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Damn that is a crazy set up. I mean damn why such dry air? Wouldn't a air / water seperator like you have... and you have two get all the water out. The ones I have and have one at the compressor and one at the tool... I never have had any water issues. If you are using air tools you can get a inline oiler. I think you might be like me and go crazy overboard. I have gotten better as I have gotten older. Regardless of my blabbering... killer set up Bro !!!

Living up to its name....

Motor looks and sounds great..

Seems like a setup issue with me. A good tuner should be able to balance your carbs on a rolling road.

Nice job..on your piping..yes china ..sad..but..I used black piping..in my home shop...with drip leg..with ball valve..rule of thumb...all made in China.. I'm old school pipe filter..in my late 50,s..I bought a new comprsoir..this yr..my unit was shipped with pads..from Saylor-beall..in st.johns,Michigan.. check them out on utube..quite units...all American iron too..mine shipped with a magnetic starter..so the pressure switch don't burn out..ty for the video...oh I put bolts on my unit...as u did..I have grand kids..running around ,no one to get hurt..safety..again great video..

I didn't anchor my Quincy QT-54 down but I did make some isolation feet by using hockey pucks. Hockey pucks makes great rubber feet for heavy machinery and are cheap and easy to use. I drilled a 1/2" hole thru the puck and recessed the center of the puck about 3/8" and used a carriage bolt. It worked out great. If I need extra support for the puck feet, I buy some 3" x 1/4" round drops from ebay really cheap and center drill them and tap them. Then put the round steel drops on top of the puck. I did that for my heavy cnc milling machine that I converted.

Hi - what headers do you have?

Nice set up

For that much money, why not just buy an air dryer.

I have watched numerous videos on water trap systems, you are the only one who did it right. The outlet port of the tank must be higher than the connection to the water trap system otherwise the water will run back into the compressor tank. Very nice system, I'm impressed. That first water separator removes the water from the air travel path. Your system is well thought out, very nice !!!

spark plug cap easy fix

Try pulling a little the choike , it is not tuned your carburtor to your camshaft and engine , take out spark plugs and see them one by one

Great job! Are you using copper in the attic as well? By the way, great blue music in the background! Who is it?!!

Have you ever looked into cooling and filtering the air after it comes out of the pump before it go is into the tank. so it stops water going into the compressor tank?

I’m having a weird situation. I have a desiccant with oil remover filter and a regulator with another filter going to a 3/8 air hose with all high flow fittings. The tank is 80gallons and the regulator is set to about 90psi from the hose. I noticed that when I use a tool the hose shrinks almost like it was full to the max but as soon as I use it shrinks. I don’t seem to be losing air pressure as I’m using the tool though. Should I get a regular regulator with no filter? Maybe I’m having a little air restriction? I have 1/2 copper lines going into a 3/8 hose. Another think I’m thinking is maybe it’s too much air pressurized in the hose. I don’t want that hose exploding on me

I'm currently knee deep in my own air project. Hopefully I'll get a video installment added this weekend....please drop by and say hello! Enjoyed the vid.... keep on keeping on.

Only just spotted your post and Hope you are well and you may well have had this sorted out by now, I would love to hear your story, The car sounds fantastic with it low exhaust note. I have done the same with Webers on my spit Mk2 ,though unfortunately I have had to put my project on hold since my wife past away from cancer and small children is my focus these days. Webers are very tricky things to set up as you are trying to balance 4 separate, and individual carbs to act as one , adjustments are very small when trying to get them all running at the same speed. I went as far as even Gasflowing the head and enlarging intake valves and a heavy mod race cam profile. The whole inner choke on a weber can be replaced and swapped out if you can find them maybe try getting some 38s as I have heard that in 60s Monti Carlo they use to run them. you can drop the venturi effect to low and the Webers need more gas velocity to get atomisation happening. As one or two peps mentioned running lean or air leaks are a prob with Webers and they can draw air in around the Butterfly spindles when the wear out , the first thing you do when you recon the Webers is upgrade this seal area. Your advance timing curve is another area to focus on, I personally have to husband my resources these days and are not able to extend to plumbing in and up grading to adjustable programmable electronic ignition systems, then you will need a rolling road test to fine tune the emulsion tubes that are interchangeable etc etc Yip more money and fun and games Best of luck let me know how you get on. Kris

DON'T call them Spitfires for nothing ! Miss my 1300 mk 111 Can't afford one now !

Great video, when you said you had 3 sticks of pipe, were they 20'? That looks a lot of piping to me.. about how long are each piece before the elbows?

Make sure both carbies are balanced together that can cause spitting, I've just put twin 40dcoe webers on my GD Galant with sohc 1.6 4g32 and had to convert points to pertronix electronic ignition because of to much timing drift .

Are you in UK

I d blame those Webers. Too big for small engine, put the S.U.s back on. Sure Webers give more power but they will wreck your engine if not correctly set up.

Quincy specifys NOT to use isolation pads in their manual (Sept 2018 Edition) in reference to vertical models.

Your setup is awesome! So many people think they know a better way. Yours is great the way it is. Too much is always better than just enogh. But what are those two filters above that yellow filter? Shouldn't the air be passing through them for them to work? I didn't see a connection for a hose at the end of the filters.

In the 60's we always painted the gasket with silver paint.Today we use Permatex spray copper coat.

Called sneezing, not spiting. To lean. Should just occure at minus 20 c degrees. ;)

That’s really nice👍🏻

Me....I bought a 120.00 heat exchanger off if ebay that's rated for 360psi. A lot less money and time spent doing the up and down method

Everything else is perfect, good job.

3 sticks is fifty

I like your setup, insure if I want to go the air drier route or air condenser

My Brother, what is the reason for the $200 worth of up and down on the copper? Do you have that much water? I have ordered the quincy compressor and I am planning the piping now but I was thinking about doing this after the compressor but before it reaches the tank.

Love it man.. only difference is I piped mine directly off the compressor to the water separator then to the tank.. that way I don’t get water in the tank itself..

Geez sus...... use a tripod!!!!

I love watching your car and hearing it purr like a kitten. Aside from the weber carbs and the homemade intake is the aeronautical starter switch....something about the red flip cover and switch makes you think you're in a rocket jet ready to blast off! 👍

oh, yeah...these engines do not have "timing marks" for the cam and the crankshaft, to sync them...for this reason, they get put back together with the timing of the cam, and crank, wrong, a lot...essentially, the engine will run with the cam installed 180 degrees out, or "backwards"...meaning, the number one cylinder is timed to the crank when it's actually on the exhaust stroke, at "top-dead-center"...and not at the top of the compression stroke, at "top-dead-center"...and this might be the reason you do not have consistent compression readings, on all 4 cylinders...or, the cam is installed almost right, but it's a few teeth off, since you need a "degree wheel" to know where it's actually installed, and a dial indicator to find the "true tdc" of the motor...best wishes, john kruschke--

here's my "two-cents"...the trouble was the head gasket, the two cylinders that were sharing compression was probably piston #2, and piston #3...the issue is, that piston 2, and piston 3 go up at the same time...so, you are getting exhaust entering the #2 piston, and this leans out the mixture with exhaust gases, from piston # 3...so, you are getting a lean mixture popping sound, out of the intake, on cylinder number two...running a richer mixture on number two might have stopped the popping sound, this sound is similar to when engines are running out of gas, yet there is nothing wrong with the engine...the mixture is just too lean, and you get a little combustion in the intake, from heat i believe...anyway, the issue is the two cylinders both going up at the same time, from the way the crank is designed...meaning...the cylinders go up at the same time, in the center of the engine, where bowing of the head is most likely...the two eventually start to share compression, from head bowing, one is going up on an exhaust stroke, when the other is going up on it's compression stroke( i haven't checked, i am just guessing that it's number 3 on the exhaust, and number two on the compression strokes)...i hope this helps...also, sometimes the idle-air bypass is set poorly...you need a special tool, to check each venturi, of the two carburetors air-speed, to equalize them, like a motorcycle mechanic does...so, taking it to a motorcycle mechanic is best, he/she can "sync the carbs", and set the mixture, after setting air speed, and timing...it's a lost art, that most most motorcycle techs are still good at...lean popping can be from unequal air-speeds through the carb throats, or, sometimes you need to go with a smaller venturi, in the carb...webbers have replaceable "chokes", or "venturis", so you can step-up, or go down in size...and often going with a smaller venturi, will increase the vacuum signal to the main jets, and solve the lean-popping issue, right there...ask your local motorcycle tech to "sync the carbs", and after he does, if it still pops, or performs poorly, get a set of smaller venturis for the carbs, and have him do it again...problem solved, most likely...best wishes, john kruschke...P.S.> make sure the distributor's mechanical advance, and vacuum advance, is functioning properly too...the weights on old distributors with mechanical advance, are often seized, and need new springs...or, the vacuum advance does not function as it should, from a ruptured vacuum advance, or no vacuum signal to it, from a bad vacuum line, or incorrect routing...also, sometimes the cam is so big, there is no vacuum from the engine, to run the distributors vacuum advance...use a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum signal to the diaphram, and then check the diaphram for a bad seal/leak--

Wow man, good job. I think it's a bit of overkill though. I've seen many people run the dryer with just one to three loops at most. Saw you are in Florida though so I suppose it makes sense to have more since you are already swimming in the air lol.

The chokes are the inlets of the carbs, each choke, and you have 4 of them, has a mixture screw. On the choke that keeps popping either the mixture is weak or you have a blocked jet. With these webers, each choke acts like a separate carb, in effect 4 carbs, each choke has an accelerator jet an idle system and a cold start choke. to set them up properly you need to strip them and blow out all jets and passagesand after re-fitting to the inlet manifold loosen off the throttle butterflys connecting rods and set all butterflys at zero opening, when that is done set all 4 butterflys to about 1 full turn on the throttle adjusting screws, make sure all butterflys are opening equally from zero to full throttle. adjust all 4 mixture screws to about 1 full turn out from fully in, this is your starting point. Whenever you adjust 1 mixture you must adjust all 4 mixtures to the same position, check your plugs to see how they are burning, they should be a nice brown colour, the colour of biscuits, adjust your mixtures to achieve this colour. When you`ve done all of that have a nice cup of tea then go for a relaxing drive. Paul

Sounds to me like a weak mixture on that choke. You do know that the mixtures are adjustable for each choke on the weber 40s don`t you?

Looks like a great job. I'm about to install plumbing in my garage and am a complete idiot on doing this project. Can someone tell me why all of the extra vertical plumbing lines? Thanks in advance

This is my favorite video.... hands down! You can't help but get excited every time you start that engine! The low rumble purr is just great! I think its the fact that it sounds like a current car fresh off the lot. Sure there are some great v8 cars around but they've got this odd burble that make it sounds so rough and off. This is a good mix of bang and pop if I have ever heard one! You got to do another video of just start up. Don't talk. Just start it up and drive and come back. I know your vid is older but I hope your health is going well.

Good setup with the copper. I saw pics where a guy did the same thing, but he had 45° elbows instead of 90° elbows to help it flow better. He then had blow out valves at every end just like you. Do you see any PSI drop from where the copper starts to where it ends?

Dissimilar metal corrosion happens when you run hot moisture laden air through copper, like this system has. The air comes out of the cylinder, moves through the copper picking up microscopic amounts of copper and copper oxides as it cools and condenses, and then produces high levels of corrosion anywhere it contacts aluminum. Like expensive air tools. So just eliminate copper from your system altogether, or only use it at a point in the system where all the moisture has been removed, such as downstream from a large desiccant air dryer. I'm aware that many commercial compressors like this one use short lengths of copper tubing and often to no detriment, but adding more to the system - especially where the air stream has cooled and moisture condensed out - is simply begging for long term damage. There's several TH-camrs with videos who can attest to that.

hands down its your timing , i know have dual 40s on mine

Awesome ride! What did you need to do to get those Miata 15" rims and wheels on? What's the offset? Sounds so f'ing good! Those Monzas and the dual carbs just make it. I still can't believe the sound that is making out of a 1500!

Nice setup, but you should spend a little more time cleaning out all that crap you have in by the compressor. Shop looks like shit.

Very nice spit still available? Truly interested respond for my email thank you!

Awesome job on the piping. Nice setup​. You don't need to bolt your compressor down I have mine on the same style vibration pads as you do and my qt5​ has not moved at all. thanks for sharing the great video.