In this video, I break down the simple steps to get your rifle sighted in with just 3 shots. Of course you’ll want to shoot some 3-shot groups and shoot further distances to verify.
See!! This right here is why I follow Remi! The way you explain what you are doing instead of just saying "this is how you do it" is very beneficial to men who are getting into hunting! Thank you Remi Warren for this vid!!
I always appreciate your simple explanation of every hunting/shooting topic you create. You created a similar video in 2019 on Instagram that I still have saved. Good work!
Thank you for posting this video. Really appreciate the straightforward way you explain things and don't try to talk over people's heads. Used this method today on my new rifle and I was sighted in for 200 yards with ease. Thanks!!
Hey Remi, I want to share this with you. If you actually zero at 37 yards, that will put you dead on at 200. I do this with all my rifles. What you shown here today I have been doing for 15 plus years. A lot of people told me to f o and told me I was full of it. I am glad seeing someone else showing this. Good luck hunting in 23.
Careful about this; it depends on your bullet, caliber, etc. For my cartridge, .308, etc. it is zero at 28 yards puts me 0 at 200. You must look at a ballistics calculator for your particular situation.
Best thing I learned was to slow the heck down & not move on to next step until your sure/positive of every step along the way Oh, and that I gotta get a sled …we do it w shooter holding gun steady while partner moves crosshairs
Great video and explanation. I'm subscribing and I'm pretty sure I won't be disappointed... but I do have one question, can this be done without a shooting sled?
Gunsmith here. Never trust your final zero without shooting a group of 3 rounds or more to confirm. If you have a gun capable of 1 MOA (1” at 100 yards) for example, a single round could be the edge of the group and the final zero could be up to 1” off or more depending on the actual precision of your rifle. I know some will argue, but lose the sled. Shooting the rifle with the butt captured in a sled-type rest will almost always have a different POI (point of impact) compared to shooting from the shoulder. Also, a sled-type rest can cause damage to the stock (especially wood stocks) at the grip. An adjustable front rest is fine, but the butt of the rifle should always be against the shoulder. In this video, I can only imagine how uncomfortable it was to shoot around that sled and even then, the rifle butt was still touching the sled which can cause accuracy issues. We test all our rifles from the bench with a solid bipod front support and a sandbag at the rear with the rifle against the shoulder.
@@Zer0Edits00 Like I said, some will argue but I have the groups to prove it. We routinely test rifles that produce sub-.300” groups using a bipod or sandbag front and sandbag rear. The rifle must be allowed to recoil naturally for best consistency and accuracy. When you capture the butt of the rifle to prevent recoil, you’re forcing that energy back into the rifle itself. It has to go somewhere.
I'd just add, to those not putting scopes on yourself. Save yourself a lot of potential mental stress and wasted money, double check that everything on your rifle is tight! I've seen way too many "new" rifles with loose action screws and store installed scopes with either loose or over torqued screws.
Remi, first, thank you and great work as always! I had a question for you. In adjusting the scope from your first shot to your second shot you adjust from the center to your first hole. That tracks for me, just like sighting in a compound bow. However, it looked like from your second shot adjusting for your third you went from the second hole and adjusted down toward the bullseye before taking your final shot at 100 yards. Can you clarify that part of the process? Did I see that correctly? Thank you!
Yes he did. He was zeroing his scope for 200 yds. So based on the manufacturer data on the ammo box he read it says if he’s zeroed at 200 yds he’s going to hit about 1.8 inches high at 100 yds When he shot that second shot he was about 4 inches high so he adjusted his cross hairs down to be roughly 1.8 inches high Had he been zeroing his scope for 100 yds he would’ve put the cross hairs right over the hole again like he did after the first shot. Hope that makes sense
Just remember, I don’t know the technical terms of how a scope is built, but it is such that “Up” on the turret is actually bringing the crosshair down, vice-versa, “Down” on the turret is going to bring the crosshair up. That may be confusing you. It’s exactly like sighting a compound.
@@thewoodsmanpirate2670 I know this is a bit later but I'm still confused. I thought the point of aim gets brought to the point of impact for zero'ing? Which he did in his first, but not his second. So, from aiming at center I think he was 4" high and 1" to the left. Agian, from aiming at center, could he have brought his crosshairs 1" to the left and approximately 2" up?
I don’t have a big fancy lead sled like that. I just use pillows and jackets. If anyone has a better home made one let me know I just can’t afford the sled for a while
This instruction is a little confusing. The video shows him adjusting from the point of aim to the POI on first shot and then adjusting from the POI to the point of aim on the second shot. If you have some understanding and experience, you will appreciate the overall general instruction but new players will likely be somewhat confused.
I am new to rifle and I’m definitely confused. Do you have to zero your rifle with all 3 shots at the same distance to get a good grouping? I have watched other channels do it that way. But here, his first shot was at 25 or 50 yards, and then he moved to 100 yards. I don’t know which method to go by now
I’m almost certain I’m not crazy saying this, but on his 3rd shot he adjusted FROM the bullet impact TO the bullseye down and right. Doesn’t it make sense to adjust FROM the bullseye TO the bullet impact up and left???
Just go sight the rifle in whatever distance you need it’s not hard Some people might think 3 shots ok I’m good You need to shoot 3 to 5 shot groups and practice
Use a ballistics calculator like Hornady or Federal and play with it with your bullet, caliber, etc. until you can make it 0 at 200 (or whatever) and see where your bullet should hit at 40 yards. It's fun. You'll see. And may the Lord God bless you.
ANOTHER one who doesn't think too hard. A bullet travelling down a cold barrel behaves differently to travelling down a hot barrel. When you go hunting, the first shot will be a cold barrel, and that's the shot that counts. Therefore when sighting in a scope, fire ONE shot, and wait 3-5 minutes before firing the next one, and so on. It's a waste of time sighting in a hot barrel when you'll be hunting with a cold one. THINK people.
No, it all depends on your caliber, bullet, coefficient, etc. Use a ballistics calculator online such as by Hornady or Federal. May the Lord God bless you.
Incredible irresponsible and piss poor advice. People are going to follow this advice and cripple. Why practice when 3 shots will do. Nice to see you are loyal to a brand you believe in instead of selling to thin highest bidder. Piss poor Sako, heavenly remi vanguard. A man’s word should be a man’s word!!
Three shots? Why waste the third bullet. Two shots and you are done sighting in. Bore sight the rifle, put the cross hairs on the bullseye, take one shot. Move the lead sled to put the cross hairs on the bullseye again. Take a second shot. Chances are the second shot will be either in the first hole or very close. Move the lead sled to put the cross hairs on the bullseye again. Use the turrets to move the cross hairs in between the two bullet holes. Your rifle is now sighted in. No third shot.
Actually, it works pretty good. My gunsmith talked me through it just this past week, I went to the range, it was pretty right on. Been hunting for about 25 years, in my late 60s, had never done it, and it works real good. Wanna' bet a milkshake? :-) Godspeed from Orygun.
Man, this removes a lot of pressure on guys and gals to have that bad habit of not asking questions because theure embarrassed. Well done
I have been going this for almost 50+ years! The new hunters will thank you for this easy job in plan sight in!
See!! This right here is why I follow Remi! The way you explain what you are doing instead of just saying "this is how you do it" is very beneficial to men who are getting into hunting! Thank you Remi Warren for this vid!!
I always appreciate your simple explanation of every hunting/shooting topic you create. You created a similar video in 2019 on Instagram that I still have saved. Good work!
Thank you for posting this video. Really appreciate the straightforward way you explain things and don't try to talk over people's heads. Used this method today on my new rifle and I was sighted in for 200 yards with ease. Thanks!!
Very thorough and helpful to see you do this. Thanks for sharing your way of doing this Remi!
Love your content Remi! Very helpful and informative! Keep up the great work & footage!
This is awesome instruction. Thank you!!!
Same way i do it sir. Good technique and fast.........way better than shooting an entire box of ammo and getting a sore shoulder😊
Hey Remi, I want to share this with you. If you actually zero at 37 yards, that will put you dead on at 200. I do this with all my rifles. What you shown here today I have been doing for 15 plus years. A lot of people told me to f o and told me I was full of it. I am glad seeing someone else showing this. Good luck hunting in 23.
Careful about this; it depends on your bullet, caliber, etc. For my cartridge, .308, etc. it is zero at 28 yards puts me 0 at 200. You must look at a ballistics calculator for your particular situation.
Thank you great instructional video. Regards from Australia.
Excellent explanation, thank you.
I’ll go try this method and see how I do. Thanks for the training.
Excellent. Thank you Remi
It amazes me how few people know this method... it is the BEST way to zero any rifle
Great stuff! 👍
Great video!
Thanks, Remi!
Remi is the man!
Good explanation 👍🏻
Awesome video!
Thanks you for sharing this great information God's Blessings
Best thing I learned was to slow the heck down & not move on to next step until your sure/positive of every step along the way
Oh, and that I gotta get a sled
…we do it w shooter holding gun steady while partner moves crosshairs
Good stuff man
With the price of ammo these days this is a cost effective technique!
Great video and explanation. I'm subscribing and I'm pretty sure I won't be disappointed... but I do have one question, can this be done without a shooting sled?
if you do this on a rope hanging plum with a knot or tape to centre on you can set your scope up at the same time
Thank you
Can you do a video on creating a dope chart?
Gunsmith here. Never trust your final zero without shooting a group of 3 rounds or more to confirm. If you have a gun capable of 1 MOA (1” at 100 yards) for example, a single round could be the edge of the group and the final zero could be up to 1” off or more depending on the actual precision of your rifle.
I know some will argue, but lose the sled. Shooting the rifle with the butt captured in a sled-type rest will almost always have a different POI (point of impact) compared to shooting from the shoulder. Also, a sled-type rest can cause damage to the stock (especially wood stocks) at the grip. An adjustable front rest is fine, but the butt of the rifle should always be against the shoulder. In this video, I can only imagine how uncomfortable it was to shoot around that sled and even then, the rifle butt was still touching the sled which can cause accuracy issues. We test all our rifles from the bench with a solid bipod front support and a sandbag at the rear with the rifle against the shoulder.
Nah, the only reason the accuracy changes from the sled to against a shoulder is because the sled is more still and secure lol..
@@Zer0Edits00 Like I said, some will argue but I have the groups to prove it. We routinely test rifles that produce sub-.300” groups using a bipod or sandbag front and sandbag rear. The rifle must be allowed to recoil naturally for best consistency and accuracy. When you capture the butt of the rifle to prevent recoil, you’re forcing that energy back into the rifle itself. It has to go somewhere.
Nice video, no need to measure center scope to center barrel ?
One wonders how you adjust once you take gun out of sled and shoulder it and which creates different angles the those in sled?
I'd just add, to those not putting scopes on yourself. Save yourself a lot of potential mental stress and wasted money, double check that everything on your rifle is tight! I've seen way too many "new" rifles with loose action screws and store installed scopes with either loose or over torqued screws.
Usually takes me 4i don't see so good any more been sighting in like that for long time it's the easiest way to go
Ffs I walked all my shots in normally. Good vid
How did you get up there? The access from east lake is blocked from new houses. Tell your brother hey.... KT
Remi, first, thank you and great work as always! I had a question for you. In adjusting the scope from your first shot to your second shot you adjust from the center to your first hole. That tracks for me, just like sighting in a compound bow. However, it looked like from your second shot adjusting for your third you went from the second hole and adjusted down toward the bullseye before taking your final shot at 100 yards. Can you clarify that part of the process? Did I see that correctly? Thank you!
Yes he did. He was zeroing his scope for 200 yds. So based on the manufacturer data on the ammo box he read it says if he’s zeroed at 200 yds he’s going to hit about 1.8 inches high at 100 yds
When he shot that second shot he was about 4 inches high so he adjusted his cross hairs down to be roughly 1.8 inches high
Had he been zeroing his scope for 100 yds he would’ve put the cross hairs right over the hole again like he did after the first shot.
Hope that makes sense
Just remember, I don’t know the technical terms of how a scope is built, but it is such that “Up” on the turret is actually bringing the crosshair down, vice-versa, “Down” on the turret is going to bring the crosshair up. That may be confusing you.
It’s exactly like sighting a compound.
@@thewoodsmanpirate2670 I know this is a bit later but I'm still confused. I thought the point of aim gets brought to the point of impact for zero'ing? Which he did in his first, but not his second. So, from aiming at center I think he was 4" high and 1" to the left. Agian, from aiming at center, could he have brought his crosshairs 1" to the left and approximately 2" up?
❤
I don’t have a big fancy lead sled like that. I just use pillows and jackets. If anyone has a better home made one let me know I just can’t afford the sled for a while
This works it a 22lr? Is beacuse that .the Barrel of 22 is tho smal?🤔
I literally just did this in my backyard with a new 308. Almost like TH-cam is watching me👀😅
Aren’t the wind and elevation adjustments opposite when bore sighting?
Watched your video, I have a semi auto 22, with a new scope how would I sight it in?
Nice but what about my rifles that aren't bolt action?
What's the new rifle chambered in? All around rifle? Meant for a specific purpose?
6.5 needmore 😂
What scope are you using on your Sako S20?
What if u don’t have a bolt action rifle
That’s a nice rifle but the weight 😏
This instruction is a little confusing. The video shows him adjusting from the point of aim to the POI on first shot and then adjusting from the POI to the point of aim on the second shot. If you have some understanding and experience, you will appreciate the overall general instruction but new players will likely be somewhat confused.
I am new to rifle and I’m definitely confused. Do you have to zero your rifle with all 3 shots at the same distance to get a good grouping? I have watched other channels do it that way. But here, his first shot was at 25 or 50 yards, and then he moved to 100 yards. I don’t know which method to go by now
Go 1x0 better.
Mount the rifle on the kitchen table, shine a light down the barrle at the wall and 0 in your scope.
I’m almost certain I’m not crazy saying this, but on his 3rd shot he adjusted FROM the bullet impact TO the bullseye down and right. Doesn’t it make sense to adjust FROM the bullseye TO the bullet impact up and left???
Very good questions. I wonder why no one seem to answer your question.
Just go sight the rifle in whatever distance you need it’s not hard Some people might think 3 shots ok I’m good You need to shoot 3 to 5 shot groups and practice
What if i only have 40 yard range, but i wanna be dead on at a 100?
Use a ballistics calculator like Hornady or Federal and play with it with your bullet, caliber, etc. until you can make it 0 at 200 (or whatever) and see where your bullet should hit at 40 yards. It's fun. You'll see. And may the Lord God bless you.
Not everyone (me) has a lead sled to hold the gun perfectly still.
Try shooting prone
Buy one. The plastic ones are very inexpensive.
Very sophisticated but you need a rifle holder like his.
Good practice to do, but it won't work on lever actions, shakyjake out.
ANOTHER one who doesn't think too hard. A bullet travelling down a cold barrel behaves differently to travelling down a hot barrel. When you go hunting, the first shot will be a cold barrel, and that's the shot that counts. Therefore when sighting in a scope, fire ONE shot, and wait 3-5 minutes before firing the next one, and so on. It's a waste of time sighting in a hot barrel when you'll be hunting with a cold one. THINK people.
36 yards is equivalent to 200
No, it all depends on your caliber, bullet, coefficient, etc. Use a ballistics calculator online such as by Hornady or Federal. May the Lord God bless you.
2 shot method is wayyy simpler
Incredible irresponsible and piss poor advice. People are going to follow this advice and cripple. Why practice when 3 shots will do. Nice to see you are loyal to a brand you believe in instead of selling to thin highest bidder. Piss poor Sako, heavenly remi vanguard. A man’s word should be a man’s word!!
Three shots? Why waste the third bullet. Two shots and you are done sighting in. Bore sight the rifle, put the cross hairs on the bullseye, take one shot. Move the lead sled to put the cross hairs on the bullseye again. Take a second shot. Chances are the second shot will be either in the first hole or very close. Move the lead sled to put the cross hairs on the bullseye again. Use the turrets to move the cross hairs in between the two bullet holes. Your rifle is now sighted in. No third shot.
Why would you move the lead sled? Fire first shot, don’t move anything. Adjust cross hairs to center of first shot.
I will bet u money that u can not site your rifle in 3 shots!
And I will take your money. I do this all the time.
Actually, it works pretty good. My gunsmith talked me through it just this past week, I went to the range, it was pretty right on. Been hunting for about 25 years, in my late 60s, had never done it, and it works real good. Wanna' bet a milkshake? :-) Godspeed from Orygun.