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Good!

WOw, I have a 5cfm of about the same pump that runs great and has zero vacuum, guess I need to check the coupler because it doesn't make any sound as if the pump is even turning. Great, thanks.

To short 🤔

Great detail, however everything for me is reversed. and in some situations upside down.

Tank you for this video. I have a K45 I got free and wanted to take apart and degrease, I did it!!! But, I see one weight is off the governor and I put back on but it came off again . Do I need to replace whole governor part? 😮

Where can I buy this bulb?

That is tall and dangerous. I can’t imagine getting stuck in that underwater.

Phenomenal detail! Thank you very much, I will attempt to do this on my 2003 grand Cherokee’s driver side door.

Thankyou for showing how to take the connector off!!!...💯

Yes, you are fully committed at this point

Hi, I know this an old video. I was trying to get some information on my 390 meter thats how I found your video. A question are the leads original or modified, all the ones I seen have the uctype connector. Thanks Oh I just saw yours is a 390-2, my guess is the upgraded version. The internals are identical.

Thanks, great detail!

Thanks. I found the connector with all the colored wires attached on ebay for about $12.00 using MOPAR P/N 5013961 Also included a set of in-line crimps. The black wire appeared to be 12 GA.

I am nauseous and dizzy because of your camera work..

Great job thanks

Getting ready to tackle this project. Your video was really helpful. Thank you

Great fans! Does the Zephair have a oil hole to oil it? Or do you have to take it apart?

Awesome work brother thank you!!!

Wouldn't it be as easy to use heatshrink soldering butt connectors instead of wire nuts.

I'm hoping I can use safley use 10guage instead of 12AWG for the door wiring to windows? I have high quality 10AWG Primary Wire OFC 20ft . I also have 100ft of 16AWG automotive OFC wire. I prefer to use the 10AWG guage for the doors and electric fan switch

I'm thinking it could be easy to use colored stickers for the ends of each green wire. You could get white stickers that are rectangular that can be colored with a permanent marker kit to duplicate the colors of the OEM wires. For example marker the sticker for the + wire which is OEM red and white stripe to be red with white stripe on sticker. Put the sticker around the beginning and end of each green wire. The ground can be black electrical tape or blacked out sticker with marker. And so on for each wire color. It could help identify them. Maybe just look at OEM connector and map each wire accordingly without having to test each with a DMM. I like that you use 12AWG on all 10 wires. Would it be fine to use 10AWG primary wire CCA on all 10 pins? I have OFC 12AWG on the way. I've only got 16 and 10 Guage automotive wire spools on hand 100ft of GearIT 16 guage from Amazon and 20ft of HandyPack 10 guage from Rusty's Auto Parts. I need to fix the windows mainly, then I'm rewiring the electric fan adjustable thermostatic switch for engine cooling fan with an override toggle on/off switch inside cabin that's ignition controlled and then wiring up power outlets (PD/USB3.0 & 12V socket)

I didn't think you were serious about the wire nuts. I'll have to pass on this video. thanks anyways.

Very informative! Would you know if Press 25 and No. 5 bulbs have the same base as M3 bulbs?

Have you ever tried upgrading the speed control to the solid state type?

I am so confused with the 10 wires all being green. I have no clue how to do the meter. But is there a way to paint the outside of the wire or use colored tape or tape with colored markers to identify each wire. Like Black, Grey+blue, red+yellow, Red, Green, Orange+White. Something along those lines I'm no electrician or mechanic and I'm simply trying to fix my power windows, power mirrors and Power locks on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Man wish I knew professionals like this in Aurora Missouri

WIRE NUTS??? You were doing great until you hacked it with those.

Just bought one of these today $35. Cords been cut, but I'm hopeful it works. All switches and knobs intact. Turns freely.

How do you get the plug apart to put wires in it. ?

Very happy to have finally found an explanation of the old speed control mechanism. But I so wish you would invest in a small, cheap tripod, because the constant jiggling is very distracting. But thank you.

What kind of screen protector magnifier is that on the back of your camera?

Thank you very much for this very nice video. Do you have the instruction manual? I bought this meter without testing cables so I have to make the cable set. It looks like the cable from the basement sump pump may work.

I have a n FPE panel as well. My power is arial so it comes in from the top. The only location available for a 30A breaker (I have a 30A genny) is at the bottom of the panel. Do I need to rearrange my breakers or do you think it's possible to fabricate an interlock? I realize without a picture this is a difficult question but you sound quite intelligent and hoped you might be able to visualize my question. I've asked this on other YT and forums and I immediately get told to replace my FPE panel and the thread goes off on a tangent. :/ Really really nice work there. I have a metal fabricator just down the road so I'm hoping if I can come up with a mock-up that they could create the plate (interlock) for me. In your setup, did you trim the bolts at all or is there little risk that they'll come into contact with any wires?

hi mark, I just recently acquired a K45 mixer and it is only running at high speed no matter what setting its at. any tips on how to fix this?

Are the AG1 lightbulbs a one tie use?

Which wires would i touch to make the motor run...test if that's my problem?

I think I got it, great video.

Question: I can put the rear passenger side window down with both the driver control switch or the rear passenger switch and sometimes it won't come up until I open and close the driver side door a couple of times or close it firmly which of course speaks to the loose or broken wire issue in the driver side door boot. But since this can happen when the rear passenger puts the window down and not be able to put it up again until I go through the routine with the driver door ... is it more likely the driver door wiring (because it happens from that location as well) or the rear passenger side door wiring that is the culprit? Or is there more going on than just boot wiring such as some computer module? I hope my explanation of the issue makes sense. EDIT: Just for everyone's knowledge, once I fixed the wiring in the driver door boot, I was able to raise and lower the rear passenger door without issue from both the driver control as well as that passenger window control as well.Thank you!

Great video and very helpful. I bought the kit ($125 in Canada from the dealer) and I'm going to do this job as well. Too bad your video is upside down but it's still good info. Also, when you try and focus on something like those wire clip ends, it would have focused much better had you had a background near what you wanted to focus on rather than the camera trying to focus on the ground which was 3 feet away. Regardless, straight forward info that let's us know we can all tackle that job. Thank you!

Thank you for the video, just did my 2004 Cherokee today, GREAT help 👍👍👍

Would you happen to know how they come apart ? I just got the Black Drivers side connector and wires, but the blue inside part had been sqeezed shut and I don't know how to open it so I can install the wires.

Would a Hunter Century C-16 be much different electricly? Trying to clean up one from pre 1946. It works good but its missing the screw for the oscillating and the screw that holds the bullet cap of the head on is bent. The power cord to has electrical tape all over it and the head wire is frayed in several places. Was my Grandfathers,then my Dad's, and now its mine so I want to clean the internals and repaint the outer shell and make proper repairs.thanks for any info,great video!

Excuse me, can you tell me what capacity is the diode that is covered with the brown paper? And what is this diode for, in its diagram it appears as a capaitor. I will appreciate your response. Thank you

good evening. Can you tell me the capacity of the fuse that this k5 mixer uses? I will be grateful

I have a Hunter Century c16. Third generation owner. Always thought it was a cool fan. It works but it needs some work,power cord has seen better days. We use it every day but the cord and polished and lubrication and it would be as good as new. Any ideas on where to get parts or who restores these? Any info would be appreciated, thanks for the video,not much out there on these.

Stablok breaker boxes are identical

I figured it out! Yay! My old Hobart is back in mixing business! Thanks for all your helpful videos and insight into these wonderful pieces of machinery! 👍🏽

Hay mark i was turning the speed control screw in rear the bottom and the screw came out and I heard a snap a little washer came out and I can't figure out how to get it back in place?

It is best not to soldier automotive wire, it makes the copper brittle. closed-ended crimp connectors would be a better choice than wire nuts.

I recently got a K5-A anthe T bar has some sort of cover. Or some of them just made that way?

You can use genuine Whirlpool mixer grease but that model year wasn't produced by Whirlpool!