,600 elsewhere and I certainly did on my CNC build.
New subscriber! The two scenes of the guys with their compressor explosions scared the hell out of me. Thanks for including that.
I have a very old Craftsman 25 gallon horizontal compressor. I used it to frame, then for adding the plywood to the sides and roof of my house way back in the late 90s. We moved into new house 1999. Also used to paint the bullnose around doors and windows. 27 years old. Has only been used sporadically since the late 90’s. I think I drained after every use way back then. Used a few times with an impact gun on very stubborn caliper bolts and replacing CV axles on my 2001 Silverado and sons 2000 Suburban within the last 5 years. If I ever need it again I plan to only plug into 50 ft. 12 gauge extension cord and put it as far as I can from any or everything. Still have 2- 50ft. 3/8” air hoses I used from way back then with the nail gun.
Seriously think about making it scrap metal after drilling a hole in it so no one else can get hurt with it. Especially, since I saw part of the exploding compressor end up in a swimming pool several feet from those guys. Wow! Thanks for posting your video.
I was looking for the Part 2 . neat idea using the evapo rust inside. I did a video on tank safety. that has some of the same material from others you used. good job. THE Compressor Guru
Hey there! Thanks for the comment.
Yeah, Part 2 is a bit behind as I’m using it as an extra air storage tank right now. Got in to building a CNC which I’ll use for some custom mounts for new silent compressor motors. Still very much on the list to do!
@@VoltageStudio I understand being behind. the youtube thing is an extra thing to running the industrial supply co. I am in Pa perhaps we could collaborate on a project.
I've recently been adding ZRC cold galvanizing aka 95%+ Zinc coating, no long term results as of yet
@@1DwtEaUn It’s been 6 months… long term result time? Lol
@@BlackwaterDSM I will try to pull the plug and look around with an inspection camera this weekend, so far no issues with getting any noticeable powder, etc through the valve / hose quick disconnect or in the tank purge/drain valve output.
Instead of the normal petcock on the bottom of the tank. I put a 90 degree 1/4" pipe fitting in the bottom, with a short piece of 1/4" black pipe, 1/4" gas ball valve on it, and another 90 degree fitting to direct the output towards the ground. Have it sticking out just far enough to be able to open it without crawling on the ground like I did for the standard petcock. Makes it a lot more convenient at the end of the day to drain the tank.
I put that drain pipe on with a ball valve and a hose fitting so I can run a hose outside to dump it on the ground.
I just picked up a nice 20 gallon compressor at an estate sale for a great price. There was a small leak in one of the fittings that needed to be fixed but the compressor and the motor seem like they are in great condition. I decided to dismantle some things anyway so I could clean it up and inspect the inside of the tank. That's where things went down hill. I emptied probably 5 gallons of water from the tank. The drain was plugged up with sludge and I don't think it has been properly purged for some time. I've spent the last two days doing some cleaning and degreasing of the inside of the tank. At first it looked borderline at best, but now I think it's salvageable. This is a quality tank made of thick metal and the rust seems to be on the surface only. After watching this video is decided that it's worth the cost of 5 gallons of evaporust (almost what I paid for the entire compressor) to bring this back to life and make sure it stays safe.
I must say that the explosion clips certainly raised my standard of what was acceptable, that's some scary stuff. This will be in my garage, directly under my daughter's room, and I don't want it to launch itself into the second floor. Thank you for the visuals, it was more effective than just telling us to be careful.
Looking forward to part 2! Im gonna follow some of these steps to recondition my old compressor, but im going to hydrotest mine first to make sure the pressures still good
😮😮😮😮😮 that stuff works ridiculously good!!! You got your money’s worth bud! Enjoy!!!
Sounds like this is the first time you've used Evapo-Rust. For light surface rust 3 days is the minimum IMO. I use it frequently in a paint mixing pail that has an airtight lid and have never seen any pressure buildup. The slight pressure in your tank was more likely from an increase in temperature after sealing it up.
The compressor you showed that blew up, I legit have the same exact one. Its an old Sear/Craftsman. works great! But I've been worried about this happening to me so searched for videos on doing tank liners and your video came up. I should really put a bust disc on my tank.....
Is it silly to ask why the manufacturer doesnt coat or line the tank.? Aluminim cans have a thin plastic liner why cant these. ?
I'm wondering the same but maybe there is a problem with expansion, contraction, and heating cycles.
*Planned Obsolescence*
It must be a cost cutting idea.
a ultrasonic thickness meter (as used for checking engine block web thicknesses between bores) would work extremely well for measuring thickness at different places on these air compressor tanks
“Arizona in the summer”. Brother you doing great
Manufacturers need to coat the insides of these tanks. I wonder what gas tank liner coating would protect the tank?
it would just be an excuse to charge more.
I believe a gas tank sealer product like Red Kote would be the perfect solution after the super rust removal by Evaporust! One gallon should do! Just pour & roll to coat all surfaces, including the bottom 3" bung. Remove the bungs & all other plugs. Drain & save the leftovers for other tanks. Let the sum cure it outside for several days until its not tacky. It will last a lifetime! Paul from S. Central Tx.
I agree
How about flex seal…
ive seen someone cut open a compressor from the 60's where 90% of the tank was still bright and uncorroded, the bottom however was deeply pitted due to the nature of horizontal tanks . There was also some corrosion on the top and weld seams, but not as bad as i have seen in other videos of barely 10-20 year old tanks where all the metal was lightly rusted. I think that old tank much have been coated with something.
You really REALLY should install an aftercooler before your desiccant drier!!! It will remove ~70% of the moisture before it even hits the desiccant drier
Oh for sure. I have parts for it actually sitting on the shelf. As I do for many projects.. One of these days it will be properly setup!
Very nice 👍🏼 please let us know how it works out in a video maybe 🤔
I dunno... these are pressure vessels, which means they are literally a bomb. Depending on the quality of the steel they used, some rust could cause an explosion when pressurized, while others can withstand 1/4 of the metal corroded away to rust and still be safe. Check the date on the tank placard which is welded onto it, after that date the tank needs to be hydro tested to ensure it is safe, and before if you don't know how well the tank was maintained. Just remember, better safe than sorry or - dead.
The final step before putting a used air tank to use is a hydrostatic test, particularly for the cheap imported tanks like this one.
Yup! The tank was hydrostatically tested after I got the oil, etc.. cleaned out. Prior to rust removal.
I put a set of allens the kind that you unfold to use except these you couldn't tell what they were they were so rusted not to mention you couldn't unfold them in a container of vinegar and in a few days the bottom of the container was full of rust and the allens looked brand new.
How did you apply the Rust-Block?
Did you reach your hand up inside??
You leave out some details.
My compressor seems to have some blow by of sorts. Oil from the motor is finding its way into the tank (i assume, air smells like the oil) and has rusty water come out when drained. Probably drain a cup or so out per month.
use Red Kote tank paint
Why they don't put liners like 55 gal drums⁉️
Could you install a back up pressure valve to release pressure for extra safety?
That would not make it safer as what he is speaking about is tanks blowing up at "normal working pressures". The tanks that he showed at the beginning of the video (assumed) to be at normal working pressures. They blew up due to the tanks rupturing (assumed) due to rust and that rust eating away the tank. pressure valves only stop over pressurization
I use vinegar for everything rust cheap, and the longer you soak apart the better it cleans. It also gets rid of oils and other things love vinegar for taking care of rust smells like a jar of pickles.
Use a engine crane then set it on a furniture dolly and move it to where you want then lift it off with the engine lift and set it in place
What happened to part 2?
Hi did you ever have a look to see if it stopped the rust happening? I did look for a part 2 but could not see one yet
white vinegar works good too.
looking for the Part 2 , have you made it yet?
You ever hear of anything called vinegar we used it on everything caterpillars John Deere whatever had rust on it you just said it in there and then you can move it around a little and it would clean the rust off and didn't cost as much as that young
Where is the follow-up video?
Old or used tanks should be hydro tested!
It can be done with a power sprayer. There are videos on TH-cam.
Will Distilled White Vinegar do the same and be just as effective & less expensive?
vinegar being an acid can etch the good metal sometimes before attacking the rust, the evapo-rust is a chelation compound somewhat like EDTA and a bit less prone to that
M'ole lady has some vinegar under her bathroom sink ... keeps her ol' cooter from gettin' all rusty anat
The MAIN problem is that drains are a coupling put THROUGH a hole and welded. They SHOULD have a Half-coupling welded OVER the drain hole so the entire bottom can be drained. No part of coupling protruding inside to block complete draining.
You really just need a radiator before the tank after the compressor.. that and an oil/water separator catch thats lower than the lowest point on the radiator then piped back up to the tank inlet.. that will 100% keep the tank dry.. you can buy a little power steering cooker radiator with 5/8 tubing and 5 turns with fins and all for 60$.. a desiccant filter before the tank isnt right. Youre gonna change out the desiccant every rip. Even though you can microwave the stuff and reuse it still it will get saturated too quick..
People wonder why they dont coat the tanks and just like old gas tanks, when the coating gets compromised it will take out the whole thing plus when just a spot of the coating gets a hole, moisture will sit inside that pocket and rust quicker.. that and if it flakes itll clog up the whole shit.. probably will shoot out a chunk right when your painting.. lol. Ive heard of people using redguard but ive used that stuff on bathrooms and it can peel off.. rarely but if the surface isnt prepped enough than its more likely to. Best bet is to use a gel spray lube.. that stuff stays.. or some of the automotive stuff in the red top can.. forget what the name is but eric o uses it on every underbody..
I actually picked up a Hankison refrigerated air dryer on marketplace deal BRAND NEW for $150. The model I snagged goes for around $1,100 new. So, stoked with that deal. That with the required separators before & after has ensured moisture free air.
Agreed on the coating on the interior. It will at some point be compromised and flake. So, I wouldn’t suggest trying to coat either. If you have a extremely good water separation method (like I currently do) along with auto purge valve (also added). Then it’s really not needed anyways.
Thanks for the comment! Good info for others.
Did you ever check if the rust came back?
por 15 works good on any metal even if its already rusted. You just brush it on and it seals the metal from ever rusting again. I'm sure you can find a way coat the inside of the tank by using your own type brush that can fit in there by way of the 2 big ports on the tank.
Totally. I actually used it to re-coat the frame of my YJ a looooong time ago.
I really did consider it, but with an auto-release valve, after-cooler, etc.. I really wanted to see how the tank would hold up with preventative methods like above.
My worry was the Por15 pealing and making it's way through the system. I had spots on my frame (which was a frame off restoration) that started to bubble after a few years & peal. Of course different conditions as I really beat that thing up. But, didn't want anything like that making it's way into the airlines. So, decided against it and just went with the rust inhibitor spray on the inside.
What about using vinegar?
What are you using to replace the rust or metal you removed, I get a rust barrier but the metal is theoretically tinner. Maybe a rust converter would be better, ummm.
No need to even think about that in my case. I picked a tank that was open to the atmosphere and relatively new. So, while there was a good coat of surface rust. Nothing major that would be of concern. I certainly do not recommend a tank that is in poor condition. After cleaning, I treated the interior with some Evapo-Rust rust inhibitor. I checked a few weeks ago and it still looks good on the interior. But it also get auto-drained regularly and just opened up if I don't plan on using it for a bit. Tank maintenance is key as well no matter the brand.
I don't think I mentioned it.. But I hydrostatically tested the tank prior to placing it in service. Max tank PSI is rated for 200. My compressor will get up to 175. I tested at 300PSI with water (1.5x the max rating, which should be 262.5 PSI in my case. But since the tank is rated for 200, I used that for the calculation.
Air compressor tanks (if decent quality) are made much thicker than they actually need to be. Just need to be sensible and do a bit of due-diligence if restoring an old tank. Even a tank a few years old could be a hazard if liquid was left in it from condensation. Luckily, being in the desert. Finding a tank in good condition was pretty easy.
That pressure test is an important thing to mention. I see videos of people repairing or using tanks they know are old or potentially pitted but nobody ever pressure tests them. I assume you hydro tested the tank? @@VoltageStudio
@@Marc83Aus Yup! Hooked the pressure washer up to it and brought it up to pressure.
The tank really wasn’t in that bad of condition and was less than two years old. I made sure to pick one out with the drain vents open for a little bit of extra safety. After cleaning, didn’t see anywhere where there was any signs of pitting.
Checking out the year the tank was manufactured is important. However.. that by no means makes it so much safer than an older tank that was taken care of. For this tank, being newer and being in Arizona. It was a good find.
6:08 How long to leave purge valve open after purging it of water/moisture to dry it out after use? I've just got a small 50 litre portable silenced 2.75hp not used very often so don't want critters crawling inside., cheers.
Leave it open until water stops draining. Then relieve the pressure either by leaving the drain open or by opening the safety relief valve or a blowing tool.
Feed mill Molasses mixed 4parts water to 1part Molasses should do the trick
Old air compressors are like ticking time bombs - you never know when they will go off. It's not a good idea to have a bomb near you... that's why you never repair an airframe older than 10 years. safety first
how did you clean the inside of the tank to remove the evapo-rust? are you using the tank/compressor for painting vehicles?
Just degreaser and a lot of pressure washing. Dried that out and then used the evapo-rust.
Not for painting, at least very often. It’s mostly used for my blast cabinet.
@@VoltageStudio many thanks.. im only painting one car.. but would hate for any residual fumes do something to the paint out of the gun
@ 3:06 ... 2 points!
now check it after you use it and it will look like before lol
How did the evaporust work?
Great!
Check out time stamp 21:14 to see the results yourself.
Man, just cool the air in a steel or copper pipe array with a drain before it ever goes into the air dryer and compressor. The hot air wonr release moisture but as it cools the moisture will condensate and can be drained off.
Unforgivable I can't get the huge inspection plug to move I used the 1" square adapter with a 3' breaker bar I even tried to heat it up damn thing won't budge
Wow.. I sure hate when things like that happen. It’s usually something thats supposed to be easy like that too of course..
Try borrowing a 3/4" drive impact wrench, use a little heat, penetrating oil, & loosen & tighten back & forth, add more oil, use an air hammer to lightly vibrate the fitting so the oil will penetrate deeper, then use the impact back & forth. Be patient. Eventuall it will budge. Once free, clean the fitting threads with wire brush or wire wheel, then clean the tank threads too with wire brush. Once really clean, coat both of the threads with Bostick Stainless Steel Anti-Sieze lubricant. It will never stick again!
use a Rose Bud oxy propane for hotter heat than acetylene while still hot melt wax around threads ... old timer mechanic trick to remove stubborn oil gallery plugs back of engine blocks
@@immanutt4442 That sounds like horrible advise. No way would I ever put heat like that on a pressure vessel. The steel could be damaged by the heat and increase the chances of the tank failing catastrophically.
@@David-hm9icsaid " Pressure Vessel " is Not pressurized for this repair and the parent metal would Not be compromised simply by heating to only a few hundred degrees . That being said No carbon is sacrificed that would be harmful to the structural integrity .
Unless you perform a hydro test on it, rust free means nothing.
Hydro test was the first thing I did. 👍🏻
💯👍💪🙏
Apparently you don't realize that a ton is 2000 lb!!!
That's a huge exaggeration!!!
You could say a huge amount or a lot, etc!
You should check out the phrase “Weigh a ton” in the dictionary. But incase you don’t feel like it. Here’s the definition with examples.
weigh a ton -
To be extremely heavy. Most often refers to something that must (and can feasibly) be handled by hand, as opposed to something that actually weighs a ton or more.
- Greg, go get your brother to help us lift this thing. It weighs a ton!
So yes. I’m well aware how much one ton is when converted to lbs. I’m also aware that per the definition, it can be used to describe something very heavy as indicated above.
Nice video, but..for what it's worth...you talk a little too fast. Hard to make you out at times. Other than that, good idea on the Evapo-Rust treatment. I swear by the stuff. I use it all the time, and it's not cheap up here in Canada....$100 Canadian for the 5 gallon pail!
simple solution ... look for the * icon then slow down play back speed
1000 bucks gets you a new one. No time wasted trying to clean or money spent on chemicals or labor. Not for me.
True, 1k and less depending on what you're looking at. But as I said in the beginning of the video. I'm building out my own silent air compressor version. I have a 1.5HP 10 gallon compressor that's respectively 69dBA capable of 175PSI & 4.3SCFM @ 90PSI. I'll grab another motor with the same specs for around $250, tie both of them into the tank to double the capacity & CNC a mounting plate for the pair of them. Which for my purposes is plenty for occasionally sandblasting small parts or air-blast for the CNC.
With the tank, cleanup, dual-motors, etc.. I'll have a very quiet and capable compressor setup for around $600 total and less than a weekends worth of time one all repainted and assembled. To me, that's worth it. Considering a similar setup with silent compressor motors is easily over 2k.
Totally get not wanting to put in the time and effort if you have cash burning a hole in your pocket. Especially if this is for a business that relies on an air compressor. But this kind of stuff comes really easy to me and I also enjoy doing it. Plus, I'd rather spend that additional $1,600 elsewhere and I certainly did on my CNC build.
@@VoltageStudio Eastwood sells what you need.
@@lawrencejones4161 Not sure what you mean.
I don't think the purpose of this video was to convince people who have the money to buy a new air compressor to restore one instead....
@@justinwolf2854 all tanks rust and have a lifespan should be pressure tested, be save.
Why don't manufacturers just paint the inside of the tanks? Epoxy coat... anything