Groundskeeper here, serrated knives are the best pocket knives I’ve found for impromptu brush / tree cutting tasks. I really think giving a serrated knife is worth having in one’s EDC collection.
Now Im not sure if this applies, but may be similar to how garbage bags hold more garbage if you incessantly swing them up and down, filling them with air, while making obnoxious amounts of noise.
My favorite blades have all had one thing in common...Half-serration. It is priceless. The smooth point and first half is great for any normal knife work, and the serration is perfect for sawing cardboard, harder cuts with less pressure, and the points of the teeth can sometimes be used for what the point would be used for (and you have a ton of fresh points when needed), without dulling the actual point (because a duller saw tooth is not going to affect anything in everyday use). I have heard a lot of hate for half-serrated blades, but they are amazing. It should be noted that I dont carry $400 blades that I have to worry about sharpening and keeping perfect. That said (topic tangent), if you carry a knife for self-defense, grab a good fixed blade for JUST that, then use your cheaper flippers for daily work. My brutally used (army, camping, industrial maintenance at civilian job) Gerber 800 Legend still has a razor sharp serration and the straight edge has only been sharpened a couple times in it's nearly 20 years.
I agree. It's a shame that the "knife bros" are so biased against partially serrated edges. When I worked on a farm, I always carried a partially serrated knife. A plain edge just sucks when dealing with a wad of dirty/gritty twine. I have to assume that the guys who hate serrations have either an office job or they just don't do much dirty work.
If I have serrations on a knife I really like having partial serrations. I feel like it gives you the advantages of a plain edge while still giving you the option to easily cut through rope. I really like partial serrations on my outdoors and “tactical” knives. On my Microtechs I like the d/e with the top edge being serrated and the bottom being plain. I also really like how benchmade leaves “puppy teeth” on their plain edges, which gives you a little bit more traction when trying to get through a rope
I feel like it’s the worst of both worlds - you give up half the cutting edge blade and there’s not enough serration pattern there to do much sawing/serrating.🤷♂️
@@gi_nattakding ding ding, we have a winner! Exactly. Unless you're cutting rope that's 1/8th inch thick, a partial serration is just going to be a hindrance.
On the question about opening and closing or unsheathing and sheathing the knife. Like any tool, it is good to verify it works before going into battle...or work...or play. It's good to verify that it is functioning as intended before arriving at your destination. Also, it's fun.
I'm a knife maker and I keep hearing "I can keep my knife sharp, I don't need serrations". lol. So I did a test with some very high end steels and very good edge geometrys for slicing VS serrations. And I found that serrations worked very well in certain situations. In fact they out performed a scary straight edge. Like it was said in the video, rope cuts and particularly cutting things like seat belts, serrations smoked the regular edge. Just my .02
@@Nudel-nc1cp Serrated edges are useful for people who do real work. For instance, plain edges suck at cutting through a wad of dirty, gritty twine. It's a shame that most "knife bros" are office workers who think cutting cardboard boxes is "hard use".
I’d love to listen to you talk about coatings… I have a few knives that have cerakote and I haven’t been impressed… I have a BM 940 where the anodizing has held up great… much better than my experience with cerakote. Then you have the treatment of parkarizing on a BM clip which holds up amazing. I think metal treatments and coatings would be a great full episode discussion
I have a Spyderco Native 5 with their smooth black coating (can't remember actual name) and it has been amazing! Super tough and hard and hasn't chipped or rubbed off at all. I am pretty hard on this knife too!
Benchmade puts a nice finish on their clips now. It used to be crap, it was no more than a mediocre to decent quality spray paint. Spyderco seems to use a pretty good finish too.
@@Arman-jx7hu Ah, another Native 5 fan. Pleasure... Spyderco's coating is referred to as a "DLC" coating (Diamond Like Carbon coating). It's similar to a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating in that the coating is actually the surface layer of a metal that's been molecularly bonded to another substance instead of something like cerakote, which is a more traditional coating that can chip away. DLC coatings are something else. As the name suggests, the carbon that's bonded to the surface is formed in a way to the structure of diamonds, so it's incredibly hard stuff on a molecular level. It can wear over time, but it's definitely not something that's going to be chipping off. I've had my Manix 2 for roughly two years now. I carry and use it for weeks at a time, and aside from a few light snail trails and hair thin scratches, the coating has held up incredibly. I actually kind of like the wear on it, too. It doesn't look chipped and ugly like a cheaper powder coating would.
My preference to actual serrations is a toothy edge in a steel with high carbide content (preferably vanadium) - like Benchmade’s S90v with a factory edge... certainly not for everyone, but it’s a route worth trying if you dislike serrations. I’ve found 154cm is a excellent budget alternative.
They are great. If you know how and when to use them. I like them. My edc has serrations combo this time of year. Cut a lot of low hanging limbs and brush with it when I’m mowing so I don’t get poked in the face. Plain blade takes longer.
When I got a problem with falling asleep, I just fire up a KC video with DCA talking about the knives and I'm gone in 60 seconds.... Thank You for the knowledge and for the way to fall asleep
I need a new beater knife, Sunday (5/15/2022) I drove 1.5 hours to my sons house to fix the water well. I had to use my older version Kershaw Vapor as a chisel to dig out broke PVC pipe threads in a water tank. I ended up breaking my Vapor thanks to a hammer. I am glad I did not have one of my better quality knives with me or I would have felt bad about hammering on the knife. DCA, What Knife would you EDC Knowing there was a possibility you were going to hammer it to death? P.S. thank you for your devotion to the knife industry.
I went to a Spyderco serrated Endura many years ago because I cut tons of hemp rope from 1" to 2" on the job. I carried a Buck 110 for many years but it would be dull quickly. The Spyderco serrated Endura held up for days before I needed to sharpen. 30 years ago there wasn't many choices in knives.
The german Company Güde (Franz Güde son of the Founder of Güde Knnives) inventet the Wellenschliff (Wafegrind) especialy for Bread. Wellenschliff is a form of seration and as far as I know it was the first serration developed for Blades (1931). This special serration should help to cut the Bread without pressing it while cutting. Serrations do not only have a Advantage when cutting Ropes but also when cutting soft Materials without much pressure. Another situation where serations have an advantage is when you have to cut deep through several layers of closing. A polished edge can glide over the material without getting a "gripp". Sharks use serated teath to cut ther prey. PS: sorry for my bad english
Hey David, I've decided your idea of a Victorinox with serrations at the tip of the blade on the One-Handed Trekker is a great idea. Do they make suck a knife with: One hand opener, saw, scissors, phillips and screwdriver? Other instruments like bottle/can opener and awl would be nice, but the saw, scissors, and one-hand opener are must-haves. By the way, I live in the desert West, and when my hands are really dry, my wooden-handled Conspirator also slips very easy in my hands. I'm going to put in some hand checkering with a very fine saw blade.
Thinning the edge (or removing some of the "shoulder" as it was called here) can actually increase longevity because the amount of metal removed at each subsequent sharpening is less. It also reduces the time for honing and restoring performance.
My EDC was 1/2 serrated 1/2 plane edge for a really long time. I’ve been carrying a large folder for cutting nylon off big round hay bales, but I still miss that serrated portion. Works so much better cutting rope, plastics, etc.
I generally prefer a plain edge, but for certain jobs I want serrations. As a Hydro Operator doing high voltage switching and LockOut TagOut, I cut a lot of tie wraps (retired after 45+ years). Serrations work. In rescue work, everyone knows serrations are great for cutting nylon webbing and rope. They are also great for going through stranded copper wire. My EDC knives all have plain edges, but my EDC includes a Leatherman WAVE with a serrated blade.
DCA, it's gardening season once again! Let's talk pruning knives across all the budgets! Let's go with pruning everything from garden veggies to flowers and small branches. There's definitely acidic plants to worry about (corrosion resistance), ease of opening and closing one handed and ease of cleaning are a few factors that come to mind. Would be used heavily all around the garden, so cutting rope, twine, the works and getting real dirty. Microtech OTF with double sided blade and serration in Elmax comes to mind, but pain in the butt to send off to have it opened up and cleaned when it gets really dirty. What other options can you think of? Both fixed and folding options are appreciated (but having 2 bouncing puppies make fixed a little less safe for the next year or two!)
Love this question! I think it's a good one for KAQ. My personal go-to in the garden has been a Mora 510 (wish they made a 511 with lefty sheath). But this year I'm using my new Spyderco UKPK Salt. It's bright yellow for high contrast if it falls in the dirt, LC200N, ambi, and one hand opening/closing. Super easy to clean. I think that the Magnacut Native 5 Salt coming out later this year might be a good option too. But if I'm doing any amount of pruning I will usually reach for pruning shears just to reduce plant disease potential
The release of the Boker daily Ak1 is exciting. I love the size, shape, and the pocket sheath. Now I wonder DCA why aren’t there more edc pocket fixed blades on the market?
My uncle has been a white water rafting instructor for 26 years. For ten years he’s had a Byrd Cara Cara Rescue 2 (Spyderco) with full serrations, a $37 knife. He’s never had to sharpen it because serrations have so much cutting power and they takes years and years before they need to be sharpened and by that point you would have got a new knife anyway. If you want a knife that’s just going to work/cut every time get a serrated knife.
Serrations are awesome. I used to not think this way until I used an Endura fully serrated to cut through drywall. Piece of cake. The Spyderco H-1 is 67 on the Rockwell scale after it's serrated. It's some black magic sorcery. I carry a Byrd Cara Cara a lot with half serrations and it's a really great knife for the money. I also dig the new Byrd Wharncliffe fully serrated. My wife had a Dragonfly fully serrated and I had to touch it up once in ten years. She uses it all the time.
I'm surprised you didn't address "effective edge length" on a serrated blade. Every one of those little scallops adds up to a significantly longer total edge if you were to measure the distance along the curves. A fully serrated knife can have an effective edge of double or even triple the length of the blade itself.
I like a half serrated blade. But only rarely. For example my brother hated his gerber 06 auto and gave it to me. Took it down and cleaned and oiled it up nice, which was extremely hard. However it’s a tough knife and to me it fits. And it’s extremely usable.
Hi David, in a teapot, bring the water to a simmer. Pour the hot water into a mug. Add small shot of whiskey, 2 teaspoons of honey and 2 teaspoons of lemon juice. Stir until the honey has disappeared and drink while it's hot. Thank me later 😅
DCA, is blade play something to be concerned about? How much is too much, & does it depend on the type of locking mechanism? I somewhat obsess over blade play, but should I be worrying about it?
To max the maker - How about a Swiss Army Farmer X? The red Alox version Knifecenter carries is great. This way you've still got another blade under 3 inches (the blade itself is 2.75) but that way you've also got: Scissors, saw, bottle opener, can opener, awl, and screwdriver (which can also work on many phillips-head screws.)
The only thing I use a serrated edge for is cutting bread. But if I ever buy a long ship and need to cut a lot of sisal rope to manage my sails and rigging, I'll give it a bit more consideration.
Hey Dave, a question for ya. Is there an easy reliable way to work out the angle of a factory edge? I have seen those circular gauges, do they work? I know some knife makers advertise this but it is not always readily apparent. Keep up the great work, luv this channel.
Thank you for great videos. This is more of a rant than a question, but anyway, here it goes: I don't get thumb studs in folders, and especially in short blades. More often than not, once the blade is deployed, the thumb studs gets in the way of both sharpening and slicing. Am I the only one that views this as a problem? I personally prefer flippers or a thumb hole, where Spyderco seems to be the most consistent manufacturer. I have a Kershaw Shuffle which IMO illustrates this well, but even on my Civivi Badlands Vagabond (which is a great EDC in most ways), that thumb stud sometimes get in the way. Thoughts?
Agree! I wish more knives used a “disk” in the spine like my Benchmade CQC 7. Very positive opening but out of the way for sharpening and most slicing.
I guess i do it the hard way - i used one of those pocket diamond sharpeners that has the hook sharpener - can flip it around and use the small curved part to sharpen the serrated part without grinding the points down and then just sharpen the rest of the edge with traditional sharpening
Hey DCA...what would you recommend for carry during mountain biking? Intermediate (blue) trails, so I'm doing nothing crazy. Neck knife (what I've been using)? Serrated for when cutting back trail overgrowth? Perhaps something to attach to a Camelbak? I'd prefer quick access for personal defense considerations. Thanks!!!
Question: I've been EDC-ing the carcass splitter and have been getting some odd looks when I use it day-to-day. I think I need a smaller, more subtle knife to hand people and use in more public situations etc. Any recommendations? Thanks!
Meh, carry what you feel like, screw em. How big is your carcass splitter? I also carry a belt knife, and find 5-6" is about maximum without too many weird looks. But I carry a pair normally my kabar and one of several pocket fixies. If you want something cheaper and lower profile, Crkt has plenty of little fixed blades.
Sounds like a great EDC sword to me. I carry two sometimes three fixed blade knives on my a day. All I would say is ignore the annoying city people. Don't give into such stupid people. I've really been thinking about Carring a Gladius around.
First off KC crew I love what you do. My question is what knife would y'all say is similar to the Sebenza with the Insingo blade? I use the Gerber fastball right now, but I'm just a thumbstuds guy. I work with a lot of corrugated material so the sheepsfoot/wharncliffe blade is a must.
Hey DCA! Thanks for the content. I like to carry thin bladed pocket knives from time to time. I have a Civivi Lumi and a Spyderco Ladybug in K390, but I have not been able to find many knives in the 3 to 3.5 inch blade range with a blade thickness of less than .125". It must be a locking blade and my price range is $40-$150.
Check out the Hogue Deka, specifically the one in 20CV with a Wharnecliff Blade. It's VERY thin and last I remember only like $130. AMAZING edge on them too. Might be a bit long, closer to 3.5-4 inches.
Great content DCA. Any tips for maintaining blade center on folding knives? Sometimes when I attempt to center a blade I end up with a tight pivot and slow opening knife.
Love these videos KC. Question: wikipedia says that G10 is flammable and can "burn violently". Do you think this is a real concern in, say, camping or cooking or rescue scenarios?
Hi: I like to build survival kits or Bugout bags for people that don’t know what they are doing. This also places their trust in me to build them a bag or kit with gear that is not the basic cheap garbage you often see in prebuilt kits. On my larger Kits I sometimes add in a scissors, often in the form of a paramedic shears. What other options are out there in varying price ranges (about $10, $25, $50 ranges) and at what sizes? Side note: The smaller ones are often better in a kit that is over stuffed and bulging.
Hey DCA, I'm looking for a second knife to accompany my folding razor blade for construction use. Preferably a manual flipper under $100 with thumb studs and pivot washers.
The QSP Penguin was my first "good" knife I started carrying at work (remodeling). Inexpensive (40 something $) and the blade shape is utilitarian. I have many other ( more expensive) knives now and it's still one of my most carried for work EDC
Hi DCA and team, thanks for all the content! Wonderful work. I have a general question about cultural and country-specific influences and styles. U mention Italian knives (crown spines, etc.), Japanese inspired x, y, or z, and American this or that. I’m sure styles, types, name your category, all blend together to a degree but are their holistic distinctions these days between the designers and knife makers from various countries?
Spyderco serrations are the joint if you are in need of serrations. I have a Spyderco SS Police model, fully serrated lock back that I bought 27 years ago, on my 18th birthday. I have sent it back to Spyderco like 3 times to have it sharpened, reground, reground...all for free. The tallness of the blade is like 30% less than original because of the serrations having to be reground twice. I have used the shit out of that knife. Now, I am more a PM2 guy, but I am kinda about to get a fully serrated Pacific Salt......... AND, a KC exclusive, Olive Drab Alox Victorinox Huntsman when you guys get around to sourcing that....please.
I've recently picked up my first framelock flipper, a ZT 0462. Fantastic knife, although I find I more careful with heavier cuts. Because when I grip it tight as I push through the material the frame lock can get jammed in a lot deeper than intended and sometimes hard to disengage. Do all framelocks have similar issues, is this particular examples just flimsy, or am I being too hard on it.
Hello DCA! I need help. I recently lost my Kershaw Vapor which has been my go to edc for nearly 20 years. I have a Tupperware container full of knives from Buck, Cold Steel, Spyderco, and other brands, but none of them feel and care like that Vapor. So what would you recommend as a possible replacement up $125 in price, 3 inch narrow blade height. Bonus points for USA made and an easy to sharpen steel (read as no D2).
My son bought me a knife for Father’s Day which I’ve used primarily for cutting cardboard. The blade dulled quickly. What is the best way to sharpen my knife?
Large-handled small-bladed folder? I have larger than average hands, and really like a full handle, but there are times when I want or need a smaller blade, ~2.5” (e.g. for precision work, or to avoid concerns in crowded public areas, or where limited by law such as Boston). I prefer great materials, but understand my choices may be limited. I just want a medium/small blade with a great full grip in a pocket portable package. Any recommendations?
Hey DCA, do you know of any knives that are similar to the Pena Trapper X Series that are within the $50 to $150 range? I like the way the lock is positioned under the scales but still keeps the frame lock vibe. I also like how the knife keeps the traditional trapper style while also having a pocket clip. PS. How is the move going/ how has it gone?
Hey DCA, got a question for you and would appreciate input. I’m a butcher/meat cutter by trade as well as an avid outdoorsman. Because my line of work I tend to use a 5-6” boning knife for a lot of small tasks, so here is my question is there something similar in a smaller carry friendly version of a boning style knife that can be used for outdoors tasks and food prep at camp that can be sharpened or maintained easily. Preferably not the outdoor edge option. Any options or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I have a stone knife blade on my KC exclusive Sig K320, and stone washed titanium scales on my Spyderco Para 3, and I noticed they are both super smooth to the touch. Is this a natural result or is there something extra done to stonewashes to give them that smooth feel?
Hey DCA ! I got my hand on a crk umnumzaan and use it as my working knife on the fishing vessel I’m working on what angel would you go with to get the longest performance? I doesn’t have time to field sharp my knive on sea
How about the Al Mar SEAR Knife ?3.6" D2 Satin Talon Drop Point, Dragon Hyde black FRN handles and with a gold logo inlay you won't have any trouble finding one....it will come looking for you.
Hey DCA! Many years ago, I had a titanium Benchmade knife that was heat treated to bring out a natural rainbow pattern. It's been so long I don't remember what model it was, but do you have any recommendations for a similar knife?
Serrations are incontrovertibly better for fresh bread and materials of similar texture. I usually use a serrated edge to cut large pieces of low density urethane foam etc. Other that that, an understanding of how not to use a knife like it's a saw or some other tool will handle most other issues. If you really need something that will withstand abuse and don't ever need a fine cut, or you just suck at sharpening, serrations are also probably the way to go. With experience in both use and sharpening, one will usually find fewer and fewer uses for serrations and "toothy" edges.
if you have a task that has to do with rope, some kind of twine or line, then I can understand why you might choose serrations. Other than that, they aren't worth time - because a serrated knife will bind in other materials at the absolute worst time.
I despise serrated blades, especially partially serrated with the serrations at the base. You can't whittle or strip electric wire with a blade like that. As for cutting heavy rope, there's not much call to cut hawser in central Kansas.
Hey there DCA, when it comes to knives many will usually become synonymous with certain categories like tactical/bush craft/gentleman/ECT.... But which ones out there that you know of defy all categories and can't truly be explained? Also you can't choose the Boker Magnum Mermaid lol
Groundskeeper here, serrated knives are the best pocket knives I’ve found for impromptu brush / tree cutting tasks. I really think giving a serrated knife is worth having in one’s EDC collection.
I definitely agree
So you use them like a saw?
What blade shape do you think works best with the serrations?
I’d like to a fully separated recurve blade design from Microtech!
@@TClayH Spyderco Endura
Tongs don't work right unless you click them a couple of times right out of the drawer. I thought everyone knew this! 😅
Very true, this also applies to scissors and click pens.
Underrated comment 🥇🤘🏻
Now Im not sure if this applies, but may be similar to how garbage bags hold more garbage if you incessantly swing them up and down, filling them with air, while making obnoxious amounts of noise.
It's true
Actually in many places, you LEGALLY have to do a crab/lobster impression every time you take out your tongs precisely for this reason.
My favorite blades have all had one thing in common...Half-serration. It is priceless. The smooth point and first half is great for any normal knife work, and the serration is perfect for sawing cardboard, harder cuts with less pressure, and the points of the teeth can sometimes be used for what the point would be used for (and you have a ton of fresh points when needed), without dulling the actual point (because a duller saw tooth is not going to affect anything in everyday use). I have heard a lot of hate for half-serrated blades, but they are amazing. It should be noted that I dont carry $400 blades that I have to worry about sharpening and keeping perfect. That said (topic tangent), if you carry a knife for self-defense, grab a good fixed blade for JUST that, then use your cheaper flippers for daily work.
My brutally used (army, camping, industrial maintenance at civilian job) Gerber 800 Legend still has a razor sharp serration and the straight edge has only been sharpened a couple times in it's nearly 20 years.
I agree. It's a shame that the "knife bros" are so biased against partially serrated edges. When I worked on a farm, I always carried a partially serrated knife. A plain edge just sucks when dealing with a wad of dirty/gritty twine. I have to assume that the guys who hate serrations have either an office job or they just don't do much dirty work.
Thanks DCA and team for another super Video! Wish you fast recovery David. Greetings from Austria of course
If I have serrations on a knife I really like having partial serrations. I feel like it gives you the advantages of a plain edge while still giving you the option to easily cut through rope. I really like partial serrations on my outdoors and “tactical” knives. On my Microtechs I like the d/e with the top edge being serrated and the bottom being plain. I also really like how benchmade leaves “puppy teeth” on their plain edges, which gives you a little bit more traction when trying to get through a rope
For me, nothing beats a knife with partial serrations, it’s the best of both worlds.
I feel like it’s the worst of both worlds - you give up half the cutting edge blade and there’s not enough serration pattern there to do much sawing/serrating.🤷♂️
@@gi_nattakding ding ding, we have a winner!
Exactly. Unless you're cutting rope that's 1/8th inch thick, a partial serration is just going to be a hindrance.
I say go all or nothing. Go full serrations or go full plain edge. None of this in-between bull crap!
On the question about opening and closing or unsheathing and sheathing the knife. Like any tool, it is good to verify it works before going into battle...or work...or play. It's good to verify that it is functioning as intended before arriving at your destination. Also, it's fun.
Folks used'ta tell me I was playing with my knife...no I was practicing....even if I WAS playing with it
Slippery??? Add a bit of skateboard type tape
I'm a knife maker and I keep hearing "I can keep my knife sharp, I don't need serrations". lol. So I did a test with some very high end steels and very good edge geometrys for slicing VS serrations. And I found that serrations worked very well in certain situations. In fact they out performed a scary straight edge. Like it was said in the video, rope cuts and particularly cutting things like seat belts, serrations smoked the regular edge. Just my .02
nothing I use my knife day to day for requires that second advantage, but a lot of what I do requires a clean, neat cut. I prefer plain edge
@@charlesissleepy That's why the partially serrated edge was created. People need the serrations only some of the time.
@@BornIn1500 Well... Serrated edges are as useful and commonly used, as glassbreaker tips. Like one time per decade? :]
@@Nudel-nc1cp Serrated edges are useful for people who do real work. For instance, plain edges suck at cutting through a wad of dirty, gritty twine. It's a shame that most "knife bros" are office workers who think cutting cardboard boxes is "hard use".
I’d love to listen to you talk about coatings… I have a few knives that have cerakote and I haven’t been impressed… I have a BM 940 where the anodizing has held up great… much better than my experience with cerakote. Then you have the treatment of parkarizing on a BM clip which holds up amazing. I think metal treatments and coatings would be a great full episode discussion
This ⬆️
They had episode about that .
I have a Spyderco Native 5 with their smooth black coating (can't remember actual name) and it has been amazing! Super tough and hard and hasn't chipped or rubbed off at all. I am pretty hard on this knife too!
Benchmade puts a nice finish on their clips now. It used to be crap, it was no more than a mediocre to decent quality spray paint. Spyderco seems to use a pretty good finish too.
@@Arman-jx7hu Ah, another Native 5 fan. Pleasure...
Spyderco's coating is referred to as a "DLC" coating (Diamond Like Carbon coating). It's similar to a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating in that the coating is actually the surface layer of a metal that's been molecularly bonded to another substance instead of something like cerakote, which is a more traditional coating that can chip away.
DLC coatings are something else. As the name suggests, the carbon that's bonded to the surface is formed in a way to the structure of diamonds, so it's incredibly hard stuff on a molecular level. It can wear over time, but it's definitely not something that's going to be chipping off.
I've had my Manix 2 for roughly two years now. I carry and use it for weeks at a time, and aside from a few light snail trails and hair thin scratches, the coating has held up incredibly. I actually kind of like the wear on it, too. It doesn't look chipped and ugly like a cheaper powder coating would.
Black tipped arrow! This fantasy nerd is definitely with you. Thanks for the shout-out, David!
My preference to actual serrations is a toothy edge in a steel with high carbide content (preferably vanadium) - like Benchmade’s S90v with a factory edge... certainly not for everyone, but it’s a route worth trying if you dislike serrations. I’ve found 154cm is a excellent budget alternative.
I've heard a lot of good things about 154CM from a lot of people that really know knives.
Must admit, I _did not expect_ DCA to *pull out a saber.* Very nice 👌
They are great. If you know how and when to use them. I like them. My edc has serrations combo this time of year. Cut a lot of low hanging limbs and brush with it when I’m mowing so I don’t get poked in the face. Plain blade takes longer.
I'd love to see you talk about the best grinds and steels for whittling and woodworking, as well as info on Rockwell hardness.
How is it possible there are so many absolute nerds in this one hobby? Lord!
Thank you for explaining this. I hear so many incorrect descriptions on the "knife expert" channels.
When I got a problem with falling asleep, I just fire up a KC video with DCA talking about the knives and I'm gone in 60 seconds.... Thank You for the knowledge and for the way to fall asleep
I need a new beater knife, Sunday (5/15/2022) I drove 1.5 hours to my sons house to fix the water well. I had to use my older version Kershaw Vapor as a chisel to dig out broke PVC pipe threads in a water tank. I ended up breaking my Vapor thanks to a hammer. I am glad I did not have one of my better quality knives with me or I would have felt bad about hammering on the knife. DCA, What Knife would you EDC Knowing there was a possibility you were going to hammer it to death? P.S. thank you for your devotion to the knife industry.
I'm with you on Bard's Arrow!
I went to a Spyderco serrated Endura many years ago because I cut tons of hemp rope from 1" to 2" on the job. I carried a Buck 110 for many years but it would be dull quickly. The Spyderco serrated Endura held up for days before I needed to sharpen. 30 years ago there wasn't many choices in knives.
The german Company Güde (Franz Güde son of the Founder of Güde Knnives) inventet the Wellenschliff (Wafegrind) especialy for Bread. Wellenschliff is a form of seration and as far as I know it was the first serration developed for Blades (1931). This special serration should help to cut the Bread without pressing it while cutting. Serrations do not only have a Advantage when cutting Ropes but also when cutting soft Materials without much pressure. Another situation where serations have an advantage is when you have to cut deep through several layers of closing. A polished edge can glide over the material without getting a "gripp". Sharks use serated teath to cut ther prey. PS: sorry for my bad english
Ya know what, keep doing what you are doing, none better out there, I always share video with my knife group on Facebook
Hey David, I've decided your idea of a Victorinox with serrations at the tip of the blade on the One-Handed Trekker is a great idea. Do they make suck a knife with: One hand opener, saw, scissors, phillips and screwdriver? Other instruments like bottle/can opener and awl would be nice, but the saw, scissors, and one-hand opener are must-haves. By the way, I live in the desert West, and when my hands are really dry, my wooden-handled Conspirator also slips very easy in my hands. I'm going to put in some hand checkering with a very fine saw blade.
Thinning the edge (or removing some of the "shoulder" as it was called here) can actually increase longevity because the amount of metal removed at each subsequent sharpening is less. It also reduces the time for honing and restoring performance.
I carry a Spyderco serrated. It doesn’t dull out as fast when I’m out and use it as a steak knife. Points hit the plate before the edge
Black tipped arrow, that one made my laugh out loud. Excellent videos
The way you chose your words in the serration response makes me think you've studied what makes effective communication. Well spoke!
My EDC was 1/2 serrated 1/2 plane edge for a really long time. I’ve been carrying a large folder for cutting nylon off big round hay bales, but I still miss that serrated portion. Works so much better cutting rope, plastics, etc.
Nice answer to the most serious question. Boker Joule looks great btw. I always think that serrated edges are light saws.
The answer to "complimentary blade" is always Victorinox. Always :)
That's what I do :) -DCA
Try Thompson's water seal on the wooden handle, after cleaning with soap lather as from a shaving brush and drying out before the water seal.
I generally prefer a plain edge, but for certain jobs I want serrations. As a Hydro Operator doing high voltage switching and LockOut TagOut, I cut a lot of tie wraps (retired after 45+ years). Serrations work. In rescue work, everyone knows serrations are great for cutting nylon webbing and rope. They are also great for going through stranded copper wire. My EDC knives all have plain edges, but my EDC includes a Leatherman WAVE with a serrated blade.
DCA, it's gardening season once again! Let's talk pruning knives across all the budgets! Let's go with pruning everything from garden veggies to flowers and small branches. There's definitely acidic plants to worry about (corrosion resistance), ease of opening and closing one handed and ease of cleaning are a few factors that come to mind. Would be used heavily all around the garden, so cutting rope, twine, the works and getting real dirty.
Microtech OTF with double sided blade and serration in Elmax comes to mind, but pain in the butt to send off to have it opened up and cleaned when it gets really dirty. What other options can you think of? Both fixed and folding options are appreciated (but having 2 bouncing puppies make fixed a little less safe for the next year or two!)
Opinel makes some good pruning knives and if something happens to it they arent too expensive to replace
@@kydd666 Appreciate the input. Personally not a fan of Opinel, and they don't fit my criteria of ease of opening and closing one handed.
Love this question! I think it's a good one for KAQ. My personal go-to in the garden has been a Mora 510 (wish they made a 511 with lefty sheath). But this year I'm using my new Spyderco UKPK Salt. It's bright yellow for high contrast if it falls in the dirt, LC200N, ambi, and one hand opening/closing. Super easy to clean. I think that the Magnacut Native 5 Salt coming out later this year might be a good option too. But if I'm doing any amount of pruning I will usually reach for pruning shears just to reduce plant disease potential
The release of the Boker daily Ak1 is exciting. I love the size, shape, and the pocket sheath. Now I wonder DCA why aren’t there more edc pocket fixed blades on the market?
My uncle has been a white water rafting instructor for 26 years. For ten years he’s had a Byrd Cara Cara Rescue 2 (Spyderco) with full serrations, a $37 knife. He’s never had to sharpen it because serrations have so much cutting power and they takes years and years before they need to be sharpened and by that point you would have got a new knife anyway. If you want a knife that’s just going to work/cut every time get a serrated knife.
Thanks for sharing
Serrations are awesome. I used to not think this way until I used an Endura fully serrated to cut through drywall. Piece of cake. The Spyderco H-1 is 67 on the Rockwell scale after it's serrated. It's some black magic sorcery. I carry a Byrd Cara Cara a lot with half serrations and it's a really great knife for the money. I also dig the new Byrd Wharncliffe fully serrated. My wife had a Dragonfly fully serrated and I had to touch it up once in ten years. She uses it all the time.
I'm surprised you didn't address "effective edge length" on a serrated blade. Every one of those little scallops adds up to a significantly longer total edge if you were to measure the distance along the curves. A fully serrated knife can have an effective edge of double or even triple the length of the blade itself.
Good point
Triple or quadruple
I've talked about it in the past. Didn't think it was as germane to the question at hand, but point well made sir -DCA
I like a half serrated blade. But only rarely. For example my brother hated his gerber 06 auto and gave it to me. Took it down and cleaned and oiled it up nice, which was extremely hard. However it’s a tough knife and to me it fits. And it’s extremely usable.
Hi David, in a teapot, bring the water to a simmer. Pour the hot water into a mug. Add small shot of whiskey, 2 teaspoons of honey and 2 teaspoons of lemon juice. Stir until the honey has disappeared and drink while it's hot. Thank me later 😅
My Hot Toddy recipe was Southern comfort and Sprite with honey and lemon, warmed obviously.
If you have to cut through trimmer line or thick rope, having serrations on part of the blade helps alot.
I can understand the comment about the grip issue. I have very rough hands and that makes gripping smother knives more of a pain.
Hey DCA. Love the show. What would you suggest for best blade steel for learning to sharpen knives for a beginner? Thanks for all the great content.
I like my Tuff Lite..both standard and serrated..full size and mini...
DCA, is blade play something to be concerned about? How much is too much, & does it depend on the type of locking mechanism? I somewhat obsess over blade play, but should I be worrying about it?
To max the maker - How about a Swiss Army Farmer X? The red Alox version Knifecenter carries is great. This way you've still got another blade under 3 inches (the blade itself is 2.75) but that way you've also got: Scissors, saw, bottle opener, can opener, awl, and screwdriver (which can also work on many phillips-head screws.)
The only thing I use a serrated edge for is cutting bread. But if I ever buy a long ship and need to cut a lot of sisal rope to manage my sails and rigging, I'll give it a bit more consideration.
Hey Dave, a question for ya.
Is there an easy reliable way to work out the angle of a factory edge?
I have seen those circular gauges, do they work?
I know some knife makers advertise this but it is not always readily apparent.
Keep up the great work, luv this channel.
Thank you for great videos. This is more of a rant than a question, but anyway, here it goes:
I don't get thumb studs in folders, and especially in short blades. More often than not, once the blade is deployed, the thumb studs gets in the way of both sharpening and slicing. Am I the only one that views this as a problem? I personally prefer flippers or a thumb hole, where Spyderco seems to be the most consistent manufacturer. I have a Kershaw Shuffle which IMO illustrates this well, but even on my Civivi Badlands Vagabond (which is a great EDC in most ways), that thumb stud sometimes get in the way. Thoughts?
Agree! I wish more knives used a “disk” in the spine like my Benchmade CQC 7. Very positive opening but out of the way for sharpening and most slicing.
I guess i do it the hard way - i used one of those pocket diamond sharpeners that has the hook sharpener - can flip it around and use the small curved part to sharpen the serrated part without grinding the points down and then just sharpen the rest of the edge with traditional sharpening
I carry both a plain Delica and a full serrated Delica ( both stainless steel ) every day.
Hey DCA...what would you recommend for carry during mountain biking? Intermediate (blue) trails, so I'm doing nothing crazy. Neck knife (what I've been using)? Serrated for when cutting back trail overgrowth? Perhaps something to attach to a Camelbak? I'd prefer quick access for personal defense considerations. Thanks!!!
Question: I've been EDC-ing the carcass splitter and have been getting some odd looks when I use it day-to-day. I think I need a smaller, more subtle knife to hand people and use in more public situations etc. Any recommendations? Thanks!
Meh, carry what you feel like, screw em. How big is your carcass splitter?
I also carry a belt knife, and find 5-6" is about maximum without too many weird looks. But I carry a pair normally my kabar and one of several pocket fixies.
If you want something cheaper and lower profile, Crkt has plenty of little fixed blades.
@@presidentmerkinmuffley6769 The Carcass Splitter is about a 30" long cleaver.
Sounds like a great EDC sword to me. I carry two sometimes three fixed blade knives on my a day. All I would say is ignore the annoying city people. Don't give into such stupid people.
I've really been thinking about Carring a Gladius around.
@@presidentmerkinmuffley6769 it may have been a tongue-in-cheek question, as the carcass splitter is an enormous and heavy thing.
😂
that Tolkien reference at the end was awesome
Hey David! I’m looking for a sub 4 inch multi blade knife with a plain edge and a serrated edge for on the go food prep… any recommendations?
First off KC crew I love what you do. My question is what knife would y'all say is similar to the Sebenza with the Insingo blade? I use the Gerber fastball right now, but I'm just a thumbstuds guy. I work with a lot of corrugated material so the sheepsfoot/wharncliffe blade is a must.
I had the Spyderco Watu for a bit and it was amazing, but being in manufacturing I like carrying American made knives.
You guys need to send that first one to the Dutch Bushcrafters! That is tailored made for them.
Great episode!!
Hey DCA! Thanks for the content. I like to carry thin bladed pocket knives from time to time. I have a Civivi Lumi and a Spyderco Ladybug in K390, but I have not been able to find many knives in the 3 to 3.5 inch blade range with a blade thickness of less than .125". It must be a locking blade and my price range is $40-$150.
Check out the Hogue Deka, specifically the one in 20CV with a Wharnecliff Blade. It's VERY thin and last I remember only like $130. AMAZING edge on them too. Might be a bit long, closer to 3.5-4 inches.
Great content DCA. Any tips for maintaining blade center on folding knives? Sometimes when I attempt to center a blade I end up with a tight pivot and slow opening knife.
At the shipyard, sometimes cutting a !" rope really fast is necessary. Serrations are da bomb.
Can you guys review Reiff Knives F4 and F6? Are they worth the price? Thank you for all you do!
Love these videos KC. Question: wikipedia says that G10 is flammable and can "burn violently". Do you think this is a real concern in, say, camping or cooking or rescue scenarios?
Hi: I like to build survival kits or Bugout bags for people that don’t know what they are doing. This also places their trust in me to build them a bag or kit with gear that is not the basic cheap garbage you often see in prebuilt kits. On my larger Kits I sometimes add in a scissors, often in the form of a paramedic shears. What other options are out there in varying price ranges (about $10, $25, $50 ranges) and at what sizes? Side note: The smaller ones are often better in a kit that is over stuffed and bulging.
dug the vid from a while back with big/small combos, got me thinking
do you have any "old" and "new" style combos y'all think pair nicely?
What are you opinions on the crkt homefront? I'm really fond of the ease of cleaning. Are there other knives with similar takedown features?
Hey DCA, I'm looking for a second knife to accompany my folding razor blade for construction use. Preferably a manual flipper under $100 with thumb studs and pivot washers.
The QSP Penguin was my first "good" knife I started carrying at work (remodeling). Inexpensive (40 something $) and the blade shape is utilitarian. I have many other ( more expensive) knives now and it's still one of my most carried for work EDC
Very serious question: which blade steel inflicts the most damage?
The sharper one🤷🏻♀️
Hi DCA and team, thanks for all the content! Wonderful work. I have a general question about cultural and country-specific influences and styles. U mention Italian knives (crown spines, etc.), Japanese inspired x, y, or z, and American this or that. I’m sure styles, types, name your category, all blend together to a degree but are their holistic distinctions these days between the designers and knife makers from various countries?
I'm with you on the black arrow reference
Opening and closing a knife when you pick it up is the equivalent to pulling the trigger on a drill or impact when you pick it up
Spyderco serrations are the joint if you are in need of serrations. I have a Spyderco SS Police model, fully serrated lock back that I bought 27 years ago, on my 18th birthday. I have sent it back to Spyderco like 3 times to have it sharpened, reground, reground...all for free. The tallness of the blade is like 30% less than original because of the serrations having to be reground twice. I have used the shit out of that knife. Now, I am more a PM2 guy, but I am kinda about to get a fully serrated Pacific Salt......... AND, a KC exclusive, Olive Drab Alox Victorinox Huntsman when you guys get around to sourcing that....please.
I got the benchmade bugout mini, how should I take care of it?
Great video guys!!!
Can you explain all the grinds? Thanks
For the dragon slaying knife, I would say you need a TOPS Storm Vector or Cold Steel 3V Gurkha Kukri
@@sticksnstonespatriot1728 Knife Center carries the Longclaw sword from Game of Thrones, which I feel is the only right answer.
I've recently picked up my first framelock flipper, a ZT 0462. Fantastic knife, although I find I more careful with heavier cuts. Because when I grip it tight as I push through the material the frame lock can get jammed in a lot deeper than intended and sometimes hard to disengage. Do all framelocks have similar issues, is this particular examples just flimsy, or am I being too hard on it.
Hello DCA! I need help. I recently lost my Kershaw Vapor which has been my go to edc for nearly 20 years. I have a Tupperware container full of knives from Buck, Cold Steel, Spyderco, and other brands, but none of them feel and care like that Vapor. So what would you recommend as a possible replacement up $125 in price, 3 inch narrow blade height. Bonus points for USA made and an easy to sharpen steel (read as no D2).
One day I wish DCA would showcase a knifes drop shut action. I know some people don’t care about that but many people do.
My son bought me a knife for Father’s Day which I’ve used primarily for cutting cardboard. The blade dulled quickly. What is the best way to sharpen my knife?
Big fan of the Spyderco Sharpmaker: kcoti.com/3h4Ldjt
Large-handled small-bladed folder?
I have larger than average hands, and really like a full handle, but there are times when I want or need a smaller blade, ~2.5” (e.g. for precision work, or to avoid concerns in crowded public areas, or where limited by law such as Boston). I prefer great materials, but understand my choices may be limited. I just want a medium/small blade with a great full grip in a pocket portable package. Any recommendations?
I like that little boker ... hadn't seen it yet
Hey DCA, what are your favorite fixed blades under 2oz?
Hey DCA, do you know of any knives that are similar to the Pena Trapper X Series that are within the $50 to $150 range? I like the way the lock is positioned under the scales but still keeps the frame lock vibe. I also like how the knife keeps the traditional trapper style while also having a pocket clip.
PS. How is the move going/ how has it gone?
Love a otf with a dagger and full serrated side , like my Dirac
After getting a Knife with a serrated blade I prefer them for an edc.
Hey DCA, got a question for you and would appreciate input. I’m a butcher/meat cutter by trade as well as an avid outdoorsman. Because my line of work I tend to use a 5-6” boning knife for a lot of small tasks, so here is my question is there something similar in a smaller carry friendly version of a boning style knife that can be used for outdoors tasks and food prep at camp that can be sharpened or maintained easily. Preferably not the outdoor edge option. Any options or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
With the hot weather arriving, what is a good lightweight primary carry knife with an inconspicuous clip
I have a stone knife blade on my KC exclusive Sig K320, and stone washed titanium scales on my Spyderco Para 3, and I noticed they are both super smooth to the touch. Is this a natural result or is there something extra done to stonewashes to give them that smooth feel?
Hey DCA ! I got my hand on a crk umnumzaan and use it as my working knife on the fishing vessel I’m working on what angel would you go with to get the longest performance? I doesn’t have time to field sharp my knive on sea
Hey DCA, what is your favorite non-knife item that knife center sells
How about the Al Mar SEAR Knife ?3.6" D2 Satin Talon Drop Point, Dragon Hyde black FRN handles and with a gold logo inlay you won't have any trouble finding one....it will come looking for you.
Hey DCA! Many years ago, I had a titanium Benchmade knife that was heat treated to bring out a natural rainbow pattern. It's been so long I don't remember what model it was, but do you have any recommendations for a similar knife?
Serrations are incontrovertibly better for fresh bread and materials of similar texture. I usually use a serrated edge to cut large pieces of low density urethane foam etc. Other that that, an understanding of how not to use a knife like it's a saw or some other tool will handle most other issues. If you really need something that will withstand abuse and don't ever need a fine cut, or you just suck at sharpening, serrations are also probably the way to go. With experience in both use and sharpening, one will usually find fewer and fewer uses for serrations and "toothy" edges.
Great info. It can get a little confusing for neophytes.
David I have a question just how many knives do you own. I've seen a few of them. And boy are they nice. Thanks 🔪😃👍
I honestly don't have an accurate count lol -DCA
if you have a task that has to do with rope, some kind of twine or line, then I can understand why you might choose serrations.
Other than that, they aren't worth time - because a serrated knife will bind in other materials at the absolute worst time.
Hi DCA, I have an older spiderco. full serration, has loosend. it has rivets instead of screws. how can I tighten it back up? Thanks!
Serations are awesome I carry cold steel stations on me every day
I despise serrated blades, especially partially serrated with the serrations at the base. You can't whittle or strip electric wire with a blade like that. As for cutting heavy rope, there's not much call to cut hawser in central Kansas.
Hey there DCA, when it comes to knives many will usually become synonymous with certain categories like tactical/bush craft/gentleman/ECT.... But which ones out there that you know of defy all categories and can't truly be explained? Also you can't choose the Boker Magnum Mermaid lol