I got a Triton « 2 » hp a while ago. It is adequate for my router table, and I use it frequently. I love the Tritons raising/lowering system so a shout out to your sponsor!
retired furniture maker here. i made one off commission pieces for customers with no mass production. i still only have one router, the midsize makita (36 years old and wont break) which will do all the things i needed to do from small to large. as a one man shop i realised that a few tools was all i needed, if i used them wisely.
I love my cordless trim router for most tasks, but it feels good to pull out my big plunge router for some jobs. The mass of the bigger one actually helps more doing inlays. Great video!
Damn you. Now I need to add a 7th router to my collection. Love that small Triton. My small router is an old Perter Cable fixed base which I don't pull out very often.
I really need to up my router game. My main router right now is a 1960s era Porter-Cable model 100 with 7/8 of a HP. That little art deco beauty will not die and is installed in my table saw wing most of the time doing roundovers or flush trimming. I also had a 2000s Craftsman piece of crap that would never hold its height between the collet slipping or the base moving, and it would burn up brushes incessantly. It eventually melted the switch, so I tossed it in the trash but kept the little portable table it came with. Eventually I’d like to build Norm’s router table from the New Yankee Workshop and drop in a nice router lift with the biggest router I can find. That big Triton might fit the bill - if I can find one for a decent price.
something bigger then a 1/4 inch shaft. i found out...plunge routers are nice.. i have 3 routers,,and 2 nice pro tables..yep u got that right on 1/4 inch ...but then again bigger bits cost bigger money...a small router is handy..same as drill presses...theres a lot to say there to on them..buy a good one..m,taper....type..when i worked in the mill,,i found this all out...dont buy cheap things..haaa,,if you got the money...great stuff Matt..
I have 1 1hp and 2 2.5’s (one in a table) all I have needed so far, I will buy anything else I can convince myself I need ! If I need 3.5 hp I probably need a shaper !!
I’ve always wanted to try a Triton router. I like one out of two of my Bosch routers, as well as my very old PC router and Ridgid trim router. Just might have to replace my unused Bosch for a Triton. Great video, Matt.
The large Triton router with its built-in mechanical lift system was an easy upgrade decision when redoing my router table. The forethought and engineering in the Triton are amazing. I have zero complaints. You may have already done this, but otherwise you should showcase some of the Triton router features like safety switch -spindle lock- offset wrench and collets. They are game changers in functional simplicity.
Hey man, heard you were operating out of Minnesota, I live in the metro. I've been so interested in milling my own wood in order to hand craft my own table and finish it myself. I'd love a tour, im willing to pay, orlf your setup, and any tricks to get started. love your work man!!
I would love a router, and this video has helped me decide which one I will start with......however what is stopping me at the moment isn't the price of the router, but the price of the bits....some of them are over a hundred dollars each
Excellent review! I have the Triton 3.25 HP in my router table, a Makita trim router and a Bosch 2.3 HP plunge for handheld use. If I could do it over again, I would have bought the Makita 3.25 HP for handheld use instead of the Bosch, as it basically weighs the same with better power for flattening sleds.
They’re pretty simple tools I have 8 that are from 40 years old to new. I’ve bought 5 in the past two years all from Harbor Freight Two of those live in a pocket hole machine and two small compacts do edge profiles. The other is the new Hercules with fixed and plunge base that lives in a router table. The fixed base is adjustable from above the table. I’m pretty impressed by them and make furniture for a living. They’re as good as any router available twenty years ago.
thanks for all the info, I've been wondering (subconsciously) about some of the info you shared, for some time now; and that clears up some barriers in my mind about it.
I will say, after using my Bosch for a few years, the whole wheelie lift/lower mechanism on the Triton looks a lot more slick and in control, compared to just pushing it down
All those Triton routers look brand new. Were they gifts? 😉 Is this a subtle commercial for Triton? 😉 Ah, just messing with you! I would take any gifts offered to me, too! I have 4 old Porter-Cable routers, big, medium, and 2 trim, and that medium sized Festool. Love the show, even when it's about something I already have or already know.
I have all three of those sizes (Big PC in the table, 2 hp Bosch - and a Milwaukee M18 fuel Trim Router. My two cents (maybe 4 with inflation), is that a battery powered trim router is the way to go. No cord to get in your way, far more portable - and in my case uses same batteries as my circular saw, sawzall, grease gun, impact wrench and string trimmer.
I'm not sure about you, but I find the Milwaukee much easier to adjust than the Bosch too. dust collection on the 1617 realy annoys me, first buying a separate part, and then needing a screw driver to install and uninstall it to change bits? SO at least I'm hoping Milwaukee does a 2 hp cordless soon, since the 1/2 bits is rather useful.
I don’t have a router table yet but considering the cost of the router table, router lift, big router would you recommend buying a small shaper that takes 1/2 router bits over the router table?
Thank you so much for this video. Really informative as to what you should be looking at straight out of the box - Triton or any other make - really hope Triton managed to get this sorted for you - any news to report?
Makita makes a trim router which takes 1/3" bits and comes with lots of accessories. I can't imagine breaking a bit, as long as it is of good quality, sharp and you don't shave off too much material at once. Shaving off too much at once is anyway bad, because it increases the risk of chipping and splintering.
As horsepower goes up so does torque. I can manage my 2 hp but above that I lose my ability to master the torque so , personally I would shred a lot of work pieces by losing control much bigger than 2 horse.
here is an odd ball question but i really have not seen an answer to it and since i have been following your channel for sometime now and this topic has come up i feel it is the perfect time to ask this question ,,,,,,,, i am wondering if i can use a router bit in a drill? The reason i ask this is because i am actually making a grove in some 2x2 wood so i can run a bearing through it to in effect make a home made glider for a drawer? my thinking is in a drill press i can adjust the distance i need to plunge and also i can properly set up a fence so all the pieces will be the same as far as distance from the edge ,, but the biggest factor in this is i have a drill press and have acquired router bit set 2nd handed but do not have a router .... comes down to i do not do very much woodworking at this time only real small personal projects and have limited personal space to keep any tools i have or acquire
@@rogerdudra178 thank you but since i do not see a future project with the possible need for a router i will attempt to ask a friend if he has one (router) i can use for the router bits i have acquired and possibly gift the bits i have as a thank you too him i do thank you for this knowledge
I think using a router bit in a drill press would be a bad idea. First of all, a drill press really isn't designed for lateral pressure. I've heard stories of people breaking things using drum sander attachments in a drill press. Second, it seems fairly dangerous as the bit is fully exposed vs being mostly buried in a router base or router table. Also, a drill press turns way too slow. Most run in the 150 to 2800 rpm range, whereas a router turns in the 8,000 to 25,000 rpm range. Lateral runout would be another concern. Far less tolerance in a drill press than a router. I fully understand "it's what I've got" but I wouldn't risk it. Routers aren't that expensive.
Is the 3rd one a newer variation model? In EU we have the same body but different company, CMT and the 3-1/4 HP one looks exacly like the 2.25 HP model but bigger. Want to buy the bigger one but wondering if I should look for the newer iteration model.
Do router Colettes ever get damaged or worn out? Can you interchange them from one brand router to another? Are the threads all the same? Or do they differ?
In theory, collets can wear out like any tool part but it’s not something I’ve seen personally. As long as you don’t strip the threads or somehow cross the threads, the collet should last many years. Collets are not interchangeable between brands, or even between models within the same brand. Even if you have a collet from one router that appears to fit another router, I would not do that unless the manual explicitly says they are compatible. The geometry of how a collet fits into the spindle is critical to holding the bit. The last thing you want is a razor sharp bit spinning at 20,000 rpms to come loose.
No worries of loss of torque due to the battery loosing charge. Battery tools have their place if you need to be mobile, but Matt is talking about routers for your shop.
So, with a beefy, 3HP router I can take a “full Cremona” pass? Got it. Thanks. Excellent video. I’m considering a dedicated router for the router table. This is helpful for deciding.
I guess you missed the last barn organization video... All the shelves being built and wood stacks being moved so Matt can start on the flooring. Plus he picked up (borrowed) a 4 sided molders for the flooring. And I'm sure he'll use that for some trim work too! The barn took priority over the house because of the crunch to beat the winter weather. Hope this helps.
@@OldsmobileCutlass1969Va I have not missed any of his videos for the last number of years. My question was a question, not a criticism. I am looking forward to his future videos on the house.
The horsepower numbers for routers have gotten as meaningless as shopvacs. The absolute maximum you can get from 15A at 100% effectively is 2.4HP. Since no router is nowhere near that efficient and no 15A tool is allowed to run at true 15A, none of them are probably over 1.5-1.75HP. Bigger routers give no more power than the mid sized ones unless the mid sized ones are terribly inefficient or overrated. First!
Truck question buy them ALL!!
I know that’s supposed to be trick but truck makes it way better
Yeah, keep the "truck"- it fits the answer!
I got a Triton « 2 » hp a while ago. It is adequate for my router table, and I use it frequently. I love the Tritons raising/lowering system so a shout out to your sponsor!
retired furniture maker here. i made one off commission pieces for customers with no mass production. i still only have one router, the midsize makita (36 years old and wont break) which will do all the things i needed to do from small to large. as a one man shop i realised that a few tools was all i needed, if i used them wisely.
Great information
Get the 3 1/4hp, the TRA100 is a beast. Got two of them 1 dedicated in the r/table, 1 dedicated in a slab flattening mill.
Matt, Definetly need to practice my “tsssw tsssw” technique that you demonstrated at the end.
I love my cordless trim router for most tasks, but it feels good to pull out my big plunge router for some jobs. The mass of the bigger one actually helps more doing inlays. Great video!
Damn you. Now I need to add a 7th router to my collection. Love that small Triton. My small router is an old Perter Cable fixed base which I don't pull out very often.
Thanks for the information Matt.
thanks
13 is a nice round number, use them for production,always set up and ready.
I really need to up my router game. My main router right now is a 1960s era Porter-Cable model 100 with 7/8 of a HP. That little art deco beauty will not die and is installed in my table saw wing most of the time doing roundovers or flush trimming.
I also had a 2000s Craftsman piece of crap that would never hold its height between the collet slipping or the base moving, and it would burn up brushes incessantly. It eventually melted the switch, so I tossed it in the trash but kept the little portable table it came with.
Eventually I’d like to build Norm’s router table from the New Yankee Workshop and drop in a nice router lift with the biggest router I can find. That big Triton might fit the bill - if I can find one for a decent price.
The one that best suits your needs.
something bigger then a 1/4 inch shaft. i found out...plunge routers are nice.. i have 3 routers,,and 2 nice pro tables..yep u got that right on 1/4 inch ...but then again bigger bits cost bigger money...a small router is handy..same as drill presses...theres a lot to say there to on them..buy a good one..m,taper....type..when i worked in the mill,,i found this all out...dont buy cheap things..haaa,,if you got the money...great stuff Matt..
I have 1 1hp and 2 2.5’s (one in a table) all I have needed so far, I will buy anything else I can convince myself I need ! If I need 3.5 hp I probably need a shaper !!
You get one of each of course.
I’ve always wanted to try a Triton router. I like one out of two of my Bosch routers, as well as my very old PC router and Ridgid trim router. Just might have to replace my unused Bosch for a Triton. Great video, Matt.
Thanks for sharing those tips!
The large Triton router with its built-in mechanical lift system was an easy upgrade decision when redoing my router table. The forethought and engineering in the Triton are amazing. I have zero complaints. You may have already done this, but otherwise you should showcase some of the Triton router features like safety switch -spindle lock- offset wrench and collets. They are game changers in functional simplicity.
Wow, your bits cabinet is beautiful
Wall-hanging Router Bit Cabinet | Woodworking Project / Free Plans
th-cam.com/video/lRomzMu4KjU/w-d-xo.html
Three days too late; bought the big one....Great timing. Just unboxing the beast had me nervous...rr Normandy, Fra.
Good morning Cremona family
Hey man, heard you were operating out of Minnesota, I live in the metro.
I've been so interested in milling my own wood in order to hand craft my own table and finish it myself. I'd love a tour, im willing to pay, orlf your setup, and any tricks to get started. love your work man!!
How do I get rid of the ambrosia beetles from my slabs? Thanks
I would love a router, and this video has helped me decide which one I will start with......however what is stopping me at the moment isn't the price of the router, but the price of the bits....some of them are over a hundred dollars each
@Cerberusagree, not only you won't use most of the bits that come in the sets, they are usually crap quality aswell!
I have a few of the cheap sets so I have the profiles if I ever need them but for ones I actually use, I’ll buy a good one
Excellent review! I have the Triton 3.25 HP in my router table, a Makita trim router and a Bosch 2.3 HP plunge for handheld use. If I could do it over again, I would have bought the Makita 3.25 HP for handheld use instead of the Bosch, as it basically weighs the same with better power for flattening sleds.
Ok
What model is in your table?
They’re pretty simple tools
I have 8 that are from 40 years old to new.
I’ve bought 5 in the past two years all from Harbor Freight
Two of those live in a pocket hole machine and two small compacts do edge profiles.
The other is the new Hercules with fixed and plunge base that lives in a router table. The fixed base is adjustable from above the table.
I’m pretty impressed by them and make furniture for a living.
They’re as good as any router available twenty years ago.
LOL, I have an all metal die cast P.C.from God knows when.
I’m not going to admit how many routers I have
@@Outcast1016, I tell my wife that need one for every bit.
Obviously, The one you find at a yard/garage/estate sale.
Very nice summary Matt!
thanks for all the info, I've been wondering (subconsciously) about some of the info you shared, for some time now; and that clears up some barriers in my mind about it.
I will say, after using my Bosch for a few years, the whole wheelie lift/lower mechanism on the Triton looks a lot more slick and in control, compared to just pushing it down
All those Triton routers look brand new. Were they gifts? 😉 Is this a subtle commercial for Triton? 😉
Ah, just messing with you! I would take any gifts offered to me, too! I have 4 old Porter-Cable routers, big, medium, and 2 trim, and that medium sized Festool.
Love the show, even when it's about something I already have or already know.
Mat, have you ever did a video on making your own dowels? Perhaps with a router.
As soon as you buy your very 1st tool you will realize you need all of them yes all tools every single one of them in the entire world you need!
Yes! That’s how many
I know you’ve had a lot going on lately, but I miss your videos like this. Also seeing your woodworking ptojects. 👍🏻
I have all three of those sizes (Big PC in the table, 2 hp Bosch - and a Milwaukee M18 fuel Trim Router. My two cents (maybe 4 with inflation), is that a battery powered trim router is the way to go. No cord to get in your way, far more portable - and in my case uses same batteries as my circular saw, sawzall, grease gun, impact wrench and string trimmer.
I'm not sure about you, but I find the Milwaukee much easier to adjust than the Bosch too. dust collection on the 1617 realy annoys me, first buying a separate part, and then needing a screw driver to install and uninstall it to change bits? SO at least I'm hoping Milwaukee does a 2 hp cordless soon, since the 1/2 bits is rather useful.
@@trevsaunders5778 My Bosch is the MRC23EVSK 2.3 hp combo router. Been pretty pleased with it.
Hey Matthew, how long am I suppose to dry a tree stump about 3-4 ft long? One year? Planning to use as side table.
Do they still have the wobble
Where does the 45 dollar Menards special you found at a garage sale with half the parts missing fit into this video?
If Norm taught me anything it's, you can never have too many routers.
I don’t have a router table yet but considering the cost of the router table, router lift, big router would you recommend buying a small shaper that takes 1/2 router bits over the router table?
Not really. Shapers don’t spin as fast
Thank you so much for this video. Really informative as to what you should be looking at straight out of the box - Triton or any other make - really hope Triton managed to get this sorted for you - any news to report?
Makita makes a trim router which takes 1/3" bits and comes with lots of accessories. I can't imagine breaking a bit, as long as it is of good quality, sharp and you don't shave off too much material at once. Shaving off too much at once is anyway bad, because it increases the risk of chipping and splintering.
Is the 2 HP adequate (in a router table) doing lock-miter joints (1/2" bits) on hardwoods?
As horsepower goes up so does torque. I can manage my 2 hp but above that I lose my ability to master the torque so , personally I would shred a lot of work pieces by losing control much bigger than 2 horse.
here is an odd ball question but i really have not seen an answer to it and since i have been following your channel for sometime now and this topic has come up i feel it is the perfect time to ask this question ,,,,,,,, i am wondering if i can use a router bit in a drill? The reason i ask this is because i am actually making a grove in some 2x2 wood so i can run a bearing through it to in effect make a home made glider for a drawer? my thinking is in a drill press i can adjust the distance i need to plunge and also i can properly set up a fence so all the pieces will be the same as far as distance from the edge ,, but the biggest factor in this is i have a drill press and have acquired router bit set 2nd handed but do not have a router .... comes down to i do not do very much woodworking at this time only real small personal projects and have limited personal space to keep any tools i have or acquire
Get a router, drills don't have enough power. RPM's are too low.
@@rogerdudra178 thank you
but since i do not see a future project with the possible need for a router i will attempt to ask a friend if he has one (router) i can use for the router bits i have acquired and possibly gift the bits i have as a thank you too him
i do thank you for this knowledge
I think using a router bit in a drill press would be a bad idea. First of all, a drill press really isn't designed for lateral pressure. I've heard stories of people breaking things using drum sander attachments in a drill press. Second, it seems fairly dangerous as the bit is fully exposed vs being mostly buried in a router base or router table. Also, a drill press turns way too slow. Most run in the 150 to 2800 rpm range, whereas a router turns in the 8,000 to 25,000 rpm range. Lateral runout would be another concern. Far less tolerance in a drill press than a router. I fully understand "it's what I've got" but I wouldn't risk it. Routers aren't that expensive.
@@rogerdudra178 ps when i said a drill i was thinking about a drill press
You can do it but it won’t be very effective. A drill press spins too slowly
Difference between type 1 and type 2, and type 3 routers
Is the 3rd one a newer variation model? In EU we have the same body but different company, CMT and the 3-1/4 HP one looks exacly like the 2.25 HP model but bigger. Want to buy the bigger one but wondering if I should look for the newer iteration model.
Yes, released last year. TRA002
Nice!
Can you do a jig saw comparison? I think its widely under utilized.
Sounds like I’ll need to buy more tools
Hey Matt, awesome vid! Do you use any cordless routers for just simple little edge work?
Do router Colettes ever get damaged or worn out? Can you interchange them from one brand router to another? Are the threads all the same? Or do they differ?
In theory, collets can wear out like any tool part but it’s not something I’ve seen personally. As long as you don’t strip the threads or somehow cross the threads, the collet should last many years. Collets are not interchangeable between brands, or even between models within the same brand. Even if you have a collet from one router that appears to fit another router, I would not do that unless the manual explicitly says they are compatible. The geometry of how a collet fits into the spindle is critical to holding the bit. The last thing you want is a razor sharp bit spinning at 20,000 rpms to come loose.
The Biggest 😂😂😂😂😂😂 But my big Triton always in Table
It strikes me, none of these are battery-powered. Is there an advantage to the cord?
No worries of loss of torque due to the battery loosing charge. Battery tools have their place if you need to be mobile, but Matt is talking about routers for your shop.
So, with a beefy, 3HP router I can take a “full Cremona” pass? Got it.
Thanks. Excellent video. I’m considering a dedicated router for the router table. This is helpful for deciding.
Hahaha inside joke all stars
@@mcremona I think “full Cremona” would be a shaper or a moulding machine. Oh wait, Matt just did that 😂
Are you ever going to work on your house again? Do you currently have a kitchen?
Yes and yes
Give the guy a break. He has 50 projects on the go along with running a couple of businesses.
I guess you missed the last barn organization video... All the shelves being built and wood stacks being moved so Matt can start on the flooring. Plus he picked up (borrowed) a 4 sided molders for the flooring. And I'm sure he'll use that for some trim work too!
The barn took priority over the house because of the crunch to beat the winter weather.
Hope this helps.
@@OldsmobileCutlass1969Va I have not missed any of his videos for the last number of years. My question was a question, not a criticism. I am looking forward to his future videos on the house.
The bigger two just look super awkward to hold…
I have 4 routers so...
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🥃🥃🥃☕️☕️☕️👀👀👀👍👍👍🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The horsepower numbers for routers have gotten as meaningless as shopvacs. The absolute maximum you can get from 15A at 100% effectively is 2.4HP. Since no router is nowhere near that efficient and no 15A tool is allowed to run at true 15A, none of them are probably over 1.5-1.75HP. Bigger routers give no more power than the mid sized ones unless the mid sized ones are terribly inefficient or overrated. First!
I agree. Much better to look at the amp or watt rating
I was wondering about this. A 3 HP dust collector or table saw requires a 220 outlet, so you would think a 3HP Router would require the same.
@@MAGAMAN Or, lie to consumers and say it's 3HP when it's maybe 1.3-1.5HP. I should start selling 12HP routers on 120V
Can these large routers be connected to a 20A plug end to then work at the higher 20A circuit receptacle to take advantage of the amperage?
@@slaveofjesus3878 No it doesn't work that way.
I guess I cheated a bit cause I have 3 routers that are different horsepower therefore different sizes.
What ever Router you buy, do not buy a Triton. Mine worked for two weeks and quit. Looks good setting on a shelf . Junk.
I got a medium one for free so I'll stick with that