Thank you this video. I was going crazy with my meter trying to find the burned out fuse or short. Once I say your video it took me 20 minutes to add a new butt splice and an extra length of wire to fix the broken ground wire. Now my windows on the passenger side work again and so does my key fob. Thanks again.
If you attempt to do a splice in the middle of the flexing part of the harness you will continue to have faults. You absolutely must replace the wire from the terminal in the connector clear into the door. That white thing is a connector and the pins (terminals) are easy to pull out. If that is done the repair will last a long time. The reason the ground wire breaks is because it is one of the larger gauge wires. I am a tech for a Mopar dealership. I have seen this before. This is a common problem on any car that has a large amount of wires going into the door.
Obviously, I have not watched this video yet. Giving you a shout out anyway, because you took this on. Chrysler vehicles are known for electrical gremlins. I work on this kind of thing too, but only for my cars. I don't think I would have had the guts to do this one. Nice job! ❤ EDIT: Watched the video. Even more impressed.
Yup. Better to pull wire through the connector by drilling a hole thru assembly. Check out amperage going thru wires and use appropriate gauge and be sure there isn’t any temp elevation. Temperature is major cause of insulation turning brittle. Splice inside the door and passenger compartment where flexing will not occur. The repair will take much or time but definitely a lasting one.
I am a retired electronics technologist. Somewhere around 1999, something fried the brains of electrical engineers. They dont care about wire gauges, flexibility, temperature, proximetry of noise sources, magnetic influence, RF radiation or pickup, inductive kick, filtering, stress and corrosion failures of connectors, and how someone is supposed to repair this crap they throw together. Single point grounding was supposed to prevent thkngs like lightning damage. Unfortunately, they never looked at the big picture and never saw the way stuff loops back. Without hands-on experience repairing or installing anything, they have no concept of standard practices of design and do something to shoot themselves in the foot. I would like to write a book about the stupid things engineers I have worked with have done. Congrats on your discovery. I will retrofit the POS Jeep I had to accept to pay me back for a debt. Thanks.
I seen a fix on the Jeep Forum and that guy used all 12 guage green wire. Probably best to get multiple colors, at least 10. He stated the manufacturer used 5 different Guages ranging from 12-22 and crap wire materials causing issues with door harness wires. He added about a foot of wire, took out the cab connector and connected each wire via butt connectors that have heat shrink solder and covered them with heat shrink tubing. Then he took that extra wire with the butt connected ends and tucked all of it in the cab through the door harness connector &boot so the new thicker wires are solid and higher quality where the bend point is. He zip tied them to existing wires under steering wheel inside the paneling. Said it's lasted many years with no signs of drying, cracking or obvious wear. I haven't done this myself but honestly need to redo all the wires in the doors since my windows don't roll down, the driver power lock doesn't work but all other door locks are functioning with key fob. The power lock switch on door doesn't work on any door, the power mirrors don't work. The above reading light would turn on when the speedometer brightness dial was on any setting but off but fixed itself. I really need my windows to work.
Good Video. I've had that happen now, & also a few yrs back. Gonna spice it this time with a Coiled Wire ,, even if I coil the added splice wire myself ,, I feel the coil will take the stess off the Jeep wire 😎
Thanks for the video this is exactly what happened to me. The only thing I'm disappointed about is you didn't show how the be-Jesus you got the rubber boot back on the bracket!!
Also Chrysler from 1960-62 used a High Voltage in the Dash Lighting Circutry " 100+ Volts ", It's Electrolumanesent Illumination in the Cluster, Radio and Clock, I got Shocked big time on the Radio!
Well there is an aftermarket wiring harness available with longer, stronger wires to correct this problem. Lots of soldering and heat shrinking involved though. Thanks.
Looks like the insulation on the wires has lost the plasticizer. Temperature gradients and age tend to bake plasticizers. Same gremlins on turn-of-the-century Mitsubishis. And I wholeheartedly agree about troubleshooting my own car.
I never could get my FOB to work on my 2001 Dakota, Never checked for broken wires in the Door Boot, Never had no issues with anything else, Ended up just having a new Viper Alarm with Remote Start and Keyless entry installed, For way cheaper than Dodge wanted for a new BCM, That they say was bad, My " Rolling " door locks still work!, I love Chrysler Vehicles!, My Stepdad worked for them, But Wiring has always been there downfall, Esp. 1973 and before!, They used to run the main + from the Alternator all the way to the Ampmeter in the Dash!, Caused Fires and no charge issues if the gauge burned out, Also ran the High Amp Blower Motor Circut right through the Ignition Switch, In 1974 they changed this and more
J, how about and alternate of: when you open the door, just don't open it more than enough than it takes for you to get in the Jeep? That way you get a lot more wear on the fix! Only open it a pinch!
I'm having the same issue right now plus my interior lights won't go off unless I manually shut them off with the knob. I also just replaced my oil sending unit lol. I was watching that oil pressure after you started it, I was thinking I know what that needs...
I've repaired quite a few, so i do understand your pain/annoyance. If the earth breaks, you might get away with a floppy braided wire with eyelets, door to chassis. (like you said). For the wires in the gator, i add a length of wire to each one. It pushes the joins into the door and body. Quality multimeter leads could be floppy enough to not break in the gator. Sorry im waffling again :-(
My wife loves her jeep but I'm always having problems with stuff like this I wonder if you sever the Wire in side and add heat shrink tube all the way down form in side to each wire to the plug if that may be a good fix😅
Try marine grade silicone insulated wire. The strands are tinned and much finer and resilient to fatigue. The silicone insulation will not harden. Wire is available on-line In 5 spools 10 ft each of different color.
I've had them break without the insulation separating, giving the illusion they're intact. Look for sharp bend points in the wires. If you see them, those wires are broke for sure. Also feel them and gently pull going up and down the wire. Any soft spot is a break.
This happened to me 4x on driver side. When my door wont lock and windows wont roll I already know. I have my WJ for 20 years, repaired 5 broken off wires. Just did 2 yesterday. Its a WJ thing.
honestly i am about ready to say forget the harness all together solder silicone insulated wires to the end of all these wires that get shut in the door (since they wont become brittle but be careful as they are easy to cut/tear) then, either wrap in elec tape or heat shrink them all together with some 3:1 marine grade with the adhesive inside
the idea is good but wrapping or heat shrinking would put more stretch on the external wires of the arc because of the bigger radius bending with those with smaller radiuses.
Mouser or Digikey might have wire the correct size but with more strands. It would be more flexible and should last longer. You also could use 2 smaller wires in series if there is room in that rubber boot.
My problem just started today and just watch the video I noticed lately the passenger side door was not blocking the vehicle now it has stopped can't open the back tailgate how do I open I do manually no keypad
everything dies because the yellow wire is for the can network, black is ground, red is orange is B+, but the yellow wire breaks it takes out all you mentioned and the a/c in my wife's 03
Remove the harness and replace the crap wires with silicone 16-14 Ga tin coated copper fine stranded wire and heat shrink. This type of wire will never crack if done right. The Jungle website sells a ton of this type of wire.
What's even worse is that much of the jackets on newer wiring harnesses are made from soy byproducts, so rodents find them particularly tasty. Its best not to live where mice and rats are with a newer car. I know folks who have replaced wiring in their engine bays a couple times a year due to rodents finding their wiring tasty.
@@JordanPier OK, how about using something on the order of braided something like solder braid, only maybe a bit larger in size and use some flexible cloth tubing over it. Or, maybe 2 - 3 pieces of solder braid covered with some of the cloth tubing like you use to see in old radios. Just another thought.
I also have the 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm having ( NOW ) 2 issues. with a strong Battery and a 1/2 tank of fuel my motor will stall out. It won't show any Code faults on an OBD Reader !. If I let it sit for a couple of hours it will start back up... NOW, today I have lost control of the Power Windows, and all the other features in the Driver's door panel. The really sad part is I can no longer rely on the Vehicle being reliable.
You've lost a ground somewhere,.or have an intermittent break. They are the worst. Without test instrumentation and probes you're spinning your wheels.
I have an ‘09 Town and Country that has a weird problem I’ve never been able to fix.,The instrument panel kills the battery if I let the car set unused for a few days.? I see the odometer flash on from time to time when everything is off. I brought it to a local garage and they traced this parasitic draw to the instrument panel. I drive with hand controls since I’m wheelchair bound and they didn’t want to take the hand controls out to gain access to the instrument panel. They suggested that I install a switch to cut off drain from the battery if it’s going to sit for a few days. I did this but it’s a real pain. I’d like to get it fixed right. Too bad it’s beyond the scope of my knowledge.
I used to. I have sciatica and joint problems which largely make working on my cars a pain (literally) - I've more or less restricted car repairs to stuff that doesn't require me to be on my back or lift heavy things.
Best practice for broken door wires is to replace several inches / cm, preferably with a new crimped terminal at the connector at one end, and an inline crimp "butt" connector well away from the flex area. The splices should be some distance from the flex area. The connector terminals are often available either at a dealership with a pigtail attached or sometimes bare at digikey / mouser. Most bare automotive terminals require "open barrel" crimping dies. Often, single wires with attached terminals can be salvaged from a harness from elsewhere on a scrap vehicle that are not at flex points. So far as door harnesses stopping heater controls, this is often due to interruption or shorting out of a data bus and can sometimes stop much more. The biggest danger is a short to battery + power. Many control units are well protected against shorts to ground on a data bus but seldom for a short to 12v +.
Yeah, when it first happened to me while driving I about shat a brick. Threw it in neutral and shut it off. Coasted to a spot off the road and had fam bring tools and my oil pressure gauge. Was 40 something at idle and there was oil in the crankcase so I concluded it was ok to drive. Traced out some continuity problems with that harness and didn't bother after that. You can bet I check that oil level weekly tho.
You wouldn't happen to know the gauge of the wire would you?. I want to crimp my ground wire to fix it temporarily in the winter than in spring do a better hopefully more permanent fix.
So basically the wires are getting pinched in the door frame and if you have an alarm and the doors do not indicate that they are properly closed it will keep setting off your alarm which will pizz you and your neighbors off Lol
Mine's the biggest piece of shit vehicle I've ever owned. I fucking hate it. Every time I fix something about one week or two weeks later something else goes wrong. It's the biggest piece of garbage I've ever owned
@@mr_trd21district43 if you pull the boot away from the door side you'll see two flat tabs, one at the top and the other at the bottom. They have to be pulled towards the center to get the connector enough out of the door to apply the rubber boot around the edge. Once the rubber boot is in place then push the connector back into the door until you feel it click in it it won't pull out anymore.
Thank you this video. I was going crazy with my meter trying to find the burned out fuse or short. Once I say your video it took me 20 minutes to add a new butt splice and an extra length of wire to fix the broken ground wire. Now my windows on the passenger side work again and so does my key fob. Thanks again.
Appreciate the video. We had similar symptoms and your video led us straight to the problem...broken black wire in passenger door. Thanks!
If you attempt to do a splice in the middle of the flexing part of the harness you will continue to have faults. You absolutely must replace the wire from the terminal in the connector clear into the door. That white thing is a connector and the pins (terminals) are easy to pull out. If that is done the repair will last a long time. The reason the ground wire breaks is because it is one of the larger gauge wires. I am a tech for a Mopar dealership. I have seen this before. This is a common problem on any car that has a large amount of wires going into the door.
I had No mirror Heat, Adj,Windows Passengers side. 🤷♂️ Big orange W/WHITE STRIPE was the Culprit. 👍👀
No KEY FOB EITHER
I can’t thank you enough! You just saved us a lot of time troubleshooting. That was exactly the problem.
Obviously, I have not watched this video yet. Giving you a shout out anyway, because you took this on. Chrysler vehicles are known for electrical gremlins. I work on this kind of thing too, but only for my cars. I don't think I would have had the guts to do this one. Nice job! ❤ EDIT: Watched the video. Even more impressed.
Yup. Better to pull wire through the connector by drilling a hole thru assembly. Check out amperage going thru wires and use appropriate gauge and be sure there isn’t any temp elevation. Temperature is major cause of insulation turning brittle. Splice inside the door and passenger compartment where flexing will not occur. The repair will take much or time but definitely a lasting one.
I have some silicon jacket wire with tons of stranded. Designed to flex around tight bends. Had it for old Otis elevator application. May work.
I am a retired electronics technologist. Somewhere around 1999, something fried the brains of electrical engineers. They dont care about wire gauges, flexibility, temperature, proximetry of noise sources, magnetic influence, RF radiation or pickup, inductive kick, filtering, stress and corrosion failures of connectors, and how someone is supposed to repair this crap they throw together. Single point grounding was supposed to prevent thkngs like lightning damage. Unfortunately, they never looked at the big picture and never saw the way stuff loops back. Without hands-on experience repairing or installing anything, they have no concept of standard practices of design and do something to shoot themselves in the foot. I would like to write a book about the stupid things engineers I have worked with have done. Congrats on your discovery. I will retrofit the POS Jeep I had to accept to pay me back for a debt. Thanks.
I seen a fix on the Jeep Forum and that guy used all 12 guage green wire. Probably best to get multiple colors, at least 10.
He stated the manufacturer used 5 different Guages ranging from 12-22 and crap wire materials causing issues with door harness wires.
He added about a foot of wire, took out the cab connector and connected each wire via butt connectors that have heat shrink solder and covered them with heat shrink tubing.
Then he took that extra wire with the butt connected ends and tucked all of it in the cab through the door harness connector &boot so the new thicker wires are solid and higher quality where the bend point is. He zip tied them to existing wires under steering wheel inside the paneling.
Said it's lasted many years with no signs of drying, cracking or obvious wear.
I haven't done this myself but honestly need to redo all the wires in the doors since my windows don't roll down, the driver power lock doesn't work but all other door locks are functioning with key fob. The power lock switch on door doesn't work on any door, the power mirrors don't work.
The above reading light would turn on when the speedometer brightness dial was on any setting but off but fixed itself.
I really need my windows to work.
Good Video. I've had that happen now, & also a few yrs back.
Gonna spice it this time with a Coiled Wire ,, even if I coil the added splice wire myself ,, I feel the coil will take the stess off the Jeep wire 😎
Thanks for the video this is exactly what happened to me. The only thing I'm disappointed about is you didn't show how the be-Jesus you got the rubber boot back on the bracket!!
Watched your video, went out and pulled the boot of the passenger side door harness and found the ground wire broken. Thanks for the heads up.
Also Chrysler from 1960-62 used a High Voltage in the Dash Lighting Circutry " 100+ Volts ", It's Electrolumanesent Illumination in the Cluster, Radio and Clock, I got Shocked big time on the Radio!
I'd love to see one in person.
Well there is an aftermarket wiring harness available with longer, stronger wires to correct this problem. Lots of soldering and heat shrinking involved though.
Thanks.
Looks like the insulation on the wires has lost the plasticizer. Temperature gradients and age tend to bake plasticizers. Same gremlins on turn-of-the-century Mitsubishis. And I wholeheartedly agree about troubleshooting my own car.
I never could get my FOB to work on my 2001 Dakota, Never checked for broken wires in the Door Boot, Never had no issues with anything else, Ended up just having a new Viper Alarm with Remote Start and Keyless entry installed, For way cheaper than Dodge wanted for a new BCM, That they say was bad, My " Rolling " door locks still work!, I love Chrysler Vehicles!, My Stepdad worked for them, But Wiring has always been there downfall, Esp. 1973 and before!, They used to run the main + from the Alternator all the way to the Ampmeter in the Dash!, Caused Fires and no charge issues if the gauge burned out, Also ran the High Amp Blower Motor Circut right through the Ignition Switch, In 1974 they changed this and more
dorman does make a repair harness for this issue, i have purchased the kit for both doors, but i can't remember where i got it from or the part number
J, how about and alternate of: when you open the door, just don't open it more than enough than it takes for you to get in the Jeep? That way you get a lot more wear on the fix! Only open it a pinch!
I'm having the same issue right now plus my interior lights won't go off unless I manually shut them off with the knob. I also just replaced my oil sending unit lol. I was watching that oil pressure after you started it, I was thinking I know what that needs...
I've repaired quite a few, so i do understand your pain/annoyance.
If the earth breaks, you might get away with a floppy braided wire with eyelets, door to chassis. (like you said).
For the wires in the gator, i add a length of wire to each one.
It pushes the joins into the door and body.
Quality multimeter leads could be floppy enough to not break in the gator.
Sorry im waffling again :-(
No, these are all good ideas.
My wife loves her jeep but I'm always having problems with stuff like this I wonder if you sever the Wire in side and add heat shrink tube all the way down form in side to each wire to the plug if that may be a good fix😅
Try marine grade silicone insulated wire. The strands are tinned and much finer and resilient to fatigue. The silicone insulation will not harden. Wire is available on-line In 5 spools 10 ft each of different color.
I have this problem, but the wires in the passenger door are not broken. Any help?
I've had them break without the insulation separating, giving the illusion they're intact. Look for sharp bend points in the wires. If you see them, those wires are broke for sure.
Also feel them and gently pull going up and down the wire. Any soft spot is a break.
This happened to me 4x on driver side. When my door wont lock and windows wont roll I already know. I have my WJ for 20 years, repaired 5 broken off wires. Just did 2 yesterday. Its a WJ thing.
Would have liked to have seen the jointing, good video.
Buy some hi flex silicone wire. We use it in automation equipment that is constantly moving. It's pricey, but it's fantastic stuff.
honestly i am about ready to say forget the harness all together solder silicone insulated wires to the end of all these wires that get shut in the door (since they wont become brittle but be careful as they are easy to cut/tear) then, either wrap in elec tape or heat shrink them all together with some 3:1 marine grade with the adhesive inside
the idea is good but wrapping or heat shrinking would put more stretch on the external wires of the arc because of the bigger radius bending with those with smaller radiuses.
Mouser or Digikey might have wire the correct size but with more strands. It would be more flexible and should last longer. You also could use 2 smaller wires in series if there is room in that rubber boot.
Parallel
My problem just started today and just watch the video I noticed lately the passenger side door was not blocking the vehicle now it has stopped can't open the back tailgate how do I open I do manually no keypad
Manual unlock behind a small removable panel inside
Was this draining your battery?
No, because irregardless of the door lights staying on, the cars body computer shuts off everything after 10 mins, so my battery was not draining
everything dies because the yellow wire is for the can network, black is ground, red is orange is B+, but the yellow wire breaks it takes out all you mentioned and the a/c in my wife's 03
Remove the harness and replace the crap wires with silicone 16-14 Ga tin coated copper fine stranded wire and heat shrink. This type of wire will never crack if done right. The Jungle website sells a ton of this type of wire.
I still can't believe car manufacturers use vinyl wire on doors.
What's even worse is that much of the jackets on newer wiring harnesses are made from soy byproducts, so rodents find them particularly tasty. Its best not to live where mice and rats are with a newer car. I know folks who have replaced wiring in their engine bays a couple times a year due to rodents finding their wiring tasty.
Moms 2003 grand Cherokee windows and door chime and AC stopped all at once
Hopefully this helps?
Probably lost the ground or 12v line
Could you run three smaller wires to take place of the one large 'stiff' wire and maybe get more mileage? Just a thought.
Tried this on my first attempt. Didn't seem to last any longer, sadly
@@JordanPier OK, how about using something on the order of braided something like solder braid, only maybe a bit larger in size and use some flexible cloth tubing over it. Or, maybe 2 - 3 pieces of solder braid covered with some of the cloth tubing like you use to see in old radios. Just another thought.
@@randyr.parker2698 I like the solder braid idea!
I just had the same problem in a 1998 Toyota le camery 4 door sadan
I also have the 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm having ( NOW ) 2 issues. with a strong Battery and a 1/2 tank of fuel my motor will stall out. It won't show any Code faults on an OBD Reader !. If I let it sit for a couple of hours it will start back up... NOW, today I have lost control of the Power Windows, and all the other features in the Driver's door panel. The really sad part is I can no longer rely on the Vehicle being reliable.
You've lost a ground somewhere,.or have an intermittent break. They are the worst. Without test instrumentation and probes you're spinning your wheels.
I have an ‘09 Town and Country that has a weird problem I’ve never been able to fix.,The instrument panel kills the battery if I let the car set unused for a few days.? I see the odometer flash on from time to time when everything is off. I brought it to a local garage and they traced this parasitic draw to the instrument panel. I drive with hand controls since I’m wheelchair bound and they didn’t want to take the hand controls out to gain access to the instrument panel. They suggested that I install a switch to cut off drain from the battery if it’s going to sit for a few days. I did this but it’s a real pain. I’d like to get it fixed right. Too bad it’s beyond the scope of my knowledge.
Nice one. I have a 2000 Toyota Prado (3g 4runner) that has 255k miles on it. Tranny no. 2 but otherwise original 😀
I have problems with right window front and rear center look right mirror right hatchback lock
Have a 95 grand Cherokee mechanically brand new the wiring in the drivers door is in sane taking it to the desert and burning it
I know the feeling. Tech does not make our lives better. My old Toyota with power NOTHING, crank windows, manual trans and steering never fails.
Do you do your own auto repairs as well; I mean stuff like the transmission, front end, etc…
I used to. I have sciatica and joint problems which largely make working on my cars a pain (literally) - I've more or less restricted car repairs to stuff that doesn't require me to be on my back or lift heavy things.
the oil pressure gauge switch may be shorted. it does not indicate oil pressure.
Best practice for broken door wires is to replace several inches / cm, preferably with a new crimped terminal at the connector at one end, and an inline crimp "butt" connector well away from the flex area. The splices should be some distance from the flex area. The connector terminals are often available either at a dealership with a pigtail attached or sometimes bare at digikey / mouser. Most bare automotive terminals require "open barrel" crimping dies. Often, single wires with attached terminals can be salvaged from a harness from elsewhere on a scrap vehicle that are not at flex points.
So far as door harnesses stopping heater controls, this is often due to interruption or shorting out of a data bus and can sometimes stop much more. The biggest danger is a short to battery + power. Many control units are well protected against shorts to ground on a data bus but seldom for a short to 12v +.
Can you help me i check every wire all good
Remote troubleshooting is not practically possible
I have to do mine to😮
JP, consider replacing the part of the harness where it flexes, using Teflon-insulated stranded wire of appropriate guages.
Teflon isn't flexible enough. Use silicone rubber instead.
Watching that oil pressure gauge take a dive nearly gave me a panic attack. Your “oh yeah, the sender is defective” came just soon enough
Yeah, when it first happened to me while driving I about shat a brick. Threw it in neutral and shut it off. Coasted to a spot off the road and had fam bring tools and my oil pressure gauge. Was 40 something at idle and there was oil in the crankcase so I concluded it was ok to drive.
Traced out some continuity problems with that harness and didn't bother after that. You can bet I check that oil level weekly tho.
I saw some on amazon
You wouldn't happen to know the gauge of the wire would you?.
I want to crimp my ground wire to fix it temporarily in the winter than in spring do a better hopefully more permanent fix.
Think it was 12ga
@@JordanPier Thanks!
I think eBay now has wiring pigtails for these repairs. See them for Jeep not so much for Dodge.
Yes they do. Thanks
I've got an 87 ram van with broken door wires:(
I love that shes got 300k on od and running still
Now 321k
@@JordanPier mine is 222k and I’m hoping to get to 320!!
@@JordanPierwhich motor?
@@yeehaw398 4.0 six
348k now
My 99 has 325. Everything original except the door wiring and basic repairs, alt., etc! Going for 400!
Grazie
304469 miles on that thing???!!!
Yep. Motor is still going. Everything else on the car has fallen apart. Gotta love AMC designed motors.
@@JordanPier 😆 😅 😂 🤣
touch this wire to the door jambs!
Yet another "quality" Chrysler product with just 1 more of their thousands of design problems!... More commonly called a POS!
touch this wire to the door jambs! heat-shrink this guy down
Let me have that dart he😮
Just got it back on thr road. Gotta pry it out of my wife's dead hands. Was her first car and shell never part with it
So basically the wires are getting pinched in the door frame and if you have an alarm and the doors do not indicate that they are properly closed it will keep setting off your alarm which will pizz you and your neighbors off Lol
Mine's the biggest piece of shit vehicle I've ever owned. I fucking hate it. Every time I fix something about one week or two weeks later something else goes wrong. It's the biggest piece of garbage I've ever owned
Ebay
why not get rid of the connector and make your own harness
Definitely don't love the car that much. If it comes down to that I will.
Try junk yard
Save yourself some grief. Do not buy Chrysler products.
Never ever buy a Chrysler !!
mine has no problem just the rubber came out now i cant put it back.. whats the easiest to put it back
Got to pinch the tabs and pull the plastic connector out. That's the only way to reattach the rubber
@@JordanPier what tabs?
@@mr_trd21district43 if you pull the boot away from the door side you'll see two flat tabs, one at the top and the other at the bottom. They have to be pulled towards the center to get the connector enough out of the door to apply the rubber boot around the edge. Once the rubber boot is in place then push the connector back into the door until you feel it click in it it won't pull out anymore.