I have never understood masking in Lightroom until I saw how you used it in this video, I am going to experiment on it more. Thanks for this video, Tounge!
Hey frickin cool kids! I forgot to mention that lens choice also plays a crucial role in getting sharp images, along with nailing focus. When using a manual focusing lens, you need to be hyper-vigilant with your focus. With autofocus lenses, it's best to use SINGLE POINT AF instead of Auto Focus Continuous. Of course, there's more nuance to this, but I'm simplifying it for the general audience.
Already the very first tip: this is completely depending on focal length.. on a wider angle lens, you can easily go below 1/250th, especially if that means you can shoot on a lower ISO. A good rule of thumb is: don’t shoot slower than the double the length you’re shooting. For example: if you’re shooting 23mm, don’t go below 1/60th. If you shoot 50mm, stick to 1/100 or above, etc.
I mean: that's true for motion blur from you as the photographer moving (and can easily be compensated by modern IS systems). But that doesn't really help with fast moving subjects. And yes, I agree with @Iamtongue here, for non-sports motion you're pretty safe with 1/250th. I try to even not go below 1/500th when shooting the kids if the light allows it without sacrificing too much IQ to high ISO noise.
1) ISO: Lowest ISO possible to get the finest grain. 2) shutterspeed: higher is better to prevent blur of movement: Never go below 1/60 of a second shutterpeed to minimise handshake or use a tripod. 3) aperture: Open up you aperture to let in more light and detail in the exposure (small f stop) 4) flash: use a flash to get more light and push your settings further particularly for a low ISO high shutterspeed combo (works outside also)
@2:26 You get the lowest noise and highest dynamic range at the camera's base ISO. On most recent Fujis, that's ISO 640. Going below base ISO lowers the dynamic range of the camera slightly. This is not a big deal when saving raw files, but it impacts JPEGs and it especially impacts video. That's why F-Log forces you to film at ISO 640 or higher. You get the cleanest image with highest dynamic range for the camera.
With the advent of 40 megapixels on the XT5, and of course doing street photography, I find it best to use auto ISO at higher speeds to get sharper images. Or should I say more depth the field. This is good when you’re using a 1.4 lens. I found this to work well when you don’t have time to make adjustments.
@@Iamtongue Thanks! I will try that. It's my first time using Fujifilm camera. It' quite significantly different from what I am used to. (Canon). But I'm loving the creative options it offers, just gotta figure out which style works best for me. Sometimes, too many options can make it confusing (for me). lolol
Your suggestion worked! My images are now turning out sharpter. Is there a way to take photos with Fuji camera without any film simulation... just like taking pics with a Canon or Sony camera? thanks!
Hi, i have just bought a Fuji film XS-20. I am a locksmith and plan on recording some lock picking hand and lock type videos. Using the camera for holiday, car show photography. I am a little confused on a lens or two to get me started? I really like watching your channel, and i look forward to learning and enjoying this camera.
The method from Tom above is a more scientific approach. If you need something more "quick and dirty" you can try this. Take the back of a box of cereal or a paper with a fine print. Put this thing at certain distance from the camera. Now take shots at different apertures, analyse them and check at which aperture you perceive the picture to be the sharpest. Once done, repeat the process by moving the object closer / farther away, so that you can take notes of the best aperture x distance relationship. Of course other factors like light and stillness of a normal subject would need to be taken into the bigger picture, but start with this cheap method first
Reading everything scientific below is useful understanding DOF is important but, having a lot of experience with that lens, my copy was never sharp outside of the centre 😔 keeping the subject in the centre and stopping down to F/5.6 or F/8 helps, and for general photos it was ok. But anything outside of centre frame just never got super sharp. Hopefully yours performs better than mine did. Good luck
Tom is overcomplicating things, this may be good for someone a little bit more advanced. Just go shoot and figure it out along the way. I don’t think beginners care about a DOF calculator especially this early in their journey. Your hearts in the right place, but it’s creating more confusion.
Bright sunny Algarve gives me such a bag of mixed feeling emotions ehehe! I'm for northern Portugal (Porto), and even with such a small country our weather changes a lot from north to south! And you can only envy that bright sunny algarve and long for summer :D great videos! thanks a lot, keep it up
I’ve finally experienced what you’ve been talking about. The weather is so bi-polar the past few weeks. Heavy rains, followed by sun, followed by clouds and some more rains. I’m hoping it gets a little more consistent soon 😀
@@Iamtongue eheh welcome to Portugal!! When spring start it will stabilize a lot!! =) if you are coming to Porto, reach out and we can go for a photo tour
I'd add two things.. IBIS and OIS Don't help with motion blur, just camera shake, stick to 1/250 when doing portraiture (without a flash) Also disable IBIS and OIS when on a tripod.
The 1/250th shutter speed isn’t always possible, when it isn’t, use the focal length rule: If you’re shooting with a 50mm lens, double it (100), and use that shutter speed (100th of a second) You can double any lens focal length and get a sharp image if you’re at that shutter speed or higher.
Great video! I’ve been a Fuji jpg shooter but do want to get into post processing. I heard that Fuji RAW files don’t play well in Lightroom and can have “worms”? Do you do anything with your files before editing in Lightroom? If it helps, I shoot with a X-T5, XT4, X-T30 and X100VI. Promise I’m not flexing but they span from older generations to newer but just two sensor types.
I had the same conundrum James, I ended up buying Capture One for better compatibility with Fuji RAW files. It wasn't cheap and I miss the more advanced AI features from Adobe, but apart from that, I enjoy using it very much.
I haven't seen any "worms" since the XT2. Everybody keeps saying Capture one is better, but I'm very comfortable and proficient with adobe to ever switch.
Amazing video and tips as usual. Love your videos! If you title your video "on a Sony" camera, you would get at least 3-5 times more views, likes and subscriptions.. That is so sad though, great content but less views and reach because there are simply way more Sony/Canon users than Fuji users.. Even though the principles you are teaching will apply to any cameras.. But anyway, stay true to your calling! 😄😄😄
@@Iamtongue used to be a nikon hobbyist user a long long time.. But since I got my first baby, family travelling with a camera became too cumbersome and so for many years i resorted to mobile phones.. Now I am going back to camera again and chose Fuji system, a big part owing to your videos..
Hey Tongue (is that your real name?), any chance you could convert your presets to capture one styles? (I just don't like how lightroom demosaics the fuji raw files)
Interesting video! I own a Leica Q3 and Fuji X-T5. When I shoot the Q3 wide open on f1.7, the image is incredible, shallow but incredibly sharp. It seems that no matter what I do, I can’t get the same sharpness on the X-T5. I’m mostly shooting with a 35mm f2 on the Fuji and even stopping down the aperture to f4, it seems not to be quite there yet. I mean, obviously a gorgeous image, but when pixel peeping it turns very noticeable. I’m not a pixel peeper so I continue shooting normally with the Fuji as well as the Q3. But I just wonder why I experience this difference.
You’re comparing a $400 lens to a $5k lens and a 40 vs 60 mps and apsc vs ff, brother. There should really be a night and day difference to justify the price difference 🤣 Jokes aside, I also think fuji should update their f2 primes! Theyre not as sharp esp on close ups!
I shoot mostly strobes, inside studio as well as outside. Got GXF50s and GFX100s. ISO100, SS is 1/125, hand held, never had an unsharp image. Been with the GFX for 6+ yrs now. Maybe a couple where the model moved and 50s couldn't handle it due to its slow AF. Outside shots at f2, f1.7 mostly.
@@Iamtongue yup with the fuji 18-55 f2.8 lens. I took off the VND and forgot to place it in my bag when I was placing the lens cap and hood on the lens in my bag lol
Thanks 🙏🏻 for sharing For sharper images I found Capture One is miles better than Adobe, I don’t understand how Adobe which was once the cutting edge standard become 3rd rate with Fuji raw files? Can’t the Fuji hierarchy try send the Adobe software engineers a few freebie cameras or something so they can get off their arses!
Ya i hear you, but when you're purchasing a photography package in Adobe creative suite. It just makes everything flow alot better. I can edit in LR and then just re touch in PS. My workflow is based around that...
@@Iamtongue totally understand once your down a certain rabbit hole it’s hard to get out, with that said please do yourself a favour and download a free trial version of DxO Pure Raw 3, process with the standard Deep PRIME export as DNG or you can even export to Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop than open the original Fuji Raw file and compare both at 50 or 100%, seriously you will think the DxO version was shot on medium format with the amount of sharpness and detail compared with the original, Note DxO is not an editing software its more of a file prep or pre edit, you should do a video on it.
I found that this video misses the main point because of course you want to close the aperture, increase the shutter speed and lower the ISO if you want a sharp photo, but in the end you have to expose your photo correctly so you just have to find the best combination between these 3 factors. And maybe the best advice is to shoot in good light conditions, go out, buy a spot,...
Who owns a Fuji and didn’t know about aperture, shutter speed and iso? Probably also most know about lightroom. Want to know a real tip? Capture One has way less noise then LR for Fuji fotos (especially RAW)
I have never understood masking in Lightroom until I saw how you used it in this video, I am going to experiment on it more. Thanks for this video, Tounge!
If there ever was a secret sauce... this would be it! Hope this helps :D
Hey frickin cool kids! I forgot to mention that lens choice also plays a crucial role in getting sharp images, along with nailing focus. When using a manual focusing lens, you need to be hyper-vigilant with your focus. With autofocus lenses, it's best to use SINGLE POINT AF instead of Auto Focus Continuous. Of course, there's more nuance to this, but I'm simplifying it for the general audience.
Do you use Eye tracking in single point or do you set the point manually?
Just a question do you think 50mm is too tight for japan I'm planning to buy a 35 f1.4 or a 23mm f2
Already the very first tip: this is completely depending on focal length.. on a wider angle lens, you can easily go below 1/250th, especially if that means you can shoot on a lower ISO. A good rule of thumb is: don’t shoot slower than the double the length you’re shooting. For example: if you’re shooting 23mm, don’t go below 1/60th. If you shoot 50mm, stick to 1/100 or above, etc.
I mean: that's true for motion blur from you as the photographer moving (and can easily be compensated by modern IS systems). But that doesn't really help with fast moving subjects. And yes, I agree with @Iamtongue here, for non-sports motion you're pretty safe with 1/250th. I try to even not go below 1/500th when shooting the kids if the light allows it without sacrificing too much IQ to high ISO noise.
I've gotten some really amazing and sharp photos with 1/8th shutter speed at 85mm... Thanks to ibis...
1) ISO: Lowest ISO possible to get the finest grain.
2) shutterspeed: higher is better to prevent blur of movement: Never go below 1/60 of a second shutterpeed to minimise handshake or use a tripod.
3) aperture: Open up you aperture to let in more light and detail in the exposure (small f stop)
4) flash: use a flash to get more light and push your settings further particularly for a low ISO high shutterspeed combo (works outside also)
Great tips! Thanks for sharing these photography essentials.
@2:26 You get the lowest noise and highest dynamic range at the camera's base ISO. On most recent Fujis, that's ISO 640. Going below base ISO lowers the dynamic range of the camera slightly. This is not a big deal when saving raw files, but it impacts JPEGs and it especially impacts video. That's why F-Log forces you to film at ISO 640 or higher. You get the cleanest image with highest dynamic range for the camera.
hey man, I've had the xt5 for more than a year but your video has really helped me a lot! Thank you and keep up with this content :)
Thanks man I appreciate the love and support!
I’ve just bought a Fuji XH2S so this video has been very useful with my Fuji F1 .4 33 mm. Thanks for the tips bro.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you :D
If you have a modern camera start with a shutterspeed of at least 1/250 then use auto iso.
With the advent of 40 megapixels on the XT5, and of course doing street photography, I find it best to use auto ISO at higher speeds to get sharper images. Or should I say more depth the field. This is good when you’re using a 1.4 lens.
I found this to work well when you don’t have time to make adjustments.
Good tip!
Wow awesome! How would you do that for video?
video settings are totally differnet filmmakers want it to look natural
This was comprehensive and easy to understand. Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching I’m glad it was helpful!
When using recipes in Fujifilm camera, are there settings to adjust that can make images/videos sharper?
You can go into the menu settings, and adjust the sharpness to taste. It's really up to you, try testing that out.
@@Iamtongue Thanks! I will try that. It's my first time using Fujifilm camera. It' quite significantly different from what I am used to. (Canon). But I'm loving the creative options it offers, just gotta figure out which style works best for me. Sometimes, too many options can make it confusing (for me). lolol
Your suggestion worked! My images are now turning out sharpter. Is there a way to take photos with Fuji camera without any film simulation... just like taking pics with a Canon or Sony camera? thanks!
IS THERE A WAY TO APPLY AND ADJUST THIS KIND OF SHARPENING MASK IN CAPTURE ONE AS WELL? WHAT YOU DID: JUST SHARPENING THE EDGES A BIT?
I’m not sure you’re gonna have to find a c1 tutorial
I find the XT5 and 35 1.4 doesn’t have the same magic as with older sensors. Have you noticed ?
the flaws are amplied on the 40 mp sensor, but I still like it. Video of it should come out soon :D
Hi, i have just bought a Fuji film XS-20. I am a locksmith and plan on recording some lock picking hand and lock type videos. Using the camera for holiday, car show photography. I am a little confused on a lens or two to get me started? I really like watching your channel, and i look forward to learning and enjoying this camera.
Get the sigma 18-50mm it will fit most of your shooting requirements
Is that applicable for older Fujis like xt-2?
yes!
Greetings, what is the best F stop for sharpest images on my Xt5 16-80mm f/4 R OIS WR?
This is a generalization but the sweet spots for most lenses are anywhere from f4-f8 so play around with that.
The method from Tom above is a more scientific approach. If you need something more "quick and dirty" you can try this. Take the back of a box of cereal or a paper with a fine print. Put this thing at certain distance from the camera. Now take shots at different apertures, analyse them and check at which aperture you perceive the picture to be the sharpest. Once done, repeat the process by moving the object closer / farther away, so that you can take notes of the best aperture x distance relationship. Of course other factors like light and stillness of a normal subject would need to be taken into the bigger picture, but start with this cheap method first
Reading everything scientific below is useful understanding DOF is important but, having a lot of experience with that lens, my copy was never sharp outside of the centre 😔 keeping the subject in the centre and stopping down to F/5.6 or F/8 helps, and for general photos it was ok.
But anything outside of centre frame just never got super sharp. Hopefully yours performs better than mine did.
Good luck
Tom is overcomplicating things, this may be good for someone a little bit more advanced. Just go shoot and figure it out along the way. I don’t think beginners care about a DOF calculator especially this early in their journey. Your hearts in the right place, but it’s creating more confusion.
F8/.500/auto iso, done
That was a wonderful video presentation. Thank you so much. 😊
Glad it was helpful!
great tip video!
thanks buddy
Any time!
Bright sunny Algarve gives me such a bag of mixed feeling emotions ehehe! I'm for northern Portugal (Porto), and even with such a small country our weather changes a lot from north to south! And you can only envy that bright sunny algarve and long for summer :D great videos! thanks a lot, keep it up
I’ve finally experienced what you’ve been talking about. The weather is so bi-polar the past few weeks. Heavy rains, followed by sun, followed by clouds and some more rains. I’m hoping it gets a little more consistent soon 😀
@@Iamtongue eheh welcome to Portugal!! When spring start it will stabilize a lot!! =) if you are coming to Porto, reach out and we can go for a photo tour
I'd add two things.. IBIS and OIS Don't help with motion blur, just camera shake, stick to 1/250 when doing portraiture (without a flash)
Also disable IBIS and OIS when on a tripod.
i use camera shake and motion blur interchangeably but I see your point and duly noted! Thanks
MANY THANKS 👍👍
No problem 👍
Hey bro, is it worthy to upgrade from fujifilm X-S10 to fujifilm X-T5 ?
yes it is
The 1/250th shutter speed isn’t always possible, when it isn’t, use the focal length rule:
If you’re shooting with a 50mm lens, double it (100), and use that shutter speed (100th of a second)
You can double any lens focal length and get a sharp image if you’re at that shutter speed or higher.
Funny enough I found my self shooting at F3 1/250 a lot since I started to main Fuji over my A7III. Film sims is what swayed me.
Nice, thank you
No problem thanks for watching!
Does Under Armour make a mirrorless camera?
hahaha
Great video! I’ve been a Fuji jpg shooter but do want to get into post processing. I heard that Fuji RAW files don’t play well in Lightroom and can have “worms”? Do you do anything with your files before editing in Lightroom?
If it helps, I shoot with a X-T5, XT4, X-T30 and X100VI. Promise I’m not flexing but they span from older generations to newer but just two sensor types.
I had the same conundrum James, I ended up buying Capture One for better compatibility with Fuji RAW files. It wasn't cheap and I miss the more advanced AI features from Adobe, but apart from that, I enjoy using it very much.
@@andreabeccarisi1126thank you so much!
I haven't seen any "worms" since the XT2. Everybody keeps saying Capture one is better, but I'm very comfortable and proficient with adobe to ever switch.
Amazing video and tips as usual. Love your videos! If you title your video "on a Sony" camera, you would get at least 3-5 times more views, likes and subscriptions.. That is so sad though, great content but less views and reach because there are simply way more Sony/Canon users than Fuji users.. Even though the principles you are teaching will apply to any cameras.. But anyway, stay true to your calling! 😄😄😄
i mean if you want, i can change it to Sony ;)
@@Iamtongue used to be a nikon hobbyist user a long long time.. But since I got my first baby, family travelling with a camera became too cumbersome and so for many years i resorted to mobile phones.. Now I am going back to camera again and chose Fuji system, a big part owing to your videos..
Hey Tongue (is that your real name?), any chance you could convert your presets to capture one styles? (I just don't like how lightroom demosaics the fuji raw files)
hey man unfortunately not, I don't see me switching to C1 anytime soon. Im happy iwth the way my images look on LR....
Great video Brodie🔥🙏🔥🙏thanks for the sharpening tips. 🙌🙌🙌
No problem!!
Also use the S mode on the dial (shutter speed priority)
And watch what the camera does to iso and aperture to get a good image with your set SS.
Dude, you got the 35 1.4 again?
it's a loaner.
You forgot to mention accurate focussing on the point of most interest! 😀
Woops. I thought that was a given 😅 but you are right
My man. Nice tutorial
Glad it helped
Hey man! Did you see your videos finish way before what you plan? Watch the last five seconds. I don't know why, but I noticed that in other videos
Hey Juan! Yes I am aware it’s deliberate 😆 I’m just trolling people with it
Did you mean to say 33mm 1.4 at the start of the video?
No this is the Xf 35mm haha
Haha nice. It's hard to get away from that lens isn't it @@Iamtongue
@@Iamtongue "How to shoot a sharper photo... switch from the 35 to the 33!" All kidding aside, the 35's brilliant and I get why you still use it.
question… why is there always mention of “fullframe equivalent” in almost every photography topic vids on youtube?
Cuz full frame is the standard and ppl(most) will understand what you’re talking about…
Interesting video!
I own a Leica Q3 and Fuji X-T5.
When I shoot the Q3 wide open on f1.7, the image is incredible, shallow but incredibly sharp.
It seems that no matter what I do, I can’t get the same sharpness on the X-T5.
I’m mostly shooting with a 35mm f2 on the Fuji and even stopping down the aperture to f4, it seems not to be quite there yet. I mean, obviously a gorgeous image, but when pixel peeping it turns very noticeable.
I’m not a pixel peeper so I continue shooting normally with the Fuji as well as the Q3. But I just wonder why I experience this difference.
I’m guessing that the 35mm F2 Fuji lens and that Leica lens will be worlds apart on any Fuji body
You’re comparing a $400 lens to a $5k lens and a 40 vs 60 mps and apsc vs ff, brother. There should really be a night and day difference to justify the price difference 🤣
Jokes aside, I also think fuji should update their f2 primes! Theyre not as sharp esp on close ups!
Do you not use Capture One for Fuji. The files come out so much better.
I must’ve answered this question so many times..but no.
I shoot mostly strobes, inside studio as well as outside. Got GXF50s and GFX100s. ISO100, SS is 1/125, hand held, never had an unsharp image. Been with the GFX for 6+ yrs now. Maybe a couple where the model moved and 50s couldn't handle it due to its slow AF. Outside shots at f2, f1.7 mostly.
Low iso, high shutter speed and closing down the aperture. This is basically shooting in the brightest environment that you can find.
Good job 👏
I’ve been shooting F22, F14, F8 and F4 because I forgot to bring my VND lol.
Lol f22?!
@@Iamtongue yup with the fuji 18-55 f2.8 lens. I took off the VND and forgot to place it in my bag when I was placing the lens cap and hood on the lens in my bag lol
Thanks 🙏🏻 for sharing For sharper images I found Capture One is miles better than Adobe, I don’t understand how Adobe which was once the cutting edge standard become 3rd rate with Fuji raw files? Can’t the Fuji hierarchy try send the Adobe software engineers a few freebie cameras or something so they can get off their arses!
Ya i hear you, but when you're purchasing a photography package in Adobe creative suite. It just makes everything flow alot better. I can edit in LR and then just re touch in PS. My workflow is based around that...
@@Iamtongue totally understand once your down a certain rabbit hole it’s hard to get out, with that said please do yourself a favour and download a free trial version of DxO Pure Raw 3, process with the standard Deep PRIME export as DNG or you can even export to Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop than open the original Fuji Raw file and compare both at 50 or 100%, seriously you will think the DxO version was shot on medium format with the amount of sharpness and detail compared with the original, Note DxO is not an editing software its more of a file prep or pre edit, you should do a video on it.
I found that this video misses the main point because of course you want to close the aperture, increase the shutter speed and lower the ISO if you want a sharp photo, but in the end you have to expose your photo correctly so you just have to find the best combination between these 3 factors. And maybe the best advice is to shoot in good light conditions, go out, buy a spot,...
Let me get this right…you said everything I said but you added.. “shoot in good light conditions” which should already be a given.. 🤦♂️
I'm confused. What does any of this have to do specifically with Fujifilm cameras? This is just a general basic photography lesson, no?
SEO purposes man
First ❤
You a real one for that ☝️
Why not subject mask and just sharpen the subject from there?
There are many routes to get to the same destination. Do what makes you feel comfortable
Who owns a Fuji and didn’t know about aperture, shutter speed and iso? Probably also most know about lightroom. Want to know a real tip? Capture One has way less noise then LR for Fuji fotos (especially RAW)
@@jolima Woahh so edgy
Still, seems like Fuji is never as sharp as Sony, Canon or Nikon 😢
No i dont think that would ever be Fuji's thing. Unless you go medium format.
f4 is sweet spot? 😆
Generalization 😆
Learn so much from this vedic, thank you !! However, I just can’t stop laughing at that “I am not a racialist”😂 (I am an Asian American, by the way😅)
Hahah I’m just having fun! 😅
Really, 1/250th with Image stabilisation on? Maybe You should drink a prosecco before shooting….
I knew someone was gonna comment on this 😂
Yes.
Should’ve remove Fujifilm from that title 😂
Ok done.