Placing the new connector with new wires beside the old connector with the cut off wires you can place a small piece of masking tape on each new wire a couple inches from the ends and write the correct color wire to connect them to on the masking tape and then push the wires thru the rubber door boot and make connections how you prefer. Then you won’t have to search for the correct wires with a multi-meter. Other than that there’s not really any other short cuts. This is a pain in the a** and has happened to everyone I know that has a Jeep Cherokee, especially 1999-2004.
I'm not a smart man but the things I know I've learned from experience and I can tell that you know what you're talking about ... Surprised you don't have more subscribers with quality videos such as this one... Thanks Mark
Hilarious.....lmfao..... how long did that work ???? Hope it doesn't drive anywhere.. wire nuts are for houses. Never should be used in automotive. Not weather proof .
Great video and very helpful. I bought the kit ($125 in Canada from the dealer) and I'm going to do this job as well. Too bad your video is upside down but it's still good info. Also, when you try and focus on something like those wire clip ends, it would have focused much better had you had a background near what you wanted to focus on rather than the camera trying to focus on the ground which was 3 feet away. Regardless, straight forward info that let's us know we can all tackle that job. Thank you!
Thanks for this video. I did the drivers side the same way except I soldered the wires and used shrink tubing. Also I plan to use the extra wires in the kit on the passenger side. You can actually remover the old wires same as you described with a small screw driver.
Excellent video and the best way to repair that problematic area. I went around pricing someone else to do this for me and here's what I found: A 4x4 shop wouldn't touch this project because they just want to bolt on parts. Next, I went to a car audio shop because they work with wires and they accepted the task - for $85 per hour plus parts/supplies, estimated to take about 1 hour to complete. If you think saving yourself the time and effort to order these parts assemble then get it all in and soldered is worth paying about $25 to $40 to have someone else do it, then go ahead. The car audio shop would have clipped the harness close to the door connector, soldered new wire there because it doesn't bend much and then ran the rest into the driver kick panel area and soldered the other end there. Another option - go to a You-Pull-It yard and yank a connector from a junked vehicle cutting wires deep into the kick panel area. That may run you up to $30 but then you're gambling with that harness doing the same...any time after you install it. All will work - key goal with either is to avoid stiff solder joints in the middle there between the door and body of the vehicle. *** Instead of wire-nuts to splice, I would suggest using shrink tubing and soldering the wires together.
I did the audio shop route once but when it failed again I did this thing. The original wiring is inferior to the new pigtail, the conductor had gotten quite brittle, perhaps from "work hardening" phenomenon. I almost had the audio shop which does really good work, install these pigtails. That's right forget getting this part at a yard. I used wire nuts in case I have to repeat this repair and to avoid the hassle of soldering in the confined space. But solder in the position demanded by the pigtail would not be a problem either.
Thanks. I found the connector with all the colored wires attached on ebay for about $12.00 using MOPAR P/N 5013961 Also included a set of in-line crimps. The black wire appeared to be 12 GA.
Just bought a 2001 WJ with a 4.0 Liter. had to deal with broken door wires a week after I bought it. wished I had seen your video first, I had to solder the wires back together. classic black wire problem. change the two larger wire. when it breaks again I will do it your way. except the wire nuts would make me crazy as an industrial Electrician/ Mechanic. But good job.
I'm thinking it could be easy to use colored stickers for the ends of each green wire. You could get white stickers that are rectangular that can be colored with a permanent marker kit to duplicate the colors of the OEM wires. For example marker the sticker for the + wire which is OEM red and white stripe to be red with white stripe on sticker. Put the sticker around the beginning and end of each green wire. The ground can be black electrical tape or blacked out sticker with marker. And so on for each wire color. It could help identify them. Maybe just look at OEM connector and map each wire accordingly without having to test each with a DMM. I like that you use 12AWG on all 10 wires. Would it be fine to use 10AWG primary wire CCA on all 10 pins? I have OFC 12AWG on the way. I've only got 16 and 10 Guage automotive wire spools on hand 100ft of GearIT 16 guage from Amazon and 20ft of HandyPack 10 guage from Rusty's Auto Parts. I need to fix the windows mainly, then I'm rewiring the electric fan adjustable thermostatic switch for engine cooling fan with an override toggle on/off switch inside cabin that's ignition controlled and then wiring up power outlets (PD/USB3.0 & 12V socket)
At 2:30 you said the connectors are the same. I ordered two of the same. The drivers and passengers sides are different. The guides on the connectors are spaced further apart towards the corners on the drivers side. The passengers side is set in about 2mm on each side. I was however able to dremel the guides down and use the connector.
I just completed this repair to my driver door this evening. Based on this video that the gray/black adapters would work either side - I purchased the passenger side kit to repair my driver door. Finding: While it's not exactly plug-n-play right out of the bag, it only took a little modification to make it work. ___________________________ Driver side: If you hold the male end of the harness that is in the Driver door itself with the red lock tab face down, you will notice the oval shape of the main portion of the plug. In addition, however, you will also notice two small plastic ridges approximately 1/8 in height rising straight up off both left and right corners of the male plug....think of how batmans ears rise off the extreme ends of his head, if that's of any help at all? lol To make the passenger plug fit to the driver door, all I had to do was use a utility knife and shave off both of those ridges. That plastic isn't soft so please be very careful. The sharper the blade the better, or if you can sand it off with a machine then even better. That's it. Oh, I used wire nuts as well, taped each one then ziptied them all together; this, because I wanted to be absolutely sure everything worked as it should before soldering later.
Thanks for the video! I've done a solder fix of a couple wires without replacing the harness. Besides the window motor issue, what other electrical systems may be effected by replacing this harness? I don't have a schematic for that harness.
Hi there. Door Locks, Power Mirrors, Interior Light on for door ajar when door is closed. It really messes stuff up because of the computer control of these things (Body Control Module).
I'm hoping I can use safley use 10guage instead of 12AWG for the door wiring to windows? I have high quality 10AWG Primary Wire OFC 20ft . I also have 100ft of 16AWG automotive OFC wire. I prefer to use the 10AWG guage for the doors and electric fan switch
Question: I can put the rear passenger side window down with both the driver control switch or the rear passenger switch and sometimes it won't come up until I open and close the driver side door a couple of times or close it firmly which of course speaks to the loose or broken wire issue in the driver side door boot. But since this can happen when the rear passenger puts the window down and not be able to put it up again until I go through the routine with the driver door ... is it more likely the driver door wiring (because it happens from that location as well) or the rear passenger side door wiring that is the culprit? Or is there more going on than just boot wiring such as some computer module? I hope my explanation of the issue makes sense. EDIT: Just for everyone's knowledge, once I fixed the wiring in the driver door boot, I was able to raise and lower the rear passenger door without issue from both the driver control as well as that passenger window control as well.Thank you!
Mark I have the same problem I fixed the driver side and still won’t go up or down plus it draining my battery so that means I have to do the same thing that u did to the passengers side
I am so confused with the 10 wires all being green. I have no clue how to do the meter. But is there a way to paint the outside of the wire or use colored tape or tape with colored markers to identify each wire. Like Black, Grey+blue, red+yellow, Red, Green, Orange+White. Something along those lines I'm no electrician or mechanic and I'm simply trying to fix my power windows, power mirrors and Power locks on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Man wish I knew professionals like this in Aurora Missouri
Why this video was at first inverted by YOU TUBE now inverted and reversed - I don't know. If anybody knows how to fix this I'd appreciate it. I don't have to original anymore.
I have used a very small flat blade screwdriver from the wire side to press down the small tang that locks the terminal to the plastic connector - pressing down on the tang and pulling the wire at the same time. When placing the terminal back in (new or old) pull that tang up a little so that it will automatically re-engage and lock the wire in place.
the part number you gave does not seem to match a 2003 grand Cherokee - do you have a better picture of the plug? I am having a tough time finding the right part
The job would have gone faster if you labeled the wires with masking tape or something like that before you installed it. Wire nuts are for house wiring.
Pulling those wires through the boot with labels probably would mess the labels up. In the video I mention I'll take heat for using wire nuts but they have worked well to this moment and are easy to deal with.
I got them on Ebay but they are not always available there. Amazon has one for about $60 and another for about $50. The only difference is color so two of the cheaper ones would work. Mopar sites are about the same price. For eBay set up a email notification search for both part numbers. If you need them right away Amazon is it.
Your prediction has so far failed. Even if one loosens it is trival to repair. In the video I mention I may catch some heat for wire nuts but "should not give advice" - a little heavy on hyperbole, don't you think?
Man you can talk.. just put it together already!! You make it more confusing with all the talking.. this could have been a 10 min vid.. sorry just extremely annoying... God bless..
Placing the new connector with new wires beside the old connector with the cut off wires you can place a small piece of masking tape on each new wire a couple inches from the ends and write the correct color wire to connect them to on the masking tape and then push the wires thru the rubber door boot and make connections how you prefer. Then you won’t have to search for the correct wires with a multi-meter. Other than that there’s not really any other short cuts. This is a pain in the a** and has happened to everyone I know that has a Jeep Cherokee, especially 1999-2004.
A great video. Impossible that anyone walking away from watching this video, would walk away misinformed or uninformed.
I'm not a smart man but the things I know I've learned from experience and I can tell that you know what you're talking about ... Surprised you don't have more subscribers with quality videos such as this one... Thanks Mark
Thanks for the kind words!
Hilarious.....lmfao..... how long did that work ???? Hope it doesn't drive anywhere.. wire nuts are for houses. Never should be used in automotive. Not weather proof .
Getting ready to tackle this project. Your video was really helpful. Thank you
Great video and very helpful. I bought the kit ($125 in Canada from the dealer) and I'm going to do this job as well. Too bad your video is upside down but it's still good info. Also, when you try and focus on something like those wire clip ends, it would have focused much better had you had a background near what you wanted to focus on rather than the camera trying to focus on the ground which was 3 feet away. Regardless, straight forward info that let's us know we can all tackle that job. Thank you!
Thank you for the video, just did my 2004 Cherokee today, GREAT help 👍👍👍
Thanks for this video. I did the drivers side the same way except I soldered the wires and used shrink tubing. Also I plan to use the extra wires in the kit on the passenger side. You can actually remover the old wires same as you described with a small screw driver.
Excellent video and the best way to repair that problematic area.
I went around pricing someone else to do this for me and here's what I found:
A 4x4 shop wouldn't touch this project because they just want to bolt on parts.
Next, I went to a car audio shop because they work with wires and they accepted the task - for $85 per hour plus parts/supplies, estimated to take about 1 hour to complete.
If you think saving yourself the time and effort to order these parts assemble then get it all in and soldered is worth paying about $25 to $40 to have someone else do it, then go ahead. The car audio shop would have clipped the harness close to the door connector, soldered new wire there because it doesn't bend much and then ran the rest into the driver kick panel area and soldered the other end there.
Another option - go to a You-Pull-It yard and yank a connector from a junked vehicle cutting wires deep into the kick panel area. That may run you up to $30 but then you're gambling with that harness doing the same...any time after you install it.
All will work - key goal with either is to avoid stiff solder joints in the middle there between the door and body of the vehicle.
*** Instead of wire-nuts to splice, I would suggest using shrink tubing and soldering the wires together.
you are amazing mark.. all the luck .. regards from baghdad
Great video. I've got to do this for my 99 XJ
Phenomenal detail! Thank you very much, I will attempt to do this on my 2003 grand Cherokee’s driver side door.
Amazing work! You saved me thanks!
Very glad to hear that!
Awesome work brother thank you!!!
I did the audio shop route once but when it failed again I did this thing. The original wiring is inferior to the new pigtail, the conductor had gotten quite brittle, perhaps from "work hardening" phenomenon. I almost had the audio shop which does really good work, install these pigtails. That's right forget getting this part at a yard. I used wire nuts in case I have to repeat this repair and to avoid the hassle of soldering in the confined space. But solder in the position demanded by the pigtail would not be a problem either.
Thankyou for showing how to take the connector off!!!...💯
Thanks, great detail!
Yes, you are fully committed at this point
I think I got it, great video.
Thanks. I found the connector with all the colored wires attached on ebay for about $12.00
using MOPAR P/N 5013961 Also included a set of in-line crimps.
The black wire appeared to be 12 GA.
THANK YOU !!!!!🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
Just bought a 2001 WJ with a 4.0 Liter. had to deal with broken door wires a week after I bought it. wished I had seen your video first, I had to solder the wires back together. classic black wire problem. change the two larger wire. when it breaks again I will do it your way. except the wire nuts would make me crazy as an industrial Electrician/ Mechanic. But good job.
Thanks Michael.
Great job thanks
I'm thinking it could be easy to use colored stickers for the ends of each green wire.
You could get white stickers that are rectangular that can be colored with a permanent marker kit to duplicate the colors of the OEM wires.
For example marker the sticker for the + wire which is OEM red and white stripe to be red with white stripe on sticker. Put the sticker around the beginning and end of each green wire.
The ground can be black electrical tape or blacked out sticker with marker. And so on for each wire color.
It could help identify them. Maybe just look at OEM connector and map each wire accordingly without having to test each with a DMM.
I like that you use 12AWG on all 10 wires.
Would it be fine to use 10AWG primary wire CCA on all 10 pins? I have OFC 12AWG on the way.
I've only got 16 and 10 Guage automotive wire spools on hand
100ft of GearIT 16 guage from Amazon and 20ft of HandyPack 10 guage from Rusty's Auto Parts.
I need to fix the windows mainly, then I'm rewiring the electric fan adjustable thermostatic switch for engine cooling fan with an override toggle on/off switch inside cabin that's ignition controlled and then wiring up power outlets (PD/USB3.0 & 12V socket)
At 2:30 you said the connectors are the same. I ordered two of the same. The drivers and passengers sides are different. The guides on the connectors are spaced further apart towards the corners on the drivers side. The passengers side is set in about 2mm on each side.
I was however able to dremel the guides down and use the connector.
Thank you
I just completed this repair to my driver door this evening. Based on this video that the gray/black adapters would work either side - I purchased the passenger side kit to repair my driver door.
Finding: While it's not exactly plug-n-play right out of the bag, it only took a little modification to make it work.
___________________________
Driver side: If you hold the male end of the harness that is in the Driver door itself with the red lock tab face down, you will notice the oval shape of the main portion of the plug. In addition, however, you will also notice two small plastic ridges approximately 1/8 in height rising straight up off both left and right corners of the male plug....think of how batmans ears rise off the extreme ends of his head, if that's of any help at all? lol
To make the passenger plug fit to the driver door, all I had to do was use a utility knife and shave off both of those ridges. That plastic isn't soft so please be very careful. The sharper the blade the better, or if you can sand it off with a machine then even better. That's it. Oh, I used wire nuts as well, taped each one then ziptied them all together; this, because I wanted to be absolutely sure everything worked as it should before soldering later.
Very glad it worked. Another successful fix of Jeep deficient wiring.
You sir just saved me a shit load
Thanks for the video! I've done a solder fix of a couple wires without replacing the harness. Besides the window motor issue, what other electrical systems may be effected by replacing this harness? I don't have a schematic for that harness.
Hi there. Door Locks, Power Mirrors, Interior Light on for door ajar when door is closed. It really messes stuff up because of the computer control of these things (Body Control Module).
I'm hoping I can use safley use 10guage instead of 12AWG for the door wiring to windows?
I have high quality 10AWG Primary Wire OFC 20ft . I also have 100ft of 16AWG automotive OFC wire.
I prefer to use the 10AWG guage for the doors and electric fan switch
Question: I can put the rear passenger side window down with both the driver control switch or the rear passenger switch and sometimes it won't come up until I open and close the driver side door a couple of times or close it firmly which of course speaks to the loose or broken wire issue in the driver side door boot. But since this can happen when the rear passenger puts the window down and not be able to put it up again until I go through the routine with the driver door ... is it more likely the driver door wiring (because it happens from that location as well) or the rear passenger side door wiring that is the culprit? Or is there more going on than just boot wiring such as some computer module? I hope my explanation of the issue makes sense.
EDIT: Just for everyone's knowledge, once I fixed the wiring in the driver door boot, I was able to raise and lower the rear passenger door without issue from both the driver control as well as that passenger window control as well.Thank you!
HOW IN THE WORLD..... do you take off the blue piece on the inside of the connection is what I wanna know.
Mark I have the same problem I fixed the driver side and still won’t go up or down plus it draining my battery so that means I have to do the same thing that u did to the passengers side
I am so confused with the 10 wires all being green. I have no clue how to do the meter.
But is there a way to paint the outside of the wire or use colored tape or tape with colored markers to identify each wire.
Like Black, Grey+blue, red+yellow, Red, Green, Orange+White.
Something along those lines
I'm no electrician or mechanic and I'm simply trying to fix my power windows, power mirrors and Power locks on my
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
Man wish I knew professionals like this in Aurora Missouri
Why this video was at first inverted by YOU TUBE now inverted and reversed - I don't know. If anybody knows how to fix this I'd appreciate it. I don't have to original anymore.
Do you have any details on how to remove the pins from that harness? I have the pin removal tool, but can't remove them.
I have used a very small flat blade screwdriver from the wire side to press down the small tang that locks the terminal to the plastic connector - pressing down on the tang and pulling the wire at the same time. When placing the terminal back in (new or old) pull that tang up a little so that it will automatically re-engage and lock the wire in place.
the part number you gave does not seem to match a 2003 grand Cherokee - do you have a better picture of the plug? I am having a tough time finding the right part
th-cam.com/video/XpOjTyJ23vM/w-d-xo.html See this video. Front doors only.
The job would have gone faster if you labeled the wires with masking tape or something like that before you installed it. Wire nuts are for house wiring.
Pulling those wires through the boot with labels probably would mess the labels up. In the video I mention I'll take heat for using wire nuts but they have worked well to this moment and are easy to deal with.
How do you get the plug apart to put wires in it. ?
you just push the wire connector into the plastic body and it will snap into place.
Hi. Where did u find? I do not see on ebay. Please help.
I got them on Ebay but they are not always available there. Amazon has one for about $60 and another for about $50. The only difference is color so two of the cheaper ones would work. Mopar sites are about the same price. For eBay set up a email notification search for both part numbers. If you need them right away Amazon is it.
It is best not to soldier automotive wire, it makes the copper brittle. closed-ended crimp connectors would be a better choice than wire nuts.
Great detail, however everything for me is reversed. and in some situations upside down.
wire nut will come undone unless maybe you sauder the wires in
Taped and zip tied they have worked fine for me though.
Wouldn't it be as easy to use heatshrink soldering butt connectors instead of wire nuts.
Captain get on with it.
WIRE NUTS??? You were doing great until you hacked it with those.
5013962 or 5013961
Either one works for either side. Color is difference in PN.
3:00 Why is everything upside down? WTF? Is this your video?
It went upside down on You Tube and I don't know how to fix it.
@@markdavidstrode4 th-cam.com/video/ped23nTP0Tw/w-d-xo.html
Wire nuts in mobile applications is not to be done. That's the most ridiculous thing I've seen.
You sir should not give advice
Your prediction has so far failed. Even if one loosens it is trival to repair. In the video I mention I may catch some heat for wire nuts but "should not give advice" - a little heavy on hyperbole, don't you think?
Lol they hold up pretty good tho I use them all the time for quick repairs when d.o.t. officers put trucks out of service for no lights!
Mute
Watched and thought you knew what you were doing until the wire nuts came out...lol never ever.
I didn't think you were serious about the wire nuts. I'll have to pass on this video. thanks anyways.
Man you can talk.. just put it together already!! You make it more confusing with all the talking.. this could have been a 10 min vid.. sorry just extremely annoying...
God bless..
Thank you