How to: Replace Ford engine mounts (Duratec, Mondeo)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ค. 2016
- Easy DIY guide: Renew the main upper engine mounts for a Ford Duratec. Featured is a Mondeo Mk3; the parts and process are similar for all Duratec installs such as in a Focus, same for Mazda MZRs, and indeed most engine mounts in any car.
The RH (engine) side mount on the Duratec featured is a hydraulic dampening mount, which fail when the rubber perishes and cracks or is damaged allowing the fluid the drain out. In this case my vibration problem was a product of this mount failing (lifetime approx. 12 years and 120,000 km).
See also this video on replacing the lower transmission mount (torque restrictor): • How to: Replace Ford t...
Required:
* 10 mm socket with 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet handle (coolant expansion tank)
* 1/2" breaker bar, decent length extension bar, and deep socket sizes 15 mm, 18 mm, and 21 mm
* 1/2" Torque wrench (ideally). Nb. I torque the bolts by estimating force applied to a known breaker bar length.
* New engine mounts to suit engine and fitting. You would ideally replace in pairs even though only one typically fails at a time.
Nb. the examples featured may be of identical design geometry for your case, but can vary (particularly the LH side) in rubber compound for engine weight/power. Ford use a color label to identify rubber compounds (you can see the LH mount is marked brown), while the alloy castings of the mount bodies themselves do not differ - so take care to ensure your replacement mount matches the old one.
* Flat bladed screwdriver to remove air intake hose clamp, and long nose pliers to redo.
Generally:
* Medium strength threadlocker (e.g. Loctite 243 [blue]). Amazon US: amzn.to/2DN3Upv | UK: amzn.to/2mTuVAv
* Marker pen
* Maybe: hot air gun & penetrating oil
* Optional: anti-seize (*not* for use on engine mount bolt/nut threads). Amazon US: amzn.to/2rlBU9Z | UK: amzn.to/2Beksni
* Scissor jack and block of wood, or other reliable engine lifting method
* Jack and axle stands, or other suitable and safe way to lift car.
Using the above Amazon links helps support my channel and is appreciated! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Amazon links to relevant products (from the description):
* Threadlocker - Amazon US: amzn.to/2DN3Upv | UK: amzn.to/2mTuVAv
* Anti-seize - Amazon US: amzn.to/2rlBU9Z | UK: amzn.to/2Beksni
Very nice video as usual
But could you please help me to find same product for my 2017 ford fusion sport V6 twin turbo ! a part # will be perfect
If there were for all the cars such good instructional videos for car repairs -
like you put on Mondeo MK3, people would repair only according to them
and car mechanics would lose their jobs. 😊
I wish you a lot of success in your repairs and I look forward to more of your videos 👍.
I want to thank you for all the direct and duffle information you have provided. I like to say all roads lead to Rome. Meaning any shortcomings in the suspension and frame related equipment mostly begin with bad shocks and struts.
I love this guy. I have a 2006 focus and he help me on my way. Thanks. Also very well explained.
You are not alone brother... This guy saved me so much time and money ....I started with the Mk1 being simple engineering ...But the MK2 is so much more complex
Another Excellent how to video. Thanks!
Thanks Buddy i have the same problem i sped a lot of time and money NOW you showed me the real thing THANKS a lot
Very informative once again!, thank you very much for your time.
Nice video, its much simpler than I thought.
Brilliantly clear and well made. I wish you had a mk 3 galaxy....
God bless you shoes for this great simple and step by step tutorial.👌
Another excellent video...Great job!
Excellent video, very clever tips!
Excellent work. Couldnt Expect any better tutorial.
I have some remarks. Like you said - nuts with blue plastic nylocs are self locking, are NOT reusable and must be renewed once loosened. Also it is not allowed to put any liquid or paste between nut and part because you change the calculated friction based on the nut torque. Those nuts do not use a washer for a reason because their bottom surface must have a certain amount to provide the frictional connection and grip.
Hi awesome content for duratec greats from Poland!😁
Best video I have seen , Well done. Thank you for showing how to do the engine mount, I have Mazda 2 2005 which is about the same as Ford Fiesta could you please show how to do this one?
thank you- I am going to replace my engine . highly helpfull for me
6:15 “These nuts” lol
Great Video! Very helpful...
Very nice video. THX!
Gracias, saludos desde México 👍
Good Job!
Good video. Well done man, could I share it to my customer?
nice job
Excellent video!
Here in US we have air-powered wrenches for the tight ones.
Could you explain how to put the V6 mk2 2.5 engine back in the car? Is without the box.
Hello, could you please advice me a few website to buy new and like new parts for my car: ford mondeo 2005 2.0 and 2.5 petrol. Thank you!
I learned a a lot from this very informative video. And here is a question for you:
13:50, don't you it's still got too much vibration here?
Nope!
hi . please can I fixed my engine ford focus mk2 1.6l 2010 to duratec HE 2.0 or 2.3 mondeo 2009 with not trouble.
Well done. A question: you put the wooden block on the oil pan?
Yes. Carefully.
"Work quickly" lol
Nice job mate. How did you keep your engine bay this clean throughout the years? I've seen much worse ones. Is the odometer showing in miles or kilometers?
At 00:23 you can see the speedometer and it says "km/h", so I'm guessing the odometer is also in km.
Would anyone have a suggestion of how to prevent the engine from shifting when the trans mount is removed? Like what happens at 18:30?
I have the same car but a 2.0 litre, I also have a vibration and been scratching my head as to what it causing it. Did you have a vibration at all levels? IE, idle and normal driving?
Your videos are a life saver, now need to buy the correct ones.
Oh and I think your voice is great, very pleasing to the ear :)
Mounts will cause varying vibration with mode and attitude of the car as it affects weight on the engine. E.g. gear reverse/neutral/forward, on hill or camber. It's not hard to check the mounts as shown. But vibration can be caused by dozens of other things of course.
Thanks for the reply, My vibration is when the car is idle, if you put your hands on the seats or doors or dash you can feel a tingling vibration, don't mind changing mounts if it is that that is causing it, is there any other typical thing that would cause vibrations? Thanks.
@@stevemoore999 mine the same now did you cure your problem and what was it thanks
@@paulhughes9012 Hi, it just disappeared about 18 months ago, never found out what it was
@@stevemoore999 ok thanks for reply m8 hopfully mine will disapear wishfull thinking haa thanks again
lower one doesnt make vibrations it affects on and off throtle shaking you feel in the back of the seat, vibrations come from the uper ones.
Would you plz direct me to a link where I can find and buy the two mounts?
Hi Craig, sorry for another question.
I have changed the transmission oil again, so I am pretty happy with that now.
I'm leaning to the engine mounts again.
I noticed you mentioned in your video you had vibration with worn out engine mounts.
I have noticed, when my car is in Park there are no vibrations, when I have it in Drive and I hold on the brakes, I get vibration but whilst driving no vibration.
Is it normal to have vibration whilst in Drive and holding the vehicle still on the brakes, is this the same sort of issue you had?
Thank you for the help, this is my first automatic so I'm new and still learning.
Alex
The engine will shift around depending on torque being applied thru the gearbox, and the angle of the car's tilt or pitch, so applying different stress on the mounts in different circumstances. If you're feeling vibration thru the body that feels like metal-on-metal contact from the motor then that suggests mounts. The problem is of course the engine or trans if they have a mechanical problem they will also behave differently in different situations. You could try using a steep hill to experiment? e.g. put car in drive and neutral with car pointing downhill uphill and sideways to see if it changes the behavior. Have you visually inspected the torque restrictor as this is the other very common mount failure? Place a camera to view up close while shifting F-N-D.
@@CraigsDIY Hi Craig, thank you for the reply.
I have replaced the torque restrictor as that was very worn and split.
As noted, I can only notice the vibration whilst in D holding on the brakes, I will your experiment to see if I can tell if there is a difference on a steep hill as you have suggested, as well I will try and jack the engine slightly alleviate the vibrations which you have mentioned on your video to see if I can pinpoint it that way.
Thank you again, Craig, your videos have been a massive help!
Is it the same process with the duratorq 2.2 tdci 155hp??
Hi Graig
after watching your vidoe, very clear, I'm not getting vibration but getting what I would call engine slap.
If I accelerate or de- accelerate I get a lot of movement from the engine, too much I think. I have had the large round engine mount replaced and that helped slightly
Can you suggest any other reason that would cause this problem?
Thank you for your very clear video's
Danny
Well what restrains torsional movement is the lower 'mount', or torque restrictor, so maybe the rubber on that is gone? Not entirely sure what you're describing.
Hi Graig,
many thanks for taking the time to reply.
I'm getting an excessive engine movement when I apply slight acceleration or de-acceleration.
I have had my car in 2 gear hand brake on with my brother sitting in the drivers seat and just dapping throttle pedal and the engine I think is twisting too much..
I will get it checked out at a garage I haven't a garage ,park on the road.
many thanks for your help
Danny
Is it making noise? They do move quite a lot normally. If you're not getting metal-on-metal vibration I wouldn't worry about it. If it is moving too much then it has to be mounts gone, including the lower torque restrictor. See here for demo of engine shifting th-cam.com/video/H2P74cIvlmg/w-d-xo.html
Hello man, you think is the same in Jaguar X-Type 2.0d, 130hp?! I mean same posting? How many support are totally?!thanks a lot ! 🍻🍻🍻
hi mate, did you jack the car up whilst it was running to figure out the vibration was on the right hand side? also what kind of vibrations did you get? was it in the floor pan close to the pedals? thanks
It's metal on metal contact between the engine and body mate, it makes the whole car vibrate. Yes you can jack the engine to take the weight off its mount. If the vibration suddenly disappears, then that's pretty clear. If not, try the other side (transmission).
@@CraigsDIY thanks, I changed the middle lower mount because that had split, my top right side looks OK similar to yours but i need to take it off to see if properly, because I get a vibration that's in the floor and travels to the pedals and goes up my leg making the drive a little uncomfy
Hi mate can you tell me how to fix my gas pedal it is sinking a little bit iv got the same car as you thank you
The likely suspect is the throttle cable, or the spring at the throttle body. Disconnect the cable at the TB and try to isolate the problem, then either lube (or replace) the cable, or take off the TB and give it a clean and lube up. I have a video on the TB here: th-cam.com/video/41K_v2YYnpY/w-d-xo.html
Hi Craig,
With regards to the engine mounts, do you have any means of sourcing these like for e.g.the torque restrictor from jaguar, or do you just use main dealer ford or a pattern part?
The issue I am having Craig, when at low revs when the car changes I get a jolt, when I'm on the throttle higher revs this issue is alleviated.
Thank you for all the help and information.
Alex
You'll need to check it is actually the mounts, could be gearbox or something else. Try Endon Services if you're in the UK, if Ford prices no good.
You can also get 2nd tier aftermarket brands, for an old car probably appropriate.
@@CraigsDIY Hi Craig, thank you for your reply, I changed my transmission oil following your video before but think I may have made an error after say over an hour of cooling after a drive, I checked the transmission oil level and it is right on the top of the hash mark potentially giving me this harsh/jerky change issues, I'll get that sucked out tomorrow maybe a few hundred ML at a time to see how it goes.
I'm not saying it can't be the mounts, just you need to check. Trans oil at the max shouldn't cause issues. If you have a Mondeo, the oil-filled hydraulic mount on the right-hand side is what usually fails (as shown in the video) and of course it's the most expensive. Nice and smooth when new tho.
@@CraigsDIY Checked the trans oil again this morning, drove approximately just under 10km before checking and it's near the top of the hashed marks, so after probably driving 20km it would be full of slightly over full.
Yes is it a Mondeo 2006.
I done a visual inspection underneath of the hydraulic mount this morning with a mirror I could not see any evidence of cracking.
So I gather maybe remove a bit of trans oil, then go down the route of replacing the mounts.
I would be very shocked if the transmission is failing, maybe over filled but not failing, the vehicle is low millage 55,000 on the clock, it was owned previous by public section company so maintained by fords religiously.
Thank you ever so much Craig, I really appreciate the help, I know you're the man to talk to about the Mondeo's!
Where did you buy the miunts from ?
Help me to solved the problem:engine vibrating then I starting on the first gear,then I lose the clutch it’s came big vibrating and idle RPM is dropping to 500RPM.we’re is problem?
so its okay to use a sissor jack? it seems safe and strudy.
To support the engine? Anything that is reliable. A hydraulic jack carries the risk it may lose its pressure over time, unless it's in known excellent condition.
Where you buy that mount? 7:18
How much u.spend for engine mount
Is it the same for a mondeo mk4 1.8 tdci? Can i change them myself?
They'll be similar.
good job i know its nothing to do with this video ,,,,, does anyone here no were fords situ foglight connection is ?
60 -65 Pound touge for motor mount above
29nm
2002 diesal is same ?
I heard that the one who is failing the most is the one under your accu/airbox
The one failing the most is the hydraulic one, as explained, on the engine front side.
@@CraigsDIY I tell what i read on forums, also th-cam.com/video/vVaEEwVW1Uk/w-d-xo.html you can see this one is totally wrecked on 4 year old car
🤑
Thanks, Hare Krishna!
sorry the part numbers tell me please
The parts in the video, specific to Duratec HE 2.0 and CD4E auto in the Mondeo Mk3, are 1S71-6F012-AD (engine) and 1S71-7M122-EB (transmission).
Thanks! Craig!
You skipped the lower mount? why? :)
Link in the desc
@@CraigsDIY thanks! :) didnt see that :) Great video
I would have put the block of wood below the jack, not above it.
You risk cracking the alloy sump, the point is to distribute stress a bit better. A jack pad with a nice big rubber plate would be ideal.
Hola amigo dame tu correo y te contacto