That white connector is a known problem with the TLRs. I just checked mine the other day and green corrosion was leaking out of it. Then I moved the connecter and the bike shut off. So after cleaning everything real good, it was still doing it. Took the female pins out and gave them a little squeeze. 1 of them, I think orange with white stripe, or the all orange one was loose cause intermittent connection. Seems good now. Contact cleaner, wd40 and dieclectric greased where the wires enter the connector. Moisture should have a heard time getting in now. I did every single connection I could find, minus the ones under the tank. Might do that today. These harnesses are poor from the factory and there are ways around it. Charging system is trash, power to coils is trash, headlight wiring is trash, Main ground is trash. Fix all these issues and the bikes love it. Especially the charging system. Mine doesn't get over 12 volts at idle. A Mosfit rectifier with - and + going right to the battery keeps it at 14- 14.5 volts. Where it should be in the first place. Stock TLRs don't start charging the battery until a certain rpm. There is also a triumph recitifier wiring harness that is strait plug and play for the mosfit rectifier. Just have to put a inline fuse on the +. Now all I need is the mosfit and charging mod will be done. Lithium battery is also a very good thing to do.
Sounds like you got things under control. Performance machines often require lots of maintenance. Good luck with your ride and hope you have many more miles and smiles
Im in the uk and had a VERY dangerous wiring issue with my 2000 TLR, out of the blue while ridung at speed one day it cut onto 1 cylinder for several seconds then just as sudden went back onto 2, this was hairy as it made the bike lurch forward and lift its front wheel as i was hurtling along...it took weeks to find out it was these STUPIDLY located blocks...we get a LOT more rain in the UK than you do in the usa !!... they were absolutely covered in verdigris....once cleaned it solved the problem 90% ...ive still had, on the odd occasion had the same issue. .it really pisses me off as it totally ruins the ride on an otherwise very capable machine..its on my mind when cornering at speed, 4 cylinders can get away with it, twins virtually stop dead...its horrible...i believe suzuki actually refused to admit to this issue....anyway...i still own and love the thumpin bastard....great bike...considerin ✌👌
Try pulling the coils and cleaning the ground connections to the frame. Also the plug wires can trap water. Also the positive and negative cables from the battery(both ends). I live in Florida and it rains about as much as you Brits. Got to love the Gulf Stream weather. Use lots of dialectic grease on your wire connectors
Thanks, i actually changed coils, cleaned a few connections etc, but i'll go over some of your ideas, at one point i had its injectors out and all kinds of bits on the floor...one pain in the arse, the air box assembly has about 1000 screws 😂...cheers 🍻
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 the fuses look okay' the starter relay fuse which holds 30amp is also ok. Im using a 12v car battery to test w jump cables? I donot w all my bikes when im testing. This bike had a shitty start when i bought it. Never rode it' i replaced the fuel pump (ebay item) started for 2 min and died. Injectors were used also form ane bay item. Im scratching my head w this thing now amd im pretty good w figuring out bikes eventually but this TL is worse then my mother in law lol
@@michaelpassionsgarage356 this bike is notorious for having electronics issues. Check inside the electrical connections. Each wire has a male then the other side female. The female side gets opened up and connection is lost. Isolate each component and connections
Does it have any aftermarket lights installed? Or anything electrical added to the system, usb charger or Bluetooth device? Check all the ground cable to frame for corrosion or loose connections. What is the voltage of the battery with key off? Key on? While cranking the engine? With engine running lights off? With engine running lights on. If all these are good check every wire in the system etc
The regulator/rectifier is responsible for the amount of voltage sent back to the battery. It's the smaller black box under the seat underneath the ECU. They make aftermarket basically plug and play units that run cooler and much more efficiently. The only thing is you may have to do a little splice to attach the plug unit to the 3 power stator wires
That white connector is a known problem with the TLRs. I just checked mine the other day and green corrosion was leaking out of it. Then I moved the connecter and the bike shut off. So after cleaning everything real good, it was still doing it. Took the female pins out and gave them a little squeeze. 1 of them, I think orange with white stripe, or the all orange one was loose cause intermittent connection. Seems good now. Contact cleaner, wd40 and dieclectric greased where the wires enter the connector. Moisture should have a heard time getting in now. I did every single connection I could find, minus the ones under the tank. Might do that today. These harnesses are poor from the factory and there are ways around it. Charging system is trash, power to coils is trash, headlight wiring is trash, Main ground is trash. Fix all these issues and the bikes love it. Especially the charging system. Mine doesn't get over 12 volts at idle. A Mosfit rectifier with - and + going right to the battery keeps it at 14- 14.5 volts. Where it should be in the first place. Stock TLRs don't start charging the battery until a certain rpm. There is also a triumph recitifier wiring harness that is strait plug and play for the mosfit rectifier. Just have to put a inline fuse on the +. Now all I need is the mosfit and charging mod will be done. Lithium battery is also a very good thing to do.
Sounds like you got things under control. Performance machines often require lots of maintenance. Good luck with your ride and hope you have many more miles and smiles
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 haha yeah I've been researching the hell out of things. It's old, I want to know how to improve it.
Tattoo on hand meaning ? Seeing if part of a group I was in .
@@hoytskyrme5315 tattoo is what it is and only those that know understand
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 I have 2 dots. I got one of these TL ‘s was a piece when I got slowly rebuilding
Im in the uk and had a VERY dangerous wiring issue with my 2000 TLR, out of the blue while ridung at speed one day it cut onto 1 cylinder for several seconds then just as sudden went back onto 2, this was hairy as it made the bike lurch forward and lift its front wheel as i was hurtling along...it took weeks to find out it was these STUPIDLY located blocks...we get a LOT more rain in the UK than you do in the usa !!... they were absolutely covered in verdigris....once cleaned it solved the problem 90% ...ive still had, on the odd occasion had the same issue. .it really pisses me off as it totally ruins the ride on an otherwise very capable machine..its on my mind when cornering at speed, 4 cylinders can get away with it, twins virtually stop dead...its horrible...i believe suzuki actually refused to admit to this issue....anyway...i still own and love the thumpin bastard....great bike...considerin ✌👌
Try pulling the coils and cleaning the ground connections to the frame. Also the plug wires can trap water. Also the positive and negative cables from the battery(both ends). I live in Florida and it rains about as much as you Brits. Got to love the Gulf Stream weather. Use lots of dialectic grease on your wire connectors
Thanks, i actually changed coils, cleaned a few connections etc, but i'll go over some of your ideas, at one point i had its injectors out and all kinds of bits on the floor...one pain in the arse, the air box assembly has about 1000 screws 😂...cheers 🍻
What color is the 1997 model suziki gsx camshaft sensor cable
Not sure
That body paint style looks like a "2000 not a '2002.
Mine shows the following on the cluster : 61,71,72, 73
Just cleaned the injectors
I had spark but no start, unless I sprayed starter fluid. but now I have no spark, any idea as to what went wrong?
Possibly a blown fuse or a dead battery. Need more info to be sure
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 the fuses look okay' the starter relay fuse which holds 30amp is also ok. Im using a 12v car battery to test w jump cables? I donot w all my bikes when im testing. This bike had a shitty start when i bought it. Never rode it' i replaced the fuel pump (ebay item) started for 2 min and died. Injectors were used also form ane bay item. Im scratching my head w this thing now amd im pretty good w figuring out bikes eventually but this TL is worse then my mother in law lol
@@michaelpassionsgarage356 this bike is notorious for having electronics issues. Check inside the electrical connections. Each wire has a male then the other side female. The female side gets opened up and connection is lost. Isolate each component and connections
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 i appreciate u thank u. Ill get back to u
Does this produce a 24/25 error code? I might have this issue with my 98 model 🤔
Not sure of the code but it definitely causes a no power/no start issue.
The 24/25 code relates to no power at the coils as far as I can tell from a quick online search
Is it a big job to replace the coils? I'm a bit of an amateur in the DIY department 😬
Wire colors of aesthetic milis sensor
Not sure what your comment is referring to
mine only produces 12.2V even after replacing stator and regulator ii can not run with lights,done 5 bikeshops not evenone solved the problem
Does it have any aftermarket lights installed? Or anything electrical added to the system, usb charger or Bluetooth device? Check all the ground cable to frame for corrosion or loose connections. What is the voltage of the battery with key off? Key on? While cranking the engine? With engine running lights off? With engine running lights on. If all these are good check every wire in the system etc
The regulator/rectifier is responsible for the amount of voltage sent back to the battery. It's the smaller black box under the seat underneath the ECU. They make aftermarket basically plug and play units that run cooler and much more efficiently. The only thing is you may have to do a little splice to attach the plug unit to the 3 power stator wires