The ULTIMATE miniature basing guide - UP YOUR GAME
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- The ultimate miniature basing guide - UP YOUR GAME. Showing you how to improve your basing techniques with Geek Gaming Scenics, AK Interactive and Green Stuff World products. First time using UV clear resin and fallen leaves, they are perfect for your Warhammer basing and dioramas.
BASING MATERIALS - Broadsword Shop -
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Ciara's Twitch channel -
/ ciara_elvenblood
AK Interactive Dark Earth -
amzn.to/3fC2Nhd
AK Interactive Dark Mud -
amzn.to/3fE6Bif
Green Stuff World -
bit.ly/39FFWxA
Green scenes - Leaves
www.green-scen...
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Do you enjoy the content? If so, do check out the links below. Your support is greatly appreciated and means a lot. 😀
BASING MATERIALS - Broadsword Shop (EU shipping)
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PATREON - Access to Discord and Patreon only videos
🤟 / broadswordwargaming
ELEMENT GAMES - Miniatures
🗡elementgames.c...
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#Broadswordwargaming #Broadsword
How do you do your bases? It's been great seeing Ciara experiment with new techniques, I've never tried some of these myself! Very impressed with the UV resin 😀 If you like the content, do check out www.patreon.com/broadswordwargaming to support the channel 😎
Question: The liquid resin, if you were to add inks or acrylics to it before it’s cured, how does that react? Does it tint it so not completely clear? 🤔
Sponge Bob is going to be so upset he did not get his face in that base🤣 Personal Used a 22cal case as a massive shell case To a 25mm base for a 4 pin gun rack for 2/5 man sergeant special weapons just in case you want to swap one plasma/grav gun the other flamer/melta each also has a pin magnet to hold the other if preferred. Also used a big charge grenade bomb with some ruin stone around to camo it 3inch range or great trap with trip wire stuff😁. Crap to clean the grass stuff after some time on the shelf the grass looks good like bit of stone cut in and a weed there out your kit there depending. On base size 40mm ok old 25pain. Thanks for the cork😁mini sea shell's wave add in watched one Pacific Rim for water affect not a fan but maybe worth a look??
This is the best bases I’ve ever seen
"Beginner does hobby stuff" concept works well, and I appreciate Ciara's enthusiasm. We've come a long way from goblin green bases.
Haven't we! I meant to ahow an old goblin green base, but forgot. Doh! A classic none the less.
No, Goblin Green bases are the pinnacle.
@@user-ko3tv7jl2r OG basing
I haven't had anything to do with tabletop stuff for about 15 years, just getting back into it, I wasn't even aware that there was anything other than Goblin Green or flocked bases 😅 how times have changed.
I recently returned to the hobby after quitting just after 4th came out.
Seeing the new UM made me want to start a 3rd ed style smurf army, down to the goblin green!
I'm currently collecting GK, but like the idea of starting either an Eldar or Tyranid army in the future. Also potentially Guard, but that's a different level of horde.... If I do, I'll be getting as close to goblin green as I can, whilst still having it tournament ready!
I LOVE basing. It's one of my favourite parts of the hobby. How someone could NOT like it, is beyond me. My go-to method is to build the bases seperately from the models, using a foundation of ready-to-use filler (or spackle) from the tube. That stuff is cheap, easy to use, can be sculpted rather well for around 3 minutes before it starts to set, and when cured, it has a coarse, sand-like surface. While wet, I push chips of pine bark and minced cork into it, representing bigger and smaller rocks. Apart from that, while wet, you can use all kinds of things to detail the base further, like debris, bits or skulls, and let it all cure for 2+ hours. Then prime and paint it in any way you want. Filler is rock-hard when cured, but can easily be drilled through to affix models via pinning.
Basing is awesome! It is one of my favourite parts AND it brings the whole army together..😀
Isn’t it amazing what a little creative imagination coupled with some specialized crafting tools can accomplish!? Ciara showed such enthusiasm! Loved this video!
I make my bases myself, using baking soda! Baking soda when in contact with super glue dries near-instantly due to a chemical reaction between the two materials, so I glue some rocks down where I want them, cover the whole thing with super glue (or, just where I want dirt/sand/ash/etc), then dump baking soda ontop and let it dry. Then you can paint it however you want.
I do black with grey drybrushes to make it look like ash for my MESBG Mordor army.
Love to see Ciara’s reaction when she finishes a base, she seems genuinely pleased with herself as she should be. Great vid guys, keep ‘em coming.
I think she was pretty chuffed, and rightfully so! 😀 I've not played with most of the products and was genuinely interested to see how the water effect turned out.
And thank you 😊
Love this video. I find basing almost as much fun as painting the mini and it definitely makes a difference to wow factor. The best paint job in the world can be let down by crappy or non existent basing. Always interested to see how other people do it.
Dear Ciara & Olli, I love Ciara's expression: ''Bugger. It smells of death...'' your accent reminds me of my own cousin (called Ciara). Love your take on making tutorials. Best Wishes Johnny
I tend to do a double layer. First I cross hatch the base with cuts from a xacto blade. This allows the glue to hold better . Just make sure the base is unpainted or primed to help it to stick better. The first layer will be play sand mixed with a little clay kitty litter (looks like rocks) using Elmer's white glue. After that fully dries I thin down more Elmer's white glue and soak it into the sand base lightly before setting the base in the flocking of my choice. The sand gives it a base to stick to and covers up the painted base. After that dries I splash on small patches of AK DAK Grime or other AK liquid pigments so they soak in. Last will be some flocking patches glued on (again with Elmer's) overlapping some of the AK soaked in spots. Last is to dust the models with Tamiya Dusting compacts so some of the dust also lands on the base to pull it together. Then trim up and paint the base edge and Dullcote seal it (I prefer the flat look).
IMO, a few toothpicks (aka cocktail sticks in your part of the world) are very cheap key tools for basing. They are great to pushing glues around along with resins. Also with resins you can use them to help remove bubbles from the resin before you cure it.
Also cork is great for making rocks out of and then painting them. Cork rocks allow you to be able to pin a mini in to it, unlike real rocks without very special tools.
I'll have to pick some up!
Just a tip for base filler since she wants something thicker then Stirland mud or AK. Get some Dry Wall Spackle and some cheap Hobby Sand from the craft store. Then mix to the texture you want, you can either add paint (use craft store cheap stuff) for the color you want or just painted it (I use Dryad Bark from Citdal for that Dark Chocolate Brown)
You can also use Stucopatch which is exactly that but pre-mixed. I am not sure what it would be called in the UK, but in the US it is simply stucopatch.
So long as you get that brush into a water wash you can totally paint with it after you use it for glue. Also, Luke's products are great but if you live in part of the world where they are more difficult to get then consider fast grab tacky glue. It is more viscous than Luke's but it grabs and cures pretty fast by comparison to other PVA glues.
The best thing about coming back to the hobby after around 20 years is that we have TH-cam and amazing videos like this.
Mug o' wine. Basing set up essential I can't believe I've missed out so far
So yeah now I see I need more basing material
My personal steps for basing my Warhammer 40,000 Iron Warriors army (with an "urban rubble" theme):
*> Add large debris to the bases.* This can be bricks, skulls, pipes, metalwork, broken objects, and so on. When adding elements from "broken buildings", it helps to envisage how the building collapsed, so you can position the rubble as it would naturally fall. Also take into account the pose of the model, as most sensible soldiers try to find the easiest path when navigating through a sea of unstable debris.
As for other elements, try not to overcrowd things. It doesn't make sense for a sea of skulls or discarded weapons to cover the ground, for instance, unless you're implying that an entire opposing army was vaporised a few minutes earlier.
*> Add sand and small slate to the bases:* Use this to fill _some_ of the gaps between the larger pieces of debris, but don't cover the entire base. Try to imagine where some parts of buildings have crumbled away and covered the ground, as use this to inform where you place the sand in relation to the larger chunks of brick and stone.
Again, though, leave some of the flat base texture uncovered, as this resembles pavement which has not been covered by debris. Leaving spaces like this blank makes the space feel more realistic and offers some visual variety. It also implies that, although the area has been devastated by war, it's still clear enough to move an army through.
*> Paint the base and model:* I have a very cold colour palette for my Iron Warriors (silver, black, blue, and flourescent yellow), and i thought a warm colour palette would be a nice contrast. As such, i paint the ground (paving) a burnt russet colour, and the buildings are painted eggshell white, as are the skulls. Metal objects (such as boxes or drain covers) are painted red, silver, or gold, and slightly weathered with black and rust effects. I then paint the rims of the bases a professional-looking matt black, just to make the models "pop" on the tabletop.
*> Add final surface details:* After everything else is done, i add beige-coloured tufts of dry flock here and there, especially by pieces of brick or chinks in the ground, to represent weeds pushing up through the ruined pavement. I also add water effects very sparingly, especially by broken pipes or if something resembles a pothole, to represent pooling liquid which hasn't had time to fully evaporate. Both of these give a little variety to the surface of the bases, and make them look less flat and angular.
I hope this gives some people some inspiration. :)
Thanks for that, always nice to see different ways people base stuff. 😀
« Got excited », seems the glue bottle was even more excited than Ciara 🤣 you’ve got a new subscriber
Cheers from France
Ready.... Set... Go... !!!
I used cotton swabs(buds) to spread the basing glue. Cheap as chips...
Good thinking!
Would they also work for applying Polish to the sides ?
After watching this video I went out and based my first minis! Thanks so much guys
Ah amazing. 😀 Glad it helped.
Great video! Very chilled but also informative
Thanks Jolt! 🥰
Great video. I was looking for desert bases, but I found the ideas here useful too. Definitely will think about the mud puddle. Ciara is great too, she was funny without it being forced (seen that way too much). Informative and entertaining. ❤
Did not expect the Art Attack name drop XD
Those base's look amazing, I made a frosty puddle on a base using cling film and clear nail varnish, doesn't look to bad! I made a murky pond using some epoxy resin from Poundland too!
Love this video. Thanks for showing these techniques. Lots of ideas for basing my own figures now. No more furtively scooping small stones into a jar when walking the dogs 🤣 Thanks again ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Some really good tips and advice here!
Glad you like them!
Nice another Ciara video, love seeing her on your channel. Such a great sport.
Ciara : Well done Hen for your first attempt at Basing you did good!
To polish up the sides of the water base try Tamiya polishing compounds and a cotton bud, works a treat, also, with the AK enamel mud, it dries quite Matt, and its best for making mud splatters, just get some on an old brush and flick it onto a model using a cocktail stick or a bit of sprue, it's a trick afv modellers have been using forever and it looks ace, oh, and your best friend when making bases is Evo stick wood glue, dries quick (ish) holds like the rock of ages, and doesn't stay tacky like the geek gaming stuff does, I just found that weird when I tried it so I went back to my good 'ol Evo stick! 🤣
Thank you , Broadsword .
Youre welcome. 😀
Nice job , Lady Ciara .
Awesome attention to details with these bases, always glad to see new techniques, I do like the fallen leaves, the dark mud...and the presentation, well done!
Mannnn Oliver... I like how you point out that our girl Ciara is drinking from her "mug of wine"!! LOL!! Why are you throwing her under the bus like that? I love your videos, keep up the awesome work you two!
Haha, she loves it. It wouldn't be a ciara video without some from of alcohol. 🤣🤣 thanks buddy. 🙂
Dunno why but I get a sneaky suspicion she's off buying more alcohol claiming she need more cork for the miniatures
@@matso3856 Ha ha ha!!
Really loving these beginner videos, as I’m quite new to the hobby I’m finding them useful. Well done guys
I'm so glad people are finding them helpful! 😀 Just want to show that things aren't aways complicated.
Glad I watched the video I always struggle with the basing
Ciara has the chaotic energy i am absolutely here for
Many people will say that bases shouldn't take away from the model....however I think a really good base enhances a model and really ties things together if done right.
I 100% agree. Basing is one of my faourite parts, and it unifies all of the models :)
❤ Ahh Ciara. You're so much fun! Thank you for being you !!!
My favourite quick, easy and durable basing material is coffee grounds. It takes primer and paint really well, and doing a quick dry brush at the end really gives it the look of gravel or sand
I've been basing my Death Guard army recently with a scheme i like to call "corrupted city."
Eshin Grey first.
Astrogranite, leaving areas without Astrogranite for streams and puddles.
Agrax Earthshade.
Drybrush Dawnstone.
Drybrush Administratum Grey.
Moot Green in the streams and puddles.
Nurgle's Rot over the Moot Green.
Another layer of Nurgle's Rot over the first layer.
Boom, you're done!
This video should be renamed as the ultimate miniature basing guide for rich people. You have every product in the market and also tabletopready, no painting at all.
You dont need to paint bases, a bag of base ready from Geek Gaming is €6, and will go a really long way. 😀 Definitely a cheaper option than using paints and sand etc.
Another great vid thanks!
I grabbed some of that mud! 🤘
This is a really fun video, great work
I think about the basing whilst I am building the mini. It is integral to me too and I have to ground the mini in the setting. I will build up any landforms or structures on the base, planning where the miniatures feet meet the ground.
Great video both.
Yeah man, your terrain stuff is bang on. 👌
I didn't know about the containment shims. They're interesting.
How do you pronounce lichen? I am pretty sure it is ‘lie-ken’ rather than ‘litch-en’ 😂
@@TheImmersiveWorldCrafter you're definitely right 😂
I use the Ammo by Mig Mud, with some static grass of the "muddy field" look. I all so use airdry clay in place of the cork, as it allows me to sculpt it as tiles, cobblestone or even tank tracks.
well now, you made bases, time to show best method of applying said mini's
Had to watch 3 times first two , l was completely distracted by your voice and face third time thru l realized Ollie was actually talking .
I actually have been walking in the woods and as per Bards Craft , l have been chopping pine bark until it is almost a fine powder lt works great.
Haven't tried it yet, but aparently if you use heat on the resin before curing, you get rid of the little bubbles. They usually use either hobby blowtorches or hairdryers or heat guns.
I like the 'this is an actual beginner doing this' angle, but would prefer just one step removed - so rather than not knowing at all what's going to happen, having done it once before and learned from that experience.
Texture cracle paint, wash, drybrush for my Necrons and Imperials. GW 40k bases for everything Nurgle (and coming 30k). Texture paint, wash, drybrush, tufts, skulls, bracken for my Malifaux bases. Snow on the Undead. That's all^^
Love this show. Thanks guys!
Could you do a similar video but do seasonal bases? Snow/winter, etc. This is a wonderful video and I think the gaming community could use more.
I think we should all agree that Ciara basically IS Broadsword Wargaming right now, and Olly is just a guest now and again.
Im just the background editing slave.
Another great video. I love the little puddle one.
Yeah, that one came out really well. 😀
Really enjoyed this video. Thanks!🤠👍
Looking good! And so are the bases
My basing is slightly watered pva, sand, apothecary white contrast paint (grey), more watered pva, sorted 👍
Use occasional tufts. Also do this after mounted model, looks like the guys weight is treading earth down
Sounds great!
I am LOVING seeing Ciara continue to learn more about the hobby. Great product showcase too. I use a tonne of the GGS stuff now but I've been wanting to have a look at some of the AK interactive stuff too. Great work to both of you, keep it up!
Thanks man! Yeah, I'm enjoying them too. She is really happy to try anything, and with no previous experience, she isn't stuck in any regular patterns. I'm learning too! 😀
Wow that was awesome-as 🤩
Thanks, Ciara!!
Mwahaha mug of wine!! Luv it haha
When she said "Got excited" I could not stop laughing :D
All clear bases is the way to go :D
Great video with lots of ideas for a newbie like me to use. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I typically mount the mini's to the base before basing them because I prime and paint my bases and minis at the same time.
I will use a medium CA (superglue) and move it around the base into all the areas I want it, carful not to get it on the model too much. once that is finished, I will sprinkle some relatively fine "sandbox" sand I got at the hardware store. (dirt cheap... BADUM -TISHHHHH). once the sandbox sand is in there, you can move it and the glue around to make ridges and textures.. if the base is big enough you can even create craters and water holes. Once I have the pattern I want and all the rocks, effects, sticks, ect. in the glue, I will dip it in baking soda. This adds a finer texture and it's an insta-set catalyst for CA glue, so it's dry and ready instantly.
take a craft brush and some canned air to get all the baking soda dust off and prime the model.
When painting, the base is my last step. I will use earth colored contrast paints and dry brushing to bring out the ground texture. Then add the same tufts of grass she was using, and various other effects like loose grass with pva glue, snow, dead grass, lichen, ect... Forgot to mention - I seal the model before finishing the base with grasses, so the sealer doesn't gum up or dull the fine grass... I Her bases look great! I will try these things because they look simpler than my method! I do use some cork as well... like most of us. :)
Fun video there, some material I haven't thought about using so its good to see! I've used weathering powers, oil and enamel washes and 1 and 1.5mm cork for layering up bases. The UV resin cure looked good! Somethig to try with fine wet n dry paper to polish the sides maybe?
I have never made a base, built a model, or played any tabletop war game - but I couldn't stop watching.
ONE OF US. ONE OF US.
Another great video!
For dead leaves use tea
I love the Geek Gaming range especially the tufts. Clara is a great presenter
The cork sheeting/chunks shouldn't be underestimated. I've come a long way from just slapping a torn sheet of it down with super glue on top and can now to full urban bases with a little bit of ingenuity. Being able to stack it up, glue bits of sprue, etc, into it goes a long way.
I’m relatively new to the hobby, but I’ve just been basing using glue and then dipping the base into a tub of sand.
When you're putting your rocky terrain on, PLEASE do it over your container of terrain so the spill off goes right back in and you don't lose any. That stuff is expensive!
Looks great and the bases are pretty good as well. The mini dio is cool considering it took mere moments.
Hmmm. That beach base is fire.
I use green tea for leaves/underbrush, but it looks better under static grass.
They all look great, i always enjoy a nice basing video for some new ideas. 1 question though, did E.T. turn up ? (15.23 bottom right corner)
😂
01:51 your wife is secretly a cat, oliver.
Brilliant video and it's given me lots of ideas. I thank you.
You're welcome. 😊
Nice tutorial! I would save money by buying a bottle of clear resin for 3D printing. It's the same stuff and you'll stretch your dollar😉
-John
Good thinking! 😉
Set out to paint all my bases, kill me, kill me now.
Wow, as a beginner, this video took a lot of the anxiety out of basing my new Dominion models. Great stuff!
The quality content I want hhaha good stuff
Great video and the simple bases look much more involved than the time it actually takes to make them. I have a hole punch for making the leaves but sometimes it takes more time than it's worth. Where did you get the mold for the clear resin base? That is much better than the glued on tape I use to form the molds.
We got them from green stuff world ☺️
Super fun video! I enjoyed watching. As a newcomer to the hobby this has inspired me to try better bases. How do you attach the models to bases like this - with super glue or pins?
Ah amazing, Welcome to the hobby! Superglue does the job 99% of the time to be honest.. but you can pin if it's a smooth base and a metal model or something heavy :)
For my ww1 Verdun table, I use Vallejo mud texture and occasional accessories: barbed wire, skulls, you know.
I like basing a lot more than painting :)
If you ever need a sister channel it simply MUST be called 'Blah blah blah blah blah, it's fine.'. :)
🤣🤣 I'm glad people notice the random bits I keep in after editing. I enjoyed that bit.
Using PVA to glue cork on bases works well, but cut some scratches in the base for a perfect adhesion. Let it dry with clamps or a weight before going on with the basing
Good idea! 👍
Bases look great! Now let's please see a video of how to attach you miniature to it's base after you doing all the work on the basing - I've NEVER seen anyone show it!
I normally just pin them using a dremel and a paper clip. 😀
@@BroadswordWargaming that would work, except I only paint Reaper metal miniatures, lol. I really want to see someone base a metal miniature that came with a base pre-moulded in metal!
I was a bit confused about whether the base was actually part of the work being done to the water style base and also aren't you supposed to put your model in before adding the water?
Thanks
Stormknight
It was mainly as example of how to use the product. If you want to stand a model in it, it would work just the same 😀
Kiera's a beauty, i don't do miniature painting etc. anymore but great video
she got excited and splurged everywhere!
💦
I rest my case Haha
@@stevepickford3004 fair enough 😂😂😂
@@stevepickford3004 CLICKBAIT BI ATCH
@@ciara7458 🤣 next step, mini painting only fans
Great video!
Completely aware I’m 3 years old, what you can do is put the sealer in a dropper syringe thing. Much easier to control
Great video guys.
I love the AK line, and the Vallejo scenics products too. Makes life very easy. Birch seeds make great leaves, in fact this might be the same? I've only a few Green Stuff products but I can see myself getting more. Are the rubber molds you made the clear bases with from Green Stuff World? Have you ever used the two part epoxy resin you get in hardware shops for water effects? It's very cheap and cheerful.
Thanks!
Yes, the rubber molds are from Green Stuff world. They're good, they're better on flat bases than bevelled ones though.
I have used the pound shop resin before.. its much the same, but I found it went yellow and shrank, whereas this stuff didn't. 😀 If you're making a Nurgle style bases, they'd be fine.
As a Kiwi it's very weird to see a product called "New Zealand Plains"
Ha, yeah! Time for "Irish fields".. "Nottingham Urban badlands".
Starts at 02:00
what are those things that you put around the bases called? the plastic looking things you guys used for the water resin bases? i need them for my own
So I did my bases using Mediterranean grass. My figures were on the bases, is it safe to spray the figures with Matte Spray or should I use a brush to seal the base? Thanks
Faces and bases. That’s the secret.
Bang on. Bases can really finish off a model. 😀
Stupid question do you always do bases last? As in assembly, painting then bases last?
I always do
Same as Ciara. I normally do them at the end, just becasue I use coloured materials, so don't want to get paint on them. Plus, I prefer to have a model sit "in" the basing products. 😀
@@ciara7458 yeah thought so! I always seem to get flock half way up my models legs when I do it so was wondering if there was another method!
@@BroadswordWargaming Hey sorry to come back to you on this, am a complete newbie so this is all new/hard to me! so i've bought cork roll and the mud and am not sure what order to do things in!
Im building Grave Guard for Warhammer 8th Edition and want to do them how Ciara did them. I've assembled the models and at this point I would attach them to the bases before painting. Just wondering if thats exactly what you would do? So attach cork to base, then attach model and then prime and paint etc and then come back at end to add mud and stones/ flock etc to the corked base?
again sorry for very basic questions! :)
Ciara, great job, new subscriber! 🌺