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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, Chase goes over zeroing your HWS. There are a lot of factors to take into account when zeroing your rifle, more in fact than we can put in one video. We chose some basic parameters to help you learn the baselines when setting out to get your rifle zeroed. We used Shooters Calculator which is a great basic ballistic calculator to get you started and can be found here: www.shooterscalculator.com
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I understand this is an industry account to get peoples eyes on the eotech brand… but I’m glad you guys are putting out information and the videos you guys are putting out
Thank you!
For sure. I got one for my DDmk18. Love it.
When you said make adjustments opposite of where the round is landing. That explained everything. I’ll try this tomorrow
This is great. I just bought an EOTECH & really needed this. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Same I just got my first ever one and this kinda saved me
Add me to the list of . . I just bought my 512 EOTECH . . . GR8T Vid . . Thank YOU
Personally, I prefer the 50 yard zero. Your POA/POI is almost identical from 50-200 yards. Anything closer than 50 is about 1-2 inches low (height over bore). The 50 yard zero is the best overall zero for civilians and law enforcement in my humble opinion.
Would you still recommend this if you're shooting at a range that maxes out at 75-100 feet 99% of the time? I understand the logic behind 50yd zero but also isn't it bad to get into a habit of never aiming at what you actually want to hit and always aiming above it?
@@coplepk04 The mechanical offset only makes your shot hit about 1 or 1.5 inches low from 50 yards and under. Anything beyond that all the way up to 200 is point of aim, point of impact. Pretty much dead on. Now about the range, I would still run a 50-yard zero. It wouldn't hurt to practice those close to medium range shots/holds! Any self-defense situation you might find yourself in will most likely be within 50 yards anyways. Not many instances I can think of where you'll be shooting at someone (illegally) past 50 or 100 yards lol!
thank you for explaining the "opposite" up/down left/right. I have never really understood why it was set up that way until now. The demo on "here's your rear sight and front post" was very helpful in understanding why the bullet will go "opposite"
Cool just received my EXPS3-4 and my G45 magnifier.
Picking up my rifle probably tomorrow or next week since I am going out of town. Will follow your instructions initially to see where it takes me . Thanks for your video
Should have got the g33. The 5x magnifier sucks.
@@robf4605why does it suck in your opinion
I bought some bread, peanut butter, and jam.. think I'll make a sandwich
Thank you for sticking with 25yard zero, as you mentioned indoor range only goes out to 25.
Zero your dot so your hits are 1 inch low at 25 yards and that's basically a 36 yard zero
36 yard zero 5" point and shoot from 0-300 yards. Proven many times in actual combat conditions.
Yep yep yep.
As long as you have a cowitness or lower 1/3 cowitness mount. If you run a 2.26” mount then a 50 yard zero is where it is at.
@@TheDriversPerspective Maybe but there are hundreds of thousands of grunts and Jared's are trained to zero at an inch high at 25 meters (meaning roughly 36 yards) with iron sights, and used as a base for basic rifle qualifications out to 300 meters. Cowitness worked for teams guys for over 15 years, the high optics are okay when running CQB under nods, and or running and gunning in a gas mask, sure, but making them more or less proficient would really be shooter dependent. Because everyone has their ideal set up.
@@TheDriversPerspectivefacts, my 2.26 riser throws my 36 zero off quite a bit. 10/10 would recommend 50 yrd zero for a riser. Granted im shooting pcsl “2gun”. Our stages are setup close and out to 300 on some stages which really allows us to see what works for a varying application.
@jw5197 the zero with a riser isn’t a maybe it’s math. Look at a ballistics chart: zero at 36 yards with that kind of riser and you’ll be way off at distance. 36 yard zeros are great for cowitness and lower 1/3.
Thanks for explaining what to do if there slightly off, now what do I do if there not even on the glass that would have been helpful
Can you make a video if you add a magnifier?
Thanks for the great info! I enjoyed the presentation, and OMG that tri-pod is a new to me and will be purchased before the day is over!
I found this video in search of using EOTech’s full reticle as I have done with my 9mm MPX (xps2). It has been a fantastic weapon sight using the two dots as well as the bottom of the circle. I consistently and reliably lob 147 grain to intended targets with MOM precision. Can you offer any tips in using EOTech’s full reticle and or various dot offerings on the 5.56 platform?
Thanks again, great vid! 🙏🇺🇸👍
I love my eotech exps3 and g33
I Just want to make sure I understand this: you zeroed the target at 25 yards, at 100 yards, your shots will be about 5-6" high, but at 200 yards, your shots should be back on target? This is all taking things like barrel length and ammo type into account too.
So at 25 yards, you aim right where you want your shots to go, at 100 yards you aim low and at 200 yards you aim right where you want your shots to go. Then after 200 yards you are aiming higher than you want shots to go, right?
I’m more curious why so many civilians use 25/300 yards to zero their sight/iron sights on 556? It’s a serious question as my only training came from my time as a infantrymen(army) with the 1st Infantry division. My only zeroing experience was based on 25/300 meters but if you convert that it’s 27.34/328.084 yards. Which at distance is a huge change.
WOW COOL BRO!
Now do it with a unity riser!
Whoa. That's really great.
pretty sure this gun is a DDM4V7 PRO which is the 18" barrel and Geissele trigger. Barrel comes way past hand guard and also has the PRO 18 comp at the end of barrel.
Outstanding info. I'm an old retired Marine who just bought an Eotech 512 and a Telluric small arms collimator. My goal is to establish an initial 36/300 yards BZO on my 14.5" rifle using the Eotech. My question is, the Eotech is calibrated at 1/2 MOA and the collimator rated at sub-MOA. It appears the collimator uses an ACOG style reticle to align the optic which is different from the 1 MOA center-dot Eotech site picture. Any recommendations on how to achieve a 36/300 yard zero with both the collimator and the Eotech?
Thanks and Semper Fi
They really bought a brand new Daniel defense for this video. I can tell because of that stupid factory foregrip location
Facts 🤣🤣I snatched mines off soon as I got it
I have my DDM4V7 with the XPS2 & G43 sighted in at 50 yards. Absolutely LOVE my EOTECHS. Also have the same setup on my RDB Bullpup at 25 yards. They give you a Military Discount if you send them your DD-214. I will eventually get the Vudu 1-10x28 FFP. Totally BADASS!!!!😃
Nobody cares that you spent $3k to look cool.
I was thinking about getting an EOTech 518.a65 for my 3.5" SX4 NWTF 12 gauge. Is that a good choice?
That’s a V7 pro comes as 18” barrel.
Will you get same POI with a magnifier on?
Where did you get your Tripod? looks very strong and stable.
If someone gets the 2-dot HWS should the zero be the top dot for a short distance and the bottom for a different distance?
I need to turn my screw more according to my calculations, but my sight denies turning the screw more. Idont know what to do now
The way, I always thought about adjusting, my dot for my zero is I moved the radical to the impact rather than doing reverse adjustment to get the round to move to the radical
36/300 easy
@4:13 If the rifle is being sighted at 25yd, 1/8 MOA, would it not take 48 clicks to get the desired 6" instead of 24 clicks (50yds)? What am I missing?
@eotechinc stupid question.. do you need to re-zero the optic after a battery change? Thanks
absolutely not lol 😅
Yea no you're good unless you like switch guns and put it back on the first gun or something
ok so the rule to remember is "The direction of the adjust is the direction the point of impact needs to move"
Pro 18” barrel?
Looks like it
Sure looks like you have the DD Pro which is a 18” barrel.
Why would you want a 12" spread when a 36 yard zero will give you 5.5" spread, less thinking when you're talking about unknown distance... also you can do a 36 yard zero on a 25 yard range POI will be just about 1" below the POA
Please god don't argue with anyone telling you that you should zero at 36yds. You're going to upset them.
I’m an outlier and prefer a 45 yard zero.
“until you get the desired effect”🤣🤣🤣
you know it's confusing to make adjustments on an Eotech sight when the Eotech guy can't explain it without tripping, lol!
Someone get this man a g45!
No 36?
So I am still trying to grasp this, I have a hws exps2 and when I’m shooting, the bullets are hitting low, and I’m turning up down knob all the way down with no result, should I be going up?
Yes, move up if you’re hitting low, left if you’re hitting right.
Chase must have gorilla arms if he keeps his vertical grip waaay out there
100 yard zero all day long with irons, red dots, and scopes. Easiest to understand because it is all holdovers. I've seen many guys at matches with different zeros who have all kinds of issues hitting the targets.
Thats not a 16" barrel, it's 18, thats a 3.5ld flat face trigger and a 15" hand guard. That's the daniel defense ddm4v7 pro...
Oh, and run a 36 yard zero.
All that shits too much math. Just get a really good bore laser
Still need math to know your holdovers lol.
Bore lasers are not zero’d. Same thing as doing a regular bore sight. Aka “yeah the bullet will hit somewhere around here”
Directions unclear, optic stuck in the chamber…
Also EXPS3-0 is da bes HWS
Go watch the one from Mike Kroll. This dude is confusing! 😵💫
I was so disappointed with my HWS and magnifier not holding zero, I just sold it them and never bought another. :(
I don’t believe you
Lmao I bet you didn’t push them forward on the rail when clamping down. Loser.
ego tech