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I was looking for a q3 oil service video and saw these on your tutorial. Searched your channel and was very happy to see you did a video on making them. Excellent work, I’ll be trying the same build thanks to you. Superb filming and editing too. Thanks
Hi Matt, thank you very much. I’m really pleased you like them. Also nice to hear my filming was ok, as I’m very much an amateur but steadily, hopefully getting better. Good look with making your ramps. 👍🙂
Every once in a while you see something on here that is clever yet simple, practical and cost efficient. It’s also evident you take pride in your work-Well done Sir!
Thank you very much, that is praise indeed. It is very gratifying to know people appreciate what I’m doing on the channel and it boosts my enthusiasm to do more similar projects. Thank you. 👍🙂
That's pretty epic. I wasn't so sure about the gaps you had until the end there. That's pretty clever. Only upgrade I'd add is a solid 2 x 8 that goes vertically to reinforce your diamond plate backstop.
Hi Kaleb, thank you, epic is praise indeed. 😊 You would actually be surprised how strong the the folded checker plate is. I can guarantee if I tried to drive of the end, the ramps would tip up before the the metal bent the other way. It is more there just to know you are at the ramp end. The process of bending the metal makes it stronger. This may seem counter intuitive but initially bending the metal is fairly easy. Trying to straighten though becomes very difficult due to the the crystalline structure of the metal changing during the bending process. Really pleased you liked the ramps. 👍
Dear sir. I enjoyed your video. I would recommend one thing only: don't use gloves near a drill bit. The glove can get wrapped around the drill bit and end up on your finger. That happened to me. Cheers.
Very pleased you enjoyed the video. And thank you for reminding me, it is so easy to become complacent and forget those important safety rules we had drummed into us as an apprentice.
Also never reach across a blade on a radial miter saw..the blade could bind and take your arm off ..I witnessed it almost happen to a coworker using a radial arm saw.
I like the idea of leaving open sections to reduce weight plus bonus place to hold tools! I must say that putting it together with bolts is crazy overkill. There's no need to ever take it apart so I would glue the pieces together instead. The aluminum sheet metal is also useless. Maybe it will stop the wheels if you go too far but I would rather have a thick piece of Aluminum (or better yet, steel) bolted to the front for a stop. for a For non-slip surface, paint the tops with oil based paint and sprinkle sand on it as it dries.
They do save some weight and give them a certain look which I like. I know the bolts are maybe a bit of overkill, but it is extremely solid and will never go anywhere 😁 and part of the idea was to make an interesting video. Hopefully I succeeded in that regard. Not sure what you mean about the aluminium checker plate it definitely isn’t useless 🙂. I know you might think it isn’t strong enough as a stop, but honestly that is not the case. Once bent the plate becomes very strong, any vehicle would only roll over it and not flatten it. The non slip adhesive tape I used also works extremely well and makes a neater more professional look imo. Hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. 👍🙂
I would suggest putting something to reinforce the upturned aluminum on the top of the ramp. It is not near strong enough to stop a vehicle from rolling forward off the ramp. Either a piece of 2 inch angle iron or a piece of 2 x 6 lumber the size of the full ramp face glued and screwed to the face of the ramp that is also fastened to the upturned aluminum.
Hi Zephaniah, I hope you enjoyed watching the video. Thank you for the advice I appreciate it. You would actually be surprised how strong the the folded checker plate is. I can guarantee if I tried to drive of the end, the ramps would tip up before the the metal bent the other way. It is more there just to know you are at the ramp end. The process of bending the metal makes it stronger. This may seem counter intuitive but initially bending the metal is fairly easy. Trying to straighten though becomes very difficult due to the the crystalline structure of the metal changing during the bending process. Really pleased you liked the ramps. 👍
These are great! I particularly like the use of grip tape. One thing, since the handles are at the front, you are running over them every time. Does this weaken them at all or it doesn’t matter?
Thank you very much. They seem a bit over the top but everything has a purpose. As regards the handles they are low enough and small enough that the vehicle wheels don’t even touch them. They work great. 🙂👍
What do you think that we capacity of these are? I have a GMC Topkick dump truck that weighs 33,000 pounds with a load of dirt in it do you think I can make a pair of ramps out of wood that would hold that?
Hi Greg, well not these actual ramps. These easily cope with a Land Rover Discovery. But your dump truck is a little heavy for these, 33000 lbs is 16.5 tons in English money. But yes timber ramps of the right size construction and timber will work fine. I started my career as a truck mechanic and we used timber blocks all the time to drive onto and to support it when jacked up. In fact a wide thick timber block is far safer than your average axle stand IMO. Grips the floor and and can be far more stable making you feel much safer working under a heavy vehicle. Hope this helps. 🙂👍
You are correct, they are actually used structural roofing timbers which I bought in a sale to make a bench out of. (There is a video of the bench construction if your interested) I had plenty left over so thought they would make some good ramps. Can’t remember the dimensions and I’m out at the moment, but will let you know later. 🙂👍
Hi Steve, that’s a great idea that I didn’t think of. I might just do that. They stand up against a wall at the wheel end at the moment. 😊👍 Very pleased you enjoyed the video.
Hi Ronnie, thanks for letting me know. I did blur out the first few seconds because I changed the name of the channel a while ago. The blur actually lasts 4:20 so it looks pretty bad. I’ve reverted back to the original so thanks again. 🙂👍
Thank you so much GX3 for your $2.00 “Super Thanks” it is very much appreciated. I intend to put it towards new camera equipment. Presently use mainly my iPhone and it’s very much time for an upgrade. 👍 Thanks for taking the time A few of you have requested the dimensions to assist in building your own. Check out this video for the car ramp dimensions: th-cam.com/video/XFQODzYYmHA/w-d-xo.html I hope found the this video both interesting and enjoyable. If you did I really would appreciate it if you would consider subscribing to my channel. A thumbs up would be great too. Thank you. There is more great content here: th-cam.com/play/PLlryvotrcqlQn-5mlxHxRdVzuj3m93jZV.html You may also find this video interesting: th-cam.com/video/JwbqQhP9jrs/w-d-xo.html
Can you please make one for the whole car? Here are the ideas? 1. Split sections that can be joined together to make a long one. The sloping ramps at the end are detachable. 2. Option to remove the Ramp section under wheels while supporting that part of the car by a jack stand placed between pinch welds and on top of the other section of the Ramp 3. Top piece, the driveable section, of the long ramp can be removed to make it light for storage. 4. Height is the ramp to be around 15 inches. 5. Ramp has a large openings to slide under the car from the side of the ramp. 6. Supporting blocks under the ramp can be placed anywhere along the length of the ramp to make it easier to take the tires off and do suspension work, etc.
Hi David, 😊 looks like it yes, it’s actually left overs from building my bench. It’s some 200 x 60 laminated structural roofing timber I bought from a sale.
Do you have any dimensions, lumber looks to be laminated 2" x 3" or so? What are the lengths, I'm thinking 3 at 16", 1 at 36", and 4 at 6" ? Would like to build a set. Thanks for the video.
Hi, I’m glad you liked them. Yes they are laminated. They are actually structural roofing beams which I bought from a country sale to build a workshop bench with. (I’ll post links to the bench build videos if you are interested😊) Your dimensions sound quite close. I plan on uploading a short video with all the sizes in the next couple of days, as other people have also asked for them. Thanks for watching the video. 👍😊
Thanks Marcela, the timber is left over from building a bench, which I bought from an auction. Think I paid around £40 and I still have plenty left. About £20 for coach bolts and £10 for the grip tape. Everything else I already had. In terms of time I’m not really sure but think I built them over a couple of days. There are some links to some of the materials in the description. Hope this helps. 😊
Yeah I nearly did the same but it is debatable whether a vehicle climbs up better. From my experience the tyres can tend to lose grip on a slope, but contrary to what you would think they grip really well on this design. Hope you enjoyed the video. 👍🙂
Nicely done. I'd like to offer some constructive criticism and a few ideas that adhere to the first rule of engineering: Never design yourself into an "oh shit" scenario. First off, the handles will snap right off as they are in the tires' travel path. A smaller profile tire is almost guaranteed to hit them. Moving them to the sides is a simple fix. Second, this may seem trivial, but why not use regular bolts? Plus, what if one carriage bolt breaks loose? This assembly relies on the tensile strength of the material in line with the grain (Axis of Least Strength), with the compressive load concentrated into a VERY small area. Wouldn't take much to break loose by splitting the grain apart. Regular bolts and locknuts will do just as well, just countersink the holes enough for a socket. For the tread plate, using countersunk head screws would be fine and keep it tidy. Third, I'd suggest adding an Anti-tip Countermeasure on the end of the ramp. A block that sits beyond the upturned section of tread plate will do fine. It and its connection to the rest of the structure needs to be VERY strong as it will be taking the entire load of the vehicle in a rather small area if one slightly over-runs the ramp. Last, how are you addressing and correcting for material warpage? I don't readily have a solution for this, but I did notice these ramps were not sitting square, flush, flat and even during use. With the weight of a vehicle, I'd be concerned about stability on such a critical piece of safety equipment. Movement introduces Velocity which amplifies Force proportionally, increasing stress on the materials.
Thank you I’m pleased you liked them. And thank you for your constructive comments. Actually the handles are fine if you look closely they are offset and I’ve now had numerous vehicles up these ramps with no issue. The coach bolts are just clamping the wood together and aren’t really carrying any load, that is carried directly through the wood to the ground. (these are 8.8 and exactly the same as bolts would be) You would actually be surprised how strong the the folded checker plate is. I can guarantee if I tried to drive of the end, the ramps would tip up before the the metal bent the other way. It is more there just to know you are at the ramp end. The process of bending the metal makes it stronger. This may seem counter intuitive but initially bending the metal is fairly easy. Trying to straighten though becomes very difficult due to the the crystalline structure of the metal changing during the bending process. Your last point which I do appreciate you making, but I do not think it is an issue at all, any warping or flexing is negligible and is only apparent due to weight transfer as the vehicle is supported by a different section of the ramp. You will get exactly the same effect with a steel ramp. Thanks again for watching the video and liking them. 🙂 👍
@@EverydayWorkshop Agreed, the actual coach/carriage bolts aren't the issue. It's the surrounding material keeping them from turning in their holes. Add a few years and you're probably going to have a bad day if these ever have to be taken apart. I figure you handled any concerns about the top plate, so no need to worry about it. The ramp tipping forward in the manner you describe was my main concern, hence suggesting to add an anti-tip block at the bottom. As for warpage, I've had the same issue come up with my massively-overbuilt wheel stands. After 3 years, only one still sits flat. I discovered this when trying to use them a few weeks ago and found the rear of the vehicle had walked slightly sideways as a result. It also failed the shake test. Black flag, full stop right there. I put the car back on the ground and I re-examined the stands. The rear of the car was also about 12" off from where it began. Might only be 3mm of one corner, but that's more than enough for things to go bad. Especially with 2+ tons of BMW or 3 tons of Ford Expedition sitting on them and putting lateral load on them such as breaking a bolt loose. Maybe you have some suggestions on how to correct this?
Thank you very much. It is actually fine, I’ve used these ramps with several vehicles of varying sizes and they’ve all climbed up very easily. So I’m sure Grandmas Honda Civic would manage just fine 🙂👍
@@EverydayWorkshop oh nice, i seen at the end of the video your volvo made it with just street tires, i wasnt sure if that was awd or something. while you were building it it looked like a huge jump. btw did you ever reinforce the metal that was folded up at the end?
The climb is fairly insignificant really, imagine how your car fairly easily climb a kerb. Absolutely no need to reinforce, a few people have mentioned this. Believe me this checker plate is very strong especially after being bent as the structure of the metal changes increasing its strength and works very well as a stop unless you keep driving ! 🙂👍
OLD Leather Smith here, I have only 1 suggestion, Elevator Bolts would work much better the head is Flat and under the head is still square so they won't turn in the wood. Before Leather business I sold Fasteners 4 a living for 46 years. Great Job. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Hi James, great suggestion they would probably work great, I’ll definitely keep them in mind for any future similar projects, although I have quite a few surplus at the moment. 😊 I’m interest to know what you do in the leather business, do you create things? Thank you very much for the kind words and I’m pleased you enjoyed the video.
@@EverydayWorkshop I do custom only 4 clients and customers, nothing's 4 sale. Yes I put things 2gether, I also carve in 3d. Customers and clients bring pictures, make comments and I ask questions then I produce. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Thanks JayPee, I agree they would be useful on the inside, they have to be in the body of the ramp I think thought or they would present a problem storing them. Glad you liked them.
You really got carried away - some good ideas and some just wasteful. (:P The aluminium corner flip at the front looks like an accident waiting to happen, hope You are very careful there..
@@helder4u Forgot to mention the aluminium stop you pointed out. Did mean they don’t look strong enough. They are actually very strong. 😊 Thanks for your concern though. 👍
Seeing those actions at 04:02 made my hand hurt in sympathy! 🤣 Have been a Diesel mechanic for 20 years but if i did that I would be feeling it for weeks! Love the ramps though 👍👍
Out cast and Rob. It’s not as bad as it looks, the wood is fairly soft and my palms are built for it anyway 😄. Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it 👍.
Just make a solid block ramp .use 2x8 or 2x10 boards cut at different lengths . Glue and screw together with construction screws. Half the time and half the cost of this vidio. Use them on a 2500 diesel with no concern of collapsing.
Hi Peter, well there is certainly no concern of these collapsing. I could have made some just as you suggest, that would have been very easy 🙂. They might have been quicker but the video wouldn’t have been as good. In terms cost your version would cost more 😉 as I had everything for these ramps (except the tape) but not for your version. Hope you enjoyed the video though. 🙂👍
Do you mean the weight of the ramps or what they can support. The ramps aren’t heavy and they are on wheels🙂. The largest vehicle I’ve had on the is a Land Rover Discovery.
Thank you Milton, I didn’t give any dimensions in this video but have recently uploaded this video: th-cam.com/video/XFQODzYYmHA/w-d-xo.html which should help you. 😊👍
I suggest a hole in the first step where a pin can be dropped into a hole in the floor. People have reported instances where the vehicle has slid one ramp out from under the tyre as the vehicle was climbing the ramp ,and the vehicle underside drops onto the displaced ramp causing damage to the vehicle. You can put a masonry anchor in the floor , but it isn't strictly necessary.
Thanks for the great suggestion Paul. You’re absolutely correct they can slide out if you are not careful, that’s were skill comes in as you first climb the ramps. Once your on the first step you are fairly stable. In a perfect world an anchor would be great but we would loose the convenience of using them anywhere. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop That's only true of a LSD equipped vehicle. With an open differential , a slight difference in the friction between the ramp and the floor may result in all the power going through one wheel and sending the ramp on its way (assuming the driving wheels are going on the ramps)
Hi Paul, yes LSD vehicles would be easier, but they are only “limited” not locked. The trick is to chose your ground wisely so the grip is even on both ramps and both wheels contact them evenly. This will lessen the chance of a ramp slipping away. This is one of the the advantages of stepped ramps. Drive onto the ramps with a bit of momentum so they sort of roll onto the first step and you shouldn’t have a problem. 👍
When I built my ramps years ago , I took sections of an old semi truck mud flap that I had found alongside of the road and nailed them to the underside of the ramps to prevent the scooting across the floor .
Sir I will tell you one thing I paid $75 for these plastic rhino ramps and they've worked great they've held up up trucks,suvs,and of course cars but I don't trust them so I always put jack stands underneath but if I had these wooden ramps I would trust these you should really think about selling some
I agree there is nothing like solid timber to make you feel safe. I have thought about selling them, although the present construction is fairly labour intensive. I’m really pleased you like them. 🙂👍
This is all well & good, a valiant effort, but my BIG-G & WIDE-E RHINO RAMPS I purchased several years ago from Pep Boys for the A-MA-ZING price of $20 ( by way of SLICKDEALS ) are doing me just fine. They have a capacity of 12,000lbs. which is TWICE the entire weight of my INFINITI QX80 ( BEAST! ).
Hi Louis, thank you, I just got carried away making them and it was fun. Those Rhino ramps do look great and would have saved me the work I put into these. Mine do the job very well though so I’m happy. Hope you enjoyed watching. 👍🙂
@@EverydayWorkshop I am sure the ramps you fabricated do the job and by their certain bulk are up to the loading. I checked the prices of my larger-size ramps & canNOT believe the tremendous increase that has occurred in the last 5-6yrs. Some retailers have them for $115, but most others are around $60 & up. The $20 I paid were represented to be half their usual rate. I don't usually get deals like that. Your ramps are sure to be MUCH less, plus they offer the satisfaction of a do-it-yourself project filling a need. Please keep up this informative and rewarding work.
@@SpicyRok7482 Thanks Louis, it seems like everything has gone on the back of all the world events. Although I am sure there is a lot of opportunist profiteering going on. I’ve gone over the top with my ramps (a little 🙂) but I’m sure some much simpler and very strong ramps could be made at a fraction of the price you found. Thanks again for watching. 👍🙂
No need to go to all that trouble, over engineered for sure, you'd need a crane just to move them 😄 you could put a 747 fully loaded on those ramps...... no problem !
Hi Colin, Yeah I won’t disagree with you, I did over engineer a touch, but why not. Hopefully they make an entertaining video. They are made from old structural roofing timbers from an old sports hall, and are actually not that heavy. They have wheels too 😁.
I built a simple bench out of the same timber if you are interested. It’s time lapse in two parts. Part 1 th-cam.com/video/RIe_w0xq-NQ/w-d-xo.html Part 2 th-cam.com/video/awDRlzClCc4v/w-d-xo.html
Great build… just curious, why did not you bevel cut the ends of each block ramp rather than leaving square edge? Nice touch on the aluminum top with a backstop. Otherwise, a diy heavy duty car ramp …thanks for sharing. 👊😎👍
Hi Charley, glad you liked it. Great question and something I considered when deciding on the design. In my experience it doesn’t make climbing the ramps any more difficult, in fact probably the opposite. You also control your accent this way, and not arriving to quickly 😊 at the top of the ramps. Probably no big issue, just my take on the pros and cons.
Just don't forget how many bumps it is to the top level. There's another video which shows a much simpler and more practical design. th-cam.com/video/2tMp_IBvlbo/w-d-xo.html
😊 your right D not something you want to do. The secret is to lean out of the window as you ascend and make sure you stop in the correct spot. Yes I’ve already seen that video, he’s made a great set of ramps and I agree they are simple and practical, the hinge ramp was something I contemplated when I made these. Maybe I’ll make another pair that do hinge out of the way. Come on though these are fun 😁
Should of put a hing on it so it swings away from the vehicle so the ramps are out of the way. All that work and forgot one key thing lol. Hing in the middle.
@@a.melburn You cut the ramps in half and attach a door hinge on both sides, with removable pins. Then you can pivot the ramps out of the way to work under the car.
Hi Ricardo, thank you for your comment. I take your point but I f I glued the wood together it wouldn’t be necessary to use 10 mm coach bolts. And I can assure you they are nice and tight and have both a flat washer and “spring washer” so won’t be coming loose any time soon. Hope you enjoyed watching the video though. 🙂👍
@@EverydayWorkshop on inside of the ramp, instead of the front. If you work in between the ramps, the sides would be easier to reach, next to where you put the tools
Yes I agree but after using them they are easily reachable. Also I designed them to serve another purpose… I can stand the ramps on their ends for storage as they are exactly the same height as the wheels. Which I think I show in the video. 👍😊
Thank you, I do agree, another inch or two wider would have been better. But I had this timber spare and although not a 100% ideal I new it would do the job, also I had all the another materials, so the project was zero cost. Which I love 😁.
Hi, I understand your concern but they are actually very stable so long as you use solid ground and centre the wheels correctly they are absolutely fine. I would actually have liked them a little wider, but I had this timber spare and new it was suitable. So you see the ramps cost me very little, the only purchase was the grip tape I applied. Thanks for watching the video I hope you enjoyed it. 😊👍
You've got all of that nice equipment, table saw, pillar drill, welder etc but you can't afford a hole punch Hammer 😂😮😅 Plus the amount of tools you needed and time it took, better off buying metal ramps.
Thanks for commenting on my nice equipment BandiMassha, it’s ok but fairly basic. Not sure what you mean by a hole punch hammer (I actually have loads of hammers 😁) I have to disagree about the ramps though, I had great enjoyment and satisfaction making them mostly out of materials I already had, so they cost me very little. Plus I like to think they made a great video subject and if they help anyone who considers making their own that is fantastic. I hope you did enjoy the video. 👍🙂
Other than the high cost of elbow grease ... how much in wood and parts ? I have a huge scrap wood pile at hand ... but this would be something to hand down to that Lil Grease Monkey Grand-Daughter . And then to the next one . Well made . Built to last . ....... so ah....what you charging ?
Yeah there was a fair amount elbow grease, but that’s ok 😊. I actually bought the timber from a country action specifically to build a bench. So I used the surplus to make these. Think I paid around £40 and I still have plenty left. About £20 for coach bolt and £10 for the grip tape. Hadn’t thought selling them, but now you mention it 🤔.
3:58 Don't use hands as hammers. If you suffer permanent nerve damage you will regret it for the rest of your life. If you must use a hand as a hammer , use someone else's hand - or their head ,which is heavier and harder
😁 More Great advice Paul but you can’t do everything with a hammer, and I do love them. I have quite a few 😊. You notice I was using one a few seconds after that point. Thanks for your concern but don’t worry about me though, I think my hands, wrists, arms and shoulders have evolved to take it. (that was tame by the way) I’ve been an engineer since the mid seventies so I’m happy to carry on working this way. You learn to know the point at which the hammer needs to take over. 👍
Sure it’s cheaper to buy a ramp but it’s great to have the satisfaction of making your own and it made a great video 🙂. Not sure what you mean about getting a real ramp, I can assure you these are definitely real and much better than the majority out there for sale. With reference to your comment about the car falling off the end you are correct a car could drive over the stops just like a car will climb a kerb. You are possibly thinking they will just bend in which case you would be 100% wrong this checker plate is very strong especially after being bent as the structure of the metal changes increasing its strength and work very well as a stop unless you keep driving ! Thank you for watching and I hope you did enjoy it. I would love you to reply. 🙂👍
Thanks for your concern Jim, and it is great advice I I wouldn’t recommend anyone starting to use their hands in this way especially if they don’t normally have a hard hands on physical job. But please don’t worry about me though, I think my hands, wrists, arms and shoulders have evolved to take it. (that was tame by the way) I’ve been an engineer since the mid seventies so I’m happy to carry on working this way. You learn to know the point at which the hammer needs to take over. 👍 You can’t do everything with a hammer, and I do love them. I have quite a few 😊. You will notice I was using one a few seconds after that point.
I just rewatched that bit as I couldn’t remember. Pretty sure I just bent it a bit more if at all then finished it off with hammer and block. That’s all nothing more interesting or funny or I would have left it in. Probably more likely my rubbish editing. 😊 Thanks for watching. 👍
Lol, except where it really matters - the stop at the top. Issue isn't strength of the material, but the inadequate height. The height should be significantly greater than the preceding wood "steps", as going past the stop is catastrophic. Better yet would be to eliminate the steps or at least add bevels to the leading edges which would make it more obvious that the stop has been reached, but this would add additional work. Otherwise, one needs to count the steps, and be extraordinarily careful driving up the ramps. IMO, there is simply no justification for not making the stop nearly failsafe when it's so easy to do so.
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I was looking for a q3 oil service video and saw these on your tutorial. Searched your channel and was very happy to see you did a video on making them. Excellent work, I’ll be trying the same build thanks to you. Superb filming and editing too. Thanks
Hi Matt, thank you very much. I’m really pleased you like them. Also nice to hear my filming was ok, as I’m very much an amateur but steadily, hopefully getting better. Good look with making your ramps. 👍🙂
Every once in a while you see something on here that is clever yet simple, practical and cost efficient.
It’s also evident you take pride in your work-Well done Sir!
Thank you very much, that is praise indeed. It is very gratifying to know people appreciate what I’m doing on the channel and it boosts my enthusiasm to do more similar projects. Thank you. 👍🙂
Lamborghini of car ramps !After all that work looks very good my man .
Thank you so much Palang, I enjoyed making them. They may need a shallower slope though for a Lamborghini 😁.
they look very strong. Awesome .
Thank you, I’m pleased how they turned out. They come with anything I’m driven up them so far including 3 ton LandRover Discovery. 🙂👍
Thanks for taking the time
Thank you so much GX3, that is very much appreciated. It really does help me. 😊👍
That's pretty epic. I wasn't so sure about the gaps you had until the end there. That's pretty clever. Only upgrade I'd add is a solid 2 x 8 that goes vertically to reinforce your diamond plate backstop.
Hi Kaleb, thank you, epic is praise indeed. 😊 You would actually be surprised how strong the the folded checker plate is. I can guarantee if I tried to drive of the end, the ramps would tip up before the the metal bent the other way. It is more there just to know you are at the ramp end. The process of bending the metal makes it stronger. This may seem counter intuitive but initially bending the metal is fairly easy. Trying to straighten though becomes very difficult due to the the crystalline structure of the metal changing during the bending process.
Really pleased you liked the ramps. 👍
@@EverydayWorkshop makes sense. Hadn't considered that point. Duly noted.
I was thinking the same thing. Just to keep from running off the end. Otherwise, this was a brilliant build, wasn't it?
The tool compartments are very nice.
Since I have lots of pallet wood, I will attempt a similar thing.
Thanks!! Good day.
Thanks, glad you like them. Good luck with your build. 👍
Thx for posting this good DIY ramps!
Thank you I’m really pleased you like them. 🙂👍
Excellent production. Thank you.
Thank you very much. I’m really pleased you enjoyed it.
Looks really nice. I'm bulding one too. Congrats and enjoy.
I cant overstate how useful this looks. I'm doing this.
Thank you, I hope your build goes well. 😊👍
Well thought out!
Hi Stan, thank you very much. It was fun building them. 👍🙂
Super pomysł ✍️👍
Thank you, I’m pleased you like it. 🙂👍
Thank you John. I did get a bit carried away with the extras, but they all have a purpose. Good luck with yours.
Dear sir. I enjoyed your video. I would recommend one thing only: don't use gloves near a drill bit. The glove can get wrapped around the drill bit and end up on your finger. That happened to me. Cheers.
Very pleased you enjoyed the video. And thank you for reminding me, it is so easy to become complacent and forget those important safety rules we had drummed into us as an apprentice.
My late father pulled 2 fingers off when a glove became caught in a drill bit.
Also never reach across a blade on a radial miter saw..the blade could bind and take your arm off ..I witnessed it almost happen to a coworker using a radial arm saw.
I like the idea of leaving open sections to reduce weight plus bonus place to hold tools! I must say that putting it together with bolts is crazy overkill. There's no need to ever take it apart so I would glue the pieces together instead. The aluminum sheet metal is also useless. Maybe it will stop the wheels if you go too far but I would rather have a thick piece of Aluminum (or better yet, steel) bolted to the front for a stop. for a For non-slip surface, paint the tops with oil based paint and sprinkle sand on it as it dries.
They do save some weight and give them a certain look which I like. I know the bolts are maybe a bit of overkill, but it is extremely solid and will never go anywhere 😁 and part of the idea was to make an interesting video. Hopefully I succeeded in that regard.
Not sure what you mean about the aluminium checker plate it definitely isn’t useless 🙂. I know you might think it isn’t strong enough as a stop, but honestly that is not the case. Once bent the plate becomes very strong, any vehicle would only roll over it and not flatten it. The non slip adhesive tape I used also works extremely well and makes a neater more professional look imo. Hope you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. 👍🙂
I would suggest putting something to reinforce the upturned aluminum on the top of the ramp. It is not near strong enough to stop a vehicle from rolling forward off the ramp. Either a piece of 2 inch angle iron or a piece of 2 x 6 lumber the size of the full ramp face glued and screwed to the face of the ramp that is also fastened to the upturned aluminum.
Hi Zephaniah, I hope you enjoyed watching the video. Thank you for the advice I appreciate it. You would actually be surprised how strong the the folded checker plate is. I can guarantee if I tried to drive of the end, the ramps would tip up before the the metal bent the other way. It is more there just to know you are at the ramp end. The process of bending the metal makes it stronger. This may seem counter intuitive but initially bending the metal is fairly easy. Trying to straighten though becomes very difficult due to the the crystalline structure of the metal changing during the bending process.
Really pleased you liked the ramps. 👍
Yes! Yes it IS too much!
You see I new it was too much 😉. Hope you enjoyed watching. 👍🙂
These are great! I particularly like the use of grip tape. One thing, since the handles are at the front, you are running over them every time. Does this weaken them at all or it doesn’t matter?
Thank you very much. They seem a bit over the top but everything has a purpose. As regards the handles they are low enough and small enough that the vehicle wheels don’t even touch them. They work great. 🙂👍
You are a BOSS!
😁 Thank you, I’m glad you like it. 🙂👍
The human hammer, nice job.
😁🔨🔨Thank you Paul 👍
What do you think that we capacity of these are? I have a GMC Topkick dump truck that weighs 33,000 pounds with a load of dirt in it do you think I can make a pair of ramps out of wood that would hold that?
Hi Greg, well not these actual ramps. These easily cope with a Land Rover Discovery. But your dump truck is a little heavy for these, 33000 lbs is 16.5 tons in English money. But yes timber ramps of the right size construction and timber will work fine. I started my career as a truck mechanic and we used timber blocks all the time to drive onto and to support it when jacked up. In fact a wide thick timber block is far safer than your average axle stand IMO. Grips the floor and and can be far more stable making you feel much safer working under a heavy vehicle. Hope this helps. 🙂👍
OK sounds good. I will definitely look into making me a pair. Thank you for the awesome response.
What size lumber are you using for the ramps. it looks like 5 pieces of smaller lumber glued togethner.
You are correct, they are actually used structural roofing timbers which I bought in a sale to make a bench out of. (There is a video of the bench construction if your interested) I had plenty left over so thought they would make some good ramps. Can’t remember the dimensions and I’m out at the moment, but will let you know later. 🙂👍
Very nice indeed. I need to make something like this for my car it's so low I can't use any of the ramps on amazon.
Thank you, I’m really pleased you like them. That’s the beauty of making them yourself, the can be bespoke to your vehicle. 🙂👍
Talk about overkill those are beautiful well done.
Hi Paul, thank you very much, they are overkill a little but fun to create. Really pleased you liked them. 👍😊
I like it! That first block that the wheels are attached to could be cut at an angle to make a French cleat to hang these on the wall when not in use.
Hi Steve, that’s a great idea that I didn’t think of. I might just do that. They stand up against a wall at the wheel end at the moment. 😊👍 Very pleased you enjoyed the video.
what's going on with the weird blur bar in the first couple minutes?
Hi Ronnie, thanks for letting me know. I did blur out the first few seconds because I changed the name of the channel a while ago. The blur actually lasts 4:20 so it looks pretty bad. I’ve reverted back to the original so thanks again. 🙂👍
Thank you so much GX3 for your $2.00 “Super Thanks” it is very much appreciated. I intend to put it towards new camera equipment. Presently use mainly my iPhone and it’s very much time for an upgrade. 👍
Thanks for taking the time
A few of you have requested the dimensions to assist in building your own. Check out this video for the car ramp dimensions: th-cam.com/video/XFQODzYYmHA/w-d-xo.html
I hope found the this video both interesting and enjoyable. If you did I really would appreciate it if you would consider subscribing to my channel. A thumbs up would be great too. Thank you. There is more great content here: th-cam.com/play/PLlryvotrcqlQn-5mlxHxRdVzuj3m93jZV.html You may also find this video interesting: th-cam.com/video/JwbqQhP9jrs/w-d-xo.html
Can you please make one for the whole car?
Here are the ideas?
1. Split sections that can be joined together to make a long one. The sloping ramps at the end are detachable.
2. Option to remove the Ramp section under wheels while supporting that part of the car by a jack stand placed between pinch welds and on top of the other section of the Ramp
3. Top piece, the driveable section, of the long ramp can be removed to make it light for storage.
4. Height is the ramp to be around 15 inches.
5. Ramp has a large openings to slide under the car from the side of the ramp.
6. Supporting blocks under the ramp can be placed anywhere along the length of the ramp to make it easier to take the tires off and do suspension work, etc.
Great idea, something I’ll have to think about. 👍🙂
What the heck size lumber are you using looks like your cutting off part of your work bench and using it ???
Hi David, 😊 looks like it yes, it’s actually left overs from building my bench. It’s some 200 x 60 laminated structural roofing timber I bought from a sale.
Do you have any dimensions, lumber looks to be laminated 2" x 3" or so? What are the lengths, I'm thinking 3 at 16", 1 at 36", and 4 at 6" ? Would like to build a set. Thanks for the video.
Hi, I’m glad you liked them. Yes they are laminated. They are actually structural roofing beams which I bought from a country sale to build a workshop bench with. (I’ll post links to the bench build videos if you are interested😊) Your dimensions sound quite close. I plan on uploading a short video with all the sizes in the next couple of days, as other people have also asked for them. Thanks for watching the video. 👍😊
This is the part 1 video documenting the bench build I mentioned: th-cam.com/video/RIe_w0xq-NQ/w-d-xo.html
I just post a video showing the dimensions. If I’ve missed anything please let me know: th-cam.com/video/XFQODzYYmHA/w-d-xo.html
Great job, I just wondering how much you spend on materials and time!
Thanks Marcela, the timber is left over from building a bench, which I bought from an auction. Think I paid around £40 and I still have plenty left. About £20 for coach bolts and £10 for the grip tape. Everything else I already had. In terms of time I’m not really sure but think I built them over a couple of days. There are some links to some of the materials in the description. Hope this helps. 😊
Super Arbeit.
Thank you very much Winfried, I’m really pleased you like it. 😊
Excellent!!!
Thanks Pete, Glad you like it. 👍😊
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Thank you Clerisson, I appreciate yor words, really glad found it useful. 👍😊
i cut the ramp boards at a 45 degree angle makes the tire roll over it easier.
Yeah I nearly did the same but it is debatable whether a vehicle climbs up better. From my experience the tyres can tend to lose grip on a slope, but contrary to what you would think they grip really well on this design. Hope you enjoyed the video. 👍🙂
Nicely done. I'd like to offer some constructive criticism and a few ideas that adhere to the first rule of engineering: Never design yourself into an "oh shit" scenario.
First off, the handles will snap right off as they are in the tires' travel path. A smaller profile tire is almost guaranteed to hit them. Moving them to the sides is a simple fix.
Second, this may seem trivial, but why not use regular bolts? Plus, what if one carriage bolt breaks loose? This assembly relies on the tensile strength of the material in line with the grain (Axis of Least Strength), with the compressive load concentrated into a VERY small area. Wouldn't take much to break loose by splitting the grain apart. Regular bolts and locknuts will do just as well, just countersink the holes enough for a socket. For the tread plate, using countersunk head screws would be fine and keep it tidy.
Third, I'd suggest adding an Anti-tip Countermeasure on the end of the ramp. A block that sits beyond the upturned section of tread plate will do fine. It and its connection to the rest of the structure needs to be VERY strong as it will be taking the entire load of the vehicle in a rather small area if one slightly over-runs the ramp.
Last, how are you addressing and correcting for material warpage? I don't readily have a solution for this, but I did notice these ramps were not sitting square, flush, flat and even during use. With the weight of a vehicle, I'd be concerned about stability on such a critical piece of safety equipment. Movement introduces Velocity which amplifies Force proportionally, increasing stress on the materials.
Thank you I’m pleased you liked them. And thank you for your constructive comments.
Actually the handles are fine if you look closely they are offset and I’ve now had numerous vehicles up these ramps with no issue.
The coach bolts are just clamping the wood together and aren’t really carrying any load, that is carried directly through the wood to the ground. (these are 8.8 and exactly the same as bolts would be)
You would actually be surprised how strong the the folded checker plate is. I can guarantee if I tried to drive of the end, the ramps would tip up before the the metal bent the other way. It is more there just to know you are at the ramp end. The process of bending the metal makes it stronger. This may seem counter intuitive but initially bending the metal is fairly easy. Trying to straighten though becomes very difficult due to the the crystalline structure of the metal changing during the bending process.
Your last point which I do appreciate you making, but I do not think it is an issue at all, any warping or flexing is negligible and is only apparent due to weight transfer as the vehicle is supported by a different section of the ramp. You will get exactly the same effect with a steel ramp.
Thanks again for watching the video and liking them. 🙂 👍
@@EverydayWorkshop Agreed, the actual coach/carriage bolts aren't the issue. It's the surrounding material keeping them from turning in their holes. Add a few years and you're probably going to have a bad day if these ever have to be taken apart. I figure you handled any concerns about the top plate, so no need to worry about it. The ramp tipping forward in the manner you describe was my main concern, hence suggesting to add an anti-tip block at the bottom. As for warpage, I've had the same issue come up with my massively-overbuilt wheel stands. After 3 years, only one still sits flat. I discovered this when trying to use them a few weeks ago and found the rear of the vehicle had walked slightly sideways as a result. It also failed the shake test. Black flag, full stop right there.
I put the car back on the ground and I re-examined the stands. The rear of the car was also about 12" off from where it began. Might only be 3mm of one corner, but that's more than enough for things to go bad. Especially with 2+ tons of BMW or 3 tons of Ford Expedition sitting on them and putting lateral load on them such as breaking a bolt loose. Maybe you have some suggestions on how to correct this?
youre highly skilled at building things that is for sure, but sheesh that 2 inch jump may be a little much for grandmas honda civic right?
Thank you very much. It is actually fine, I’ve used these ramps with several vehicles of varying sizes and they’ve all climbed up very easily. So I’m sure Grandmas Honda Civic would manage just fine 🙂👍
@@EverydayWorkshop oh nice, i seen at the end of the video your volvo made it with just street tires, i wasnt sure if that was awd or something. while you were building it it looked like a huge jump. btw did you ever reinforce the metal that was folded up at the end?
The climb is fairly insignificant really, imagine how your car fairly easily climb a kerb. Absolutely no need to reinforce, a few people have mentioned this. Believe me this checker plate is very strong especially after being bent as the structure of the metal changes increasing its strength and works very well as a stop unless you keep driving ! 🙂👍
@@EverydayWorkshop oh okay cool cheers
OLD Leather Smith here, I have only 1 suggestion, Elevator Bolts would work much better the head is Flat and under the head is still square so they won't turn in the wood. Before Leather business I sold Fasteners 4 a living for 46 years. Great Job.
GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Hi James, great suggestion they would probably work great, I’ll definitely keep them in mind for any future similar projects, although I have quite a few surplus at the moment. 😊
I’m interest to know what you do in the leather business, do you create things?
Thank you very much for the kind words and I’m pleased you enjoyed the video.
@@EverydayWorkshop I do custom only 4 clients and customers, nothing's 4 sale. Yes I put things 2gether, I also carve in 3d. Customers and clients bring pictures, make comments and I ask questions then I produce. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
I love this! The magnetic holders could be more useful on the inside of the ramp though. Just a thought.
Thanks JayPee, I agree they would be useful on the inside, they have to be in the body of the ramp I think thought or they would present a problem storing them. Glad you liked them.
Also the magnetic holders are on the end to act as feet, the same height as the casters.
It keeps getting stuff added 😂
Could have bought a lift 😉
😁 yeah your absolutely right. I would buy a lift if I had the room.
Awesome
Thank you Jessica, it’s great know I’ve managed such a great reaction 😁.
You really got carried away - some good ideas and some just wasteful. (:P
The aluminium corner flip at the front looks like an accident waiting to happen, hope You are very careful there..
Thanks, yeah but they made a half descent video and I enjoyed the process and they do all have a function. 😊👍
@@EverydayWorkshop thanx for the serious answer, I appreciate it. Have fun :)
@@helder4u Forgot to mention the aluminium stop you pointed out. Did mean they don’t look strong enough. They are actually very strong. 😊 Thanks for your concern though. 👍
@@EverydayWorkshop very thoughtful of you to fill in that info, nice.
I like your variable speed palm-peen hammer
Seeing those actions at 04:02 made my hand hurt in sympathy! 🤣 Have been a Diesel mechanic for 20 years but if i did that I would be feeling it for weeks!
Love the ramps though 👍👍
Out cast and Rob. It’s not as bad as it looks, the wood is fairly soft and my palms are built for it anyway 😄. Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it 👍.
Just make a solid block ramp .use 2x8 or 2x10 boards cut at different lengths . Glue and screw together with construction screws. Half the time and half the cost of this vidio.
Use them on a 2500 diesel with no concern of collapsing.
Hi Peter, well there is certainly no concern of these collapsing. I could have made some just as you suggest, that would have been very easy 🙂. They might have been quicker but the video wouldn’t have been as good. In terms cost your version would cost more 😉 as I had everything for these ramps (except the tape) but not for your version. Hope you enjoyed the video though. 🙂👍
Whats the weight?
Do you mean the weight of the ramps or what they can support. The ramps aren’t heavy and they are on wheels🙂. The largest vehicle I’ve had on the is a Land Rover Discovery.
Weight of the ramp
yes very good but do you want us to guess ? It was difficult to give us dimensions ? thanks
Thank you Milton, I didn’t give any dimensions in this video but have recently uploaded this video: th-cam.com/video/XFQODzYYmHA/w-d-xo.html which should help you. 😊👍
I suggest a hole in the first step where a pin can be dropped into a hole in the floor.
People have reported instances where the vehicle has slid one ramp out from under the tyre as the vehicle was climbing the ramp ,and the vehicle underside drops onto the displaced ramp causing damage to the vehicle.
You can put a masonry anchor in the floor , but it isn't strictly necessary.
Thanks for the great suggestion Paul. You’re absolutely correct they can slide out if you are not careful, that’s were skill comes in as you first climb the ramps. Once your on the first step you are fairly stable. In a perfect world an anchor would be great but we would loose the convenience of using them anywhere. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop That's only true of a LSD equipped vehicle. With an open differential , a slight difference in the friction between the ramp and the floor may result in all the power going through one wheel and sending the ramp on its way (assuming the driving wheels are going on the ramps)
Hi Paul, yes LSD vehicles would be easier, but they are only “limited” not locked. The trick is to chose your ground wisely so the grip is even on both ramps and both wheels contact them evenly. This will lessen the chance of a ramp slipping away. This is one of the the advantages of stepped ramps. Drive onto the ramps with a bit of momentum so they sort of roll onto the first step and you shouldn’t have a problem. 👍
When I built my ramps years ago , I took sections of an old semi truck mud flap that I had found alongside of the road and nailed them to the underside of the ramps to prevent the scooting across the floor .
That sounds like a great idea Bob. 👍😊
Sir I will tell you one thing I paid $75 for these plastic rhino ramps and they've worked great they've held up up trucks,suvs,and of course cars but I don't trust them so I always put jack stands underneath but if I had these wooden ramps I would trust these you should really think about selling some
I agree there is nothing like solid timber to make you feel safe. I have thought about selling them, although the present construction is fairly labour intensive. I’m really pleased you like them. 🙂👍
This is all well & good, a valiant effort, but my BIG-G & WIDE-E RHINO RAMPS I purchased several years ago from Pep Boys for the A-MA-ZING price of $20 ( by way of SLICKDEALS ) are doing me just fine.
They have a capacity of 12,000lbs. which is TWICE the entire weight of my INFINITI QX80 ( BEAST! ).
Hi Louis, thank you, I just got carried away making them and it was fun. Those Rhino ramps do look great and would have saved me the work I put into these. Mine do the job very well though so I’m happy. Hope you enjoyed watching. 👍🙂
@@EverydayWorkshop I am sure the ramps you fabricated do the job and by their certain bulk are up to the loading.
I checked the prices of my larger-size ramps & canNOT believe the tremendous increase that has occurred in the last 5-6yrs.
Some retailers have them for $115, but most others are around $60 & up.
The $20 I paid were represented to be half their usual rate.
I don't usually get deals like that.
Your ramps are sure to be MUCH less, plus they offer the satisfaction of a do-it-yourself project filling a need.
Please keep up this informative and rewarding work.
@@SpicyRok7482 Thanks Louis, it seems like everything has gone on the back of all the world events. Although I am sure there is a lot of opportunist profiteering going on. I’ve gone over the top with my ramps (a little 🙂) but I’m sure some much simpler and very strong ramps could be made at a fraction of the price you found. Thanks again for watching. 👍🙂
👍👍👍Thank you
Thanks Pete glad you liked them 👍
What are the Dimentions?
Hi B N, I will try and take the measurements and post them over the weekend. 👍
@@EverydayWorkshop 😉
I just post a video showing the dimensions. If I’ve missed anything please let me know: th-cam.com/video/XFQODzYYmHA/w-d-xo.html
No need to go to all that trouble, over engineered for sure, you'd need a crane just to move them 😄 you could put a 747 fully loaded on those ramps...... no problem !
Hi Colin, Yeah I won’t disagree with you, I did over engineer a touch, but why not. Hopefully they make an entertaining video. They are made from old structural roofing timbers from an old sports hall, and are actually not that heavy. They have wheels too 😁.
I built a simple bench out of the same timber if you are interested. It’s time lapse in two parts.
Part 1 th-cam.com/video/RIe_w0xq-NQ/w-d-xo.html
Part 2 th-cam.com/video/awDRlzClCc4v/w-d-xo.html
Great build… just curious, why did not you bevel cut the ends of each block ramp rather than leaving square edge? Nice touch on the aluminum top with a backstop. Otherwise, a diy heavy duty car ramp …thanks for sharing. 👊😎👍
Hi Charley, glad you liked it. Great question and something I considered when deciding on the design. In my experience it doesn’t make climbing the ramps any more difficult, in fact probably the opposite. You also control your accent this way, and not arriving to quickly 😊 at the top of the ramps. Probably no big issue, just my take on the pros and cons.
Good lord. I’ll buy mine. Too complicated and too expensive.
Haha yeah wouldn’t blame you. Hope you enjoyed watching though. I hope you will give me a like and subscribe. 😊👍
@@EverydayWorkshop no
@@fiouable That’s fine 😊, thanks for watching anyway.
Buy some ramps already!🥱
What. and not have the fun of building them and reading funny comments. Thanks for watching Flint. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop thank you, If I had a workshop I'd probably make some too. 😁
@@flintdavis2 That would be great, definitely aim to get yourself a workshop. 😊
Just don't forget how many bumps it is to the top level.
There's another video which shows a much simpler and more practical design.
th-cam.com/video/2tMp_IBvlbo/w-d-xo.html
😊 your right D not something you want to do. The secret is to lean out of the window as you ascend and make sure you stop in the correct spot.
Yes I’ve already seen that video, he’s made a great set of ramps and I agree they are simple and practical, the hinge ramp was something I contemplated when I made these. Maybe I’ll make another pair that do hinge out of the way. Come on though these are fun 😁
Should of put a hing on it so it swings away from the vehicle so the ramps are out of the way. All that work and forgot one key thing lol. Hing in the middle.
Great idea Joe, I have seen someone do that on TH-cam and it has crossed my mind. Maybe I should modify them. 😊
@@a.melburn You cut the ramps in half and attach a door hinge on both sides, with removable pins. Then you can pivot the ramps out of the way to work under the car.
Is this too much ? Knott > Woods not glued together ! Nuts & Bolts not welded in place !
Ramps could come apart ! LOL
Hi Ricardo, thank you for your comment. I take your point but I f I glued the wood together it wouldn’t be necessary to use 10 mm coach bolts. And I can assure you they are nice and tight and have both a flat washer and “spring washer” so won’t be coming loose any time soon. Hope you enjoyed watching the video though. 🙂👍
The blue trays are neat, but the should be on the inside
Hi Kululv, thanks for commenting but I’m not sure what you mean, on the inside of what?
@@EverydayWorkshop on inside of the ramp, instead of the front. If you work in between the ramps, the sides would be easier to reach, next to where you put the tools
Yes I agree but after using them they are easily reachable. Also I designed them to serve another purpose… I can stand the ramps on their ends for storage as they are exactly the same height as the wheels. Which I think I show in the video. 👍😊
@@EverydayWorkshop i figured, that was likely your reasoning.
the wood could have been a little wider...nice work...
Thank you, I do agree, another inch or two wider would have been better. But I had this timber spare and although not a 100% ideal I new it would do the job, also I had all the another materials, so the project was zero cost. Which I love 😁.
Gravel driveway has entered the chat
😊
The ramps don't look too stable/steady, may be double the width just to be safe ?!
Hi, I understand your concern but they are actually very stable so long as you use solid ground and centre the wheels correctly they are absolutely fine. I would actually have liked them a little wider, but I had this timber spare and new it was suitable. So you see the ramps cost me very little, the only purchase was the grip tape I applied. Thanks for watching the video I hope you enjoyed it. 😊👍
You've got all of that nice equipment, table saw, pillar drill, welder etc but you can't afford a hole punch Hammer 😂😮😅
Plus the amount of tools you needed and time it took, better off buying metal ramps.
Thanks for commenting on my nice equipment BandiMassha, it’s ok but fairly basic. Not sure what you mean by a hole punch hammer (I actually have loads of hammers 😁) I have to disagree about the ramps though, I had great enjoyment and satisfaction making them mostly out of materials I already had, so they cost me very little. Plus I like to think they made a great video subject and if they help anyone who considers making their own that is fantastic. I hope you did enjoy the video. 👍🙂
Other than the high cost of elbow grease ... how much in wood and parts ? I have a huge scrap wood pile at hand ... but this would be something to hand down to that Lil Grease Monkey Grand-Daughter . And then to the next one . Well made . Built to last . ....... so ah....what you charging ?
Yeah there was a fair amount elbow grease, but that’s ok 😊. I actually bought the timber from a country action specifically to build a bench. So I used the surplus to make these. Think I paid around £40 and I still have plenty left. About £20 for coach bolt and £10 for the grip tape. Hadn’t thought selling them, but now you mention it 🤔.
if you are interested the bench build is here (a lot more elbow grease went into this) : th-cam.com/video/RIe_w0xq-NQ/w-d-xo.html
3:58 Don't use hands as hammers.
If you suffer permanent nerve damage you will regret it for the rest of your life.
If you must use a hand as a hammer , use someone else's hand - or their head ,which is heavier and harder
😁 More Great advice Paul but you can’t do everything with a hammer, and I do love them. I have quite a few 😊. You notice I was using one a few seconds after that point.
Thanks for your concern but don’t worry about me though, I think my hands, wrists, arms and shoulders have evolved to take it. (that was tame by the way) I’ve been an engineer since the mid seventies so I’m happy to carry on working this way. You learn to know the point at which the hammer needs to take over. 👍
at this point its cheaper to get a real ramp. also 0 safety for falling over on the last step which would heavily damage the car...
Sure it’s cheaper to buy a ramp but it’s great to have the satisfaction of making your own and it made a great video 🙂. Not sure what you mean about getting a real ramp, I can assure you these are definitely real and much better than the majority out there for sale. With reference to your comment about the car falling off the end you are correct a car could drive over the stops just like a car will climb a kerb. You are possibly thinking they will just bend in which case you would be 100% wrong this checker plate is very strong especially after being bent as the structure of the metal changes increasing its strength and work very well as a stop unless you keep driving ! Thank you for watching and I hope you did enjoy it. I would love you to reply. 🙂👍
JAJAJAJAJJA NO FUNCIONA!!! ... LE FALTÓ UNA CAFETERA!!
Forgot about adding a coffee machine, I will do next time. 😁 👍
Please !! for your own health stop using your hands as a hammer
Thanks for your concern Jim, and it is great advice I I wouldn’t recommend anyone starting to use their hands in this way especially if they don’t normally have a hard hands on physical job. But please don’t worry about me though, I think my hands, wrists, arms and shoulders have evolved to take it. (that was tame by the way) I’ve been an engineer since the mid seventies so I’m happy to carry on working this way. You learn to know the point at which the hammer needs to take over. 👍
You can’t do everything with a hammer, and I do love them. I have quite a few 😊. You will notice I was using one a few seconds after that point.
Or buy the plastic ramps
😁 yeah but what would be the fun in that. I thoroughly enjoyed making these. Hope you enjoyed watching. 🙂👍
Well….dont overshoot it
🙂 don’t worry I won’t. Do you think I might 😁
@ send video if you do
I wanna see
😁 I really don’t see why I would overshoot.
So much waste
Hi, so much waste of what?, I’m a little confused 🙂
I noticed a little editing in the video just when the tries pushed against the folded metal on the top, . . I wonder what happened ?
I just rewatched that bit as I couldn’t remember. Pretty sure I just bent it a bit more if at all then finished it off with hammer and block. That’s all nothing more interesting or funny or I would have left it in. Probably more likely my rubbish editing. 😊 Thanks for watching. 👍
Lots of overkill period
Absolutely Mark, and why not I enjoyed the process and they are actually very useful. 👍😊
Lol, except where it really matters - the stop at the top. Issue isn't strength of the material, but the inadequate height. The height should be significantly greater than the preceding wood "steps", as going past the stop is catastrophic. Better yet would be to eliminate the steps or at least add bevels to the leading edges which would make it more obvious that the stop has been reached, but this would add additional work. Otherwise, one needs to count the steps, and be extraordinarily careful driving up the ramps. IMO, there is simply no justification for not making the stop nearly failsafe when it's so easy to do so.
These are awesome! I am curious as to why you didn't bevel each piece at a 45 degree angle as I see most builders do?