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Fitch Painting & Repair LLC
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2013
Factory trained motorcycle technician. Licensed mobile mechanic that works on most makes and models. Advice is always free
1986 Honda Shadow VT700C carburetor removal
removal of the carburetors. Please follow the service manual for proper instructions. I have both oem and Clymer repair manual. the Clymer has more information and better pictures. Stay tuned for the installation video
มุมมอง: 157
วีดีโอ
1959 Cushman super eagle clutch part-3
มุมมอง 1453 หลายเดือนก่อน
Getting ready to do more repairs and found the new clutch plates are damaged
'59 Cushman super eagle part #2 clutch
มุมมอง 2253 หลายเดือนก่อน
removed and cleaned the clutch but it is still slipping. stay tuned until the end for a test ride
50cc 2-stroke dirt bike
มุมมอง 1065 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bad rear wheel bearing, brakes and carburetor repair
1980 FLH dragging clutch
มุมมอง 2465 หลายเดือนก่อน
Dragging clutch and a few other issues to sort out
125cc Atv no start solved
มุมมอง 3765 หลายเดือนก่อน
Forgot to turn on the fuel petcock but she definitely runs great
Coolster 125cc quad electrical issues
มุมมอง 2905 หลายเดือนก่อน
Coolster 125cc quad electrical issues
‘96 Vulcan Classic 1500 with sidecar
มุมมอง 2567 หลายเดือนก่อน
Added the sidecar to the project bike.
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 finally running right
มุมมอง 5258 หลายเดือนก่อน
Missing a small washer and o-ring caused a major performance issue. Learning something everyday is the goal. I’m sure all the other parts helped the bike run better. Looking forward to many more miles and smiles 😎
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 carburetor issues
มุมมอง 1.8K9 หลายเดือนก่อน
Lean condition caused by a suspected intake leak
‘96 Vulcan classic 1500 transmission repair
มุมมอง 7939 หลายเดือนก่อน
Finally off the lift and ready for the open road. 12 miles of test riding and no leaks so far. Need fresh fuel and a tag.
‘96 Vulcan 1500 Classic transmission update
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‘96 Vulcan 1500 Classic transmission update
‘96 Vulcan 1500 Classic engine repair
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‘96 Vulcan 1500 Classic engine repair
‘96 Vulcan 1500 Classic 2nd gear repair
มุมมอง 49310 หลายเดือนก่อน
‘96 Vulcan 1500 Classic 2nd gear repair
96 Vulcan Classic 1500 bad 2 gear 01/19/24
มุมมอง 60411 หลายเดือนก่อน
96 Vulcan Classic 1500 bad 2 gear 01/19/24
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 transmission repair update
มุมมอง 33311 หลายเดือนก่อน
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 transmission repair update
1963 and 1967 Triumph barn finds start up of both bikes at the end of the video
มุมมอง 2.5K11 หลายเดือนก่อน
1963 and 1967 Triumph barn finds start up of both bikes at the end of the video
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 transmission 2nd gear repair 12/18/2023
มุมมอง 536ปีที่แล้ว
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 transmission 2nd gear repair 12/18/2023
1996 Vulcan classic 1500 bad 2nd gear 12/16/23
มุมมอง 326ปีที่แล้ว
1996 Vulcan classic 1500 bad 2nd gear 12/16/23
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 2nd gear repair 12/15/2023
มุมมอง 160ปีที่แล้ว
1996 Vulcan Classic 1500 2nd gear repair 12/15/2023
‘98 FXDWG carburetor and intake rebuild start up
มุมมอง 138ปีที่แล้ว
‘98 FXDWG carburetor and intake rebuild start up
Hi, I recently had the same problem. I own a 1996 VN1500, and I’m going crazy trying to find a capable mechanic. They told me the cost exceeds €2,000, but they’re not sure it can be fixed. Unfortunately, I don’t trust them, and I can’t find any experts on this. Do we really need to take the entire engine apart?
Unfortunately yes you have to disassemble the engine to fix the transmission on this bike. New parts are not available and you’re going to need to find the correct engine gasket kit. The ‘96 is a 4 speed transmission. All after ‘98 are a five speed except the Vulcan 88( 4 speed up to 1999). Message me if you have more questions
Mine shows the following on the cluster : 61,71,72, 73 Just cleaned the injectors
This video hits home.I own a 1996 Vulcan classic 1500 D.Bought it new .It drives me crazy with this same problem.My softail never but the Vulcan always.It just did it today.Good luck.
I’ve heard there’s a factory authorized repair on these. Involves new valves and head work and they added a coolant line to the carburetor. You can have your vin checked at a local dealership. If it’s never been touched it could qualify for the dealership to do the work and provide the parts. Mine has had previous head work and doesn’t qualify. Going to replace the factory air filter assembly. Hopefully this helps cool the carburetor. The carburetor is tucked in so far between the heads. My theory is it’s too hot and causes the hiccups and backfiring under load at low rpm
They are one of the tightest to get the carburetors out, shitty design. Good video though!
I finally found a set of new/used upper manifolds. Also need to change the main jet and jet needle jet height. Stay tuned for a new video coming soon
Thank you from Poland 🖐
@@750UT I’m about to replace the upper carburetor boots and rebuild the carburetors once again. I finally found a set of used ones that are in really good condition. Stay tuned for more videos coming soon
Playlist has the entire project. Hit like, subscribe and leave a comment
Looks almost identical to the one I had. I had a separate transmission
Thanks for the video. Saves me from buying one of these bikes. ... *Whew*
@@a.b1266 they are fun to ride and reliable but parts can be hard to find.
So cool! Can’t wait for the next update
@@miriamfitch4483 working hard on it but it’s so HOT in the garage
That's a familiar sight Triumph with the primary cover off ! My first Triumph was a 1963, first year of "unit" construction and they had a few bug's to work out . That was forty years ago and i had a lot more Triumphs since then, good Bikes. Stay away from 1963 models you will be better off . Triumph makes the Best looking Choppers. Good luck from Tennessee.
@@duanetrivett750 they were a fun project. Picked up a’67 in a custom frame and a’63 with a’66 engine installed. Got them both running and sold them
Cushmans are notoriously cold hearted! Had one as a kid and learned to kickstart the old rip and it sometimes took a good bit. Carbs were easily the issue
I’m learning the hard way. Blood sweat and tears.
Missing the actual doing.
@@sigmalawpenske this is not a how to channel. Just documenting projects for customers and for my future reference
Back together without showing the reassembly.
@@sigmalawpenske if you need help or advise just ask a question.
Came here to see what you did to get to the start of this video. Can't find one.
@@sigmalawpenske watch all of my videos and you will most likely find what you are looking for. If you have a specific question I’m willing to answer it. Thanks for visiting my channel
Do you have a update on this ?
Yes I made an update video on this. Clutch cover was warped and had to be replaced
cheap crap
@@Sigurd651 it is cheap but easy and cheap to repair. Perfect for teaching children how to ride
Do those plastic gaskets even come off? I've get a set of replacement diaphragms but I'm too scared to attempt prying them off bc the original diaphragms look decent enough, save a bit of warping.
No they don’t. They are pressed together and the metal edge on the slide is rolled over. If you cut them you can’t put a new one on. I had to find a used set
I,ve got a 1996 VN800, lost 2 nd gear… I just ride it like that.. 1st to 3rd…no problem.
@@peterrose7329 good luck with that method. Something is wrong and can lead to more damage or possibly locking up the engine while riding
Nice little bike for 300 or less mabey used any more not shure if its worth it
Parts are cheap on Amazon and they are fairly simple to work on
What i do with the top air boots is a boil them in water till soft and roll them on one side of them and put them into the frame and it gives enough room to get the carburetor back it. And yea those uppper boots are hard to find luckly i found a pair a few years ago
This might work for a good set. Mine are already damaged and can’t be done that way. The good news is I have located a very good set of used ones. Will post a new video when I do the install
Where’s part 2?😡
@@thomascyganiak5946 ended up having to redo this project. The new seals failed and had to buy new ones. Check my page for the update
‘96 Fxdwg fork seals and bushings
Tattoo on hand meaning ? Seeing if part of a group I was in .
@@hoytskyrme5315 tattoo is what it is and only those that know understand
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 I have 2 dots. I got one of these TL ‘s was a piece when I got slowly rebuilding
My intake boots are pristine brand new carb runs fine (almost) with choke on and at idle but when I put in first with choke off it has almost no power and I can’t even shift into 2nd
@@anthonymatteson9499 might need the carburetor cleaned. Sounds like jets are clogged or the diaphragm for the slide is damaged. Does it run rough or cough spit or pop while trying to accelerate?
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 i just had it professionally cleaned last week as I thought that was the issue, it runs fine with no air filter on but then when I put one on it idles great but accelerating issues happen and spits and sputters and back fires and when I shut it off after it get nice and warm a flame shoots out the exhaust
@@anthonymatteson9499 sounds like it is running very rich. Does it have a smell of gas or is fuel dripping from the breather? Empty the fuel tank and check for contamination like water or rust. The float level could be set incorrectly. Professionally done doesn’t necessarily mean it was done correctly or there could be another issue
Dude I’m having an issue with no spark on my 2000 tLR and I’m suspecting my kill switch or the connector. I have to confirm but I have changed everything else so far. What a pain this has been.
Electric gremlins are by far the hardest thing to diagnose. Don’t forget to check the fuses and the ground to the coils. It cranks but no start with no spark at the plugs? Check that the battery has at least 12.7 vdc. Good luck
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 I figured it out bad connection with the old white factory plug. Cut it all out one by one and put a new 16 pin connector to hopefully stop any future problems with that plug fingers crossed.
@@unknownamigo0 lots of movement with the way the wires are installed on that bike. Leave some slack and use dialectic grease
Did you find any new upper rubber boots? I have a 1986 750 with a split rubber boot.. 😢
I did find a set of used ones that are in good condition. Haven’t installed them yet
what ended up being the differences between the 83-85 slides and the ones in the 86? were they the same diameter and length?
The 86 is much bigger diameter and length
That white connector is a known problem with the TLRs. I just checked mine the other day and green corrosion was leaking out of it. Then I moved the connecter and the bike shut off. So after cleaning everything real good, it was still doing it. Took the female pins out and gave them a little squeeze. 1 of them, I think orange with white stripe, or the all orange one was loose cause intermittent connection. Seems good now. Contact cleaner, wd40 and dieclectric greased where the wires enter the connector. Moisture should have a heard time getting in now. I did every single connection I could find, minus the ones under the tank. Might do that today. These harnesses are poor from the factory and there are ways around it. Charging system is trash, power to coils is trash, headlight wiring is trash, Main ground is trash. Fix all these issues and the bikes love it. Especially the charging system. Mine doesn't get over 12 volts at idle. A Mosfit rectifier with - and + going right to the battery keeps it at 14- 14.5 volts. Where it should be in the first place. Stock TLRs don't start charging the battery until a certain rpm. There is also a triumph recitifier wiring harness that is strait plug and play for the mosfit rectifier. Just have to put a inline fuse on the +. Now all I need is the mosfit and charging mod will be done. Lithium battery is also a very good thing to do.
Sounds like you got things under control. Performance machines often require lots of maintenance. Good luck with your ride and hope you have many more miles and smiles
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 haha yeah I've been researching the hell out of things. It's old, I want to know how to improve it.
Your pulley is tweaked. A lot of hard pulls does that. Change pulley and bolts.
It is not the pulley. It was the rubber engine mounts. The rear stabilizer was completely torn and the front was going bad as well
❤Looks great!!!
Thanks
What kind of seat is that?
Stock seat off of a late 90’s Suzuki murauder seat. Slightly modified on the bottom to fit the frame rails and added a clamp to mount it to the cross rail under the back of the seat
Wow!!! You really like doing things the hard way. I sure hope you are working on your own bike. I would NEVER pay 4hrs to remove the carb and who knows how long to reassemble it. I own an 86' vt700c and it takes maybe 10min to pull the carb. Remove ALL cables/lines going to the carb first (choke cables, fuel, vacuum, throttle cables). And then you can start freeing the carb. As for the boots, you undue all the boot clamps top and bottom. Then you use a hot air gun to warm the upper boots (to just almost to hot to hold). You should be able to squeeze it with your fingers. Then use a large pair of channel locks to squeeze the middle of the upper boots and pull out. Some soft twisting might be needed (don't force it). Once the uppers are out. Lift the carb up and remove the lowers. Then slide the carb sideways and out to remove. Just that simple. You do the reverse to install. A small L shaped pick can get the last bit on the upper boots but DO NOT POKE A HOLE IN THE BOOT. It should pretty much go on with just wiggling it. The pick is a last resort. You will need to warm the upper boots again to get them on. They have to almost taco to get started. Start them from the front and work them to the back. I would never take all that crap off to work on the carbs. That is the scam that some high dollar shops do to charge more shop time at over $100 an hour. I have worked on my carbs several times and always down it the way I described.
If it works for you then do it. What you seem to have missed is the boots are damaged and can’t be manipulated that way or more damage will happen. If you are able to find these upper boots to replace them I would gladly try your method. Used ones are hard to find and new ones are unavailable. And yes this is my personal bike I’ve been working on since it was new. The motor has been off the frame many times. First time after running over a pedestrian and totaling the bike. Thanks for your comment and info on your experience with the VT700c shadow. Many more miles and smiles
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 I have even used that method on split boots, too. You crack it worse because it is cold. The heat takes that risk away. The heat excites the rubber molecules and allows them to move more without losing cohesion. I have probably 5 extra upper boots and so I wasn't afraid to experiment to find the best way. Including when the boot is damaged. I have both professional and personal experience working on bikes and quads.
@@Tinkerbell227 still haven’t solved my problem but thanks for your advice. What works for one project doesn’t necessarily work on another. I’m not telling anyone how to do anything. Or trying to prove how much experience I have. Provide positive feedback or info or move along. If you have so many extra parts than I guess you have room to make mistakes. Donations are welcome
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 My business is to small for donations. $50 a boot plus shipping. Shelton's Odd Jobs & Oddities LLC.
I wonder what happened to my 67 chopper triumph. It had red and orange flames on the gas tank, custom made handlebars that went up back and then out to the sides, no speedometer because the guy that built the bikes attracted from its looks, 10 inch chrome extensions on the front forks. It was a 500 trophy but I was told that it had been bored out to about 577 if that’s possible.
So happy you got her straightened out!!!💖🎉😎 Looks great!!!
Going to mount a sidecar to it after I change the oil and full service. Horn and fuel gauge are not working but I’ll sort that out soon. Stay tuned for more of the project
I had the 2000/1500 Vulcan.When I put my Vance and Hines pipes on I had to adjust the fuel air mixture.On a. carberator it was bigger jets.Fuel inj. was a fuel/air regulator chip.I had the injector chip.
M.D.
That's Dr. FINCH
TH-cam @Fitchpaintingrepairllc
We never had any Carb issues with it until I changed out the fuel pump. It would idle rough in cold weather until it warmed up. When my nephew changed the head gasket, that was all he did and it ran fine. Shortly after that we stopped riding it because my husband had shoulder surgery and the transmission issue. We bought it back in 2007 and never had any carb issues, just changed fibers&steels then that head gasket leaking a little oil. After sitting for a year, I put a new battery in and tried to crank it up and it was like no gas was flowing, that’s why I changed the fuel pump, that helped but was still sputtering, I rode her a few times and has a lot of backfiring and bogging down. Unfortunately I am not attuned to notice as keenly when it would do this, but I did notice a few times at about 60mph it would loose power, it didn’t stall, but seemed to run better 45-50mph.
Still sorting out this issue with the bike. I found a factory authorized repair might need to be done to correct it properly. It involved head work as well as carb work. It seems to be a known issue with the '96-'97 model. Do you know if it ever got a recall service check/repair? The bike starts, idles, runs and rides great. Just has a stumble at low RPM excelleration like from 50-60mph. Also does it if making a right-hand turn going slow in 2nd gear then rolling on the throttle slowly. It never seems to do it if riding aggressively or keeping the rpms up a bit. Any feed-back would be helpful
@ Hi, sorry to hear it is still having some issues. We bought it second hand, it was 9 yrs old, low miles. We never had any engine/carb problems, it always ran great. Had to choke it to start in cold weather. We had to replace the steels and fibers. We never received any recall notice from Kawi. The man we got it from didn’’t mention any recall work. No stalling or bogging down. We really enjoyed it and had many trouble free years. That fuel pump was a cheap amazon part, not sure if it meets the fuel pressure demands of the carb? Just grasping???
@ the fuel pump is next on the list of suspects. I took the sidecar off of it and put it on my ‘96 wide glide. I have heard many complaints about the aftermarket fuel pumps for these bikes. Has to do with a ground controlled by the cdi box. Did the original pump fail or just replaced it just in case? Pressure is within spec testing at the carburetor inlet
@ Just in case, I believe the old one was in the bucket of parts I sent with you.
Just rewatched this video and noticed that hesitation while accelerating the throttle. Working on correcting this as it is a bad hesitation and loss of power just off idle. Almost like the mid range circuit isn’t working. Rebuilt the carburetor with new jets and air cut diaphragm. Also a new accelerator pump diaphragm. All carburetor passages cleaned and checked. After all that the issue was still there. Working on replacing the intake manifold and o-rings. Stay tuned for more info and updates
Very good analysis! First thing I check with a vaccum test at 2500 rpm will tell the story. Great video
Thank you and I’ll post a follow up after I install the new manifold and gaskets.
Glad the transmission is resolved! You are an amazing mechanic!!!💪🔧😎
still having issues with the carburetor. I’ve completely rebuilt it and replaced the intake manifold and o-rings. Looks like the carburetor has a plugged passage. The bike runs great but it stumbles just off idle. When riding it looses power when accelerating slowly at low rpm’s. Say when turning in 2nd gear then accelerating. Or when riding in top gear at low rpm’s and trying to accelerate. I’m ordering a new carburetor and with follow up afterwards. If you have any info on the carburetor service or can confirm if the bike did this previously. All the electronics look to be in good condition or new. Do you have more info on the head work that was done?
Primary!
primary? Not sure what you are referring to.
It's awesome seeing someone actually working on these old metric twins. Most shops won't go anywhere near them. Least in my city
Old bikes seem to be my thing. Do care about restoration, only getting them back on the road. Many more miles and smiles
Man you got her looking brand new!
Congratulations....It sounds great!
Thank you. It was a lot of work but fun
❤Oh man!! She looks and sounds so good!!!!❤🎉😊
Mr.Fitch you are truly a skilled and knowledgeable MC mechanic!!!💪
Thank you and please pass the word. Like subscribe and share.
❤
😅
I have a shifting drum I can send you
I have already got the parts I needed and the bike is almost back together
My VN2000 second gear. Clashes from 1st to 2nd. Does not jump out of gear. No debris in oil changes. If revved between 1st and 2nd. With clutch in changes with little to no clashing any advise regards 🇦🇺
If it shifts fine with a blip of the throttle the engine idle could be set too low or high. Possibly the shift control arm is out of adjustment or the shifter paw and detent are damaged @@Paul-g9c6m
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 thanks for your advice. Ride safe 👌
I have a question. I have a 1996 vn1500e and my 1st gear skips at any more than putting around. Do you knkw where i can get a new 1st gear. Or if it even is that? If you could get back to me that would be awesome.
Having huge problems getting the crank gear off and the cases apart
How did you split that cases !!!!
Tap tap tap after removing all necessary parts and bolts
@@fitchpaintingrepairllc9871 how bout the primary gear mine only moves doesn’t slide off
@@prestonsmith6675 the big nut on the out put shaft? I would recommend strapping it down to the lift or workbench. Use an air impact or a 3-4ft piece of pipe on the breaker bar. To hold it in place you need the special hook tool. I Locked the transmission gear with a cooper washer. I would recommend getting the service manual as well
Great video!
Thanks!
How much would a job like this cost.? I think I’m having the same issue on my Vulcan 1500
Depends on what is actually wrong and if the parts can be found to fix it. $1500 just for the labor
How many miles driven for this transmission?
Not sure as the speedometer was not work when I bought the bike