Thank you, Mark! The '63 Evinrude has my favorite graphic of the Jetstream cowl era Evinrudes. It is a good looking and excellent running motor. This one turned out great once I got all the kinks worked out. 30mph is definitely scooting along in a little tin boat. Thanks for watching!
Indeed this motor turned out fantastic. It is a great pairing with the Alumacraft FD with a center steering deck also. I'm very pleased with this combination. Thanks for watching!
@@lbbradley55 This one turned out great. I'm looking forward to running it again. I may put this on my Alumacraft Flying C after I get it ready for the water. I will eventually put twin 35s on it, but this may go on it first. Thanks for watching!
Same age as me. Better looking thought ha ha. I love the front of these ol girls with just a lovely design, no knobs or buttons. So very stylish. This is such a great show. I'd go nuts if I lived in the USA with your access to old motors, but unfortunately here in Australia they are almost extinct, and expensive if you can find one. ❤
I really like the design of these motors too. Having the knobs behind the front door is a nice thing. I'm glad you enjoy my videos. Some say I have gone nuts with my outboards. It is definitely something to habe the access that we have to these old outboards in the USA. Especially in this region (Great Lakes and Midwest) where the water is fresh and the boating season is relatively short. Thanks for watching!
There is one for sale next door here in Kelowna BC Canada for $75, but the boat shops here deal with $250,000 ski boats and won't even look up a part number for a fella, might grab it anyway and see if she runs, but cross boarder shipping on boat parts makes tuning up the old ones really spendy! Loved seeing this run!
Had one of those 20 years ago. Bought it dirt cheap but without an electric start and it sure didnt start as good as yours so there was a lot of arm muscle 😅 My dad used to call the Ävenrodd which was Swedish for "also rowing" since according to him Evinrudes were notoriously hard to start(don't know about that though). When I got tired of it I sold it in a couple of hours since there were a lot of enthusiastic buyers for these it seemed. The noice brings back memories, seems like you have a fine example
Back in the 60's we lived on a big lake in Connecticut. Folks has a 15' Glastron with a 40 horse Evinrude "lark" motor. With just one person in the boat we would get about 32mph on the water. Pulling a skier out of the water if it was a full size adult took some effort. Me at about 135 lbs at the time worked ok.
32 mph is hauling pretty good for a 15 foot Glastron. My dad had a 14 foot plywood runabout with a 35hp Johnson and everybody in the family used to water ski behind that boat. Good times! Thanks for watching!
Yup, she scoots right along. It will do a pretty steady 30mph with a 35hp Big Twin also. This 40 runs SOOOO nice. This is a great little boat. You won't fall asleep at the wheel at 30mph, but it handles very nicely for what it is. This boat is a ton of fun on calm water on an inland lake. With a 22 c.i. 25hp I'm getting 29mph out of my Aerocraft P-12 also. That is little more than a glorified beer can compared to this Alumacraft FD. It too handles surprisingly well for being nothing more than a deep sided 12 foot car topper that I built remote controls in. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! It is a great motor. It turned out to be a fantastic runner and there may be a couple more MPH hiding in it somewhere. We'll see if I can find them sometime. This motor isn't going anywhere for a long time. It makes a great pairing with this boat and is a lot of fun to run. Thanks for watching!
I have a rescued 1966 Johnson 40 HP (not as stylish as your Evinrude) that I am really curious about on my FD. Has not been run yet but is ready. You've got a very nice motor my friend!
I agree about the styling of the 60s Johnsons but here great motors and they don't look bad. I just don't like the look as well as the Evinrude of the same era. The 40 is a blast on the FD. It's not really too wild. Plenty of power and it scoots right along. They do use quite a bit of fuel, but they're fun anyway. You pretty much need a passenger for a tiller operated 40, but with the mid steering it's great either way. Thanks for watching, David!
Sure would like the see that camera more forward so we get a better view back thru the boat !!..........Edit: I take it back, once you spun it around all was fulfilled !! Glad to see this video to keep me goin until I can get my 58 FD project and 54 RD 25hp running. Finished all the ign. and new fuel lines today, impeller check up and start on that transom tomorrow.
It is days like this, on a beautiful lake, with a great boat/engine, that make our hobby so enjoyable. I can think of no better therapy. That Bigtwin is so quiet, can't hear it over the wind noise....
You are so right. This was a perfect day on the lake. The Big Twin performed flawlessly. It is a great running motor and is indeed incredibly quiet. Almost unbelievably quiet for a classic 2-stroke. It runs strong and quiet and idles great. It was a great time running this rig during our 4th of July vacation. This one is not going anywhere. Thanks for watching, Don!
i re did a 33hp ski-twin last winter. isn't it amazing how smooth and quite these old girls are? don't make em' like this anymore thanks for the video!
Yes, these are wonderful motors. A little on the thirsty side compared to today's motors, but so much simpler and maintainable. The Ski-Twin 33s are great. The 40s have the super quiet exhaust and are quieter still. This motor is a lot of fun on this little 14 foot aluminum boat. It makes a great little rig. They sure don't make 'em like this anymore. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! Did I understand that correctly about the prop you are running? It is a two blade bronze with a 10" diameter prop with a 15" pitch? I have never used a two blade prop before and got the impression that they are generally more for speed and racing. I have a couple of similar 40's that I run on similar sized vintage wooden and aluminum boats. I get similar top speeds with 3 blade 11" and 12" pitch props. Do you need a higher pitch (e.g., 15 vs 12) on a two blade to keep the revs in the right zone?
Yes, that is correct. The prop I ran in this video is a 10 x 15P 2-blade. They are intended for improving top end speed. They typically give up bottom end holeshot for top end speed. You're also correct about the extra pitch being needed to keep the RPMs in the correct range. The 2-blade prop allows more slippage in the water, but with a light load the extra pitch will keep pushing past the point a 3-blade with a lower pitch might. The 2 blades will have a lower resistance in the water due to prop area, and more resistance is attributed to prop pitch. That is what allows the higher speed at lighter load. In reality there was only about 0.5mph top end gain woth this prop over a 13P 3-blade and the 3 blade gives better low end performance. That will vary based on hull design and how the hull is balanced. The lower the hydrodynamic resistance the more advantage the 2 blade high pitch prop will have at top end. Thanks for watching!
She runs a strong and steady 29mph and I have hit 31.5 if conditions are just right. Just an awesome little rig. I love this boat. Thanks for watching!
That's great. Excellent motors. A bit thirsty by today's standards but excellent reliable runners with lots of torque. This one did turn out to be a winner. It is one of my favorite motors to run. If you want to chat my email is bbreitner at hotmail dot com. Thanks for watching!
That is a beautiful motor! I love that style. I've had over 50 old outboards in my day, but never one with that style. I had somebody give me 2 33 HP cowlings that I was going to make mailboxes out of, but can't bring myself to ruining them. Too bad you weren't a little closer, I could probably set you up with another 25 fixer-uppers.
Thank you. I am partial to this style also and the '63 is my favorite graphic of this style. I don't blame you for not wanting to ruin the 33hp cowls for mailboxes, especially if they are nice ones. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. I always wanted a Whaler 13 Sport. Nice little boat. The Evinrude Lark IV is a twin cylinder 2-stroke 40hp. It runs on a factory recommended fuel mix ratio of 24:1 gasoline to TCW-3 water cooled outboard oil. It was made in 1962. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. This motor was given to me by a friend. He bought it on the way to an outboard club meet in Wisconsin and he needed to make room for another purchase he made on the way back home. I gave him a few bucks since I didn't feel like I could take it for nothing. It was in non running condition and gave me a few fits getting it going, but it turned out great after putting a bunch of work into it. I really have no idea what he paid for it when he bought it. These motors show up for sale in running condition for a few hundred dollars from time to time. Sorry to hear yours got stolen. Thanks for watching!
This is my Alumacraft FD. It is a 14 foot aluminum boat. It's about 50" wide and 13'10" long. These were rated for 35-40hp depending on the year. You should refer to the capacity plate in the boat to verify max rated HP. If that is missing, try to dig up the info on the boat online. Thanks for watching!
Hey there, another great video!!! I was wondering what the speed of that boat is with your 25hp motor on it? I've got that 15' Meyers runabout and I have a couple of those 40hp Evinrudes and I also have a good running 25hp Johnson. All of them are old motors so I was wondering the speeds to determine if it's worth the extra gas for a few mph? Thanks again bud!
Hey! Thank you. With this boat and my '54 Johnson RD-16 25hp on it I got 26mph with myself at the tiller and another adult passenger in the front of the boat. Once you start to approach 30mph with this type of hull it takes a lot more HP to get a little more speed. Before you know it you reach maximum hull speed and you start having things like undulation of the floor when the hull's rigidity is overcome by the prop thrust and it starts to buckle. Bad things can happen quickly once you reach that point. Generally speaking that does not occur until well past rated HP, but that depends on the manufacturer and the condition of the boat. All that said, going faster on the water starts to take exponentially more power once you get past a certain point with a given hull design. You are not likely to see more than four or five mph greater speed with a 40hp over a 25hp Outboard. The bonus is that with the 40hp you can back off the throttle and cruise at a lower RPM and often use less fuel than running the same speed with the 25 at WOT. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 that was a great answer... I've been wondering since starting on restoring the boat what motor to use. I do have a 94 Merc 40hp oil injected with power trim that I could put on the boat, but I'm a bit scared that it would be squirrely. In my experience I've found that Merc's hp to hp will out run an Evinrude. I am really looking forward to spring and getting the Meyers done so I can play with different motors like you do. I wish I lived closer to you.. I could learn a lot from you!!!!! Oh an I read one of your comments about the bottom of the boat bending.. I've had that happen to me on some of my old row boats when they get to a certain speed.. sounds scary when it does it.. My last rowboat was 14.5' fiberglass boat and it did that with my 25hp Johnson but boy would it move right along. So anyhow, I wish that my motors and Meyers weren't tucked away behind so much stuff I would send you some pic's. Have a great day! Hope to meet up with you one day!
Interesting piece of nautica history! I have the same engine After i restarted end setted the carburettor, i saw a problem: at minimum rotation It over heats up to 230°F, It take ten minutes but increase, but just i insert the Gear even without accelerate, the temperature drop quikly at 100°F. At maximum Power the same hottest parts of Power head mantain among 158/170°F. May be It normal than at low rotation without Gear in, It over heats?
It is not normal for the engine to overheat while in neutral. That is a symptom of an inefficient/failing water pump. At low speed, the impeller is intended to act as a displacement pump. If the vanes of the impeller have taken a set, they will not seal properly against the inside of the impeller housing. When the gearcase is put into forward gear, the prop wash forces water into the water intake snout just behind the prop. The thrust assists in pushing water through the cooling system. At higher speed the pump also becomes a centrifugal pump. Between the centrifugal mode of.the pump and the water being forced into the pickup, it is cooling. When the engine speed is at idle and the prop is not pushing water, the pump is no longer working properly. You at least need a new impeller and depending on the condition of.the rest of the pump, may need a new pump kit. Another thing to note is that this is a recirculating cooling system so water only sprays out the relief hole when the thermostat is open. When the engine cools sufficiently, the thermostat closes and the water doesnt exit again until it warms up. This cycle repeats continuously. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your answer, Indeed the impeller Is good but his aluminium case has become irregular, my engine has not termostatic and cooling water exit from exhaust pipe. The matter Is where buy spare parts
@@tocdalegn7485 You stated you have the same engine. This engine is definitely thermostically controlled and has the "Super Quiet" exhaust leg which uses the recirculating water system. If you have the 28hp version, it does not have the Super Quiet exhaust housing or a thermostat. I'd be willing to bet you need a new impeller housing and plate, at which point you may as well replace the impeller again. I don't know your location. I order many of my parts from Marineengine.com, Crowley Marine, and iBoats.
No, I do jot trust their, nor anyone else's "mix one ratio of 100:1 or whatever dry ratio they might reccomended for everything". I tend to stick to, or very close to the factory reccomended mix ratio. I know the modern oil is better than the non-detergent SAE30 motor oil that was used in the 50s and earlier. The biggest advantage I see to the new oils is that they stay mixed in the gasoline and they do not carbon up and foul plugs like the old oil. While they may lubricate better too, some older engines do not have roller bearings, and even the ones that do were not built to the tolerances of the newer ones designed to be run on variable ratio oil injection or even 50:1 premix. Thanks for watching!
Hi Johnny, I have about the same rig, a 1960 , 40 hp Lark on a 16 foot STARCRAFT aluminum with windshield . I have recently done all the same types of work on the motor and it runs and idles very weĺl. But, I can only get 21 mph out of it. I have a generic 3 blade prop. The boat trim i believe is good it is up on plane in less than 3 boat lengths. My question is can you recommend a top rpm this motor should run at and at that rpm should the butterfly in the carb be wide open? Thanks, Steve from Canada.
WOT RPM should be right around 4500 with this motor. Your 16 foot Starcraft im sure is a bit heavier than this Alumacraft FD. This boat weights right at 200# empty. I had a 14 foot Starcraft deep V fishing boat that outweighed this boat by at least 60 pounds and the deep V takes more HP to achieve the same speed. This boat is quite flat in back. You may be able to get a fee more MPH, but i don't think you will be approaching 30mph with your boat with 40hp. You may be trimmed in too far if it is getting on plane that quickly too. Trim out a notch and check for optimum full throttle RPM amd go from there. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks for the tips Johnny, what about the throttle butterfly, should it be wide open at full throttle? I'm concerned about a runaway,,,
@@stevefortin7504 Yes, the throttle valve should be completely horizontal (wide open) at full throttle. There is a cutout switch on the motor that will cut soark to one cylinder if it reaches excessive RPM. Full throttle should only be attempted under load either on a boat with the prop in place or in a proper test tank with the correct test wheel in place of the propeller. Do not try to run this motor on water muffs. There is not a proper input for them. If you have a Flushette with the proper connection that can be used but do not go above fast idle without the backpressure of the housing being in the water. That can cause a runaway also.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thank you my friend, I'll do this testing this weekend and let you know how I made out, I know for a fact the butterfly is not horizontal at full throttle.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks! That was my guess. I think it’s a 63 but someone ripped off the model number plate. I know they switched to roller bearings in 64
These became 50:1 beginning in 1964. Technically there are no differences internally between the 1962-up Big Twins. I have been told the 1964 and up models came.from the factory with coated pistons. They were still run on 24:1 for break in, but that was typical for all premix50:1 2-stroke outboards for many years. Your motors were always 50:1 mix motors from the factory. You're not doing anything wrong. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get your parts I just picked one up and needs some parts. Been sittin a while. What would you do to it. It’s on a 1960-1970 mfg classic from what I can find out
I get many of my parts from Marineengine.com. There are a number of other sites as well. If you have a local dealer they can get parts for you too. If your motor has been sitting for a time, I would go through the ignition and freshen that up. This one still had original coils that were all cracked so they needed to be replaced. Yours may not. New points, condensers, spark plugs, plug wires if they show any signs of rubbing or chafing. Rebuild the carburetor. There are no kits available any longer, but parts can be bought individually. Replace the fuel lines. Replace at least the water pump impeller. If the other parts are getting worn, replaced them as well. Check the gearcase seals for leaks and replace whatever is leaking then replace the gear oil. That is what I would do to it to bring it back to reliable service. Thanks for watching!
Hi Johnny you always mention that you pick up some of your Motors at Tomahawk is that a swap meet or is it like a place where you can actually buy used motors
Tomahawk is the biggest AOMCI swap meet of the year. It is held in Tomahawk, Wisconsin. This year's meet was unfortunately canceled due to the Coronavirus pandemic. Thanks for watching!
There isn't anything homemade on the gear selector. It is all factory parts. I'm not sure which part you're referring to, though. Is it the 1/4 turn connector that connects to the shift lever on the motor? Is it the clip on the side of the outboard that holds the motor end of the cable? Thanks for watching!
I have the same motor have issues with the float pin on the carb it pukes out gas when I squeez the prime changed the float and pin and gaskets get the same issue just not as often was thinking bending the float or something
The float should sit level with the carb body when the carb is held upside down. Start there. Also, check that the float can swing and not catch on anything. It kind of sounds like it may be occasionally hanging up on something. Thanks for watching!
Comment if there is anyway you could open up the top of your motor and show me a picture of the carburetor linkage and the way it is supposed to be correctly installed for your unit to run I have the exact motor and cannot get it to run right it looks like the linkage is wrong
I'm not sure if I can get you a picture that will do you any good. If I get a chance, I can pull the boat out and the cover off the motor and see if I can get you anything that would help.
There where no differences in the 1964 engines, except for a thicker Tin Platiing on the Pistons, which wore off during Break-in. All the Bearings , are the same as in the 1963 engine. So you can run a TCW-3 Oil at 50:1 in that your engine.
I believe that is also the case with the 18s all the way back to 1958. The '57 is the only one (of the 18s) that originally had different needle bearings on the wrist pins that the rest of the run. Still, the factory reccomended ratio on pre-1964 motors was 24:1. I will only recommend factory reccomended ratios when asked. I agree that some motors had no design change that went along with the ratio change and in some cases, like this one, that chage was more arbitrary than having anything to do with powerhead design. Thanks for watching!
Yes, the 28hp is basically the old 25hp powerhead on the non-super quiet leg and does look very similar to this 40hp with the super quiet lower. The 28s were good motors as well. Thanks for watching!
I had a ski twin 28hp was a oldie but a goodie still mucking around with boats an outboards up graded to a launch now with a 200hp V6 yam two stroke thanks for your reply boat on mate
Your question is a bit too general for me to answer yes or no. I will say that OMC built some outboards that were fitted with jet drive lower units. The older ones, at least, were standard outboards up to the point where the lower unit attaches. Those could have the jet drive removed and a standard prop drive lower unit attached in its place. Thanks for watching!
Can you elaborate on what that specific reason the manufacturer put a three blade prop on this motor from the factory? I can elaborate on the reason I ran it with a two blade, but would really like to hear your take on the specific reason the three blade was what the factory provided and apparently intended this motor to be run with.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 the reason that John / Evinrude omc put three blade props on there outboards in horse power rangers from 9.9 and up was to lesson the drain on the power head and achieve maximum speed a quicker exceleration mainly on fishing and please boats and utilitarian small craft vessels as well when you run a two blade prop your not able to maximize your top end/top speed with a three blade prop you have the best of all three low mid range and high end with a two blade you only get low and high no in between / no mid range and a four blade prop is soly for pushing and pulling /towing performance even most racing props are a three blade with the exception of course of some two blade racing props have a multitude of different pitches for instance my old man has a 66 mirror craft 14 ft aluminum with a 63/64 Evinrude 33 HP ski twin witch I've worked on many times but has been sitting since 87 because his brother replaced the clutch dog but not the shaft bushing witch is ovalled out as there always in forward 95 percent of the time very little time in reverse of course they didn't listen to me the guy who knows them inside and out believe his brother not the son who know last time out in 87 she would jump out of gear when throttled up after a new clutch dog was put in by his brother and I saw the ovalled out bronze bushing well you know the rest he's let it sit and languish ever since the cover doesn't even say Evinrude anymore pisses me off royal as my grandfather his father bought the boat and motor he would roll in his grave to see it now steering locked up rotted seats stuck in forward gear won't come out with out taking it apart as well trailer also but he won't get rid of it because it was his father's it still could be running but his stubborn pride and bullshit have left it in ruin all because of the fact he wouldn't listen to me instead he listened to his brother the bsrr any motor less of 9.9 you had to rotate motor completely around to get reverse action I've had a 60 HP Evinrude triumph 18 hp fast twin 40 HP Evinrude lark and some Elgin's from sears and a 75 speedi four I've been around a while you could say if it runs on gas and oil I'll fix it rebuild it etc
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That is a beautiful motor. People don't realize just how fast 30 mph is in one of those little boats...you are MOVING! Great video JR.
Thank you, Mark! The '63 Evinrude has my favorite graphic of the Jetstream cowl era Evinrudes. It is a good looking and excellent running motor. This one turned out great once I got all the kinks worked out. 30mph is definitely scooting along in a little tin boat. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Yep...some take a little work as you well know but she is a BEAUTY!
The rattle and squeak of the cables brings back memories
They do have a rather nostalgic sound to them. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic!!!! That motor runs great! The combination of that motor and that boat is perfect!!! Thanks again for another great ride along.
Indeed this motor turned out fantastic. It is a great pairing with the Alumacraft FD with a center steering deck also. I'm very pleased with this combination. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404
My father and I rebuilt one just like it. Ran it for years after.
Nice to see and hear this.
@@lbbradley55 This one turned out great. I'm looking forward to running it again. I may put this on my Alumacraft Flying C after I get it ready for the water. I will eventually put twin 35s on it, but this may go on it first. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404
Be sure and send me a video of that.
Thanks
Same age as me. Better looking thought ha ha. I love the front of these ol girls with just a lovely design, no knobs or buttons. So very stylish. This is such a great show. I'd go nuts if I lived in the USA with your access to old motors, but unfortunately here in Australia they are almost extinct, and expensive if you can find one. ❤
I really like the design of these motors too. Having the knobs behind the front door is a nice thing. I'm glad you enjoy my videos. Some say I have gone nuts with my outboards. It is definitely something to habe the access that we have to these old outboards in the USA. Especially in this region (Great Lakes and Midwest) where the water is fresh and the boating season is relatively short. Thanks for watching!
Wow, that's a mighty fast mover there sir. Outstanding job.
She definitely does move out. It is such a great runner and the whole rig is a real pleasure to run. Thanks for watching, Bill!
Nice !!!! I've got a 1966 40 hp big twin I'll restore this summer
There is one for sale next door here in Kelowna BC Canada for $75, but the boat shops here deal with $250,000 ski boats and won't even look up a part number for a fella, might grab it anyway and see if she runs, but cross boarder shipping on boat parts makes tuning up the old ones really spendy! Loved seeing this run!
Had one of those 20 years ago. Bought it dirt cheap but without an electric start and it sure didnt start as good as yours so there was a lot of arm muscle 😅 My dad used to call the Ävenrodd which was Swedish for "also rowing" since according to him Evinrudes were notoriously hard to start(don't know about that though). When I got tired of it I sold it in a couple of hours since there were a lot of enthusiastic buyers for these it seemed. The noice brings back memories, seems like you have a fine example
Back in the 60's we lived on a big lake in Connecticut. Folks has a 15' Glastron with a 40 horse Evinrude "lark" motor. With just one person in the boat we would get about 32mph on the water. Pulling a skier out of the water if it was a full size adult took some effort. Me at about 135 lbs at the time worked ok.
32 mph is hauling pretty good for a 15 foot Glastron. My dad had a 14 foot plywood runabout with a 35hp Johnson and everybody in the family used to water ski behind that boat. Good times! Thanks for watching!
30 mph in that ? Wow that’s fast you’d better be on top of that baby because it’s real fast. I am impressed !
Yup, she scoots right along. It will do a pretty steady 30mph with a 35hp Big Twin also. This 40 runs SOOOO nice. This is a great little boat. You won't fall asleep at the wheel at 30mph, but it handles very nicely for what it is. This boat is a ton of fun on calm water on an inland lake. With a 22 c.i. 25hp I'm getting 29mph out of my Aerocraft P-12 also. That is little more than a glorified beer can compared to this Alumacraft FD. It too handles surprisingly well for being nothing more than a deep sided 12 foot car topper that I built remote controls in. Thanks for watching!
Well thats a great motor you got there OJR she's a beauty and I bet you can get an extra few more MPH's out of her in some way as well.
Thank you! It is a great motor. It turned out to be a fantastic runner and there may be a couple more MPH hiding in it somewhere. We'll see if I can find them sometime. This motor isn't going anywhere for a long time. It makes a great pairing with this boat and is a lot of fun to run. Thanks for watching!
Lovely video OJR! Looks like a lot of fun out on the lake. Beautiful boat and motor! Stay safe out there. Seth
Thank you, Seth. It was a great time and the weather was great every day. Thanks for watching!
I have a rescued 1966 Johnson 40 HP (not as stylish as your Evinrude) that I am really curious about on my FD. Has not been run yet but is ready. You've got a very nice motor my friend!
I agree about the styling of the 60s Johnsons but here great motors and they don't look bad. I just don't like the look as well as the Evinrude of the same era. The 40 is a blast on the FD. It's not really too wild. Plenty of power and it scoots right along. They do use quite a bit of fuel, but they're fun anyway. You pretty much need a passenger for a tiller operated 40, but with the mid steering it's great either way. Thanks for watching, David!
@oldjohnnyrude8404 I did add a tiller to it but my FD is a side helm. C'mon spring!
@@davidparlee3102 It's great to have both. YES!! C'mon Spring!!
Sure would like the see that camera more forward so we get a better view back thru the boat !!..........Edit: I take it back, once you spun it around all was fulfilled !! Glad to see this video to keep me goin until I can get my 58 FD project and 54 RD 25hp running. Finished all the ign. and new fuel lines today, impeller check up and start on that transom tomorrow.
I hope your boat and motor project is going well. I'm glad you got to see what you wanted to see in the boat. Thanks for watching!
It is days like this, on a beautiful lake, with a great boat/engine, that make our hobby so enjoyable. I can think of no better therapy. That Bigtwin is so quiet, can't hear it over the wind noise....
You are so right. This was a perfect day on the lake. The Big Twin performed flawlessly. It is a great running motor and is indeed incredibly quiet. Almost unbelievably quiet for a classic 2-stroke. It runs strong and quiet and idles great. It was a great time running this rig during our 4th of July vacation. This one is not going anywhere. Thanks for watching, Don!
i re did a 33hp ski-twin last winter. isn't it amazing how smooth and quite these old girls are? don't make em' like this anymore thanks for the video!
Yes, these are wonderful motors. A little on the thirsty side compared to today's motors, but so much simpler and maintainable. The Ski-Twin 33s are great. The 40s have the super quiet exhaust and are quieter still. This motor is a lot of fun on this little 14 foot aluminum boat. It makes a great little rig. They sure don't make 'em like this anymore. Thanks for watching!
Love it thanks for the ride awesome looking lake.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the ride. It is a very nice lake.
Thanks for the video! Did I understand that correctly about the prop you are running? It is a two blade bronze with a 10" diameter prop with a 15" pitch? I have never used a two blade prop before and got the impression that they are generally more for speed and racing. I have a couple of similar 40's that I run on similar sized vintage wooden and aluminum boats. I get similar top speeds with 3 blade 11" and 12" pitch props. Do you need a higher pitch (e.g., 15 vs 12) on a two blade to keep the revs in the right zone?
Yes, that is correct. The prop I ran in this video is a 10 x 15P 2-blade. They are intended for improving top end speed. They typically give up bottom end holeshot for top end speed. You're also correct about the extra pitch being needed to keep the RPMs in the correct range. The 2-blade prop allows more slippage in the water, but with a light load the extra pitch will keep pushing past the point a 3-blade with a lower pitch might. The 2 blades will have a lower resistance in the water due to prop area, and more resistance is attributed to prop pitch. That is what allows the higher speed at lighter load. In reality there was only about 0.5mph top end gain woth this prop over a 13P 3-blade and the 3 blade gives better low end performance. That will vary based on hull design and how the hull is balanced. The lower the hydrodynamic resistance the more advantage the 2 blade high pitch prop will have at top end. Thanks for watching!
That's moving!
See you this weekend.
Yessir! It scoots along nicely! See you this weekend!👍
This thing is cranking ! How fast ? That’s my boat.
She runs a strong and steady 29mph and I have hit 31.5 if conditions are just right. Just an awesome little rig. I love this boat. Thanks for watching!
wow shes a screamer,, smooth too,
I was very happy with how this motor turned out. It's a great runner. Thanks for watching!
Hi. I just picked up an old Evinrude and was told it’s a 63 forty hp. Like to chat with you about it sometime. Yours is sweet
That's great. Excellent motors. A bit thirsty by today's standards but excellent reliable runners with lots of torque. This one did turn out to be a winner. It is one of my favorite motors to run. If you want to chat my email is bbreitner at hotmail dot com. Thanks for watching!
That old motor runs well .
Thank you! This one gave me some challenges along the way, but it turned out to be a favorite. Thanks for watching!
That is a beautiful motor! I love that style. I've had over 50 old outboards in my day, but never one with that style. I had somebody give me 2 33 HP cowlings that I was going to make mailboxes out of, but can't bring myself to ruining them. Too bad you weren't a little closer, I could probably set you up with another 25 fixer-uppers.
Thank you. I am partial to this style also and the '63 is my favorite graphic of this style. I don't blame you for not wanting to ruin the 33hp cowls for mailboxes, especially if they are nice ones. Thanks for watching!
Nice. I just got a Whaler with Lark IV. What years were they made?
Thank you. I always wanted a Whaler 13 Sport. Nice little boat. The Evinrude Lark IV is a twin cylinder 2-stroke 40hp. It runs on a factory recommended fuel mix ratio of 24:1 gasoline to TCW-3 water cooled outboard oil. It was made in 1962. Thanks for watching!
Look and sounds great, I have the same motor on a 1963 Performer Boat. I'm wondering what your compression is on each cylinder?
Thank you. This one has around 110-115psi per cylinder for compression. Thanks for watching!
Nice Lake, nice motor, we had the same motor but it was taken by thieves . What is the price you paid for that motor?
Thank you. This motor was given to me by a friend. He bought it on the way to an outboard club meet in Wisconsin and he needed to make room for another purchase he made on the way back home. I gave him a few bucks since I didn't feel like I could take it for nothing. It was in non running condition and gave me a few fits getting it going, but it turned out great after putting a bunch of work into it. I really have no idea what he paid for it when he bought it. These motors show up for sale in running condition for a few hundred dollars from time to time. Sorry to hear yours got stolen. Thanks for watching!
How big is the boat. Just aquired one but not sure if its too big for my boat. 13.5 fiber glass. 48” wide.
This is my Alumacraft FD. It is a 14 foot aluminum boat. It's about 50" wide and 13'10" long. These were rated for 35-40hp depending on the year. You should refer to the capacity plate in the boat to verify max rated HP. If that is missing, try to dig up the info on the boat online. Thanks for watching!
Can you send me info on how to hookup steering to motor, and what type I need.
Thanks
Bryan
Hey there, another great video!!! I was wondering what the speed of that boat is with your 25hp motor on it? I've got that 15' Meyers runabout and I have a couple of those 40hp Evinrudes and I also have a good running 25hp Johnson. All of them are old motors so I was wondering the speeds to determine if it's worth the extra gas for a few mph? Thanks again bud!
Hey! Thank you. With this boat and my '54 Johnson RD-16 25hp on it I got 26mph with myself at the tiller and another adult passenger in the front of the boat. Once you start to approach 30mph with this type of hull it takes a lot more HP to get a little more speed. Before you know it you reach maximum hull speed and you start having things like undulation of the floor when the hull's rigidity is overcome by the prop thrust and it starts to buckle. Bad things can happen quickly once you reach that point. Generally speaking that does not occur until well past rated HP, but that depends on the manufacturer and the condition of the boat. All that said, going faster on the water starts to take exponentially more power once you get past a certain point with a given hull design. You are not likely to see more than four or five mph greater speed with a 40hp over a 25hp Outboard. The bonus is that with the 40hp you can back off the throttle and cruise at a lower RPM and often use less fuel than running the same speed with the 25 at WOT. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 that was a great answer... I've been wondering since starting on restoring the boat what motor to use. I do have a 94 Merc 40hp oil injected with power trim that I could put on the boat, but I'm a bit scared that it would be squirrely. In my experience I've found that Merc's hp to hp will out run an Evinrude. I am really looking forward to spring and getting the Meyers done so I can play with different motors like you do. I wish I lived closer to you.. I could learn a lot from you!!!!! Oh an I read one of your comments about the bottom of the boat bending.. I've had that happen to me on some of my old row boats when they get to a certain speed.. sounds scary when it does it..
My last rowboat was 14.5' fiberglass boat and it did that with my 25hp Johnson but boy would it move right along. So anyhow, I wish that my motors and Meyers weren't tucked away behind so much stuff I would send you some pic's. Have a great day! Hope to meet up with you one day!
Looks like great fun
You bet! This little rig is a blast.
Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 only old engine I have is my grandfather's 1968 ish Ted Williams 7.5. I've rebuild carb and water pump. Still runs good
@@agmc4me It's great that you have your grandfather's motor and have it running and are using it.
I bet you're happy you had s few days with calm water. That sucker flies
You bet! It was awesome having a couple days that I could just play on the boat on calm water. It was a great time up north.
Quick question. What transom length is that?
This is a short transom boat (~15") and a short shaft Big Twin. Thanks for watching!
Interesting piece of nautica history! I have the same engine
After i restarted end setted the carburettor, i saw a problem: at minimum rotation It over heats up to 230°F, It take ten minutes but increase, but just i insert the Gear even without accelerate, the temperature drop quikly at 100°F.
At maximum Power the same hottest parts of Power head mantain among 158/170°F.
May be It normal than at low rotation without Gear in, It over heats?
It is not normal for the engine to overheat while in neutral. That is a symptom of an inefficient/failing water pump. At low speed, the impeller is intended to act as a displacement pump. If the vanes of the impeller have taken a set, they will not seal properly against the inside of the impeller housing. When the gearcase is put into forward gear, the prop wash forces water into the water intake snout just behind the prop. The thrust assists in pushing water through the cooling system. At higher speed the pump also becomes a centrifugal pump. Between the centrifugal mode of.the pump and the water being forced into the pickup, it is cooling. When the engine speed is at idle and the prop is not pushing water, the pump is no longer working properly. You at least need a new impeller and depending on the condition of.the rest of the pump, may need a new pump kit.
Another thing to note is that this is a recirculating cooling system so water only sprays out the relief hole when the thermostat is open. When the engine cools sufficiently, the thermostat closes and the water doesnt exit again until it warms up. This cycle repeats continuously. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your answer, Indeed the impeller Is good but his aluminium case has become irregular, my engine has not termostatic and cooling water exit from exhaust pipe.
The matter Is where buy spare parts
@@tocdalegn7485 You stated you have the same engine. This engine is definitely thermostically controlled and has the "Super Quiet" exhaust leg which uses the recirculating water system. If you have the 28hp version, it does not have the Super Quiet exhaust housing or a thermostat. I'd be willing to bet you need a new impeller housing and plate, at which point you may as well replace the impeller again. I don't know your location. I order many of my parts from Marineengine.com, Crowley Marine, and iBoats.
Just curious. Do you not trust Amsoil’s recommendations for their mix ratios? It’s indeed a very quiet an strong running powerhead.
No, I do jot trust their, nor anyone else's "mix one ratio of 100:1 or whatever dry ratio they might reccomended for everything". I tend to stick to, or very close to the factory reccomended mix ratio. I know the modern oil is better than the non-detergent SAE30 motor oil that was used in the 50s and earlier. The biggest advantage I see to the new oils is that they stay mixed in the gasoline and they do not carbon up and foul plugs like the old oil. While they may lubricate better too, some older engines do not have roller bearings, and even the ones that do were not built to the tolerances of the newer ones designed to be run on variable ratio oil injection or even 50:1 premix. Thanks for watching!
Hi Johnny, I have about the same rig, a 1960 , 40 hp Lark on a 16 foot STARCRAFT aluminum with windshield . I have recently done all the same types of work on the motor and it runs and idles very weĺl. But, I can only get 21 mph out of it. I have a generic 3 blade prop. The boat trim i believe is good it is up on plane in less than 3 boat lengths. My question is can you recommend a top rpm this motor should run at and at that rpm should the butterfly in the carb be wide open?
Thanks, Steve from Canada.
WOT RPM should be right around 4500 with this motor. Your 16 foot Starcraft im sure is a bit heavier than this Alumacraft FD. This boat weights right at 200# empty. I had a 14 foot Starcraft deep V fishing boat that outweighed this boat by at least 60 pounds and the deep V takes more HP to achieve the same speed. This boat is quite flat in back. You may be able to get a fee more MPH, but i don't think you will be approaching 30mph with your boat with 40hp. You may be trimmed in too far if it is getting on plane that quickly too. Trim out a notch and check for optimum full throttle RPM amd go from there. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks for the tips Johnny, what about the throttle butterfly, should it be wide open at full throttle? I'm concerned about a runaway,,,
@@stevefortin7504 Yes, the throttle valve should be completely horizontal (wide open) at full throttle. There is a cutout switch on the motor that will cut soark to one cylinder if it reaches excessive RPM. Full throttle should only be attempted under load either on a boat with the prop in place or in a proper test tank with the correct test wheel in place of the propeller. Do not try to run this motor on water muffs. There is not a proper input for them. If you have a Flushette with the proper connection that can be used but do not go above fast idle without the backpressure of the housing being in the water. That can cause a runaway also.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thank you my friend, I'll do this testing this weekend and let you know how I made out, I know for a fact the butterfly is not horizontal at full throttle.
I have a 63 Johnson 28 should I run 24:1 or the 40:1 I run in my 9.5, fisherman, and ‘81 9.9?
The '63 28hp should be run on 24:1 mix.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks! That was my guess. I think it’s a 63 but someone ripped off the model number plate. I know they switched to roller bearings in 64
I thought these were 50:1.....I have been running a 1968 and a 1971 for years with 50:1....am I doing something wrong?
These became 50:1 beginning in 1964. Technically there are no differences internally between the 1962-up Big Twins. I have been told the 1964 and up models came.from the factory with coated pistons. They were still run on 24:1 for break in, but that was typical for all premix50:1 2-stroke outboards for many years. Your motors were always 50:1 mix motors from the factory. You're not doing anything wrong. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get your parts I just picked one up and needs some parts. Been sittin a while. What would you do to it. It’s on a 1960-1970 mfg classic from what I can find out
I get many of my parts from Marineengine.com. There are a number of other sites as well. If you have a local dealer they can get parts for you too. If your motor has been sitting for a time, I would go through the ignition and freshen that up. This one still had original coils that were all cracked so they needed to be replaced. Yours may not. New points, condensers, spark plugs, plug wires if they show any signs of rubbing or chafing. Rebuild the carburetor. There are no kits available any longer, but parts can be bought individually. Replace the fuel lines. Replace at least the water pump impeller. If the other parts are getting worn, replaced them as well. Check the gearcase seals for leaks and replace whatever is leaking then replace the gear oil. That is what I would do to it to bring it back to reliable service. Thanks for watching!
I have a 1963 big twin that I would like to sale any idea what is a good asking price? Thank you :)
Hi Johnny you always mention that you pick up some of your Motors at Tomahawk is that a swap meet or is it like a place where you can actually buy used motors
Tomahawk is the biggest AOMCI swap meet of the year. It is held in Tomahawk, Wisconsin. This year's meet was unfortunately canceled due to the Coronavirus pandemic. Thanks for watching!
what clamp is that on the gear selector cable something homemade or there an actual part number for that
There isn't anything homemade on the gear selector. It is all factory parts. I'm not sure which part you're referring to, though. Is it the 1/4 turn connector that connects to the shift lever on the motor? Is it the clip on the side of the outboard that holds the motor end of the cable? Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 the clip on the side of the motor that holds the cable in place
I have the same motor have issues with the float pin on the carb it pukes out gas when I squeez the prime changed the float and pin and gaskets get the same issue just not as often was thinking bending the float or something
The float should sit level with the carb body when the carb is held upside down. Start there. Also, check that the float can swing and not catch on anything. It kind of sounds like it may be occasionally hanging up on something. Thanks for watching!
Comment if there is anyway you could open up the top of your motor and show me a picture of the carburetor linkage and the way it is supposed to be correctly installed for your unit to run I have the exact motor and cannot get it to run right it looks like the linkage is wrong
I'm not sure if I can get you a picture that will do you any good. If I get a chance, I can pull the boat out and the cover off the motor and see if I can get you anything that would help.
I have a 58 40hp having power issues how can I contact you i live in Ohio near Sandusky
There where no differences in the 1964 engines, except for a thicker Tin Platiing on the Pistons, which wore off during Break-in. All the Bearings , are the same as in the 1963 engine. So you can run a TCW-3 Oil at 50:1 in that your engine.
I believe that is also the case with the 18s all the way back to 1958. The '57 is the only one (of the 18s) that originally had different needle bearings on the wrist pins that the rest of the run. Still, the factory reccomended ratio on pre-1964 motors was 24:1. I will only recommend factory reccomended ratios when asked. I agree that some motors had no design change that went along with the ratio change and in some cases, like this one, that chage was more arbitrary than having anything to do with powerhead design. Thanks for watching!
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will that motor be a good pair with a 59 alumacraft deep C?
Yes, a 40hp Big Twin is a great pairing with a Deep C. The Deep C is rated for 60hp and a 40 will push it along nicely. Thanks for watching!
I love the video
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Looks just like a28 hp I had went really well
Yes, the 28hp is basically the old 25hp powerhead on the non-super quiet leg and does look very similar to this 40hp with the super quiet lower. The 28s were good motors as well. Thanks for watching!
He'll that was about twenty five years ago had a funny little flap that the starting cord was in went so well can't remember what I did with it
@@Paul-e9w Yep, this 40 had the same door in the front that gives access to the carb adjustments, manual choke, and the starter pull handle. 👍
I had a ski twin 28hp was a oldie but a goodie still mucking around with boats an outboards up graded to a launch now with a 200hp V6 yam two stroke thanks for your reply boat on mate
Is it possible to convert jet out board motor?
Your question is a bit too general for me to answer yes or no. I will say that OMC built some outboards that were fitted with jet drive lower units. The older ones, at least, were standard outboards up to the point where the lower unit attaches. Those could have the jet drive removed and a standard prop drive lower unit attached in its place. Thanks for watching!
Do you ever fish Manistee lake?
I have, but I rarely get out early enough to do any good. Thanks for watching!
damn my fd is not that cool... i got some videos on my channel of it.. 1959 fd
Thank you. I love this boat. You did a great job on yours as well. Thanks for watching!
Screamer
She scoots! Thanks for watching!
why wouldn't you run a three blade prop as it was built and manufactured with there's a specific reason they put a three blade instead of a two blade
Can you elaborate on what that specific reason the manufacturer put a three blade prop on this motor from the factory? I can elaborate on the reason I ran it with a two blade, but would really like to hear your take on the specific reason the three blade was what the factory provided and apparently intended this motor to be run with.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 the reason that John / Evinrude omc put three blade props on there outboards in horse power rangers from 9.9 and up was to lesson the drain on the power head and achieve maximum speed a quicker exceleration mainly on fishing and please boats and utilitarian small craft vessels as well when you run a two blade prop your not able to maximize your top end/top speed with a three blade prop you have the best of all three low mid range and high end with a two blade you only get low and high no in between / no mid range and a four blade prop is soly for pushing and pulling /towing performance even most racing props are a three blade with the exception of course of some two blade racing props have a multitude of different pitches for instance my old man has a 66 mirror craft 14 ft aluminum with a 63/64 Evinrude 33 HP ski twin witch I've worked on many times but has been sitting since 87 because his brother replaced the clutch dog but not the shaft bushing witch is ovalled out as there always in forward 95 percent of the time very little time in reverse of course they didn't listen to me the guy who knows them inside and out believe his brother not the son who know last time out in 87 she would jump out of gear when throttled up after a new clutch dog was put in by his brother and I saw the ovalled out bronze bushing well you know the rest he's let it sit and languish ever since the cover doesn't even say Evinrude anymore pisses me off royal as my grandfather his father bought the boat and motor he would roll in his grave to see it now steering locked up rotted seats stuck in forward gear won't come out with out taking it apart as well trailer also but he won't get rid of it because it was his father's it still could be running but his stubborn pride and bullshit have left it in ruin all because of the fact he wouldn't listen to me instead he listened to his brother the bsrr any motor less of 9.9 you had to rotate motor completely around to get reverse action I've had a 60 HP Evinrude triumph 18 hp fast twin 40 HP Evinrude lark and some Elgin's from sears and a 75 speedi four I've been around a while you could say if it runs on gas and oil I'll fix it rebuild it etc