Dual air compressor DIY air dryer system
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Here we document the process of building a bespoke air drying water trap system using a dual BURISCH BT390T air compressor setup. Using standard 15mm copper plumbing and 1/2"BSP/15mm compression fittings.
This video is a great example of how not to sweat copper pipe and how not to apply teflon tape.
I do one fitting at a time myself. I find the opposite to be true doing multiple fittings. Just finished a 2000sqft shop with a full 3/4 copper shaped like a horseshoe and 1/2 copper over the back side ceiling to finish off a full circle halo that also acts as a giant water trap at the one end keeping moisture from traveling through the system. System is for a 20hp compair screw compressor and there are no leaks. Using map gas works great. I prefer to use a good amount of solder on my air lines. For water that’s much different but I can assure you my fittings will never leak. Bye copper is known to provide drier air so avoiding nylon, pvc, gray pipe will significantly reduce moisture issues a person may have.
Are you crazy with that Teflon tape. OMG
one fine point is that if you place those T's opposite from where you have them on the straight down pipes you will capture the water vapor better and the tubes to the drain should be no less than 4". I personally did mine 6" in length. Use the T to create a turbulent effect and the water drop down easier than if you run it straight down the way you did. Basically swap your 90 with your T. Perhaps too late now, but, it does work better that way.
Best way is to use a union,,, how are you keeping the two tanks from running into each other? With no check valves
Good video but one other thing is you did 16 wraps with the Teflon tape. 2 to 3 wraps is plenty unless the grooves in the threads are deep then maybe 4 or 5 wraps. You did wrap the teflon in the correct direction though, and typically one and 1/4 turn for the compression fitting.
Look again at 17:20 He does what it looks like to me is 21 wraps. it is super excessive
17:25
Holy moly.... Why sooo much tape??
Thats waaaay too much. Wrap it 2 or 3 times around. Thats it.
just made one of these myself, but will be adding a DIY desiccant tube. parts are ordered...subscribe if you want to see how I do it!
Good video. As a thought, would it be best to take the outlet from the top of the last leg
Also tie those lower legs together with a horizontal run, and you can use one ball valve to drain all the drop legs.
@@mikemarler8224 don't you think if you do that air will just take short way .?
Smart boy.
@@mikemarler8224 Can't tie those legs with horizontal run because the air would travel trough it pushing the condensed water directly to the outlet instead of up and down, up and down which is how the water condensates
you can also bend the tubing and use compression fittings. Go from tube to npt fittings.
Use a larger diameter copper piping with both more surface area and slower air flow since it acts like an expansion chamber compared to the 1/2" copper. This should let you pull the same amount of water out of a single stage rather than 2 or more stages. Also, consider using a high flow (cross flow) condenser inline before the single stage vertical copper line. Put a fan on the condenser if you want, but even without it, tons of heat will be removed from the air before it gets to your lines causing water to fall out of the air as it crosses through the dew point. Outlet of compressor -> inlet of condenser -> a tee that goes up to the veritical copper pipe (large diameter) with some pipe at the bottom of the tee to drain the water and a valve at the end. All your water in one valve instead of checking 3 valves. Remember: If you double the diameter of the copper pipe, you are actually increasing the cross section by a factor of 4x! So 1" copper flows the same volume of air at 1/4th the speed of 1/2" copper. If you can use 1.5" or 2" copper, that is even better slowing the air down 8x in the copper. 2" copper costs more, but so does having 2 or 3 stages.
It’s a good recommendation. But considering the outrageous cost of 2” copper, I’d be willing to use baseboard radiators instead. The fins allow greater cooling, and in some cases you can find VG condition used copper baseboard cheap or free
More surface area, but less surface area per unit volume, the surface area to volume ratio... So your more actually = less cooling of that volume. More thin tubes will always beat a few thicker ones. An easy way to understand this, two 1/2" tubes have a lot more total surface area than one 1" tube, but have exactly the same volume.
Excellent,thank you very much,do the two compressors have to be adjusted so one of them isn’t doing all the work ? and if so how is that done ?
Has someone measured the dryness of the air that comes out of this?
Do you own stock in the teflon tape company ? You only need 2, possibly 3 wraps of tape on the threads. Any more than that keeps the fitting from threading in completely.
Wouldn't it be better to cool the air as it comes out pump before it goes into compressor tank? Stopping water getting in tank.
I like this system. Dry air would certainly be nice for running my everlast plasma cutter.
Another Neverlast Spam trying to bring attention to a crappy brand.
The ball valve arrangement is a needless expense and complication. If the assembly were turned 90* clockwise, the inlet would be at the top. Since heat travels upward naturally, placing the hot air inlet at that location makes better sense. Next, either run the same configuration without all the extra ball valves, and only using copper 90*s, and flexing the longer runs downward, giving the condensate a natural downward course toward the single ball valve at the end. OR, run the entire path with soft copper in one piece in the same configuration with a single ball valve at the bottom
Do you have a photo of what you suggest
@@Interdiction Seem my response above. It's not as smart as you'd think.
How is this working for you?
Also, can i make the run between each of the vertical pipes shorter or will this effect the way it collects the moisture?
Would like to make the entire thing more narrow...
Works great. Yes. Make it any size you like really.
I'm going to attempt put an air dryer system for the compressor I use with my Everlast plasma cutter. I just need to get the fittings right that go to the compressor and the tank.
Same place right now!
How does it work for you? :) I'm thinking to make this as well for plasma cutting :)
Another Neverlast Spam trying to promote a shitty brand.
Can I use 1/2 copper to 3/8 air hose 1/4 npt? I’m currently shopping for the items to make the lines
Just bought a heat exchanger which will separate water off of eBay for 125.00. lot less work and time. Plus it's rated @ 360 psi
got a title or auction # I can search on ebay for that unit?
The one I bought isn't available, but the have different sizes. Here's the eBay auction number...171146484709
@@510BIGD thanks
@Womb Raider yup... working Great. Only way to go.
Looking at setting up a system myself but don't really get how this works as soon as the lines get cold from use they would cool causing more moisture and especially the copper.
Now if the copper was heated that would be different but guess your relying on gravity - which does work but only for short periods if using sandblaster for example at 90-100psi it would fail quick / same with painting.
The colder the copper pipes get the better they will be for sucking moisture out of the air ...
I think you used waaay to much PTFE. But it turned out nice!
I'm surprised he's didn't crack any brass with so much tape sealer
Shouldn’t the cooling coil be in between the pump and the tank? Not off tank to keep the moisture out of the tank.
Yes 👍 It is easier to buy a universal vehicle transmission cooler and mount exactly where you state in between the pump and receiver and minimise water getting in the receiver tank in the first place. Only 1 drop leg is then advised coming off the receiver connected with a short 1/2” hose wip 👌
Buy a freakin’ tripod! Might be the greatest build ever, but I couldn’t finish watching it...
Do you own stock in the valve company. Just rotate it 90 degrees and make sure there is a slight incline to each pipe and it will all run down to one valve. I know you put in a lot of work but what a mess of pipe and valves that is so unnecessary. Use gravity to you advantage.
You're missing the point. Each run should be vertical as water does not like travelling uphill. By turning the assembly 90 degrees you'd be encouraging the water to travel towards the exit.
I did this, and I don't like it. I'm actually here looking at other designs, and will probably turn mine sideways and add more valves like this.
I made mine with 1 valve, and ensured that every section was downhill. About 40 ft of 3/4" copper. The problem is that the water still follows the dryer air nearly to the end with no place to escape. It's best to remove the water as soon as possible from the air path running over the top of a river the entire way.
Why condensate most of the moisture in the first 5 ft of pipe to simply have it drain all along the pathway of the cooling air? It's best to remove it quickly and allow the air a chance to condensate further down, in each section, and repeat a few times. The condensate is also hotter than the pipe, so you lose thermal efficiency by cooling the water instead of the air, and having waterfalls every 5 ft for the air to pass through.
Yup. All the best designs have several valves. Going cheap might look neat, but you lose efficiency, and copper is expensive wall art.
U SAY cross tube are how long
Dozens of TH-camrs have discovered that copper is easy to obtain and use to fabricate a heat exchanger at home. It seems like the perfect solution.
Heat air, cool it, and what do you get? Condensation. But in this case the condensation is occurring inside copper tube, resulting in airborne copper and copper oxides. Those contaminants carry on in suspension to ruin your filters, dryers, and aluminum air tools through dissimilar metal corrosion. The only choice for those who have invested their time money and effort in a copper tubing heat exchanger, is now to crank up their tool oilers to maximum flow and hope for the best. There is no problem with copper in an air compressor system as long as it's not used where there is 1) moisture condensing and/or 2) no aluminum downstream.
Let us know how your expensive aluminum air tools are doing in 5 years.
I tend to follow manufacturers advice when it comes things I don't know. These people seem to offer sound advice: www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/our-blog/bid/94802/what-type-of-pipe-should-i-use-for-my-air-compressor
I used copper with a filter-dryer between between compressor and air-receiver tank. The outlet from the receiver has a further filter/dryer stage before use. It will last longer than me!
What design of filter/dryer do you have immediately downstream of the compressor? I'm still trying to sort out a system for myself.
Run the output from the compressor through 10 yds of 3/8 copper tube in a serpentine flat shape in front of the fan. This will get the air cool enough to feed directly into an off-the-shelf filter/water-trap with a polycarbonate bowl. Feed the output from the bowl into the receiver tank. When the compressor pump shuts off and the relief-valve opens between the pump and the filter, all the condensation in the line will be blown out through the auto-drain in the filter-bowl.
Nice find that and very informative
Every single belt driven oil filled air compressor uses a copper discharge pipe after the compressor head. Copper is used because it cools the air slightly before entering the tank. Which according to you creates copper oxides. So, you will have copper oxides in ANY oil filled belt driven compressor tank and air system, copper, aluminum, or PVC. Try to find any evidence of aluminum air line (Transair, RapidAir Fast Pipe, Infinity, etc.) being ruined by copper. You won't find it.
Great project, but next time take the camera off of your head please. Makes me dizzy!
What size copper do you use buddy?
15MM
@@RyanBurischits look like 1/2 inch but they work great nothing issue?
The wihow far a part are your tubes 4 inches
yes, about 4 inches will do
camera moving way to much
Meter is how long
About 3 Feet. Unless you have tiny feet, then it's 9 Feet.
@@michor10 1000mm
ask a communist.
Please get a tripod, 1 minute in and stopped it.
If you are going to record using a head mounted camera please have your parts in one location. You are moving around too much and annoying to watch..
For Pete"s sake, use a tripod!
@@benb6693 Pete gets really dizzy, so getting a tripod would really help Pete out
Overkill and costly.
Way over complicated
I started to get dizzy from camera gyrations had to stop watching. in all my professional years of installing copper in new homes I never have saw anyone take compressed air to cool joints. A really uninformed novice trying to share 3rd world ideas.
itsnowornever4 If you don't like it then don't fucking watch it. Your such a little bitch
I just saw him make 16 rounds of tape on a fitting. Very unprofessional. Always 3-4 wraps only.
...just one wrap !
no. 16 wraps is what the pros do, exactly 16 wraps. that or nothing
itsnowornever4 My thoughts exactly. Three, maybe four wraps (if you're feeling insecure), is plenty.
he was going from 3/8" to 1/2".