Thank you thank you for creating this video. I have been unsuccessful in printing my lightboxes. Ive gotten lazy and just selecting default profiles. Because of your video i am calibrating filament now. You are very detailed in explaining the settings. I will will be watching this many times. Thank you
Curious, why do you make the backs attached to the walls? Most tutorials I find attach the sides to the face. Is it better to have the face separate with the edge that fits onto the walls?
@EverydayDecay for edge-lit boxes I like having my electronics and lights on the same printed piece. It also balances print time between the parts - the slow but precise printing of the face vs the faster draft quality printing of the base usually come out to about the same. Print the base first and you can do everything related to programming an ESP and wiring it up while the face prints, then snap it together and you're done. The argument for walls on the face is you have less of an overlap at the presented edge, giving you more usable space for the feature. I honestly do a mix of designs: - walls on the face for most edge-lit boxes - walls on the face for back-lit boxes - split designs where the walls are constant and have thin interfaces between them I actually have really taken a liking to using natural PLA for walls directly on top of features with a split-wall design since it's the best of both worlds, like this more recent one makerworld.com/en/models/889447#profileId-845553 or this one makerworld.com/en/models/788988#profileId-727115
@@triggerre fighting whispies is part of what makes light boxes such a challenge. Printing light to dark, running filament calibrations, and perhaps going low and slow (drop temp and speed) for black goes a long way to helping. Disabling "reduce infill retraction" is a seeing I've started using that is not in my published profiles yet, that seems to help a bit, too.
@@artemgoncharenko646 when the design allows it, sure. Basically if you have any translucent parts to cut you're going to have an ugly seam. Overlapping material, glue, etc - either light leaks or dark lines. If the parts of the design have a lot of opaque space you can scale the design so the largest solid part is at your build volume, then assemble it without worrying about the seams being visible. I've tried a few methods and seen many other folks try - you just won't get an aesthetically clean look if you have to assemble translucent elements from multiple pieces. As an example, I made one that was just short of 16" wide from multiple pieces. It only worked because the source material had lots of void space in it, so my translucent elements are still single pieces. You can see details on it here - makerworld.com/en/models/481183
@@rx2006je still where it was, except it's only visible if you turn on developer mode. That option is at the bottom of the preferences window (File > Preferences).
OMG! This was AMAZING!!!! 🤯 This helped to explain a lot as to why some of my prints have failed or have looked like crap . My lightboxes are going to go from OK to PERFECT. With this new knowledge, my other prints will also come out better! 😃 Thank you!!!!!
@patrickwilliamson5737 there are several different schools of thought when it comes to how to make these - this is just the how and why of my take on it. Thank you for the kind words, I hope you see improved results!
Good morning. I believe I am using the same settings you are except for my filament which I have tuned. I'm not quite sure what is causing this issue on my bottom surface pattern. Any ideas?
@@michaelb7133 I saw your A1 video - at an outside guess it could be a partial clog or the temp is too low perhaps. You are letting it do the bed leveling procedure when you start a job, yes? When in doubt, double-check you have the correct material profile to match what you have loaded (eg; you have a PLA spool loaded and a PLA material profile in the slicer) and try the default settings. If that works you can change one setting at a time until it fails to identify the problem. If defaults fail then you probably need to look at a mechanical issue (like a partial clog or extruder failure). The Bambu wiki has excellent troubleshooting guides!
1:03:55 THANK YOU!! This was driving me crazy why it wasn't following the patterns I set.
Thanks for putting your time and effort into this video. Easy to follow and so informative!
@@MichaelSopp happy to help you out!
Thank you thank you for creating this video. I have been unsuccessful in printing my lightboxes. Ive gotten lazy and just selecting default profiles. Because of your video i am calibrating filament now. You are very detailed in explaining the settings. I will will be watching this many times. Thank you
@@mmikegtp thank you for the kind words - I wish you luck!
Greatest 3d print guide on whole youtube.
@@cypis007 mighty kind of you! What could I improve on the next one?
Soooo much good info!!!!
Curious, why do you make the backs attached to the walls? Most tutorials I find attach the sides to the face.
Is it better to have the face separate with the edge that fits onto the walls?
@EverydayDecay for edge-lit boxes I like having my electronics and lights on the same printed piece. It also balances print time between the parts - the slow but precise printing of the face vs the faster draft quality printing of the base usually come out to about the same.
Print the base first and you can do everything related to programming an ESP and wiring it up while the face prints, then snap it together and you're done.
The argument for walls on the face is you have less of an overlap at the presented edge, giving you more usable space for the feature. I honestly do a mix of designs:
- walls on the face for most edge-lit boxes
- walls on the face for back-lit boxes
- split designs where the walls are constant and have thin interfaces between them
I actually have really taken a liking to using natural PLA for walls directly on top of features with a split-wall design since it's the best of both worlds, like this more recent one makerworld.com/en/models/889447#profileId-845553 or this one makerworld.com/en/models/788988#profileId-727115
Every time I print a lighbox face there's always some black debris falling on the white parts contaminating it and only visible when lighted
@@triggerre fighting whispies is part of what makes light boxes such a challenge. Printing light to dark, running filament calibrations, and perhaps going low and slow (drop temp and speed) for black goes a long way to helping. Disabling "reduce infill retraction" is a seeing I've started using that is not in my published profiles yet, that seems to help a bit, too.
Have you tried to print big light boxes, which is bigger then print bed? What specifics about designing and printing these things do you know?
@@artemgoncharenko646 when the design allows it, sure. Basically if you have any translucent parts to cut you're going to have an ugly seam. Overlapping material, glue, etc - either light leaks or dark lines.
If the parts of the design have a lot of opaque space you can scale the design so the largest solid part is at your build volume, then assemble it without worrying about the seams being visible.
I've tried a few methods and seen many other folks try - you just won't get an aesthetically clean look if you have to assemble translucent elements from multiple pieces.
As an example, I made one that was just short of 16" wide from multiple pieces. It only worked because the source material had lots of void space in it, so my translucent elements are still single pieces. You can see details on it here - makerworld.com/en/models/481183
Thanks for sharing. 🙂
any idea where the initial layer flow rate setting went to under the advanced tab in the new bambu version
@@rx2006je still where it was, except it's only visible if you turn on developer mode. That option is at the bottom of the preferences window (File > Preferences).
@@RevHazlett got it thanks
OMG! This was AMAZING!!!! 🤯 This helped to explain a lot as to why some of my prints have failed or have looked like crap . My lightboxes are going to go from OK to PERFECT. With this new knowledge, my other prints will also come out better! 😃 Thank you!!!!!
@patrickwilliamson5737 there are several different schools of thought when it comes to how to make these - this is just the how and why of my take on it. Thank you for the kind words, I hope you see improved results!
@@RevHazlett Yep, many ideas out there. Pete does a great job as well and I'v learned a lot from him as well; but I like your method the best.
Good morning. I believe I am using the same settings you are except for my filament which I have tuned. I'm not quite sure what is causing this issue on my bottom surface pattern. Any ideas?
I've added a couple of short videos but for some reason it is not attaching to my question
th-cam.com/users/shortsBusgdluZImA?si=QnveGWHbkyo_y91m
@@michaelb7133 I saw your A1 video - at an outside guess it could be a partial clog or the temp is too low perhaps. You are letting it do the bed leveling procedure when you start a job, yes?
When in doubt, double-check you have the correct material profile to match what you have loaded (eg; you have a PLA spool loaded and a PLA material profile in the slicer) and try the default settings. If that works you can change one setting at a time until it fails to identify the problem. If defaults fail then you probably need to look at a mechanical issue (like a partial clog or extruder failure).
The Bambu wiki has excellent troubleshooting guides!
I have the A1 issue rectified. I posted a new one with a face plate that I printed on an X1 @@RevHazlett
It's in the shorts section