There's a rewiring guide on Jeep forums but a guy on those forums. They all have the WJ's. He said there's 5 different sizes of wires and the replacement wiring harness with connectors are expensive, short stalk and just break again 4-9 months down the road. What he did was buy OFC(oxygen free copper) wires that where 10awg in a big roll. He removed the connector going from inside seal to dash going from door jam and ran it to inside door around 3" inside and just had the connectors not in door jam on door side. You need the electric wire terminal pin/pik tools that are like $10-$30 on Amazon or part stores. They are used to remove brass/copper looking terminal pins that go into the connector and you can take wires out or you can just run wires from inside door to inside cab with no connectors. You are using stronger thicker wires all 10 gauge which won't break for many years, and this way there's no but connectors in between door jam where wires bend. You can use a multimeter and use continuity setting and follow the wires to where they go and check voltage of the different wires. It's fairly easy to do if you do them one at a time. Just follow red+white stripe wire inside under dash to the same color wire inside door and use self soldering but connectors so you don't have to use a soldering iron just a heat shrink blower which are $10 on Amazon and shrink the tubing over the wires to support it further. It's waterproof and solders the wires together with a strong waterproof seal around it. The wires should come out of door far enough to connect it to the longer 10guage wire, you can have one color wire for all of them and use finger nail polish or a cheap paint kit to match your green wires to the color wire in middle for identification or use masking tape with a marker set. This makes it so the wires are solid from inside door to inside dash with no butt connection in door jam to severe again. The wires that already go in between doors from door you keep out till you connect them all one by one then stuff them inside door with the extra long wires you connected. The wires in dash you remove the plug connector and wire through hole to under dash and you can see very well under steering wheel. Just zip tie them up high afterwards.
@@CameronDC-Grimes I did this a rather long time ago. No issues with the last repair. My experience with the design is the wire was too stiff from the factory. Although good for tensile strength, the wires were not designed to take fatigue from bending. Longer wires would definitely reduce fatigue and it was partially what I fixed with the last splice.
The white piece has two tabs you pinch towards each other to get it out of the hole. The harness is inside the door. I can't remember exactly how the harness plug came apart. Most have a lock you have to slide open. If not it will have a tab you pry up. Sorry I can't remember.
After rewatching the video there is a red slider you have to pull back from center perpendicular to the plug alignment. Once you do that the plug should pull free. If I remember though it was still pretty tight.
There's a rewiring guide on Jeep forums but a guy on those forums. They all have the WJ's.
He said there's 5 different sizes of wires and the replacement wiring harness with connectors are expensive, short stalk and just break again 4-9 months down the road.
What he did was buy OFC(oxygen free copper) wires that where 10awg in a big roll. He removed the connector going from inside seal to dash going from door jam and ran it to inside door around 3" inside and just had the connectors not in door jam on door side.
You need the electric wire terminal pin/pik tools that are like $10-$30 on Amazon or part stores. They are used to remove brass/copper looking terminal pins that go into the connector and you can take wires out or you can just run wires from inside door to inside cab with no connectors.
You are using stronger thicker wires all 10 gauge which won't break for many years, and this way there's no but connectors in between door jam where wires bend.
You can use a multimeter and use continuity setting and follow the wires to where they go and check voltage of the different wires. It's fairly easy to do if you do them one at a time. Just follow red+white stripe wire inside under dash to the same color wire inside door and use self soldering but connectors so you don't have to use a soldering iron just a heat shrink blower which are $10 on Amazon and shrink the tubing over the wires to support it further. It's waterproof and solders the wires together with a strong waterproof seal around it.
The wires should come out of door far enough to connect it to the longer 10guage wire, you can have one color wire for all of them and use finger nail polish or a cheap paint kit to match your green wires to the color wire in middle for identification or use masking tape with a marker set.
This makes it so the wires are solid from inside door to inside dash with no butt connection in door jam to severe again.
The wires that already go in between doors from door you keep out till you connect them all one by one then stuff them inside door with the extra long wires you connected.
The wires in dash you remove the plug connector and wire through hole to under dash and you can see very well under steering wheel. Just zip tie them up high afterwards.
@@CameronDC-Grimes I did this a rather long time ago. No issues with the last repair. My experience with the design is the wire was too stiff from the factory. Although good for tensile strength, the wires were not designed to take fatigue from bending. Longer wires would definitely reduce fatigue and it was partially what I fixed with the last splice.
How do you get the dam thing unplugged
The white piece has two tabs you pinch towards each other to get it out of the hole. The harness is inside the door. I can't remember exactly how the harness plug came apart. Most have a lock you have to slide open. If not it will have a tab you pry up. Sorry I can't remember.
After rewatching the video there is a red slider you have to pull back from center perpendicular to the plug alignment. Once you do that the plug should pull free. If I remember though it was still pretty tight.
Was this draining your battery?
No.
It did on one occasion cause the internal lights to stay on, so I guess you could say it could be a cause.
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