Weigh the trailer axles and refer to a load and inflation table for your tire specification to determine the correct cold inflation pressure for single loading.
Balancing the wheel/tire combo takes a LOT of vibration out of the combo which can prolong their life. Plus, even with independent suspension, helps keep vibrations inside the RV to a minimum.
Yes, and that is what I am going for now. Even today (yesterday) driving I felt some weird vibration that I need to look into. I think it may have been the tires hitting the high level on inflation.
Centramatic Wheel weights will balance the the whole Wheel assembly I tried to balance mine they said they would have to add alot of weight to achieve Centramatic is made in USA look it up
I can't fond itnon their site, what is max pressure on these wheels? I used Alcoas on a horse trailer and when Inhad too many tire problems I upgraded to 16 ply/LRH 235/80r16 tires and ran them at 105 (120psi max load pressure) i had cracks like that in the same mid section area. Those were trailer wheels but 80 psi rated. I got new wheels and had no problems since.
Where did you find the max load pressure? Is it on the side of your tires? I'm looking on mine and so far can't find it as a number -- se it as a statement, but they don't mention the PSI. (I may be blind!)
See if you can replace with steel rims with hub caps, yes I am old fashioned, but steel rims do not fail. Beauty and reliability are two different things.
Just looked at video again. Wheels are fine on weight for the axle. The weight looks to indicate 4850lbs and your max cold inflation should be 123psi. Unless you weigh at each wheel independent, I would run no less than 120. I run 123 because I don’t know how much weight is on each side of the trailer.
I'm double checking all the ratings verses actual and so far I am good on wheel and tire as you mentioned. The wheels are actually rated for 6005 not the 3960 that I had mentioned in the video. I will be doing an update video once I have all my facts confirmed.
Gross vehicle weight/current weight divided by number of tires divided by 36 equals optional tire pressure. Our triple axel at 20k is 92psi. You are overinflated and it seems like the wheel torque is super high also.
Gross weight of the RV on or off hitch? Using the formula you provided its either 132 or 114, which both seem reasonable, given the 123 max cold spec. I like the 114 better. The torque was recommended by MorRyde as well as the wheel manufacturer. Do you have a source you can refer me to for the torque info your basing your understanding that the torque is high? Thank you for the info!
When they sent replacement rim was it exactly the same? I mean will it fail too? We just had this happen this morning on day 3 of an 18 day trip. Lost about 8 hours trying to find a place to even diagnose it then I suggested using rim from spare so we could at least maybe get to the place we are staying for 9 days. Lol!
He Kim...I responded to you on FB, but for the benefit of others I am responding here as well. They did send the exact same make/model wheel, but of course there is no telling other than time will tell, if it will fail again. My guess is that they may gave had a bad production run in late 2021 early 2022, and that is why they are replacing them so quickly with no questions asked. I have no way of knowing that for sure - its just my guess. In any event they are quick to process the claims with no hassle and get them shipped out quickly. We only waited 2-3 days in each case.
I have Broke 6 of them, every time it was on a Jacknife or on a u turn, my trailer is pretty heavy around 21K, I try to not make super sharp turns anymore, or will have to go to the 19.5 steel rim might be my next option, but the trailer will not look good with them,
@@okletsgorv It is on a toyhauler, and both blew out in a hard turn, Rims made by Sendel, Sendel sent me the new style rims about 4 months ago, 3 was leaking around the back bead that was cracked, one had a flat and eat the outer bead, so not really there fault, one made a U turn and in the middle of the U turn the rear blew out, the other was also the rear, when Jackknifing backwards it blew out the back ring with full air pressure, and when the ring blew apart, it went into the water tank.
What wheels do you have? The tires you are showing indicate Copper RHT 215/75R17.5, but you show a 16'' wheel. Also, the website image of the tiger wheel doesn't match the wheel you installed. The wheel on the website shows (6) major spokes while the wheel you installed shows (4) major spokes with (4) minor spokes. The wheel you seem to have doesn't appear to be located on the website and thus the weight ratings are not provided either. I am curious if you are exceeding the ratings on the wheels from a load, inflation pressure and tandem axle setup. The side loading on a tandem axle setup can be quite large during turns, especially tight turns.
Right? I mean even in my semi trucks (granted different tires) max was like 110.... I mean it's gotta be a struggle to find something to pump them up to 150!
Ya, I am going to look at that. I probably was informed incorrectly by someone that I thought was an authority on the subject. Know better now. If you have a link handy for the spec please post for the benefits of others.
@@okletsgorv The max pressure will be listed on the sidewall. Since you have a fairly static weight on the camper, and the higher the air pressure the rougher it rides, I'd run 10-15psi under max at least, because pressure will increase with heat running down the road. You can see it on your truck too if you've got tpms on it, set them all at 45psi drive a few hours an they'll be at 48-49psi. (roughly). Thats why on some big trucks you'll see stickers that say inflate to xxxpsi cold, they are accounting for the added pressure that comes with heat in the tires. There may be a sticker somewhere on the camper that lists the suggested tire pressure. I would think running those at that high a pressure is gonna shake the dang thing apart and might explain the cracked wheels. I could be totally off base here, but having grown up in a shop, driven semi's and operating heavy machinery for a living, that would be some interesting new tech that somehow slipped by me. lol
@@okletsgorv Yeah I'd run a little below that. If you've been running them at 150 that might explain the cracked wheels. Certainly other conditions may have been the culprit, we all know they don't make things like they used to, and in the name of weight savings alot of parts are now far weaker for it.
I really don't have enough experience or knowledge to even speculate on that, but some research I have done suggest that because each wheel can potentially be subjected to more stress because each take the stress independently -- there is some potential for that, but there is nothing I found that suggest that is a common or well known issue. The concept of IS is that it is to give a smoother ride and better handle shock and stress, so that contradicts the idea that IS would be the potential problem. The most probable causes are: Improper Load Balancing: If the load is not evenly distributed, certain wheels might experience more stress, leading to fractures. Component Wear and Tear: Over time, components of the independent suspension can wear out, potentially causing uneven load distribution and increased stress on the wheels. Manufacturing Defects: The wheels themselves might have inherent defects or may not be designed to handle the specific dynamics of your independent suspension setup. I'm going to go with quality of the wheel and that it is probably under rated for the job its been forced to do.
Yes, Not over on the wheels or tires. I weigh two times a year -- typically after long stays and significant changes to cargo. We are full time. I weigh with trailer on and off, so I can calculate all weights individually and compare WR to actuals for all components. I have a part 2 video in the works. Stay tuned. Thank you for watching.
What size of tire do you have, it looks like 17.5 on the side of your tire? Does the sticker on your RV indicate 140psi for pressure? Just curious. Interesting video.
So I must have been mistaken on the version of Tiger wheel that I showed. I am researching that again. The side of the RV shows cold inflation pressure of 123PSI.
@@okletsgorv the pressure on the sidewall is ALWAYS the cold pressure for maximum load. A tire like that will increase about 5 to 7 lbs at highway speed. 140 lbs is over inflation
This may sound a bit harsh, but to answer your question in the title " Are we safe?" No Sir, you are unsafe. I'd say 125 is still too high for your trailer weight. For example a 3/4 or 1 ton truck is 80 psi when hauling a heavy load otherwise I would air down to about 60 running empty. Please go to the RV dealer or a tire shop and get some real professional advise. Another thing to keep in mind is running those crazy high pressures 140-150 psi, if you have a blowout and kill someone, this video will be helpful for the plaintiff.
@@DM-cx8cg Not harsh at all. I get it. And after doing some additional research, I'm better understanding this cold pressure inflation specification. The tires have on them 125PSI, and the placard on the RV have them at 123PSI. My research, both open searching and checking with Cooper, the tire manufacturer, 125PSI is the max cold inflation pressure. Further research suggest that the optimal running pressure should be 123PSI -- so yes that 140PSI is crazy high. I think I am going to aim at running at no more than 125PSI, and really settle to 123PSI which is the recommended by the tire and RV manufacturer.
2 out of 4 wheels gone bad on a relatively new trailer. I would have asked for 4 new wheels of a different manufacturer. Because now you're hoping the other two don't go bad.
Yep -- wish I had known better. I think though that I incorrectly identified the wheel and this the under rating I was concerned about may not be a thing. I am contacting Lion to get some clarification. Update video likely coming in a few days. Thank you for watching.
Independent suspension is very hard on wheels, tires and wheel bearings. the reason being........ picture rolling over a speed bump, for a moment the entire weight of the trailer is on one axle or even a single wheel. Independent suspension has no way to spread the load to the other axle. you can easily exceed the weight rating one wheel at a time. Yes you should over spec the wheels and tires when using a independent suspension trailer. the hitch/5th wheel height can also drastically affect the load on each axle from front to back (I don't think that is a issue here)
Thank you for that insight. Your point about one wheel being overloaded at a time with IS is something that I was thinking about the other day. You get a smoother ride, but apparently it comes at a potential cost beyond the $. Thank you for watching. I will be creating another video on the topic soon now that I have received lots of comments with new information for me to research and confirm.
I think your tires are the issue. 140psi means some extremely hard tires. Also, if these wheels are on 8000lb axles, then the wheels are severely underrated for the load they are carrying.
Play with fire and you will get burned. The risk is real of a more massive failure using these good looking but inferior rims. Get rid of those things, Every time you make a tight turn you are tearing these wheels apart. I would guess that you do not do much blind side backing, so you are always pivoting on the left side wheels
Thank you for that insight! You are right, I do usually back in the other side -- but probably have only done that 6 times in 2 years. (Lucky with pull through sites and the back-ins that we do are usually at longer terms stays.
It all comes down to forged vs cast. I willing to bet that all your wheels are all made in China and are cast. Take a look at the factory wheels on your truck, I bet they are forged and are three times as strong as the wheels on your rig. I hope this helps.
Plenty of OEM wheels are cast. Properly made aluminum wheels, whether forged or cast, will be fine. Forged wheels are just stronger so are generally made with less material and thus are lighter. This allows for more intricate designs. When you make a cast wheel poorly, or it's designed poorly without enough structural support (say making a cheap cast wheel look like a lightweight forged wheel design), you'll have issues.
Weigh the trailer axles and refer to a load and inflation table for your tire specification to determine the correct cold inflation pressure for single loading.
Yep, and it’s not turning out to be great news. More info in the next video. Thank you.
Balancing the wheel/tire combo takes a LOT of vibration out of the combo which can prolong their life. Plus, even with independent suspension, helps keep vibrations inside the RV to a minimum.
Yes, and that is what I am going for now. Even today (yesterday) driving I felt some weird vibration that I need to look into. I think it may have been the tires hitting the high level on inflation.
Centramatic Wheel weights will balance the the whole Wheel assembly
I tried to balance mine they said they would have to add alot of weight to achieve
Centramatic is made in USA look it up
Make sure they are balanced with the yellow dot at the valve stem and all tire sensors installed on the wheel they will be on
I can't fond itnon their site, what is max pressure on these wheels? I used Alcoas on a horse trailer and when Inhad too many tire problems I upgraded to 16 ply/LRH 235/80r16 tires and ran them at 105 (120psi max load pressure) i had cracks like that in the same mid section area. Those were trailer wheels but 80 psi rated. I got new wheels and had no problems since.
Where did you find the max load pressure? Is it on the side of your tires? I'm looking on mine and so far can't find it as a number -- se it as a statement, but they don't mention the PSI. (I may be blind!)
Manufacturer rims usually have it on the website
See if you can replace with steel rims with hub caps, yes I am old fashioned, but steel rims do not fail. Beauty and reliability are two different things.
I have a replacement/upgrade approach I'm working on. Stay tuned. Thank you for wathcing.
@okletsgorv Looking forward to the follow up. It's a shame you even have to deal with this. Nice looking, but flawed.
Just looked at video again. Wheels are fine on weight for the axle. The weight looks to indicate 4850lbs and your max cold inflation should be 123psi. Unless you weigh at each wheel independent, I would run no less than 120. I run 123 because I don’t know how much weight is on each side of the trailer.
I'm double checking all the ratings verses actual and so far I am good on wheel and tire as you mentioned. The wheels are actually rated for 6005 not the 3960 that I had mentioned in the video. I will be doing an update video once I have all my facts confirmed.
Gross vehicle weight/current weight divided by number of tires divided by 36 equals optional tire pressure. Our triple axel at 20k is 92psi.
You are overinflated and it seems like the wheel torque is super high also.
Gross weight of the RV on or off hitch? Using the formula you provided its either 132 or 114, which both seem reasonable, given the 123 max cold spec. I like the 114 better. The torque was recommended by MorRyde as well as the wheel manufacturer. Do you have a source you can refer me to for the torque info your basing your understanding that the torque is high? Thank you for the info!
When they sent replacement rim was it exactly the same? I mean will it fail too? We just had this happen this morning on day 3 of an 18 day trip. Lost about 8 hours trying to find a place to even diagnose it then I suggested using rim from spare so we could at least maybe get to the place we are staying for 9 days. Lol!
He Kim...I responded to you on FB, but for the benefit of others I am responding here as well. They did send the exact same make/model wheel, but of course there is no telling other than time will tell, if it will fail again. My guess is that they may gave had a bad production run in late 2021 early 2022, and that is why they are replacing them so quickly with no questions asked. I have no way of knowing that for sure - its just my guess. In any event they are quick to process the claims with no hassle and get them shipped out quickly. We only waited 2-3 days in each case.
I have Broke 6 of them, every time it was on a Jacknife or on a u turn, my trailer is pretty heavy around 21K, I try to not make super sharp turns anymore, or will have to go to the 19.5 steel rim might be my next option, but the trailer will not look good with them,
Did they just get hairline cracks or something more?
@@okletsgorv It is on a toyhauler, and both blew out in a hard turn, Rims made by Sendel, Sendel sent me the new style rims about 4 months ago, 3 was leaking around the back bead that was cracked, one had a flat and eat the outer bead, so not really there fault, one made a U turn and in the middle of the U turn the rear blew out, the other was also the rear, when Jackknifing backwards it blew out the back ring with full air pressure, and when the ring blew apart, it went into the water tank.
You appear to be saying that you prefer to look good than have durable equipment. Is this correct?
What wheels do you have? The tires you are showing indicate Copper RHT 215/75R17.5, but you show a 16'' wheel. Also, the website image of the tiger wheel doesn't match the wheel you installed. The wheel on the website shows (6) major spokes while the wheel you installed shows (4) major spokes with (4) minor spokes. The wheel you seem to have doesn't appear to be located on the website and thus the weight ratings are not provided either. I am curious if you are exceeding the ratings on the wheels from a load, inflation pressure and tandem axle setup. The side loading on a tandem axle setup can be quite large during turns, especially tight turns.
I didn't even notice that. I was was told by Lions Head that they were the Tiger. I'm going to check with them again.
You may want to double check your tire pressure numbers. I'm pretty sure it should be 125 psi max.
Right? I mean even in my semi trucks (granted different tires) max was like 110.... I mean it's gotta be a struggle to find something to pump them up to 150!
Ya, I am going to look at that. I probably was informed incorrectly by someone that I thought was an authority on the subject. Know better now. If you have a link handy for the spec please post for the benefits of others.
@@okletsgorv The max pressure will be listed on the sidewall. Since you have a fairly static weight on the camper, and the higher the air pressure the rougher it rides, I'd run 10-15psi under max at least, because pressure will increase with heat running down the road. You can see it on your truck too if you've got tpms on it, set them all at 45psi drive a few hours an they'll be at 48-49psi. (roughly). Thats why on some big trucks you'll see stickers that say inflate to xxxpsi cold, they are accounting for the added pressure that comes with heat in the tires. There may be a sticker somewhere on the camper that lists the suggested tire pressure. I would think running those at that high a pressure is gonna shake the dang thing apart and might explain the cracked wheels. I could be totally off base here, but having grown up in a shop, driven semi's and operating heavy machinery for a living, that would be some interesting new tech that somehow slipped by me. lol
Says on the side of the RV 123PSI Cold Inflation Pressure
@@okletsgorv Yeah I'd run a little below that. If you've been running them at 150 that might explain the cracked wheels. Certainly other conditions may have been the culprit, we all know they don't make things like they used to, and in the name of weight savings alot of parts are now far weaker for it.
Do you think the independent suspension is contributing to this?
I really don't have enough experience or knowledge to even speculate on that, but some research I have done suggest that because each wheel can potentially be subjected to more stress because each take the stress independently -- there is some potential for that, but there is nothing I found that suggest that is a common or well known issue. The concept of IS is that it is to give a smoother ride and better handle shock and stress, so that contradicts the idea that IS would be the potential problem. The most probable causes are: Improper Load Balancing: If the load is not evenly distributed, certain wheels might experience more stress, leading to fractures.
Component Wear and Tear: Over time, components of the independent suspension can wear out, potentially causing uneven load distribution and increased stress on the wheels.
Manufacturing Defects: The wheels themselves might have inherent defects or may not be designed to handle the specific dynamics of your independent suspension setup.
I'm going to go with quality of the wheel and that it is probably under rated for the job its been forced to do.
Have you weighed your rig at a CAT scale?
Yes, Not over on the wheels or tires. I weigh two times a year -- typically after long stays and significant changes to cargo. We are full time. I weigh with trailer on and off, so I can calculate all weights individually and compare WR to actuals for all components. I have a part 2 video in the works. Stay tuned. Thank you for watching.
What size of tire do you have, it looks like 17.5 on the side of your tire? Does the sticker on your RV indicate 140psi for pressure? Just curious. Interesting video.
So I must have been mistaken on the version of Tiger wheel that I showed. I am researching that again. The side of the RV shows cold inflation pressure of 123PSI.
The max load pressure is 125 per Cooper.
Isn't that the cold pressure? Do you have a link to any documentation from Cooper that gives that MAX load pressure?
@@okletsgorv the pressure on the sidewall is ALWAYS the cold pressure for maximum load. A tire like that will increase about 5 to 7 lbs at highway speed. 140 lbs is over inflation
This may sound a bit harsh, but to answer your question in the title " Are we safe?" No Sir, you are unsafe. I'd say 125 is still too high for your trailer weight. For example a 3/4 or 1 ton truck is 80 psi when hauling a heavy load otherwise I would air down to about 60 running empty. Please go to the RV dealer or a tire shop and get some real professional advise. Another thing to keep in mind is running those crazy high pressures 140-150 psi, if you have a blowout and kill someone, this video will be helpful for the plaintiff.
@@DM-cx8cg Not harsh at all. I get it. And after doing some additional research, I'm better understanding this cold pressure inflation specification. The tires have on them 125PSI, and the placard on the RV have them at 123PSI. My research, both open searching and checking with Cooper, the tire manufacturer, 125PSI is the max cold inflation pressure. Further research suggest that the optimal running pressure should be 123PSI -- so yes that 140PSI is crazy high. I think I am going to aim at running at no more than 125PSI, and really settle to 123PSI which is the recommended by the tire and RV manufacturer.
@@DM-cx8cg On the Lionshead website they say to fill the tires to the max load pressure on the tire sidewall
ALSO! The wheels you have are NOT 16x6 as they are 17.5” wheels which have a LOT higher weight rating.
Ya, I'm going to have to get another update video out to correct my mistake. Thank you!
2 out of 4 wheels gone bad on a relatively new trailer. I would have asked for 4 new wheels of a different manufacturer. Because now you're hoping the other two don't go bad.
Yep -- wish I had known better. I think though that I incorrectly identified the wheel and this the under rating I was concerned about may not be a thing. I am contacting Lion to get some clarification. Update video likely coming in a few days. Thank you for watching.
Independent suspension is very hard on wheels, tires and wheel bearings. the reason being........ picture rolling over a speed bump, for a moment the entire weight of the trailer is on one axle or even a single wheel. Independent suspension has no way to spread the load to the other axle. you can easily exceed the weight rating one wheel at a time. Yes you should over spec the wheels and tires when using a independent suspension trailer. the hitch/5th wheel height can also drastically affect the load on each axle from front to back (I don't think that is a issue here)
Thank you for that insight. Your point about one wheel being overloaded at a time with IS is something that I was thinking about the other day. You get a smoother ride, but apparently it comes at a potential cost beyond the $. Thank you for watching. I will be creating another video on the topic soon now that I have received lots of comments with new information for me to research and confirm.
Wow really some poor rim makers!!!!?????………thank goodness for TPMS….
Absolutely a must have, no question. Thank you for watching.
Cheap Chinese made wheels are becoming more prevalent on campers. They are not safe.
I'm starting to realize that myself. Thank you for watching.
How long did it take to get new wheel
I think your tires are the issue. 140psi means some extremely hard tires.
Also, if these wheels are on 8000lb axles, then the wheels are severely underrated for the load they are carrying.
I am doing some research. I may have incorrectly identified the wheels. Stay tuned. Thank you for watching.
Play with fire and you will get burned. The risk is real of a more massive failure using these good looking but inferior rims. Get rid of those things, Every time you make a tight turn you are tearing these wheels apart. I would guess that you do not do much blind side backing, so you are always pivoting on the left side wheels
Thank you for that insight! You are right, I do usually back in the other side -- but probably have only done that 6 times in 2 years. (Lucky with pull through sites and the back-ins that we do are usually at longer terms stays.
It all comes down to forged vs cast. I willing to bet that all your wheels are all made in China and are cast. Take a look at the factory wheels on your truck, I bet they are forged and are three times as strong as the wheels on your rig. I hope this helps.
Absolutely they are made in China, and definitely cast.
Plenty of OEM wheels are cast. Properly made aluminum wheels, whether forged or cast, will be fine. Forged wheels are just stronger so are generally made with less material and thus are lighter. This allows for more intricate designs. When you make a cast wheel poorly, or it's designed poorly without enough structural support (say making a cheap cast wheel look like a lightweight forged wheel design), you'll have issues.
wow! big jump in viewership. FEAR formula drives ratings, yet again! More tragedy, drama, intrigue!! Hope y'all are well!
Yep....at least its honest and not just manufactured or embellished drama for the sake of viewership.
Clearly poor workmanship in the making of rim!!!
I'm going to get to the bottom of it objectively, but I share your thinking on that.
Really not so good…you had to go and have tire changed over ….did they pay you for your time and money given to change…..30.00 ?
Ya, the whopping $30!
Invest in Boar Wheels!!
That's the plan. Thank you for watching.
What is going on with the rim dance with those Chinese rims. Buy American 🇺🇸 only!
Had no choice and didn't know to swap them out at time of rig order. Know better now!
are you overweight?
We shall see. Stay tuned for the next video. I have to re-weigh as soon as I get near a scale.