Helpful but an important additional team is to "Expose to the right" knowing your camera, you can often have the 1 full stop over what the camera tells you in term of cliping. This makes the noise is the dark areas moch nicer... Not 100% it is also valuable with DR200 or DR400... (Only valid for RAW images).
The new denoising function in Lightroom is a game changer. Now matter how „noisy“ your photo is, it gets rid of it like a charm. I use ISO 3200 in my X-T5 and X-Pro3 and the results are amazing!
The way i see it is if you were shooting film then you'd be limited to 800 MAX typically. You always have to be using SOME light source and if it's SO dark then you can add your own lighting OR tripod it. Obviously in some situations if you're just mostly shooting in very dark settings then a full frame is always going to be a better choice.
You sort of touched upon this when talking about the iso of the exposure triangle section, instead of underexposing by lowering iso, rather shoot 2/3 or even a full stop brighter with exposure compensation to intentionally make it brighter, and then lower the exposure in post to hide the noise revealed by the high iso. Remember, high iso does not cause noise, only reveals it
Yeah you can do that, but I find that works best for video and not really for photos, I do exposure on the brighter side compared to other photographers and for night scenes I’m never lifting my exposure. But over exposing and hiding the noise in the shadows does work well
Love this video. I myself am a beginner in Photography. So seeing these videos definitely help. Oh and I also have an Xt5 :). Thanks mate keep up the awesome work!
Great video and good to know the XT5 is decent in low light, not sure i agree about using your eye for exposure, the LCD/EVF can appear different in various lighting ambient scenarios. If you learn how to use the Spot meter it can be used as a really good reliable tool to get consistent results. The meter will always try average everything to a mid grey, if you select spot and point to your shadows ideally these need to peg to -2.5 stops if you want good texture, if you don’t want texture then peg to -3 or more. Similar regarding your highlights if you want highlight texture? Then don’t over exposure your highlights more then +2.5 stops but +2 should be your aim. Whenever im shooting white wedding dresses as a do a lot of wedding work, i simply spot meter of the brightest part of the dress and peg to +2 and its always spot on.
Lightrooms enhance has saved my high iso photographs big time. No longer worried about shooting ISO 12,800. For context, im in scenarios where im at 1/60s, f1.4 and iso 12,800 on my sony a7iv.
Not sure about 5:20. I thought most modern cameras are ISO invariant so that if you underexpose and raise exposure in post it should produce the same result as exposing correctly at the time with a higher ISO.
Solid advice, classic info, clear presentation, Gerard. Lower background lighting for talking head footage works very well, IMO. Clever graphics/sound and iso-grain live-time demo a clever plus. Did you intend the subtle pun in title? (“Low key” lighting, “key to low light”😊😊nice.) Got carried away w/bonus tip numbering.😊 Cheers!
First, I love your content. You really make me continue to fall in love with my XT5. If it's not too much trouble, what NR value do you use on the XT5 for photos and video?
Love the tips based on your expertise, but high MP camera give you a better lowlight performance when you scale down your image to the low MP camera's image size. Low MP are better when you watch at 100% or in video if the high MP camera does line skipping and use the same number of pixels (those needed for 4k) the low MP camera uses. Also low MP cameras usually focus better in low light. The a7siii, fx3, and zv-e1 has a kind of dual iso (but still its photos are worse than those from the a7rv)
Mmmm I disagree as my a7siii has way less noise for photography than my a7IV. I’m not too sure about the scale down as I don’t do this or tried it, but I imagine that it could work in camera but not post production (but even then if you down scaled you 61mp camera to 30mp the pixel size would remain the same)
So recently i decided to swap my A7C for X-T5 for a better photography experience and the process itself. Im wondering wich of these lenses should i pick. Im right not at 35mm with Sony so id like to have around 35mm also at APSC. So 23mm-27mm And thats the wonder if i should pick Fuji 24mm 1.4 or Viltrox 27 1.2?
Hello Gerard! New to the channel and found it by chance while browsing. Great presentation! Looking forward for future content as I subscribed and that bell is on. Fuji shooter mainly sports and very interested on how to edit low light situation and dealing with high ISO's. Well done! Cheers
Hey guys 🤪
Hope you enjoyed that one, let me know if this was helpful in any way!
Also check out my Lightroom pastel film presets here - geni.us/ccUXB
Helpful but an important additional team is to "Expose to the right" knowing your camera, you can often have the 1 full stop over what the camera tells you in term of cliping. This makes the noise is the dark areas moch nicer... Not 100% it is also valuable with DR200 or DR400... (Only valid for RAW images).
Excellent video for a beginner like me. You’re quickly becoming one of my favorite photographers on TH-cam.
Oh thanks mate
The new denoising function in Lightroom is a game changer. Now matter how „noisy“ your photo is, it gets rid of it like a charm. I use ISO 3200 in my X-T5 and X-Pro3 and the results are amazing!
yup i've seen shots which once were a bit of a handful to edit become less 'noisey' than top full frame sensors lmao
ISO 3200 is nothing, no wonder you can denoise it lol.
The way i see it is if you were shooting film then you'd be limited to 800 MAX typically. You always have to be using SOME light source and if it's SO dark then you can add your own lighting OR tripod it. Obviously in some situations if you're just mostly shooting in very dark settings then a full frame is always going to be a better choice.
I believe that Viltrox 27mm F1.2 on the XT5 is helping out a lot to let in more light on the APSC sensor.
Yup 100% I love this lens
You sort of touched upon this when talking about the iso of the exposure triangle section, instead of underexposing by lowering iso, rather shoot 2/3 or even a full stop brighter with exposure compensation to intentionally make it brighter, and then lower the exposure in post to hide the noise revealed by the high iso. Remember, high iso does not cause noise, only reveals it
Yeah you can do that, but I find that works best for video and not really for photos, I do exposure on the brighter side compared to other photographers and for night scenes I’m never lifting my exposure.
But over exposing and hiding the noise in the shadows does work well
Love this video. I myself am a beginner in Photography. So seeing these videos definitely help. Oh and I also have an Xt5 :). Thanks mate keep up the awesome work!
Glad it helps!
Great video and good to know the XT5 is decent in low light, not sure i agree about using your eye for exposure, the LCD/EVF can appear different in various lighting ambient scenarios. If you learn how to use the Spot meter it can be used as a really good reliable tool to get consistent results. The meter will always try average everything to a mid grey, if you select spot and point to your shadows ideally these need to peg to -2.5 stops if you want good texture, if you don’t want texture then peg to -3 or more. Similar regarding your highlights if you want highlight texture? Then don’t over exposure your highlights more then +2.5 stops but +2 should be your aim. Whenever im shooting white wedding dresses as a do a lot of wedding work, i simply spot meter of the brightest part of the dress and peg to +2 and its always spot on.
Lightrooms enhance has saved my high iso photographs big time. No longer worried about shooting ISO 12,800.
For context, im in scenarios where im at 1/60s, f1.4 and iso 12,800 on my sony a7iv.
Yeah wow that’s getting pretty high, I just use flash when it’s getting to dark
Not sure about 5:20. I thought most modern cameras are ISO invariant so that if you underexpose and raise exposure in post it should produce the same result as exposing correctly at the time with a higher ISO.
Loving all the XT5 content!
Cheers me too
Solid advice, classic info, clear presentation, Gerard. Lower background lighting for talking head footage works very well, IMO. Clever graphics/sound and iso-grain live-time demo a clever plus. Did you intend the subtle pun in title? (“Low key” lighting, “key to low light”😊😊nice.) Got carried away w/bonus tip numbering.😊 Cheers!
Yeah the bonus tip number was more of a joke ahahahah.
Glad you aprove of the talking head yeoow
Really well articulated. Examples for literally everything you say. Flow is strong, delivery is perfect. Fire bro!!
😁😁😁😁😁
That 911 though 🔥
Sexy car 🚗
Any recommend lens for street photography night and day and for travel like mountain shot. Thank you very much.
Viltrox 27mm f1.2 for sure
Great video. Really like your style of explaining things. Your photography content is captivating too.
Glad you enjoy it!
First, I love your content. You really make me continue to fall in love with my XT5. If it's not too much trouble, what NR value do you use on the XT5 for photos and video?
Hey thanks for the kind words, I actually turn off the NR in the camera
Love the tips based on your expertise, but high MP camera give you a better lowlight performance when you scale down your image to the low MP camera's image size.
Low MP are better when you watch at 100% or in video if the high MP camera does line skipping and use the same number of pixels (those needed for 4k) the low MP camera uses. Also low MP cameras usually focus better in low light. The a7siii, fx3, and zv-e1 has a kind of dual iso (but still its photos are worse than those from the a7rv)
Mmmm I disagree as my a7siii has way less noise for photography than my a7IV.
I’m not too sure about the scale down as I don’t do this or tried it, but I imagine that it could work in camera but not post production (but even then if you down scaled you 61mp camera to 30mp the pixel size would remain the same)
So recently i decided to swap my A7C for X-T5 for a better photography experience and the process itself. Im wondering wich of these lenses should i pick. Im right not at 35mm with Sony so id like to have around 35mm also at APSC. So 23mm-27mm And thats the wonder if i should pick Fuji 24mm 1.4 or Viltrox 27 1.2?
The viltrox is amazing but it’s big a heavy, a great option is the sigma 23mm f1.4 that lens is fantastic
Hello Gerard! New to the channel and found it by chance while browsing. Great presentation! Looking forward for future content as I subscribed and that bell is on. Fuji shooter mainly sports and very interested on how to edit low light situation and dealing with high ISO's. Well done! Cheers
Oh that’s epic mate, welcome aboard
Love your videos. Very informative and amazing photo examples. I really like your style and vibe. Keep it up man. Talented person
Thanks! Will do!
Quality content! 🤌🏻🥂
Glad you think so!
@@gerardneedham 😁
Hi, I’ve downloaded the free presets and LUTS after subscribing. How do i install the Lightroom preset?
Hey send me a email or a dm on instagram and I can help you out mate. I won’t see your reply here unfortunately so that’s the best way to contact me
Thumbnail is eye catching bro. TH-cam stock 📈
You already know!
Thanks man
Your welcome 😊
9 hours ago???
Yup posted 9 or 10 hours ago